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Abstract
Purpose – In recent years, consumers are moving toward purchasing green cosmetics instead of
chemical one. Plenty of cosmetics products are banned globally due to the usage of poisonous substances
such as triphenyl phosphate and petroleum. As such, it is needed to shift the conventional purchase
behavior to green purchase behavior (GPB) to reduce the negative impact on the environment and health.
This study aims to investigate the factors that affect GPB in the context of cosmetics products purchase.
Additionally, this study examines the moderating role of electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM) in influencing
such green behavior.
Design/methodology/approach – This study used value-belief-norm (VBN) theory and elaboration
likelihood model as a theoretical basis. By using judgmental sampling techniques, a total of 318 usable
responses were gathered through online survey. The structural equation modeling approach using partial
least square (SmartPLS, version 3.7) technique was used to test the study hypotheses.
Findings – Results reveal that altruistic value and hedonic value both positively affect pro-environmental
beliefs, which eventually affect consumers’ personal norms. It is found that hedonic value has a greater
influence on pro-environmental belief than altruistic value. Additionally, personal norm also exerts significant
influence on GPB. Data also support the mediating role of pro-environmental belief and personal norm.
Moreover, the multidimensional eWOM moderates the relationship between personal norm and GPB.
Practical implications – The findings from this study provide valuable insights for marketers,
academicians and practitioners about the drivers of consumers’ green cosmetics purchase behavior. It will
enable marketers to develop better strategies for the green market segment.
Social implications – The study findings also contribute to the social aspects by understanding
consumers’ purchase behavior toward green cosmetics products. It ultimately promotes to consider a
healthier lifestyle and to be concerned about environmental well-being.
Originality/value – This study is the first to introduce the eWOM as a moderator in the VBN theory. International Journal of
Pharmaceutical and Healthcare
Moreover, this study contributes to the existing body of knowledge in the field by examining few new Marketing
linkages; more specifically, considering pro-environmental belief as to the mediator between “hedonic value © Emerald Publishing Limited
1750-6123
and personal norm,” as well as the mediating effect of personal norm in the relationship between DOI 10.1108/IJPHM-02-2019-0017
IJPHM “pro-environmental belief and GPB.” Moreover, this is a pioneer study to consider eWOM as a
multidimensional construct rather than unidimensional, which is new in green marketing literature.
Keywords Green purchase behaviour, Values, Pro-environmental belief, Personal norm, eWOM,
Cosmetic product, Value orientation, Green cosmetics industry
Paper type Research paper
Introduction
Due to the environmental pollution, the notion of sustainability is now in the forefront (Chua
et al., 2019; Quoquab et al., 2019). It is argued that the green purchase behavior (GPB) can be
considered as one of the major contributors to environmental sustainability (Joshi and
Rahman, 2016). Indeed, there is a need to have a paradigm shift of consumers’ purchase
preferences and behavior toward green products to reduce the negative impact on the
environment (Quoquab and Mohamad, 2017). Thus, understanding the GPB in regard to
environmental issues is crucial to minimize the negative impact of high chemical product
consumption (Yadav and Pathak, 2017).
Although the environmental issues are well-known globally, not all consumers exhibit GPB
in their day-to-day activities (Joshi and Rahman, 2016; Quoquab and Mohamad, 2019). Studies
found that a positive attitude toward green product purchases does not lead to GPB all the time
(Bruschi et al., 2015; Tanner and Kast, 2003; Vermeir and Verbeke, 2006, 2008). Similarly,
though most consumers hold positive intentions toward green product purchases, some of
them still refuse to purchase it (Boulstridge and Carrigan, 2000; Carrington et al., 2010, 2014). It
is found that in the developing country like Malaysia, many consumers do not purchase green
products even though they understand the benefits of it (Quoquab et al., 2018; Rahbar and
Wahid, 2011). It is also the case in cosmetics products purchase, which calls for research
attention to understand the GPB of cosmetics industry consumers. However, there is a lack of
studies that examined consumers’ GPB from the perspective of cosmetics industry. The present
study is such an effort to address this gap.
