i ‘TUE CHILDS CAMPERS MODEL PISTOL 1‘ CALIBER 22 SHORT PLANS SPECIFICATIONS INSTRUCTIONS Entire Phamphlet Copyrighted 1960 by E. H. Childs Before starting ycur gun, study the Instructions and plans yntil you dave cleaely in mind what each pert looks like and ils function in the finished gun, There are no measurements on the drawings fas each part is fitted to the parts It works with as the gun ts co atrocted. This is what Is meant when it is said that high priced Buns are hand fitted. They are made Just as your gun willbe made, ‘The drawings are all actual size and are to be used as patterns for the different paria of the pistol. Make card-board patterns of esch part, then use these patterns then shaping the metal parts, ‘Keep Yong pian ahect in gand shape te chick by. ‘as You get # part out, lay It on the pian sheet to check its shape, bul do not fle the parts too clare, uni have them ail done, and start assem- bling your gun. An extractor has been left off this pistol in order to keep the design simple for amateur workmen, and to guarantee years of trouble free service. A short round wooden stick, auch as & candy fucker atic, makes a good tool with which to puih out the SEPLY cartridge cise. Do fot use « metal rod or you wil quickly 7 ‘There are no special tools needed to bu'ld this gun, but If you cen have the holes drilled with/a drill press they will be more accurate. ‘The quarter inch tron parts of the gun can be ordinary cold rolled steel, The bumper braces én Junk autos are gocd metal and are generally the right thicknsss. The hacksaw, Mle and drill are your ‘main tools, and if they axeebacp & wil make your work ensier and the Job better. Work slowly and worry about zach step as you are ready to do It, and you will have your gun finished in’a very short Hse. The model pital made when working out these plans’ end instructions has been tharouzhly tested and is completely sate when chambered for the 22 short cartridge, but the Designer does ot assume any responsibility for m'shaps caused by careless work- manship the use of inferiot materia, or the changing of the design of the pi ‘Thess plans and instructions or any part theresf cennot be copled. by anyone without the written consent of the Designer. STEP 1 BARREL Fig 1: The barrel can be any diameter and Jength. The one used on the model pistol is fve-eighths of an inch in diameter at the breech end and » little smaller at the murs, It is four inches long, but you can make yours lonrer If you Uke, File both ends of the barrel aquare and finish with fine emery cloth #0 ‘that you will leave no burr sticking out in the bore. 2. BARREL LUG—Fig. 1 & 6: The barrel lug is sawed and filed from one-quarter inch steel. Use cold rolled flat bar stock, the bumper brace off a wrecked auto, or one-qvarter Inch material from sid farm Implements, When ysu have lt fled out, put It In the ‘vise with the barrel edge up, and with a email reund oF half rornd le, hollow out the top edge so that the barrel will nt on ft. Drill no holes now. Get the groove true 40 the luz end the barrel point in the same direction when they are fit together, STEP 3. BARREL LUG SCREW—Fig. 1: This screw can be one- elghth inch or five thirty-teconds ofan inch In diameter with a round head with a screw driver slot and square nut, Drill the hole for the luz scr-w through the barrel lug and mark on the batrel where it hits, File the bevel on two sides of the nut and fle the dovetail notch tn the barrel, drive the nut In the barrel noteh and serew the barrel lug to the barrel. If the beck of the barrel lug does ot come flush with the breech of the barrel, le them until they ate flush, one with the other. File the aides of the screw head fush ‘with the’ sides of the barrel lug, STEP 4. FRAME PLATES Fig. 1 & 3: These are made of sixteen gauge shect iron—not galvanized, Sixteen