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DIY CP8 Mod - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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07.5 - 096.7 Liter 07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Performance Parts
Cummins. Discussion
DIY CP3 Mod
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ksseabrd
This is not new information, Relentless Diesel was the first | know of, to post
how to do this, The original "how to” is here.
Relentless Diesel; View topic - DIY CP3 Mods
This original write-up is for the first CR's with CP3's. What | am doing here is
modifying that write-up for us with 6.7's. | am going to use Relentless's write-
up and modify it with my own information and some pictures, so it will be
more inline for our use. Information that I have added will be in Bold. This is
defiantly a worth while mod, it will increase the ability of your CP3 to hold max
pressure with bigger tunes. Please heed any warnings in this post, as if
you don't, you will have problems. And may find yourself buying some new
parts. (FCA's run about $120 from cummins)
Now let's begin. ;) And a big TY! to Relentless Diesel, as this would not have
happened without their information. This should help some of you
understand how to modify your own CP3 injector pump. We'll get into more
detail of CP3's in another article, but for now understand that all you can do is
completely fil the plungers with fuel. The CP3 has three plungers and each
plunger intakes a certain amount of fuel and expels it into the fuel rail with
each injector pump revolution. Each plunger makes the same length
downward and upward stroke on each revolution regardless of how much fuel
is commanded. If the plungers were full of fuel the pump would always move
the same amount of fuel per revolution and we know that's not true. At light
throttle/low power the pump moves very little fuel into the rail. At high power
levels the pump moves all the fuel it can. It's easy to see that the plungers are
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the rail) during high power levels than the stock pump. There are several
restrictions from the time the fuel enters to the CP3 until it gets sucked into
the plunger/barrel chamber. As we eliminate each restriction the plunger
chamber can fill more completely with fuel. This article will cover two simple
modifications that most anyone can do to increase the fuel delivery from their
CP3 pump. Take a look at the picture below. You'll notice two easily
removable pieces bolted to the back of the CP3. The FCA and the High
Pressure fitting that the HP fuel line connects to.
At the bottom of the picture you'll see the fuel control actuator (FCA) which
has the black colored electrical connector attached to it. Also you will see
the HP fitting that the fuel line running to the rail is attached to, First
remove the FCA, leave the HP fitting in place for now. The FCA will look
like this, Take note on how deep that silver cap with the hole is set into
the FCA, it will need to go back in to about the same depth.
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screw, thread the first thread or 2 into the hole in the end of the FCA,
just to the point where the screw has a grip on the cap in the end of the
FCA, Take the head of the screw and clap it in a vice and LIGHTLY tap
on the FCA away from the vice to remove the end cap. It is a very snug
fit, The original article says to pry it out, | found this very difficult and
was worried about damaging the end cap. | found this method with the
screw and vice to be much easier and less harsh on the FCA. (Works
like a puller)
DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY.
Use the “screw in vice” method like this,
Carefully remove the spring and lightly tap the fea on the table to help slide
the metering valve out. (Use extreme caution when handling the metering
valve. If it is bent or even scratched it can stick will be useless.) | was not
able to tap the metering valve out, it is to tight of a fit. | use a small pic
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into one of the holes, pull firmly, but gently, until the metering valve
comes out. The valve is made of soft steel and will crush or deform
fairly easily, treat it gently.
Once alll is out you will have this.
