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The end goal? To expose
ADV E R T I S E M E Nthe
T fresh skin cells underneath and reveal
clearer, younger-looking skin.
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2/4/2020 How to Tell If Your Skin Is Purging or Breaking Out
Before these new, healthy cells can cycle to the surface, some other stuff
has to rise to the top first, like the excess sebum, flakes, and buildup that
clog pores (aka, all the makings of a pimple or two… or 10). This is what’s
not so glamorously known as “skin purging.”
“As the surface layer of skin is shed more quickly, our skin is expediting
its recovery and pushing everything to the surface,” Mraz Robinson says.
She notes a purge period can prompt allkinds of pimples. “It may look
different from person to person, but you can get a mix of whiteheads,
blackheads, papules, pustules, cysts, and even the tiny ‘pre-pimples’ that
aren’t visible to the eye, called microcomedones.”
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“The most common offenders are retinoids,” Mraz Robinson says. The
retinoid family includes everything from retinol (a common prescription for
acne-prone and aging skin, which can also be found in over-the-counter
products) to topical tretinoin and the oral medication isotretinoin (both of
which are prescription only).
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You may experience skin purging from exfoliating acids, too.
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“Certain facials that involve a chemical peel component may also trigger
this reaction,” Mraz Robinson says, “because again, it’s all about a
reaction in response to an accelerated exfoliation.”
“If it’s an Rx retinoid from your doctor, they gave it to you for a reason,”
Mraz Robinson says. “Stick through this ‘it gets worse before it gets
better’ phase.”
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First of all, irritation from a new product that’s not from retinoids, acids, or
peels is likely a case of an allergic reaction or sensitivity.
“If you’re seeing breakouts [or dryness] in an area of your face where you
don’t normally break out, it’s probably a response to a new product you’re
using,” Mraz Robinson says.
In these cases, it’s best to discontinue use of the new product ASAP —
because, clearly, your skin isn’t into it.
There’s one good thing about purge pimples, though: “Pimples that arise
from purging will appear and disappear faster than a ‘normal’ pimple,”
Mraz Robinson says.
Everyone’s skin is unique, so that time frame can differ from person to
person. Generally speaking, dermatologists say purging should be over
within four to six weeks of starting a new skin care regimen.
If your purge lasts longer than six weeks, consult your dermatologist. It
could be that you need to adjust the dosage and/or frequency of
application.
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You can’t speed the purge, but you can help make
it tolerable
Four to six weeks may sound like a long time to wait for the skin of your
dreams. Alas, there’s not a whole lot you can do to change that timeline.
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Mraz Robinson’s best advice? “Don’t pick at the acne,” she says. That will
only extend the purge period and may even lead to permanent scarring.
“Don’t use products that will excessively dry it out, either,” she adds.
Since many spot treatments are actually exfoliating agents (like salicylic
acid and benzoyl peroxide), keep them faraway from purging skin. It’s
already in the midst of cell turnover. Any extra stimulation in this
department will probably only make things worse.
“For example, during the first week, apply the retinoid two times a week,”
Mraz Robinson says. “Then for week two, apply it three times that week,
working your way up to daily use.” This, she says, will allow the skin to
gradually adjust to the ingredient.
You can follow the same pattern with exfoliating acids; just be sure to
start with once-weekly application, and don’t exceed two to three times
per week at the most. (Any more than that could lead to over-exfoliating.)
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Who knew that clear, youthful skin was waiting just beneath the surface
that whole time? (Oh yeah… dermatologists.)
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