NUMBER TWO J/) zs THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AUGUST, 1928 z CONTENTS TWENTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS IN FULL COLOR Nature and Man in Ethiopia With 55 Illustrations: WILFRED H. OSGOOD The Balearics, Island Sisters of the Mediterranean With 12 Titustrations ROY W, BAKER Spain's Enchanted Isles 26 Avtochromes Lumiére GERVAIS COURTELLEMONT Archeology, the Mirror of the Ages With 19 [llustrations ¢. LEONARD WOOLLEY A Woman’s Winter on Spitsbergen ‘With 20 Illustrations MARTHA PHILLIPS GILSON PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON,.D.C.Vor. LIV, No. 2 WASHINGTON Aveusr, 192 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Sab eee CaaS eee moemiee hem" NATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA* By Witeren H. Oscoon, Pr. D. Tange op te Faris Steen Cnicvon Tice News Ammsprian Rareonan on apatrssr With Phorographs ty the Author and Alfred Me Bailey, Monier of the Expedition FRICA, ‘once known as the Dark Continent, still has a few dark corners, lnit most of them are rela tively small and, with one notable excep- tion, no large area remains which is not under European. influence. ‘This is the ancient independent Empire of Ethiopia, which sits aloof om its ¢levated plateau, tmeconquered, little known, and almost un- sting. . Its autonomous position, however, is not for lack of imterest, since it is langer than the Republic of France, it has a de- lightful and healthful climate, atid its eco- nomic resources have large possibilities. [i is rather because it natural strategic advantages of location and because it is inhabited by a wonderfully patriotic and warlike people, who tave defended it against all comers. re not too: particular i oar atial- pia might be called the ‘Tiber Tt has no Dalai Lama anid no 1 city: of Lhasa, with its monas hut it does have a nittnerots. rel gious people, ancient and isolated, living in a motintain stronghold Om the top of a continent, Ibis mat now exacth a closed territory * While the author game Abyssinia and tomarily referred the United States name Rillionks, in. acerrdance cpiat sanction. Ancient, E21 im the way that ‘Tibet is, but it has been practically clused for long perinds im the past and foreign travel within its borders has always been very limited:t Tn order to enter it, one must ask permission of the Ethiopians (Abysainians) themselves, rather than of some Enropean power. With Afghanistan and Siam, it is one of the three absolute monarchies left iu the world. PEOPLID Av THE DAWN bY aTisToRY ‘The beginnings of Ethiopia go back to timesof myth and legend. Unlike Egypt, with which some of its early history was dembtless connected, it has left unly: scant and very imperfect records, ‘That it was peapted from the north, perhaps frony-an- cient Judes, with additions from Egypt ait Arabia, is evident. The fore, are Hamitic and Semitic in origin. Asta when and-how they arrived, there is much tnicertainty. Apparently we may iro back to 100g Hi, C. with some degree of safety; mt even here we have no: solid ground of fact and, since it is a matter of specnlation and inference anyway, there are those who are willing to believe in origins as remote as 3000 B,C. Amoug these are the Ethiopians themselves, whose pride of ancestry may perhans be excused for being allowed to outweigh the accn- racy of their historical chronicles. ‘One of their most cherished traditions See, also, “A Caravan Journey ‘Thorciah Abyssinia” by Harry ¥, Harlan, in the Naw fiosar Geocnaverte Macasrxe: for June, 1CRAPHIC MAGAZ PORTICO OF THE Te RU ME PALACE RAS TARFARI The dog was their constant ¢ Hund Hoth showed smmch aifection for rely unchanged : lomo anach eros 9 eda, Oras now des- moving at ben hela, who is sup- —Althoi Lemon at is that of the d Hhy Negro. tribes xture fed, the ¢ d to have salem about 1¢ adn throw tr J, with hair usually ratly thick, bat he net foreien aintainer! themselves and indepenilent people. a firm chin (sce illustrations, Their territory has expantted oF con- nd 131). To this he adds a tracted from time to time, but its esset vet dignified bearing and a warlike ‘Their civil and spirit, which ma and their autlook ling manner. re- His principal lan, s persisted, social customs, languay upon the rest of the world is Ambaric, an Ika |were OMALIUAR D reason | sia A MAP OF ETHIOPIA Tn an area of, 30,000 sejunre:milles resides an estimated population of 19.000.000, of, whom about onethird are trie Ethiopians. . The amthor lel an expedition from Addis Ababa, the Supital, to the satithern territory: infuabited hy the Gallas:then north through Gaffes to Ganda pnd the Lake ‘Tsuna region, covering nearly 2.000: miles of territary and milking pearly 290 camps. ancient Semitic tongue, but many lan- for the introduction of foreign ideas, most i are spoken. There is of which were ineffective during his lifc- nd only priests time, but which are now beginning to have can real and write in Geez, also af Semitic important results. origin, but a dead language no. longer hie government is an old-fashioned spoken. fendatism, such as flourished in Europe: "There are various tribes, but the domi- in the Middle Ages. Theoretically, the fant one, representing the original stock, hereditary ruler és all-powerful, with the mainly occupies the central and northern life or death of every man in his hands, part of the country, All are subject to his call to arms and, oe . through-a system of provineial governors, YRUDALISM, SLAVERY, AND: CHRISTIANITY overlords, and petty chieis, to taxation The modern history of Ethiopia may he and other forms of service. snid to begin with the famous emperor Practically, the system is subject to and national hero, Menelik TI, who riled some variation; for, in a coumiry with poor communication and many. physical outlying savage harriers, might can make right here as tribes, added much territory, and encour- eleewhere, and it is sometimes possible for aged the inception of i railway the a man ta rise to comparative power coast, [ial this he laid the foundation through his own effort. Under the FesdalAZINE PHIC MAG.THIOPIANATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 148 we arti 1, Adit flower lomatic a centrally two words m tert by Iiwa Abalis, when the en En the sa few buildi nd western © ‘ut welling h thatebed SEIVEN TRAFFIC OF THT CAPITAL'S STREETSTIONAL GEL toil nd hustled him away, coal wice then placed nid the bo and. alto nts a curious mixture of modern, toxe tires due to 1 s founded searcely me er with cer et that e that 70 years ago Hyenas howl at night and Ford ears and rattle by Camels in lone miles ange. from ta SRAPHIC MAGAZINE tive scrubs to the fin- et Arabians. sheep, goats, dogs—all k f dome pt pigs: t reds. motor ride through this teeming life is more or less of an venture and is deprived of its inter- est by the noise of the horn, is, perforee, obli keep honking cally all the titne. While the people flock through the streets all day, they are forbidden to be out at nijght, as there is no m, and ark the high- e leit to the ing dogs and hy= Even teopards beett known to r the city at he curfe ly strictly Ggninen. Teed enjoined to can at night, and if they ure wise they pros themselves with ward dogs, + All this. sounds § somewhat forbieldin but in reality a journ in Addis which the driver ed to acti cae colony is cordial, and rank also extend hospitality One may indulge in horseback riding, tennis, teas, and inners. aud: alth motoring i expensive and not yet sion, it contributes to freedom and rapid ty of movement within the city for busi- plirposes Americans are male ta feel at home bis countrymen connected with the withf the medical ind mich to. ct sith nward At feeling TALP AR the ter of Meneli practical a pire Throne.” eins rin company with foreigners, Waizert thosen madern { plished che rhed 1ALR AND { ETHIOPIA ng di uttifully lecerat how! ull tdi of live rk ths new nothin;ANAMA. SAI watch over the anil «hil certain, police duty capital mareh, but thei d con the custom e southern fe Have not ast 3 we were nL-SeW ph he wihknown province of A: hut in the I the main part ith the rent the t w under large trees of Calif we had 60 mules and 40 1 headmen, personal ser and ar ter liminaries t fewNATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA iss pute sthied and the insti the slavery: a is African cous ary f wrangling with the men of the caravan — Amorig the best of them were ott get them away from the eity and.actn— y. it was with profound action that we settled into the free, Ufe uf exmp and trail, This we foranid delish nd expectations individuals, whose tircless en debit could dl chowse ely be any Tace of peapie it world. Above all, they were never sical cowands, ‘This was proved ati PHYSICAL COWARDICE, UNKNOWN many occasions in encounters with dan- Que men were proud, suspicion very jeale of personal rights, hat af sof mount bad character's, or river, and in meeting real fancied now the others in- hostilities from natives along the way after we had learned to ever else he is, ti fopian is Te fea few words of their language, we a physi diffienlty in managing them. 1 coward, A THREAT FROM BANDITS against ¢ never ¢ adjudication, but in the mais loyal and willing to dé our bidd the city they were unnemageable, on the jed change was e They. have and are bor- wr perstition, but them at ¢lose quarters, We were camped work willingly and in an isolated place on the banks of small river, at the bottom of a canyon, need Th Adilis Ababa we had received nings abont robbers and bandits, -shif as they are called, and, althimgh they nivlest a5 seriously, we of evidence of their existerm not long dened with custom and. st under efTHE, NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAG Were never it th spect. Iris only a relat time since all in was a mere collection of swarr tribes without except loca Ay still wets. For thi i THY CRELITOR TARES N ive if His MAN els alune exept in hi ry. Our will not eet bis obliga. own ter be ‘riven ita hand." ‘This — fp n Ethiopian debtor applies befuce debtor to th Jest tot eee a other tribe would. stop and anne they contd ther, we w from th 1 to lown to the “WENUTIFULLEST COUNTRY IN THE Wort y through which we traveled eyond description, Moun. forests and much of withnish such a variety of natural conditions as is rarely to be found, Before leaving America and just after our plans had been an nomnced, we had re- ceived a letter from att American prospector who. offered us his sérvices, Evidently he was a rough diamond, a ‘Trader Horn of a sort, and his letter concluded. by saying, “It is the beautifullest country in the world.” We soun came to agree with him, Although much of the country is thickly inhabited, the people live in sinall, round, grass-thatched Iu ts. knownias fichuls, whieh are hilt in small clus ters om the tops Knolls or so. nestled ito the sides of the hills that they seem al- ways to have been there. Since there are no. fences or runds, Ho telegraph lines, and no wheeled yelticles of kind, the appear ance of smiling virgin ature is. everywhere maintained. During seven tmonths" travel we cov ered nearly two thousand miles of terri~ tory and made nearly two hundred cantps ‘There was scarcely one of these that did not provide an attractive setting and all practical requirements—level ground for the tents, water and forage for the nnsles, shade, firewood, and opportunity th cal lect specimens of mammals and birds. abuxt arm fre We Pi KS OF TINK BIRDS SUG aun EST SUNSEI ipia offers as delightful conditions for outdoor life as can be found anywhere in the world, he dry season, there is ally no danger of Feter, andl ingect NATURE AND MANIN ETHIOPL ‘The princial wattment of vir yards hug, with whic ‘one drapes his seart, or charitia, dex 138 DANDIES we Ethiopian is a idle cottan scarf, he swaths ftimself, leaving tut nne ft for women), “Tlie way in which tes his secial or eificial position, pests, with the exception of fleas in the settlements, offer little or no annoyan Jn the Hawash Valley we had our first real introduction to the African fauna. ied life was aluindant; there were eroco es in the river, and troops of small gray gnenon monkeys scampered through the trees. On beth sides of the river were broad meadows of deep grass, from which tose fle ducks and geese; stitely white forks stood scattered about, contrasting: with their more graceful cousine de- izelle cranes, which were in small par- flocks of great white pyclicans heavilyNATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA. 1st JUSTICE Is FREQE ‘The perl ll of ao each man pleads his prayisl naps). in effe thistles mounted | a promising section of the mountains, no forest at this at globular fluorescent halls color (see illustration tulded with hoary flowers, or “everlast tiful spot 7 a sunny glade partly stirrounded by te and cont e matted with manding a ts relations, We called thi use here we hat ting the me ther we anid ha at banks of lopes.and one down the m lower lamp” be= sttecess in or growth at th Mixctl with this he patches of sinnll tres and pr I arg)138 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, Spite of 1 sis yer, frequent such luewt penny by a precipites ankey (vee page 14g), a8AND MANUIN ET At vine oa) with el small otirects ef c green, yellow, rei, whe Tnsrerning hired in a . need heather’ ( Erica site Un hus many yellow’, roxclike blonoms. on aceotint of buck crashed out'on the other side searcel ation ani fi He must have seen me pectinig me to w rods, tut when Fac against his lier pateh the ly rain Tow it, Like hunter, the nyala je open on high mountain glades 3 a magnificent scrme buck, eh me stood ‘at attention for me, was nifying effect ofTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINEThe natives we met bern Exhiopin Galk northern. pat country. and have | cotne so power! me Aussi Galla with whem ¢ were most howe aquered ‘hy Mene ire now subject 10 the rule of local « laced over theni by the and makes efx American | One of These chiefs receive no ja ti pliment them arsemen, 1 notorious marauders, ich menial work fe, but Ethiop! f them sweetLit THE NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE,NATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 146 BEBIIVES ANT everal species. bu mists, trent women well-to-do cir the MANITEN TIN AMONG T = ARUSSI GALLAS tipo si xt only eccasionally Are HOW | on, Truitna16 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A CHER Gos 1 udalism stiff siarvives aronie the Ethiopians and no anf armed retamers: ‘To uo no wo it an esoort Of servants di be to tose enste, A HEFICENT PoReH GP Britt CLEANS Both Black wings and white sins co theig bit im keeping Ethiopian communities fry carrion, Ravens and vultures finda this way trom48 THE NATIONAt, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINENAT A few we nce to American hur there were the chu hick-lilled tay {many id smalle ture of the guereza morikey (Cofobic species with long, flowing bl telus Tes arlene tontikey very active, tearing through the tops of th trees anc making long downwaril leaps, ‘ometimes for so or 75 feet, and seem to test to luck for a landing place Near auch times it is very comspicnons, but when it chooses to hide iy can do so most ly in avery small Imach nf foli- ertes, the sy, eroakin vultures, f his there with AND MAN IN UE FEW LIONS LEET IN Motintains our party was itively dry region which led irst time he he: aw me with its throu; z white-tufted tail waving aloft like a dite Mack and white | the “a hearse on a spre en, he Ererra I of the Chilato dividedt the southern and Cutting timed eastward to » old Mohammedan set- Hussein, and then arthward thr ittle-enown and rel nem hack to152183,. THE N appalling punishn Fithiopia, flowi tarsal roof the view oking this ex: ale hit is risonis with t i the tn the Went in parties of fottr in wa their armpits, ‘They were able to keep footing bracing t enc common lead which awn ger from: th hut hav yanday 1 fuss with real Hace seemed uni ing just crosae ing for th 1 mi which 1, shout the i from ecame surly van nd de ‘Therefnce wearguing Ives, but move t This was in the ture of a bint on inee af cc was. the uit it bad the lesired effect As we upon this, we do not consider that it w nis situ time it is trne A MOMENT ¢ As to the li would gladly La really dan remote tribe, ihe rim wi which fareign was no part c h we afterward learned that with Ioaded guns, post suddenly dour ta keep au- wasNATURE AND) MAN IN ETHIOPIA, cartridges for it and at once begun shoving same into the magazine, Meanwhile our other armed men puiled cartridges: from their belts atid at once assumed defensive attitudes,, it was all a matter of seconds, -and Foertes and I, Itiekily present, but at the time entirely ignorant of the circumstances leading up to the outbreak, rushed in, shouting at our men to stand back and calling for the interpreter to bring the smatter to:a parley. We placed the blnne om our owt man and pronounced a fine upon him, to be paid to the incensed stranger. At the same time I drew a few small ening from my own pocket and offered them osten- as recompense far the torn clothing. ‘he young man was mollified at ance, with the result that a situation which might have resulted in the loss of several lives, perhaps itichding our own, was settled for twelve cents in American money. RECALCITRANT GUIDES IMPRESSED 1NTO SERVICE Our relations with the Gallas, ani in detioral with other tribes, were for the most part pleasant and friendly, and we Sfieaecioyed tiem lan Inveens and guides, ‘The trails are little more than cowpaths, constantly forking and runminy in all di- rections, In order not to lose time be~ tween main points, therefore; it was neces- sary for us to have local guides from day to day. These guides were furnished by the local chiefs, were paid for their serv- ices, and usually were very glad to go with us. In one place in the far south, however, we had considerable difficulty with guides. ‘This was ear the province of Walamo, where a French traveler had been killed two years previously. It was the cou sensis of opinion that his death had been due to his own excitable and ill-advised actions, but his government protested and ‘Ras Taffari was induced to make att ex~ ample of the natives supposed to be im: plicated, and, after some sort of trial eleven of them were hanged. Th the region where this tragedy oe curred we found the natives not hostile, Init decidedly