Service Manual: Hampton Roads Transit

Customer Name
Service Manual
Hampton Roads Transit

Chassis Numbers: 78514–78542
Coach Numbers: 3000–3028
Click here to go to the Table of Contents
Click here to go to the Index
Click here to go to the Maintenance Schedule
1
Foreword
This manual has been prepared to provide the transit operator with maintenance information for the Gil-
lig Low Floor coach. Information has been provided in an easy-to-read format featuring system descrip-
tions and specific procedures for performing the required maintenance.
Four Gillig manuals are supplied for the Low Floor coach: the Driver’s Handbook, Service Manual,
Parts Manual, and the Electrical Schematics Manual. The manuals package also includes vendor-sup-
plied manuals for the engine, transmission, axles, wheels, air conditioning, and other specialized or
customer-ordered equipment and options. The Gillig manuals interface with, and sometimes overlap, the
information in the vendor manuals.
This Service Manual is produced specifically for the coaches whose serial numbers are designated on the
cover of the manual. The customized services outlined may not be appropriate for other Gillig coaches,
which are not included in the listing for this manual. Please do not use this manual as a basis for servic-
ing other Gillig coaches in your fleet.
We have made every effort to provide accurate, complete, and useful publications for our customers. We
welcome comments and suggestions for improvements to these publications. If you have a suggestion,
please include it, along with the specific page reference, in a letter or telephone call to the Publications
Department at Gillig.
Additional copies of this or any other Gillig publication may be purchased by contacting the Gillig Parts
Department at (800) 735-1500.
© 2007 Gillig Corporation

All rights reserved. No part of this manual
may be reproduced in any form or by any
means without the prior written permission
of Gillig Corporation.
2
Foreword
Table of Contents
Specifications.......................................................... 11
Weights and Measurements................................................................................... 11
Torque Information.................................................................................................. 12
Torque Values—Bolts and Nuts............................................................................ 12
Axle & Suspension Torque Values........................................................................ 14
Wheel Nut Torque Values..................................................................................... 15
Fluid Specifications................................................................................................. 16
Chapter 1– General Information............................. 19

Introduction.............................................................................................................. 19
Important Safety Information................................................................................. 19
Bus Operation.......................................................................................................... 22
Jacking and Towing................................................................................................ 29
Supporting the Coach on Jack Stands................................................................. 30
Towing Instructions............................................................................................... 31
Driveshaft Removal.............................................................................................. 34
Axle Shaft Removal.............................................................................................. 35
Welding Precautions............................................................................................... 36
Warranty Information.............................................................................................. 37
Chapter 2– Preventive Maintenance...................... 41

Adjusting Maintenance Intervals........................................................................... 41
Daily Maintenance................................................................................................... 42
Lubrication Points................................................................................................... 43
Maintenance Schedule............................................................................................ 45
3
Table of Contents
Chapter 3– Engine................................................... 59
Engine Oil................................................................................................................. 60
Checking the Oil Level.......................................................................................... 61
Probalyzer Sampling System............................................................................... 61
Changing the Oil................................................................................................... 62
Engine Oil Filter....................................................................................................... 63
Oil Pressure Gauges and Senders......................................................................... 65
Throttle..................................................................................................................... 65
Spinner II Oil Filter ................................................................................................. 66
Fuel System............................................................................................................. 71
Fuel Filters............................................................................................................ 72
Servicing Fuel Lines and Fuel System Components............................................ 75
Fuel Specifications.................................................................................................. 76
Fuel Tank.................................................................................................................. 77
Engine Cooling........................................................................................................ 80
Radiator.................................................................................................................... 87
Surge Tank............................................................................................................... 92
Air Intake System.................................................................................................... 93
Exhaust System....................................................................................................... 96
Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).............................................................................. 96
Exhaust System Maintenance and Cleaning........................................................ 98
Particulate Filter Removal.................................................................................. 103
Engine Removal & Installation............................................................................. 107
Drive Belts.............................................................................................................. 113
Engine Diagnostics............................................................................................... 118
Chapter 4– Transmission/Driveline/Rear Axle.... 119

Transmission......................................................................................................... 119
Operation................................................................................................................ 120
Transmission Fluid................................................................................................ 122
Checking Transmission Fluid Level.................................................................... 124
Fluid and Filter Change...................................................................................... 127
Exterior Inspection and Cleaning........................................................................ 128
4
Table of Contents
Transmission Fluid Cooler................................................................................... 128
Transmission Replacement.................................................................................. 129
Driveline................................................................................................................. 133
Drive Axle............................................................................................................... 137
Chapter 5– Suspension........................................141
General Information.............................................................................................. 141
Air Springs............................................................................................................. 142
Shock Absorbers................................................................................................... 145
Ride Height Adjustment........................................................................................ 148
Front Suspension.................................................................................................. 151
Rear Suspension................................................................................................... 153
Rear Axle Alignment........................................................................................... 158
Suspension Troubleshooting............................................................................... 159
Front Axle............................................................................................................... 161
Axle Overhaul........................................................................................................ 164
Steering Linkage.................................................................................................... 165
Front End Alignment............................................................................................. 170
Front Axle Troubleshooting................................................................................. 174
Steering Column.................................................................................................... 176
Chapter 6– Air System..........................................185

Air System Operation............................................................................................ 185
Suspension Air System Operation...................................................................... 188
Kneeling System Operation.................................................................................. 190
Door Control Operation ....................................................................................... 192
Air Compressor..................................................................................................... 195
Maintenance....................................................................................................... 197
Compressor Removal and Installation................................................................ 199
Performance Testing ......................................................................................... 201
Troubleshooting.................................................................................................. 202
Air Governor (Bendix D-2).................................................................................... 205
Preventive Maintenance..................................................................................... 205
5
Table of Contents
Air Reservoirs........................................................................................................ 210
Valves and Pressure Switches............................................................................. 211
Safety Valve........................................................................................................ 211
Check Valves...................................................................................................... 213
Air Lines.............................................................................................................. 215
Brake System Operation....................................................................................... 217
Brake Valves.......................................................................................................... 217
Brake Valve (Bendix E-10)................................................................................. 217
Relay Valve (Bendix R-12DC)............................................................................ 223
Brake Relay Valve (Bendix R-14)....................................................................... 230
Quick Release Valve (Bendix QR-1).................................................................. 235
Spring Brake Valve (Bendix SR-1)..................................................................... 237
Parking Brake Control Valve (Bendix PP-1)....................................................... 242
Brake Interlock Solenoid Valve........................................................................... 243
Air Dryer (Bendix AD-9)........................................................................................ 244
Regular Scheduled Maintenance....................................................................... 244
Rebuilding the Air Dryer...................................................................................... 246
Air Dryer Troubleshooting................................................................................... 250
Air System Condenser/Separator........................................................................ 252
Chapter 7– Brakes & Wheels................................255

Hazardous Material Warning................................................................................ 255
Brake System......................................................................................................... 257
Maintenance........................................................................................................... 258
System Tests.......................................................................................................... 260
Parking Brake........................................................................................................ 261
Brake Chambers.................................................................................................... 261
Rear Brake Chamber Maintenance.................................................................... 262
Spring Brake Manual Release............................................................................ 263
Removal and Installation of Rear Brake Chambers........................................... 264
Verifying Brake Adjustment.................................................................................. 266
Automatic Slack Adjusters.................................................................................. 266
Automatic Brake Adjuster Checking Procedures................................................ 271
Troubleshooting Brakes....................................................................................... 273
6
Table of Contents
Anti-Lock Braking System Operation.................................................................. 275
Front and Rear Wheel Hub Assemblies.............................................................. 277
Wheels and Tires................................................................................................... 282
Mounting and Demounting Safety Precautions.................................................. 282
Vehicle Operation Safety Precautions................................................................ 283
Wheel Maintenance............................................................................................ 283
Wheel Nut Torque............................................................................................... 286
Wheel Installation.................................................................................................. 287
Tire Maintenance................................................................................................... 289
Wheel and Tire Balancing................................................................................... 294
Chapter 8– Hydraulic System...............................297

System Operation.................................................................................................. 298
Fan Motor Circuit Valves....................................................................................... 300
Spool Valve ....................................................................................................... 300
PWM Fan Control System ................................................................................. 302
Hydraulic Fan Motor.............................................................................................. 303
Troubleshooting the Fan Motor Circuit............................................................... 304
Fan Motor Removal............................................................................................ 306
Fan Motor Inspection and Repair....................................................................... 307
Hydraulic Pump..................................................................................................... 309
Hydraulic Fluid.................................................................................................... 309
Hydraulic Pump Removal .................................................................................. 310
Hydraulic Pump Overhaul................................................................................... 311
Hydraulic System Reservoir................................................................................. 312
Hydraulic System Cooler...................................................................................... 314
Power Steering Hydraulic System Diagnosis..................................................... 314
Pressure Gauges and Testing.............................................................................. 314
Bleeding/Filling Power Steering Hydraulic System........................................... 318
Steering System.................................................................................................... 320
Diagnosis of Problems........................................................................................ 325
Hydraulic / Steering System Troubleshooting.................................................... 326
7
Table of Contents
Chapter 9– Electrical System...............................331
Battery.................................................................................................................... 331
Battery Maintenance........................................................................................... 331
Battery Disconnect Switch.................................................................................. 333
Disconnecting/Removing the Batteries............................................................... 334
Replacing Batteries............................................................................................ 335
Battery Inspection............................................................................................... 336
Electrolyte Maintenance..................................................................................... 338
Battery Testing.................................................................................................... 339
Charging the Battery........................................................................................... 342
Battery Capacity Ratings.................................................................................... 344
Common Causes of Battery Failure................................................................... 344
Jump Starting with a Booster Battery................................................................. 345
Battery Equalizer................................................................................................... 348
Equalizer Troubleshooting.................................................................................. 350
Equalizer Replacement...................................................................................... 351
EM70D Electrical System Monitor...................................................................... 353
Charging System................................................................................................... 355
Alternator............................................................................................................ 355
On-Vehicle Charging System Checks................................................................ 358
Alternator Repair................................................................................................ 361
Alternator Cable/Fuse Installation Procedure..................................................... 363
Starting System..................................................................................................... 365
Multiplexing System.............................................................................................. 374
Multiplex System Connections........................................................................... 380
Troubleshooting.................................................................................................. 381
Module LED’s..................................................................................................... 383
Diagnosis............................................................................................................ 384
Welding Precautions........................................................................................... 386
Electrical Panels.................................................................................................... 387
SAE J1939 Interface.............................................................................................. 390
Rear Run Box......................................................................................................... 392
8
Table of Contents
Electric Horns........................................................................................................ 393
Fire Detection System........................................................................................... 395
Fire Suppression System..................................................................................... 397
Interior Lighting..................................................................................................... 398
Exterior Lighting Equipment................................................................................ 403
Marker, Clearance, and Identification Lights...................................................... 407
Speedometer.......................................................................................................... 408
Wheelchair Ramp.................................................................................................. 410
Electrical Connectors............................................................................................ 413
Wiring Harnesses, Junctions, and Connectors.................................................. 420
Chapter 10– Heating / Air Conditioning.............. 423

Passenger Heating and Air Conditioning............................................................ 423
System Control...................................................................................................... 426
Driver’s Heater and Defroster System................................................................. 427
Booster Pump........................................................................................................ 427
Auxiliary Coolant Heater (Optional)..................................................................... 435
Chapter 11– Body and Interior.............................437

Underbody.............................................................................................................. 437
Corrosion Protection........................................................................................... 437
Exterior................................................................................................................... 439
Side Framing and Skins..................................................................................... 439
Cobolt/Gusset Connections........................................................................... 439
Cobolt/Gusset Repair.................................................................................... 441
Windshield Wipers................................................................................................ 449
Access Doors......................................................................................................... 451
Body Repair and Painting..................................................................................... 452
Interior.................................................................................................................... 456
Passenger Doors................................................................................................... 458
Front Doors............................................................................................................ 461
Rear doors.............................................................................................................. 465
Door Repair............................................................................................................ 471
9
Table of Contents
Windows................................................................................................................. 472
Windshield.......................................................................................................... 472
Driver’s Side Window......................................................................................... 474
Window Removal................................................................................................ 475
Emergency Egress Windows.............................................................................. 476
Driver’s Seat........................................................................................................... 478
Passenger Seating................................................................................................ 479
Index.......................................................................483
10
Table of Contents
Specifications
The specifications provided in this publication are based on information available at the time it was
written and are subject to change at any time due to manufacturer revisions. These specifications are
intended as general guidelines for servicing components on the vehicle. In all cases where services are
performed, it is the responsibility of the service personnel to be sure that they have the most current in-
formation available before performing the job. If there are any questions regarding the values supplied in
this specifications listing, contact the Gillig Service Department before performing intended service.
Weights and Measurements
Weight
Vehicle Weight: 25,000 lbs (varies depending on installed components)
Gross Maximum Vehicle Weight: 39,600 lbs
Heights
Height* with standard tires: 122.11" (including exhaust diffuser)
Aisle height* at front door: 16"
Headroom (minimum): 76.5"
Wheelbase 35' bus 230"

40' bus 279"
Internal Noise Level

Normal Operating Conditions: 80 dBA (max.)
*Measurements given are for buses with standard 305/85R22.5 tires and a 20.1" SLR (Static Loaded
Radius). SLR is the measurement of the distance from the center point of the axle to the ground. You may
contact your Gillig Service representative for more a more extensive list of measurements.
11
Specifications
Torque Information
Torque Values—Bolts and Nuts