According to the Ministry of Health Malaysia, Malaysian market has been facing serious
problem on the dumping of chemical cosmetics that contain toxic ingredients such as
triphenyl, phosphate, petroleum, propyl paraben, phthalates, avobenzone, mercury, tretinoin
and hydroquinone that pose serious negative effects on consumers’ body and their lives
(Abdullah, 2018). Although the global market witnessed the rise of environmental
consciousness among the consumers at large (Kautish and Sharma, 2018; Mishal et al., 2017),
the issue of purchasing illegal cosmetics has been increasing. In 2016, more than 300 websites
were submitted for sanctions and closure and more than 12,000 cosmetic products were
declared as poisonous by the Ministry of Health Malaysia (Abdullah, 2018). The uncontrolled
illegal cosmetics sales become more prevalent because of the flexibility of social media, which
becomes a primary media in promoting cosmetics products without having any specific
restrictions. In addition, the desperate intention of consumers to look beautiful in a short
period of time creates high demand for such chemical cosmetics (Idzham, 2017).
The rapid proliferation of social media has become increasingly influential in changing the
buying behavior of consumers (Wang, 2017). It assists in forming consumers’ opinion and
contributes to the electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM) to a great extent. Recently, the role of
eWOM has been widely acknowledged by consumers to seek other consumers’ opinions or to
express their own purchase experience. The influence of eWOM in making purchase decisions
has been explored by past researchers (Jalilvand and Samiei, 2012; Shang et al., 2017; Vahdati
and Nejad, 2016). However, the moderating role of eWOM in the relationship between personal
norm and GPB is yet to be examined. This moderating effect is crucial, as many consumers are
looking for social networking sites such as Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and the like to seek Green
opinion regarding the products before making the purchase decision. purchase
The value-belief-norm (VBN) norm theory provides meaningful understanding in forming
individuals’ environmentally significant behavior (Chua et al., 2016; Stern, 2000). Past studies that
behavior
used VBN theory have considered biospheric, altruistic and egoistic values as the antecedents of
environmental belief (Choi et al., 2015; Lopez-Mosquera and Sanchez, 2012; Nguyen et al., 2016)
and ignored considering the hedonic value. Additionally, the relationship between personal norm
and environmental citizenship behavior (Chua et al., 2019), non-activist behavior in the public
sphere (Aasen and Vatn, 2018), organizational behavior (Ture and Ganesh, 2018) and private
sphere behavior (Hartmann et al., 2018; Stern, 2000) are examined. However, little has been
known about the relationship between personal norms and consumers’ GPB. Taking into
consideration these gaps in the existing literature, the present study aims to examine:
hedonic and altruistic values as the predictors of pro-environmental belief (PEB);
pro-environmental belief as to the predictor of personal norm (PN); and
personal norm as the antecedent of GPB.
This study makes some useful contributions to the existing body of literature. First, this stud
considers eWOM as a moderator in the VBN theory, which is yet to be tested. Second, the
eWOM construct is considered as multidimensional, which is comparatively new in the green
marketing literature. Third, this study considered the hedonic value in relation to the VBN
theory, which was ignored in past studies in environmental studies. Fourth, this study tested
pro-environmental belief as a mediator between “hedonic value and personal norm,” which is
also new in the literature. The rest of the paper is organized as follows. In the next section,
relevant literature is reviewed and the conceptual framework is developed. Next, the adopted
methodology is discussed followed by the results, findings, and discussion. Finally, a
conclusion is made and implications, limitations and future research directions are highlighted.
Theoretical underpinning
Theory of value-belief-norm
The VBN theory is developed based on value theory, a new environmental paradigm (NEP)
perspective and the norm-activation theory (Stern, 2000). This theory posits that individuals
who hold high value toward other species tend to be more concerned about the surroundings
that cause threat to valuable objects. Thus, personal values are considered as the first step of
pro-environmental behavior. The environmental values are based on self-transcendent value
and self-enhancement value (Schwartz, 1977). Generally, altruism value and biospheric
value are classified as self-transcendence values, which exert positive effect on personal
norm, whereas, the self-enhancement value (i.e. egoistic value) displays negative influence
on personal norm (Nordlund and Garvill, 2002).
