Professional Documents
Culture Documents
17 b
- r
ste
p
y- ials
tep uto
s t
FREE-MOTION
EMBROIDERY
City tote bag
60
T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E
ways to make
SUMMER
STYLISH
V Pattern hack - floaty lace overlay
V Designs to copy vintage starlet style
V Lazy Daisy Jones's tips to make your
sewing room swoon-worthy!
NO
PATTERN
FLAMINGO-PRINT SUNDRE
SS NEEDED ISSUE 30 UK £5.99
25% OFF AT WHITE TREE FABRICS PLUS 10% OFF AT OVER 50 STORES
Inspire
Imagine
Create www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
23
Must have!
Your free Simple
Sew pattern
!
Welcome to the
new issue of
Love Sewing...
A
s I write this, summertime is in
full swing and suddenly my
sundresses are on full rotation.
68
Having ice-cream vans, summer events
and beach holidays on the brain may
have inspired my fabric choices for this
issue, as our Grace collection has been of welt pockets? Alison Smith MBE is
made up in most delicious ice-cream on hand to show you how to achieve a
shades of lace. This pattern really is the perfect finish on page 82.
perfect design for showcasing prints,
trying out new fabric and letting your If you're eager to sew for the children
creativity shine. in your life we think they'll love
George the giraffe on page 65, and little
In this issue, we also have plenty of exciting girls will love our flamingo-print Bailey
projects to boost your skills. We have two dress. Or maybe you're just in need of a
ways to try DIY drafting with a modern quick project like a fun printed apron or
60
shirtdress on page 40 and sweet shell top sweet-smelling lavender bag. Speedy
on page 26, and Claire-Louise Hardie sewing is definitely on Elisalex de
54
shares her top tips on successful pattern Castro Peake's mind so she has the
drafting in her Thrifty Stitcher column. perfect list of fast and satisfying projects
you can whip up this summer. Find her
Plus, there is an easy-to-sew wrap skirt on page 28.
that you can enhance with decorative
top stitching and a welt pocket. Scared I hope wherever you are reading this
issue, it's lovely weather, you have an
icy drink to hand and are filled with
fresh inspiration.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 3
34
REGULARS
AND FEATURES
Must have!
3 WELCOME Your FREE Simple
Sew pattern
6 LOVE SEWING LOVES
9 BIG VINTAGE
SEW-ALONG NEWS
56 SEWING
16/05/2016 16:35
10 LOVE
outlined.indd 1
#32 Grace Dress envelope
ROOM SWOON
SEWING LIBRARY
74 ARE YOU THE
13 READERS’ MAKES STITCHER OF THE YEAR?
14 THIS MONTH 76 JOIN THE
I’M MAKING SUMMER SEWATHON
16 BEHIND THE SEAMS 79 FABRIC FOCUS:
with Wendy Ward FANTASTIC FOXGLOVE
19 THE VINTAGE 80 A BRIEF HISTORY
PHOTO PROJECT of Duttons for Buttons
with Christine Simpson
82 COUTURE SEWING 26
28 THE with Alison Smith MBE
DRESSMAKER’S DIARY
with Elisalex de 85 BASICS OF GRACE DRESS & SKIRT
Castro Peake PATTERN READING
26 SWEET SHELL TOP
32 PROFESSIONAL 86 MACHINE REVIEWS
FINISHES: FABRIC TIES 30 SEWING
88 CLASSES, COURSES
AND WORKSHOPS
BEE KIMONO 52
38 THE THRIFTY
STITCHER 34 VERA WRAP SKIRT
92 DISCOUNTS 62 OILCLOTH APRON
with Claire-Louise Hardie
& GIVEWAYS 40 NO-PATTERN
65 GEORGE
46 PATTERN PICKS SHIRTDRESS
95 SHOP OF THE THE GIRAFFE
with Sarah Gunn
MONTH 43 ARROWHEAD
68 BAILEY SUNDRESS
48 FABRIC FOCUS: FOLD NECKLACE
96 COMING NEXT ISSUE 72 PEEKABOO ZOO
SING THE BLUES 52 AMSTERDAM TOTE
PROJECTS FINGER PUPPETS
51 SIMPLE SEW 54 VINTAGE PEG BAG
SEND-AWAY 23 YOUR FREE PATTERN 98 30-MINUTE MAKE:
CULOTTES OFFER GIFT – SIMPLE SEW 60 HANDS-ON CUSHION LAVENDER SACHETS
4 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Editorial
62 Editor Amy Thomas
Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage
Editorial Assistant Felix McNulty
Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran
Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton
Senior Art Editor Denise Johnson
Designers Simon Kay, Sarah Edmondson,
Suzanne Guest
Photographers Alex Wright, Dan Walmsley
Hair & Make-Up Nina Rochford
Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie,
Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake,
Wendy Ward, Sarah Gunn
Subscription Enquiries
Tel: 01858 438899
Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing
International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X
All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark
of Love Sewing is used under licence from Craft Media Ltd. No material
in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form
whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing
International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers.
All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent
to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive
transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior
to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used,
reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and
displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now
known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.
Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc
Contributors
Karin Jordan Sarah Gunn
A former magazine editor and art gallery director, Karin designs Sarah inspires thousands of readers through her blog
and makes stuff in New Hampshire when she’s not chasing her www.goodbyevalentino.com with the motto: “Sew your own
family around. She blogs at www.leighlaurelstudios.com and clothes, save thousands of dollars, and look like a million bucks!”
you’ll find her Liberty memory cushion project on page 60. See Sarah’s pattern picks on page 46.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 5
£20
ELIANE
JUMPSUIT
House of Pinheiro
+ Style Arc
SHOPPER
to create a new pattern. This on-trend
jumpsuit is full of style and comfort.
The lovely shawl collar has an
interesting notched feature to give the
effect of a revere and the pleats on the
6 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Dottie Angel
FOR SIMPLICITY
Look out for the new Dottie Angel design brought to you in association with
Simplicity. This stylish pattern S8153 comes in a single size pack of XS-XL,
including a top in two lengths, and a dress with contrast bibs and lace
edging, plus a skirt with elastic waist and patch pocket. The pattern has
now landed at www.simplicitynewlook.com and is priced just £5.95.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 7
FREE
PATTERN
Make a
SUMMERY
SORBETTO
DRESS
with Colette Patterns
The beloved Sorbetto top has had a makeover thanks to the
inventive team at Colette Patterns. It’s taken its staple shell blouse,
that’s still completely free to download, and shown you how to
make a stylish dress.
Find the step-by-step guide at blog.colettehq.com/tutorials
8 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Big Vintage
Sew-along news!
Have you joined in with the Big Vintage Sew-
along yet? It’s a fun opportunity for sewists to
come together and ‘sew vintage’. We’re thrilled
to have Rachel and Kate from The Fold Line to
share all the news from the fun blogger tour.
So who’s been sewing up some vintage Follow the fabulous blo
gger tour, chat with yo
loveliness this month? favourite sewists and
www.thefoldline.com/
see pattern reviews at
ur
blog
i 6582
i 5813
I
n March, The McCall Pattern Company Italian brocade. com). The
in the UK chose 20 of its most popular After making a pledge
vintage patterns from Retro Butterick, toile, she only encourages you
McCall’s archive collection and Vogue made a few minor to sew using
patterns for the sew-along. A contribution adjustments to the your vintage
from every vintage pattern sold in pattern, including patterns, so
the inspirational edit will go towards altering the back Marie chose
supporting The Eve Appeal charity. Find bodice to make it more fitted. this dress as part of her pledge as well
out how to take part, plus read all about This dress does have a few tricky details to as for the Big Vintage Sew-along blogger
upcoming events and competitions at sew, so it would be a good one to tackle tour. She decided to swap the skirt of this
www.vintagesewalong.co.uk once you have completed some beginner pattern with a pleated version to give a
dressmaking projects. more modest full skirt.
Ka d Rael y: “What better
way to get inspiration for your own vintage Janene fully lined her dress, which has given Marie found the instructions easy to
outfit than to see what your favourite it a beautiful finish. It has some lovely vintage follow and liked the finish of the all-in-
sewing bloggers are making? There is a details, including small darts for shaping the one facing, even though it is a bit tricky
fun-packed year with bloggers taking it sleeve. The dress also includes a fitted bodice to sew in place. The dress is semi-fitted
in turns to make one of the 20 vintage with collar and front princess seams with with gathered shoulders and comes with
patterns and each month we will be three-quarter length sleeves and an optional fitted or full skirt options. She used a
sharing their amazing outfits with you. This belt. This is a stunning dress and is paired beautiful viscose double gauze fabric. The
month it was the turn of Janene Spencer perfectly with polka dot shoes and retro style suits her so well and will be a great
(www.ooobop.com) and Marie Koupparis shades for a glamorous vintage look! addition to any vintage lover’s wardrobe!
(www.astitchingodyssey.com).
www.ooobop.com/big-vintage-sewalong- www.astitchingodyssey.com/2016/07/a-
retro-butterick-5813/ vintagepledge-for-bvsewalong.html
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 9
library
Our pick of this month's new
sewing and dressmaking books
LEARN
TO SEW
by Emma Hardy
£9.99
CICO Books
If you’re new
to sewing, the
number of
projects out there to choose from can be
pretty intimidating, and it can be hard to
work out the best way to build up your
skills and confidence at a realistic pace.
This new book from lifelong sewist Emma
Hardy consists of 25 simple and accessible
sews that are quick and easy to make using
basic hand and machine sewing skills. A
fully illustrated technique guide shows you
all you need to know to complete each
project, from basting to hemming, so you
can try your hand at sewing a range of
pretty accessories for your home, including
curtains, cushion covers, duvet sets and
much more. You’ll be hooked in no time!
10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Hello! How are you today and what’s on What are the advantages of
your sewing table right now? patternless sewing?