Use a Pic like this to help get the valve out. Look for the two small holes
at the bottom of the valve
All the fuel that is allowed to enter the plungers must first make it through
these two tiny triangular holes in this valve
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Each triangle is 0.110" high, and 0.068" wide, for a total area of 0.00748
square inches between the two. This is equivalent to a single hole with a
diameter of 0.097", By enlarging these triangles more fuel will be able to get
to the plungers. This is the smallest restriction from the inlet of the CP3 all the
way into the plunger chamber. We've tried various shapes which allow more
or less flow at each duty cycle (position) of the valve and the one that works
the best also happens to be the easiest to machine. A simple dremel tool cut-
off wheel can be used to perform a simple slice into the triangle. **It is
extremely important that you do not modify the tip of the triangle. The tip is
crucial to the valves ability to stop and regulate fuel at small flowrates (idling,
cruising, etc.)**
Use some gloves or something soft for protection. | don't want to hear
complaints that you cut your finger. Don't chuck it up in a vice because you'll
damage the valve. BE CAREFUL!!! OK, you can put it into a vice, which
makes for a much easier and better job cutting the notches, BUT you do
need to do it carefully!!! | used rubber jaws in my vice, and | clamped
the valve into the vice perpendicular to the jaws, so not the crush the
round portion of the vaive. Also clamp it VERY lightly, just tight enough
to hold it for the dremel. (Which is not very tight) If you find this to risky,
then just hold it with your fingers. But both ways have a measure of
risk.
Here's an example of a cut valve.
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You'll need to spend a LOT of time polishing the cut edges both inside and
outside with some very fine sand paper. (I used 2500 grit) The valve will
need to freely slide in and out of the housing without force. If you get in a
hurry and force a valve into the housing with a burr of any kind it will scratch
the housing and be JUNK. Throw it away and start over. (AKA, go buy a
new FCA.) The valve will actually go back into the FCA rather hard (just
like when it came out) but when it is in it’s working position it will slide
back and forth (about %”) smooth as silk. If it does not, then you need
to smooth it out some more, You may also need to smooth the inside of
the FCA channel as well. This is not an area where you want to leave
any rough edges. THIS CAN NOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH, NO BURRS
OR ROUGH EDGES OF ANY KIND!
Now take a look at the spring and end cap that you pried out. Remember they
stack like this:
You can enlarge the center hole in the end cap, but there's really no use
going bigger than 0.130" since that is the .D. of the spring. Fuel has to travel
down the center of the spring on its way out of the FCA. Again, I cannot
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directly into the pump plungers and then into your $350 a piece injectors.
Insert the valve, spring and press the end cap back into place and you're
finished modifying your FCA. The end cap goes back in so that it is just
below the end of the FCA, just enough you can feel a slight
For those of you that want to understand the FCA a little better before
modifying it, we have included some cross sectional views to simplify it. Here
is the housing cut open.
Here is a closer view. Look at the first darkened region (left to right). You'll
notice two holes. There are four holes total and this is where the fuel enters
this valve.
Here is a picture with the valve in place positioned to delver NO FUEL!
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Here is a picture with the valve in place to deliver FULL FUEL FLOW!
This final picture shows all three parts in place!
If you are thinking that the inlet holes are a restriction, they are not, as
there are four of them, and the four of them equal more area than the
two triangles, even after the notches are cut.
Now on to the High Pressure output fitting in the CP3.
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There is a check ball that might remain inside the CP3 after you remove
the fitting. (at the end of the spring) You need to take it out, and set it
aside for re-install later. It is dark in color and NOT magnetic.
Once you have the HP fitting out there are two holes you are going to
en-large. One hole is inline with the fitting, and one hole is
perpendicular to the fitting. Enlarge this hole to .125 or 1/8 inch
Enlarge this hole to .140 or 9/64 inch, push all the way through to the
other hole.
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You could make these holes larger, but this was as big as I felt
comfortable with, and still maintain the integrity of the fitting. Also you
have to consider that these holes will still be larger than the smallest
hole in the system, so they should not need to be much bigger. After
you have enlarged the holes, put a very small dab of grease on the end
of the spring and stick the check ball onto it, then carefully reinsert the
valve back into the CP3. You must make sure that the ball goes all the
way in with the spring on top of it. If you bind up or the ball falls off,
stop and try again. (took me three tries.) I recommend a towel under the
truck to catch the ball if you drop it, also it helps if you use a small
mirror to help you guide the HP fitting, with the ball, into the hole. Make
sure all of this is very clean when reassembling. DO NOT CRANK THE
TRUCK IF THIS CHECK BALL IS NOT IN PLACE.