The VBN theory contributes to understanding the effect of beliefs [NEP, awareness of
consequences (AC) and ascription of responsibility (AR)] toward the personal norm. The
elements of personal norm and value orientation is important in social movements because Green
of their organized effort to consider others’ needs (Stern et al., 1999). More specifically, purchase
personal norm is being activated by individuals’ beliefs of NEP, AC and AR, where the
awareness of the environmental situation (or deterioration) threatens individuals’ personal
behavior
values and make them react to the threats. This kind of beliefs produce general
predisposition that influences personal norm, and thus, directly encourage pro-
environmental behavior (Stern, 2000).
The VBN theory suggests that personal norm is the major basis for individuals’ general
predispositions to act environmentally. Furthermore, Black et al. (1985) suggested that the
formation of pro-environmental behavior is influenced by the values and the causal chain of
specific beliefs and personal norms. Thus, the major elements of VBN theory are derived
from the integration of values on environmentalism that affects a set of beliefs, which, in
turn, shapes the personal norm and creates predisposition to respond to the environment.
Guided by this theory, the present study considers altruistic value and hedonic value as the
antecedents of pro-environmental belief and assumes that personal norm is the function of
pro-environmental belief, which eventually lead to consumers’ GPB.
H1. Altruistic value has a positive effect on green cosmetics consumers’ pro-
environmental beliefs.
Hedonic value can be defined as the value that individuals hold based on the subject of
experience of fun and playfulness (Babin et al., 1994). In recent studies, hedonic value is
identified as the strongest factor in forming consumers’ attitudes in personal care products
as compared to other values such as health, safety and environmental values (Ghazali et al.,
2017). In support of this view, Werff and Steg (2016) stated that hedonic value is the most
important predictor of belief (AC). It is suggested that hedonic value exerts a significant
influence on organic food consumption behavior where the feeling of enjoyment affects
consumers’ food choices (Bauer et al., 2013). Similarly, past studies confirmed that the
consumption of organic foods among Italian consumers increased because of the hedonic
value (Naspetti and Zanoli, 2009). In the context of shopping experience, it is found that
hedonic value has a significant influence on impulse buying behavior (Dey and Srivastava,
2017).
Prior research studies have examined the relationship between hedonic value and
particular beliefs such as problem awareness and NEP (Lind et al., 2015; Werff and Steg,
2016). However, there is a dearth of research that has examined the relationship between
hedonic value and pro-environmental belief. Thus, considering this gap, the following
relationship is hypothesized:
Green
H2. Hedonic value has a positive effect on green cosmetics consumers’ pro- purchase
environmental beliefs. behavior
H4. Personal norm has a positive effect on consumers’ green cosmetics purchase
behavior.
H5. Pro-environmental belief mediates the relationship between altruistic value and
green cosmetics consumers’ personal norms.
The mediating effect of trust has found to be a significant mediator in the relationship
between customer orientation and repurchase intention (Izogo, 2016). In the environmental
study, the mediating effect of environmental beliefs (NEP, AC and AR) between value
orientations (biospheric, altruistic and egoistic value) and the personal norm has been
studied (Chen, 2015; Kiatkawsin and Han, 2017). Nonetheless, there is a dearth of research
that studied the mediating effect of pro-environmental belief in the relationship between
hedonic value and personal norm. Therefore, considering this gap, the following relationship
is hypothesized:
H6. Pro-environmental belief mediates the relationship between hedonic value and
green cosmetics consumers’ personal norms.
H8. The role of eWOM moderates the relationship between personal norms and
consumers’ green cosmetics purchase behavior.
Conceptual framework
The proposed relationships among the study variables are shown in Figure 1.
Altruistic
Value
Pro-
Personal Green
environmental
Norm Purchase
belief
Behavior
Hedonic eWOM
Value • Opinion seeking Figure 1.