Hello! Good thanks – a little bit high from bleach Freedom and control are the key advantages
fumes as I’ve been making lots of denim paler! – you can make something to fit your body
I’ve a half-finished toile for a summery shirt on and you can choose the design details. There
my sewing table right now. I don’t normally toile, is obviously no average woman, but patterns
but I started with a vintage pattern and massively work on the assumption of a general
changed it and I’m going to be using some body shape, and we often have to make
custom printed fabric I only have one metre of so adjustments to mould that generalised
I felt I should be sensible. frame until it fits the reality of our unique
bodies. Patternless sewing means you make
Tell us a bit about No Patterns Needed – it how you want it right from the beginning.
what inspired the book? You decide skirt length, sleeve width,
Laurence King asked me if I would like to write neckline, whether or not you add a collar,
another book and I had a few thoughts swirling and so on. I also feel that patternless sewing
around. The tutorials that I thought worked can massively increase your confidence Tell us a bit about your design process
best from my last book were the ones that took in being able to make things from – where do you get your ideas from?
really simple shapes and manipulated them to scratch generally. I used to buy a lot of fashion magazines but
fit the body. I had also recently been teaching these days I spend time collecting inspiration
at The Thrifty Stitcher and, while idly flipping What would your advice be for on the internet. I look at runway collections
through a sewing book there, I’d seen a diagram anyone nervous about having a on the Vogue website or on Style.com and
of women’s bodies categorised into different go at sewing without patterns? I look at outfits worn by bloggers like Suzie
shapes – triangle, rectangle, oval etc. It annoyed Give it a go! I know absolute freedom can Bubble. For this book I sketched out a lot
me a bit as I think the beauty of sewing is you can be intimidating, which is where my of possible ideas grouped as rectangles,
make whatever you want, regardless of whether instructions come in. There are 15 circles or triangles and I tried to get a
society thinks it suits you. I thought wouldn’t it be designs in the book, catering for lots of balance between skirts, dresses and tops.
great if we could take these shapes and use them different confidence levels. A couple of I then did a LOT of sewing to experiment
to create garments, rather than having these the skirts are super simple and would be with what I’d drawn out on paper. When
shapes imposed on our bodies? a great place to start. it comes to fabrics for the variations, I am
really inspired by my models who are a great
bunch of women, all with their own style and
personality. I shopped for fabric with them in
mind and I tried to make variations that they
would wear. My models really helped guide
me through the design process.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 11
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Readers Stakre
MAKES ma
We love Lisa’s
fabric choices
for this dress
made using a
Threadcount
pattern
How cute is
Lorraine Smith’s
nephew? Her
giant Nessie
seems like the
perfect place
for a nap!
www.lovesewingmag.com 13
Spcy
4298
We love the sweet deer fabric Kat
of the Modern Vintage Cupcakes
blog has used for this vintage
dress – see more from Kat at
www.macskakat.wordpress.com
T
his month I’ve been making an early
1960s pattern using Michael Miller
Rustique Yes Deer poplin! For this, I
used Simplicity 4298, a ‘seven-day wardrobe’
pattern from the early 1960s. It’s been in
my stash for a couple of years now and I’ve
been planning on making it up for about that
long! I love the idea of wardrobe patterns – I
actually have plans to make all the variations
in this pattern and have the full ‘seven-day
wardrobe’ as the pattern suggests.
14 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 15
THE SEAMS
range of easy-to-
follow modern
sewing patterns
called MIY
Collection. I am
w d o Logistics
Ho get
This was a recurring theme for the sewists who
you
shared their experiences with me online – if
every time you sew you have to clear the dining
w - j o
table, unpack your project and your sewing
r se
machine, it’s often time to put it all away again
y ou
as soon as you’ve started, so why bother?
back?
Too much sewing for others
Taking on too many projects for others was a
cause mentioned by a few people online. While
it’s rewarding to make things for others (when
they’re well received!), make sure you put time
aside for selfish sewing too.
16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 17
The
VINTAGE
PHOTO
Grace Kelly by Howell
Conant, 1955
project
The bodice was created
freehand with some trial and
error on the sleeves. The skirt
was traced from my favourite
vintage pencil skirt.
© Beck Photographic
Audrey Hepburn
in Sabrina, 1954
The bodice front
was self-drafted,
the back traced
Cyd Charisse, 1947 from a vintage
The bodice was adapted dress, and the
from McCall’s 6713, and skirt was the
the skirt is a self-drafted same pattern
three-quarter circle. as the Roman
© Beck Photographic Holiday skirt.
© Jamie Topp
E
very stitch you see here
was made by me, using
a mixture of self-drafted
and Frankenstein-style pattern
piece combinations. The project
took about six months from start
to finish and the problem was
definitely finding time to sew.
I have a full-time job so it all had to fit around
that and the social life. There were certainly
times where I got stuck and just had to leave
things for a few days to regain motivation.
Scheduling the photoshoots once I was nearly
done also provided a helpful deadline for me
to stick to.
20 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Goldhawk Road in West London, but I found the cutting mat and a rotary blade cutter. That
right thing eventually and bought all they had! helped so much for cutting the bodice and
getting a crisp neckline. Once I was happy
To tackle the design changes I didn’t take with the bodice I moved onto the skirt, only
any drafting classes (in retrospect this might to find that the panels were longer than my
have been a good thing to do), I just started cutting mat and desk, so I had to keep running
improvising with the pattern pieces I had, and downstairs from my carpeted sewing room to
drew the rest freehand or traced them from my be able to cut out on the hardwood floor. It’s a
own clothes. I have a longer torso and narrower simple dress so there were no ruffles or gathers
shoulders than most vintage patterns expect, to worry about, but I wanted to get the seams
so I almost always have to adjust the bodice as perfect as possible, so I was really diligent
pieces when I make dresses. about pressing after each step. Unfortunately, I
got a bit too enthusiastic with pressing the skirt
My favourite method for experimenting with and managed to overwork a few panels, so I
pattern pieces is to trace or sketch them on had a few do-overs.
baking parchment, fold up the darts and just
see how they fit on me or my mannequin before Trying to pick a favourite dress is tough! I do
adapting the design lines. Baking parchment love swanning around the house in my Cyd
is flexible enough for a quick draft, and much Cherisse gown when it’s cold outside, but
more durable than standard pattern tissue. I think my favourite photo and outfit was
the Audrey Hepburn skirt and blouse from
The thing I remember taking the longest was Roman Holiday. My photographer and I had so
the black Sabrina dress. It’s made of pure silk, much fun recreating that shot on the original
so it’s lovely to wear, but getting the cut smooth scooter, and the skirt is absolutely perfect for
was a real challenge for me. I was getting swishing around while swing dancing, so I
nowhere with my scissors, so I invested in a wear it all the time!
Audrey Hepburn in
Roman Holiday, 1953
I used a top pattern
from an old Living
magazine No.L5 and
the six-panel skirt
was self-drafted.
© Jamie Topp
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 21
EXCLUSIVE
NEW
Designed in the UK for DESIGNS
UK dress sizes OUT NOW!
STYLISH THE
NEW DRESS EDIT
DESIGNS COLLECTION
GRACE KELLY
with our latest Simple Sew pattern
SAVE
for its simplicity – and her
classic and elegant approach
25%
to dressing has ensured it
looks timeless. She chose pearl
jewellery, cropped cardigans,
tortoiseshell sunglasses and on lace
dresses with modest scoop by visiting
icon necklines and nipped-in
Style waists, all in candy coloured
page 92
shades of cashmere and
silk. Her wardrobe always looked pulled together and
sophisticated – but never showy.
We ed:
We ed: Lilac 5mm plain colour spot net,
Duck egg large flower lace, £11.10 per metre, £6.35 per metre,
www.whitetreefabrics.com www.whitetreefabrics.com
Sea Green soft polyester fabric, £7.99 per Pale blue lilac trieste peachskin
metre, www.minervacrafts.com fabric, £7.99 per metre,
www.minervacrafts.com
24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
TUTORIAL
LACE OVERLAY
Create a timeless classic by sewing
a lace or chiffon overlay to your skirt
or dress
We ed:
Blue viscose nylon spandex
lace fabric, £9.60 per metre,
www.guthrie-ghani.co.uk
Navy blue trieste peachskin
fabric, £7.99 per metre,
www.minervacrafts.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 25
SHELL TOP
Dip your toes into pattern drafting with this easy
to make button-down shell top
Project LORNA KNIGHT Author of Complete Dressmaking Skills
Photography SIMON PASK
""
MATERIALS:
" 1-2m lightweight woven fabric such as
cotton lawn or viscose fabric
" 6-8 1cm buttons
" co-ordinating thread
NOTES: A B
You can make a simple sleeveless top using a
basic rectangular shape. You will need your bust
measurement as well as your shoulder-to-hip
length and shoulder-to-bust length.
: C D
Draw a rectangle with a length the same as
your shoulder-to hip-length and width of half
your bust measurement plus 2.5cm for ease.
(See Pic A.)
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 27
W
e’re all The secret of successful summertime
going on sewing is to plan a small capsule
a summer wardrobe of matching makes that can
ho-li-daaayyy! No easily be completed in an evening and
more working, wait enjoyed the very next day. Breezy tops,
– or sewing?!!! – for simple skirts and floaty dresses being
a week or two… the order of the day. I’ve found that 2
Well, I don’t know ambitious projects only end up getting
about you, but I neglected as I struggle to find the time
certainly won’t be to make any decent progress, leaving
able to last that me feeling frustrated and unsatisfied.
long without fondling some fabric or
pressing a freshly sewn seam. Grainline Studio’s newest pattern,
the Penny Raglan tee, ticks all the
The notion that the summer holidays are boxes – lightning quick to sew,
a time to kick back and relax, especially stash-buster extraordinaire, and
when you have kids, is a total myth. In guaranteed to be something
my experience, the summer holidays you’ll want to wear every day,
means trying, and mostly failing to get all summer long (and well
a blog post written up or work on a new into the colder months layered
pattern after the kids are in bed, inevitably over a long-sleeved top). I’ll be
a little tipsy from all the Aperol Spritzes churning out at least three of these.
and rosé at dinner. Talk about first world
problems. Despite how I may have come
across in that last sentence, I actually do
love the school holidays, and spend ages 1 Elisalex recommends hand
in the build up thinking of and planning embroidery as the perfect
fun activities amongst the family holidays travel project
away. But for single mums who run their 2 Try the By Hand London off-the-
own businesses, and who like to spend shoulder top tutorial on the blog
their precious ‘me time’ scratching a 3 Penny Raglan Tee, $12
creative itch (like me!), there is very little (about £9) PDF pattern,
opportunity for selfish sewing over the shop.grainlinestudio.com
summer months. So I’m rounding up my 4 When Doves Crochet top, £19.99,
www.woolandthegang.com
x
5 Cascade skirt, $13.50 (about
Elisale
£10), www.megannielsen.com
28 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Happy sewing
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 29
Unisex
KIMONO
Easy to make and easy to wear,
this kimono is an ideal project for
matching loungewear
""
MATERIALS:
" 4.2m of 115cm-wide or 3.7m of 150cm-wide lightweight
cotton or silky fabric
" 2.1m of 115cm or 150cm-wide co-ordinating fabric for the
contrast bands
" 1.5m iron-on interfacing
" co-ordinating thread
CUTTING:
Seve
Cut 2 et et Frоt - Cut 2
Seve nd
lt - Cut 2
Frоt nast nd
NOTES:
Use a 1cm seam allowance throughout.