gauge ron le about one sixteenth of an inch thick, and should be found In a welding, tin, ‘or auio body shop. You can use a little thicker material than’ sit- Neen gauge but not thinner. Hold two pleces In the vise together and shape them at the same time. If Your barrel is larger than five-eighths of an inch, the part of the frame plates that go UD “bebund the barrel must’ be high enough to go to the tap of the Darrel. Leave plenty of metal. It ean be fled off later. ‘SIEP 5. PINS AND RIVETS: If you can get a few inches of one- eighin inch drill rod you are all set for rivets and sins, proval you have a one-eignth drill. It you cannot get drill rod, then, ‘s1zht penny nall dressed dowa a litte will goin a hole drilled by a “umber thirty drill, or a seven penny nail Ots the hole drilled oy ss number thirty. thiee dril. Use iron rivets ang pins any size that you have a drill for, that is near one-eighth Inch. The rivets should ‘about one thirty-second of an inch long on each aide to rivet Lp 6, PIN AND RIVET HOLES_—Fig. 3: When you have the two frame pistes shaped out clove to thelr finished ste, center punch fand deli all the holes in the right frame plate only’ Dril the butt Hock screw hole the same size as the rivet and pi holes, Do not Gull the et frame plate yet, TE 7, LUTE PULSER 1 de 4: This can be made of one-vuarer inch steel, cast Iron, or brass, but the brass. and east fron will not blue, Waen you have the filler block roughed oul, ex cepling the notch for the barimer spring, lay the right frame Plate ‘on it and drill the stock pin hole, the siock screw hole, and the tomer spring. pin hole ih te Aller Slack Next aril te hammer apraig pin bole out of the filler block with a Ave-siateenths OF Uhreerefiuis Inch ‘ar ‘and waw out the noth Tor the hammer tpuinrs ETeP @. RIVETING THE FRAME—Mig. 1: Lay the right and lft trame plats together and drill the stock serew hole and he stock in bole throuvh the left frame plate, then put the filer block be- iveen tke frame plates and put a pit in the stock screw hole and the stock pin ole ts keep the three pieces lined up while you dei the five eles for the rivets that hold the frame plates and Aller block together. Cut five rivets and rivet the three pleses together, Keep the pleces Uipht tovether while riveting. Now take the pins out ef the sirck serpw bile tnd the stock pin hole, and fle the edges of the three pieces so they arz flush with each other around the grip. ‘STE? 9, BREECH BLOCK Fig. 1 & 0: This is cut from the same one-cuarier inch steel a the barrel Ing. Tt 1s one-taif Inch wide. Lethe sour that makes the fear sight silck up higher than neces try cam bevhied down when sighting tx Jour pistol, Del the ower rivet hole and ihe tere spring hole pit nol the Seine pig ole of the upper rivet hole, The trigger spring can be any Schall spiral spring, such as is found in carburetors, some mechanical * Pentland various other places. ‘BIeS ‘0 DANNEE iG—-Fig. 1: With a small fiat fle, bevel tthe inside edges of the frame plates where the bottom side of the Darrel touches, eo that when the barrel 1s In place Tt sels down Renlly between the top of the frame plates, Have the Darrel 1og om the ‘barrel while doing tule, Now with the barrel held ghtiy. in Place dril the hinge pin hole on throwyh the barrel ive and the left Fraine plate. All holes must be dried straight through—not on an angle STEP 11. CHAMBERING THE BARREL—Fis. 1: Use a number two drill to dril out the Breech end of the bore of the barrel, the engi of a 22 short cartridge. Next use a number one drills and dei ka the same depth. Now sia nine thirty-seconds Grill let the Readfof the cartridge Into the brecch of the barrel. As you let the head {h, you should deepen the chamber with the miner one drill 60 i eaterge wil go tm when the cartridge bead is uth with the breech end