• Opinion Giving Proposed conceptual
• Opinion Passing
framework
IJPHM Methodology
Survey and data collection
To test the study hypotheses, a survey was designed. To ensure the adequacy and
suitability of the items to measure its relevant constructs, the questionnaire was subject to
content validity with the help of three academics from a reputed public university in
Malaysia. To ascertain face validity, 10 doctoral students helped to fill up the questionnaire
and gave their feedback about the clarity and readability of the questionnaire. The
questionnaire was also piloted.
The data were collected from individuals who had experience in purchasing cosmetics
products such as skin care products, hair care products, bath products, fragrance products,
makeup products, personal cleanliness, oral hygiene products and manicuring and
pedicuring products. A web-based survey was used to collect the data for this study. Google
Docs was used to build the online questionnaire and distributed the web link via green
cosmetic providers’ Facebook pages and through personal contacts of the researchers. A
non-probability sampling technique, more specifically, judgmental sampling was used. To
obtain the right participant a screening question was used i.e. “Do you purchase green
cosmetics products?” The required sample size was determined based on Hair et al.’s (1998)
recommendation i.e. to have 10 times observation as the number of variables to be analyzed.
Accordingly, the required sample size for this study supposed to be 28 10 = 280. In total,
340 responses were received over a two-month period, which exceeds the minimum required
number of the responses. In total, 22 cases were deleted because of outlier and straight-lining
answers, which yielded 318 usable responses to proceed to analyze the data.
Measurement
All measures used in this research were adapted from previous studies with minor
modifications to reflect the context of this study. A five-point Likert scale ranging from 1
(strongly disagree) to 5 (strongly agree) was used. Three dimensions were used to measure
eWOM, namely, opinion seeking (3 items), opinion giving (3 items) and opinion passing (3
items). This three-dimensional scale to measure e-WOM was adapted from Yoon (2015).
GPB was measured via five items adapted from Khare (2015) and pro-environmental belief
was measured by using three items adapted from Kim et al. (2015). The altruistic value was
measured by a three-item scale adapted from Izagirre-Olaizola et al. (2015), whereas, the
hedonic value was measured by a five-item scale adapted from (Ghazali et al., 2017).
Conversely, personal norm was measured by using a three-item scale from Khare (2015).
bias. For Procedural remedy, this study ensured the anonymity and confidentiality of the
participants, the questionnaire was validated (content and face validity) to avoid vague and
difficult questions (Podsakoff et al., 2003). In regard to the statistical procedure, Harman’s
single-factor test was used (Podsakoff et al., 2003). The result of principal component factor
analysis revealed that the first factor explained 40.992 per cent of the total variance,
confirming that common method bias was not a serious issue in this research.
IJPHM Data analysis and results
This study used partial least squares-structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM) to test the
relationships developed in this research. As this study is exploratory in nature and aims to
maximize the explained variance in the dependent variable, the used of PLS-SEM is justified
(Hair et al., 2014). As suggested by literature, two stages approach was used to examine the
theoretical model. First, the measurement model was assessed in terms of convergent and
discriminant validity and internal consistency reliability followed by assessing the structure
model in term of its explanatory power and predictive accuracy (Anderson and Gerbing,
1988; Hair et al., 2014; Mohammad et al., 2018).
Before analyzing the data in SmartPLS, this study used SPSS version 24 to confirm the
multivariate assumptions in terms of normality, multicollinearity and outliers. First, the
normality of the data were examined based on skewness and kurtosis values. The skewness
value ranged from 0.249 to 0.666 and the kurtosis value ranged from 0.016 to 0.666.
According to Hair et al. (2014), skewness and kurtosis values within 61 confirm the
normality of the data. Second, we examined the presence of outliers, which represent an
observation(s) that deviate markedly from other observations because of high or low scores
(Hair et al., 2010). Researchers demonstrated that outliers can violate the normality and can
lead to Types I and II errors (Kline, 2005). As a rule of thumb, outliers exist when the cases
have standard scores greater than 63.29 (Tabachnick and Fidell, 2001). In this study, five
cases identified as outliers and were removed. Third, multicollinearity issue was examined
based the variance inflation factor (VIF). The VIF value of lower than 5 is denoting no
multicollinearity issue in this study (Hair et al., 2014).