:
ASSEMBLY
Stay-stitch the neck edge of the kimono back just inside
the seam allowance.
With RST, pin and then sew the back piece to the front pieces at the
shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
Open out the garment. With RST, matching the notches and
The Great British Sewing matching the small centre dot on the sleeve to the shoulder seam, pin
Bee: From Stitch to Style the sleeve to the armhole edge. Sew, then press the seam towards the
by Wendy Gardiner sleeve. (See Pic A.)
(Quadrille £25) © 2016 Love
Productions. Photography With RST, sew the straight edge of a pocket piece to each garment
© 2016 Jenni Hare. front at the marked position. Now attach the remaining two pocket
pieces to the kimono back, matching the placement lines. (See Pic B.)
30 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
A B C
D E F
SIZING:
36 38 40 42 44 46 48
118.5cm 120cm 121.25cm 122.5cm 123.75cm 125cm 126.25cm
Chest
46¾” 47¼” 47¾” 48¼” 48¾” 49¼” 49¾”
116cm 117.25cm 118.5cm 119.75cm 121cm 122.25cm 123.5cm
Waist
455/8” 461/8” 465/8” 471/8” 475/8” 481/8” 485/8”
133cm 134.25cm 135.5cm 136.75cm 138cm 139.25cm 140.5cm
Hem width
523/8” 527/8” 533/8” 537/8” 543/8” 547/8” 553/8”
Press all seams towards the pockets, then of the band will now just overlap the seam Try on the kimono and pin mark the
press the pockets away from the garment. attaching the band to the garment. position for the belt loops at the side
seams. Hand or machine stitch in place at
With RST, pin the front of the kimono to Press up the remaining garment hem by 5cm the side seams.
the back at the side, from the sleeves down to match the band fold, then on the inside press
around the pockets to the hem. Sew the seam under by 2.5cm. Top-stitch in place.
in a single motion, pivoting at the corners.
Reinforce the underarm and the pocket top Slip-stitch the neatened band edge over the
and bottom by stitching again for 5cm either seam on the inside.
TUTORIAL -
side of the pivot points. Clip into the seam SLIP STITCH
allowance where the pocket joins the garment ATTACH THE SLEEVE BANDS
at the lower edge and press the pocket Cut the interfacing to half the width of the
towards the garment front. (See Pic C.) sleeve bands and fuse as you did with the
contrast bands. With RST, stitch the short
ATTACH THE CONTRAST BANDS ends of the band together to form a circle.
Cut interfacing half the width of the Press the non-interfaced long edge to the
contrast band pieces and fuse to the WS of the WS by 1.5cm. RST attach the band to
bands down one long edge, aligned with the the sleeve. Fold the band to the inside, so that
fold. With RST, stitch the band pieces together the turned-under edge just overlaps the seam,
Used to close turning gaps or sew
to create one long strip. Press the non- and slipstitch in place. (See Pic F.)
double-turned hems. Anchor a knot
interfaced long edge to the WS by 1.5cm.
inside the fold of the hem, pick up a
MAKE THE BELT AND BELT LOOPS tiny thread from the garment fabric
With RST, pin the interfaced edge of Place the belt pieces RST and sew across
and then pass the needle back into the
the contrast band to the kimono front. If one short end to make one long strip. Fold the
folded hem allowance. Slide the needle
necessary, clip into the seam allowance to strip in half lengthways, RST. Sew around the
forwards inside the fold by about 1cm,
help fit the band at the neckline. Sew and raw edges leaving a turning gap in the middle.
then bring it up and through a tiny
press the seams towards the contrast band. Turn the belt RS out and press then slip-stitch
thread of the garment again. Continue
(See Pic D.) the opening closed. For extra help see page 32!
like this to complete the hem. On the
RS of the garment all that should be
At the hem, temporarily fold the band in Fold the belt loop strips in half lengthways,
visible is a tiny prick stitch and on the
half RST, and pin. Stitch across the band only, with RST, and stitch along the long edge.
reverse, a small V-shaped stitch.
making a 5cm hem. (See Pic E.) Turn the band Turn RS out, tucking the raw ends inside.
RS out and press. The turned-under long edge Slip-stitch closed.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 31
FABRIC TIES
The art of achieving a fabulous finish in your handmade garments is to spend extra time
on even the most straightforward tasks. In this tutorial we’re focusing on perfect ties!
Fabric ties or fabric belts are used corners off at an angle, close to
A
on so many garments and are the stitching. (See Pic A.)
often made from the same fabric
as the garment. Created from Turn the tie RS out, pushing
strips of fabric cut on the straight the stitched ends through to
grain, they are stitched with the opening in the centre with
straight stitch – take a look at a ruler or other blunt tool. Once
our kimono project on page 30 turned through, use a point
for an example. turner to ease out the corners
completely. (See Pic B.)
Most patterns that require a B
fabric tie will provide a pattern Slip-stitch the turning gap
piece for it. If you are creating closed. Press, with the seam on
your own, determine the length the lower edge of the tie.
required – remember that it
needs to be enough to tie into METHOD 2
a bow with tails. Add 3cm to Use this method to conceal
this measurement for the seam the seam at the centre back of
allowances. Decide on the width the tie.
of the finished belt – for a dress C
or kimono, this may be 3-5cm. Fold the tie fabric in half
Double this width and add 3cm lengthways, RST, with the raw
for the seam allowances. edges together. Stitch along the
long edge. Tack across one short
If you want the belt to have end temporarily. (See Pic C.)
some firmness, interface half the
width, applying the interfacing to Turn the tie through to the
the WS. RS from the tacked end, pushing D
the end through with a ruler as
METHOD 1 in Step 2 of Method 1.
This is the standard method for
tie belts, and has the seam along Unpick the tacking stitches
the bottom edge and the fold at and roll the tube so that the
the top edge. seam runs along the centre. Tuck
the seam allowance in at each
Interface half the tie fabric if short end and either edge stitch
required. Once cooled, fold the by machine or slip-stitch the E
tie fabric in half lengthways, RST, opening closed. (See Pic D.)
with the raw edges together.
Starting at one short end and METHOD 3
taking a 1.5cm seam allowance, This is a very quick method of
stitch across the end, pivot, making straps and ties, and
and stitch along the long is particularly useful for fabric
Edge, leaving a turning gap that is thick, sticky or difficult WS by 1cm and press. Fold the Stitch again down either long
of about 20cm in the middle, to turn through. The extra rows other long edge to the centre edge, an equal distance from
then continue to the other end, of stitching also help provide a of the tie and press. Fold the the centre stitching and edges.
pivoting to stitch the other short sturdy tie. neatened edge to the centre, (See Pic E.)
end. Trim the seam allowance, overlapping the raw edge of
leaving the turning gap seam With the WS uppermost, fold the other side. Stitch down Turn under the raw ends and
allowance untrimmed. Cut the one long edge of the tie to the the centre close to the fold. edge-stitch by machine.
32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
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COTTON FABRICS
DRESSMAKING
ESSENTIALS
r d r e s s m a king
www.sew2go.co.uk
Tel: 01484 88 88 88 | support@eastman.co.uk
WRAP
SKIRT
An easy-to-wear wrap skirt
with topstitch detailing
and curved border hem. An
optional bound pocket adds
a professional finishing touch
Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl
Photography DAN WALMSLEY
A B C
D E F
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 35
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filled with sewing trends, the latest
free pattern
projects and must haves. With our
guidance and helpful insider tips
THE THRIFTY
STITCHER
Let’s join Claire-Louise Hardie, sewing expert
for The Great British Sewing Bee, with more
adventures in pattern drafting. Learn how to use
pre-drafted blocks to express your creativity!
Top tip!
I have had a lot of success
with the Palmer Pletsch
fitting shell, and found
that it provided a good
overall fit with minor
adjustments at
the waist
L
ast month I discussed drafting your competition by a group of amateurs, into The beauty of this method is there’s a lot less
own blocks as a way to make your unique dress designs. maths than drafting from scratch, which is a
own better-fitting patterns. big plus, and it’s super quick to trace rather
• If you plan to use a block like this, here’s a than draft.
OK, so here’s a little confession! Unless I’m couple of notes:
making a costume for someone like Dame • There is only one set of sizing for the Fitting patterns
Helen Mirren, I don’t generally draft my blocks base size 12 – with a chart explaining the If the idea of drafting from scratch leaves
from scratch, it’s just too time consuming when grading increments up and down from you cold, and you don’t fancy investing in
I can still make great-fitting, unique patterns that size, so you’ll need to work out your fashion blocks, then most big commercial
using a pre-made block. size from this with a spot of maths. pattern companies do a basic fitting pattern.
• There’s no seam allowance! You’ll need to These are perfect if you’re really happy
What kind of magical product is this I hear you add this after you’ve traced off your size, working with commercial patterns, and have
shout? Well, the block I have used for over a but this means you can add as much as all the seam allowances added, along with
decade is the Shoben dress block. you’re comfortable with, eg add more for familiar labels and markings. I use these to
fabric prone to fraying. teach pattern fitting techniques, and they
Shoben blocks • The skirt block is only to the hipline. are essentially a basic block.
This block was used recently in your favourite The measurements from the hip to knee,
TV sewing contest to create a set of blocks for and hip to ankle are provided, so you’ll Here’s a couple of notes on fitting patterns:
10 models. Since there was no drafting from need to extend the skirt beyond the • McCall’s, Vogue, Butterick and Kwik Sew
scratch, it was quick to customise each block. hipline yourself. are all the same company, so the fitting
Much like using a sewing pattern, you can • The block doesn’t have lots of lovely patterns are based on the same blocks
blend between sizes and adjust the length notches like a sewing pattern, you’ll need that those companies use to develop their
of bodice and sleeves to the model’s specific to add these in yourself. sewing patterns.
measurements. In half the time of drafting from • You may still need to do classic fit • The Palmer Pletsch/ McCall’s fitting pattern
scratch a set of unique blocks were created adjustments like swaybacks as you would comes with a sheet of really useful fitting
that were then transformed in the sewing any normal pattern. tips, plus additional seam allowances at
38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Make a jersey cowl-neck T-shirt horizontal line from the tip of the neck point
A really simple and effective project at the shoulder (as indicated in red on the
to get to grips with pattern drawing). The upper horizontal line forms the
manipulation is a jersey cowl-neck cowl neckline.
top. The process isn’t hard, yet the
outcome is really effective.