of the barrel the Dullet should Just toush the riling. ‘This mates for accuracy. Use a hand dril for the chambering wil the barrel in the vise. ‘STEP 12. FIRING PIN—Fig. 1 de 10: Grease the barrel side of the breech block very lightly and put it in place, then put the barrel in place. Now put a pinch of lau of powder’ down te barrel, then Sour it out, and with the gun in that position take the hinge p.n Sut and pull the barrel straight away from the breech block. If you Sere caretiul there will be argued white spot ou the Breech bio. where the eartridge head wil be wien the gun Is loaded. Drill the Rring pin hole straight through the breech bovk at the botiom of the wilite spot. Now with m pis that is to be the firing pin In place, Grin the fring pin retaining pip hole. The dril wall force the flog ‘oul of its Hole, 20 It mast be held in during the drilling. After hole is drlied take the fring pin cut and file the notch mad by the dil wide enough Yo let the ring pin move about one-us teenth of an inch. Get xome fred 22 sels and study the mark made by the firing pin belore you shape yours, A goad site ls & Feotangle, one-a xeenth of am inch wide and about three thirty Feconds ofan inah high it should hit jst inide the edge of the csrtridge head, but not Gn tie edge as this takes too sirong a main Spring, If the Aring pin caiches on the edge of the chamber when Pes atlempt to open ihe agian, rotnd of the Botiem af the cham edge with a very small Ale. Stee 13. ACTION LOC SCHLEW—Fig. 1: This screw can be made ofany small machine screw about one-elghth inch Jn diameter oF S iittle larger. ft can be shorter than the one shown if you ike. Drill the hole in the barrel lug and just start it in the breeeh block. Mark the spot in the breech block with the gun essembled. It Joa have a tap to cut treads in this hole for the locking «crew, Be, but if you do not, hacksaw a. square notch in the bottom ‘sf th Darrel lug and t's nut, that the locking screw fits, in this notch, Mae wil sang Be ao the nat wil not turn when you serew ths ‘serew through tt, ‘STEP 14, BREECH BLOCK RIVETING—Fig. 1: When riveting the breech block the fring pin must be In place: File the top rounded to maich the barrel ahd the bottom emooth ‘with the frame plates, ‘The top of fhe frame plates top in line nith the barvel, bo this Fiveting neatly az it wif show in the Anished qua. Do not have your Hels too long. ‘They can ve filed shorter even fuer you have Rarteg the riveting, ‘SIEeP 15, HAMMER—Fx. 1 & 8: The hammer ts made of one- quarter inch iron, then fled s Uittie thinner zo it wil work freely Between tise frame plates. The eye that the Hammer spring Rooks into is less than one-eighth inch thick and in the center of the Rammer s0 the spring will center between the frame plates. Drill the hook hole before you fle ft ts shape. Tt caz be just large enough, to take the spring hook. Bo not Ale the Hoichea for the trigger tear ye ‘STAP 16, TRIGGER—Fig. 1 & 1: The trigger 1s filed trom one guarter nen iron then ‘ioned for clearance, When you eit aped out, fay ft and the hammer on the outilde of the gun and pat ‘8 pin through the hole in each piece and in the proper hole in irame plates Now file the notches in the hammer end At the trigger to 1 it the hammer and trigger pine St mug in the fram Diave holes it is mot necessary to rivet thers. STsP 17 HAMOUER SPRING AND PIN--Fg. t:The hammer spring s\n short stout col spring with & heck on eath end. It anust Be Email enough to fit loosely between tie frame plates. If it is not Stout you wil have mis-fires, Garages and hardware siares are the beat faces to find them. ‘The hammer spring pin ts not riveted ‘The butt stocks mil Keep tn, STEP 13, SIGHTS—Pog. 1&9: The front sight ls Med from a block of tron one-quaer of ai inch high, three-eitidhs of am inch pide Sha one-hal toch foog: Fie