Measurement model
The mean and standard deviation of all constructs are shown in Table II. All variables were
measured using a five-point Likert scale ranging from 1 (strongly disagree) to 5 (strongly
agree). The outcomes revealed that the mean values of all variables exceeded the midpoint of
the scale i.e. 3 and range from 3.173 to 4.466, indicating a moderate to high perception
toward all variables. The measurement model was tested in term of its validity and
reliability. The reliability of the model was assessed based on factor loadings, Cronbach’s
alpha (CA) and composite reliability (CR) (Henseler et al., 2009; Tan et al., 2017). In Table II,
all factors showed loadings of more than 0.7, CA > 0.7 and CR > 0.7, thus confirming the
reliability of the measurement model at the item and construct levels. Convergent validity
was examined based on average variance extracted (AVE), which represents the amount of
variance that the construct can explain in its respective indicators (Henseler et al., 2016).
AVE greater than 0.50 indicates the construct shared substantial variance with its
respective items (Henseler et al., 2016). In Table II, all constructs have AVE values greater
than 0.50, which confirm the convergent validity of all constructs. Discriminant validity was
established based on Fornell and Larcker (1981) suggestion i.e. the square root of the AVE
must be greater than all the correlations in row and column. As demonstrated in Table III,
the diagonal values of all constructs exceeded the off-diagonal values in row and column for
same construct, which ascertain the discriminate validity.
Structural model
The assessment of the structural model was decided based on several criteria including
explanatory power of the model (R2), path coefficient ( b ) and their corresponding t-values,
effect size (f 2) and predictive relevance of the model (Q2) (Hair et al., 2014). According to Cohen
(1988) R2 values of 0.26, 0.13 and 0.02 are, respectively, described as substantial, moderate and
weak. The results of the present study revealed that altruistic value and hedonic value
Construct Items Loadings M SD a (> 0.7) CR (> 0.7) AVE (> 0.5)
Green
purchase
AV AV1 0.858 4.329 0.569 0.724 0.844 0.644 behavior
AV2 0.786
AV3 0.760
GPB GPB1 0.535 3.994 0.662 0.826 0.880 0.600
GPB2 0.868
GPB3 0.845
GPB4 0.774
GPB5 0.805
HV HV1 0.851 4.272 0.638 0.922 0.942 0.763
HV2 0.864
HV3 0.899
HV4 0.878
HV5 0.875
PEB PEB1 0.835 4.466 0.526 0.886 0.930 0.816
PEB2 0.937
PEB3 0.935
PN PN1 0.884 4.406 0.516 0.827 0.897 0.745
PN2 0.912
PN3 0.789
OG OG1 0.931 3.262 0.971 0.924 0.952 0.868
OG2 0.933
OG3 0.932
OP OP1 0.907 3.173 0.985 0.906 0.941 0.841
OP2 0.935
OP3 0.908
OS OS1 0.935 3.531 0.963 0.931 0.956 0.877 Table II.
OS2 0.951
Mean, standard
OS3 0.923
deviation, loading,
Notes: M = Mean; SD = Standard deviation; a = Cronbach’s alpha; CR = Composite reliability; AVE = Cronbach’s alpha, CR
Average variance extracted and AVE
AV GPB HV OG OP OS PEB PN
AV 0.802
GPB 0.643 0.774
HV 0.711 0.649 0.874
OG 0.353 0.440 0.452 0.932
OP 0.326 0.445 0.403 0.788 0.917
OS 0.258 0.324 0.313 0.675 0.614 0.937
PEB 0.562 0.492 0.596 0.169 0.147 0.080 0.903
Table III.
PN 0.600 0.530 0.668 0.283 0.233 0.153 0.789 0.863
Discriminate validity
Note: Diagonals represent the square root of the average variance extracted while off-diagonal represent result using Fornell–
the correlations Larcker criterion
Standard Standard
Hypotheses Relationships beta error t-value LL UP Decision R2 f2 Q2
Table IV. H1 AV ! PEB 0.28 0.09 3.094 0.119 0.473 Supported 0.394 0.064 0.302
Structural model H2 HV ! PEB 0.397 0.087 4.565 0.205 0.554 Supported 0.128
result (direct H3 PEB ! PN 0.79 0.023 34.45 0.744 0.831 Supported 0.623 0.655 0.439
relationships) H4 PN ! GPB 0.53 0.047 11.24 0.43 0.613 Supported 0.281 0.391 0.158
Standard Standard
Hypotheses Relationship beta error t-value LL UP Decision
5
4.5
4
Dependent variable
3.5
Low WOM
3
High WOM
2.5
2
Figure 2.
