3 Days in Marrakech: Day One

Get started in Marrakech by checking into your riad and exploring the city’s most
central sights, stopping for lunch and mint tea along the way when your feet get tired
or the midday heat gets to be too much if you’re traveling in the warmer months. Try
to get lunch somewhere with a rooftop view over the medina! Finish your evening
with a sunset camel ride for an amazing first day in Marrakech.

Note: Morocco is notorious for scams and nowhere are scams more ubiquitous than
at the airport. One of my top Marrakech tips is that I highly recommend pre-booking
a private transfer from the airport for about $15 USD. It is inexpensive and they will
help you find your riad, which is easier said than done given that Google Maps is
virtually useless in the medinas of Marrakech (following my blue dot led me into a
brick wall so many times that I even wrote a post all about walking in Morocco). Click
to prebook your transfer.
Check into your riad
One of the best things about visiting Marrakech is that the price to quality ratio is in
your favor. A nice but not fancy riad will cost a mere $20 or $25 a night, great for
travelers on a budget (as I was at the time of my visit).

However, if you’re visiting Marrakech with a bit more money to spend, you’ll be
spoiled for choice after beautiful choice. A few of the most Instagram-famous riads
are extremely pricy, such as Riad Yasmine and La Mamounia. However, you really
don’t need to pay that much to have a beautiful stay.
 Typical of a riad in Marrakech
Here are my riad recommendations broken down by budget. For reference, I view
budget as under $50 per night for a private room, mid-range as $50-100 per night,
and luxury as $200+ per night. Prices generally follow these lines but may go up or
down due on time of year, availability, etc.

Budget: Nondescript on the outside, Riad Dar Maria is gorgeous and cozy on the
inside. Updated design makes the indoor courtyard a lovely place to relax, and
comfortable private rooms with AC offer excellent value for the price. The riad is
family-run and treats you like one of their own. Highly recommended by fellow
travelers with a 9.5 average rating on Booking.com. Click here to see lowest prices
and current availability.
Mid-range: The lovely Riad Enchanté lives up to its name – it will truly delight and
enchant you. With stunning tilework, a rooftop terrace (with jacuzzi!), large rooms
with AC, and amazing attention to detail (check out those lovely wooden doors),
you’ll probably never want to leave this homey, delightful riad. Click here to see
lowest prices and current availability.
Luxury: For five-star comfort at not insanely outrageous prices you can’t do much
better than Villa Lavande, a traditional riad with a comfortable in-house hammam, a
gorgeous pool, air conditioning (a must if you travel in summer), and helpful staff.
Cooking lessons are available on-site in case you fancy learning how to make your
own tajine.. or you can simply eat at the in-house restaurant beloved by guests. It’s
located in the medina but away from the hustle and bustle, the best of both
worlds. Click here to see lowest prices and current availability.
Meander over to Koutoubia Mosque
Unfortunately, unlike in other Muslim-majority countries I’ve been to like Turkey,
Bosnia, Azerbaijan, Albania, and Kosovo, non-Muslims are not permitted to enter
mosques in Morocco. And honestly, given the way that Instagram has kind of ruined
Morocco, I don’t really blame them for excluding non-Muslims from the mosques.
However, that doesn’t mean you can’t admire the gorgeous mosque from the
outside.

Built at the height of the Islamic Golden Age, the wonderfully ornate Koutoubia
Mosque is an architectural achievement, especially considering its age (nearly a
millennium old). Originally, there was a different mosque in its place that preceded
the current one, but it was leveled because it was found that it wasn’t properly
aligned with Mecca.

The tallest structure in Marrakech

After Koutoubia Mosque was built, hundreds of booksellers gathered around its base
– giving the mosque its name as “koutoubia” means booksellers in Arabic. The
height of the minaret, 69 meters high, is quite an achievement as well, making it the
tallest building in Marrakech. Due to an ancient law that nothing can be taller than a
palm tree, the Koutoubia mosque continues to stick out as an exception to the rule,
an important monument, and a much-needed point of reference in the winding
alleyways of the medina.

Gawk in awe (and distaste) at Jemaa el-Fnaa

Jemaa el-Fnaa is where you’ll find the best and worst of Marrakech. It’s a must-visit
as its been hailed as a Masterpiece of World Heritage by UNESCO since 2001, and
the folks at UNESCO are rarely wrong. You’ll find the freshest, most delicious orange
juice at a mere 50 cents (5 dirhams) a cup, the lively sizzle of grilling meat… and
you’ll also find snake charmers who have abusively de-fanged their cobras, monkeys
who have been snatched from the wild in order to pay tricks, and ladies grabbing
your hand to try to give you a henna tattoo at an exorbitant price.

