Figure C

Wall 12" 5/16"

framing 29-11/16"
8"

SIDING
JOINT
11-3/4" 16" 16" 16" 16" 13-1/4"

OFFSET
FLASHING

2x4 BLOCKING
WALL
89"
STUD
95-5/8" SECTION A-A

ALL WALLS SHEATHED WITH

1/2" x 4' x 8' OSB SIDING PANELS

Side Wall Elevation DROP ALL SIDING

PANELS 1/2"
TIGHT DOUBLED 2x6 HEADER

16" 16" 16"

16-1/2"
RADIUS
SINGLE 2x10
HEADERS

42-1/4" 24" 35"

95-5/8"

79"

15-1/4" 16" 16" 16" 16" 15-1/4"

144"
32-3/4"
CUT OUT SHADED SECTION
OF BOTTOM PLATE AFTER
NOTE:
RAISING WALL
2x4 WALL
CONSTRUCTION
THROUGHOUT

1/2" x 7/8" x 35" FILLER PIECE

Front Wall Elevation (USE GREEN STUDS SPACINGS FOR REAR WALL)
 Figure D
Roof framing 12"

8" A

14' 1"

12-1/2" 15-1/4" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 15-1/4" 12-1/2"

1/2"
PLYWOOD
OR OSB
2x4 2x4
OVERHANG RIDGE
RAFTERS
(GREEN)

2x4 2x4
COLLAR COLLAR
TIE TIE

2X4
RAFTERS
(PINK)

B View A ROOF SHEATHING

2x4
FLUSH WITH
SUBFASCIA
OVERHANG RAFTERS
AND SUBFASCIA
Figure D
Roof framing

2x4
SOFFIT
NAILERS

2x4 5/16" x 12" 2x4

RIDGE FIBER SUBFASCIA
CEMENT

Section B-B

33.7°

69-11/16"
69-11/16"
8"

12"

Rafter 4"

2-11/16"

10-7/8"
2x4s
Overhang
Rafter
Cut a pair of rafters using the dimensions shown FRONT OR
here. Tack a short scrap of 2x4 to the angled top REAR WALL
of each rafter to represent the ridge. Then place SIDING
the two rafters on the end wall to test the fit. If the
rafters don’t fit tightly, adjust the fit and cut a new
pair. When you’re satisfied that the rafters fit well,
mark one of them with the word “pattern” and use
it to mark the remaining rafters for cutting.
Figure E FRONT SIDING

Finished shed
1x2 SHINGLE ROOF SOFFIT WALL
MOLDING PLYWOOD NAILER

1-1/2" x 4-1/2"
DOOR TRIM

1x6
FASCIA 1x4
SIDE CORNER
5/16" x 12" WALL WALL BOARDS
FIBER SIDING DOOR
CEMENT
SECTION A-A SECTION B-B SECTION C-C

A
SHOP-MADE
BRACKETS
A (SEE FIGURE F)

1x2 SHINGLE
MOLDING

1x6 C
FASCIA

B B
SHOP-MADE
WINDOWS
(SEE FIGURE F)

SHOP-MADE DOOR 1-1/2" x 4-1/2"

(SEE FIGURE F) DOOR TRIM

Side Elevation Front Elevation

(ROOF FRAMING AND SHINGLES NOT SHOWN)
 Figure F
Shop-made items
31"

3-1/2"

8-3/4"
21.7°

20"
RADIUS 16-1/2"
RADIUS 10º 2" GLAZING POINTS
BEVEL AND CAULK
3/8" x 3/8"
SILL 1-1/2" RABBET
1-1/2"
43-11/16"

1/4" 3/8" x 3/8"

B B SAW PLEXIGLAS RABBET
KERF
SECTION A-A SECTION B-B

1/2" x 3/4"
PARTING FRONT BACK
A STOPS FRAME FRAME

A
Shop-Made Window 1/4"
PLEXIGLAS
1/2" x 1/2"
36" 36" STOP
4-1/2" 3-1/2"
27" 29"
C
4-1/2" 3-1/2"

1/4"
1/2" x 3/4" 1/2" x 1/2"
16" BEADED
PARTING 14-1/2" STOP
PLYWOOD
STOPS
SECTION C-C

4-1/2" 3-1/2"

C
BEVELED 12" 2x4
END

80-1/2" 18"
4x4

49-3/4" 51"

2x6 15-9/16"

45°
2" 2"
8-1/2"
RADIUS

12-3/4"

Shop-Made Bracket
7-1/4" 6-1/2"

FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW

Shop-Made Door
Figure G
WINDOW TOP and BRACKET MARKING JIG

1x2 TRAMMEL PENCIL HOLE

9-1/4"

14-1/4"

20"

16-1/2" 2x10
POSITION

32"
8-1/2"

2x6
POSITION

2x4 NAIL
SPACER PIVOT

3/4" PLYWOOD

31"

Start by cutting a piece of plywood or siding scrap 31 in. wide and about 32 in. long.
Screw a 31-in.-long 2x4 to the plywood, 18-1/4 in. down from the top. Mark the center of
the 2x4. Next make a trammel from a 2-ft.-long 1x2 or other narrow piece of wood.
Make four marks on the 1x2- at 1 in., 9-1/2 in., 17-1/2 in. and 21 in. from the end.
Center the marks on the 1x2. Drill a nail-sized hole at the 1 in. mark and pencil sized
holes at the other three marks. Tack the trammel to the 2x4, aligning the nail with the
center mark.