So now you’ve got a well-fitting block, you’ll Using a needlepoint tracing wheel, mark
need to learn some pattern manipulation around the perimeter outline of the new
techniques unless you only want to make pattern, and then remove the slashed original.
slim-fitted, high-necked sheath dresses for the Mark the pricked outline with a pencil and
rest of your sewing life! ruler, then cut out the new front pattern piece.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 39
YOUR
no pattern
needed!
OWN
shirtdress
SIZING:
QUARTER BUST= Full bust + 10cm ease, then ÷ 4
QUARTER WAIST= Full waist + 10cm ease, then ÷ 4
FRONT SKIRT Full hip + 16cm ease, then ÷ 4, then
WIDTH= + 3cm seam allowance
TUCK LENGTH= Under bust point measuring to waist
TUCK SPACE= Quarter bust - quarter waist
TUCK DEPTH= Tuck space ÷ 3, then ÷ 2
A B C
""
MATERIALS:
" 2-2.5m of light to medium-weight fabric
like cotton, viscose or chambray
" 10 1cm buttons
" co-ordinating thread
" newsprint or drafting paper
F
How to draft:
D E
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 41
42 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
NECKLACE
Create your own beautifully pleated ribbon necklace
with this tutorial from Ruth Singer. This eye-catching
design is surprisingly simple to make
Project RUTH SINGER
Photography ALEX WRIGHT teneight
A B C
D E F
45° angle. Clip the fold and press in place. measures 35cm or as long as required. (See
NOTES: (See Pic B.) Pic F.) Use the ribbon or cotton tape to tie at
the back of the neck.
It can be easier to work this on the Turn the tail under itself and up to
ironing board, pressing as you go
create the other half of the triangle so the
Sewing clips are easier to use than pins, ribbon points up. (See Pic C.) Pick up a copy of
especially if the ribbon is heavy her book Fabric
Flip the triangle you have just made Manipulation:
It works best to sew the pleats straight upwards, bringing the tail out of the way 150 Creative
onto a cotton tape or matching narrow so it points down. You should have two Sewing Techniques,
ribbon as you go triangles on top of each other now. Adjust published by
so the second one is slightly lower than David and Charles
the first. (See Pic D.) Reposition the clips
" so you have one on each side. Press to
MATERIALS: hold in place. At this point, position the
" 2m of 5cm-wide grosgrain ribbon bias binding or cotton tape along the
" 1m of 1cm-wide fine matching ribbon or centre back of the folds (with a 30cm tail)
cotton tape and take a few stitches through all layers
" co-ordinating thread to hold it together (keeping stitching very
small and invisible on the front).
:
Start by folding a triangle at the end Fold the ribbon under and towards the
of the ribbon, with both lengths pointing right. (See Pic E.)
down and the long tail on the right side.
Clip or pin then press in place. (See Pic A.) Fold the ribbon upwards to create Learn more about Ruth’s courses
another triangle. Flip the triangle up. Clip, in fabric manipulation on her site,
Fold the tail across to the left creating a press, stitch and continue until the piece www.ruthsinger.com
44 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Most classes
117 s
include all materials, NEW
One day classe equipment, a hot Teenage &
21
rses
drink AND A BISCUIT!
Childrens
Classes
Cou
C RO F T M I L L
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 45
CROFT MILL.indd 1 06/03/2015 12:19
MY PATTERN PICKS
rah Gunn
Sarah of blog
Goodbye Valentino
inspires thousands
of her readers to
take up dressmaking
with the motto: “Sew
your own clothes,
save thousands of
dollars, and look like
a million bucks!”
We asked her to
share five favourite
patterns perfect for
a petite frame
VOGUE 8766
At 5ft 2”, dressing is about creating
a longer silhouette, and a well-
fitting dress is a petite girl’s best
friend! With bodice and skirt
FIND OU T MOR E variations, this classic dress pattern If you love Sarah’s
Learn more about how Sarah gave up is one of my favorites. It's easy to choice of orange lace
RTW fashion and see more fabulous fit and offers several variations turn to page 24 to
designer-inspired clothing on her perfect for many occasions. I’ve see more colours of
blog, www.goodbyevalentino.com. made it in all kinds of fabric, this stylish design
You can also follow her adventures including a shimmering Matelassé
as part of the Mood Sewing Network (pronounced mat-la-SAY) fabric for
www.moodsewingnetwork.com my Mother of The Bride dress.
46 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
VOGUE 9047
A great pattern for stable knits, this easy
sew is perfect for solids or prints. I’ve made
it twice in neoprene, a fabric that maintains
the shapely cut of the pattern. I’ve learned
to keep a silk organza press cloth close
by as this fabric does not like direct heat.
Otherwise neoprene is very easy to sew.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47
Faic foc
SING THE BLUES
Explore everything from seafoam to navy with our pick of beautiful blue fabric
nt y fresh!
Mi 2
1 3
FABRIC SHOPPING
1 Aqua Flamingos cotton, £11.99 per
metre www.dittofabrics.co.uk
48 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.lintondirect.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 47
metre rabbit
LS27.P47.indd 47 28/04/2016 12:41
As with the famous little rabbit and the your first call for
temptation of the mean old man's vegetable
garden, our fabrics and haberdashery items sewing
supplies
are sure to grab your attention.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 49
W E US ED
Barkweave cotton stretch denim
£ 9.90 per metre
www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk
For more information on Simple Sew patterns and to view the other
fantastic styles available in the range, visit www.simplesewpatterns.com
Amsterdam
TOTE
This appliqué tote bag finished with
machine embroidery is brimming
with cosmopolitan European charm
Project DEBBIE VON-GRABLER CROZIER
""
MATERIALS:
" 30cm grey linen
" 30cm coral bias binding
" 50cm 32-count #5106 Zweigart Murano linen
" 50cm grey crosshatch fabric
" 1m lining fabric (includes pocket linings)
" 75cm H640 Vlieseline fusible wadding
" 25cm strip Decovil I Light Vlieseline fusible interfacing
" FQ S320 Vlieseline fusible interfacing
" 18cm grey zipper
" scraps of 4 different fabrics for houses
" scraps of smaller fabrics for windows & doors
" scraps of green & grey for trees
" black & coral thread
" pale blue Kam snaps
" ribbon scrap for zipper pull (optional)
CUTTING:
From Murano fabric, cut:
Template A
:
Fuse the Murano fabric pocket piece to H640 wadding.
Using the line drawing on the template sheet and your
scraps, cut the houses and their basic architectural
details (windows, doors, fascia etc) and glue them onto
52 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
A B
C D
the Murano linen 10cm up from the bottom. of the box only. Cut the centre line, Finish top-stitching where you left off
(See Pic A.) Repeat for the trees and trunks. including the two angles at each end before and attach the handles. Repeat for
(careful not to cut the stitching) and the back, with handles 6cm in from the
Set your machine up for free-motion ‘post’ the lining through the hole. edges. Smooth out the pocket lining before
embroidery by dropping the feed dogs (refer Smooth it out and press. sewing. The handles will overlap the sides.
to your machine manual) and embroider the Top-stitch a double line of stitching across
design with black thread. (See Pic B.) Top-stitch the zipper so it sits behind the handles where they are joined to the
the window you have just made and tie bag at the 38cm mark.
Take the pocket lining and, with WST, the ribbon scrap through the zipper pull.
baste all around to keep the layers neat. Take the other piece of pocket lining and, Cut two pieces of lining and curve the
Bind the top edge with coral binding made with RST, sew it in place. top. Make patch pockets of your desired
from coral fabric or use shop-bought binding. size from the coral or grey fabric and fuse
Trim the back of the bag so that it to S320 interfacing.
Trim the pocket and add half a Kam snap matches the size and shape of the front.
set to the top centre. (See Pic C.) Take one grey linen strap piece and fold in Sew the bag outer each side and along
half lengthways WST. Iron a centre crease. the bottom with RST. Clip the corners to
Attach one coral piece to each side of Iron a piece of Decovil against the centre reduce bulk and turn right way out. Sew
the grey fabric. Use a 0.5cm seam allowance crease. Fold the raw edges in and pin. the lining the same way but leaving a gap
throughout. Fuse to H640 wadding and, Repeat for the other strap. in the base for turning out later on.
using Template B, trim around the edges
in a curved shape. The top-stitching will be done in two With RST (bag right way out, lining
halves, firstly the centre section and then inside out) pull the lining on over the
Position the pocket over the top of the ends, which will attach them at the bag outer. Poke the handles down out
the grey panel and line the bases up. same time. of the way. Sew the top curved edge right
Sew the base. You can sew the sides too. around. Clip the curve and turn the bag
Attach the other half of the Kam snap Measure 38cm in from one strap end out through the gap and close it.
set to close the pocket. and mark. Do the same on the other
end. Top-stitch between these marks
Carefully press the top edge and
Fuse the 42x45cm piece to H640 across the middle of the straps, leaving top-stitch. Attach a Kam snap set to
wadding and curve the top as before. the ends pinned to stay in place. Top- the top centre of the bag.
Place one 25x32cm lining piece to one stitch along the outside of each strap
side and work on the WS of the other. (closing them in the process) and then
twice more in the centre to create four
Measure down 3cm from the top and draw parallel lines of topstitching.
an 18x1cm box on the centre line to mark Visit our
the zipper box area. Draw a second line with Place the straps onto the bag, starting website for
angled ends for the cutting line. (See Pic D.) with the front 6cm in from the outer a fun
edges so that the strap overlaps the companion
Pin the pocket lining RST onto the seam between the coral and the grey purse project
bag back, 5.5cm down from the top in and hides the raw pocket edge.
the centre. Sew around the outer line
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 53
Top tip!
Why not try
oilcloth for a
weatherproof
version?
54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Vintage
NOT E S:
A child’s wooden hanger is the perfect size
to use inside the bag, so that you can hang
it on a hook in the kitchen or utility room
when not in use – or on the washing line
when you are hanging out the laundry.
"
MATERIALS:
" 20” floral fabric
" 20” gingham fabric
" 20” 3/8”-wide pink grosgrain ribbon
" 20” blue rickrack braid
" co-ordinating thread
" coat hanger
C D
Cut one back piece, and one top and one blue rickrack braid across the bag piece right side down on top of it. Place the
bottom front piece from the floral fabric. about 5/8” from the top of the base, with a gingham back piece right side up on top.
Repeat using the gingham fabric. length of pink grosgrain ribbon about 3/8”
below that, and machine-stitch in place. Machine-stitch all around the edge,
With RST, pin and then machine-stitch the (See Pic C.) leaving a gap of about ¾” in the centre top.
floral and gingham top pieces together along Turn RS out. Insert the coat hanger, and
the curve. Trim the seam allowance, turn RS Lay the front of the bag RS up on hand-stitch a grosgrain ribbon bow below
out, and press. (See Pic A.) your work surface, with the floral back the hook. (See Pic D.)