inclined to keep out of onr way. ‘The chiefs were very solicitous for 187 our safety, but the rank and. file simply didn’t want to be found within gunshot of os. The result was that we would go toa chief and ask fora guide, and after he had assigned oné to tu we would start out, butat the first opportumity the guide would dodge into the bush and disappear, forfeiting Gur ptomiised teward and leay- ing us adrift, We finally placed the guide under guar ind marched hint along at the bead of the caravan between two armed men. vase, through the leniency of the guards, of perhaps through. collitsion, the guide was permitted to visit alleged friends ina hut along the way. When he failed to reappear the owner of the hut was seized told he must take his place. He protested loudly and his women and neighhors yathered around, wailing and imaling dire predictions. When they real- ined we. meant business, however, they scattered, andl inn short time shouts were heard from a thick patch of hananas near by, and soon a crowd came out. dragging the original guide, who ultimately re waived with us voluntarily for two extra dt after contact with onr men had con- vineed him he was in no real danger, Atone time, while traveling without a ghide, we came to a small village, and as we approached ive could see the inhabit- anis scurrying into their huts. By. the time we arrived the place seemed deserted, One or two women remained in their doorways, hut no men were in sight. js ledl out and the locality ywas 'y bowey ; so fora few miles at least a guide was essential, Selecting the most important-looking habitation, our interpiteter started to en- ter and search fora man; but his prog- ress was immediately barred by a young womatt, who appeared at the entrance and had to be forced aside. No man found inside, although we felt sure wi hae seen one go in. Meanwhile we sent aut -a small scouting party, which soon, returned with a trembling old man, Wornen began to gather about him; then two scared young men joined the group, declaring that they were the cap> tive’s sous, and that they ‘would tale his place rather than have him impressed into service as a guide. ‘This was quite satis: factory, and a few hours later, when they were dismissed and rewarded, their man-58 ‘THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AN EXAMTLE OF EFITIOPLAN ARCIITECTURE uriph bh 1 uy would appe: hap HOSPITALITY ALONG THLE WAY Whe we went tt e was to take him the rious chiefs was our tent, wh a table would be set, and source of interest. From Ry snr boys would bring him food and rin the seap nwn to the sh headman, of the smallest villa route, practically all officials re graciously and courteously. ‘They insisted on doing it formally, howeve 1 much mie Ww uumed! in visiting and being sited when we wanted to get on our way was the shape e anil carry on our work: “thiopians bel mask us all sorts of queATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 1 find. them ing to have ing th other people think it is rout Local chiefs the Gall tribes i south have been sent there I 1g ment and are men. ¢ 1 int rior te One wh usin Arussi x very sweet and gentle with a he- rn the cent disposit ard wartiot characteristics. Int the f birds and that sort, but it seems Gut 8m a pity to kill these ESE INVADER si THE TRAVELER OF PORT cctural works at G Besides more improsstve arch dat (soe page 180 tiful, harmless jhe Purtug several substantial bridges Mt qorthern Ex ‘These arc mcd by the Fitbopiaits, but have not affecte { oven work, for their bridges ave few and. primitive in character, of the beauty I aur requests for guides 9 was common for then to yin effect: “Ir isn't a in, where only a few whether T can or will, 1 must, for my oticed them, whereas we were superior orders it” hum where they might be enjoyed — "This, of who had never seen them aw the | ance. escemed very apt the birds, 1 se particular om imens cot arse, depended soniewl pon the individual. In one rather re nate place, were min terjected Taifari! Whois he? Hurrah for M. A her time a rather impe with a qt i all very w MENELIK NOT YET FORGOTTEN of the minor chiefs nt. When shown ur letters hey would take to extol him with much feeling, ing to-entertain and quired if cuuld ful- account.” ztical mot Tam p on Mm}RAPHIC MAGAZINE: EARLY A QUARTER OF ET2roPza’s MALE TO) the land where beba one tuled, but, a cish eon for office, the hol sticld a mighty in e that govern: te the cere in the foeegraund a shum had visi attention, Here, immediately after {for him ta send ns of our ter a long Tine of staves » amount depending upon his marched ce times it was real, j afew pancakes of native. of 1 alf a dozen we reached the yrre nd camped in the precinets ¢ wer, chict ny bay and. barke andles of firewood far eur camp, and live stock on the hoof—a couple of nd, Such large g nice uth, it is reported ted idea of hit pow horts und tharched little ‘of ‘no: loss. of captured and imprisoned,NATURE, AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 163 he ig nearing: a cho conti of the surrour is a. yereat ¢ heat of the plate churehes et xifed buildings, fel comst a small yom in the center, & A broud, yullerylie room enetr Thhe wat! to him, a change in our s delivery impracticable of supplying fond march or to important eor 1 g standing a sort of entor ax upon the, carried out rollin, it is in reality a stBor, HAS NAS, AND: COFFEE ince with evidences his pre » firm his lacy ish We found ma ney Over much of the province there isa heavy growth of bamboo, which not only affects the natural appearance of the s the works of man. It fon of Jarger and cf alike thronahiut. the Ean or sights a fa YT 18 are lept fy aml Easily con wridlges y af ham: g. but in reality ve were found over I root of which is used! to give Sidamo an aspect very different from the Tt was here. al we visited, tered the ec meet trai with ba; Ababa, an far export ve to this part of Eth the provinee of K sce map, [8 e westwardNATURE ntimber, and just be- ‘ore we left for the last time a. traffic offi- ver was stationed the cipal stre torsection ! CASYON OF THE IVE NIU Latein Feb aryour chtire party northward fwith a plenished and im- proved outfit, an en- larged and selected native personnel, and ing of conficence hor of the experi- ences hehind ws. We passed. rapidly through central Shoa aver grassiands which were hard and dry, al- though a few month: previcusly they had heen largely covere with standing water and frequented by thousands of wat bird “The trail fed aerass the canyon of th Muger Rtiver, a rge of no Hy mensions, and t onward t0 the famovis bhai, or Nile his extends for many en VECETATION A! MOUNTA miles and effectually cuts of the northern. provirices of Hthi- opia frum the central ani southera part { the country. During a great part of the year it is quite impassable, and this condition gives to of the north- em proviness a farge measure of inde- dence. ‘The rim Of the canyon is f perpendicular ‘walls of reddish mtinwous that in- gress and egress are possibile only at lonit intervals, well known points which have been used for centuries, The canyon drops abruptly from. the grase-grown level of the platean, and we searcely had a preliminary view of it be- fore we stood on its very edge. ‘Then it was magnitis Inbotiowsly de- AND MAN iN ETHIOPIA 108 2 GIANT LOBE 14,000 FHT, STEN FONRGROUND 4 seerided, new vistas’ unfolded at every tutte ‘The trai and in places tired umales, Fortunately, water about fway down the south wall, and another foot of the upper escarpment art the north, ‘This ma possitile to. ar= range the crossing in three days, which is about all that mules and men can endare. The first day took us halfway down the south the second day we reached the river, forded it, and climbed part way ot and the third we finished the gruel climb to the north rim, Here the aneroid eet, practically the same At the river the again read B.1a0 f as on the south side.THE NATION L GEOGR. PHIC MAGAZINE at SOUR r OY TIE BLUE NILE de near the left center of the picthre surrounds 1 astern branch of the great Nile, T The group to the right hus ecm This actial pource oF the text, page 17 STITUTE Te A GLAZED TRAIL NEAR THE SUDAN noRDER ‘The trees are & ited! whens small and continue to grow, ths furnishing avery eff of ng Tittle-used paths meansNATURE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 107i; MOUNTED ON to Ra This fame © aqua renin 3 the canyon at th 5,000: fee "The region inside the canyon is piracti= ally uninhabited and largely unexplored. hice is reputed to be fi halite, bist we saw fone, so the depth of S point i$ almost exactly ite grovel i HEADWATERS OF THE BLA NILE, The Hue Nile in this section makes a big hend-and, although the point whe we crossed is thany miles from its source hy the windings ofthe river, we were able eut across this hend and in:a relatively short time reach its tiltimite headwaters Gish Abbai, near Satal tains of central Gojjam. Here spring tises in a mountain meadow at an elevation of about 9,000 fect A trickling rivulet runs the: dales, soon to be joine farm the stream called th whieh British engineers hi determined as the troe page 160) n fins into and ¢ lower end pf Lake T's other waters of the Inke net through hy others to Little Abts © auth auirce of th ronegh the , emerging wi form the ma ‘Taffari im power, is sarraunded by hi oned! anit! cera INEST MULE IN tron a very thighs Abbai, or Bhi Nile proper. ‘The spring at the source is regarded by the matives a holy place and its water is a sort of Jordan to them, They have ‘erected a light stockade around it and make pil- grimiges to it from distant points, A number of natives were here when wearrived. and for several days they were coming and going oF sitting about with their water jars conducting simple devo= tion Mr. Fuertes and 1 began to get some of the romance of the situation, and at meal time would amuse ourselves by lift- ing our glasses ani apostrophizing the great river, or, as we | would drop chips into i marks abott mecting thetn a ium or Cairo. However, far dome purposes, we took the precaution ta have the water boiled, here as elsewhere. MAGNIFIC f RECEPTION RY On the north bank of the Biue Nile we itered the important province of Gojj rich realm of the famous cl Hailu, second im wealth Taffari, but aceupying an isulated terri to RasJRE AND MAN IN ETHIOPIA 171 tory As yet little éted by modern in- enlarging, perhaps with the fluences ing a new capital We hail sent we spraneh, and For th when we « place, was there 10 top warns ein the trail, we canfro So men drayen stp in or- to meet us—a sort of guard or ted hy a handsome chambestain ait emissary ide us, nted 115 with. a Ras Hail ornate, seal send for ti disnounted and excha invited to, proc grectin: sthis ward the "The sy ona high rid i pesto the hail expected te at Debra Mar imarot, w sons, he was rebuilTHE and 3 cut Off small pictes and eat The the other. A band af 20 slaves weird tmsic chormotts esen awn boys pr hind us, the ¢ ng stated the march, and our fell in on either side. Our fly formed in.a square be- cavan of mules and and w returning from battle march ended at the omskirts af wh ite hal heen set Arab tent, al rugs, had ants trailed jn the rear Tike her its floor laid with rich or been pitched for us, ISTIMATE REL TONS |W RAS TEATLU ‘The next when we met the lh fied his royal welcome arid rd about him. ‘There- vivid per- lity monopoli on. Our work of collecting specimens was. balte and all ideas of proceeding on nr way had to be until he saw fit to release us, Each day he came to visit our camp and eich day he provided entertain men ality for us in the village. The invitation was ‘to luncheon and we rode up to ont host's compoun accompanied by a goodly escort of our im HAS the meat is served ow large wooden ila thet wid age 176) awn bo: the oecasion, guant of men in spotle: on their shoulders, and as we entered the onter inclosure several hundred more rose 1d stood at attention in long lines tt which we passed to the inti Here we dismounted ar Ras Hailu, who 1 smiling and 1 these notables and severtl of or more important “boys” stood within call, but only Ras Hail at table with us. ‘There were fifteen courses, main! in various forms, t ing goo hicken, > te} were served lavishly a and there was also ¢ cognae and native coffee. The next day a return engagement arranged, and the Ras readily ac heet and 1 continuously sueo This sort of thing wa: hen able, comevt THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC AGAZINE agging and subjects mging from pierna- ional relations to cures lacked omules Although the chief is a large, ponderens mitt with rather heavy fea- tures, he has an en- aging smile and a ter- indefinable charm that we could il i recognize, He cided sense of hn fond of a gor his conmment attire were us and sc y pithy quite We were the ans to piss way, and it wa nt he wished! to important Topresentatives of a great nation, but he was shrewd enough not to refe this and made | pliments delicately ty to us as indi. fe did not ne of ote ersarin vidual; leet van, men from Ad Ababa, where he has many ad rors. A BAW-ME, eA One of the most in g incidents of stay with Ras a great guebeur, Lenten raw-meat bella. Owing to the chief's tempat quarters, this was | it, in gf style (sec 172) for some ane requ tire male served, prisoners un for minor ol16 ‘The feast was far from being an orgy. It was conducted in a yery orderly: man- ner, Long tables and benches supported by wicker cylinders were elosely arranged, and the groups of men filed in aml. took their places with great solemnity. Steers fai heen slauglitered sicar by and the meat was brought inon linge wooden plactiers and passed about to the feasters, who cut it in small pices with slender’steel knives and ate it deliherately with bread and drink. ‘The flesh was in red, quivering chunks of about a half pouid each and was consimed withont any wolfing or tearing. . We. Ourselves, sat on a dais at a special table with the Ras, where we were served! with special food! and drink, Raw meat was offered ws, but nat tinged upon ws, as was the case with other mative food. As the jeasters filed out, some of the older men stopped in fromt of our table andl made short, impassined spoiches ad dressed te their chief, extolling him and expressing good wishes to us, his guests. Finally, there was music and daneing and some rather rough pantontime by a bent of slaves, and the affair broke wp with fanghter nnd good feeling. ‘The euting wf raw ment sedis to have no particulur tgnificance and ix said to have had its origin during intertrilial wars, when camps without lites were necessary, IBEX WUNTING INTHE SIMYE: MOUNTAINS Around the famous Lake T'sana our party was divided, one going tw the south and west and the other ta the north and east via the old sertlement of Gondar, where there are interesting ruins of stone ‘nildings erected by Partuygiesé adverittir- ers (sce pages tsq:and 160)- ‘The Gondar party, cumposed of Baum, Bailey. and wet northenst to the yen Mountains, the highest group in ithiipia, reaching an extreme elevation ef nore than 1,000 feet, Its main object was to Imnt the Abyssitian thes. a rare animal, found only in these mountains, ‘The chief of Simyen, Dejazmatch Ayal, receivei! the party cordially, and, although he is not repated to be so rich or power ful as Ras Hailu, he almost outdid him i ‘his demonstrations. Without his friendly THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, codperation nothing would have heen pos- ible, since the. ihexes and the cliffs they inhabit are his personal preserve. Ibex hunting in any part of the world is back-breaking work, usually exciting, and often dangerous. In the Simyens our hunters found it everything it was reputed to be and even more. ‘The mountains were execeditigly precipitons, and if it had not been for willing native guides who, went up and down the dizzy pinnacles, cling- ing with bare feet like flies to a wall, the Festiits might haye been «disappointing, As it was, a fine series of specimens was ob- ined, the first ever te fall to American Fifles and! the first ever to be brought to an American museum, Mr. Bailey had ne expatbence which Be will not soom forget. In brief, he shot and instantly killed an ibex as it ran di- rectly above him, Its dead hody, accom- panied hy loose débris, fell toward him, passing within a few feet as he crouched om his narrow ledge, and then crashed on down for 2.000 feet more. It was only a matter of inches as tw whether or not the quarry would carry the hunter with it. THE END OF TIE TeALE, Early in April the two sections of the party, following converging. trails, sud- denly and somewhat unexpectedly came together on the Gandwa River, a Sew days! march from Gallabat, on the Sudan bor- der. It was a joyons meeting, with nmch good fellowship and rapid interchange of experiences: hut almost immedintely a Spell of some sort scemed to prevail, as each man reslized that a wonderfully in- teresting trip was virtually over. At Gallabat two English officers wel comed us cordially. and their efficient es tablishmemts. proclaimed that we were at the great world’s doar; yet we could scarcely believe it, Wires were sent to wives in Paris, and answers came back the next day. [1 didn’t seem possible, All that femained of Ethiopia was re CeRSEEI air shag tence ond seule faithfil men, A few days later automo hiles, ordered hy telephone, came from Gedaref and hore us and our bageage, for two blistering hot days, to Wad Medani, only a few hours by rail from Khartumy and a well-appointed tourist hotel,THE BALEARICS, ISLAND SISTERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN By Roy W. Baker Anmcan Conpox av Banctuana "TY 1S doubttul if there isin the world's ] geographic photograph album a fam- sy Eros whioee wiernbes stor ws E> le family resemblance as do those of the Fialearies, thet constellation of shining islands of the Mediterranean just off the cmaitland of Spai Majoren, the hig sister, so well known to the world,* sits im the center, radinntly beautiful, a trifle too beautiful, it seems— full-lipped and full-breasted, with a slightly: self-conscions smile and a. trace ‘of paint and rouge on. cheeks and Ii Minorca, slight and delicate, a country tmaiden beyond all doubt, yet with a grace that suggests a certain knowledge oi the world, sits at hor si EACH ISLAND REVEALS 17S FRHSONALITY AT ONCE TO THE TRAVELER While Majorca is manifestly a daughter tf Spain, Minorca's features and person partake of the north—a strange mixture of English and possibly a tittle Dutch with the Spanish. Well groomed and almost np-to-date, she looks-at the observer with a pleasant hut slightly reserved smile, and it is evident that she is a person of poise and self-respect. ‘On the big sister's other hand, Tviza, & cliarming peasant in bright apron, skirt and shaw!, hung with barbaric jewelry piques the interest of the genealogist, for in her a different strain, probably Arabic, seems to predominate. She gazes out of the picture with level, quiet eyes that are a bit mysterious ahd disconcerting. Her face is unsmiling, even slightly smudgy hint still pecutiarly attractive. At her feet Formentera Island, one of the two babies, almost Iviza's counterpart in free and dress, Tt seems tinkind to draw attention to inera, the other baby, crouched at Ma- irea's feet, for she isa spare, pathetic Tittle figure, maltreated since birth. In her plain {ace are to be read the signs of misery. + Sce “Recpinig House in Majorca" by Phothe Binncy Harmicn, in the Nartonat Grogearaic Manazina for April, sya Such are the sister islands, desert ers are the pleasantest of folk to ¥ simple - hearted, even=tempered, sober minded, hisnest, and kindly. ‘The welcurne accorded the traveler in: the Balearies differs according to the island. Majorca greets the stranger with casy familiarity, for she has known many tourists in the last few years; Minorca with quict grace; and Iviza shyly; ut the Warmth ef the welcome is never in doubt. Ask a passer-by to indicate the direction ty a store or hotel; you_will be escorted to the door and bowed in, and generally you must not offer anything more ma- terial than thanks in return. At Cindadela, Minorca, | strolled into the town's only men’s club in search of food, thinking ita café, and at the invita- tion of a member, who realized my mis- take, I stayed until 2 o'clock in the morn- ing talling with an interested and courte- group of the town's landed gentry, which is to principally proprietors of shoe factories. ‘Much of this-story was written in the Casino de Iviea, the club stpported by the men folk of the tiny capital of the island of Iviza, Reticent Iviza did not take me {o its heart as did Cindadela, tut T was made to feel entirely weleame. 