To save yourself a headache, do not take any photos of the snake charmers, henna
ladies, etc. and do not allow anyone to hand you their monkey or put any henna on
you as you undoubtedly will be hounded to pay. Just ignore or say no to people and
move on (welcome to Morocco).

I don’t mean to dissuade you from visiting Jemaa el-Fnaa; I just want you to know
what to expect. It’s the center of the medina, so it really is the perfect place to start
exploring the wonderful yet utterly chaotic city that is Marrakech. Its many food stalls
and grills constantly operate and offer freshly grilled kebabs – follow my rule of
thumb to look for locals queuing up, as I’ve always found that the best food to be had
is right where you can see the locals eating.

On the busy streets leading up to Jemaa el-Fnaa, you can find horse-drawn

carriages who are happy to take you around for a short ride around Marrakech. Be
sure to bargain to get a fair price as they will certainly inflate the rates. While I don’t
suggest shopping in Jemaa el-Fna proper, and saving your shopping for the souks
just beyond it, you can’t deny the chaotic main square has an ambiance like no
other. While this time, you’ll visit by day, I highly recommend also coming back at
night to see the square in an entirely new light.
 Jemaa el Fnaa at night
Shop in the souks
Let’s be real: if you didn’t come to Morocco to shop (or stunt for the ‘gram) why did
you even come at all? I had mixed feelings about my 3 days in Marrakech but there
is one thing I cannot deny: the shopping is unreal. Unfortunately I visited Morocco
when I was still a digital nomad and had no proper home so I wasn’t able to buy
much. However, if you’re visiting Marrakech and then returning home after…
seriously, bring a spare suitcase because the shopping here is amazing.

So, what exactly are the souks? Put simply, souks are North African marketplaces
and bazaars that sell a variety of good. In the case of Marrakech, the souks are
entire streets built like mazes that stretch in every direction and are filled with shops
of all types and sizes, primarily selling leather accessories, clothing, jewelry, and
home decor goods. Due to the nature of the souks, prices vary wildly and you are
expected to haggle (you’ll be considered a fool if you don’t). Luckily, no matter where
you shop, generally the goods are at least of decent quality and they are often
handmade in nearby factories and shops rather than being sent in from China as in
much of the world.
 Traditional Moroccan lamps are gorgeous!
 

…but personally, I’m obsessed with Moroccan plates

Be aware that accepting tea in a shop will likely embolden the vendor to demand you
make a purchase (unlike the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul where accepting a cup of tea
is much less fraught). Always remember that you are under no obligation to pay for
an item if you do not like the price, and feel free to walk away. In fact, walking away
will often get you the best price you can get. Don’t show too much enthusiasm (but
don’t be rude) and mention that you are shopping around if you want to get the best
price. All vendors speak English as well as a variety of other languages very fluently
so language barriers, for better or worse, are not an excuse to not buy!

A few things I recommend buying, if you’re interested: leather bags, leather shoes,
leather poofs (they come un-filled so they are easy to transport), plates, bowls,
tajines, and lamps. The clothing is rather gimmicky so it’s not my style. If you’re a
frequent traveler like I am with little space in your bag, I’d settle on just spices and
the delicious, delicious olives that can be had for about two dollars per kilo.

Olives are always a good idea.

End the day with a sunset camel ride
The ethics of using animals in tourism is something that concerns me a lot. It’s
complicated: riding elephants is never okay (mostly due to the horrors they endure to
become domesticated enough to tolerate a human on its back) yet riding horses is
fine. So where exactly does riding a camel fall into that?

I rode camels through the Sahara Desert in 2016 and loved my experience without
really thinking much of it. However, writing this in 2018, the landscape of ethical
animal tourism has changed and thankfully we are paying much more attention to
animal welfare these days. Before I could recommend whether or not you should do
a camel ride, I looked into it and did some research.
This article by Bemused Backpacker has an excellent breakdown of the ethics of
camel ridingand comes to a similar conclusion as riding horses: they require
adequate food, water, shelter, access to medical care when necessary, and freedom
from abuse or overwork. If an operator can provide all that, there is nothing unethical
about riding camels (this article also has great insight into camel riding in Morocco
specifically, and mentions an important note that you should always pay a fair price
for your camel ride as not paying enough may lead to camels not being fed or cared
for properly).