che ‘oich in tbe berrel frst, then Shape out te sight to tigitiy im ie Drive itn abd leave 1¢ there. ‘The fear sight'can be znaped but do not le he notch in it ye STEP 1, SIGHTING IN, Put the barrel ot the gun in the vice In suena way tat you can sce through Ove barrel aud later put the Fest of tie gun on the barrel without fosrening the vise on the Darrel stick’n plece of scotch tape (araneparent) over the muse Sf the barrel rth a large pin hove in ihe center, Next punch Sinall bole im the center of the head of a hced 27 case ad put ft In'ihe chamber of the barrel Now sisi through the peep bee it the earirtige and through the hole in the seoich per Have felon hola guper wh crus drawn on about aft fest way na move tbl you ase be center af the exes throngh the peep ‘bles Have flim (stent ia Usat position with one of {he lines et the eras straight-up and down. Kow without moving the barrel pat the rest of the gum on the barrel and screw the Tocking screw up snug. Nett fie & square noteh ta the tear aight, Working sovly and sithtiae down the sgh often, You should Plenty of tet on eitner aide of the front signe in the notch Fear fpht. Fue the rear sgt and front aight andl Jour gun ‘signed in to hit the vertical line ef he cross about one inch fy than wnere the two lines eross Later wnen you shost Jour you can do's litle more fing on is sights until {tits wher you oti atthe range Yeu thik mot of oar shooting wil be aun Gen shooting held the gua in your hands not in the vise, Shoot freshoty ata toark and see how hey group. Sit down, hold the gun ‘ith both ‘hands sid put your eltoe’ on your knees but do not fetlyoor unt band on &'oX or Jou wi not be dighted tn for off and shasta ‘Step 20, BUTT STOCKS_Fig. §: The stocks are made of walnut or any dey wood Usree-elehihs Gf an inch thick Out them to anape swith's coping saw. Drill the stock screw hole through them betore Jeushapy ihm foo Shove, Te geck pn oto be ong enous to ge to the back side of each siock about three-sixteesith of nine 0 they will not turn, Ghape the stocks to At your hand. The curved end up Wear the hammer should be about fn eighth ot ai ined {lex Brit's recess in each tovk se the head and nut of the alock Screw are att Into the woed. Any tall bol with a hex nut ean be taeda. Make the nut a Gghe At in it Tecegs and ie it amgoth sat bie suriace of the wood, Make ltt hollows on the inaige of the Hovis for the ends of the frame rivets Sand the stocks, smooth td aoa the in iueed : Hy SIE 21, SUING” After fou hase shot your pistol enough you are sure itis biting where you want Ye to you ate ready 10F The btuing. rave the gum taxen apart springs ouf, and all the sure faces ihe? wil show, polished. with ine emery ect ‘antl they shine, Lay Ghem ‘on & plece of tin oh the Wichen wove or play the Rame at's bicw torch over them and when they turn a dack blue After the purple colze Jenves, take them aay from the heat and ot them wlth’ Unseed off wile ail warts. if sou Go net get a Sine on'a part, poli It tnd try again. A dollar bottle of instant fr touchup bialng wil give & food. Jeb, One of the professional Gluing methods as outlined in detall’in my booklet, Poiving for Plearire and Prof whieh sel for one dolar wil give your gun 4 factory num Pit your run back together, rivet the Binge Hin fo the aculon ir ats, ol the moving parts, ad you are Peay for Sears of shooting.BREECH BLOCK FRONT SIGHT FIRING PIN RETAINING PIN 5 eer pane: mal 5 FIRING PIN. ~ x HAMMER: Rl eaaicngieemneneetd ceamamaieles cenit HAMMER PIN pitas ASE oe oe Deh nT OA NO . HAMMER SPRING. HAMMER SPRING PIN. Ft —— BARREL LUG. ol}. > —— HING PIN O oo ACTION LOCK SCREW TRIGGER SPRING BARREL LUG SCREW TRIGGER PIN TRIGGER FIG.1 © RIGHT & LEFT FRAME PLATES BUTT STOCK SCREW ee iaeS —=" FIG. 6 BUTT FILLER BLOCK BUTT STOCK PIN 2 © y FIG, & FIG. 9 RIGHT & LEFT BUTT STOCKS FIG.7