Whenever possible, torque at the nut. Unless otherwise noted in the specific application on which
you are working, standard S.A.E. torque values are to be applied when servicing the coach. Check how
many threads per inch the capscrew contains and determine if the capscrew has an S.A.E. grading of 5
or 8 (see Figure S-1). A grade 5 capscrew is often distinguished by
three radial lines on its head, while a grade 8 capscrew may have
six radial lines on its head. Grade 8 capscrews are made stronger
and are able to handle more torque. Different manufacturers use
different markings to designate the grade of nuts and bolts. Make
sure replacement nuts and bolts are the correct grade by contacting
your Gillig Parts representative or the maker of the component that 5 8
you’re servicing.
Figure S-1, Capscrew Grading
Always use specific torque values for the component being serviced,
if such are stated in up-to-date text or illustrations regarding that
component. For example, when servicing the engine, refer to the engine
manufacturer’s manual, which accompanies this manual. If specific
torque values are not given in this manual or in accompanying OEM
manuals, use the most up-to-date standard S.A.E. torque values.
Always use bolts and nuts with the same torque values and strength,
made of the same material, and treated/plated with the same material
as those being replaced. Damage to parts and systems can be caused
by using bolts and nuts with the wrong specifications. Always obtain
replacement bolts and nuts through your Gillig Parts representative!
Coated/Plated Hardware
Determining the correct torque value for nuts and bolts on your bus is imperative for passenger safety
and long equipment life. All bolts coated/plated with cadmium, zinc, yellow zinc dichromate, etc.
are considered lubricated. Specially coated/plated nuts and bolts require considerable adjustment in
torque application. Some nuts and bolts on your bus are coated/plated, and some may in addition be
lubricated with Never-Seez®, an anti-seizing product. When using an anti-seizing product, the torque
applied to a nut or bolt will need to be significantly decreased to avoid damaging parts due to overtight-
ening. Contact your Gillig Service representative before using any anti-seize product. Because there
can be so many torque value variables, it is extremely important that you adhere to torque values given
in OEM documentation and provided in this manual, and heed the Notice and Caution above.
12
Specifications
Torque with Crowfoot Wrench
If a nut is situated so that it’s difficult to get a torque wrench and socket on it, a crowfoot wrench can be
used. The following calculation can be used for any torque and for any fastener.
When using a crowfoot wrench, you must adjust the torque setting on
your torque wrench following the formula below. Otherwise you will
over-torque and possibly break fasteners.
Refer to Figure S-2 below. Add Distance A (the distance from the center of the torque wrench grip to the
center of the torque wrench drive) to Distance B (the distance of the center of the torque wrench drive to
the center of the crows foot socket). Divide the Gillig-specified torque value by this sum. Now multiply
the result by Distance A. The new torque, which you will set on your torque wrench, should be less
than the Gillig-specified torque.
For example, if the wrench is 10" long, the crows foot is 2" long, and you want 120 ft-lb of torque, you
would set the wrench for 100 ft-lb.
To utilize the formula shown in Figure S-2 below, note the following:
Fastener Torque = the torque specified in the Gillig Service Manual for the fastener. In our example,
the torque value is 120 ft-lb.
Set Torque = the torque you set on your torque wrench when using the crowfoot. In our example, this
comes out to 100 ft-lb.
Distance A (in our example) = 10"
Distance B (in our example) = 2"
120 divided by 12 = 10
10 x 10 = 100 (ft-lb)
Fastener Torque
Set Torque = A+B xA
Fastener Torque Wrench Distance = A

Distance = B
Figure S-2, Crowfoot Wrench Torque Formula
13
Specifications
Axle & Suspension Torque Values
Refer to the Meritor Maintenance Manual 2 included with your bus for
front axle torque values.
Steering Linkage (Without Anti-Seize)

Description Size Torque Range
ft-lb N-m
Pitman Arm Bolt 3/4" - 16 230–290 312–393
Drag Link to Pitman Arm Nut 200–250* 271–339*
Drag Link to Steering Arm Nut 200–250* 271–339*
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts 7/8" - 14 490–510 665–692
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts 3/4" - 16 290–310 393–420
*Tighten nut to given specification, then continue to tighten until

slot in nut lines up with hole.
Front Suspension (Without Anti-Seize)

Description Size Torque Range
ft-lb N-m
Torque Rod Bolts 5/8" - 18 170–190 231–258
Torque Rod Clamp Nuts 5/8" - 18 135–165 183–224
Shock Mounting Nuts (Upper) 3/4" - 10 180 244
Shock Mounting Nuts (Lower) M16 x 1.5 74 100
14
Specifications
Axle & Suspension Torque Values (Continued)
Rear Axle
Description Size Minimum Torque
ft-lb N-m
Breather Vent 3/8" - 18 20 minimum 27 minimum
Drain Plug 3/4" - 14 35 minimum 47 minimum
Rear Suspension
Torque Range Torque Range
Bolt / Stud Nut
Description Size Grade Grade (ft-lbs) with (ft-lbs) w/o
Coating Coating Anti-Seize Anti-Seize
Upper and Lower Cadmium

5/8-18 Phos & Oil 8 C 115 ± 5 145 ± 5
Torque Rods to Chassis TS w/ Wax
Upper Torque Rods to

5/8-18 Phos & Oil 8 N/A N/A 200 ± 5 265 ± 5
Axle Bracket
Lower Torque Rods to Cadmium
1-14 Phos & Oil N/A C 400 ± 5 475 ± 5
H Frame TS w/ Wax
Upper Torque Rod Nylock-
5/8-18 Zinc 8 8 150 ± 15 115 ± 5
Clamp Bolt Zinc
Axle to H Frame Cadmium
7/8-14 Phos & Oil 8 C 310 ± 5 400 ± 5
Connection TS w/ Wax
Nylock-
Shock Absorber Bolt 3/4-16 Zinc 8 8 120 120
Zinc
Cadmium
1/2-13 Zinc N/A B 35 ± 5 35 ± 5
TS w/ Wax
Air Bag Mounting Nut
Cadmium
3/4-16 Zinc N/A A 35 ± 5 35 ± 5
TS w/ Wax
Wheel Nut Torque Values

See “Wheel Installation” in the Brakes and Wheels chapter of this manual.
15
Specifications
Fluid Specifications
For acceptable substitutions and fluids for unusual operating conditions, consult the appropriate section
of this manual or the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) manuals supplied with the coach.
Fluid capacity values given are accurate within 10% and should be used as a guideline only. When
adding coolant, oil, transmission fluid, and hydraulic fluid, refer to instructions given in this manual and
in manufacturer manuals supplied with the coach. Always use dipsticks, sight glasses, etc. to determine
the correct fluid levels.
Maximum fluid capacities are given for initial fill purposes only. When
doing actual fluid changes, fluid requirements will be less due to fluids
remaining in the system. Use dipsticks, sight glasses, etc. to determine
the correct fluid levels.
Engine Oil 20 qt / 19 L Low to 24 qt / 23 L High

All Seasons, above 14°F: 15W-40, API Category CJ-4/SL
Use Cummins-specified lubricants only. Using non-approved lubricants will void the Cum-
mins warranty. Damage to the engine can result. Oil must meet or exceed CES 20081. Refer
to the label on the oil. Note that not all CJ-4/SL oils meet the CES 20081 standard.
For winter and arctic conditions see “Oil Viscosity” in Chapter 3– Engine.
Engine Coolant 15 gal / 57 L (dry fill, including hoses, heater coils, transmission cooler, etc.)
Ethylene Glycol, 50% concentration
(do not mix types)
Propylene Glycol, 50% concentration
Coolant must meet ASTM 6210 specifications and Cummins 14603 specifications.
Transmission Fluid 26–29 qt / 25–28 L initial dry fill (hoses, transmission cooler, etc.)
22–24 qt / 21–23 L refill
Use the correct fluid type! To preclude voiding your warranty by using the wrong type of
transmission fluid, please refer to “Transmission Fluid” in the Transmission chapter!
Differential / Rear Axle Oil 22 qt / 20.8 L

Fill Meritor axles with Meritor-specified lubricants only. Using non-approved lubricants will
void Meritor’s warranty. Damage to axle components also can result. Refer to “Approved
Rear Drive Axle Lubricants” on the Meritor Web site: www.arvinmeritor.com.
See specifications table on the following page.
16
Specifications
Differential / Rear Axle Oil (Continued)
Gear Oil Type API Spec. SAE Viscosity Meritor Spec. SAE Spec. Outside Temperature
Petroleum with EP 85W/140 O76-A Above +10°F (–12°C)
Standard-Drain
additives
80W/140 O76-B Above –15°F (–26°C)
Lubricants
80W/90 O76-D SAE J2360 Above –15°F (–26°C)

GL-5 Tested and
75W/90 O76-E Approved Above –40°F (–40°C)
75W O76-J From –40°F (–40°C) to +35°F (+2°C)
75W/140 O76-L Above –40°F (–40°C)
Petroleum with 75W/90, 80W/90, O76-Q, O76-R Depends on viscosity. Refer to the
Extended-Drain Base 80W/140 or viscosity grades listed above.
Oils and EP additives 75W/140
Extended-Drain
Petroleum with Semi- 80W/90 O76-P Above –15°F (–26°C)

Lubricants
Synthetic Base Oils SAE J2360

and EP additives GL-5 Tested and
Approved
Fully Synthetic Base 75W/140 O76-M Above –40°F (–40°C)
Oil and EP additives
Fully Synthetic Base 75W/90 O76-N Above –40°F (–40°C)
Oil and EP additives
Hydraulic Fluid 14.4 qt / 13.6 L (including reservoir, hydraulic lines, and

hydraulic system components)
15W-40, API Category CI-4 Engine Oil
A/C Compressor Oil See compressor manufacturer’s recommendations.
Front Wheel Bearing Grease Lithium 12-Hydroxy Stearate, NLGI Grade 1 or 2
Steering & Brake Component Grease 6% Lithium 12-Hydroxy Stearate, NLGI Grade 1
8% Lithium 12-Hydroxy Stearate, NLGI Grade 2
U-Joint & Driveshaft Slip Spline Grease NLGI E.P. Grade 2 Lubricating Grease
17
Specifications
18
Specifications
Chapter 1– General Information
Introduction
This manual contains operation and maintenance information for the Gillig Low Floor Bus. The
information pertains to standard installed equipment, common optional equipment, and features. All
information and data in this manual are based on the latest product information available at the time of
publication. The Gillig Corporation reserves the right to make product changes at any time.
Service Bulletins and manual revisions may be published to supplement, supersede, or augment the
information in this manual. The bulletins should be placed in the appropriate places in the manual for
future reference.
Important Safety Information

It is your responsibility to be completely familiar with the WARNINGS, CAUTIONS, and NOTICES
described in this Service Manual. These highlighted messages advise against the use of specific service
methods or procedures which can result in personal injury, damage to the equipment, or unsafe operating
conditions. It is important to understand that these messages do not cover every possible situation. Gillig
Corporation could not possibly know and evaluate every single service method, nor could they advise
the service trade of all possible consequences of each method. Accordingly, anyone who uses a service
procedure or tool which is not recommended by Gillig Corporation does so at his or her own risk!
WARNING, CAUTION, and NOTICE messages appear at appropriate places of the manual in special
print. It is critical to the safety of service personnel and to the safe and proper function of the coach that
these messages are carefully observed, especially while undertaking any of the procedures presented in
this manual. WARNINGS, CAUTIONS, and NOTICES appear as follows:
Appears when an operating or service procedure, if not correctly

followed, could result in personal injury or fatality
Appears when an operating or service procedure, if not strictly observed,

could result in damage to the equipment.
Highlights an operating or service procedure which is essential for

proper operation, maintenance, or repair.
19
General Information
Most accidents involving bus operation and maintenance are caused by failure to observe basic safety
rules or precautions. An accident can often be avoided by recognizing potentially hazardous situations
before the accident occurs.
Improper operation, lubrication, or maintenance of the coach can be dangerous and could result in injury
or death. Do not perform any lubrication or maintenance on the coach until you read and understand the
instructions in this manual or in the manufacturer-prepared operations and maintenance manuals pro-
vided for the engine, transmission, and other subsystems.
• Do not burn discarded Teflon seals; toxic gases are produced.

• Never dry bearings by spinning them with compressed air. Spinning
a bearing without lubrication can damage the bearing or cause it to
disintegrate.
• Attach a “Do Not Operate” tag to the start switches and controls at the
driver’s area and the rear control panel before servicing or repairing
the engine or transmission or attached components.
• Disconnect all batteries before servicing the electrical system.
• Stay clear of all moving parts and do not wear loose clothing or jewelry
while servicing the bus.
• Relieve all pressure in air, hydraulic, oil, fuel, or coolant lines before
any lines, fittings, or related items are disconnected or removed.
• All fuels, most lubricants, and some coolants are flammable and must
be handled with caution.
• Keep all fuels and lubricants in properly marked containers and store
away from all unauthorized persons.
• Store all oily rags or other flammable material in a protective container
and keep the container in a safe place.
• Do not bend or strike high pressure lines. Do not install bent or
damaged lines, tubes, or hoses.
• Disconnect the batteries and I/O system components when arc-welding
anywhere on the coach; this helps to protect sensitive electronics. See
“Welding Precautions” later in this section.
• In some cases, the auxiliary coolant heater (optional) will operate
even with the ignition turned off. This may create a fire or exhaust gas
hazard in an enclosed space. Always make sure the coolant heater has
not been unintentionally left on when you leave the bus.
20
General Information
Use of Non-OEM Parts
Use of non-OEM “will-fit” parts can lead to costly failures! For example,
a low-cost switch could result in a high-cost fire; a low-cost filter could
result in a high-cost transmission rebuild. Please remember that parts
of lesser quality often fail, and can lead to costly problems that could
compromise the safe operation of the coach.
21
General Information
Bus Operation
Entering the Bus

Under normal circumstances, follow these instructions for entering the
DO
bus: OR
AIR
1. Push the middle of the front doors to open them.
2. Push the Door Air dump lever (located to the left of the driver’s NO
RM
seat on the driver’s console, see Figure 1-1) to the “NORMAL” AL
REL
position. EAS
E
In Case of Lockout Figure 1-1, Door Air Lever
Never operate bus controls except when seated in the driver’s seat.
Attempting to operate controls by reaching through the driver’s window
or from the aisle could cause unexpected bus movement, resulting in
serious injury or death!
If you are locked out of the bus, do not open the engine door. Changing
the position of the Ignition Select switch in the rear run box could, in
certain instances, cause the bus to move unexpectedly and could result
in serious injury or death!
If a lockout occurs, contact your supervisor and, when
authorized, follow these steps to reenter the bus:
1. Be sure that the parking brake is applied. If you
can see the black band at the base of the park-
ing brake switch, the parking brake is applied.
See Figure 1-2. If the parking brake is not set or
you are unable to see the parking brake switch
through the windows, the wheels must be se-
curely chocked to prevent the bus from rolling in Black band shows that WARNING! Parking Brake
Parking Brake is applied. is NOT applied!
either direction. If the bus is parked on a grade,
pay extra attention to securing the bus from roll- Figure 1-2, Check Parking Brake
ing downhill.
2. Go around the bus and open the access door under the driver’s window and find the air tank drain
valves, located in the upper right-hand corner of the battery access panel. Refer to the “Air Res-
ervoirs” section in the Air System chapter for further information. Carefully open all four valves.
An audible sound will be heard as the air exhausts from the system.
22
General Information
3. When you no longer hear air escaping from the valves, push on the front doors in the normal
manner to enter the bus.
After purging the air tanks, the doors will be considerably harder to
open than usual.
4. After you have reentered the bus, verify that the parking brake is applied, then check the shifter
buttons and/or shifter display. Make sure the transmission is in Neutral.
5. Move the Door Air dump lever to the “RELEASE” position, exit the bus, and close the four air
tank drain valves.
6. Reenter the bus and set the ignition select switch to the appropriate run position. Press the Engine
Start button.
7. Check the indicator lamp strip to verify that the
“WARNING– INTERLOCK DEACTIVATED” indi-
cator is not illuminated.
Figure 1-3, “Interlock Deactivated”
8. Wait until the low-air-pressure audible alarm stops
Indicator Lamp
and the “LOW AIR (BRAKES)” indicator on the in-
dicator lamp strip turns off before attempting to drive
the bus.
Sufficient air pressure is needed for the brakes to work properly. The
recommended operating pressure range is 110 to 130 psi. Make sure that
both needles on the air pressure gauge are above 110 psi before starting
to drive the bus.
9. Remove the wheel chocks and make sure that there are no obstacles in the way of the bus.
23
General Information
Starting the Engine
Before Starting the Engine
1. Close and lock all exterior access doors, making sure that all personnel remain safely clear of the
bus.
2. Be sure that the parking brake is applied and Neutral is selected on the transmission shifter.
3. Make sure that the Fast Idle switch is in the “OFF” position.
Starting the Engine

