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Step 4: Behold! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Step 5: Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Intro: Using AC with LEDs (Part 3) - The BIG light
In Using AC with LEDs, part 1 and part 2 , we looked at ways to adapt AC power to LEDs without the usual conversion to pure DC first.
Here, in part 3, we combine what we learned before to design a LED light that operated directly off AC mains.
Warning: AC mains is hundreds of volts, and is potentially lethal. Please take all necessary precautions before you start working with it!
Image Notes
1. 3-watts is all this LED light uses - and it is easily 10-times brighter than a 3-watt
night light.
Vac / 3.3
to give us the number of LEDs we need to be able to properly handle the power without additional resistors and other parts.
What if we bypass the transformer completely and consider AC mains? In some ways it is simpler - the voltage from transformers could vary greatly with the load we put
on it, whereas AC mains are much more stable.
If we use the 110v standard of the US, we first calculate the peak voltage, 1.4 * 110 = 156 and we can find the number of LEDs it can support:
So, does that mean that if we put 47 LEDs in series, we can run the whole string directly off a 110v AC socket?
The answer is Yes! As long as we maintain the voltage across each LED at 3.5v or less, it will operate within its limits.
But then, let's not forget that for each positive cycle, there is a negative cycle! That means we need a mirror circuit like in (1).
However, if we add a blocking diode like in circuit (2), then we can safely operate our circuit. The 1N4003 is capable of handling 200 volts so is fine for US power.
For EU countries, the magic number is 103 LEDs (double if you want to use both cycles) and the diode for ckt (2) should be a 1N4004 or better.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 2: Pushing the envelope
Remember that, because we're using the diode to block half our cycle, the LEDs in circuit (2) only works 1/2 the time. How can we make them light up for the other half
as well?
With a simple part called a Bridge Rectifier this can happen. This device is actually 4 diodes connected in a criss-cross way to make both cycles go in the same direction.
Electronic fans will know this as part of the 'Full-wave rectification' circuit (as opposed to Half-wave).
With this addition, our LEDs will be turning on twice as often and we WILL get twice as much light from them.
AC line cord
Perfboard
The first picture is what my circuit looks like when finished. Quick eyes will note that there are only 42 LEDs on board. Because of the need to accomodate the bridge on
the board, and because of the relatively stable nature of our mains, we can run our lights a tad over 20mA.
The Bridge has 4 leads: 2 marked (~), a (+) positive and a (-) negative. The (~) ones go to AC Mains.
Start by connecting the Bridge (+) to the longer (+) lead of the first LED, then take the short lead to the long lead of the next LED. Do 1 row, double and triple check
before soldering! Work your way down, ALWAYS connecting shorter to longer.
I have additional pictures below showing the various stages of completion. Print them out to help you do the wiring.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Image Notes
1. Incidentally, the size and tone of the yellow spot inside white LEDs can tell you
a lot about its health and brightness.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 4: Behold!
...
Because of the hazardous nature of the components when plugged in, I covered the circuit board with a triple layer of parchment paper, which has a good dielectric
value, and can withstand over 400F of heat.
Then I mounted the board on the lid of a take out container, using a foam spacer from a DVD spindle, with a cutout for the power cord.
The light output is equivalent to a 40-watt frosted bulb, but the container is barely warm.
Remember: Always unplug the circuit before you touch any exposed parts.
Also, the LEDs will be running close to their rated current, which could mean temperatures as high as 85C on their surfaces.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 5: Variations
Too bright?
You can combine circuits (2) and (3) to give our light a Hi/Lo switch. In Hi, the switch shorts the diode so that it operates in Full-wave mode as in (3). Opening the switch
only allows current to flow half the time, just like (2).
Ozzies and Brits: You too can use the 42/47 LED circuits - just combine the US version (.4uF and 1K-ohm) circuit presented in part 2 and you too can make a AC-mains
light with just 42 LEDs! Or check out the calculations in the following step.
Oh yeah, our 'big' light is super thrifty - running off 110-volt mains, it barely consumes 3-watts.
Find out about more ways to light your house with LEDs off A/C mains here!
Image Notes
1. I call this "Still Life with LEDs"
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Step 6: Crunching Numbers
Here is a recap of the calculations used for this project:
To operate white LEDs (nominal voltage 3.3v) safely off AC Mains without using any regulation (other than the diode bridge), the magic number is: Vac * 1.4 / 3.3. Which
is the minimum number of LEDs in series that will run off AC without exceeding its 'comfortable' operating range. The choice of LEDs can be 20mA or higher - AS LONG
AS they are all the same type and attached in series.
If you are using the full number of LEDs calculated above, that is all you need, but for arrangements using fewer LEDs (but no fewer than 30), we need to add the voltage
dropping RC combination. R is always a 1K, 1Watt resistor, while the value of C is calculate as:
IMPORTANT: Parts must be rated for at least Vpk, and enough current to handle Iled.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 83 comments
Here, if you are using 117v, then the 50 or so LEDs will dissipate about 4-watts, making them equivalent to a 20W tube; or a 40W one if aimed down
from the ceiling. Running 240v in other countries will see about 10watts.