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 55
5 6
Sewg rm
SWOON
3
Orgaо ps
Do you find the messier and more disorganised
your sewing space becomes, the less you want to
sew? Walking into a tidy room is uplifting and
inspiring. Ashley Cramp of blog Lazy Daisy Jones
talks us through her top tips for staying ship shape!
I
find I cannot work in a mess. Even Pegboards are always a winner
though I do try my hardest to be They enable you to hang everything up
organised and tidy, I have to admit it and make everything accessible and easy
is not easy! There are several things I do to see. Plus, they look so attractive. I
that have helped me stay organised and hang everything up on mine from scissors to filing cabinet. Recently I have started to
therefore tidy in my sewing room. These crocheted pen pots. sort them into categories. It makes it
tips may help you too. so easy to quickly locate exactly what I
Label everything and am looking for and I don’t waste
Storage I mean everything! valuable sewing time sorting through
These lists always start with storage It truly helps to find things quickly. I store piles of patterns.
don’t they? Again I know from experience all my zips and trims in vintage vanity cases,
that if space is limited it may be difficult most of which are labelled. I make my labels Be imaginative with your
to fit in even more storage. Therefore, I from craft supplies and stickers. Scraps of styling and organisation
always endeavour to find attractive and ribbon always come in handy – you can tie Have fun, use anything you want as
transparent storage. I find it helps to see them onto anything. storage, raid the house and garage
what I have, my sewing treasures inspire before you buy new items. It is cheaper
me. For instance, jars on shelves sorted by Try to categorise where and and prettier!
colour are always inspiring. when you can
I keep my patterns in a large vintage turquoise Stamp your own personality
on your space
Make it yours, decorate with family
1 photos – if you have room, add a chair for
a friend to sit in so while you sew you can
2 chat. My chair is very often occupied by
the cat or the dog – they take advantage
of it when everyone else is at work
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 57
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CUSHION
Karin’s cushion is a perfect keepsake gift,
using a little one’s handprint as a template
Project & photography KARIN JORDAN LEIGH Laurel Studios
NOTES:
Finished size is 21” square A B
"
MATERIALS:
" ½ yard natural-coloured linen
" ⅔ yards red linen
" 9 different Liberty prints, 5” square or
large enough to cover a child’s hand
(handprints pictured were traced from a
five-year-old girl)
" 20” zip
" fusible web (we used Pellon
C D
805 Interfacing )
" fusible fleece
" 12 wt Aurifil thread for hand quilting (8 centre of the natural linen. Divide the square wt thread, hand-quilt the four lines. The pillow
wt Perle cotton can also be used) up into nine 5½” squares. Move the linen to front is complete.
" natural & red thread for machine sewing an ironing board and arrange the handprints
" air-erasable marker as desired. One by one, peel off the paper Place the front and back RST. Now find
" quilting or embroidery hoop backing and then fuse the hands to the linen what will be the bottom of the pillow and use
" 22” pillow insert according to the manufacturer’s instructions. a basting stitch on your machine to stitch a
line ½” away from the bottom edge. Carefully
CUTTING: Choose an appliqué stitch on the sewing press the seam open, avoiding touching the
Cut one 17½” square of natural-coloured machine and, with the natural-coloured fusible fleece with the iron. With the open seam
linen. You can also work with a larger thread, appliqué around all nine handprints. facing up, center your zip upside down on the
square of linen that can be trimmed after That’s 45 fingers and thumbs, but it goes seam. Pin along one side and sew a rectangle
the appliqué has been completed quickly! (See Pic D.) around the zip as close to the teeth as you can
Cut two 3½x17½” strips of red linen but without hitting them. Remove pins after the
Cut two 3½x22” strips of red linen If you haven’t trimmed the linen to 17½” opposite side has been stitched down.
Cut one 22” square of red linen square, do so now. Fuse the assembled
Cut two 22” squares of fusible fleece square onto the centre of one of the two Flip the pillow cover over and rip the basted
Cut nine squares of fusible interfacing large pieces of fusible fleece, taking care to keep the seam out with a seam ripper, exposing the zip
enough to cover a traced hand and slightly iron on the fabric and not the fusible fleece. as you go. Pull out the ripped threads.
smaller than the square of fabric it will be Fuse the 22” square of red linen to the second
fused to piece of fusible fleece. If at any time the iron Open the zip a few inches or you’ll be
gets gummed up by Interfacing or fusible zipped out of your new pillow!
: fleece, turn the iron down to a low setting and
Fuse one square of interfacing to the iron a dryer sheet to remove the residue. RST, pin and sew around the three
back of a fabric square according to the remaining sides of the pillow. Clip the
manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat for the rest Add the red border. Change the thread in corners, turn RS out, press seams and
of the nine squares. Make a template for the your machine to red. RST, align one of the two insert a 22” pillow form. All done!
handprints by tracing around a child’s hand 3½x17½ ” strips to the left of the 17½” square
onto a thick piece of paper or thin cardboard. and sew. Repeat for the rigt side. Carefully fuse
Cut out the shape. Place the hand template on both red strips flat onto the overhanging fusible
the paper side of the fused fabric/Interfacing fleece. Using the same method, sew the 3½
and trace. Repeat four times, flip the hand over x22” strips to the top and bottom of the pillow
W E USE D
and trace the hand onto the remaining four front and fuse. Stitch around the perimeter of Capel in red, Tana lawn, £19.95 per metre
pieces of Interfacing. Carefully cut out all nine the centre square, ⅛” into the red border. Betsy in pink, Tana lawn,
handprints. Set aside. (See pics A, B and C.) £17.95 per metre
Retrace the four lines of the central grid Claire Aude in red, Tana lawn,
£16.95 per metre
Using a quilting ruler and a Hera or air- onto the fabric using the Hera marker and
Phoebe, Tana lawn, £15.50 per metre
erasable marker, mark a 16½” square in the quilting ruler. With the quilting hoop and 12 All from www.sewbox.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 61
APRON
W E US E D
Nazca PVC Fabric in Saffron
£12.95 per metre,
www.johnlewis.com
A B
C D E
" Trim the apron body using the below Turn under a 1.5cm hem all around
MATERIALS: cutting guide the apron. Sew in place with two lines of
" 1m oilcloth stitching approximately 7mm apart.
" 4m 1”-wide webbing :
" 2 x 1” D rings Take the 40cm length of webbing and
" thread press in half. Position over the top edge of the
" sewing clips pocket and sew in place. TOP TIPS
pressing cloth
"
" walking foot or Teflon foot for your Fold under a 1.5cm hem on the remaining
FOR SEWING
sewing machine three sides of the pocket. (See Pic A.) WITH OILCLOTH
" masking/painter’s tape or glue stick
Position the pocket centrally on the apron Oilcloth tends to be very sticky so
34cm down from the upper edge. Temporarily using a walking foot or Teflon foot
NOTE: will make it easier for the fabric to
Finished size is 77cm (L) x 67cm (W)
secure in place with some masking tape
or a dab of glue stick on the pocket feed through your sewing machine.
seam allowances.
CUTTING: Always use a pressing cloth, do not
Oilcloth: Sew in place with two rows of stitching press directly on the oilcoth. Test
Cut 1 82x70cm for apron body approximately 7mm apart, close to the folded the heat of your iron on a scrap.
Cut 1 20x40cm wide for pocket edge. (See Pic B.) Start with the lowest heat and
increase slowly if necessary.
Webbing: Turn under a 1.5cm double hem on one
Cut 2 1m lengths for waist ties end of the three longer straps. Sew in place Increase stitch length a little and use
Cut 1 75cm length for neck strap across the width of the strap. a leather or microtex needle
Cut 1 10cm length for D ring loop
Cut 1 40cm length for pocket trim Thread the two D rings onto the 10cm strap and
baste the ends of the strap together. (See Pic C.)
21cm 21cm
B B
Match the raw edge of the waist tie with the
raw edge of the side of the apron at point A.
27cm
Baste in place 5mm from raw edge. (See Pic D.)
A A
55cm
Place the raw edges of the D-ring loop
1.5cm in from point B, matching raw edges.
Baste in place 5mm from raw edge. (See Pic E.)
70cm
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 63
www.akemifabrics.co.uk
SH42 (Page 33)_CM 27/03/2014 12:54 Page 33
hello@akemifabrics.co.uk
*While stocks last. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. For more details
of the fabrics on offer, go to the Sale section on the Akemi Fabrics website.
64 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
THE GIRAFFE
Meet George: he’s a good-natured giraffe, but a little shy.
A little bit awkward and gangly, he needs someone to love
him. Could that be you?
Project CHLOE OWENS All Sewn Up
Photography LOUPE IMAGES/CLAIRE RICHARDSON
Illustrations LOUPE IMAGES/GEMMA CORRELL
A B C D
E F G
" Hand-sew straight stitches around the Next, lay the main body pieces RST.
MATERIALS: perimeter using matching thread. Pin the ears to the RS of one end of the
" 1m fabric for body head gusset, with the felt inners facing
" 20cm pink cotton for the tongue Draw an eyebrow above each eye with forward. Then pin the head gusset
" black, white & pink felt scraps for the the fading fabric marker, and with black in position on the main body pieces,
eyes & ears embroidery floss (thread), chain-stitch making sure that the RS of the fabric is
" fabric glue (optional) over the lines. (See Pic A.) facing inward and the ears are hanging
" air-erasable marker down inside the body. Now, starting from
" black embroidery floss (thread) Pin each felt ear piece RST to a fabric the top of the legs where the underbody
" co-ordinating thead ear piece. Set the sewing machine to a stitching ends and taking a 1⁄2” seam
" modelling wire or pipe cleaner for small straight stitch and, taking a 1⁄2” allowance, sew around the body and up
the tail seam allowance, sew along each side, the neck to the head gusset. Sew around
" stuffing leaving an opening in the bottom. Turn one side of the gusset and fasten off. Go
" pompom (or brown yarn and thick each ear RS out and press it. Then fold back to the other side of the gusset and
card to make your own) the ears into a concertina shape, as sew around it, then continue around the
shown. (See Pic B.) rest of the head and down to the other
CUTTING: side of the underbody. (See Pic E.)
From printed fabric, cut: RST, pin the underbody pieces to the
two bodies main body pieces. Taking a 1⁄2” seam Turn everything RS out. Stuff the legs
two underbodies allowance, machine-sew each underbody and neck tightly so that they will stand up
two ears in place around the legs, leaving the top straight, but stuff the nose lightly so that
one head gusset straight edge open. (See Pic C.) the mouth can be pushed in later, then
two 10½x1½” strips for the tail slip-stitch the tummy closed. (See Pic F.)