1 suggested to the proprietor of the inn where T stayed that 1 he allowed t pay the clib dues (2 pesetas, or 33 cents, a month!), hut was told that any attempt. to pity thote than the ridicmlously snaall price of the good coffee and the other good things T consumed would be resented. At Mahon, Minorca, two cultured gen- tlemen, officials of the city, left their work to show me the things worth seeing, and to search for data for me. MAWON To ity ONE OF ITE INLAND SEA'S FINEST HARBORS ‘The Weal Balearic climate contributes chormously to the traveler's comfort, and, in contrast to, what one often experiencesTHE BALEARICS, 1S,AND SISTERS OP THE MEDITERRAS on the Continent, it was.a gratifying str- irise to find the jertdas, or inns, invariably cleat) and their meals wholesome, One of the outstanding deatures of the Ralearic group is the abundance and ex- cellence af its harbors. Mahon, the princi pal city of Minorca, is aa example, One's ship picks its way down a lang water lane, through pink and gray shores capped with rolling green, into what the Spanish Gov- ernment plans to make one of the finest harbors in the Mediterranean, Ever since Mago, the brother of Hanni~ tal, wintered in this harbor (which still bears his name, Portis Magonis. now cor- rupted to Mahon), it-has been famed as. a refuge for ships, and its asefutiess will be greatly increased when the Island of the Rats, a small knob ef Tock in the. cen ter of the basin, is removed. ‘Past the mins of San. Felipe Castle, th scene of many hard-fought hattles in} norca’s stormy , past the Island of the Rats, there ahead, on the highest and greenest crest, ane glimpses San An- tonio, the stat of the noble Vigo family. The islanders tell proudly how in 1798 Lord Nelson, during the war with France, came into. Mahim vith his sqtiadron, seized the mansion that overlooked ,the port where his ships rode, and installed the lovely Lady Hamilton, But the town's historians smile rather sadly and admit thar, while history is replete with incidents. ‘of Nelson's Vit does not bear out the story of Lady Hainilton, And then, Mahon! That is the way it comes. Suildenly, as the vessel rounds a ‘point, if bursrs into view, a quick splash of pink and white on the hillside, tier after tier of quaint streets, splendid in the sunshing (sée, also, Color Plate T), Mahan sparkles, as, dees the whole ‘stand, ft is n maze of spotless up-and- dewyn-kill streets of shining dolls’ hoses, and it is difficult to believe that this is a. part of Spain, where streets, if generally picturesqtie, are scldom or never clean. But therein lies hidden a tale. MAHON'S JOKE ON THE VISITOR From the steamer’s deck the town, ter rice upon terrace of white honses, with the spires of the inevitable churches comi- nating the mass, appears pure Spanish; bog that is just Mahon’s tittle joke an, the visitor, for many of the houses shaw Eng- ‘THE BALIARIC ISLANDS With tas square miles, the five Balearics Fave an area eqyual fo the land area of Delaware, ‘and a third mote inhabitants than that State. Tish features peering ont from under their Spanish sombreros, The impress of the English oceupations is still strong. An indchnable something suggestive of the English provincial town jected from the green doors, their shining brass fixtures and. squnre-paned windows with white woodwork, which, also contrary to the mile in Spain, for the amost part retnain unshuttered during the daytime. "This mixture of the English and Span- ish gives Mahin a character of its own, which is shared by its people. It is the women whe refuse to eanform. In con nerital Spain and in the other islands the take their places in the fields with the men and the beasts of burden, Not so with upstanding Miss Minorca! She believes that “woman's place is in the home” or possi a concession to the march of the times, in the: factory, but not in the field, and there she reftises to go, Quite as remarkable, the elparguta, the rope-soled canvas sandal of Spain and the rest of the Talearies, is practically ex- tinet here. Whether it is that Minarea, producing large proportion of the fine shoes sold in Spain, excludes this hun130, THE NATIC Al, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, of course. In Minot there are still st niwre than 200 talayots, te ue—stoine sb ly siypposed te have been used in eott nection with prehis toric eete mortinfs atid the Iarial of the lifts Within twenty mi tites’ walk of Mahon there i ly well pre truncated cone of huge ably 25 feet in heigl ak Su tania near hy minding the tala and marking an other age in Minorean tory. are the wills of a fort built prob: bly of the stones of the talayot The — strrounding fields are strewn with fragments of pottery from prohist con down throw Phanician, — Grecian, Roman, and Arabic vations, and the stane walls ove ich onc scrambles ch the: charmed spied with tents lal sly picked fr the fields by the ict The rembort rabbit skin, and a ‘ his palm with sputinn and rub nso ae ay inatrament ts played ‘mostly Tr ia alsa teed = an it bit of bi footwear frontn feeling of Tocat 7 farmers (see opposite piave) ever the reason, the fact remains that Qn my first afternoon ne Minorca wears shous companion, a Makin at ant | started aut in an antiquated ani s the wind-swept northern fishing ‘village of road ran. thro od to hills, med to the point ev « rich in histarie int of rare ward the coast in a. stice ‘kept, some gro outnitries ¢ les, chur! forts, ned wate r tly that they hecume y Minore: moderng, low, and siudden with ramiiic here and there, constituted a Tessa in. the Inrmoay 5_0f tine, ang curve. 1 have saict tht, we started ontt with F nells, a fishing vi our destination. ( day af tl the Fornells woulil have multaneous with of a small bet, bore into part iggest fish, we were told, the town had ever seen. It measured more than 16 feet from snout to tip of tail The whole town headed by the villa priest, had ga 2 the tiny quay” to ride at the morister, comgratiilate his tors, and ta spe for in all ty F AND SISTERS OF THE Photideanlh by ToT rect the Tike ¢ ROMAN VASI DROUCH'T UP IN THLE NET OF A DEE fish; its species SHERMAN OV TIES We Often the natives do not realize the value of soch finds and mary itt Wve found their! way into the homes of private inulividsal the fish into sizes con {ior transportation to the market int could not have heen sclecte at Mahim, ani chattering excitedly, ly the cavemen, ‘The cove is a wil . . winding gash in scene cove CAVES PROVIDE A THERILL roms the 1 tothe ‘The deepest thrill for the sca, Minorea is to be found in its The ap t the caves is along a caves. A talayot narrow | hy a matted scrub inspiring: sight wh growth and by fragments of the cove for, but it flect on the one of th am. of oone kriows years pve C: ne of the an shore many coves anid ce matic -s have become > the walls, which during the dislodged. and have crast At the water level these walls are high, and precipitous; the sea heats and ps at them and the place itself com Is awe. Wild deeds are plainly indi cated. Add, them, to if f @ forty blackae iim the water tine te the tops of the cliffs—all made by man when the human forehead was lower and human life more precarious than it is now. It is a meager imagination, indeed, that oes niat immediately: peuple the eove with small, aetive men, wide between the cheek-hanes and as agile as monkeys. We can conjure up the pictre and see them leaping among the crags 10 their berie homes, chattering and bickering and cer tainly ready to make it most unpleasant for foreign invaders such as oiitselves, J longed to explore each separate cave in the hope of finding some reminder af those dim times in the form of a crude weapon, titensil, or tool, such as 1 had seen in the collection of my companion, a recognized authority on the prehistaric remains; but we bad come unprepared to reach any but the lower recesses. Leather soles afford too insecure a footing to reach even those of the middle tier, while those high in the rock nust be approached from above by means of rope and tickle, he arches? took. of he typical cave dwelling is sufficiently. Infty ta pecmit a man’ of average height t stand upright beneath its highest pom, its embryonic colimns or supports extending from the walls at intervals, ‘These are lurge at the point of junettire with the ceiling and taper toward the floor, giving the m= pression of a partition dividing the cave ivi Into two or more chasnbers, In some caves there are bers and even indications that there were twa floors, Practically all these rock abodes had, two entrances. With a foe entering by one door, it was convenient to have an unobistruct ‘One of the sitprises of Minorca is the sudden change of character in the short vide along the motmtainous spite that connects Mahon with Cindadela at the western end of the island, One leaves Mahim spotless, white, Eng- Spanish in character, and anexpect- edly rolls into a Spanish-Moorish Ciuda- dela, somnolent in brilliant sunshine, satidy.in red. blue, pink, and preen houses, dusty and dry, slightly dewn-at the heel and not concerned abont it, with no very definite plan for the next moment ani nut anxious to mke one. [ts claims tw dis- finction are: Minorea's only cathedral, ome of the finest naus in the island, and half THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE a dozen house fronts anil street corners worthy to be set in platinum. The peaks of Majorca are plainly visi- ble across the channel, and when [sailed for Alendia in a toy steamer, there were a pony, of chickens, and filty sheep, ‘all protesting lottdly auainst the voyage, which was far from tranquil, In the eniission of horvemlous grins a sea- sick sheep has no competitor. PALMA 15 WELL AWaREt op ITS CHARMS: Palma, the principal city of Majotea, is stugly situated at the central point of a magnificent horsestwe hay. Lake all the other waters of these remarkable islands, the Bay of Palma could supply bali the colors OF an artist's palette, ‘The Jeft-hand prong of the horseshoe share, a5 one steams toward the city, was the Scene of the first fighting between Dem Jain L, the Conqueror. and the defendi floors in 1229 A. itis on this Prong that Palina's fashionable tourist section has sprung up, with stately Bellver Castle, built by Jaime I, overlooking it from the top of ‘a handsome wooded hill (see Color Plate (11), ‘The remains of the ald’ city wall, the Lonja, or Exchange, and the Cathedral, all architectural zems, are jiist ahead on the water front. and ftom the gaily colored bulk of the city project the spires of a number of churches, landmarks in history, Palma itself is a country village of 100,000 people and af considerable com= mercial importance. Some years ago. it awakened to the realization that it had natural endowments in the form of great scenic beauty, perfect climate, and his- torie interest that assured it-a place in the sun if propery exploited. It heard the clink of gold in the tourist's pocket and, tubing the sleep from its eyes; stepped forth to attract travelers, ‘This is-said in no spirit of disparage= ment; the island was horn to be opulent, as hundreds of thousands will testi Handsome hotels have sprung up; public service is furnished; roads are being im- proved; automobile registrations are well up in the thousands; there are cinenmis, theaters, and concerts, and Palma is even talking of a golf course, There are points of interest almostLiege Tine PORT GF WV pure-wiite builel= raph was mince 1¢ ishand of Iview wietropolis of mc Higgs shim: like: jewels in early morning bh © Nutlowal Geoxrayiie Society ALONG TH! This & a suburb af Mahe principal city of the island of Minorca.THE NATIONAL GEC APHIC MAGAZINE THE YORT OF POLLENSA NESTLES DENEATH CHALK irmnftig places on Mujeérca is thé a hat is burdereet by clit n places tower abrupt 1 Nationa MONUMENTS THAT SAW THE DAWN OF HISTORY Stara Ag stually Similar: in pects tn the pechi and, the iwiay of Minorca were peal fis (set nlso illustration payee 201 They’r aIC MAGAZINETHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ASUNSY VARMVARD NEAR MANNSPAIN'S ENCHANTED ISLESTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINi1 Archduke Ludwig IME RALRAKIC OLIVE TREES HAVE LIVEDTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINETHE BALEARICS, ISLAND SISTERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN without mimber in the city reminiscent of the Bplearies’ romantic listory—the Cathedral, Hellver Castle, the nurch of San Miguel; the Chnreh ot San Francisco, last resting place of Ra- mon Lull, successively page and courtier to Jaime TH, notorimis libertine, convert, student, writer um religion and stience, preacher, and finally martyr-and, next to the Conqueror King, the island's greatest idol (see, also, payes 178 and 252). Majorca is satwer-shaped, with the principal elevations thrown up armutid the edge and almost surrounding a broad cene tral plaid. On a motor towtr one passes mountains terraced from hase to ty for olives, almonds, and vineyards; through rich, flat farming country of alternating fields of grain-and garden: produce, more almonds and other fruit, principally or chards of olive trees, centuries old, grav and fantastically gnnrled_ Suich an orchard appears the final incarnation of all the erabbéd. contentions, crass-grained spirits af the world (see Color Plates X11, NUL, and XV). SAJORCA'S WHE pIst FoR TH EPIoURE Ti one has the fortine to fine a ti Spanish friend with a fined, or farm, the country, one may have the luck to taste cuca de sotveasnda fresh trom the oven. ‘This rural delicacy is a culinary achieve- ment. The Majorcan goodwite takes a round, shallow tin pan at least two and a half feet in diameter and spreads in it a thin layer of sweet bread dough, which she covers with sliced sweet peppers, the: green variety; then superimposes at fre~ qhent intervals hits of sobireasada (m= cooked pork sausage, mate a hirilliant ver- milion from paprika seasoning}. the size of Tare walnuts. ‘The plentiful layer af ar sprinkled on top melts in the baking, and there you have coca de sobrensada! Will 1 be believed if T avow that the traveler who happens in when this. con- fection is drawn from the big stone oven of the farmhouse and is invited to help himself is favored of the gods? It is my contention that he is. Majorean soup, a compound af bread and vegetables, served almost dry, i also worthy of serious consideration, but a coca of great Incal popularity, in which spinach and tiny fish, served in their nat- 199 ural state, ate substitmtéd for pers and Knesage, cannot be to American palates. CAMNEKA’S TRAGIC CHAPTER IN 1isTORY 1 had some difficulty. in locating the government mail boat that was to take me to Cabrera, a mere of volewnic rock of eight square miles that supports a population of 42 souls and fies three and one-half hours: of steaming to the south of Muajorea. 