Coincidentally, Phillips has announce THEIR version of this 'big' light for 230v where they place 96 SMT (Surface mount) LEDs in series with a bridge
rectifier. This allows the LEDs to run cooler and perhaps extend their life.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
Dipankar says: Dec 10, 2010. 2:57 PM REPLY
I think the Phillips SMT (Surface mount) LEDs will be costing hell of a lot of money?
Here's what I measured: V AC is about 540V and the current is about 2.5 A.
I wasn't able to measure the frequency, but looked of the values of other DC-AD inverters and they ranged between 30 to 50 kHz.
Running through the calculations, I get X=38184 ohms and C=1.4E-10 F when using the 30 kHz frequency.
If you MUST use that control board, I'd suggest tapping into the circuit somewhere safe, and before the inverter.
To retain the most factory like operation, I'd personally remove the inverter, anbd tap into the former input locations to power my led circuit. but that's just
me.
C = 1/(2*PI*30000*27000) = 1.96E-10
Those are most likely the values I need to use if this is something that might work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
qs says: Aug 27, 2009. 8:39 PM REPLY
Are you saying that by adding a 100uF capacitor the measured voltage goes up? That is probably because you are using a DC voltmeter to measure the
rectified AC. Rectified AC is still sine-wave, so a DC voltmeter will not give you an accurate reading.
The addition of the capacitor forces the LEDs to work continuously and, in circuits involving large number of LEDs, heat becomes a problem. In cases
where the LEDs are of good quality and operated within the rated current, the biggest factor affecting the life of the LED is heat. Ideally, they should
never run over 80oC, but it they are placed close together without ventilation, they could reach over 100oC.
For spotlight use, you may find the 25mA 10mm LEDs, with its tight +/- 6-degree beam-spread more usable.
I have arranged a bridge rectifier consists of four 1n4003, I measured its output voltage and the meter reads 105Vdc with measured input of 115Vac. Why is
it the output is not 115*√2= 163V ?
The real waveform from your bridge, as this image Wikipedia shows is still very much recognisably "AC", except all the sine-waves appear in the same
direction (polarity).
That is why you must add a capacitor to + and - to smooth out the "ripples" before your multimeter can recognize it as true "DC".
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
opliko says: May 14, 2009. 10:24 AM REPLY
Thank You, you have been very helpful with lots of insight into AC led applications. So let me digest this really quick and spew out a circuit
and figures to see if I am correct. If I used the bridge and the switch as in step 5, with 20 leds using 3.3V and 25ma each, would draw 500mA
and 66V. Now with the switch only allowing one side of the AC current through, Would that stress the bridge as much as having the switch in
the on position with both cycles going through? Kind of a stupid question but I like to be clear about things when working with AC especially
high levels of voltage and current.
As for the high powered leds, say you have 4 that draw 350mA, that uses 1400mA total, with only 3.6V x 4 = 14.4V. Leaving 142V x 100ma =
14.2V wasted or dissipated as heat in the rectifier? Thank you again for all your patience.
Voltage is the pressure of the water, while the Amperage is the amount of water going through the pipe. The two are not interchangeable.
The current throughout the pipe (and circuit) STAYS THE SAME, whether it's gals/minute or electrons, this analogy holds. Meaning the
current flowing through the first LED is identical to the current through the last LED.
What we are doing is reducing the voltage (pressure) by putting LEDs in between. If we know that the LEDs can 'use up' 3.3-volts each,
then we need 154 / 3.3 = 47 of them to make the circuit work. Regardless of whether they are 25mA or 350mA ones, the magic number of
LEDs for this circuit, is 47.
And, because everything is in series (one after another), the 'total' current through them stays at 25mA or 350mA - this is not added.
So, unless there are other 'restricting' elements in the circuit, putting fewer than 47 LEDs will force each LED to work beyond what they
are designed to do. And this will likely burn them up, maybe even literally.
This is the number of white LEDs (the same type) that you can connect together in series and operate on 230V-AC without needing resistors or
transformers. Just add a suitable bridge rectifier in front.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/
wkumtrider says: Jun 1, 2009. 8:43 AM REPLY
If I want to run 6 leds off AC, I would need a capacitor to reduce the voltage, correct? What is the best way to calculate the correct type of capacitor? Thanks
for your help.
If we know we need a resistance of 7500-ohms at 50Hz, then the correct capacitor value is:
C= 1/(2 x pi x F x X) = 1 / (2 x 3.1415... x 50 x 7500) = 0.424 uF, with 0.47uF as the nearest standard value.
Good catch...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-AC-with-LEDs-Part-3-The-BIG-light/