1. Set the ignition select switch to “DAY RUN” for daytime operation or (night run) for night-
time operation. Some indicator lamps will light up for a few seconds as the system boots up.
2. Test the indicator lamps using the Lamp Test button on the indicator lamp strip.
3. Observe the “Wait To Start” lamp on the indicator lamp strip. Do not try to start the engine until
this lamp goes out. This should take about 25 seconds.
NEVER use starting fluid of any type on the Cummins ISL engine. This
engine has an intake air heating grid element, which may cause starter
fluid to explode!
4. After the “Wait To Start” lamp goes out, press the starter button until the engine starts. Do not
press the throttle pedal during starting.
The starter can be cranked for no more than 15 seconds at a time. This
programmed 15-second limit is designed to protect the starter from
overheating. There is also a programmed 3-second waiting period
between starting attempts to prevent “bumping” the engine and to allow
the pinion and ring gear to stop, thus preventing damage to the engine
or starter.
The starter must be allowed to cool after extended cranking cycles. Let
the starter cool off for at least 2 minutes after 3 starting attempts.
24
General Information
The starter is equipped with an overcrank protection system. A
temperature sensor in the starter prevents cranking when the starter
overheats. If this occurs, allow the starter to cool.
A runaway starter can overheat and start a fire. Power to the starter
must be shut off using the battery disconnect switch if the “Starter”
indicator lamp stays on after you release the starter button.
5. Check the oil pressure gauge (if equipped) immediately after the engine starts. The gauge should
show oil pressure within 15 seconds of starting. If the oil pressure gauge still reads zero after 15
seconds, shut the engine down immediately and begin troubleshooting.
If the oil pressure gauge reads zero after 15 seconds, or “Check Engine”
and/or “Stop Engine” indicator lamps remain lit after startup, shut the
engine down immediately.
Sufficient air pressure is needed for the brakes to work properly. The
recommended operating pressure range is 110 to 130 psi. Ensure both
needles on the air pressure gauge are above 110 psi before starting to
drive the bus.
6. Run the engine at Fast Idle or part throttle until the air pressure gauge shows at least 110 psi and
the engine coolant temperature gauge indicates a temperature of at least 140° F. It is best to let
the engine idle for 3 to 5 minutes before moving the bus. Do not idle the engine for extended
periods of time (10 minutes or more). If prolonged idling is necessary, use the Fast Idle setting.
25
General Information
Automatic Engine Shutdown
The engine in your Low Floor bus comes equipped with an automatic shutdown system, which protects
the engine from damage. When the engine’s computer detects a very serious problem, such as low oil
pressure or high temperature, it will automatically shut down the engine.
The “Stop Engine” indicator lamp (Figure 1-4), along with an alarm sound, will activate when the auto-
matic shutdown sequence has started. Other lamps, such as “Low Oil (Engine)” or “Low Coolant” may
also come on. When the “Stop Engine” lamp comes on, you have only 30 seconds before the engine
shuts down! This means you must immediately get the bus off the road and safely parked.
STOP
CHECK
ENGINE STOP
ENGINE
WHEEL
ENGINE
CHAIR LIFT
EPM LIFT SAFETY REAR
FAILURE ENGINE DISABLED START
FLUIDS BRAKES RETARDER
LOW OIL LOW RETARDER
(ENGINE) COOLANT DISABLED
WAIT APPLIED SPEED
COOLANT
TEMP TO SWITCH KNEEL
START ANTILOCK TRACTION
CONTROL PARK LOW
BRAKE AIR STOP
TRANS LOW REQUEST AID
(BRAKES)
TEMP FLUID PASSENGE EXIT
(TRANS.) R DOOR DOOR
ALARM FAST
NO CHECK IDLE HEATED
CHARGE 12V SYSTEM HIGH
VOLTAGE LOW MIRROR
WA
24V SYSTEM VOLTAGE LOW
LOW INTERLO RNING -
24V SYSTEM FLUID CK DEAC
(HYD.) AIR STEPWEL
L
TIVATED LAMP
FRT. DOOR HEATER A. C. TEST
STOP LOW DO NOT
FUEL SHIFT
(TRANS)
FIRE
Figure 1-4, “Stop Engine” Indicator Lamp
If you need more than 30 seconds to get the bus to a safe parking place,
you can use the Stop Engine Override switch (see Figure 1-5) to postpone
engine shutdown. To use this control, lift the red safety cover and push the
switch to “STOP ENGINE OVERRIDE.” This will give you anSadditionalTO STO
30 seconds to drive the bus to a safe spot. Pressing the switch again
ERR dur-
OV P EN GI OV P ENG
ERR IN
IDE NE IDE E
ing that 30 second interval will result in an additional 30 second override
delay.
Figure 1-5, Stop Engine
Override Switch
The Stop Engine Override switch should be used only when you need to
get the bus off the road and into a safe parking spot. Using the override
switch to delay engine shutdown could cause damage to the engine or
vehicle.
26
General Information
Shutdown and Parking Procedure
Do not use the interlock system as a parking brake!
The transmission must be in Neutral and the parking brake must be

applied before leaving the driver’s seat!
If parked on a grade, be sure to curb or block the wheels securely, as

directed in your employer’s driver training program.
1. Apply the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission into Neutral.
3. If parked on a grade, be sure you have curbed or blocked the wheels.
Shutting Down the Engine
Allow the engine to idle for at least 3 minutes before shutting it down.
This allows engine parts to cool properly.
The front doors will automatically close when the ignition is turned off
with the Door Air lever in the “NORMAL” position. An alarm will sound
to warn passengers to keep clear of the closing doors.
1. Make sure the parking brake is applied, the transmission is in Neutral, and the bus is properly
parked.
2. Turn off all electrical accessories.
3. Allow the engine to idle for 3 to 5 minutes.
4. Open the front door using the Door Control handle. Move the Door Air control to the “RE-
LEASE” position.
5. Select “OFF” using the ignition select switch. Verify that the engine has turned off.
6. Wait at least 1 minute to allow vehicle computers to complete processing and shut down.
27
General Information
7. Access the external battery disconnect switch. Move the switch to the “OFF” position to shut off
power to the electrical system.
Unless there is an emergency, never turn off the battery disconnect switch
when the engine is running or SEVERE ELECTRICAL DAMAGE CAN
OCCUR! If possible, always turn off the ignition switch first. Wait one
full minute after the engine is turned off before turning off the battery
disconnect switch! The ECM can lose important information if this
practice is not followed.
Leaving the Bus

With the Door Air lever in the “NORMAL” position, the front doors on the Low Floor bus will auto-
matically close and lock when you turn the ignition off, regardless of the position of the Door Control
handle. An alarm will sound and the doors will close gradually, in a series of small steps, when this hap-
pens.
To avoid automatic door closure and its alarm, put the Door Air lever in the “RELEASE” position before
turning off the ignition. This will ensure that the front doors stay open when you turn the ignition off.
In order to be able to get out of the bus (and back in later), you must follow this sequence when leaving
the bus.
To avoid being locked out, always leave the bus with the Door Air control
lever in the “RELEASE” position and the Door Control handle in the
“FRONT” position.
1. Safely park the bus and shut down the engine according to the instructions earlier in this chapter.
Double-check the parking brake knob to be sure you have applied it properly (Figure 1-2).
2. Release the air pressure from the front door motors by moving the lever of the Door Air control
to the “RELEASE” position.
3. Pull the front doors open by hand and exit the bus. After leaving the bus, push the doors closed
by hand.
If you get locked out of the bus, refer to the “In Case of Lockout” section
earlier in this chapter.
28
General Information
Jacking and Towing
Jacking Instructions
• Never get beneath the coach when it is supported only by a jack!

• Do not start or run the engine when the coach is supported by a
jack.
• The floor jack must be have a rated capacity of at least 5 tons.
• Never attempt to move the coach using a floor jack.
• Always block the frame after the coach has been raised.
• Make sure the lifting surface or bowl of the jack is the proper size and
shape to prevent the coach from slipping off the jack.
To jack the coach, follow these instructions:

1. Position the coach on a hard, level, flat surface before jacking.
2. Shift the transmission into Neutral, apply the parking brake, and shut down the engine.
3. The floor jack must be located properly to prevent the possibility of the jack sliding from under
the coach.
4. Block or chock the front and rear of the wheel on the opposite side of the coach being raised to
help prevent the coach from moving.
5. If a flat tire is to be removed, raise the coach so an inflated spare tire will just clear the surface.
Jacking the coach to change a front tire can be done on the front axle beam, and at other frame
locations indicated by the OK symbols in Figure 1-6. Jacking the coach to change a rear tire can
be done on the rear axle and at the locations on the rear suspension H-frame indicated by an OK
symbol. Do not position the jack under the “dropped” frame rails in the center section of
the coach!
OK
OK OK OK OK
OK
OK OK
OK
OK OK OK OK
OK
Figure 1-6, Jacking Locations
29
General Information
Supporting the Coach on Jack Stands
To support the coach on jack stands, refer to the support locations shown in Figure 1-7.
For the front, use:
two stands at points A or
two stands at points B or
two stands at points C .
For the rear, use:

two stands at points D or
two stands at points E or
two stands at points F .
If it is inconvenient to use the rear suspension points on the H-frame, for example, if you’re working on
the rear suspension, use FOUR jack stands, one at each of the following frame points:
two stands at G and two stands at H or
two stands at G and two stands at I .
Take special care to avoid crushing air lines, electrical wiring harnesses, etc.
Supporting the coach on jack stands can be extremely dangerous, and

should only be done by highly experienced personnel.
B
I H F D G A C
E
E
I H F D G A C
B
Figure 1-7, Jack Stand Support Locations
30
General Information
Towing Instructions
Gillig recommends flatbedding a disabled bus. If towing is necessary, flat towing from the front with a
fixed tow bar is recommended. Towing with the front end raised should be a last resort. Gillig does not
recommend towing from the rear. Review the Warnings and Caution below before towing the bus.
• Towing should not be attempted without proper training.

• No towing operation should be attempted which is unsafe in any way
for the towing vehicle, operator, bystanders, or other motorists.
• Vehicle towing must be done in compliance with all state and local
laws. Safety chains must be used in conjunction with the primary
lifting/towing equipment. Secure or remove all loose or protruding
parts of a damaged coach. To avoid possible personal injury, DO NOT
get under a coach that is being lifted by the towing equipment unless
the coach is properly blocked and supported. The Gillig Low Floor
should never be towed more than a few feet without first disconnecting
the driveline.
• An auxiliary air supply of 100 to 120 psi should be provided to the
coach while it is being towed, so that adequate air is available to
operate the brakes. Any time the air pressure falls below 65 psi, the
parking brake engages automatically. The Low Floor bus is fitted with
emergency air fittings at the front and rear behind the bumpers. This
allows operation of the brakes and suspension while the coach is being
towed. The front emergency air fitting has a cap/filter assembly which
must be removed prior to hooking up an external air source. Be sure
to reinstall the cap/filter assembly after towing the coach.
• Never tow a vehicle over 35 miles per hour (55 kilometers per hour).
remove the driveshaft or axle shafts before towing the coach! Towing
with the driveline rotating will damage the transmission. Clean up any
spilled oil.
31
General Information
Flat Towing (All Wheels on the Ground)
A fixed tow bar (Figure 1-8 or Figure 1-9) should be used
only for flat towing the Low Floor. If your coach has the
streamlined (BRT) front structure, you must use the BRT FO
tow bar in order to avoid damaging the front cap lower RW
AR
D
closeout (see Figure 1-10).
Do not use
standard tow
Front Bumper Channel
bar on buses
with BRT front Figure 1-8, Gillig Fixed Tow Bar
cap closeout.
for Standard Low Floorsssss
FO
RW
AR
Figure 1-10, Incorrect Tow Bar on BRT Coach D
See Figure 1-11 for ground clearance and towing

height for BRT tow bars. Front Bumper Channel
Figure 1-9, Gillig Fixed Tow Bar for BRT Buses
Do not try to lift the front wheels with a tow bar. Gillig tow bars are for
flat towing with all four wheels on the ground only. For towing with the
front wheels raised, see important information on the following page.
47.5" max.
32.2"
19.5"
6.9"
3.7"
Figure 1-11, BRT Tow Bar Ground Clearance and Towing Height
32
General Information
Towing with Front Wheels Raised (Hooking)
Do not try to lift the front wheels with a tow bar. Gillig tow bars are for
flat towing with all four wheels on the ground only.
If it is necessary to tow with the front of the coach elevated, the front axle must be securely chained so
that the shock absorbers and air springs are not damaged. Chain the front axle as follows.
1. Support the frame securely with blocks or jack stands.
2. Make sure that wheels are pointing straight ahead.
3. Working from behind the front axle, secure the chains around the tie rod to the structure behind,
as shown in Figure 1-12. Minimum chain size is 3/8".
4. Lift the front of the coach and verify that the chains are supporting the axle.
5. Use towing points A or towing points B as shown in Figure 1-12.
A
A
B
D
AR
Secure Chains Tightly RW
FO
Figure 1-12, Tow Points and Chaining Front Axle
33
General Information
Driveshaft Removal
The driveshaft is very heavy. Be careful when removing it.
1. Remove retaining screws and bearing straps on one U-joint. See Figure 1-13.
2. Slide drive shaft back to allow U-joint to clear yoke, being careful that bearing caps do not fall
off. Secure bearing caps in position.
3. Repeat the process at the other universal joint, then remove the drive shaft.
BEARING CUP
DIFFERENTIAL
SHAFT YOKE YOKE
SLIP TUBE
SHAFT
BEARING STRAP
GREASE PLUG
U-JOINT DUST SEAL