1 finally rliscowered the steamer The City of Palnw almost hidden in the riggity of the surromding sailing vessels, Now she carries fish, fishermeti, and a very occasional traveler between Palma and Cabrera, bur in the early eigh ics she was the Halian royal yaeht, Urania, as testified iy her ship's hell. She is a hit bedragyted and pitiful and has ceased to take herself seriously. There is no. tiresome insistence on Schedules: on being asked when we would leave Cabrera, the captain said: *Sefior, we are due to leave at 2 o'clock, tut when you are tired of looking at the mountains tell me and we will go.” Cabrera reveals a keen sense of the dra- matic. A most distal spot, she is” still completely in character with the rile as- signed to her during the Peninsular War. In 1808 Spain took thousands of Free prisoners at the Battle of Bailén, TI were held on the mainland until cholera broke ont and they became a mennee. More than 4,500 unfortunates were placed on Cabrera. The outcome was trightful "There wis much distress at honie; Spain could not feed her own shjects, such less Prisoners. Set down on that trarren rock seithout food or shelter, 2,000 Frerichinen perished. Evet now Cabrera oreasionally knows hunger, when storms prevent the former royal yacht from bringing supplies. Only three winters ago Christmas was far from merry, for the iskd was storm-bowtid for 23 days, ‘The Government was on the point of sending a warship with food, when the waves abated and the islanilers were able to appease. their appe= tites again, In the fime of the Barhary pirates a fort erowned the sheer tock nf great height which overlooks the beautiful har- hor. [twas built to prevent the seizure of Cabrera asa hase of operations for theYH BALEARICS, ISLAND SISTEI consaits against the other islands. “Phe ruins lend interest tu the skyline. Onily a scrub geowth clothes the mour~ tains of Cabrera, and besides the ruins of the frowning fart two slatternly houses anil a tiny’ deserted chapel, in sight {rom the boat landing, complete the desolate scene; so I was happy whee | could an- nonce that E had hind my fill of the mown tains and we cast off ahenil of schedutle, “oritmuene Td switernitagt” 45 tres’s MOMANTIC TRADITION When the name of Iviza is mentianed. the otter istauds shake their heads an yok volumes.” It is insimusted that this island sister ix not all that she shotild be. T hastened to seek the explanation far the apparent libel. ‘wo factors are involved in the slander. ‘The first is the seriousness with which the islanders take their love affairs, Years ago it was the custom for eligible maidens td apportion their time among their vari- ous admirers, ‘Thus, x popular damsel might divide an evening into ceveral pe tiods, each suitor being allowed a definite number of minutes in which to plead his cause, [f one overstayetl his time—and what more matural?—he wax Tikely tw have to answer for the theft of minutes that were the property of the next om the callinye ist. ‘These disptes were fre- quently settled with the aid of knives or pistols, Tviza ti longer punctuates: Her love- making with pistol shots, bit there is a remnant of the old spirit in a custom that still obtains, called “stealmg the sweet heart.” TE a young man'y wut is opposed. by the piarents of his sweetheart, he se lects a tnarried couple of undoubted stand- ing andl respectability, to whomy the situa- tian is explained. Aceamymntied by ane or eth of tis necormeacdating friends, the young man now goes ti his beloved: jhome ate “steals her. She is taken ta the home of the abetters of the theft, where she stays until the ohdurate quirénts con- sent to the marriage. ‘What else can they do?" laughed my informant, spreading his hands and chatck- ling at the picture af Cupid's enemies thus foiled. Apparently it never accurs to irate fathers in Iviza forcibly to steal thelr danghters back again, Tris easy to believe this story of “stea OF THE MEDITERRA: iy the sweetheart” when one looks at the cat faces, the calm eyes, and tight bys of Iviza's men. lyiza charges that jealous Majorca. fearful that some of the profitable steeam of tourist traffic may be diverted front her familiat shores, bas d the gos- sip that Iviea is hard and illfavored. ‘This explanation is interesting principally hecause it shows how all of the Baleari lave their eyes fixed on the tourist. They even talk in Formentera, little more that a hare rock and a couple of sand dunes of the possibility of attracting visitors IWIQA IN PESTIVE ATTIRE We atrived in bviea during ite most important week in muny years. "Phe gor erior of the [vlearics was malsing one of his periodic visits of inspect vastly more important, the archbishopric hair, vacant fut 76 years, was filled dur ing our siay, ‘The latter event brought to “the capital rs of all classes, ete attire. from every corner uf the island. Spanish regional costume is making one of its last stands in Fyiza and Formentera. Thie, there are to he seen a few bob haired dainsels in short skirts, bur the majority of the women still wear the Fyizati (ines (see Color Plates V snd XT). ‘The Sunday or dress-tip costume con sists of a gay plaited skirt long enoush to touch the ground, tinder which ane worn a fumber ui other starched skirts that give it almnst the circumference Of the ald- fashioned ectinatine; a gaudy shawl en: velops the shautlders, and aver the heb is worn a kerchief of still anotiber calor. d ferent shades of yellow being most in favor. ‘The hinir is purted, jrilled tack tightly, and worn down the tack ia plait tict! with a bright-colored ribbon, Usually the haie arcimd the forehead is arranged in a veries af small curis as mechanically per- fect in construction as the spirals nf an old-fashioned bedspring. "The feet are incased in alpargatas (see, niso, text, page 179), which turn up at the toe. but they are almost hidden thy the lang, voliminous skirt which sways as. the wearer walks aud gives her the appearance of progressing by a series of tiadulations, A double riw at lange. glotular gilt buttons, worn on the sleeves from the cutis nearly tn the shoulders,jew the next oldest wouARCHEOLOGY, THE MIRROR OF THE AGES Our Debt to the Humble Carchemish Delvers in the Ruins at and at Ur By C. Leoxarp WooLtey Tnneeror ov qare Joret Exresrrave on Tine Bartadte Musitat ann rite Univexsry ae PExNsveyasia To MaaokoradtLe TELD archeology is-a science with muny sides. ‘The visitor to atv archeological ex- hibition sees only the objects and knows siethinge of the way in which they were got out of the groimd or of the various processes through which the gene before they were fit yo be put in a glass case. ‘The reader of an archeulogical report cmonst fired it hard’ 1 realize on whut a mass of detail, sometimes intangible detail, cack conelusion is Tqased and how much manoal labor went to its makiny Neitlicr the oné nor the other thinks at all of the multifarions jobs whieh oceupy nosmall part of the field worker's time— the organization of the expedition, the purchasing of stores, the choice at tools, the photography, the medical care af the men, the accounts and pay sheets, even the question of language. TIE Maw WITH THE PICK IS TITE ACTITAL, DYSCOWER ER 1 have often been asker whether 1 do all the digging with my own hands, and the duestioner has heen surprised to learn that | employ anywhere from a hundred to three trained men, Perhaps we archevlogizts:are ourselves to bhime, atid in our anxiety to tell of our results have failed to do justice to the laborers who work for us; but on them iitist depend in) mo stad] degree the st cess of ur extavations, However careful may be the supervi- sion, it is, after all, the man with the pick Or spade who actually discovers the tlk of the objects concealed in the earth; # he is stupid ar chimsy. the object may he overlooked or broken; if he is dishonest, it may never come to the sight of the archeologist directing. the work; and if lic be simply indifferent, thinking only his day’s wage atid not at all of the inter- a7 ests of the dig, he may Why itreparable damage to the science OF archeology, re- moving before they have been nated re- mains whose association is. of prime im partance, destruying floor lev i ex throtwgh mid brick walls, ubliterating th evidence on which history ought to have been built up. It is essential, therefore, not only: to train the gang to careful and skillful labor, but w waken their intelligence atid, to inspire thenr with a vertain degree of interest in the work itself, at least to make cach responsible man prow af doing the thing as it onght to be done. ‘This is the justification of the “hak- sheesh" system, whereby a man receives, over and above bis wage, a reward for everything he finds. ‘To find a thing does give a sense feturship. ond the re- ward recognizes this psychological fact anal so encourages honesty ; it insures care, for an object broken ly the workman brings in no baksheesb, and it cats be ex- tended to cover good work as well as good discoveries, ‘The archeologist has. hi scientific satisfacti success, the iwort ‘of 3 more ma terial sort, but springing from the same so. that there is a feeling of fair Play. But the haksheesh alone is not enowh, It is cXential to really good work, but it will not by itself assure it; there must exist in the gang some more altruistic mio- tive if they are to do their very best, andl this accounts for the difference whieh in my experience makes the Arab so mu hetter a digger than, the Egyptian. The latter never seems able to tise above the niere moriey consideration; the Arab adds to this a fatural intelligence, a genuine loyalty to the people he likes, and-a sense of humor. ‘A great deal rust depend qn the native foreman, the link between the alies. em208 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE crand the men, 1 was ky enonh at Carche mish tw inherit from hh the ideal Mohammed ik HOW FAMOUDE MECASIE 4 POREMAS Hogarth lad ir with him Gregori, he Cypirinte Greek famous archeologists in the East, a foreman of more than fifty year: tailings, who had dug in Cyprus and at Knasy Sphesus, Smyma, ‘and Liypt ri, eftrolling ig. called in as a none tao willing rect Hamoudi, strong anil ooking, with a watchs ig the men at work, stm= moned Elaroudl and mid him Arab foreman, ‘Th other mem were {irioy the "Turkish in ot fess angey be~ ¢ choice atl been reference to 1 be had there of se e-0f%” on the new foren pay. So for a time were and cabals which Hamaudi's life a burden nid) even induced him to th had the Turk remover, ani Hamoudis astonished at getting such support, held to bis joe and ¢ than made good. He was devoted to Gregari and profited eagerly by the old man's experien izing that a goodon210 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE In excavat nt donr and prarch Babs a: ach aril th parts of many: Ww tt page FIGUIES FROM HITTITE PALACE WALLS 2ugi. Tn the zig).ARCHEOLOGY tHE mar ought te he able to read and write, be attended the village schoo! held by the local sheik, disregarding the mockery of the ¥il- lagers and of the srnall boys with whom he sat mn; above all, he nized the mear~ ing and the value of honesty, MAN IN A ) MONEYCOMUED: Ht COMRUPTIE tion, A thority depends for worth on, the oppor- post of m tunities it gives making money hy bri ery and extortion, and while the judge or th governor of a province deals in large the ordinary of a labor paid to put a man of the work, paid a per- of his w to keep him on, paid to let him absent him- self without the ab: sence figuring on the muster-roll; and, since 4 he looks for his profits to those under him, he mnst needs humor them and wink:-at-«lncke ness d work. Hameudi has never taken a peniry from ve, and this almost unique virtue has him a reputation which has rennin any not oF gone ascendancy 1 part respect anil partly on gemtine affection, which puts him in a class hy himself, hie start over the met, by practical side; but possibilities of his pesiti as grimly determined to of them, With fim as j rand Gregori as chiet, | was vided; my only English assistant c the ior fore: MIRROR OF KURD PICKMAN W HIVTITE FINDS EVER DISCOVE THE AGES Photograph by Ma UNRATED ONE il worked for one Lawrence," whi als season under Hogarth. MEDIATION AND JU Carchemish wa: country, where eve a law to himself, and the peaceful occu- pation of the archeologist was likely to he interrupted rudely at any moment.t Once the village sheik came hurriedly to the dig and, drawing Lawrence aside, begyed him to put one Yasin ibn Hussein into a place f safety.as in a few minutes two brother: IN CARCHEMISIE days a wild or less, > Ate {te win fame, during the World War for his work in organizing the Arabs forTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE,ARC! also workmen « would be aiter his life, Yasin was taken up 1 our house and there was he at the two brothers, Kuté fmd-a sister, and that morning befure com ing wo work had dis- cussed the prospect of marrying her to some sititable parti, After they had leit the honse the girl lind flung her- self on the ground in front of her mother and declared that she would marry Yasin or the part « who ought not to have y preference at all, was more thin st ficient warrant for killing the man—in fact. that was the only way to wipe out th stain on the family honor; and indeed within ten minntes the ardish brother's, duly informed hy a zealous friend of whet had happened, were look r Yasin, revolver us to ace on the work, but in this case edd no easy task, gotiations ed on spasmodi- for tl to be wholly irregular. called in and agreed with us that he had together with ht to intervene, bu ited to do so he confirmed one jude half of th otted to the brothers as.a punishment for Lawrence to put somethi no ri AE i wrongiul appeal | their word and re- ancient city we had of a cash settlement, statue of a god seated t have the i which w EOLOGY, THE MIRROR OF THE AGES. Froorngrarat iy © Leqnars Wotie HS HITTITE INNUSTILL HAD POWER To STRIKE TREROK TO THE MEN WHO DU He js the God of Thunder," th tok! the Arb workers, it or mote care. Even the «fonbters hitened into ennviction, th night w suddenty ect off a fashlight. to get a phot ie superstitions pep fowa on the Bapheates near the site of rage 314), id even then the By the gate ef one of the palaces of the ound a blick stone on Fons. When earthed the lions were intact, but Inv an the pavement in fragments, had spent some time fixing the ment. Searcely had the squat and brutal figure been completed then the sky clouded and a shower began. Fearing for the still wet cement, 1 told gover the statue netion of both declared The sheik was since he w 10 protect it,THIS #uaGMe picked out from the heay 's Clothes the richest cloak that hb i] see and, coming solemmly forwar raped it with emony rotitid th shoulders of the pod. Lawrence gathered whnt was in the 's minds and, since he conkd never the chante of a practical joke, told ly true, version of the ‘Thunder God c 1 of the Atamians) anid ad- STAPLES Fo FRE SUTRRUMARG POWERS! vised tthen tn keep a. eatooneon aes doi Ne WITTITE “yiNaT at ght once the men were on the alert. — No villager cared to pass actass the Fromm the eiutset the uneasy abour this j had tise cirth, Hf the English, jaid it such respect, surely i thing more than a block of stone. felt a little bi haunted ground, one would ta of the dared at such a time to come’ down into ymiich, the excavated area where stoud the seul) wreck stones; hut that right watchers safe distance were horrified to seeOLOGY, THE MIRKOR OF T Pe f t re togeayti bv C Testi OUT To MEKT THE viCTERIOUS ROVAL FAMILY OF CAR same. sla: Tete howe le royal children are repines vind leucine @ imal at the cits heal A i it see, also, page 210 flashes of | playing round the pit wherein the God The fact with its hac that it weet we had decid Jesper i the ight,” he said, “1 shall write to God about it.” Lasked how neraph it, the letter would be-sent. “Fasily eno hi “You need only and here we plirates; it would ger was Set 1, kenawin ding rly. snece awrence had trim Tsuggested that Haj Wahid was i the superhuman powers of the lax Mohamnnedan and could scarcely ex~ Hittite “jini.” answer, In the iT T never plague Allah with AE ANSWER CO SE when he gets my fetter he wi How eredulous c pt that it is he glad be shown bh eas he was before dj about that previous told in all something for my etal fnctotum, Tt Naturally Task ronearly three occasion, and th on tt faith, aj Wahid was in the Aleppo jail, con ned to fifteen years’ imprisonment f murder. He had ‘served about two yea nt seul now his patience w vend. He chafed at the inj tient, so isp mitted, bat, in his opin was bitter winter weeks the sn) wht suffered, but the meal den rd and forward B foo, car nw. trickled 4 rs and caked on his dishes, loose DlainedD CLAY TABLET EXCAVATED ON THLE ‘unless well packed, may: bre ficult ty obtain. official permit theet these problems, ar: wet bluttiny paper, of stly to shi from, the the anci iin! rested to" pip. This wet material simmer, aril aper-palp hae jiues back home he government prcitided tha food venial, it ran cometh h t. the Just, the Merci aj Wabid, blessing and peace,Phutentranh by C. Lamarand Wa HIS LEDGER OF A WEAVING FACTORY 18 MORE THAN 4.000; YRAKS (LID In the days whew Ur of the Chald operated 4 weaving factory ay a, side giving the namtes of the Women weaver: ‘of wool issued to eich, and the amount of drawn up by the temple storekveper at sapply depot. These reenrds date from After my salutations, know that 1 hive been two years in this gaol and)can endure ao longer: [shall go mad or | shall die; therefore of Your mercy release 1 that at ones, [suffer injustice am is no man to help me. T take refuge in the-merey. of God.” Haj Wahid duly inked his thumb aed seu his mark at the foot of the letter; it was sealeil and addressed, and on his in- structions the friend carried if out and threw it into the Kuweik, the little stream that waters Aleppo. ‘Some three days lnter'a police sergeant entered the prison yard and called for Haj Wahid, He was led out and taken to the room of some governmentt 1, who, after satisfying himself as to his identity, informed tim that te was free. With- out any further questions being © Was a thriving ‘city sine to religion, the amount oth manufacturcdl, ‘The smaller tnblety m ‘voucher for the om Bh, C the temple of Dublal-Makh The large tablet i+ x month's accomnt, of rationy allotted to: them, the quastit receipts wince of stores Frum the temple or reasons given, the prison doors were opened and the Hnj walked out and went home: Naturally he believed t worked the mirich. Site then he Tad not troubled Heaven, lat now the cold threatened his life and he was prepared to repeat the experiment. As it happenied, however, that night the frost hroke and the next morning was ani sitmiy; so when the Haj » hreakiast we chaffed hint en this letter had warm brought there being no need for his letter. Me winked. “( g." said he. “The threat was enough." EXCITESIENT RISES To FRENZY Wott IMPORTANT FINDS ARE -UNEARTIIED ‘There was no lack of small ohjects ot Carehemish, espectatly when we were ig-218 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE Phiotogeayih hy Wide W) i SKYSCRAIKE, TILE TEMPLE OF TINE MOON GON: (SEE, Me THR AU .uppesring le the city the finest things were the inscribed and sculptured stones which formed friezes along. the sla limestone position { the mee Ean. ‘They Ie war af capation + showed up f es of Fevol yi scavery. the itmber of the site, In eave disappeared greet sichARCHEOLOGY, shats being in strict to the importance af the stor f the sculpture would ever afterwards be known the name of its finder —“Mus mpha's bolls" “the lion of Hassan Ibrahim” — and the pride of Gwnership and the