Once all is back in place | recommend that you attach a piece of tubing
or hose to the HP fitting and let it run into a bucket. Then get in the
truck and crank the motor for 5-10 seconds. This will prime the CP3 and
it will push a cup or so of fuel out into the bucket. This is a good way to
clean out anything that is in the pump, (debris) and keep it out of your
injectors. Hook the HP fuel line back up and start her up.
--- You will notice that | did not include the section about
modifying the external pump on the CP3, even though it was done in the
original Relentless article. | actually did take apart the external pump on
my CP3, here is the picture from it.
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bigger than was recommended in the relentless article, So I put mine
back together and left it be. | am quite certain there are mods that could
be done to that pump, but | doubt they are DIY at home type. This has
been one of the most beneficial mods I have done to my truck in the
performance area. Before doing this I would have surging issues using
the 175hp tune, as the injectors would tend to drain the rail, and | would
often drop to 20-22K psi. With this DIY CP3 mod, | now see 26K or more
and it will hold for a MUCH longer time, and the surging is all but gone.
If you have the time, about 2 hours, and patience, this is an excellent
mod to do. Just take your time, heed the warnings, and work clean.
Enjoy.
aria
CO6.7Cummins
Great info!
tr
awesome! thanks a ton!
a Isucowboy
Cool article.
Ki Shibbyutman
If you guys have access to a drill press | suggest doing it this way instead.
With the dremel it is too easy to go too far. no to mention if you do slip once
it's game over. Here with a small spotting drill and small carbide dremel burr |
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out with the grinding wheel :partyO1
6
2500MegaDiesel
Subscribed
e
Very good info.
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Sugarbear1
Well | just found what im doin this weekend! !:truck: Shibby | really like the
idea to drill more holes over grinding!
3
what ever way you end up doing it, remember you need to deburr and polish
inside and out to make sure there is nothing that is going to end up in the
high pressure pistons or injectors.
Ps MattTse
Shinby, what size drill bit did u use to drill out the holes?,
having a stock truck, would thus mod be worth while doing now, or wait till the
truck is modded
Fy ovo
Itwas between a #55 and #60 I can't remember exactly which one but
anything in that size will get you in the neighborhood, itis just the placement
along axially that needs to be paid attention to, You want the center of your
bolt pattern to be the radius of the drill bit above the bottom of the triangle
Also, DON'T clamp it in a vice to try and hold it. When | did mine | used an
indexing collet vice so I held it to 45 degree intervals away from the triangles.
As far as the "should | do this or not???" let your rail pressure numbers tell
you. If you don't know what your rail pressure is doing then get a gauge
before you try this to verify that it is even the problem. If you're rail pressure
numbers are falling as you increase load/RPM then yes get it done, otherwise
look elsewhere.
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ksseabrd
agree with Kurt, let your rail pressure be your referance. This is not a MPG
mod, this is a mod for WOT, and high performance.
I want to thank Kurt for the additional method of drilling holes. | think both
ways have their risk and advantages. If you choose to drill, you really need to.
have a dill press and an indexing vice that can hold the valve with out
damaging it. Also when drilling the holes you will need to make sure of their
placment, they need to be inline with the bottom of the triangle all the way
around. If you don't have a drill press with the correct holding device, |
personaly would go with the dremel method. Just keep in mind that the metal
that the valve is made of is fairly soft and easy to grind away, so with the
deremel it does not take much pressure or time to grind the slot. Just a
couple of seconds for each slot. Also be sure to not get into the tip of the
triangle. Start with the dremel wheel at the base of the triangle and grind
straight down in one single cut. (assuming you are using the grinding wheels
that are about 1/16" thick) And as Kurt mentioned sand and deburr, no matter
which method you use. ‘thumbsup’
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