CROSS
SLIP YOKE
TRANSMISSION
YOKE
BEARING CAP
TRUNNION
ON
SI
IS
SM
AN
TR
Figure 1-13, Driveshaft
34
General Information
Axle Shaft Removal
1. Remove the nuts and washers from the hub studs.
2. Strike the center of the flange with a lead hammer to loosen the flange and dowels from the studs
(Figure 1-14). An alternative method is to use a large hammer (5 to 6 pounds) against a 1.5"
brass drift or a 1.5" brass mallet used as a drift.
3. Withdraw the axle shaft from the housing, then remove the gasket from the hub or flange. Three
threaded holes may be provided in the axle shaft flange for use with puller screws if necessary.
STRIKE CENTER
OF AXLE FLANGE
CONE
INSERT
STAR
WASHER
REAR AXLE
SHAFT
NUT
20-100-x138
Figure 1-14, Axle Shaft Removal
35
General Information
Welding Precautions
Prior to performing any welding operation on the coach, sensitive electrical components must be pro-
tected from damage. The sequence below must be followed in the order shown or damage to the volt-
age equalizer, multiplexer, or any of the electronic control units (ECU’s) may result. When the welding
operation is completed, the components must be reconnected in the reverse order of disconnection.
Ensure the following precautions are accomplished prior to welding

anywhere or anything on the coach, as permanent damage to electronic
components may result.
1. Place the main battery cut-off switch into the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the battery ground from the voltage equalizer.
3. Disconnect the battery cables from the batteries.
4. Disconnect the power connectors from the ECU’s and electronic equipment (ABS, engine,
transmission, I/O DINEX multiplexing system, wheelchair ramp, destination sign, communica-
tion equipment, voice annunciation system, communication network (such as SAE J1708, J1939,
etc.), surveillance system, and other electronic devices.
5. Disconnect the main power fuse from the multiplexer circuit (located in the lower driver’s con-
sole).
The welding ground cable should be attached to a chassis member as close to the weld site as possible,
consistent with good welding practices. Do not connect welding cables to, or weld on, control compo-
nents. Protect components from heat, sparks, and spatter, while welding.
When welding is complete, reconnect the components in the reverse order of removal.
36
General Information
Warranty Information
All Gillig buses are warranted against defects in materials and workmanship. Our basic Limited Stan-
dard Coverage Warranty document is shown on the next three pages. The warranty or extended coverage
applicable to the vehicles in this build (refer to the VIN’s shown on the cover page) may be different
(items covered and/or durations). For details of the actual coverage of these buses, please refer to the
original contract documents for this build, or contact the Gillig Field Service Department’s Warranty
Administrator at (510) 785-1500 or (800) 735-1500, and provide the VIN’s for the vehicles in question.
37
General Information
This is a copy of the standard Gillig warranty. Your transit district’s warranty may have different coverage peri-
ods for specific orders. Please check with your administrative officials to determine your actual warranty cover-
age for any specific vehicle. If no special warranty and/or extended coverage agreements exist, then this warranty
applies.
GILLIG CORPORATION
LOW FLOOR TRANSIT COACH

LIMITED STANDARD WARRANTY & EXTENDED COVERAGE
GILLIG Corporation warrants to the original purchaser, that its transit coaches will be FREE
FROM DEFECTS IN MATERIAL AND WORKMANSHIP UNDER NORMAL USE
AND SERVICE, for the distance or time periods specified in the attached, and agrees to
REPAIR or REPLACE the defective parts AT NO COST TO THE PURCHASER. This is
a limited warranty subject to the provisions stated below and with component coverage as
described on the attached.
This warranty DOES NOT COVER malfunction or failure resulting from alteration,
misuse, abuse, accident, neglect or failure to perform normal preventive maintenance
by the user (outlined in GILLIG’s Service Manual), nor does it cover components or
assemblies not originally provided by GILLIG. Further, the warranty DOES NOT
APPLY to normal replacement items such as light bulbs, seals, filters or bushings, nor to
consumable items such as belts, tires, brake linings or drums. Additionally, GILLIG DOES
NOT ASSUME ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR LOSS OF USE OF THE COACH,
OR FOR CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, and the purchaser’s
exclusive remedies under this warranty are expressly provided herein.
GILLIG DOES NOT WARRANT some major component assemblies (such as the engines
or transmissions) which are warranted by their respective manufacturers and identified as
Category 3 items in the attached. GILLIG is obligated under this agreement and as an
agent of those manufacturers, to resolve any disputes and be responsible to ultimately
ensure compliance with the terms stated herein. However, this coverage is as defined in
those manufacturer’s own warranty documents and per their terms and conditions, and
as administered by their own support networks.
GILLIG makes NO OTHER WARRANTIES, except as stated herein, and GILLIG’s
obligation under this warranty is LIMITED AND FULLY DESCRIBED HEREIN.
Determination of warrantable defects is at GILLIG’s (or the OEM’s) discretion and will
require inspection of failed components. Correction or compensation under this warranty
cannot be made unless requested on a GILLIG Warranty Claim Form and in accordance
with the claim procedure provided.
THIS WARRANTY IS EXPRESSLY IN LIEU OF ANY OTHER WARRANTY
EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED (including without limitation, any warranty of merchantability
or fitness for a particular purpose, other than for use as a transit bus), but, if such has legal
status, it CANNOT EXCEED THE DURATIONS STATED HEREIN. This warranty
gives the purchaser specific legal rights and some state statutes may include other rights.
Standard & Extended
Revised: 9/06
Page 1 of 3
GILLIG CORPORATION

This standard warranty covers the following systems, component or assemblies for the period
specified, and includes 100% PARTS AND LABOR to repair or replace the defective components
as decided by GILLIG. See Page 3 - NOTES for explanations.
CATEGORY 1
BASIC WARRANTY COVERAGE ON ALL SYSTEMS & COMPONENTS
Includes GILLIG manufactured or assembled components and systems as well as some purchased
assemblies. Warranty and coverage provided by GILLIG.
Coverage Period (1)
Months Miles
COACH WARRANTY (2) (3) (7) 12 50,000
BODY STRUCTURE WARRANTY (4) 36 150,000
CORROSION & STRUCTURAL

INTEGRITY GUARANTEE (5) 84 350,000
CATEGORY 2
EXTENDED COVERAGE (6) ON THE FOLLOWING SYSTEMS & COMPONENTS
Includes major components purchased and installed by GILLIG. Coverage provided through
GILLIG.
AXLE
Meritor Front Steering 24 100,000
Meritor Rear Driving 24 100,000
BRAKE SYSTEM
(Excludes Friction Material)
Bendix Valves 24 50,000
Meritor Brakes 24 50,000
RADIATOR & CHARGE AIR COOLER

Modine 24 100,000
Standard & Extended

Revised: 9/06
Page 2 of 3
GILLIG CORPORATION

CATEGORY 3
EXTENDED COVERAGE (6)
ON THE FOLLOWING SYSTEMS & COMPONENTS
Includes major components warranted by their respective manufacturer, but overseen by GILLIG
as their agent. Refer to particular OEM documents for details.
Coverage Period (1)
Months Miles
ENGINE (7)
Cummins ISB/C/L 24 Not applicable
Cummins ISM 24 Not applicable
Detroit Diesel Series 50 24 Not applicable
ENGINE ACCESSORIES
(Starter, Alternator, etc.) 24 100,000
TRANSMISSION
Allison 24 100,000
Voith 24 150,000
ZF 24 100,000
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
Thermo King 24 Not applicable
Carrier 24 Not applicable
NOTES
(1) Coverage ceases at the first expiration of the time or distance noted.
(2) Basic coach warranty includes and applies to electrical, doors, seats, flooring, roof hatches, destination signs,
wheelchair ramp, handrails, radio, P.A., etc., but not to IVS systems or special options.
(3) Fleet defect coverage is for a maximum of 12 months or 50,000 miles and includes all components and assem-
blies on the vehicle.
(4) Basic body structure warranty includes and applies to structural members in the body and undercarriage includ-
ing the structural members in the suspensions.
(5) The corrosion and structural integrity guarantee covers against a significant loss of structural integrity of the
assembly or its functional performance, resulting from a pertinent loss of cross-section due to corrosion caused
by normal environmental elements but excludes corrosion caused by aggressive road de-icers such as Magne-
sium Chloride or equivalents, unless Gillig approved preventative measures are taken.
(6) Extended coverage may not duplicate basic warranty coverage.
(7) Use of non-ASTM biodiesel blends from non-BQ9000 suppliers in excess of B5 may void the engine manufac-
turer’s warranty on fuel related components, and such blends of B15 and higher may void warranties of hoses,
seals and fittings in contact with the fuel.
Standard & Extended
Revised: 9/06
Page 3 of 3
Chapter 2– Preventive Maintenance
Regular inspections and maintenance are required to keep the coach running safely and reliably. This
chapter includes the schedules and information needed to prevent costly and dangerous breakdowns. Be
sure to refer to the Specifications chapter of this manual for fluid and lubricant specifications, fastener
torque figures, and other information.
Adjusting Maintenance Intervals

The mileage figures given in the Maintenance Schedule are based on a yearly mileage total of about
48,000 miles under normal driving conditions. You may find it necessary to adjust the schedule for
shorter mileage intervals between maintenance items, or to schedule your maintenance based on total
operating time or calendar periods. Harsh operating conditions, such as extremely hot or cold tempera-
tures, dusty air, rough roads, heavy loads, etc., will require more frequent maintenance. Consult the
guide below for a rough comparison between mileage, engine hours, and calendar periods.
Odometer Reading Hours of Operation Months of Operation

12,000 miles 400 hours 3 months
24,000 miles 800 hours 6 months
36,000 miles 1,200 hours 9 months
41
Preventive Maintenance
Daily Maintenance
Some maintenance items are so important that they must be taken care of every day before the coach
begins operation. The following is a list of the minimum acceptable daily maintenance.
1. Check for fluid leaks. Inspect the area underneath the coach for drips or puddles. Check inside
the engine compartment and around the fuel tank and lines.
2. Check for oil grime buildup in the engine compartment. Buildup of dirt and oil grime on and
around the engine is hazardous and can cause an engine fire. Steam-clean the engine as called for
on the maintenance schedule or whenever the buildup becomes a problem.
3. Inspect the drive belts. Look for cracking, tears, burns, etc. on the alternator and air-condition-
ing belts. Refer to the Engine chapter for complete belt inspection instructions.
4. Inspect the tires. Check air pressure, check for damage, unusual wear, etc.
5. Inspect the wheels. Look for cracks & damage. Refer to the wheel manufacturer’s manual.
6. Check coolant level. Check the sight glass on the surge tank for coolant level.
7. Check engine oil level. Refer to the Engine chapter for instructions.
8. Check transmission fluid level. Refer to the Transmission chapter for instructions.
9. Check hydraulic fluid level/condition. See the Hydraulic System chapter for instructions.
10. Check air intake restriction indicator. Refer to the Engine chapter for instructions.
11. Drain water from air tanks. Refer to the Air System chapter for instructions.
12. Drain water from fuel/water separator fuel filter. Refer to the Engine chapter for instructions.
42
Lubrication Points
Refer to Figure 2-1 and its accompanying table for grease points on your coach. Also refer to Figure 2‑2
for steering system preventive maintenance intervals. Keep in mind that there are many other compo-
nents on the coach which require regular maintenance.
1 2 3 4 2 3 5 6 7
2 3 4 2 3 5 8
Figure 2-1, Lube Points
Interval,
Item Component Note: Lubricant
Miles
1 Driveshaft Three fittings: two U-joints, one slip NLGI #2 8,000
shaft EP Grease
2 Brake Camshaft Bushings Four fittings, one at each wheel end NLGI #1 or #2 50,000
MP Grease
3 Slack Adjusters Four fittings, one at each wheel end NLGI #1 or #2 6,000
MP Grease
4 Tie Rod Ends Two fittings, one at each rod end NLGI #1 or #2 50,000
MP Grease
5 Front Axle King Pins Four fittings, two at each axle end NLGI #1 or #2 50,000
MP Grease
6 Output Shaft Seal One fitting atop steering gear, use 90° NLGI #1 or #2 24,000
grease-gun fitting MP Grease
7 Intermediate Shaft Two fittings, one at each U-joint NLGI #2 24,000
EP Grease
8 Drag Link Two fittings, one at each rod end NLGI #1 or #2 10,000
MP Grease
43
drain reservoir and replace filter.
routinely check oil level. use (1x/year - highway,
only approved hydraulic fluid. 2x/year -severe duty)
tighten hose clamps and

inspect all hydraulic hoses and
connections for leakage. bleed
air from the system, if required.
(2x/year)
tighten tie rod end pinch

clamp bolt to approved torque inspect u-joint and
specification. (4x/year) pinch bolts. torque to
approved specification.
(4x/year)
if equipped with
grease fittings, lube
lubrication guidelines for tie rod intermediate column
and draglink ends. u-joints and slip joint.
• Highway (Every 20,000 miles) (At each lube cycle)
• Pick -up/Delivery (2x/month)
• Heavy Duty (every 500 hours) replenish lube
• Severe Duty (every 250 hours) under dirt and water
seal. (2x/year)
(grease zerk on
housing trunnion—
lubricate at trunnion grease see “steering
fitting with hand operated lubrication” in
gun only. (At each lube cycle) chapter 5.)
tighten pitman arm connection to

approved torque specification.
(4x/year)
check cotter pin at slotted nut on all
tie rod and draglink ends. check nut
torque and replace cotter pin, if
missing. (At each lube cycle)
Figure 2-2, Steering System Preventive Maintenance
44
Maintenance Schedule
Engine (ISL 2007)