éredit of so many shots in his honor was for the pickmean am extra incentive to good wi HAMount's TRIUAIHT OF catirse, it required no skill to find a Tit stone; skill came in rather with the trace ing of mud brick walls Inrried in mid brick debris, and at this werk our men. hecame wonder fully: adept leginning, Hamoudi specialized this ranch, while Gregori i with the stones, the shift z-of gre in blocks that and the 1 Rom the encumbered site: setting tip of fallen Hittite slabs; but Hamondt was fear in all the time, andl [think that the proudest moment af his life came in 1920, when the old Greek was: no longer at Carchemish, 1 asked him if he could put up in place a stone frim the Soath Gate. It was not a very thick slab, hot it was some fifteen feet long anid seven feet high; it Jay fallom im the rniedway, and had to he moved for a little distance; then lifted onto the top of a low wall and aligned exactly with the wall face ‘Our steel tripod and pulley bad already rae hnekled miler its weight, and two stout the ment available for the task; but Mae contd doit if only: 1 would keep away, for if watched he 1 w nervous an kill some T gave him the eight men he asked for and te- fired, thotzh not so far that [ could not Keep an eye on what went on amotncli rset! the the Greek had jaugtit hims yertle leverage, now at this point, now ab that; a small stone here to THE MIRROR OF TE AGES 210 Pe agli CoLevmant Weotiey e010 0 op we (Ske PAGE act as a pivot, ah there ne and as little farce as might be, but the 's own weight turned to account, so that it seemed to shift and bit itself. In twenty-two minutes the block was in posi- tion’ on the wall and the eight men sat down to smoke page 212). One them, a sea lawyer and a horn rebel ‘inst authority, turned to the foreman AWAllah!" he said. “Dy God, Ha motidi, to-day for the first time 1 de. not ret Gregori.” Apart from the seulptured slabs whi were th striking ston q ne af the most made ina house between theARCHEOLOGY, THE MIRKOR OF THE AGES old eatth ramparts; dating from) soon after goa0 Is, C,, and the stone walls which hal inelosed the new residential quarters, added in the prosperous days of the Late Hittice Empire, perhaps abimt (000 B.C. hie cutting mule for the Baghrlad Raal~ way had exposed a wall of finely trimmed limestane blocks. Starting from the edge of the eutting, we saon brought to light the ruins af a farge private house, a build= ing whose ground plan was not utilike that of a modern suburban villa, evn to the detail of the front door’ with its roofed porch, approached. hy a flight of stone steps (see illustration, page 210). ‘TH StoRY OF TWO NATIONS 1S READ Ly THE OF A VILLA Tt was clear from the outser thar the 1 to the last days of the to the time when, accord- ing to the writers af the Old Testament, Pharaoh Necho, King of Egypt, went up. to -Carchemish, whieh is beside Euphrates, 10 do luttle with Nebuchadnezzar, and was defeated there in. Gag B,C. As work went on inside the house, proof came in a drantatic fashion, ‘The floor was covered with a thick layer of ashes, and in the ashes lay Timndred= of bronze arrowheads, lance-points, and frag- ments of hraken swords, ‘The weapons were most numerous near the doors of the rooms, and here, in the thresholds, one would find the arrowheads beat by the force with which they had struck the stone jambs or the metal binding of the doors, Evidently « desperate fight had heen waged from room! te roam, the de fenders gradually weakening, until st last the house hil heen fired over their heads. ‘Then other objects. turned up to throw Fight upon the causes of the strigssle. rst there was 4 clay tablet written iti Assyrian and giving instrnetions for the cenllecting af taxes on various imports; i dated from shortly before 6ro B.C. and witnessed the vassalage of Carchemish to the Assyrian king. Then came lironze figures of gods and one bronze which, though it rep- resented Osiris, was manifestly a local copy of an Egyptian original; this could only mean the spread of Egyptian influ ence into Assyrian territory, A bronze ting with the cartotche of Psammetielms, the father of Necho, carried ns a ei further—a definite intrigme with Pharaoh zat must have been going on tor a generatici: at least before the final battle, ‘Then, hardened by the fire which had destroyed the papyrixs roll to which they had been attached, there were clay seals impressed with the name of Necho him- self, and the whole story lay befure us, from when disloyalty first mised its head to the day when Phirach marched. north to the support of the rebéls, and Nebn- Jhadnezaar, as heir to the Assyrian Em- pire, made good bis claim by fire and sword, One object still awaited explanation. Among the weapons were the fragments ‘of a broken shiekl covered with a thin plate of lromze decorated with repousst designs (see illustration, paye 214). In the center was a Crorgan's head, and round this, in concentric circles, ramning aninsals, horses and days, deer and rabbits, What was remarkable was that the style was neither Egyptian nor Mesopotamian, bist Greek, the work of a craftsman in some Innian city, sneh as Ephesus or Smyrna. nd how did this come to Carehemish? Suddenly’ | remembered that Herodotus, deserihing Apollo's Temple at Branchidze, near Ephesns, mentions offerings dedi- Gated there from the spoils of Gaza, in southern Palestine, ly Necho, who, like his father, made use of Ionian mercenaries in bis army. ‘The capture of Caza took piece in the campaign before the hatte of Carchemish, and the shield mst have: Helonged tone of those Greek "Free Companions.” who. died far from heme, hy the waters of Euphrates. Sp in one Hittite house the: Greek his- torian and the Hebrew prophet mer to- gether. and we could see Carchemish in its s, like Jerisilem, wavering be- ypt anid Assyria, leaning at last tipon the hroken reed of the i came the crash of arms, flames | rafters, and the stillness of a de MIDNIGTET ROMBERY TRAUGUNATED Tie WORK AT UR Compared 10 Carchemish, Up has prove a pencefil enough spot, though it did not appene so nt the beginning, Chm the sec- ond night of our first season there our camp of tents, pitched close to. the old town wall, was raided. We were unarmed, The trilal sheik: had provided guards, bit bad sent them without. rifles. hoping ta Muff us intoARCHEOLOGY, THE MIRROR OF THE AGE ssupplying them’ so when, at tuiduight, half a dozen men from the wall mounds emptied their magazines into the tents we thd dew riot hi It was humiliating to stand by and watch the toblers make their way under the canvas, yelling, "Bug! buy!" (Steal, steal !), and emerge with our stitenses. It was only after they had gone that 1 found the attack had been more serious than Thad supposed. and that one of the guards had heen Killed, Standing: im the full moonlight, he had called cat, “know you!" and. to avoid detection one of the thieves had shot him through the chest. Actually it was the stupidest thing he could have done, for the dead man was a cousin af the sheik, and therefore it be- came the duty of the whole tribe to avenge the murder. ‘Things got too hot for the robbers, who at last Ming themselves on the mercy of the sheik, “That astute man compounded for the murder of his kinsman according 16 triad custom, receiving a goodly stim vy, and then handed the six over to the police for robbing Englishmen, an ‘offense with which the trilal court was not competent to deal. In the end I recovered my clothes, not aouch the worse for bemy Iiiried. three days in the sand, and Sidney Smith his gramophone, though that they had pulled apart, thinking it a money-hox; and so salutary was the lesson that we have never sitive had any trouble, In this part of Iraq the Arabs are too poor to have quite the independence of spirit which characterized our Carchemish: gang, but they are goud fellows, with a sufficient sense af dignity, intelligent, and excellent workers. amoudi established his astendanc over them from the vtitset, but the teac ing of them was hard work, He wonkd himeelf lay bare a face of mud rick and then, haut the entrenchment tool over to the head nf the Tittle working gang, would tell him te follow ap the wall. “What is'a_wall?” “A wall? What isa wall? Is the man mad? Acwall like thi e that of any house built with bricks. Are. there not bricks? Is not this a brick, and that >" “What is a brick? And the men really did not know, for living in a mat shelter or, at hest, in a hovel of reels and daub, they had never ‘85 come serose brickc or proper walls, “nor sould they recognize the simplest thing that lay outside the narrow circle of their experience, For a lot tinte a photograph wonld puzzle them completely, and they could not tell whether it represented a building ora man, so ubused were they to pictures of any sort. “HAD TO MEND MY WIFE'S TROUSERS,” SAVS TARDY WORK SEAN Perhaps for this very reason, that the whole thing was unintelligible, they were not surprised that my wile should make the drawings of the objects. What did surprise them was that she, a woman, mew how to sew, for with them that is a man’s prereyative, and | have bad a late- comer to the work excuse himself with the plea that he had stopped at home to mend his wife's trousers! A visitor one day asked two small girls who were loitering near the house whether they had ever been to-schoal, They de- nied it almost indignantly, and then, as if up in arm for the credit of their sex, added with pride, “But the lady can both read and write. ot ane of the men they knew could do as much. When first we went to Carchemish the villagers there had no mensure of time shorter than a day, and no measttee of di tance more accurate than the number of Helles a nein might smoke while walk- confronted with the task of counting up ta double figures, start on his fingers. and when those avere exhausted solemnly sit down, take off his ne the stm_on his toes, ff at all, more sophisticated, and yet out of sich had stalled diggers to be made. For a month or more Hameondi went to bed each night with a splitting head- ache, Wut he newer lest heart or temper. He would eneamrage and cajole, mock and curse (but the curses always eimled in langhter), drive the stupid to work tll they dropped, ane mark down the more teachable and spend infinite patience om their instryction. Once, when.some waxed insolent, he endured it till the luncheon hour, ard then challenved the stromest to a friendly wrestling bout, and in less than a minnte had flung him insensible to the ground. He would fine the slack, hut they sion found out that the fines did not go into hisIC MAGAZIN DORA ATEMPLE KITCHEN OF AnRATIAS'S TL Wher the ater! at A Parskttr was exe show iw, itn the its cqusivalent Was axed, Arab work ound) is a well atl Water tank; at the lett a nun ak lu-the fite ick the choppity extre lotget Lo guste watee: fro the picture must De own pocket, and thar ne pers hip secnred aman from pinuishiment ; 9 respected him the more. Ln a marvel- en the ¢hanece sly. short time we Had a whieh a foundat posit the we could he proud: and which ond eww foundation level without d of i “Vou ean thank the English for anything, and 1 was about to eal this \ Hare them, when the w of another 2 “You were wild be s. and now you are atid intervened, | friend A gang had been i inickwork of the « 146 he sail, “for you re not men.” weit first consid- quite ec, Three years ago the haksheesh I fotind the with the copper state Allah ji ur aenmner as this, Wut 1 with measured 1! nice two walls; their employers mt a some of it was so much and so mic f there ud 1 the keenness that they slienw; hut there is, is a: hox he crest in what they are than you | doing Tren The more intelli out comrse.”” he rey mory. “OF es, hetween think cannot remember al] ses of the Objects they dig these. lite . recognize some of the com- We ha sor door sock ple Gig-Par from the time ofARCHEOLOGY UNEARTHING mar PA PRET ESTOME @ hard soil were aves of 1a Imbesited a the met tof anges, to grmid corn in the que meat on the brick .chopy draw water from the well, sot oitishingly well preserved that wet t fires in the old cooking the camera; cut up worked out on paper in the drawing office k, and In the early day i the dig we could at we = scarcely atte this, because not enotuh might photograph the scene knawn about the architecture of an- was when the temple yet stood (see jl {Sumer arrant the restoyttion trnti ya 4) of buildings whereof fttle more an the The ex had heew made and the ground plan w but now evidence ordered to fall ont when from one has accrued them there came acry of dis y. His not the least nto pour water from a clay vessel into the cistern, and at the moment when the snap was taken be had not appearatice of hov ito pour, ‘The photograph, he | nructi fot with nsually such hive sto he sources, antl any work ysrt of scattered clues inal piecing tr dd working ont from them the ort or temple. He GRAVEYARD OF A VANISIIED tested, must he taken again. We jtim that it did not greatly matter; prob CIVILIZATION ably the water would not woin any To our Arabs the fini ff by any peal tect's lelighted to se ut the Hel Vie bad erty i of Abraham, case; but he was not to be such specions rease he correct and it 9 work unless we repeated the photograph. Nebi Khalil, whose I is no use to upset ideals, and we were their tradition, was obliged to rezroup the men and make an- at Ur other expe ving due warning, so Now the temples and the houses are that the water might he poured in time! sorry ruins, most ef them shronded be- cts Ti avthing in the ma neath mv It is not oftTRUS TIEN tin taki: table the temple of Diu are ard) shard: ff Only lt or Muilt by King Ur-Nammo iy hind: years before Abraham was born still lifts ts huge bulk sixty feet i the air and dominates this graveyard of a vanished civilization {pages 2 Our busine ck the Hi was, and already, after five work, we can do much Lt would be eusy. did space allow, to de rile here the reat tower as it it its with the gorgeous proces: Muon Cad's priest nits triple stain reeset te Lcrowned i unworthy the Tower of Babel whieh was'at Babylon, the counterpart of Ur-Nammui at Ur; easy to picture the the g reat that of is tow scusunis and eat court at the tower's foot, to wi Lire their tithes and offering ‘ods. the eys laden, with with jars of ail and cheeses, f sheep) and goats ample servants. wei raped woot hates, the seribts niottr their tablets of formal receipts to th mij) clay: andl bran clamoring pe A CLAY, rom uneler the Ww Photograph by Lennard Wot TANLET POUND AT UK floor vt ts per ina tio ec, also, illus We coil oh to the note ie and to watch ritual of their ministering pr while issued rath deseribe how men lived in Abel time. in twoestoried) hick houses with wooden gulleries and private chapels for domestic wor: We could go hack another ilred years, #0 3500 B.C, and tell of the exequisit rked treasures silver, shell and lapis la. ligst known graves of Mesopotami: ve reorientated our ideas of the le ginnings of civilization. But here 1 have preferred to deal less with the results of excavation th ore ef its pects, the tna ath: thy acters and. fc Arabs who at Carchemish and fewark of archeology Ur The story of the past which they have helped would fill volumes; they themselves deserve at least these few pages:A WOMAN’S WINTER ON SPITSBERGEN By Marria Priturs Gusos Hi, opportunity to winter on Spitshergen does not Knock ‘ar everyone's door, nor would many. people open the door if it did; but when the chance came to me ta spend the long ‘Arctic night om that barren island 1 grasped it with huth bands, so to speak, Enowmye it was one of the experiences 1 memorivs, [had accompanied my husband) from ‘Amerien with the idea of spenting the sununer on Spitsbergen ‘and return home alone fate in the fall. Bar as the days wore on and the light nights began to darken, and Nature stood out so clear, with no frippeties of life to slistract one's attentian from her, [ realived what a won derinl opportunity I had to stay and! see what the long. dark Arctic night was like. ‘The stories of the Eskimos t i their ice huts and luening whale oil and wearing furs all through the long winter months had always interester! me; but they sounded more like fairy stories that accounts of real fife. Now. here was my chance to canal, or even outdo, the Eski> nas. ‘The only: people living the year round on Spitsbergen are those employed hy the different mining concerns, those who op- erate the witcless station maintained hy the Norwegian Government, and am ocea- sional trapper or fisherman MAGHG METURES OF MOUS AND WATER Twn thirds of West Spitshergen's: (the forgest island in the archipelaya) 15,405 squire miles is iee-vovered! thromghiout th year. Tlere are Howers and mosses i Sheltered sections, hut no: trees or shrub growths of any kind, so that the landstape Is a cold and inhospitable appearances PATS, ICR, Init the monntains-an glaciers and water combine to make @ series of miagie pie tites, As we neared our destination after a fivedlay yoyaye in a small boat built for the Aretic waters, [ wis struck by the grandear of the scenery, Owing 10 the Cleartess of the atmosphere. we cevald see great distances, ani] Gur first glimpse of the iskyni Gime when we were matiy: miles Lofty mountains with snow-covered nd glaciers between, all touched with briffiant eanlight, rose out of the water. ‘The mountains were x deep bhie and the snow ich a pure white that it was (az ain This was Spitshorgen.at the top of the world. feckind anid Alaska were far 10 the south of ws. Most of Greenland and HI the cold countries I hmd ever heard of were south of tis, We were 78° N., anid the North Pole only 12° away. What kind of country was this and how did people live on stich a place [twas the third of Angust anil the sim was high in the heavens diving the full 24 hours. af the day. Cold as | wits, fotnd it Hand to go below; wanted te stand up deck and grise at Spitshergen. SAILING POLEWARD IN A WOODEN THM The trip up. from Nocway tad heen a heed one and 1 was ready for a hoe hath, a soft bed, and all the comforts of a normal! Tite. | felt they were due me. We were aboard an unpretentions craft, She was woowletr sind built for the Arctic and jee conditions. ‘The sharp-nosed steel boats aire very dangerous in the ice, as they are far more fikely ta he damaged than ween vessuls, 1 shall never forget my and horror when’ | first twnishment w the boat oa from Norway to Spitsbergen. My husband took me down