Look for happy faces like this guy’s

I did some research into reputable companies and while I can’t find any sort of
animal welfare certification system in Morocco, this sunset camel tour has excellent
ratings with several reviewers remarking that the camels seemed well-looked after,
and the price is fair enough to ensure the animal welfare without being outrageous
for the consumer. Check availability, ratings, and price here. And if you use them,
please comment back with your feedback!
Please be aware that with 3 days in Marrakech, you can’t actually get out to the
proper dunes (those are about a two days’ drive west to the Sahara) but rather the
Palm Grove, which is an oasis outside of Marrakech. If you do have enough time for
a Sahara desert tour because you’re planning to continue your trip beyond
Marrakech, please read my review of my Sahara desert touras I had a really
unpleasant experience with my guides I don’t want anyone to experience.
3 Days in Marrakech: Day Two
Normally, I would recommend you start with the Ben Youssef Madrassa, which is
utterly beautiful and I’m sure you’ve seen it plastered over Instagram for years now.
The tilework is simply out of this world. Since mosques are closed to non-Muslims,
madrassas (Islamic schools) and palaces are the only places you can really see
Islamic tilework. Unfortunately, the Ben Youssef Madrassa is closed from now (2018)
until at least 2020 to be renovated and preserved for future generations of travelers
to enjoy.

So, while I loved visiting Ben Youssef when I visited Marrakech in 2016, here’s what
I’d recommend instead. Don’t worry – you’ll still find plenty of gorgeous tilework to
suit your fancy (and get your beloved Instagram shots). Start with a few of the most
ornate relics of Marrakech’s historic legacy, like the Badi Palace and the Bahia
Palace, check out the old Jewish cemetary, and pay your respects at the Saadian
tombs.

Gorgeous, but closed for repair work 

El Badi Palace (Palais Badii)
I didn’t personally visit when I went to Morocco but I was looking for a suitable
replacement for Ben Youssef Madrassa and I think this comes close to the mix of
history and photographability that Ben Youssef offers.

El Badi Palace literally translates to “the incomparable palace.” Perhaps that was
true at the time, but a lot has happened in the nearly five centuries since its
construction. It’s a bit worse for wear, but at the same time, you can see spots of the
former beauty of this ruined palace. It took 15 years to build, demonstrating the best
craftsmanship of the Saadian era. At the height of its grandeur, the palace had 360
rooms, decorated to the nines with handcrafted furniture, as well as a courtyard
complex with a pool. Rich with gold, onyx, Italian marble, and exquisite tilework, the
Palace was an ostentatious display of the Saadians wealth.
 The ruins of El Badi, which are still lovely in spots on the inside
While much of the original palace is in a state of disrepair, there are still several
gorgeously preserved parts of the palace with excellent tile mosaics, ornate stained
glass windows, and beautiful courtyards – so there is still plenty to photograph and
visit, all while you imagine the former beauty of it in its heyday.

Marvel at Bahia Palace

Whereas the El Badi Palace is a bit worse for wear after centuries of disuse, Bahia
Palace is in remarkable condition. Built in the second half of the 19th century, Bahia
Palace is arguably the most well-preserved historic monument in Marrakech, and its
simple color scheme of white, wood and understated tilework is gorgeous.
 The stunning Bahia Palace
It’s a glorious palace, one that was built over the course of 14 years, across an area
of two acres, sporting around 150 rooms. To say that it’s beautiful would be doing it
an injustice: it’s mindblowing. Its many ornaments, lavishly-decorated doors,
breathtaking fireplaces, floors and ceilings of the finest wood: every single detail
adds up together to achieve something that is truly spectacular. Visiting Bahia
Palace is an unforgettable experience for any visitor and a must-do whether you
have 24 hours or three days in Marrakech.

Visit the Jewish Cemetery

While today, Morocco is synonymous with its majority Muslim population, it has
historically been an important site for Jews for centuries. You can see that history at
the Jewish Cemetary nearby Bahia Palace, but its simplicity and bareness will be
quite a contrast to the ornateness of Bahia Palace.

The Jewish Cemetary in Marrakech is the largest of its kind in Morocco and has
been in continual use since the 16th century. Today, the Jewish population of
Marrakech is quite small – a mere 200 or so Jews – as much of Morocco’s Jewish
population moved after the founding of Israel. In fact, Moroccan Jews make up the
second largest Jewish community, numbering about 500,000 in a country of around
9 million.
 The Jewish cemetery in central Marrakech
Despite the mass exodus of Moroccan Jews since the founding of Israel, the area
around Marrakech is still important to Jewish history, with several important Jewish
pilgrimage sites located in the outskirts. While Morocco’s population is 99% Muslim,
the country has done an excellent job of protecting its Jewish citizens and Jewish
history.

After the Jews were expelled from Spain, many Sephardic Jews fled to nearby
Morocco by crossing the straight of Gibraltar, and subsequently they became
integrated into Moroccan society. During World War II, King Mohammed V protected
the Moroccan Jews from being shipped to Europe to be exterminated in the
Holocaust, defying Hitler’s orders by saying “in Morocco we don’t have Jews, we
only have Moroccan citizens.”

This is emblematic of the religious tolerance that Morocco has exhibited for
centuries, proudly 99% Muslim yet allowing Christian, Jewish, and to a lesser extent
Baha’i communities to maintain places of worship.