Pin the two tail pieces RST and, taking
From pink cotton fabric cut two tongues a 1⁄2” seam allowance, machine-sew Machine-sew the tongue pieces RST,
From pink felt cut two more ears around the edges, leaving one short end leaving the straight end open. Turn the
From white felt cut the outer eyes open. Turn the tail RS out through the tongue RS out and press it. Hand-sew
From black felt cut the inner eyes opening and stuff it. Then thread a thin the tongue to the end of the nose, then
piece of modelling wire or pipe cleaner push the very end of the nose in on itself
: through the tail, which you’ll bend into to make a mouth (a stitch or two might
Glue or pin the smaller black eye circle a corkscrew shape a bit later. Pin the tail be needed to hold it in place). For the
onto the larger white eye circle, then in place, so it’s inside the giraffe’s body. finishing touch, curl the giraffe’s tail
glue or pin these onto either side of the (See Pic D.) into a corkscrew shape and hand-sew a
giraffe’s head, making sure they line up. pompom to the end. (See Pic G.)
66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
2summer
FREEessential
multi-garment
patterns
Plus
Simple Sew casual jersey
trousers pattern
Wedding dress hack by
Sewing Bee's Jenniffer Taylor!
Jamie Kemp’s expert
shirt-making tips & tricks
High street styling – sew your SIZES
own seasonal wardrobe 6-22 &
Sew a holiday beach cover up 6-14
Inside Savile Row with women’s
tailor Gormley and Gamble
EVERY
OCCASION
PRINCESS-
SEAMED
DRESS
ISSUE 7
ON SALE
THE PERFECT
SEW A SMART
SUMMER
TROUSERS 18th
AUGUST
SUMMER SUIT
NOTES:
Main fabric requirements include a B
self-lined bodice
A A
Use a ½” seam allowance unless
otherwise instructed Front
Front Bodice Back Back
Bodice Bodice Bodice
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS:
C B
Size 45” or 60” wide Contrast fabric A B
2T 1½ yard ¼ yard
3T 1½ yard ¼ yard Piping
Center
4T 1¾ yard ¼ yard Front
Piece Pocket
5 1¾ yard ¼ yard WS
6 2 yards ¼ yard
Front Pocket Pocket
8 2 yards ¼ yard
Bodice WS RS
10 2 yards ¼ yard
12 2 yards ¼ yard
C D
SIZING:
Size Chest Waist Neck to waist
Side panel
2T 20” 19” 9” Side
panel RS Side Side
3T 21” 20” 9½” panel Back Back panel
Piping between panel panel
4T 22” 21” 10”
5 23” 22” 10½” Pocket
Pocket
Pocket Pocket
6 24” 23” 11” RS
8 26” 24” 12”
E G
10 28” 25” 13” F
12 30” 26” 14”
" Cut the back bodice along these two lines. length. Note: The hem band will be cut later.
MATERIALS: (See Pic B.)
" light- to medium-weight woven fabric such Cut two pieces of piping to the same width
as cotton Measure the centre front of the bodice. as the top of the pockets but remove 1/2” of
" 3 ½” or 5/8” buttons Make a centre front pattern placket piece the cording to leave empty seam allowances
" 2 packages of piping (3 packages for sizes that is this length and 2” wide. (See Pic C.) at each end.
10 and 12)
Cut one front bodice pattern piece on the Press the top edge of each pocket ¼” to
: fold out of lining. Cut two more front bodice the WS.
Modify the front bodice as shown. (See pieces out of main fabric, mirrored and not
Pic A.) Draw a horizontal line (Line A) at the on the fold. Cut one centre front bodice Pin the piping to the WS of each pocket,
level of the bottom of the armhole. Measure piece out of main fabric. Cut two back with the folded edge of the pocket against
vertically between the neckline and Line A. bodice pattern pieces out of main fabric and the cording. Using a zipper or piping presser
Mark a point halfway between the two. Draw out of lining (mirrored). Cut two straps 12” foot, top-stitch from RS of pocket to secure
a horizontal line (Line B) at this point for the long and 4” wide. the piping in place. (See Pic D.) Pin a pocket
new neckline. Mark 2” from the bottom of the to each skirt side panel, matching the lower
bodice piece, measuring up 2” from the side For the skirt, cut one front panel that hems. (See Pic E.) Baste the pockets in place.
(not the centre front), and draw a horizontal is half of the waist measurement in width,
cutline (Line C). Cut the bodice along lines B and to the knee in length. Then cut two side Cut four pieces of piping the same length
and C. skirt panels that are one-third of the waist as the skirt panels again, trimming the cord
width and the same length. Cut two back back. With RST sandwich the piping between
Modify the back bodice. Draw a horizontal skirt panels that are one-quarter of the waist one back panel and the corresponding side
line (A) at the level of the bottom of the width plus 1” each, and knee length. panel. Sew, using a piping or zipper foot.
armhole. Mark 2” from the bottom of the Repeat this process with the other side and
bodice piece, measuring up from the bottom Cut two pockets that are the same width back panel. (See pics F and G.) Baste the
edge, and draw a horizontal cutline (Line B). as the side skirt panels and one-third of the centre back seam closed.
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 69
Fold straps in half RST and sew into tubes, Back bodice WS
then turn through. Press straps with seam on
one side. Position each strap ¾” in from the
top corner of the bodice front and baste in
place. (See Pic I.) J K
Skirt WS
Insert the zip in the centre back and
complete the seam below the zipper.
(See Pic M.) Hem band
N O
Press under the bodice lining hem 3/8” to
the WS.
Press one edge of the hem band 3/8”
Unzip the dress. With RST sew the bodice to the WS.
lining to the outer around the neckline. Lining
will extend ½” past the zipper on each side. With RST sew the hem band to the
Stitch neckline and armholes. Leave openings bottom of the skirt, matching the seam
on back bodice to insert straps; each opening with the centre back seam. (See Pic O.)
should be above the piping line on the back Press the seam toward the band.
skirt. (See Pic N.) Clip corners. Turn lining to
the inside of the dress and press. Fold the hem band to the WS,
covering the seam from the previous step
Insert the straps into the openings on the with the folded edge. On the RS stitch in
back bodice and adjust to fit. Top-stitch to the ditch of the seam, to secure in place.
secure the straps.
Stitch buttons onto centre front
Pin the folded edge of the lining over the bodice to finish.
waistline seam. On the RS of the dress, stitch
in the ditch of the waistline seam to secure
the lining, or secure with a slipstitch.
Sundressing by
Measure around the skirt bottom and add Melissa Mora,
1” for the seam allowance and cut a band £20, published by
this measurement by 8” deep out of contrast Fons and Porter
fabric. Fold RST, matching short ends, and
stitch with a ½” seam allowance.
70 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
ZOO
Create a zoo of cute animal puppets for endless hours
of fun with this easy felt tutorial
Project SIAN HAMILTON
NOTE:
Use the puppet photos to see what the
different animals’ faces look like once
completed. The elephant’s tusks are glued
to the back of the face piece in Step 3
"
MATERIALS:
Per finger puppet
" 6-strand embroidery floss skein,
to match body felt colour A B
" embroidery needle
" 10” square of tracing paper
" black permanent marker
" paper-cutting scissors
" small, sharp scissors
" 4 quilter’s clips (or clothes pegs)
" craft or fabric glue
:
MONKEY
Mark and cut out the felt pieces using sharp
scissors. From the brown felt, you will need
one monkey back, one monkey front, one
monkey head and one monkey tail. From the
cream felt, cut out one monkey face and, from
the white felt, two eyes. (See Pic A.) E F
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 73
Are you
THE STITCHER
OF THE YEAR?
A
little while ago, we headed out from Love Sewing HQ and popped
over to our lovely neighbour Janome. We had a really great chat
about everything there is to love about the sewing community
and it soon became clear that we want to celebrate everyone’s creativity.
Over some tea and biscuits (fuel for the very best of ideas) we came up
with a plan for an exciting competition – The Stitcher of the Year!
There are four categories to enter and you can submit one photo to
each for up to four chances to win.
74 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Over
£10,000
of prizes worth
£479 10 to
to be won Three 2000CPX CoverPro machines The 525S as seen on TV
win
Five 10”
tailor’s
shears
worth
£529
Three packs of
special Janome Don’t forget!
sewing machine
You can still enter our selfie
competition for a chance to win this
amazing prize bundle of sewing tools,
Five
sunshine. Get inventive! Send your pics
to letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk for
the chance to win.
machine worth
needle £150
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75
Summe r Sewathon
We’re continuing our Summer Sewathon campaign to get everyone stitching and bring you an amazing
range of discounts at your favourite fabric shops and haberdasheries
76 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77
78 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Faic foc
FANTASTIC FOXGLOVE
Take inspiration from bold florals and vibrant vintage colours with the
Foxglove collection from Cloud9
3 4
5 6
2
7 8
FABRIC SHOPPING
1 Orange Foxgloves (150307) 2 Pink Cowslips (150605)
3 Turquoise Stem Dot (150503) 4 Gold Stem Dot (150518)
5 Grey Cowslips (150650) 6 Turquoise Fox in the Foxgloves
(150703) 7 Orange Evening Primrose (150407)
8 Navy Foxgloves (150312)
To locate your nearest supplier of Cloud9, see
www.hantex/mystockist
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 79
A f
DUTTONS
FOR
BUTTONSAs Duttons for Buttons celebrates 60
sparkling years, we step behind the scenes
to learn all about this family-run business
D
uttons for Buttons has a reputation
as an Aladdin’s cave of buttons "Drusilla relished finding
and haberdashery and 2016 is unusual buttons during
a very special year for the family-owned
retailer. Held in great affection nationwide her travels abroad and
by those who sew, the Yorkshire-based firm
celebrates its diamond anniversary this brought back stunning
year. 2016 is also the 40th anniversary of the Italian enamel buttons,
Duttons for Buttons branch in Coppergate,
York, which is known as the area of the silk buttons from Portugal,
Viking settlement. Its premises are found in
a medieval building built in 1422. It has also iridescent buttons from the
been an incredible 110 years since parent former Czech Republic and
company R. Goodman & Sons opened its
doors as a trimming merchant serving the Venetian glass buttons"
tailoring industry in Leeds.