fo the dock in ‘Troms3 and, pointing to a small wooden tub ef 160 fons, saw “Phere she is3 we are to sail on Monday Ltook a Jook at the little heat, bobhtig ind rolling at anchur in the harbor, and then looked around_at the rest of the ship= ping. Seeing nothing that looked hig and soli] sind strome enotigh to travel almast to the North Pole in, Lrsked him where the real est w “AVhat Laset [told him T tmeéant the boat on whieh wwe were tosail, He answered, “Wik pointed her ont to yx.” ‘Then it dawned on me, there, 1 just 1 had thoughtTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZ! ume || A Star OF SHITSRERGEN witle maarneriue staal (right) shows its yeographical relation rouml. The ti prominently of late in news items, coast of North East Land, near Cape stroggled! and suffer ie tnbuepitable od polar, geograph sored] an mish st b Longyear City, where the authot wintered i lib the disister 40 the Italian dirigitle Audis off the Smith smipealiy tachailes Hor ami was nearly killed! by bout 360 miles from Nocway, consists ni five targe islands, a total ai yprtle bergen's permanent population iv small, bur some-af its coabeniaing od suave miles. ‘The smaller map re Shits amps ure inhabited the year The archipelago Ino fuetred Many names of note, many: nations, nil rnp as a hase, t0 increase oar knawleilge Nelsan, heto of Tralalmr, who ‘wear. -Admoxt 100 years latur the reindeer of the Nordenskfuld party. with which it hoped ta advance toivard the Pole in sledzes, escaped in i mowsiorm, ‘The ait heroes itichidle the Mle fat by airs Wellman (see page 242). Byrd and 1 nator af polar explorati: worth, and Twas I at the ship's tender! So that was the Fsfjord, on which L was to sail away from friendly: Norway and up the Arcti T had another aboard. Th shock) when T went Isfjord had a small deck aft The railing did not reach to my waist, “Very dangerous in rough weather,” | thought. ‘The dock was littered with stuff peculiar to a boat of her type. A’short Jadder led to the hat deck; no railing on that deck; just the rigging and the Hifcboats swag out in their cits he- 1 Andree. the Ari tween me and the ocenn. ‘There was not aleck chair anywhere on the boat, My hushand bath told me 1 wontd find to comforts aboard, bet | hail not thought things coukt he quite so tad. In after as | hecame hardened to travel in etic, it had no terrors for me—only of horror. We stepped line ke ont ‘the aft deck and entered the tiny saloon by way of four or five narrow, ladlerlike sepa. Our cabin,A WOMAN'S W ER ON SPITSBERGEN ayo The cabin w i narrow, with at the opening out direct line with the nan at the Ww re was urtainy, ‘iately hunted up two tacks and, tying a tring across, used a piece of paper for a etirtain. We looked in ain for any te commmordations w u ame, atid then knew for a certainty that to were me The rolti He boars hie, ‘There were fo nay berth, 11 cov thle Norw The third day ou Vhad to iy ancl turn this boat would px The sunlight or all that ioe was bli ta dkirk spot on the jfted an ing. ‘There wa horizon. When theATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGA tw cam erved untains were would pull the curGRAPHIC MAGAZIN! City is the only ene of a winter months, when there are no tails or fre i, ib Fiver: boats, yachts. culliers, and ‘other erat britig visitors und iliside are the ts for the aériak niway (ree pape i Mies PHA THE AUTHOR OVERWINTERED ON ADVENT DAYA WOMAN'S WINTER ON SPITSBERGEN rey Phmerapl by Martha PBAMip wencosm tome} at the hrown monntains acr peaceful hay and comfort myself hy think img. “AI th ngemess will soon wear off, and this view will hecome.as familiar as the one 1 Jeft behind ime in beautiful New England.” My hushand and f were the only Amer= icans at the camp, All the ather members of the staff were Norwegians, bist most of them could speak English, ‘There. were no women, [1 L were to hive companinn= ship at all, it must be that of men. Twas very young, just twenty, and tad never heen so far away from home be- fore. | had not known the man te whem T was now married eight months.ago, It was all very strange. Even Nature was strange, with her 24 hours of daylight. Bist youth is adaptable and 1 soon hewan to feel as if 1 had always lived on Spits bergen. Some of the miners liad their wives and children with them, but they were mostly of the pensant type and did not speak a wort of English, The camp consisted of a. staff hotse, hospital, «ffice, small four-room hungalow where we lived, store and warchonse, and che Ray after a pr pon. Usee, alse plage 243) ecting expedition. Phutistrayh quarters for the men. ‘All these bildiuggs were strung out ina narrow Valley be- tween fwe mountains which terminated in two giaciers a short distance above the camp. COAL MINED IN WINTER 1S SHIPPED IN SUSI MEK * ‘The powerhouse and large warehouses were turer the dock, abut a mile from camp, and the ecal minte was in the maun- ain hack af the camp, Operntions were carticd ott all winter and the coal comveyedd hy aérial tramway from the tite and stored in a large sick pile near the dock for shipment the following summer. Ou entire winter colony numbered about persons (see page 239) Spitsbergen has a very short summer season, when oper! water can lie expected During July, August, and September loading of ecalhonts goes on continnonsty. Some years ico conditions are Very. un- favorable, Seasons have been known when no ships entered the mys until Angust, and the last boats ont should leave hy the first of October, when the dark season is beginning. After that they rim the risk 2THE NATIONAL GEO GRAPHIC MAGAZINE Se . op Maha Hull Ca A BUST TION STANTS OUT AT 4o" MELOW ERO Before excessive slaughter hegan to rence the game i trappers obtained huge bass. In i906, four years before the gin which went north (rom Troms, stuffed thelr holds with pelts of 296 polar bears, 135 anal 4,000 pitsbergen, the bamters and war high-water ‘Mt stoops | fram, 13 white whales and the SKIING PN MELTIN LAND OF PRINCE CHART Although this Tony, thunelerow is n by every ship gatme to Spitsher cted until the early ¥ the aot century, whitn a sponsorship of the Prince of ‘Monaco, mapped it i. detail broken in the south by the largest plain im Spitsbergen, with-an arca of more than 35 squareA WOMAN'S WINTE! Maritime insurance yt , 20 i 1s tip Ott the lay -strews toa heaten eros of wood, Tk was a tacle and ome it did ne good to renre many pon, as | owas already « to iF the air rwinter myself, nil while walking On August 23 the sun dipped below the « eomfortalle hort After that we hid whien vin sh the at anal re as | er; but they. be lqwever, the latter tind) before Wa for larken and hy September 20. we were using lights for 6 o'clock snow fell early in Sey tember; it would melt from the valley ground during the day, b a places tains. Each her d The strsets were mary for hours. ‘The snowcl monn unin (see py Frost is snow stays wer t ins were suffused Se light, while we in the bhve tivilight ed to a spot where One day Tw ters had heen buriec2a6 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAG) ‘Mhorogracis by Ceear Matlin SEALS ON PLO ICE OFF TIE COAST Once seal Berds were numersius dS, meat has a strani, tsherger, but they hive been rublessty Thele fishy tote, wshich makes it unpleasant to some pala io B, Wiloe AT LONGVEAR CITY Here a foorsfoot seam of Tertiary. coal Hes at goo feet abowe sea level, am thee Billede, with a wire ropeway eantecting the mine with a Toading jetty in the bay (see, also, illustration, page, 3iy)- This i the largest of the mining canips (306, also, page 228).idnight stan. ape a1 from Norway: 4 1. hedroont, ith a dint ind kitchen: a ot baer. POR RAT. WATE cht T hae reached Paradise when avy. that duathtinh, | tion ford it ta be a day's work things ready fora hath. ‘The tuh aldron were the « In the sun ied water by the pailful fram at the back of the house, filled . built a fire under it, and e water was hot cdl it into J filled the tub. athe my inter, when the water stply cakes. of ice, we filled the ic wilt the fir melted the A thes 1 the water, When I the winte nce my desire to spend nite a hit af d 1 women ON SPITSBERGEN winteritig were « vale w the lack of i niry; bat | would mi oor exerci: fresh and would have mc ushand and. the members of th world yomat hs. were the reasons wey tay goin om the a the side of my overw through t them te frozen in on Spitsbe eather the iruits cori, fi staf Inst aterin| and cemld not suffer from its and vege e used to a heavy diet i t a heir and ther We20‘gf MUON a basi idaA WOMAN'S WINTER ON SPITSRERGES ‘The hours of darkness were increasing rapidly and we had very: litte daylight, with no sim at all by the first of October- just twilight—and w very depressing light it was, bard on the nerves. One looked in vain for a sunrise that would not come for several months, In the meantime it would yet darker and darker, tintil con Hinuous night settled down, Cine felt as if alight black cap were being pulled slowly over one’s head, ‘The last boat left for Norway eatly in Oetgher, She liscame frozen in the ice, hut after two days af hard work on the part of her crew, and by dynamiting the ice, she finally broke through and steamed siway For the south. She carried with her onr farewell letters to loved ones back home. We did not sleep very well that night, wondering if we had made a fool- hardy mistake in staying behind. The weather was really culd now, with strony winds blowing most of the time. The wind is the worst feature on Spits- bergen, A still, cold day, with the tem- perature 50° Fakirenheit below zero, is not so dangerotts xs a windy day with a much higher: temperature. When it is around 30° below and the wind blowing, look out for frostbite! We stttled down to a long winter: played cards, read, and sevied ; sewed. read, and played cards. I spent as much time as possible aver cooking anil house- work, but the former was limited, owing to a lack of things to cook. We bad no eggs, but nsec egy powder; there were no fresh fruits or vegetables, not even Tematts. ‘My hishand atid 1 suffered more from the lack of green things to eat than we did from the cold. We had a few ald copies of an American weekly magazine and | would fairly weep over the colored advertisements for oranges, celery, salads, and so forth, THE SURTHORN LIGHTS SHARE OUT JITEIR: COLORS The northern lights were magnificent. ‘We saw them first early in November: ‘They were like a giamt handful of differ- ent-colored chiffon scarfs being shaker across the sky, As ench one changed and position it changed color, dark season was mpon ns now, but When the moon was in the heavens we had a inion the full 24 hours. The scenery was indescribable during these times. The snow on the mountains sparkled as if the heights were miaid with diamonds, and the sky was a deep blue, full of mystery. ‘The moonlight was so bright one could al- most see to read aut of doors. We tools ome very sticcessful pictures by moon- light. The view from onr front door faced across the bay, There was not a sign of life to be seen-—just cold, brilliant, frosty, snow-covered totntains when the moc shone. At other times everything was binck. CIRISTMAS CHEM POR LONELY AMERICANS At Christmas time we were in the mid- die of the dark seAson, without even: the moonlight to brighten things up, It was a very dark time inside os well as out, with no holly or greenery or anything af the sort to give a holiday aspect to ottt homes not even a red apple to lend its note of colin. We realized that Christmas would have ta he a mental state with us that year, with no outward means of expressing our- selves, T found it hard to conceal my keen dis- appaintinent in not receiving a wireless message from home. | learned long after- ward that my parents had tried in vain to send us Christmas greetings, bit owing toa misunderstanding on the part of seme ong the message would not be accepted for Spitsbergen, Christmas Tive found us making 2 heroic effort to be cheerful, We were at dinner when we heard the front door apen and something drop a the floor, Foot- steps hirrried away before we could reach the living room to see who was there, but lying om the floor was an envelope ad- dressed ta “Mrs. and Sir Gilson.” Opening it we found a souvenir folder of Duluth, seta, showing the coal and iron ore decks. “Written on it in New- wegian were “Good wishes for the seas son,” and the name of ome of the mit a. Finkinder, who had been in the Ut States several years before and had worked at the loading docks in Duluth, ‘That he prized that folder there is no doubt, else fe would not have had-it with him on Spitsbergen. But he knew we24 THE NATION AMERICA Ir SECOND ATTE Valter Wellman, pole ot Sp TF we Sears Ia his dirigible he dragy d faraway from home that big-heartei Fin sof cheering us on all times to be away from “Christmas gift” and, wl we bad proof that the Christma it alive and in the air Ul as A that settlement near little ne top ta, ha other than moonlight It was ax dark at 12 o'clock 145 at 12 o'clock midnight There was deal of wind. Regu gales would: blow Three days in, sti co. Daring that time it was almost impossi Me to keep warm, The stoves would red hot a1 tities of the heat w wn up the The frost w ofan inch thick on chi in the im. The fits snow would sift in through the double windows and gusts « id wottld actually ards from the we sat laying iit th table At times like that the National Ge we felt small and es Tetum, art ther serpent” — ourselve i temnd start, would all ito the nay at the toe n the fo These were dumpe houses, We Tr fi a. A® it kettles and heated Dn he sumA WOMAN'S WINTER ON SPITSBERGEN 243 to the camp fron the glacier. On January 19 I stepped out of the door at noon, and there, to the south, was a nar= row, fnint, pinkish light on the harizon, Oh, the joy of it! it lasted but a few nutes, bat it3 prom was great — the eoming of daylight! Each day after that we would see the light { a longer time. It stead ily grew stronger, and by the last r we cuuld distinguish objects in a room for a few acount the mi The sunrise is a long awn-out affair ns far north as Spitshergen. WHEN THR SUN BE TURNS—A_ GLC a With the coming ylight we beg Jeep better, the dark 1 one finds it very difficult to sleep, Itseens strang hut is true, One wou think it might be t ther way, and that people wou hibert Perhaps we 10, but could nor, We were surprised to note th thaw on Spitsbergen, We bs days of warm rain, w On clear days; wher: the 3 weeds, and when climbing ‘Te cas nocessary tit g during a steep ct group is January eng," can truthfully: be said of V several gen, We had our coldest weuthe n all the snow light season came on, the therm er changed it often showing 50° below zero. turned the whole camp into a skating rink, Te was very dangerous walking and dark- ness addled to the about. and it seeme would LONG NIGHT BRINGS PALE By the middle of Febs see the reflection of the stn on the tops the mountains, It was a glorious sight They looked so warm. and colocfnt high rere up in the air, all bathed in that beautiful they sunlight, while we were cold and. da surrounded hy dowit in the valley. But we were gradu~ ing more light each day. By t ruary we turned ott the efs ag the “main” tho looked like lightning In so. much vast 3 “As the days lengthen, the cold strength-‘RAPHIC MAGAZINE Tear hy OMe Haha AN JeiBrRG chistes FROM TH GLActER Hert wNTH Lee roKD This, thie tatwest ford inh itr some places 20 miles wide. It is the chief mineral-easing rocks and lsd, throtigl ity turerouy abljoit y water into. the Heart af the island. Lotugyear:City:is on A fords, permits a cut Ray, a branch of tee Fined, tric lights for a comple of hours in the on the e the long dark sense middle of the . One of the men on the s neatly lost Flow awful we logked! We were a his sight through eyestrain, Le hind tv and sickish yellow color. It sit ina reom for mahy days with his her a shock to glance itt the mirror by eyes hamdaged (see, also, page 24). it, We were bleached! ont anid dlemd- With the coming of the light season the looking. But Twas tot the only hideous dogs were trainéd to pull the sleds, one at the camp. We resembled a colony day saw th r going hy th of corp Norman, the man wha was trai 1 saw the sun for the first time that pups, was running uhead of the team, on Marelt a. With so dew dark ob- ¢ pups were following along in sae nay thought he cauld n-arutmid behind and st one's eves, the light good order that Ni rest, so he m unt which to ig. Some of us had to w es whenever we went for a hopped on the sled. As he did so every one of the pups copied their muste is difficult for one accustomed to five there sat the driver and nine husky pups ing among trees and houses to realize just all in a row on the long'sked! ‘They were cof sunlight is like Jarge pups, with very thick fur and on an unbroken expanse of snow. There nd were awkward tr reme. was not a dark object anywhere on the ‘The men went on skiing and hunting landscape, except the few huildings-in tions. ‘The first fresh meat brought camp. Whi is away from camp it is up was eaten with relish, Rein- essary to rest one’s eyes amt plentiful and the meat is very athes af one’s companions. reed oi the men hunted seal. T ‘This strony sunlight is especially hard did not care for ity as it has a strong, what the terrific 0A WOMAN'S WINTER ON SPITSPERCEN 245 ACOAL MINE ON THE EAST SIDE OF ADvIiN'T HAY tof Spitsherigen's coal deposits i aay, Init they re 000 ons, ‘This te mostly the Carbs type, but the Teetiary, & ble kind, is et in enn Some of the seams are eight The long, cruel winter-is hard om jo ane) motion pictures now ting anxious weather was v The ig ne cold perstinial new: mand melt ny, hy ttt antl snow cat, ‘The first of June I took’a ride on the On ww snow melting in dog sled. The ice in the bay showed no the sun. It was the first sign of spring signs of breaking wp, and looked as if it and aw sight, ‘The birds were would be there forever: We took several twittering sun shining. It se oid to be alive, We were getting very Tew hors of darkness now. ‘The sunsets were wanderi color remaitiig in the sky for tw oF more id the. midl- iy the end of April we t lorie walks in night sun again. the time, which nied pictures ot midnight. I loved the light nts andl ala aking pictures It gave me a theill of pleasure Ladmit | often felt izing 1 hind come shergen THE MEMORANER PAY WIEN THE BOAT FROM HOt AINIVED the evenings to hel began to. dre the k seam ne quickly, but # At the beginning of June t months of March, Ap d May were of conversation throughout the carp w cach an eternity in Te It was too when the first boat would arrive. Some arly to bein to look for al boat fram of the men even went so far as to draw iH talked out, worn ertde-sketches of the company steamer and rayed out, It tack them on the wal ins. In d time for everyone. The only i communication we had with the outside world was by wircless, and all were get-3 THE NATIONAL GROGR ING EN : he men that bei af omotio' . liringing with eyes of men, t poor 1c apples, eyes, and young, wome It was a 1 remembere even if the latest news was two n huasy © again, old. Some of the letters had heen written night. The stimmor s the previins Sept Hic More conversation The e st we had Seen in and long, of an why nit ing more and more hours out of doors. | a: took all my favorite walks again tions we that year; the fe at my heloved views te lid not leave the | 1 ts. Th sof them in my diary. 