Explore the Saadian Tombs

The Saadian dynasty was an important part of Moroccan history, when Morocco
flourished and grew as an important power: hence, their presence in much of the
architecture and monuments of modern-day Marrakech. The tombs of the Saadian
dynasty, built by Sultan Al Mansour in the 16 th century, contain marvelous tombs and
mausoleums built to commemorate his family.
His successors have since walled off the Saadian Tombs, but they’re still accessible
by a small passage through the Kasbah mosque. The Sultan’s own tomb is quite
intricate and ornate, and it’s surrounded by the tombs of his favorite counselors and
princes. Still, even the Sultan’s resting grounds is shadowed by his mother’s
mausoleum. It’s a resting place made for maximum splendor, truly fit for a queen,
with many plaques and carvings offering poetic blessings.

Photo credit: Luc Viatour, CC-BY-SA-3.0 license, via Wikimedia Commons

3 Days in Marrakech: Day Three
Make the most of your last day in Marrakech by indulging in a bucket-list must,
whether it’s a sunrise hot air balloon ride or a spa day at one of Morocco’s many
hammams – or both! Do some last minute sightseeing in the Jardin Majorelle, and
then finish up with some souvenir shopping for things you missed — you don’t want
to have buyers’ remorse after you leave Morocco, after all.

Wake up early for a hot air balloon ride over the desert
If you have the time and the funds for a hot air balloon ride in Morocco, I think it’s the
best way to cap off three days in Marrakech. I wasn’t able to afford it when I visited
Morocco two years ago, fresh off of quitting my job to start this blog, but I rode a hot
air balloon in Cappadocia in Turkey and just. wow. It’s one of the most magical
experiences I can remember.
 Worth the alarm at an ungodly hour
As when I went with Voyager Balloons in Cappadocia, it’s always crucial to pick a
reputable hot air balloon company with pilots with thousands of hours of flight time
under their belt. Ciel d’Africa is the top-rated balloon operator in Morocco, so they’re
who I would choose if I went. They offer a combined tour of a sunrise hot air balloon
plus camel ride in case you didn’t get a chance to do a camel ride earlier. Check out
ratings, reviews, and availability here.
The wake up call is excruciatingly early – before 5 AM – so you’ll want to take it easy
the rest of the day if you opt for a balloon ride.

Relax in Jardin Majorelle

After a hot air balloon ride, you’ll probably be a bit beat from the early morning wake-
up and excitement. And what better way to relax than in one of Marrakech’s most
gorgeous gardens?

Amidst all the hustle and bustle of the busy streets of Marrakech lies the gorgeous
Jardin Majorelle. It’s a quiet and calm reprieve that’s surrounded by a chaotic and
active lifestyle, so this garden is truly an oasis in the desert. It was originally created
by Art Deco painter Jacques Majorelle – who ended being more known for the
garden rather than his paintings – around 1920, and it was later bought and
renovated by fashion designer Yves St. Laurent.
 Majorelle blue
 

Full of cacti and flowers

While the garden itself is lovely, with cacti and gorgeous blossoming flowers, it’s
most famous for the hue of its walls, an intensely vibrant cobalt blue that’s now
called Majorelle blue. Today, Jardin Majorelle open every day of the year, and it’s
remained a visitor favorite for quite a long time. It’s one of those places where you
can sit back, relax, and just enjoy the scenery.

Enjoy a traditional hammam

Hammams are common throughout North Africa and the Middle East, a tradition
dating back from when private bathrooms with running water weren’t that common.
Over the years, hammams became more about relaxation and socializing than
getting clean.

You can’t miss trying a traditional scrub in Morocco – you’ll literally feel brand new
after, as they’ll slough off roughly half a human’s worth of a dead skin. There are
several kinds of hammam experiences you can have, from ultra local to ultra
luxurious. I recommend going somewhere in the middle. My friend I was with in
Morocco went to the spa at Riad Laârouss and found it to be a great experience, as
they gave her tea when she got in and explained the whole procedure to her. I went
to some random hole-in-the-wall because I was trying to save money and stumbled
(naked, I should add) through the whole experience with my very rudimentary
French.

The way a Moroccan scrub works is that first they use a eucalyptus-scented black
soap, applying it to your whole body while you are fully nude. Don’t worry, if you’re a
woman, you’ll have a female attendant, and vice versa if you’re a man. After they’ll
apply argan oil and then scrub – hard – using a rough glove to exfoliate off the dead
skin. You can just get a steam and scrub or finish up with a lovely massage
afterwards. I recommend booking with a riad that caters to English-speaking clientele
and allows you to pre-book online to avoid communication issues as I had. Book
online here and get up to 20% off scrubs, massages, or both.
Did I leave anything out? What else would you recommend to see in
Marrakech in 3 days?

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