Maintenance for busbar

identify loose connections.

Identify components running hot or not.

Identify unusual smell or dust.

Check all emergency lighting and power indicator display.

Switch

A switch is an electrical component that can "make" or "break" an electrical circuit.

An ideal switch would have no voltage drop when closed, and would have no limits on voltage or current
rating.

Testing of dc machine

Open circuit test

Short circuit test

Load test

Determination of efficiency
Transformers test

a) Measurement of winding

resistance IS 2026 (Part 1).

b) Measurement of voltage ratio

and check of phase

displacement IS 2026 (Part 1).

c) Measurement of short-circuit

impedance (principal tapping,

when applicable) and load

loss at 50 percent and 100

percent load IS 2026 (Part 1).

d) Measurement of no-load loss

and current IS 2026 (Part 1).

e) Measurement of insulation

resistance IS 2026 (Part 1).

f) Induced over-voltage

withstand test IS 2026 (Part

3).

g) Separate-source voltage

withstand test IS 2026 (Part

3).

h) Pressure Test

i) Oil Leakage Test

MAINTENANCE OF FUSES

Preventive maintenance of fuses consists of checking for the following conditions and correcting
anydiscrepancies.1. IMPROPER FUSE. Check the fuse installed against that recommended in the
technical manualfor the equipment. If an incorrect fuse is installed, replace it with the correct fuse.2.
CORROSION. Check for corrosion on the fuseholder terminals or the fuse itself. If corrosion ispresent,
remove it with fine sandpaper.3. IMPROPER FIT. Check for contact between the fuse and fuseholder. If
a piece of paper will fitbetween the fuse and the clips on a clip-type fuseholder, there is improper
contact. If the fuse isnot held in the cap of a plug-type fuseholder, the contacts are too loose.4. OPEN
FUSES. Check fuses for opens. If any fuse is open, repair the trouble that caused the openfuse and
replace the fuse

How to Test a High-pressure Sodium Ballast

What You'll Need

A high-pressure sodium ballast is responsible for regulating the pressure in light fixtures that use high-
pressure sodium gas to produce the light. These types of lights are commonly found outside. They are
used for things such as security lighting. They are also commonly found in an indoor garden setting.
These types of lights efficiently produce a very intense light. There is very little energy consumption.
Here is a quick guide on how to test your high-pressure sodium ballast to make sure it is properly and
efficiently igniting the bulb.

Step 1 - Remove the Lamp

Remove the lamp. Make sure you turn off all power first to safely remove the lamp from the location.

Step 2 - Visually Inspect the Lamp

Visually inspect the lamp for proper connections and contacts. This will eliminate any visual or
connection issues with your high-pressure sodium ballast.

Step 3 - Check Accessories

Ok

Review the accessories on your lamp. Verify proper type and ratings. Pull out your owner's manual to
make sure the accessories are appropriate for your lamp. Generally, you should inspect the choke, the
starter, and the phase correction capacitor.

Step 4 - Test the Voltage

Using your voltmeter, test the voltage. Test the input terminals for each lamp. (Refer to your diagrams.
Often you can find the diagram on the ballast or the underbelly of the lamp. For reference purposes,
transfer the diagram using a pen and piece of paper). Test the ballast input side and then the ballast
lamp side. These types of tests can harm your voltmeter. Make sure you are using the proper high
voltage probe when testing.

Step 5 - Check the Ballast

Remove the starter. Insert a short circuiter into the lamp holder. Now you will need to turn the system
on. Your ballast is working correctly if you do not see any signs of smoke or any humming and buzzing
sounds. You should perform this test for a minimum of one to two minutes.

Step 6 - Check the Short-circuit Current

Pull out the AC ammeter and check the short circuit current of the ballast. During the test, the fuse
should resist the short circuit current. Also check the choke type and rating used. It must be appropriate
for the ballast. If during the test you find the fuse blown, then you know that there is a short in the
ballast
Repair of ceiling fan

Step 1

Check the electrical supply to the fan. Check the circuit breaker or fuse that controls the power to the
ceiling fan. It is possible the breaker tripped and the fan is simply not getting power. If the breaker is
tripped, reset it and monitor the fan for a period of time. If the breaker trips again it is an indication of a
short somewhere in that circuit.

Step 2

Check the electrical power at the wall switch. Remove the face plate from the switch so you can see the
interior of the switch box. Use the circuit tester check that power is getting to the switch and that the
switch is working properly. If the switch is not working, replace it.

Step 3

Remove the housing cover on the ceiling fan to expose the electrical connections. Check all connections
to make certain no wires have come loose and are no longer making contact. Use your circuit tester to
make certain the fan motor is receiving electrical power. If no power is reaching the motor, the problem
is in the wiring between the switch and the fan.

Step 4
Examine the fan's motor shaft. Check that nothing has become entangled or wrapped around the shaft
which is preventing it from turning. Remove any obstacles or foreign objects from the shaft or motor,
and attempt to activate the motor. If there is power to the motor and no obstructions, it is likely the
motor has failed, and you will need to replace it.

What Are the Steps to Fluorescent Lighting Repair?

Replace a fluorescent lighting starter:

Turn off power to the fixture.

Lift the fixture diffuser or cover (if installed) and tubes to access the starter, a round plug-in component
attached near the larger ballast.

Twist out the old starter and replace it with one that has the identical part number and rating.

Replace a fluorescent lighting ballast:

Turn off power to the fixture.

Remove the diffuser, tubes, and cover plate.

Identify the ballast, a large heavy component often near the center of the fixture. Disconnect wires to
the ballast and disconnect the ballast from the fixture. Test with a multimeter.

Replace the ballast with one of the same rating as the old unit. Mount the new ballast and reconnect
wires in the same manner as they were disconnected.

Replace the cover plate, tubes, and diffuser.

Plug in or turn on the circuit to verify that the fixture is working.

Replace a fluorescent lighting socket:

Turn off power to the fixture.

Remove the diffuser, tubes, and cover plate.

Disconnect wires from the socket.

Disconnect and remove the socket.

Replace the socket with a duplicate unit.

Replace the cover plate, tubes, and diffuser.

Plug the light in or turn on the circuit to verify that the fixture is working.

Bulb testing:

If your fluorescent bulb is flickering, switching on and off by itself, or dead altogether, test the bulb first.
Examine both ends of the bulb. If the glass has darkened, the bulb is at or near the end of its life. Also
check for missing or bent electrode pins.The simplest way to test a bulb is to try it out in a fixture that
you know is working properly. If the bulb works, it's the other fixture that has the problem. Or by testing
it with multimeter or continuity tester.

Starter testing:

If a tested bulb still shows a malfunction, the problem may lie with your starter. This is the small box that
is placed on or near the lamp and primes the bulb with a high-voltage charge whenever you turn the
switch on. (If your lamp always flickers a few times before going on, you have a starter system.) Remove
the starter and then return it to its base or socket. If the bulb still malfunctions, your best move at this
point is to replace the starter.

Ballast:

If the good bulb and new or replaced starter still don't work normally, your ballast may be
malfunctioning. Remove the ballast cover with a screwdriver. If oil is leaking, replace the ballast or
fixture.