1} d not 1 te the wntil that I would return to Spit July 21, Whata wonderful sight ste was! bergen if ever the nity presente It hail heen nine monihs since any of us itself “call was itt had seena boat. It wa. these me: INDEX FOR JANUARY. UNE, 1924, VOLUME READY Index for Volume LIM anuary-June, 1928) of the National Geographic Magazine will be mailed to members upon request.NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION nUILDINGS SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST. WASHINGTON, D.C. SROSURNOR, Mesiest 5. Secretary JOHN JOV EDxO! FREDERICK V,COVILLIE, Chairman Comanittes oul Weteaich JOHN OLIVEM LA GORCE, vice Presidem GEO. WNUPCHISON, Ammciute Socretarr HERBERT A POOLE. Asinant Treaurer EDWIN P_GROSVENOR, Gonerat Counsel EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THI NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE GILBERT GROSVENOR, evitor JONN OLIVER LA GORCH Amstdabe Editor ALPE AL Gi “t i J ML TULDEGHAND Chie d Scot Service FRANKLIN L. FISHER AVES (Chief GE Tisistratiots Lisi BOARD OP TRUSTEES CHARLES J. MIELE . ‘Prosiicnt Americoh Security and Teust Company JORES JON BOOS ‘Chiudinan, ei tiara, Wate tug Bosak Tia Ch a JOHN}. PERSIA Guneral, of the Viniiad “States GRANT SQUIRES DAVID FarRcHiLD ‘Miley ie tn chines sree oa ware CHART Mn Member Sires 0.2 AUSTIN ‘seit icton GEORGE RL rUTSAM Camnivisaney Ae igh bis (CM CHESTER ERRIAM tional | (eadceay tanviy Bot servacary Hares of FREPERICE V.C a us GEORGE SHINEAS, 40 ne Farmeniy Meriber Um, esac Faso Naturale iidetaine Phouoera pier LESTER joes Disectie Us Comat ani Gere Meike Sushey JOUN OLIVER LA Asmaciate Buiter ral ae Se 3, HOWARD come THRODORE.W. OWES aor of The Evening Star (tral Minganine WILLIAM HOWARD TART ‘Chief Justice cf th of States f Armley the JOHN BARTON PAVNE Chalrmy Americas Hed Crim ACW, GREELY ‘ele, Retin, Myler Genet GILBEKT GkosvENOR Eakior of National Generate EORGE OTIS SMITE Dinectue US Geoladeal Zarvey L-TITTMANN Vonmerir Suoeiktendent tl. 8 Cit ed Covdetse Sarwey JOIN FOOTE, at. D, Profesor ol Teulbatrlen, Ceditsee tearm Uilversiey STEPHEN T MATHER Director Notional Path Sersice a en Division, ee York 3 Ruel Ute OVIELE. bi Diewarimesit aif GORE ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GkoGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” TO carry out the phirposes for which it was foumcied forty wears ago the National Geos Taube Sundety Wulohes thie Mazasiae AM heciute Sie tevestad (0 dhe Manas full cr exbended Greet {promot grograihe kowsielge. ARTICLES Far Sevpecouupaniea by toler IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption ‘of the worlt's largest rater, Mt. Kat Sunk Sathoal faovranble Sicy qurt katte exces "her Fllrwed a Hrsietoury seiralte data treetne elven, tr tee moc Hertha Today um, caahidy weer of the werd won cree ate ee Nulley i Pon Thos Er ptt tena) Wturest oy eevedarutlon AT aii expense of over $50,080 The ‘Society rent a notable: series of expeditions into Pera fe denice the traces of the Inca race, Thain iscrreres fans. Marge haze ol oun Licredge of Eiviieation ‘waning whey Piparrw rot set fon He Perk, Society alto uid the honor of sub: sctibing a substantial stim to the expedition of Nima Crary, whe limevered the North Pete. NOT tong ago The Society, granted $25,000, fare in addition $75,000 was gist by Ine supe lot the puree we Ge ‘est Othe enh sree trees uf Cshtorma ha ae ine fhe Ameicns enile THE Society is conducting extensive exnlara- tings and excavations in northwestern New esis whlch wat on tf hy eae deal. ented a ia" Nurihy America Viele “Cotumine crme Shere orebin ore feapes vel fr viet ermaminal Helin wy, of solar radi- 5 ae iiprestatad a auc iter ional Geoerashie ‘entered at the Pst Cftier at Warhingunn D. ial rity if Postage provided for in See NOR, Act vf ctober 24017. auebortand uly 1. 18tR, ety, Washinaniny DC. te ated State sai Gear li n SecanfeC tone Sli State AccessTIFFANY & CO. JEWELERS SUVERSMITHS STATIONERS PEARL NECKLACES and Pearls for improving Necklaces MAIL INquirtes RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION Het AVENUE & 37" STREET New YORKWHEN it comes to style in motor cars—and today style isall-impertant—all the world looks to Body by Fisher. For Fisher is the authority, the leader, tried and proven; the chief source and center of beauty ia motorcar design. Caidillsc « BerSslle + Mick « Cskiimat - Obiwahile ~ Poadiae - Chevynletginow “Let Your Pup be Furnace Man” ~and add a useful room to your house RYANT Automatic Gas Heating aot only ends the temper-trying routine of tending furnace —it materi- aliy enlarges the useful space in your home. Because Bryant Hearing needs no coal-and-kindling or other storage space; because it is dustless, soorless and ashk the old-fashioned basement can be quickly and etsily transformed into # cheerful playroom for the children, a cozy den, a delightful room for entertaining, a spotlessly clean clothes drier, or a workshop. And with a Bryant downstairs no dirt is ever tracked upstairs. All winter Jong the Bryant heated home enjoys the healthful comfort of abundance, uniform warmth with no more effort or attention than the winding of a good 8- day clock, Temperatures gre automatically maintained within a single degree; the entire house is easier to keep clean and stays clean longer, and the basement becomes a livable part of the home. ‘This luxurious heating service is well within the means of most home owners. Any of our 37 local offices will gladly have an expert gas heating engineer give you a dependable estimate of the cost for yoxr home. Just ‘phone your local Bryant office, if one is listed in your telephone directory, or write to us at Cleveland. THE BRYANT HEATER & MFG, COMP, Cale Aveaue CLIVELAND, OHIONOW—your choice of TWO Bell x Howell Filmo Cameras jor making your travel movies ITH either of the two: beautiful Rell & Howell Filmo: wetas shown here in living action, Bring your travels home, exictly as you sce them. mo 70 is the original automatic camera for making personal motion Priced at $180, with case, it practically every feature of éision and adaptabil Bell & Howell studio camet shown in the It amateur movie camera obtain Standard among amateur movie n: over, Wa 100. pra s with whi ch movies h for them on beard ship. The new Filmo 75 is a pocket-sized, model offer mL in precision, adaprabalic of operation the utmost obtainable at it price, $120 wi its beauty it any price, handling cameras and sup rs the world developing and rerun postpaid, ready ta show in your Filmo Proj See a nearby dealer—or mark and mail this TLE COL, 1817 Larchmane Awe, Chia Hl BELL & HOWELL Boao lower arrying case. Its jewel-like in Watch-thin™ compared with all others, Readily fits a eort pock nd operated easily in one h y interchange of Your choice of Watnut Brown, Silver Birch. Ideal and sports use, Ebony Bi for travel, Already a ied h Filmo cameras use E: im (16 men.) in the le at cally all First cost covers rat home or anywhere. descriptive booklet air (B Hes Ll} abe 0ELGIN . svTvteo ny Agsks, Premer, Jexsv [ie eResr covremmns: AREISIENSE WATCH modern, unmistakably Freneh, Fe in Fart mosiorne .THE ROE DE LA PAIS Maris for designe und new the miracu nts are exquisitely sheathed in chic So today your EICEX PAISHENNE hogs ly (With A moat intriguing place uypom ye o point ithe time to you timelines: to everyone: And begs to join your hat and your handhay, (rock and lower, hoes and alingle, we the perfect nent is the final hioaubletouehthatem- a entire stuurtness ws ui amation point arcentaa sentence. Made b Rue de la Paix! Presented ata price born of rr efficieney, great volume mice 5. dreaded by the 1 Teka any Maher Ta aFRIGIDAIRE THE CHOLCE OF THE MAJORITY Crystal ice cubes... always ready . .. with Frigidaire, the Automatic Refrigerator, No need to use ice sparingly, No fear of running short. For Frigidaire freezes a fresh supply between meals. Makes frozen salads, too ... or iced desserts that please warm-weather appetites. And keeps foods fresh and wholesome... even though you're away from home for days. Enjoy the benefits of Frigidaire refrigeration now. A few dollars down and easy monthly payments put any mod in your home. Get Frigidaire prices before you buy. Frigidaire Corporation, Dayton, Ohio > fF BLL Col AMIE REE * Se pkonvet oF oencnnt wotonsACK AR D THE MAN woo ON & Pp-you trust your life to your tires. THE DAYTON RUBBER MFG.CO, Dayton, Ohio auyton a TABILIZED ye? BALLOONS Dayton Thorobired Tubes famous ev mover use, bution of your friencl addition, the Pon: scart of your other floor Ir giv SCRAPE and REFINISH YOUR FLOORS yourself ‘This amazing Jittle machine does all the heavy work—serapes: sand papers, refinishes—them keeps nu forever after—costs but a fraction af one refinishing job. never could be ovat the We have bi toxerveyou. Upon request, demonstration in your awa har branch, what it does reminder, and your aot you an answer promptly. Nor only thar—hus they ine takes care of A few minutes acea al abaan LN Flace Machin Tino. pausing anything you have write for acompleted i lirtle machine, andRaymond-Wh Round Afr ¢ Ise Land «Memberships are Free inThe LITERARY GuILbD! LOTRRARY G! sé Filth Are New CityThe One Camera for such pictures GRAFLEX reat spurt af magnificent action aes athousandthefsecsonds then gone forever, Graflex...the one camera for “difficult” pictures— with it they cease to be difficult. Graflex is the one camera which shows the action in the finder exactly as on the negative, and all guess work is eliminated in the focusing, « << «6 here's a Graflex priced within oeverybody «+s Girmiler3 4 up 11000 second—300, Orbor models 885 to 8873 Fentured by 0 Goad Dealer Everywhere morial uw broad, plain surf omament, you m uired, the: sculptor ces requested fr sh Weite forbookle: to Choose a Memorial’ RO CKor AGES ‘THE DISTINCTIVE BARRE GRANITE BARRE VERMONT Mentiot! the Gaographie—tt idamtities you.ay 7 (, brspoken © hihutes EVER SINCE GIRLHOOD to the chaun of het Lustrous teeth CLEANVIA AIR! Wuew a shipping clerk tosses a new stencil to his t and says casually, “Mark that one forthe Air!” 2. , WwW frenaie asks’ h - waukee by the next afternoon, and the ing clerk says calmly, ‘That's. all ut em in the Air!’ .. n the General Sales Manager dd clerk a ly phones the routing samples to N whe can ge right, sir; we'll W! pleetic en the Chief Engineer turns apo- a telegram from Dallas saying the power plant must shut down until a small part can be sent from the fictory, and his secretary promptly sugg “Why don't we send one tonight by Air Malt?) oa. Then you will know that Aviation is But that an accepted tool of industry! time has already comef Far these hurie ble portents are ‘everyeday occurrences in the routine of successful business! Since speed is the determining factor competition for nation-wide markets, all g cial houses, are looki at industries, all great commer- ¢ to the airplane for swifter transport bf men and ways are welledefined routes in active and contin: Only the ed well be- ries of mast cities keeps us use, fact that airports are static yond the bounds the average business man from actually seeing what is being done with cor mercial pl On the line that operates between New York - Chicago - Dallas there is aplane speeding on its way with impor- tant commercial loads every hour of the year, The Air Mail is gi rvite to. a trade area of 62,300,000 people every 24hours. Over a period of three years, flying regularly from Detroit to Chi- go, Cleveland and Buffalo, Ford planes have maintained an operating efficiency of 95 per cent—a record not exceeded by the railroads! Figured on a time basis, the transcon- linental airlines have already reduced the railroad map of the United States to the dimensions af aregian the size of Texast How can this fact be applied prac tically in business ? A. Milwaukee manufacturer recently sold a cargo of locks in the New York market. By shipping vie air, a thousand miles away, he put his locks down in New York as fast as his competitors could have delivered them from, New England, . . . Shippers of oil from California to the Atlantic Coast save thousands of dollars in interest by for- warding Bills of Ladingviaair. . . . In March last a consignment of flowers was flown to New York, so that they might arrive with the bloom of Cali- fornia fresh upon them. . . . Bankers are regularly saving anywhere between $125 and $5000 monthly on distant ex- changes by sending their documents via air... And the weight of freight and mail earried over the airlines of America already sotals millions of pounds! The time has passed for whimsical speculation! The time has passed for the micaningless thrills of spectacular flying! ‘The tircless wings of commercial planes are as definitely at your service as the wheels of commercial trucks. Far more than @ million miles the Ford all-metal, trimotored planes have al- ready flown, carrying freight, mail and passengers! FORD MOTOR COMPANYACH meme distinct a heed not You executed i ful granite Cheage Studi punDeas aun BI) OD D § wes D, MASS, KEENE, N. HL GRANITE COMPANY NY CREEK, ON YORK CITY ZEISS BINOCULARS Suitable Investments Whatever your investment requirements may be, Si W. STRAUS & CO. can meet them, Our current offerings include bonds of every type— rail: utilities, municipals, industri- als, foreign bonds, and building bonds, yielding from about 4 to 7%, Write today for litera- ture, explaining your require- ments briefly, and ask for BOOKLET H-1808 S.AW.STRAUS & CO. When choosiaga binocular, riminuting as ng friend —for that's exactly whac be just as d in selecting a lifes your Zeiss is going to be. There's # theill in spotting: distant views, beyond the range of unaided eyes Examine w Zeist at aut dealer's, Write far tale RL ZEISS, +s coMilk~the Builder ONE A quart of milk a day, in some form, ehould eae eu < be the tule for every growing chid. A few ENERGY FOOD children have a real or imagined aversion to milk. — 3 But the doctor may find that they cam take it ein Chicken ANY OPTHESE © re and enjoy it if served as cocoa or in soups, 0 ip sauces, custards, puddings, or frozen desserts, Encourage your boys and girls to: appreciate milk. Make thein understand that for most people it is the finest allaround food in the world, Tell them. what it will do for their bodies, Children love games, Teach them the game of body-building, Protein “bricks” for strong muscles; lime “bricks” for bunes and teeth; milk sugat “bricks” and fat “bricks” for energy and warmth, Not only is milk» builder—it is a repairer, as well. That is why it is important thar adults also should have a regular supply—not 20 much ' chil but a ghiss ar two a day of the e y equivalent amount served with other foods Milk is a eat help to men and women who = ronment bsby’s eves open upon’ Want to keep strong, vigorous and youthful. ROM ie ee ae baby's eves ober NRO" But remember that milk has 99 much food value nod that will build a sturdy body. d tw, the diet a provides milk for his nee of other foods tm: in right proportion all the many kinds required in the. business of Body-building, Throughout babyhood and youth the elements contained in mille are essential ta sound growth, ‘ip Bestitann Om Rack of these foods han ity ow talus. ‘The compar enly for “e ue the property wl sereugth and poicer 10 carry om us aitinties that when a smuller quantity be sufficient. ik regularly is the surest way of making certain give your body the variety od materials it needs to ke you in good physical condition, Give milk to: the children and— take it yoursell. minérals from which the bones made, elements which produce tierowah comes from the dangers hich ful oe mith: inepraperte caret Gnewered ot wih int ou apherhee of not dairy where yecey cl hoon tncih to keep the enith inatione—Heons the tne of sliver. ey of the great alien aig the ae es ry ieee mite lout ne His HALEY FISKE, President. Published by ea METROPOLITAN LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY~NEW YORK Biggest in the World, More Assets, More Policyholders, More Insurance in force, More new fnatnance euch ear Mention the Geageapbit—Tt Ueneifien yw"GAINST the background of £X sonasel speces ad soetablllg Whitoun's Chocolates stand our— a part of every summer picture, Consider the Bonnybrook Pack- age. Milk Chocolates, assorted to suit the ctitical taste of the out- of-doors gith and the sportsman. Ar the selected stotes thar spe ialize in serving Whitman's in per- fect condition. Look for the Whitman Agency Sign Pure and healthful as Nature's sunshine!HOME AND ABROAD— -the soup of world-wide reputation! ree ‘At every food store in the United States— in every seaport throughout the world —Giinphell’s Tomato Soup isknown,likedand purchased. The demand for delicious quality and flavor knows no barriers of race or of distance. Two delightful ways to prepare ic —as Cream of Tomato Soup or as Tomato Pure, See easy dircetions on the label. Ready for the table in a few minutes, 20 Campbell's Soups also listed oneach label, 12 cents a can. Loos rot rie RenanbWhirre Lanna WITH THE MEAL OR ASA MEAL SOUP BELONGS IN THE DAILY DIETWhat is due the publicYou willsee this man in Europe if noe this particular man, then some of his colleagues, similarly dre ‘The American Express hus st dozens of them at prineipal European ports, depors and frontier points to help you with your travel problems, Away from home, such matters as foreign languages, hotels, tickers and time-rables puzele you, bur they are simple details to these travel experts, A hint about trains, 4 helpful hand with baggage, or some other travel service no maner how large or small are all a patt of their daily life and duty ‘The valuable assistance of chese repre. sentatives is partof the Helpful Hand of Serv- ice which is opened to you when you pur chase American Express Travelers Cheques in. addition to being an automatic intro- duction to this unig the sky-blue American Express Travelers Che your money against loss or spendability has been firmly estab 2e$ protect Their ed by almost cwo gencrations of public use and of the world-wide American n, ‘ the pre Expre orga Issued in denominations of $10, $20, $50 and $100 Cast 75¢ for each $100 For sale at 22,000 Banks, American Express and American Railway Express ofhees ask for the where sole able everipihere | SP AMERICAN EXPRESS Travelers Cheques fi ALL, AMERICAN EX ARI BLUEi. representin: most remarkable . achievement in e tire buildingCHRYSLER NTIRELY NEW STYLE CREATIONS IN — THE FINE CAR FIELD — “Wteree >. cimevsirn and visaso- ciateshaveheld from the firstthat,con- stantly to extend its leadership, Chry- sler must periodically create new modes which would proclaim them- selves, almost tipon sight, as over- whelmingly more attractive. _ The two entirely new Chrysler Sixes © the "75" and the “'65"—have een produced in pursuance of these principles. 