80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
daughter, Drusilla White, was the champion there is an exciting range of vintage buttons,
of expanding the business and ran the shops including Art Deco glass buttons, rare buttons
until she was in her late 80s. from the early 1930s and vintage mother-of-
pearl. Duttons also stocks a range of ribbon
Drusilla’s entry into the family business was and trimming.
unexpected. She started her working life
as an orthoptist, treating children with eye Visitors are enticed into the shops by
problems at Leeds Infirmary but when her displays of more than 12,000 different button
father passed away prematurely in 1968, she designs. Duttons also supplies buttons and
stepped in to keep Duttons for Buttons going haberdashery to theatrical and film costume
and never looked back. She never imagined departments who need authentic period
that she would have been doing it well into items. The casts of Evita, Nanny McPhee,
her 80s; running the shops was to have Captain Corelli’s Mandolin and the Pirates of the
been a temporary measure to help out her Caribbean franchise have all worn examples
mother. Earlier this summer, history repeated from its extensive vintage collection.
itself with Drusilla’s daughter inheriting the
business, vowing to keep the wonderful world As well as being the first stop for stitchers in
of buttons thriving as the fourth generation in Yorkshire and around the UK, the business Yorkshire’s Aladdin’s cave of buttons
the button-selling legacy. also has a notable international reputation. and haberdashery can be found at:
The shops in Harrogate, York and Ilkley are a
A vital part of the team of knowledgeable staff destination for visitors from all over the world
Oxford Street, Harrogate
is group manager Michelle Horton, a button while its personal button-matching service
expert in her own right who has spoken (providing a selection of samples to match HG1 1QE
locally on the subject to organisations that any swatch) is unique. Details of the Harrogate Tel: 01423 502 092
include the WI, Countrywomen’s Association, store’s mail order service can be found on the
Harrogate Museum, University of the Third website, and this adds another level of expert 3 Church Street, Ilkley
Age, the Embroiderers' Guild and the customer service.
LS29 9DR
Soroptimists, as well as antiques groups,
church groups, and lace makers. Duttons prides itself on helping its Tel: 01943 601 850
customers show personality and
The shops are a treasure trove of modern style through even the smallest details of a 32 Coppergate, York
and vintage buttons and this makes Duttons hand-sewn garment. In keeping with this it YO1 1NR
the largest button retailer in the UK. Drusilla has released a range of hessian bags that
Tel: 01904 632 042
relished finding unusual buttons during her can be decorated with much-loved buttons
travels abroad and brought back stunning – perfect for any beautiful single buttons
Italian enamel buttons, silk buttons from you own but can’t find the right project for, To learn more about Duttons for Buttons,
Portugal, iridescent buttons from the former or if you’d like to indulge in a spot of colour- including its mail order service, visit
Czech Republic and Venetian glass buttons. coordinated embellishment! www.duttonsforbuttons.co.uk
As well as a vast array of modern buttons,
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 81
T
here are many types of pockets facing. Place the facing to the one end of
that you can make but jetted the pocket lining, WS facing to RS lining,
pockets (also known as welt and stitch in place.
pockets) as found on men’s and
ladies' jackets can be one of the most Place the upper welt over the pocket
challenging for the home dressmaker. facing/lining, RS to RS, match the raw
These pockets rely on very accurate edges and machine baste together along
marking of the fabric and stitching. As the previous basting line. Repeat with
there is no hiding any dodgy stitches, I the lower welt to the lining section.
am going to show you a technique that (See Pic C.)
can be thoroughly checked prior to
cutting the jacket! Place the RS of the upper welt to
the RS of the jacket front, matching the
I advise you to practise first on some machine basting line to the upper tacked
scrap fabric if you have not made jetted line on the jacket front. Machine along
pockets before. the basting line stopping and starting
1.5cm from the ends. Trim the seam
The components on your pattern allowance down. (See Pic D.)
may differ to the pieces I am using,
but you will have a jacket front, with a Place the lower welt/lining to the
placement line marked for the pocket, jacket front, matching the tacking
two strips, called welts, a pocket bag stitches on the RS of the jacket. Push the
which may be one piece lining and one raw edge of the upper welt out of the way
piece fabric, or may be as I am showing if necessary. Machine in place over the
with a pocket facing and two pieces basting line. The machine stitches must
of lining. The jacket and welts require be exactly the length as the stitching line
fusible interfacing. on the upper welt. (See Pic E.) Trim the
seam allowance as you did before.
How to construct:
Press each welt in half lengthways On the WS of the jacket check the two
WS to WS. Machine-baste through each rows of machined stitches. They must
welt 5mm from the folded edge – if your be 1cm apart (this measurement is for
fabric is thick then this distance can be 5mm welts), exactly the same length and
increased. One of these is now an upper parallel to each other. (See Pic F.)
welt and one a lower welt. (See Pic A.)
On the WS, with very sharp scissors,
Make a row of hand tacking stitches, cut between the two rows of stitching to
either side of the placement line on the within 1cm of the ends, where you will
jacket front, to match the depth of the cut into the corners. (See Pic G.)
machined line on the welt. (See Pic B.)
Press and, while warm, push the
Neaten one long edge on the pocket pocket and welt through the slash. Pull
A B C
D E F
G H I J
out the corners and manipulate into shape. These pockets feature
Press the welts evenly within the window.
(See Pic H.) on my new pattern Honey,
now available through my
On the WS, fold the pocket facing down
website at £18.99,
behind the pocket opening. Then working
from the RS fold back the jacket to expose the www.sewwardrobe.co.uk.
end of the welts. Machine vertically across Love Sewing readers
them to secure the ends. (See Pic I.)
can insert the code
LOVE
Your pocket is now almost complete. (See
Pic J.) Sew around the pocket bag to keeping
your jacket front out of the way.
Alison
at the checkout for
10% discount
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CIRCLE DOTS
These marks indicate construction details,
such as zipper position, pleating, or the
PATTERN CUTTING LINE end-of-stitching line, as set out in the
Each line relates to different size for the instructions. Some pattern companies will
garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.
pattern sheet so you can either follow a single
cutting line throughout or blend carefully GRAINLINE
between sizes to achieve a better fit. The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on
grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that
it can hang, move and stretch correctly.
BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The grainline must always be parallel to the
The placement for a button is marked with an
selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.
X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked
with an edged line.
TUCKS/PLEATS
Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern
pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment.
Follow directional arrows where given.
DARTS
Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping,
usually located at the bust, waist and neck.
ABBREVIATIONS
SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)
Every project you sew has a set seam allowance.
This is the distance between where you sew
and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an
invisible line around each pattern piece. These
lines are occasionally included on vintage
patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance
NOTCHES
in order for the pieces to line up correctly.
Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch
Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your
location, within the seam allowance. These marks
instructions in case smaller allowances are being
are used to match pieces together before sewing.
used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam
LAYOUT DIAGRAMS allowance to the right side of the presser foot.
These explain how to lay each piece onto
the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)
fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the Instructions for placing right sides of fabric
envelope. Remember to follow along with together will be written as RST.
LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE
the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take This indicates exactly where to shorten or
care with directional prints; you wouldn’t WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)
lengthen the pattern piece or garment to
want a floral print top with all the flowers Instructions for fusing interfacing to the
make changes for improved fit.
upside down. wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.
MACHINE REVIEW:
Bernina
This month we’re looking at four gorgeous top-of-
the-range machines from Swiss company Bernina
BEST FOR RELIABILITY
1008S
This reliable machine has been around for many years, and remains
a firm favourite of sewists of all abilities. Ease of use makes the 1008S
accessible to beginners, but don’t be deceived by its simplicity!
This machine eschews flashy mod cons in favour of tried and tested
quality, with every unit produced to a high standard that translates
into longevity, reliability and fantastic value for money.
£679
The 1008S comes with 17 different stitches, including a buttonhole
and two decorative stitches, and is capable of handling tougher and
thicker fabric without breaking a sweat. It is also a fantastic choice for
freehand embroidery when teamed with a freehand embroidery foot.
BEST FOR A HIGH BEST FOR CREATIVE SEWING BEST FOR AVID
STREET FINISH 350 PE DRESSMAKERS
1150 MDA This sleek, computerised machine is a L220
Bernina’s smart overlocker features its patented A good coverstitch machine is a
streamlined and versatile precision tool,
micro thread control (MTC) system, which godsend for avid dressmakers, creating
with an extensive stitch library of 85 pre-
makes for wonderfully precise sewing. A simple perfectly flat joining seams that are
programmed stitches, consisting of 20 utility
control dial allows you to set the over-edge super comfortable to wear. This is great
stitches, 2 buttonholes, 11 quilting stitches
length of your thread, meaning you can achieve for sewing sportswear, for instance –
and a massive 52 decorative stitches. This
a perfect seam for all materials and stitch types creating elasticised edges is a breeze –
variety makes the 250 perfectly suited to
with ease. That’s not the only feature of the and the three-thread narrow coverstitch
everyday makes and mends as well as more
1150 MDA that’s kitted out for handling a range is perfect for knit and jersey fabric.
intricate and specialised functions – the
of projects – thanks to its high cutting force, The L220 can also be used to create
ideal all-rounder for creative sewists.
the machine’s knife drive can cope well with all decorative topstitch seams for a range
kinds of fabric, from heavy to super lightweight. of garments.
Pick between different stitches with the
easy direct selection function on the 350’s
The benefits of Bernina’s experience and This machine’s fuss-free automatic chain
LCD display. This is a sturdy machine built
knowledge come through in the ergonomic looper threader means threading is quick
to last, with solid construction and top-
design of this machine, which is developed and simple, and in fact the L220 is an all
class functionality, and is a perfect machine
with you, the sewist, at the forefront. As a result round user-friendly model, sharing the
to grow and challenge yourself with, as it is
you’ll find this model a joy to use, as well as simple and effective ergonomic design
more than capable of accommodating your
loving the results it will help you to produce. that characterises Bernina machines.
needs as they develop.
Venn tailoring
Stockists of Elna and Singer Sewing Machines
Free machine training with instore purchases.
www.venntailoring.com
Tel: 02920388810
14 Llandaff Road, Cardiff, CF11 9NJ
“Fabric Sale”
For Quilting and Craft Projects
Sunday 11th September 2016
10am to 4pm
De Ferrers Academy
Fabric,
Haberdashery, Kits, Dove Campus
Crafts, Embroidery. Harehedge Lane
Come and see Burton on Trent
all the stalls for a Staffordshire, DE13 0AS
bargain or two.
Refreshments FREE ENTRY
FREE PARKING
For information or to book a stand email
Jenny or Sue on Materialgirls16@outlook.com
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87
88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89
PATTERNS
those wishing to improve their skills.