Check air intake piping..............................................................Daily
Check cooling fan......................................................................Daily
Check crankcase breather tube...................................................Daily
Check air tanks and reservoirs...................................................Daily
Check coolant level....................................................................Daily
Drain fuel-water separator fuel filter..........................................Daily
Check lubricating oil level.........................................................Daily
Check after-treatment exhaust piping........................................Daily
Change engine oil and filter.......................................................Every 6,000 miles*
Check & clean Spinner II auxiliary oil filter..............................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect radiator for leaks, dirt, debris........................................Every 6,000 miles
Check hoses and hose clamps....................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check surge tank and pressure relief cap...................................Every 6,000 miles
Steam-clean engine compartment..............................................Every 6,000 miles
Check mounting hardware, (injection pump, air comp., etc.)....Every 10,000 miles
Check air cleaner restriction......................................................Every 10,000 miles
Check charge-air piping.............................................................Every 10,000 miles
Clean charge air cooler..............................................................Every 12,000 miles†
Replace standard secondary fuel filter.......................................Every 12,000 miles (every 2nd oil change)
Replace Fleetguard fuel/water separator fuel filter....................Every 15,000 miles
Check coolant SCA concentration level....................................Every 20,000 miles
Replace coolant filter.................................................................Every 20,000 miles
Check charge air cooler for leaks...............................................Every 24,000 miles
Check fan hub............................................................................Every 30,000 miles
Check automatic belt tensioner bearing.....................................Every 40,000 miles
Check drive belts........................................................................Every 40,000 miles
Check engine mounts.................................................................Every 60,000 miles
(Continued on next page)
45
Engine (ISL 2007, Continued)
Change antifreeze and flush cooling system..............................Every 80,000 miles
Inspect vibration damper............................................................Every 80,000 miles
Clean air compressor discharge lines.........................................Every 80,000 miles
Replace crankcase breather element..........................................Every 80,000 miles
Adjust engine brake assembly‡..................................................Every 150,000 miles
Adjust overhead set....................................................................Every 150,000 miles
Clean DPF (diesel particulate filter)..........................................Every 200,000 miles. See
“Exhaust System” in the Engine chapter.
* Interval varies according to operating conditions. Refer to the Cummins ISL Operation and
Maintenance Manual.
† Charge air cooler should be cleaned more often in areas with severe corrosion problems.
‡ Reset valve lash, if needed, to nominal specifications.
Exhaust
Check for exhaust restrictions and leaks....................................Every 12,000 miles
Check for loose exhaust fasteners and straps.............................Every 12,000 miles
Clean DPF (diesel particulate filter)..........................................Every 200,000 miles. See
“Exhaust System” in the Engine chapter.
Hydraulic System
Replace hydraulic fluid filter element........................................Every 6,000 miles
Replace hydraulic fluid..............................................................Every 18,000 miles
Check hydraulic pump mounting bolts......................................Every 24,000 miles
Check cooling fan motor and blades..........................................Every 42,000 miles
46
Driveline
Lubricate U-joints and slip splines............................................Every 8,000 miles
Check driveline fastener torque.................................................Every 24,000 miles
Transmission (Voith)
Mineral-Based Transmission Fluid:
Change transmission fluid and filter....................................First at 2,500 miles*
Second at 11,500 miles*
Then every 36,000 miles*
Synthetic Transmission Fluid:
Change transmission fluid and filter....................................First at 2,500 miles*
Second at 11,500 miles*
Then every 72,000 miles*
Check fluid cooler hoses and piping..........................................Every 6,000 miles.
See “Trans. Fluid Cooler Inspection and
Maintenance” in the Transmission chapter.
Inspect transmission mounts......................................................Every 60,000 miles
* Intervals may change after publication of this manual. Please refer to manufacturer’s publications
to ensure that you use the current manufacturer-recommended intervals and transmission fluids.
Refer to Servicing Schedule DIWA.5 Transmissions for other required maintenance inspections.
Local conditions, severity of operation or duty cycle may require more frequent fluid/filter change
intervals!
47
Air System
Check air compressor mounting fasteners.................................Every 6,000 miles
Check air tank mounting fasteners.............................................Every 6,000 miles
Test air dryer operation and check for leaks..............................Every 25,000 miles
Check air dryer mounting fasteners...........................................Every 25,000 miles
Inspect Haldex Consep air system condenser/separator............Every 25,000 miles
Clean brake valve treadle, plunger boot, mtg plate...................Every 25,000 miles
Oil brake valve treadle roller, roller pin, hinge pin....................Every 25,000 miles
Check brake valve plunger boot for damage.............................Every 25,000 miles
Put 2 drops oil between brake valve plunger & mtg plate . ......Every 25,000 miles
Test brake valve operation & check for leaks............................Every 25,000 miles
Inspect air compressor lines.......................................................Every 42,000 miles
Check compressor discharge and inlet for carbon.....................Every 42,000 miles*
Check compressor operation......................................................Every 42,000 miles*
Check all air lines and fittings for leaks.....................................Every 42,000 miles
Test governor operation and check for leakage ........................Every 50,000 miles
Disassemble and clean PPV’s....................................................Every 50,000 miles
Disassemble, clean, inspect single check valves.......................Every 50,000 miles
Rebuild PP-1 park brake valve..................................................Every 50,000 miles
Rebuild QR-1, SR-1, R-12DC, R-14, double check valves.......Every 100,000 miles
Rebuild air compressor..............................................................Every 200,000 miles
Rebuild AD-9 air dryer & replace desiccant..............................Every 300,000 miles
* Duty cycles higher than 25% require more frequent compressor inspection.
48
Wheels
Check wheel stud nut torque......................................................First 100 miles, then every 10,000 miles
Brakes
Inspect brake air hoses for damage............................................Every 6,000 miles
Check brake chambers for air leaks...........................................Every 6,000 miles
Check brake shoe lining thickness.............................................Every 6,000 miles
Lubricate slack adjusters............................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check slack adjustor operation..................................................Every 12,000 miles
Perform brake valve preventive maintenance............................Every 25,000 miles
Lubricate brake cam bushings...................................................Every 50,000 miles
Disassemble, clean, and inspect brake valve.............................Every 100,000 miles
Front Suspension
Re-torque suspension fasteners..................................................First 5,000 miles, then every 50,000 miles
Check air springs for wear and damage.....................................Every 24,000 miles
Check shocks and bushings for leaks and wear.........................Every 24,000 miles
Check for proper ride height......................................................Every 24,000 miles
Check for loose or damaged mounting parts.............................Every 24,000 miles
Test height control valve operation............................................Every 24,000 miles
Inspect torque rod grease seals..................................................Every 24,000 miles
Test kneeling system operation (if equipped)............................Every 24,000 miles
Rear Suspension
Re-torque suspension fasteners..................................................First 5,000 miles, then every 50,000 miles
Check suspension ride height.....................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check air springs for wear and damage.....................................Every 24,000 miles
Check shocks and bushing for leaks and wear...........................Every 24,000 miles
Check for loose or damaged mounting parts.............................Every 24,000 miles
Check kneeling system operation (if equipped).........................Every 24,000 miles
Inspect torque rod grease seals..................................................Every 24,000 miles
49
Steering/Front Axle
Check pitman arm for wear or damage......................................Every 6,000 miles
Grease drag link and steering arms............................................Every 10,000 miles
Lubricate steering column U-joints and shaft............................Every 12,000 miles
Check steering gear mounting bolt torque.................................Every 12,000 miles
Check tie rod ends for wear and loose nuts...............................Every 12,000 miles
Check steering arms for wear or damage...................................Every 12,000 miles
Lubricate steering intermediate shaft.........................................Every 12,000 miles
Grease behind output shaft dirt-and-water seal ........................Every 24,000 miles
Inspect steering shaft seal..........................................................Every 24,000 miles
Grease wheel bearings...............................................................Every 30,000 miles
Grease tie rod arm ends..............................................................Every 50,000 miles
Grease knuckle pins (king pins).................................................Every 50,000 miles
Drive Axle (71163)

Check gear oil in drive axle*......................................................Every 5,000 miles
Change gear oil in drive axle*†
City Service..........................................................................Every 25,000 miles or annually
(whichever comes first)
City Service with Synthetic oil............................................Every 100,000 miles or every 2 years
Highway Service..................................................................Every 100,000 miles or annually
Highway Service with Synthetic Oil....................................Every 250,000 miles or every 4 years
Inspect seals and gaskets for leaks.............................................Every 6,000 miles
Check axle mounting fastener torque........................................Every 24,000 miles
Check axle flange nut torque......................................................Every 24,000 miles
Clean differential breather.........................................................Every 42,000 miles
* No break-in oil change is needed. Check magnetic drain plugs, breathers, seals, and temperature
indicators during regularly-scheduled oil checks and changes.
† Fill Meritor axles with Meritor-specified lubricants only! See Specifications chapter for more
information.
50
Electrical
The following preventive maintenance intervals may not include all

systems that may be on your specific vehicle.
See the chart in “Adjusting Maintenance Intervals” at the beginning of
this chapter to convert mileage intervals to time intervals.
Misc. Components & Functions

Check doors, sensitive edge and interlock systems, and ramp.......................Daily
Check ramp external flasher and alarm during function.................................Daily
Perform exterior lighting test..........................................................................Daily
Test light bar indicators and lights on dash.....................................................Daily
Check stop request and PA systems................................................................Daily
Check kneeling system...................................................................................Daily
Check dash controls for proper operation.......................................................Daily
Check gauges..................................................................................................Daily
Check for system error codes: engine, trans., ABS, com fault, etc.................Daily
Check interior lights and hazard lights operation...........................................Daily
Check throttle and brake pedal for dirt, debris, corrosion, and function........Every 6,000 miles
Check power cable connections......................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check engine compartment lights for function and lenses.............................Every 6,000 miles
Test linear heat detector wires in engine compartment...................................Every 6,000 miles
Check emergency exit operation of doors......................................................Every 6,000 miles
Perform obstruction and extraction tests on sensitive edge*. .........................Every 4 months
Check lubricated battery tray slides and rollers..............................................Every 12,000 miles
Check and adjust headlight aim......................................................................Every 60,000 miles
Replace all relays and solenoids.....................................................................Every 150,000 miles
* See “Sensitive Edge Strip” in the Body and Interior chapter.
Jump Start Connections

Verify the boot is in place and inspect cables.................................................Every 6,000 miles
51
Electrical (Continued)
Fire Suppression Systems
Inspect system for bottle pressure and system OK.........................................Daily
Pre-operational check described in the manufacturer’s manual.....................Daily
Check/test system per manufacturer’s recommendations*. ............................Every 30 days
* It is crucial that you refer to the manufacturer’s manual, included with the coach, for monthly, semiannual,
and yearly testing/maintenance information!
Batteries
Check cables*, hold downs, and boots............................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check open circuit voltage with DMM & service any that are low (<12.4 VDC) & check system
........................................................................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Clean batteries of dirt and acid.......................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect for bulging case, damaged terminals..................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check battery electrolyte level and connection torques*................................Every 12,000 miles
Test with Midtronic tester per manufacturer’s procedures.............................Every 12,000 miles
Check voltage regulator settings . ..................................................................Every 24,000 miles
* See torque values in the “Power Cables” schematic in the Electrical Schematics Manual.
Starter
Inspect cables for damage or corrosion..........................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, reapply Kopr-Shield, and re-torque cables* . .......................Every 36,000 miles
Inspect bolts, cable support clamp, and brushes ............................................Every 36,000 miles
Check starter engagement protection circuit .................................................Every 36,000 miles
Check pinion teeth for damage ......................................................................Every 120,000 miles†
Service starting motor.....................................................................................Every 120,000 miles†
† Every 120,000 miles or every 30,000 starts. If you detect any chips or damage on the ring gear,
replace the ring gear at the same time you replace the starter motor.
52
Alternator
Inspect for oil leaks.........................................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect for support brackets at alternator, and torque bolts*...........................Every 6,000 miles
Check alternator for dirt buildup and grime...................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables and reapply Kopr-Shield and re-torque cables* ....................Every 36,000 miles
Change bearings and complete teardown check.............................................at Engine overhaul
Rear Main Fuse Panel (Flag)

Inspect for support brackets at alternator........................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, reapply Kopr-Shield, and re-torque cables and fuses*. ........Every 36,000 miles
* Verify that no washers are in the current path.
AC/Heater Unit
Inspect power and ground cables....................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect all electrical connections inside of return air......................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, reapply Kopr-Shield, and re-torque cables and fuses...........Every 36,000 miles
Remove cables, reapply Kopr-Shield, and re-torque cables at motors...........Every 36,000 miles
Chassis and Engine Harnesses
Inspect for dirt and salt buildup in chassis and clean......................................Every 12,000 miles
Check clamps, chaffing . ................................................................................Every 12,000 miles
Inspect for heat damage around hot areas, such as the turbo, muffler, etc.....Every 12,000 miles
Clean grounds, reinstall with Kopr-Shield, and torque...................................Every 36,000 miles
Battery Equalizer
Inspect for dirt and corrosion . .......................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, clean, apply Kopr-Shield & check torque connections .......Every 36,000 miles
Battery Cutoff Switch
Inspect for dirt and corrosion . .......................................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, clean, apply Kopr-Shield & check torque connections .......Every 36,000 miles
Check micro-switch for function ...................................................................Every 36,000 miles
Check battery switch for function and for continuity in open and close........Every 36,000 miles
53
Front Main Fuse Panel (Flag)
Inspect for support brackets at alternator........................................................Every 6,000 miles
Remove cables, reapply Kopr-Shield, and re-torque cables and fuses*. Verify that no washers
are in the current path.....................................................................................Every 36,000 miles
Rear Main I/O Panel Inside