0 Chrysler: $1835 fo $1655, New CBryil ca Gleryaler Plynanaith—Six: Boddy Styles, $670 re They are deliberately designed and executed to inspire public admiration to such a pitch that they will imme- diately supersede all that has gone before and usher into existence an entirely new mocoring vogue. Ww themselves amply repaid byt immediace inspection of thése two" new Chrysler style achievements, mes 4°" Prices $1040 Fo STE 5. All Prices J B, Detroit,‘These are the oil companies which mix and sell ETHYL GASOLINE —the motor fuel that knucks out thet “knock” and gives bigh compuession perfornuance Penmeylwania Resinine Co, Penrecs Ft i Bd Oa Compiuny ng Root Redncsieg Ine Red Cad Flat Empire OF W Simpire bah Standart Oi Jara OC, (New Jers rade Fah? Oil Ca, }Obio: ed Creu Fitba? Sterling Oil Coeipany ‘Merling kcbat ihe Coal WOUCH, iisi ‘Vide Water O2 Cormac fol Tad? iGo, pFCslfornia Eibsh Pecraleaia Cory Amici | ‘Mider's Babs Pupiotesin Cu, | Waverly Oil Works Company \Acwedoe Babs i In addition there ave hunadveds of recellers, ETHYL is in good company ETHYL Wty are these companies mi A$ a car Owner to from. whatever car you IYL GASOLINE CORPORATION CitySmoother with use . Performance that constantly Superiorities of patented doubles sheevevwalve engiue svailatble to thousands more IGHTNING pick-up to: mect the de- ddera traffic—asinooth, é orticasly de after yesr— pe at irs hest, as ahard day's ran as at the starr—sirny of design. that in- ques remarkable Qcedem trom repair and carbon troubles—these ar of the many advantages enjoyed by me thin 300,000 enthusiastic drivers Willys-Kaights. Now, aba record price, the Hew engine that i esh at the end ualicy ch huis wan aie wide prestige Two other brilliant Sixes ‘The Special Six, always popular with ¢ perienced mororists, is-now sell Furth distinguished by many added refine ments and besutifal new color options ‘The Great Six, one of luxurious cars, is now larger and more powerful engine, in- smoother speed improves its best Se a oa STANDARD SIX COACH $995 WI LLYS-KNICHT SIXprojection— inexpensive with a Memo and Memoscope The Ansco Memoseope ANSCO Memo CAMERA Screen WHITE STAR LINE RED STAR LINEThis business of cuarding health Few faces hava done the worll's. eivilivat Science, The pr nettical toad vance fv thar Medical ing physician, the the institution of research have contributed immensurae bly to the welfare and happiness of bana "The heavy. Th. Anerica viniler Isis eage the: lie welsome frequent ith craminations of their A simple preventive trewt- gular he reg a ent= on their physician's advice. physician's responsibility is caatuple, be has 2 es hot Liioo\o0 Our increased responsibility 0 af them, gre With the steady advance of medical scieace has come a corresponding ia ereave in the responsibility of themaker viiperation fel Fortunately for these future eitizens— ‘The growth of Parke, Davis & ( forimately for your children — pany from a «mall beginning ed for this respon: sof ebrstist befare, Cars ay ta aur preset D of the advunces of medical woeld-known institution, bi lityofthe medicinal Our response ta this great preparatic And we could never have grown so able. with your « » to check solidly if our guiding thought hud! not anil efter us ill- always been ta pravide phy with nesses which were once an inevitable the purest dragh with tie of childizood and adolesces Grovenarpa, te PARKE, D: ‘The world's large tdep dicincs, thut scientific skill und ace could devise. VIS & CO. 1 prredivets able m are protee urmaccutical and biologi a munLoIne ‘rn roInaesses OF ee A PERSONAL NOTE his Dave Ca tks-Davle tvedl sem Hie wil ask c Ie ie Davis peodetIME lute of forged fron hardware i felc by all who love the besury and sincerity of old-fashioaed things. Buc tuntil recently, ft was t00 expencive and too difficale to obrain. Forged Tron Hardware by McKinney has completely changed all’ that Marvelous pieces oF enuine forged iron are made by jeKinney, with a fascinating, ragged apes authentically reproducing the designs of master craftsmen of other times and a rust-proofed finish plintin {a the sun Like the Bery spark fefleced Ma: ‘le designs, ney pieces available, Sec them oa display by your Builders’ Hardware Mexetant, MCKINNEY FORGED IRON HARDWARE Forms Devish, MeKinaey Mig, Co.Pisbureh, Pe Please ancl ye, without obligation, the i Peas sen spe, without obligation, the item I DFotio on Lanterns D1Brodiure on Formed tron Hardware Nain Adve “Go-as-you-please”™ tours Round the World This unique service is like a eruiseoma rivate yacht. You stop where you ploise ax long as you please. ‘Thete isa liner every week Into. Japan, Ghins snd Masila and every forenighe into Malaya, Ceylon, Egypt, Ttaly, France, New York, Havana, Cristobal and Balboa, ‘Your ticket petmits you to spend as rauch as rwO years Of the trip. ‘Thete is po othet similar service, Yee with all its advantages, $1250 and up includes tinspottatiog, sccommodations and meals card ship. ‘You sail aboard magnificent President Liners Spacious decks. Outside rooms world-famous cuisine. American Mail Liners sail every fortnight from Seattle for Japan, China, Manila and Round the Wald, ‘Dollar Liners-sail every week from Los An- gcles and Sin Francisco for Honolle, che Oricatand Round the World, They sail every fortnight from New York for the Orient via Havanu, Panama and California, American Mail Line Dollar Steamship Line Faw YORE : Baw you J currant, onto odo, Tray 1 rants, aac “1 €. 5, EONBOW ONEKT DOLLAR aUTLDiNG aN RHANCIICDSoft summer sunshine. Luncheon kit overflowing with Heinz good things. Sweet, mixed pickles, crisp and spicy. Sand- wiches of peanut butter. Beans baked in real ovens. Plump stuffed olives. Sand- wiches filled with a tempting, pickle-y Heinz spread. So very many wonder- ful things—what good Heinz flavor shall we try first? HEINZ Good things for Picnics H. J. HEINZ COMPANY - PITTSBURGH, PAool , At the Hub ath ing! ee fe the Home | of Cleveland’s ‘Ip "Ned ive ke | ) Wheel WEATHER srrapy, «jlo well the Bere BES, adjoining at you pay for them, But cane Catan Teatial ble if any money you pend for hatte equipment gocs for a mare vital purposc or one where the bert and only the fest can 7 wiliding inthe world) he most centrally located and most hed hotel in Clevelan f the great Term nal Tower are the business and shopping ein price ‘out the protection berlin guarantees to give. Younced Chamberlin to the euit, wholesale he es to Government buildings north and manufacturing south, + The season travelers and Clevelanders elie poofer Hotel Cleveland isnorilone asitix, The oul setive this locatior appeal of the Cleveland it the moment you enter the wide-Dung the Unused Suairs dei swuins aepeley. tha Tet waverpendings, the ine desire of every one of us th. heartily enjoy every moment of your im our city and ia our hotel. HOTEL CLEVELAND PUBLIC SQUARE + CLEVELAND 1000 rooms with bath, 150at$3 - Servidor Service topes CLEVELAND_ Good Buildings Deserve Good Hardware . . 6y Corbin sitial watchWe Tried 129 Times Then came the formule for this amazing shaving cream, the fastest selling in America. Try it 10 dass at our expense bejare you Ince When we announced our Gentlemen: (t shaving cream to: the World, thousands cf men Histantly bowght and tried ft on our reputation, then, mndreds of thousands have iF free test and proved the clakns we make for it, on their own faces—in their own ms.” And this i the greatest practical laberatory in the world When a man ectufs th compo for his telat ‘ vat Hie wall rontinue using Palmolive Shaving Cream, For most men, we find, never return to ing method: These 5 ionportant features 0, cies retiy fulloces far. 10 ine lite don 4s gatos wa sve lt Now mail the coupon ‘We undertaee twin OLIVEPEET COMPANY, CHICAGO, TLL 10 SHAVES FREE and a can of Palmolive After Shaving Tale Tnsert, pour veraie aval ailleeye cal all ais St. Chieage’ (Pius pelut yout nates and addres) Policy— messages must have real yalue to the reader, else they are not admissible to T The members of the National Geographic Society own The Magazine, and their interests are panemonnt, "HE Geographic takes special aing to investigate new adver tising offers, Its representatives interview users, abtain reports from Government sources. for standards, or consult experts before accepting such advertisements for its pages. UT the interests af the reader de mand a still higher standard of acceptance. The Geographic holds that it has no right to waste the reader's time with a mass of ad: tising that will not be helpful to the purchaser as well as profitable to the advertiser, nor has it the right to offend good taste by publishing cheap or unpleasant copy. HIS rigid advertising policy: onesty of offer, high standard of product, its interest and value to the readers—coupled with an extraordi« nary confidence, make for.an am ing responsiveness to the advertising messages carried to the entire Fame 0,000 hor ily in 1 each, month. he proofs are of record and the endorsement of this sound policy by the great national advertisers is shown by th many years of Geographic use, National Geographic Magazine WASHINGTON, D. .e dd tothe i ity of the Vic ng those who ktowbeauty and demand it The-snme exclusive Victory con: struction that mukes the Vic it more ker he sturdiest, nd most stylish car yer con- wed at any TeV CTO RY SIX BY DODGE BROTHERS TOURING CAR 9695 + ZDOOK SEDAN $1008 « DELUX SEDAN $1170 « SPORT SEDAN $1295 « fia. B DetroitYOU TOO, can have. Agfa film! GEA film, the choice of professional raphers, moten Im that scientists rely upon ta photographic ches the best pictures of the wil solate regions of the ea This film—Agfa—is now available $7500.00 i: Don’t delay tn eevee ti ‘of the ag Picture Gs Si : = Came the dawn Yes, it finally came, Tour- ing last summer, driving late one night trying to make the awn. Loose wire, 3 no lights. Box of 't last long. Well, the family finally walked four miles to a farm- hotise and I spent the night in the car. Believe me, there's a flashlight in the fe pocket of that car Now And one that's dependable n Eveready. Ever ready to help me out in the dari because I keep it primed for action with the best there are—Eveready Batterie: ‘Here's a-straight tip to tour- ists. 't pass it up. he flashlight habit. VACATION TRIPS & aye HAVANA *140up MEXICO CITY ‘275 up Special 28-Day All-1 Expense ‘Cruises Inchatine shore New York to Vera Cn 1 Hrvaia ned Poosrency, 0. M. Main StreeStep over the Threshold of a NEW ADVENTURE in Home Comfort and Convenience! ‘The Mas sentinel the electric ignition and combustion —safeguard- ing your comfore day and night. is modern uromatic igadwenture fn great- -s who plongcred the oil burner have ¢ for the haurs you == ELECTROL The OIL BURNER with Zhe Masler Control ED AS STANDAND AY THE UNDERWOITERS" LABORATORIES. AND DEARSOIL HEAT-AS BENEVOLENT AS SUNSHINE Don’t wait for winter —install oil heating NOW! [i rgespeet co tess ot eating seme sire rrhy not act wow and enjoy it this winter? Oil heat not only frees you from the coal showel and aahes—it gives you clean, wholcsame, auto- matic heat, uniform in zero weather and during the trying Gays a€ spcing and autumn when it is very dificult to regulure a furnace fire. Your house is refueled as easily as your automobile and you have an extra room in your basement. The oil heating dealer in your community will gladly inspect your present heating plant,or your building plans, and give you estimates om an el cient, economical oil beating system. For your guidance the Oil Heasiog published a 1 n the subject. The coupon will being t Seats you want This is the Emblem of the Oil Heating Tnstiture dost ii petnatted to ase fe sarers have eazned ree tbecabersl throwab ‘whoa ther eae {fe will be protected, ea your OIL HEATING INSTITUTE §) Check the book you tiunt =) AIL THEE $20 Madison Avenue TODAY New York - j SUL BEATING INSTITUTE Aveous, New York Cliy 1 followininforination Wlease sead me, free of charer. fa ol heatiog Cagipaean | Does i Pay to Lastall an Oil Heater: I Are Oi Heatdes Poctested ? Whar Aboor the Supply of Oil Fret | Making Botcer Use of the Buvemeat, | Same j setren € 1 1 1 ' | ! | | Cash's Names Woven on Sine <<) Cambrichupe dan rors eT oe save escey School, traveli Mark OP Iindidtiduualicy hater that your Dender write! Jal. Cash Inc.| 523 1.5. Neel, Com (C255 Coameey Longer EA Gey St Helse at Scenic Crvises CALIFORNIA ‘s3g0.. FO 8350. Serial ‘Spanish Americas: es fe & Central “Atwerien, ee & HeSier” Sphiraiee MAPS OF MERIT FOR TRAVELER, TEACHER, STUDENT, EXPORTER, TOURIST Tle: New Enrope _ Tie © aeibbe Afrioa pale aly ka Tibia tale NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY WASHINGTON, D.CON THE HILLTOP AT DAWN Yonbs OF9 ee COFFEE Anmeriea’ $ 5 Smartest Gladstone Fates “ted Sere” ae James Boring's Cruises fourth annual MEDITERRANEAN GRUISEA WORLD NATURE KNOW Oo EDGE To Enrich Every Vacation Moment ‘The Book of Birds (Revise! Biition. 1627)— by Henry W. Henshaw: full-color pcttraits of 3$1 beds: 1) bird migrasin mape; 230 payesy Molloy atv binding, $4. ‘The Book of Wild Flowers—by William Joneph Showalter and orher authorities; 250, full-color paintings of wild flowers and grasses; 243 pages; Molloy art binding, $4 Wild Animals of North America—hy Ed- we font 127 fallealor poraity by Louis Agassiz Fuertes; 86 engravings; 240 pares; bound fr buckram, $3. ‘The Book of Fisthes—by John Oliver La Gree nud other authorities; nder-water action por- traits in full-color of 92 fiahes; 245 pages, Mole lay art binding; $4. Horses of the World—by Major General William Harding Carter: 24 fullnoge illustra tions in color: 72 Blacks ee engravings; TIS payess bound in buckram, $3, The Book of Dos, tar Edition) —A. veri table “Bench Sh Wt Heading auchorities; folbcolar portraits Of 100 opi: other engrave ities: 110 pages; Molloy art binding, $3, Prices postpaid in U.S. and Camida, Mailing abroad, 25 cents. Obtainable only from the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY WASHINGTON, D. C.Little Folks Trrive on These Tasty Biscuits B D FOOD CO, Depariment 1 BRAN BISCUIT 4[A Tasty Bran Wafer }- SED EVERYWHERE TO “HANG UP THINGS” For Pra ‘ins Moore Pu EEPLEMING, ING. /98URE, PA Mentian the ‘GeographFranks Cetin, i Feypt— Palestine And the mose comprehensive itineray tid historic cicies surroun niente NO Sailing fram Neve York, Jan, 20H “Exclusively, Charsered Palaial S.5. "SCYTHIA™ JUDD & DETWEILER, Inc. Mavter Printers RECOMMENDATION FOR MEMBERSHIP. NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY ‘The Membership Fee, Which ix for the Calendar Year, Inefatles Subscription to the Natianat Geographic Magazine To the Secretary, National Geographic Society, Sixteanth and Mf Strocts Northwest, Wankington, D. C. I nominate Occupation Address ee saa Saeeeeas — for membership in the Society, an "Name and Adress of Nominating StaiteTHe YA | fy f med 4 South Sea Voyage ought to be/ fori—on LASSCO'S gay, frienilly lincrs ta magieal— HAWAII lice thregh ‘QU Hiveon“The Voyage of Your Dreams.” One day,o the Riviera of Airiea, at Algiers the second day after, on the French Riviera, Mente Carlo, Mentone—a week later, in the Holy Land. Egypt next and golden days in old Cairo — a snonth later, India for 12 of the most absorbing days of your life. ‘You cross the Equator—with appropriateceremonies Sumatra welcomes you—Java— Siam — even Borneo and Sulu—the wondrous Orient — Japan, Cherry-Blossom time, th greatest Festival Season of the year. You cross the 180th Meridian and pick wp an extra day—and celebrate accordingly. Every day you live in a glorious adventure—new things to do, new things to see. And, always, you live luxuriously ‘on the SLUTE,"Queen of Cruising Steamshi regal tho: Winter Ganten, Terrace Cafe, sun-lit tiled Swimming Pool, unrivaled cuisine, 40 Countries 63 Cities 140 Days. xo lay romance, Yo the sonar ide. | appio callee. You play golf, te motor to the you call von pal oe: tercepor iadwerd Motel i to view the Wonders of Ha- ational Park and the eal vacation land! For play — for reat — nigly new experienc "Togo there this ye ONE WAY FARE FROM S90, Fr hoghlet od ull partientars rite ‘apply any wuahertarl gests me ios ANGELES STEAMSHIP CO Sou Froabwap, LOS ANGELES NEWYONE—306 FAN Ave. SAN FANCISCD. CGNCACO—140 5. Dewsbyea jy.pp S48 DALLD —: ca © South America -- Africa 4 CRUISE . #ROM NEW YORK NEXT JANUARY 22ND u Canadian Pacific , J Wierldr One cated Travel System ican Lge. Ronoryc aves ara: ; Ubon: Chatto Heeroma Jf area FaoWait for the NEW PEERLESS Six-81 announced August Il CORPORATION - CLEVELAND, OHIO.Have you experienced the “feel” of this desk fountain-pen? A pocket founiin-pon ip a convenience, But this desk fountin-pen 1s ever a source of downright joy. It is built as a pen should be—shapely, bal- ‘anced, elegant. LigMTEsT to the touch is this time= avind and dependable instrument, Le almost fur- wm of sport for these who write. —withou hulisl And the ratchet- eiver is always at the handiest angle. Ik is the most luxurious pen equipment in the world. Get the “feel” of this desk fountain-pen. At’hetter atores everywhere SHEAFFER NS+ PENCIL