Beautiful fabrics for your handmade clothes
www.claire-tyler.com www.bloomsburysquarefabrics.com
07771882903 07919307844
claire@claire-tyler.com victoria@bloomsburysquarefabrics.com
@ClairesThreads @BloomsSqFabric
FABRIC
2/5 The Administration Building, The Wharf Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9PX
A new kind of
A warm and friendly welcome is guaranteed sewing shop
Open Monday - Saturday 10.00 - 4.00
A huge range of hand-picked fabrics
Fabrics from: Makower, Nutex, Lewis & Irene, Fabric Freedom, Time-
less Treasures, Springs Creative, Disney, John Louden and more!! Quality quilting supplies
Sewgirl
Sewing Gift Kits Workshops for Adults & Children One-to-one Sessions
www.sewgirl.co.uk / info@sewgirl.co.uk
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 91
ea de r DISCOUNTS &
R
offs GIVEAWAYS
Pretty sewing goodies, patterns to win and a
super discount to fill your fabric stash
25%
discount on lace at
Get 10% off
www.drago
co.uk when
at
nflyfabrics
you enter
.
the code LO
White Tree Fabrics by 31st Augu
VE29
st!
If you like the look of this month’s
stunning Grace dress and skirts
and want to get started sewing
your own as soon as possible,
get yourself over to
www.whitetreefabrics.com where
you can get a huge 25% off all lace
available across the site, and trust
us when we say that the selection
you have to choose from is
impressive, so you can make your
92 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
CODE: LOVESEW
Reads of Winchester
Suppliers of sewing machines.
Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar
Both new and reconditioned.
Shop, Sew, Create Many machines on display Sewing Workshops based in Sandbach,
All in One Space demonstrations available. Cheshire Classes available:-
in the Heart Of Leicester
Sales service repair ‘Beginners and Advanced Classes’
Workshops • Fabrics ‘Get to grips with Zips’
haberdashery supplies
• Haberdashery • ‘Make a Tote Bag’
‘Get creative making a Cushion’
St.Martin’s Square
Tel 01962 850950
Contact Mandy on 07772684907 or
Leicester LE1 5EW 1 St Thomas Street, email: info@sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk
CraftySewandSo.com Winchester, hants SO23 9HE www.sew-stitch-creat8.co.uk
info@CraftySewandSo.com Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm 2 May Cottages, Sandbach, Cheshire CW11 4SD
To advertise please
1956 - 2016 contact Jane on
Visit us at...
0844 826 0613 or
12,000 button designs
email jane.bates@
Haberdashery, ribbons, trimmings,
for s e w i n g w o r k s h o p s ,
practicalpublishing.co.uk
needlecrafts and lots more
For mail order Duttons for Buttons, Oxford St. fabrics & haberdashery
Harrogate HG1 1QE 1 1 6 Castle Stre e t, Hinck ley,
Tel. 01423 502092 Lei c es te rshire , L E10 1DD
e: michelle@duttonsforbuttons.co.uk 0 1 4 5 5 6 9 8 0 3 4 w w w. t h e s e w i n g c a f e . c o . u k
www.duttonsforbuttons.co.uk
www.facebook.com/DuttonsforButtons
Personal shoppers welcome Harrogate, York and Ilkley
O ADVERTISE O
94 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
Hi there! How are you today and what’s fabric with big and bold colours but we What are the best and most challenging
going on in the shop? also like vintage knick knacks, such as things about running a fabric shop?
We are great! Since we moved to our new old bobbins, vintage sewing machines, The best thing about running a fabric shop
shop back in February, things are getting crockery and old dressmaking patterns. is that I can pick and choose fabric to my
better and better. We have expanded the Everything, from fabric to haberdashery heart’s content. I love being able to share
range of fabric and haberdashery that is arranged in rainbow order. We my love of sewing with my customers by
we stock and we also have a dedicated also have many project samples helping them with their fabric selection,
workshop space too, where we run regular dotted around the shop to inspire troubleshooting their projects and teaching
workshops in quilting, dressmaking and our customers. in various sewing and craft workshops.
other crafts.
Which fabrics do you stock? Running a shop is not without challenges,
Tell us a bit about how Purple Stitches Any personal favourite brands I have two young sons that require my
came to be or collections? constant attention (our shop is very child
Purple Stitches was started as a side We love Dashwood Studio, a friendly because of them!) as well as a
business to my handmade soft furnishing quintessential British brand, and we demanding part-time job as a pharmacist.
and homeware business four years ago. stock almost all of its collections. We Running the shop is my way of relaxing
We were selling off the excess fabric back also collect low-volume fabric too with and I love every minute of it. I’m always
then. Soon, we were invited to set up shop over 30 bolts currently in our collection. looking out for new ideas to bring the best
within a vintage shop in North Hampshire. I can’t really make up my mind about products and services to my customers.
Armed with 10 bolts of fabric from my own my favourite, it changes every time Nothing makes me happier than happy
stash, Purple Stitches was born. It has since something new comes in. My current children and satisfied customers.
taken over and become the main stream of favourite is Millefleur by Cathy Nordström.
our business. Looking back, it has been an I have a few dressmaking projects already Finally, is there anything exciting
interesting and fun ride. planned for this collection. coming up that you’d like to tell our
readers about?
What can customers expect when Tell us a bit about the workshops We are starting our very first Block of the
they step through the doors? you run at the shop Month project in early September, and you
A bright, modern and airy space with We run a great variety of workshops from can sign up for this now. It’s based on the
vintage charm. We specialise in modern sewing machine basics to intermediate Gravity Quilt by Jaybird Quilts using Kona
quilting, catering for sewists with different Solids. Our monthly subscription clubs will
skill levels. We are currently running also be available soon. More details will be
classes in beginner’s patchwork, hand announced on our website in due course.
embroidery and beginner's dressmaking,
as well as Christmas sewing workshops.
We also run Sewcial Evenings on the Purple Stitches, Unit 35, Basepoint
second and fourth Thursday of every Business Centre
month, providing a fun and relaxing Basepoint Enterprise Centre,
environment for sewing and fabric Stroudley Road
enthusiasts to indulge in their passion Basingstoke, Hampshire RG24 8UP
and share their knowledge. www.purple-stitches.com
07900 828431
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95
T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E
ShaThennon collection
DE 4-IN
SIG -1
N
YOUR FREE
DRESS & TOP
SHORTS & TROUSERS
TOP
Presenting the Shannon collection! This FABRIC SUGGESTIONS
pattern
pack includes your new staple T-shirt
dress Trousers and shorts: medium-weight
and top pattern plus stylish sailor trousers wovens;
and cotton, denim, and linen
preppy nautical shorts. The pull-on jersey
dress Dress and top: cotton and viscose jersey,
and top features grown-on sleeves with and
sleeve ponte de roma knit
MULTI-
TROUSERS
GARMENT
2.25m 1.7m
12
The
41½”
Shannon
50” 37” 47½” 18 2.25m 2.25m 2.5m 2.1m
20 47½”
PATTERN
43½” 52” 39” 49½” 20 2.25m 2.25m 2.5m 2.1m
Trouser inseam: 29”
collection
Create your perfect capsule wardrobe
with this multi-garment pattern
The Shannon
www.simplesewpatterns.com info@simplesewpatterns.com
27/05/2016 15:34
4-in-1 Collection
Presenting the Shannon collection!
This pattern pack includes your new
staple T-shirt dress and top, plus
stylish sailor trousers and preppy
nautical shorts. The pull-on jersey
dress and top features grown-on
sleeves with sleeve and neckline
bindings, and a topstitched hem.
The wide-leg trousers have slash
pockets, a side zipper and sewn-on
buttons, plus the shorts have rolled-
Wo r t h
£12.50!
PLUS! CLEVER TUTORIALS FROM ELISALEX DE CASTRO PEAKE L TOP TIPS FROM WENDY WARD
96 www.lovesewingmag.com
EASY-TO-SEW RUCKSACK
SEE PAGE
36 TO
SUBSCRIBE
IDE
Inspiring dressmaking, JANOME SEWING MACHINE GU
accessories and home projects:
FREE
• Magical Mermaid doll
• Off-the-shoulder Sutton dress
36-PAGE
• Baby’s Turtle rattle
• Easy-to-sew rucksack
T
• Pelican appliqué T-shirt SUPPLEMEN
• Jersey sewing tips from
Colette Patterns
• The ultimate guide to pattern
matching stripes
• The history of nautical style
D EXPERT GUIDANCE FROM CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE L IN-DEPTH TECHNIQUES FROM ALISON SMITH MBE
*All contents subject to change.
www.lovesewingmag.com 97
MATERIALS:
" 7x5" gingham fabric for sachet front
" 7x5" polka dot fabric for sachet back
" fat eighth floral print for dress
form appliqué
" fat eighth white print for oval
appliqué foundation
" ½ yard cotton lace or rickrack
" ¼ yard cotton tape for hanging loop print and cut out. Fuse the stand
" scrap of brown print fabric for and top onto the back of the brown
dress form stand print fabric and cut out. Peel off the
" French laundry tape or scrap ribbon paper backing and position the dress
" fusible web form and stand on white oval fabric (see
" polyester fiberfill photos for placement). Press in place
" ¼ cup dried lavender buds with a hot iron.
" 2 3" squares of muslin for the lavender
" cardstock for the template appliqué Using co-ordinating thread, sew around
" air-erasable marker the shapes staying close to the edge.
98 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk
www.hornfurniture.co.uk
Potentially huge surface, fully open
Hobby Table
(181cm/71¼ins by 100cm/39½ins)
or half open for smaller projects–
the choice is yours!
Cupboards for storage both sides—one
Need space to create?
side with an adjustable shelf and the
other fitted with removable baskets.
Whether you’re a Sewer or Quilter...
Super sturdy! Extra stable construction
with a double legged leaf support.
£599
to move from room to room.
Cupboards both
sides!
Ideal for any use!
87cm/
34¼ins
Horn
r ran
m e s ee ou xh ib ition.
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Possibly the best scissors you’ll ever get to use! to fin
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scissors….. a perfect companion for your new table. www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 99
(Pease note: The sewing machine and accessories are not included)
MC14000
This long arm combined sewing and
embroidery machine has many of the
features found on our top of the line
Memory Craft 15000 for sewing,
embroidery, quilting and craftwork.
MC9900
The Memory Craft 9900 is a combined
sewing and embroidery machine. It
offers lots of powerful features for
sewing as well as professional-style
embroidery at home. It also has 3
inter-changeable coloured panels
to personalise your machine.
MC500E
The Memory Craft 500E is a dedicated
embroidery only machine and offers
professional-style embroidery at home,
capable of designs up to 200 x 280mm.
It’s easy to embellish garments,
furnishings and accessories.
The
100 world’s leading
www.lovesewingmag.co.uk sewing machine manufacturer