Inspect power and ground cables, fuses, and circuit breakers........................Every 6,000 miles
Re-torque cables ............................................................................................Every 36,000 miles
Front Main I/O Panel Inside
Re-torque cables ............................................................................................Every 36,000 miles
Exit Door I/O Panel
Front Console I/O Panel
Drivers Heater / Fans/ Booster Fan
Inspect power and ground cables, switches, fuses, and circuit breakers........Every 60,000 miles
Inspect/replace brushes if equipped................................................................Every 80,000 miles
Ceiling Harnesses
Check clamps, chaffing, lamp sockets, ballast, etc.........................................Every 60,000 miles
Console and Dash
Check clamps, chaffing, lamp sockets, switches, etc......................................Every 60,000 miles
54
Body and Chassis
Lubricate wiper arm pivot posts................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect body for fluid leaks........................................................Every 6,000 miles
Wash underbody and inspect for damage and corrosion............Every 12,000 miles or as needed*
Inspect fenders and splash aprons..............................................Every 24,000 miles
Check wiper arm adjustment.....................................................Every 24,000 miles
Inspect welds on frame, brackets, etc........................................Every 30,000 miles
Check bumper mounting fastener torque...................................Every 42,000 miles
Check floor covering seam sealing............................................Every year
Reseal floor covering.................................................................Every 3 years or as needed
* Washing and inspection of the underbody should be done more often in areas with severe corrosion
problems. If your city, county, or state uses magnesium chloride as a de-icer, it is ESSENTIAL that
the underbody and engine compartment be washed and inspected frequently. Gillig does not warrant
its vehicles (structure, body, metal components, electrical and electronic components, etc.) against
corrosion/deterioration caused by magnesium chloride or similar de-icers unless the preventive
maintenance described in Chapter 11 is adhered to, including the annual reporting to Gillig. See your
specific warranty documents for details.
Doors
Check door panel alignment......................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect door seals for leaks or damage......................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect door sensitive edge........................................................Every 6,000 miles
Test emergency door release mechanisms.................................Every 12,000 miles
Check door motor and base plate fasteners................................Every 18,000 miles
Inspect air lines and connectors for leaks..................................Every 18,000 miles
55
Wheelchair Ramp (Ricon)
Check all hoses & fittings; replace as necessary.................................Every 6,000 miles
Check for loose/missing driveshaft coupling set screws....................Every 6,000 miles
Check for loose/missing sensor target set screws...............................Every 6,000 miles
Check for loose/missing ramp/actuator arm set screws......................Every 6,000 miles
Check for loose/missing pillow block set screws...............................Every 6,000 miles
Check tightness of drive arm shoulder screws*..................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect ramp interior area for dirt, debris; clean as necessary............Every 6,000 miles
Inspect non-slip flooring for damage, missing hardware....................Every 6,000 miles
Check for missing or poorly attached decals......................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect wiring & connections for damage or looseness......................Every 12,000 miles
Check tightness of all threaded fasteners; retighten as needed...........Every 12,000 miles
Check non-skid surfaces for wear, damage........................................Every 12,000 miles
Lightly grease pillow blocks (note that they are sealed).....................Every 24,000 miles
Check bushing/thrust washers for excessive play*.............................Every 24,000 miles
* Refer to the Ricon Service Manual
56
Air Conditioning
Check refrigerant charge............................................................Every 6,000 miles
Visually inspect refrigerant hoses & tubing...............................Every 6,000 miles
Visually inspect for refrigerant or oil leaks................................Every 6,000 miles
Check dry eyes in bottom receiver sight glass
and/or liquid line sight glass for moisture..................................Every 6,000 miles
Visually inspect clutch armature for wear.................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect compressor drive belt....................................................Every 6,000 miles
Check compressor oil level & color...........................................Every 6,000 miles
Visually inspect unit for loose, damaged, or broken parts.........Every 6,000 miles
Clean or replace return air filter.................................................Every 6,000 miles
Inspect condensor & evap coils for cleanliness.........................Every 6,000 miles
Install service gauge manifold set & check
system pressures, temperatures, & suction line.........................Every 18,000 miles
Check clutch air gap (X426, X430 only)...................................Every 18,000 miles
Check evap/heater blower & condensor fan
motor speed, voltage, & amps*..................................................Every 24,000 miles
Lubricate evaporator fan shaft bearings*...................................Every 24,000 miles
Inspect evap/heater blower & condensor fan
motor brushes, commutator, bearings*......................................Every 24,000 miles
Check EPR valve operation*.....................................................Every 48,000 miles
Replace liquid line dehydrator*.................................................Every 48,000 miles
Check hot water control valve (if installed)*.............................Every 48,000 miles
Steam clean compressor & clutch*............................................Every 48,000 miles
Check clutch coil resistance & voltage*....................................Every 48,000 miles
Lubricate clutch bushing*..........................................................Every 48,000 miles
Check high & low pressure cutouts*.........................................Every 48,000 miles
Check compressor oil for acidity*.............................................Every 48,000 miles
Check compressor efficiency*...................................................Every 48,000 miles
Check compressor oil pump pressure*......................................Every 48,000 miles
Check thermostat cycle sequence on all modes*.......................Every 48,000 miles
Clean control panel area & return air sensor
with compressed air*.................................................................Every 48,000 miles
57
Air Conditioning (continued)
Check heater booster pump motor operation*...........................Every 48,000 miles
Inspect wires/terminals for damage/corrosion*.........................Every 48,000 miles
Check condensor pressure switch/condensor
motor hi/low speed operation (if equipped)*.............................Every 48,000 miles
Check freeze thermostat (if equipped)*.....................................Every 48,000 miles
Clean condesor/evaporator drains & check
drain hose check valves (kazoos)*.............................................Every 48,000 miles
Visually inspect engine coolant hose & hose
clamp on heater coil system*.....................................................Every 48,000 miles
Clean condensor & evaporator coils*........................................Every 48,000 miles
Check engine coolant for antifreeze protection
down to 30° to prevent heater coil freeze*................................Every 48,000 miles
Tighten compressor, A/C unit, & fan motor
mounting hardware*..................................................................Every 48,000 miles
Check condensor air seals & air deflector (if installed)*...........Every 48,000 miles
Check evaporator blower shaft coupling
adjustment/alignment (if installed)*..........................................Every 48,000 miles
Replace booster pump bearings.................................................Every 6 years
* This service item should be done every year before the hot season, regardless of mileage.
58
Chapter 3– Engine
The following ISL 2007 information is included only to provide a general

reference. Refer to the Cummins manuals provided with your coach
before performing service on this engine.
The information in this chapter covers only the routine maintenance and service instructions for the
Cummins ISL 2007 engine. For complete coverage of engine maintenance, service, and troubleshooting,
refer to the Cummins manuals included in the manual package. Always have OEM (original equipment
manufacturer) manuals and the most up-to-date service bulletins on hand when performing maintenance
or service on the engine.
Cummins Inc.
500 Jackson Street
Columbus IN 47201
(812) 377-5000
www.cummins.com
This chapter also contains information covering engine-related systems on the coach, including the
lubrication, fuel, cooling, and air intake systems. Some engine air and electrical components are covered
in the Air System and Electrical chapters and the supplemental Electrical Schematics Manual.
Some components on the Cummins ISL 2007 engine run much hotter
than corresponding components on the ISL 2005 engine. Be extremely
careful when working near a hot engine to avoid serious burns!
Before working in the engine compartment, always locate, read, and

understand all warning decals.
59
Engine
Engine Oil ERVICE C
Proper maintenance includes the use of proper oil, checking the oil IS
J-4
AP
level daily, and following the prescribed oil and oil filter replace- SAE
ment intervals provided in the Preventive Maintenance section. 15W-40
Check engine oil container labels for information regarding various
American Petroleum Institute (API) designations of quality. The
specifications on the label must match those given in the following Figure 3-1, Oil Identification
section.
Engine Oil Specifications

Oil Quality Temperature ˚F
Oil quality is described by API (Ameri- -40˚ -20˚ -0˚ -20˚ 40˚ 60˚ 80˚ 100˚ 120˚ 140˚
can Petroleum Institute) engine service
categories, using a standard identifica- ALL SEASONS 5W-40 or 15W-40
tion symbol (see Figure 3-1). Cummins ALL SEASONS 10W-30
recommends the use of 15W‑40 multi- WINTER CONDITIONS 10W-30

grade oil meeting API category CJ‑4/SL WINTER CONDITIONS 5W-30
for all ISL 2007 engines. ARCTIC CONDITIONS 0W-30
If CJ-4/SL oil is not available, it is ac-
ceptable to temporarily substitute CI-4 -40˚ -30˚ -20˚ -10˚ 0˚ 10˚ 20˚ 30˚ 40˚ 50˚ 60˚
oils, however their use may require a Temperature ˚C
reduction in oil drain interval, depend- Figure 3-2, Preferred Viscosity Grades
ing upon the application and the fuel
sulfur level.
The use of “synthetic oils” (those made with API group 3 or group 4 base stocks) is permitted subject to
the same performance and viscosity limitations of petroleum (mineral) based engine oils. The same oil
change intervals must be applied to synthetic oils that are applied to petroleum (mineral) based
engine oils.
Use Cummins-specified lubricants only. Using non-approved lubricants

will void the Cummins warranty. Damage to the engine can result. Oil
must meet or exceed CES 20081. Refer to the label on the oil. Note that
not all CJ-4/SL oils meet the CES 20081 standard.
Do not use oils specifically marketed by suppliers for stationary, marine,

or railroad diesel engines or for stationary natural gas engines, even
those marked API category CD. Such oils can cause excessive valve train
wear and harmful combustion chamber deposits.
60
Engine
Oil Viscosity
Engine oil viscosity (resistance to flow) affects fuel economy. Lower viscosity engine oils can provide
better fuel economy; however, higher temperature conditions require high viscosity engine oils for
satisfactory lubrication. Using any oils with a viscosity other than as recommended could cause engine
damage. When choosing an oil viscosity, consider the range of temperature your vehicle will be operated
in before the next oil change. Refer to Figure 3-2 to determine the proper oil viscosity for your area’s
conditions.
Any viscosity grade lower than 15W-40 must still meet CES 20081!
The use of low-viscosity oils can aid in starting the engine at ambient
temperatures below 23˚ F (–5˚ C). However, continuous use of low-
viscosity oils can decrease engine life due to wear. Always use the highest
viscosity oil that will allow sufficient starter speed.
Checking the Oil Level

The best time to check the engine oil level is when the oil is warm. Check the oil level as follows:
1. Park the coach on a level surface and shut down the engine.
2. Allow at least 10 minutes for the oil to drain back to the oil pan from the time that the engine has
been shut down.
3. Check the oil level on the dipstick. The oil level should be in the crosshatched area between the
“ADD” and “FULL” lines. Never operate the coach with the oil level below the low mark or
above the high mark.
Probalyzer Sampling System

The optional Probalyzer™ brass mini-gauge sampling valve allows for easy engine oil sampling with-
out shutting down the unit. Sampling with the Probalyzer plug requires the compatible Probalyzer I cap,
which screws onto standard 4-ounce sample bottles, or the Probalyzer II Bottle, which is a self-contained
sampling bottle.
Probalyzer mini-gauge plugs carry a lifetime guarantee. Consult your Gillig Service representative for
more information, or call Titan Laboratories at (800) 848-4826. Titan Laboratories also offers analysis
services. Dust cap replacements are all available through your Gillig Parts representative.
61
Engine
Changing the Oil
Oil Change Intervals
Refer to the Preventive Maintenance chapter for the recommended oil and oil filter change interval.
More frequent intervals are recommended if any of the following severe operating conditions are en-
countered:
• Frequent long runs at high speeds and at high outside temperatures.
• Operation in dusty areas.
• Idling or low speed operation for extended periods.
• Operating when outside temperatures remain below freezing and when most trips are less than four
miles.
The use of synthetic oils does not justify the lengthening of oil-change
intervals. Any engine part failures caused by using the oil beyond
the recommended change intervals will not be covered under the
warranty.
“Energy Conserving” motor oils containing molybdenum dithiophosphate
should not be used with this engine, as this additive may cause copper
corrosion problems in heavy-duty diesel applications.
Oil Change Procedure

1. When changing the oil, start the engine and let the coolant temperature reach at least 140° F.
Draining the oil while it is warm permits all the oil and suspended contaminates in the oil sump
to easily flow out of the oil sump.
2. Shut down the engine.
Use a heat resistant pan with a capacity of at least 30 quarts to catch all
of the draining oil. After the oil has drained, deposit it at an authorized
oil reclamation center.
Engine oil being drained from a recently running engine can be extremely
hot, even if the engine has been running for a relatively short time. To
avoid hot oil contacting your hands or arms, use a socket wrench to
completely remove the oil pan drain plug.
62
Engine
3. Place a catch pan beneath the oil pan drain plug. Remove the plug and catch the used oil. Allow
time for all oil to drain.
4. Reinstall the drain plug. Do not overtighten; proper torque for the drain plug is 50 lb-ft.
5. Replace the oil filter element (if necessary) at this time. Refer to the “Replacing the Oil Filter”
section, which follows this section.
6. Add 20 quarts of oil through the engine oil fill tube (in addition, the filter should have been filled
with oil).
7. Check the oil level at the dipstick following the procedures given in the preceding “Checking the
Oil Level” section. Top off the oil as necessary. Do not overfill.
Engine Oil Filter

The ISL engine is equipped with a spin-on oil
filter (Fleetguard LF9009), mounted under
the filter head, just below the oil cooler on the
street side of the coach (Figure 3-3). This filter
contains an internal venturi that provides filter
bypass oil flow through a stacked disk section
of the filter. Lubricating oil filters must be of
the venturi style. Using an oil filter without a
venturi will result in premature engine wear.
Use only the LF9009 filter. Do not use an
LF3000 filter. The oil, supplied to the engine
by the oil pump, passes through the full flow
filter before reaching the various moving parts
of the engine. Refer to the Cummins Trouble-
shooting and Repair manual for information
about the filter bypass valve and oil flow in
general. Figure 3-3, Engine Oil Filter
63
Engine
Replacing the Oil Filter
The engine, filter head, and filter are hot. Take precautions to avoid
getting burned when changing the oil and filter.
1. Loosen and remove the old oil filter using a suitable filter wrench tool.
2. Dispose of the old filter in adherence to EPA guidelines.
3. Clean the filter header with a clean, lint-free cloth.
4. Lightly coat the new oil filter gasket with clean engine oil.
5. Fill the oil filter with fresh oil of the right grade and viscosity. Be careful to hold the filter upright
during and after filling.
6. Thread the new element onto the filter header and tighten it by hand until the seal touches the
adaptor filter head. Hand-tighten one full turn after contact is made.
Do not use any tools to tighten the oil filter. An overtightened or damaged
filter may fracture or leak.
7. Start the engine and run at low idle speed. Check the oil pressure gauge; if no oil pressure regis-
ters within 20-30 seconds of startup, shut the engine down immediately. Check for oil leaks. If
none are found, let the engine run until operating temperature (180°–206° F) is reached.
8. Shut the engine down and allow 15 minutes for the oil to drain into the oil pan.
9. Check the oil level using the dipstick and add oil as needed. Do not overfill.
64
Engine
Oil Pressure Gauges and Senders
The oil pressure senders are connected to the engine on the left (street) side of the coach, toward the rear
(flywheel) end of the engine. The “Low Oil Pressure” warning light/alarm system activates at the fol-
lowing engine speeds and oil pressures:
• At 700 rpm, oil pressure below 5 psi will trigger the alarm
Throttle
General Description
Engines on Gillig coaches use an electronically controlled throttle system. Electronic throttle systems
use a throttle pedal with a potentiometer to regulate the flow of fuel to the engine.
Whenever interlock is triggered (by activation of coach doors, fast idle, the lift master power switch,
or the kneeling system), the service brakes are automatically applied and a signal is sent to the engine’s
ECM to disable the throttle.
Placing the Master Interlock switch in the “Override” position can

result in unexpected movement of the coach, causing serious injury to
passengers or damage to the coach.
Fast Idle
The fast idle system is used to increase engine speed while building up air pressure within the system,
and to reduce the time required for warming up the engine. Due to high fuel costs and to prevent exces-
sive exhaust emissions, Gillig suggests that you review your operation to eliminate long periods of time
with the fast idle activated while the vehicle is parked.
65
Engine
Spinner II Oil Filter
The Spinner II model 976 is a centrifugal type oil filter. It works by receiving oil from the primary
filter (the primary filter is the first filter that the oil encounters in the filter loop) and sends the oil down
through a cylinder or bowl that spins at a high rate of speed driven by an air turbine. This pushes the par-
ticles in the oil to the sides of the bowl where they stick, and allows the clean oil to drain out the bottom
and back to the engine. Spinner II oil filters are built to be completely reusable, unlike a filament type
filter.
Like any other filter, the Spinner II requires regular inspection and cleaning. An added advantage with
the Spinner filter is that it can indicate an engine problem by the appearance of the dirt when it is being
cleaned. The dirt in the bowl should be caked or chalk like and crumble when removed. If the dirt ap-
pears soft and mushy, this indicates that the engine oil is contaminated with coolant and that inspection
of the head gaskets and checking for other internal component failures is required. Check and clean the
Spinner II filter at every oil change.
Spinner II Service Instructions