1.5 Interaction effect of
1 eWOM and PN
Low PN High PN
IJPHM exert high altruistic value and hedonic value develop positive beliefs and display high
obligation to act environmentally. Furthermore, the findings of this study also support the
mediating effect of personal norms in the relationship between pro-environmental beliefs
and GPB. This is consistent with past studies indicating that environmental self-identity has
significant influence on personal norms, thus exerts positive response on participation of
smart energy system (Werff and Steg, 2016).
Furthermore, the findings also support the moderating role of eWOM on the relationship
between personal norm and GPB. A possible explanation of this result is because of the fact
that individuals who has strong obligation on environmental issues are likely to purchase
green cosmetics by being influenced by the positive information they receive through
eWOM communication. This finding is in line past study that found that eWOM
communication leads to consumers’ purchase intention (Kuo et al., 2013).
In a nutshell, this study sheds some light on GPB in the Malaysian cosmetic industry.
The conceptual framework is developed based on VBN theory and ELM as a theoretical
basis. By using PLS-SEM software (SmartPLS version 3.7), the findings of the study provide
support for all direct relationships between value orientation (altruistic value and hedonic
value), pro-environmental belief, personal norm and GPB. Additionally, this study found
support for mediating effect of pro-environmental belief and personal norm toward GPB.
Also, eWOM moderates the relationship between personal norm and GPB. Overall, the
findings indicate the applicability of VBN theory and ELM in explaining the research
hypotheses highlighted in the present study.
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IJPHM About the authors
Azila Jaini is a PhD candidate at International Business School, UTM. She serves as a lecturer at
Universiti Malaysia Kelantan. Her research focus is pertaining to consumer behavior and green
marketing. Azila Jaini is the corresponding author and can be contacted at: azila.j@umk.edu.my
Dr Farzana Quoquab is an Associate Professor at Azman Hashim International Business School,
UTM. She is an active researcher and managed to secure several research grants since 2014 such as
FRGS, GUP-1, GUP-2 and CWGS. She is the recipient of several awards such as the “Excellent
Service Awards,” “Faculty Award for Research,” “Highly Commended Award” and so on. Till to date,
she has graduated 6 PhD students and currently, she is supervising 10 Doctoral students as the main
supervisor. She has published articles in peer-reviewed international journals. She is one of the
editorial board members of “Emerald Emerging Market Case Studies,” “Case Studies in Business and
Management” and “Journal of Management, Economics and Industrial Organization.” She is also a
member of several national and international professional bodies.
Dr Jihad Mohammad is a senior lecturer at the Azman Hashim International Business School,
UTM, Malaysia. He has received his DBA degree from Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia. He has
published articles in peer-reviewed international journals such as Cross-Cultural and Strategic
Management, Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics, International Journal of Business
Governance and Ethics, Asian Academy of Management Journal, Gadjah Mada International Journal
of Business, International Journal of Innovation and Learning and Journal of Islamic Marketing. He
has versatile career exposure. He has conducted several workshops for postgraduate students
regarding research methodology and PLS-SEM.
Dr Nazimah Hussin is a Senior Lecturer at Azman Hashim International Business School UTM.
She has PhD from Durham University, MSc from Loughborough University and BSc from Arizona
State University. She has more than 17 years of teaching experience and has been awarded the
fellowship status from the Higher Education Academy. She supervises Master and PhD students and
has graduated some of them. She has also completed several research grants. She has also been
appointed as the examiner, panelist, chairperson and reviewer relating to the academic activities
especially involving postgraduate students. She writes articles related to Islamic finance and services
marketing and has published more than 30 articles in refereed indexed journals.
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