Clean and service the Spinner II filter (Figure 3-5) as follows:
If the coach has been in operation long enough to reach normal operating
temperatures (180°F to 190°F), use extreme caution when removing the
engine pan drain plug and filters as serious burns can result.
1. Shut off the engine and allow the centrifuge turbine assembly (D) to come to a complete stop.
2. Loosen the handle on clamp (B), disengage T-bolt and remove the cover (A), using a coin in the
gap to separate the cover from housing.
3. Partially withdraw the centrifuge turbine assembly (D) from the housing (E) and allow oil to
drain from nozzles (O) before removing the assembly completely. Hold the centrifuge turbine
assembly in one hand and loosen the knurled bowl nut (H) several turns until the face of the nut
projects beyond the bronze bushing face. Carefully separate the centrifuge bowl (K) from the
turbine body (U) by striking the face of the nut (H) with the palm of one hand while holding
the bowl in the other. Do not strike the nut or the bushing with or against a hard surface or
damage will result. Finish removing the nut and then remove the bowl and baffle/screen (M).
4. Simply replace the dirty centrifuge bowl with a new one, or carefully remove the dirt cake from
the bowl (K) using a wooden spatula or other non-damaging tool. Wipe out the bowl with sol-
vent.
Note: To save time in cleaning, an optional die-cut Bristol paper insert (L) is available as a ser-
vice part and may be installed to allow the compressed cake to be removed quickly.
66
Engine
The buildup in the bowl should be uniform and hard. Fuel dilution can
reduce buildup, and coolant leaks can cause a mushy texture. Uneven
buildup is due to a leak between the baffle/seal and the turbine base.
5. Wash and clean the baffle/screen (M) and turbine body (U), removing and inspecting the Viton
bowl seal (N). Replace the Viton seal if damaged.
6. Inspect top and bottom bushings of centrifuge turbine body (U). Replace the turbine assembly if
bushings show severe wear. Reassemble: Place the baffle/screen (M) over the stem of the turbine
body and seat evenly over the shoulder on the base. Install the bowl seal (N) in the recess in the
outer edge of the turbine base. Slide a new centrifuge bowl (K) over the stem and seat uniformly
over the bowl seal. Install and tighten the knurled bowl nut (H) securely, using finger pressure
only.
7. Inspect the housing assembly (E), paying special attention to journal areas of the spindle. Re-
place the housing if damaged.
8. Clean and inspect the cover (A). Always remove the old cover seal (C), and clean the groove in
the housing and mating surface of the cover. Examine the Viton seal and replace it if it is dam-
aged. The Viton seal can be reused several times.
DO NOT install the turbine assembly.
9. With the turbine assembly ready, but not installed, check the control mechanism (G). See Figure
3-4. Form the hook from any stiff wire.
10. Install the centrifuge turbine assembly (D) on the spindle. Be sure it rotates freely. Replace the
cover (A), position the clamp (B) uniformly over the cover and housing flanges, and tighten the
clamp handle securely by hand pressure only.
11. With the engine running, check all connections and joints for leaks.
To check air valve, with

air supply connected,
use hook at this point
under float arm to raise
and lower float. Up, air
on. Down, air off.
3/8 in.
9 in.
Figure 3-4, Top View with Centrifuge Removed
67
Engine
Centrifuge, Spinner II/Model 976 complete (73200)
Service kit, clean bowl (1 each items C, L, and N) (73265)
A. Cover (73191)
B. Clamp, cover to base (71266) Cover assembly (73266)
T-bolt and knob clamp (71270)

C. Seal cover, Viton® (71264)
H. Nut, centrifuge bowl (73239)
K. Bowl, centrifuge (73196)
D. Centrifuge turbine
L. Insert, paper, centrifuge bowl (package of 50) (73165) assembly (73236)
N. Seal, centrifuge bowl, Viton® (73240) (includes items H, K,
L, M, N, and U)
M. Baffle/screen, centrifuge (73197)
U. Body, centrifuge turbine (73194)
Screw, hex head cap, control mechanism

M10 x 35 mm (available locally)
*S. Repair kit, idle cut-out valve (71053) E. Housing assembly (73233)
T. Seal, idle cut-out valve (71054)
*F. Seal, control mechanism (Viton) (70996)

Repair kit, control float mechanism (71445)
G. Control mechanism
P. Kit, isolator, noise, with washers (set of 4) (71173)
assembly (70675)
(3/8-in. grade 5 bolts and nuts not supplied)
*q. Cartridge, air valve assembly (includes item R) (70938)
(optional assembly for turbo air supply (72137)
R. Seal, air valve cartridge, Viton (70966)

* Service Cycle: At unit rebuild or when required.
Figure 3-5, Spinner II Engine Oil Filter, Exploded View
68
Engine
Spinner II Troubleshooting
Centrifuge removes too little dirt.
Check for Proper Operation
Warm up the engine and then bring the engine to normal speed for one minute and immediately shut it
down. If the Spinner II unit is working correctly the turbine can be heard spinning. As with any high-
speed device, it may go through momentary periods of vibration as it passes through critical speeds
while slowing to a stop. This is normal. If the turbine is not spinning or if vibration is severe or continu-
ous at all speeds, an error may have been made in assembly. Repeat steps 1 to 10, paying special atten-
tion to the proper seating of the baffle/screen (M), the bowl seal (N) (Step 6), and the control mechanism
(Step 9). If vibration persists, substitute a different centrifuge turbine assembly (D).
If the turbine is spinning properly, the centrifuge is doing its job of removing harmful abrasive dirt re-
gardless of the amount of deposit found in the bowl. The visible deposit is largely soot and its thickness
will vary from 1⁄16" to completely full depending on oil type, oil change interval, engine type and condi-
tion, and operating conditions. Oil additive package design will affect soot size and thus the amount of
carbon and soot collected in the bowl.
Control air valve problems.

Float valve flows air constantly or not at all, up or down.
Air tank bleeds down overnight.
The valve cores on the Spinner II air control are special low operating
force types with green Viton® seals made to withstand high temperatures.
NEVER replace with tire valve cores.
Check Valve (Step 9)
Most air control problems can be repaired without dismounting the centrifuge by renewing the air valve
cartridge (Q), making certain that air valve cartridge seal (R) is in place. A cartridge installed without the
seal will be damaged and will leak continuously. If the float mechanism is worn or broken, the centrifuge
must be disassembled and repaired with control float mechanism repair kit. Instructions are contained in
the kit.
Oil leaks.
Cover Seal
Remove cover (A) and cover seal (C). Clean seal grooves in housing and mating surface on cover. Install
a new cover seal (B) in the housing groove, replace cover (A), position clamp (B) uniformly over cover
and housing flanges, and tighten clamp handle securely by hand pressure only.
69
Engine
Oil Leaks (continued)
Body to Control Mechanism Seal
Remove cover and centrifuge turbine assembly. Remove control mechanism by loosening four cap
screws. Discard seal (F) and clean groove and mating surfaces. Replace seal with a new one and re-
tighten cap screws alternately to 35 lb-ft torque. It is possible to rotate the body 180° if it is necessary to
locate the oil inlet port on the left side. Replace the seal and retighten bolts. Continue from Step 3 above.
Oil Line Connections
Disconnect leaking hose and remove hose adapter from port. Clean threads in port and on adapter, and
inspect for damage. Reinstall adapter using a good liquid thread sealant. Reconnect hose.
For parts, contact your Gillig Parts representative. For more information, contact your Gillig Field
Service representative, or T.F Hudgins Inc.
Spinner II Products
T.F. Hudgins Inc.
(713) 682-3651 or (800) 231-7746
P.O. Box 920946
Houston TX 77292-0946
www.spinnerii.com
70
Engine
Fuel System
Description
The fuel system includes the tank, pump, filters, and feed and return lines. The fuel pump provides
pressure to move fuel from the tank to the unit injectors and draws fuel through the supply line, check
valve, strainer, and filter. Fuel then passes through the fuel pump and goes to the injectors in the cylinder
heads. Surplus fuel is returned to the fuel tank through the return line.
Normal engine operation creates highly pressurized fuel in the fuel line
which will remain in the fuel line after engine shutdown. Never open
the fuel system when the engine is operating. Before servicing the fuel
system, always loosen the pump-to-rail fuel line at the rail to vent the
pressure. Keep hands clear of the line when loosening. High pressure
fuel spray can penetrate the skin, resulting in serious personal injury
or death.
Common Problems
Water Contamination
It is normal for small amounts of water to collect in the fuel tank due to condensation. However,
constant water contamination of the fuel system indicates a problem with the storage or passage of fuel.
Do not allow water to accumulate in the system. If it does, drain and clean the fuel tank and fuel lines
and replace the fuel filters. Drain the primary fuel filter often, as explained later in this section.
Algae formation is another danger to the fuel system of a diesel engine. Algae can clog the fuel filters
and injector nozzles. Since algae must have water to survive, it is important to keep water out of the fuel
system. It is advisable to purchase fuel from reputable dealers where there is a regular turnover and the
fuel does not stand for long periods. Try to keep the fuel tank topped off to prevent moisture condensa-
tion, especially if the coach will be parked for a long time.
Air in the Fuel System

Air drawn into the fuel system can result in rough running, stalling when idling, or a loss of power. An
opening in the fuel supply line may be too small for fuel to pass through but could allow air to enter. Use
the following procedure to check for air in the fuel system:
1. Disconnect the fuel return line from the connector at the front of the engine compartment bulk-
head. Do not disconnect the line at the bracket on top of the engine.
2. Immerse the end of the return line in a container of fuel, then start the engine.
3. Air bubbles rising to the surface indicate air is being drawn into the fuel line connections be-
tween the fuel tank and pump. Check for damaged lines and repair or replace as necessary.
4. See information in “Fuel Filters” on the next page.
71
Engine
Fuel Filters
The primary (suction side) fuel filter for the Cummins ISL engine on your bus is a Fleetguard FS1065
fuel/water separator. The secondary (pressure side) filter is a Fleetguard FF5636. To maintain warranty
coverage, replace each filter element with the identical make and model. The primary fuel filter provides
efficient fuel/water separation. Both the primary and secondary filters mount remotely from the engine
and are accessible through the curb-side access door. Note that the primary filter, shown in Figure 3-6,
has a drain valve and WIF (water in fuel) sensor. The WIF sensor tests conductivity and signals the en-
gine ECM if the fuel becomes too conductive, i.e., if there is too much water in the fuel.
Water should be drained from the primary filter on a daily basis. Drain no more than about 4 oz to avoid
having to re-prime the engine. See Chapter 2—Preventive Maintenance for filter change intervals.
Primary Fuel Filter Element Replacement
Wires and electrical equipment must be shielded during the filter change,
since diesel fuel can permanently damage electrical insulation.
Removal
1. Clean the area around the filter.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness from the WIF (water-in-fuel)
IN
IN
sensor.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the fuel heater, if equipped.
4. Loosen and remove the fuel filter.
5. Make sure the seal ring does not stick to the filter head.
6. Clean the area around filter mounting stud.
7. Dispose of the filter in an environmentally responsible manner,
according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.
WIF Sensor Drain Valve
Figure 3-6, Fleetguard

Fuel/Water Separator
72
Engine
Installation
Mechanical overtightening can distort the threads as well as damage the

filter element seal or filter canister.
1. Fill the primary fuel/water stripping (suction side) fuel filter with fuel.
Note: Do NOT fill the secondary (pressure side) fuel filter with fuel before installation.
2. Be sure the center seal ring is installed onto the filter spud.
3. Hand tighten the filter.
4. Connect the WIF sensor, and, if so equipped, the fuel heater.
Priming the Fuel System
Do not open the high-pressure fuel system with the engine running.
Engine operation causes high fuel pressure. High pressure fuel spray
can cause serious injury or death.
1. Turn on the ignition switch, which will cause the lift pump to run for 30 seconds. Do NOT
attempt to start the engine!
2. Turn the ignition switch off and wait 10 seconds. Turn it back on again, allowing the lift pump to
run again. Allow the lift pump to run for three or four 30-second cycles before attempting to start
the engine.
3. Start the engine. Once the engine is started, slowly increase the engine speed while air is purged
from the fuel plumbing.
To avoid starter damage, allow a 2-minute starter cooldown interval

after 3 starting attempts.
73
Engine
Secondary Fuel Filter Replacement
The secondary fuel filter should be replaced at the intervals specified in the Preventive Maintenance
chapter. The ISL engine on your bus uses the Fleetguard fuel filter (P/N FF5636).
Do not add fuel to the new filter before installing! Unfiltered fuel will
contaminate the fuel system and could necessitate costly repairs!
To replace the filter:
1. Clean the area around the filter head.
The wiring harness and other electrical equipment must be shielded

during the filter change, since diesel fuel can permanently damage
electrical insulation.
2. Use a piece of cardboard or other protective shielding to prevent being sprayed by fuel, in case
there is still pressure in the system, and remove the filter. Properly dispose of the filter.
3. Remove the fuel filter thread adaptor sealing ring.
4. Clean the gasket surface of the filter head.
5. Install the new thread adapter sealing ring supplied with the new filter.
6. Do not add fuel to the new filter (see CAUTION above). Lubricate the new filter’s O-ring seal
with clean 15W-40 lubricating oil.
To prevent air leaks, make sure the filter is installed tightly but not
overtightened. Mechanical overtightening can distort the threads or
damage the filter element seal.
7. Install the filter on the filter head. Turn the filter until the gasket contacts the filter head surface.
Tighten the filter an additional 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, or as specified by the filter manufacturer if us-
ing a filter other than the Fleetguard.
8. Prime the fuel system using the fuel lift pump as explained in “Priming the Fuel System” above.
74
Engine
Servicing Fuel Lines and Fuel System Components
Normal engine operation creates highly pressurized fuel in the fuel line
which will remain in the fuel line after engine shutdown. Never open
the fuel system when the engine is operating. Before servicing the fuel
system, always loosen the pump-to-rail fuel line at the rail to vent the
pressure. Keep hands clear of the line when loosening. High pressure
fuel spray can penetrate the skin, resulting in serious personal injury
or death.
Venting Pressure Before Servic-

ing Fuel System
Before servicing the fuel system, always
loosen the pump-to-rail fuel line. See
Warning above! When finished servicing
the fuel system, remember to tighten the
pump-to-rail fuel line to 48 ft-lb (65 N-m).
Servicing Fuel Lines

On the engine, flexible metal-shielded Tef-
lon lines are used between the fuel filter and
the fuel pump to minimize damage caused
by vibration. When installing fuel lines, it is
recommended that the connections be tight- Figure 3-7, Loosen Pump-to-Rail Fuel Line
ened only enough to prevent leakage. This
practice will help prevent twisting or breaking the flared line ends. After all fuel lines have been installed
and properly connected, run the engine long enough to determine that all connections are tight and not
leaking. If a leak is noted, tighten the connection only enough to stop the leak.
Servicing Fuel System Components

Before servicing any fuel system components (such as fuel lines, fuel pump, injectors, etc.), which
would expose the fuel system or internal engine components to potential contaminants prior to disas-
sembly, clean the fittings, mounting hardware, and the area around the component to be removed. Dirt or
contaminants can be introduced into the fuel system and engine if the surrounding areas are not cleaned,
resulting in damage to the fuel system and engine.
Fuel Check Valve

Depending upon the model of fuel filter(s) on your bus, a check valve may be installed in the supply
line in the engine compartment to prevent fuel in the line from being siphoned back into the tank when
the engine is not running. If the check valve is removed, be sure the valve is reinstalled with the word
“TOP” facing upward and the arrow stamped on the valve body pointing in the direction of flow.
75
Engine
Fuel Specifications
Proper fuel is an important element for good coach operation and long engine life. Using only high-
quality fuel will extend engine life, reduce overall maintenance costs, and create a cleaner exhaust,
under all operating conditions. The fuel should be clean and free of contamination. Storage tanks should
be inspected regularly for dirt, water, or water-emulsion sludge, and cleaned if contaminated.
Special Fuel Requirements for Particulate Filter

Cummins requires the use of Ultra Low Sulfur Fuel (ULSF) in ISL 2007 diesel engines. ULSF is
defined as fuel containing 15 parts per million (PPM) of sulfur or less. For special cold-weather-starting
fuel requirements, consult Cummins or your Gillig Service representative.
The use of supplementary fuel or lubricant additives is not recommended.

These include all products marketed as fuel conditioners, smoke
suppressants, masking agents, deodorants, tune-up compounds, top oil,
break-in oil, graphitizers, and friction-reducing compounds.
Do not blend any type of used lubricating oils into diesel fuel. In addition
to increasing exhaust emissions, this will cause increased engine wear.
Biodiesel fuel can damage components of the engine and fuel system,
and could have warranty implications. Please consult your Cummins
service representative, your fuel supplier, and your local BPA before
using biodiesel fuel.
Never mix gasoline, gasohol or alcohol with diesel fuel! This creates an
extreme fire hazard which could result in injury or death.
Use only the proper grade of diesel fuel recommended for your engine and purchased only from a
reputable seller. Do not use fuels sold only as heating or furnace oil. Using fuels other than those recom-
mended by the engine manufacturer may void the engine’s warranty. Never add or blend used engine oil
to diesel fuel. This will increase exhaust emissions and may cause damage to the engine.
76
Engine
Fuel Tank
The Low Floor transit bus is equipped with a single fuel tank (capacity 114 gallons net usable fuel)
mounted transversely at the front of the raised rear floor area of the bus (see Figure 3-8). It mounts to the
frame using two straps. A fuel filler neck is mounted in the end of the tank and is accessible through a
hinged door in the body skirt panel.
Diesel fuel is highly flammable. The fumes remaining in the tank after
it is drained are equally dangerous. USE EXTREME CARE WHEN
DOING ANY WORK ON THE FUEL SYSTEM. Only qualified
personnel should attempt to work on or repair the fuel system.
1 2
3
1 Emco Wheaton Fuel Fill Neck
6 2 Level Control Valve
3 Pressure Relief Valve
4 Fuel Supply Hose
5 Fuel Return
6 Fuel Tank Sump
Figure 3-8, Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Anti-Spill Device

The fuel tank anti-spill device consists of a level control valve, a whistle, and a pressure relief valve.
The whistle is attached to the level control valve and emits a whistling sound as the fuel tank is filled.
The level control valve stops the whistling sound when the tank is full and also acts as a check valve
preventing fuel from escaping in the event of a rollover.
77
Engine
The pressure relief valve automatically relieves excess tank pressure in the event of an accident or fire,
thus preventing the tank from rupturing. The optional fuel sending unit sends a modulated electrical
signal to the fuel gauge and indicates the fuel level.
The level control valve, whistle, and pressure relief valve are mounted on the fill neck and are accessible
through the fuel fill door. These components cannot be serviced without first removing the fuel tank. See
the section on fuel tank removal in this chapter.
Level Control Valve Replacement

The level control valve should be replaced if it does not perform satisfactorily. After the fuel tank has
been removed from its mounting, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the whistle valve from the level control valve.
2. Remove screws securing the valve to the fuel tank.
3. Remove the valve assembly and gasket.
4. Clean old gasket material from the level control valve mounting surface on the fuel tank.
5. Position a new level control valve gasket and level control valve on the fuel tank.
6. Install mounting screws and tighten securely.
7. The whistle valve is threaded into the level control valve. It can be cleaned in a suitable solvent
type cleaner and the operating spring can be replaced as required.
8. Thread the whistle valve into the level control valve and tighten securely.
Pressure Relief Valve Replacement

The pressure relief valve should be replaced with a new unit if it does not perform satisfactorily.
1. Remove screws securing the pressure relief valve to the fuel tank.
2. Remove the valve and gasket from the fuel tank.
3. Clean old gasket material from the valve mounting surface on the fuel tank.
4. Position a new gasket and pressure relief valve on the fuel tank. Install mounting screws and
tighten securely.
78
Engine
Fuel Tank Removal
Diesel fuel is highly flammable. The fumes remaining in the tank after
it is drained are equally dangerous. USE EXTREME CARE WHEN
PERFORMING ANY WORK ON THE FUEL SYSTEM. Only qualified
personnel should be assigned to work on or repair the fuel system.
1. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the tank and allow the fuel to drain into a suitable
container.
2. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the tank elbow connections.
3. Disconnect the wires from the fuel level sending unit.
4. Support the tank from the underside.
5. Remove the self locking nuts from the four fuel tank mounting straps. The tank can now be low-
ered and removed from beneath the coach.
Fuel Tank Installation

1. Install the drain plug in the bottom of the fuel tank and tighten it securely.
2. If the control valve and/or whistle were removed, replace them as directed in the appropriate
procedure above.
3. Position the tank so it can be raised into proper location under the chassis frame rails. Raise the
tank into position.
4. Ensure that the frame liners and strap liners are in position to prevent chafing of the tank after
installation.
5. Install NEW self locking nuts on the fuel tank mounting straps. Do not reuse the nuts; they lose
effectiveness after one use. Tighten the mounting nuts securely.
6. Reconnect the electrical wiring to the fuel level sending unit.
7. Wrap the threads of the feed and return fuel line connections with suitable sealant or tape and
connect the lines.
8. Fill the tank with fuel and bleed the supply line and filter to remove air. Check for leaks at the
line connections.
79
Engine
Engine Cooling
The heat generated by the engine is dissipated by a coolant solution that is circulated under pressure
within the cooling system. The cooling system includes the pump, radiator, surge tank, engine thermo-
stat, and the piping to connect the components. A fan powered by a hydraulic motor pulls air through the
radiator and over the engine for cooling.
The cooling system is filled through a filler cap on the surge tank. A pressure valve at the surge tank
maintains pressure within the cooling system. The thermostat is located in the thermostat housing on the
engine. When a cold engine is started or when the coolant temperature is below operating temperature,
the coolant flow to the radiator is blocked or restricted by the thermostat. A bypass provides coolant
circulation within the engine during the warm-up period.
Coolant from the engine pump is circulated through the transmission fluid cooler to absorb heat from the
transmission fluid. Refer to the Transmission chapter for coolant line connections at the fluid cooler.
The engine cooling system is also used to provide hot coolant for the coach driver heater/defroster and
passenger heating systems. Refer to the Climate Control chapter in this manual for information about
heating system coolant circulation.
Coolant Specifications
The proper coolant recommended for the engine is a solution of water and 45%–50% ethylene
glycol. Coolant must meet ASTM 6210 specifications (for more information, go to www.astm.org).
Coolant should also meet Cummins 14603 engineering specifications. Call your Cummins Service
representative for information on this standard. Concentrations of ethylene glycol over 68% should
be avoided because of poor heat transfer capability, adverse freeze protection, and possible clogging
of engine coolant passages. An acceptable substitute for ethylene glycol coolant is a type made with
propylene glycol, provided the two types are never mixed.
Use of coolant made with methoxyl propanol is not recommended.

Methoxyl propanol can damage seals and hoses and creates a potential
fire hazard. Use of unapproved coolant may void the engine’s
warranty.
Do not add coolant made with propylene glycol to an engine cooling

system containing ethylene glycol coolant, or vice-versa.
The cooling system requires a supplemental coolant additive in addition

to the water/antifreeze coolant solution. Note specifications and
maintenance requirements in the following section.
80
Engine
Supplemental Coolant Additive (SCA)
Testing the additive concentration level at scheduled intervals is essential (See the Preventive Main-
tenance chapter). Coolant additives provide the cooling system with corrosion protection, cavitation
suppression, pH control, and scale prevention. Be sure to follow the additive manufacture’s instructions.
Coolant additives must meet ASTM SCA standards (for more information, go to www.astm.org).
Call your Cummins Service representative for a list of approved brands of SCA.
Always maintain the proper concentration of coolant and coolant

additive. Failure to do so can result in engine damage.
Do not use sealer additives in the cooling system. Stop-leak additives
could cause plugging in the cooling passages.
1. Premix the water/antifreeze solution (and supplemental additive, if required after testing) in a
container. Premix the coolant solution in a container of sufficient size in the following order:
a. Soft, clean water
b. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol or propylene glycol)
c. Supplemental coolant additive.
Do not pour contents in the surge tank separately. They must be

thoroughly premixed in the above order.
Wait until the engine has cooled before pressing the relief valve to avoid
being sprayed with hot coolant.
2. Press the pressure relief valve (vent cock) on the surge tank, and hold it in the depressed position
until all the pressure is relieved from the system.
3. Open the surge tank filler cap. Slowly fill the system with the coolant solution until the sight
glass on surge tank indicates the system is full.
4. If the coolant level was very low, loosen the bleed screw on the upper coolant pipe to make sure
all air is expelled from the system.
5. Test for coolant additive concentration. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s manuals for pro-
cedures on testing additive concentration. Add additive to the system if low. Be careful not to
overconcentrate the coolant with additive.
81
Engine
Coolant Filter
Replace the coolant filter only with engine
manufacturer approved filters. Replace the
filter at the intervals provided in the Preventive
Maintenance chapter.
The filter change procedures described below
apply to standard filters recommended by the
engine manufacturer. OPEN
Filter Change Procedure

To change the filter, follow these steps:
1. Remove surge tank cap. CLOSED
2. Close the filter shutoff valves (Figure
3-9).
3. Remove the filter using a filter wrench/ Figure 3-9, Coolant Filter Shutoff Valves
strap. Note: The coolant filter header
is equipped with check valves which
prevent coolant from draining out of
the engine when the filter is removed.
4. Put a thin film of coolant on the filter gasket and install the filter on the filter header.
5. Tighten until the gasket touches the filter header. Tighten by hand one additional turn. Do not
overtighten!
Tighten coolant filter by hand only! Mechanical overtightening may

distort the threads or damage the coolant filter head.
82
Engine
Draining the Cooling System
Coolant drain points are provided at the thermostat housing, engine, radiator, coolant pipes, air compres-
sor, transmission oil cooler, and in the heating system. When the solenoid valve in the heater supply line
and the gate valves in the water return lines are closed, the cooling system can be drained without having
to drain the heater lines. To drain the system:
When draining the coolant system, do not allow the cooling system to
dry out and do not remove the coolant filter.
Coolant is under pressure and extremely hot after the engine has been
running. To avoid the possibility of being sprayed with hot coolant, wait
until boiling stops and the engine has cooled before pressing the relief
valve.
1. Press and hold the relief valve (vent cock) at the surge tank to relieve pressure from the system.
2. When all pressure and steam have escaped from the system, pull the handle until the cap is
opened to the limit of the safety catch. Release the safety catch and completely open the cap.
Block it open to vent the cooling system while draining.
3. Place a suitable container underneath the drain cock. A large container is necessary, as the system
holds approximately 20 gallons of coolant.
The coolant may be very hot. Take precautions to avoid hot coolant
touching your skin.
4. Open the drain cock on the lower coolant pipe and the remove the coolant drain plug from the
radiator. Allow the system to drain.
5. Dispose of used coolant in accordance with environmental regulations.
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Engine
Flushing the Cooling System
Do not allow the cooling system to freeze during the cleaning procedure,
as the system is not under the protection of antifreeze. Do not flush the
cooling system when ambient temperatures are at or below freezing.
1. Open the surge tank cap and bleed screw on the upper coolant pipe. The surge tank cap and bleed
screw should remain open during the flushing process.
2. Slowly refill the cooling system with clean, soft water and a good cooling system cleaner. If the
engine is warm, fill slowly.
3. When system appears to be full, wait 2 to 3 minutes to allow the air to be vented, then top off the
water/cleaner solution.
4. Turn the heater temperature switch to “HIGH” to allow maximum coolant flow through the
heater core. The fan does not have to be on.
5. Start and run the engine for the time period recommended by the manufacturer of the cooling
system cleaner.
6. Stop the engine and allow it to cool.
7. With the engine cool, drain the cooling system completely.
8. Refill the cooling system with clean, soft water and let the engine run for 15 minutes.
9. Stop the engine and allow it to cool.
10. With the engine cool, drain the cleaner residue from the cooling system following the above in-
structions on “Draining the Cooling System.” If the water being drained is still dirty, the system
must be flushed again until the water is clean.
11. Proceed to the “Coolant Fill Procedure” once the cooling system is clean.
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Engine
Coolant Fill Procedure
Before filling the cooling system, read the “Coolant Specifications”

section to ensure using the proper antifreeze and coolant additive.
1. Close all drain cocks and replace all drain plugs.
2. Loosen the bleed screws on the upper coolant pipes.
3. Mix the coolant solution in a container with a capacity over 20 gallons as follows:
a. Pour 10 gallons of soft, clean water into the container.
b. Pour 10 gallons of ethylene glycol antifreeze into the container. The water and antifreeze
should be a 50/50 solution.
c. Pour supplemental coolant additive into the container. Refer to instructions provided by the
additive maker for concentration specifications. Take into consideration the concentration of
additive supplied by the coolant filter when determining how much liquid additive to add to
the coolant mixture.
d. Mix the water, antifreeze, and coolant additive thoroughly.
4. Slowly pour the premixed coolant solution into the surge tank. Fill the system until coolant runs
from the bleed screws in the upper coolant pipes.
5. Tighten the bleed screws, start the engine, and switch on the driver heater/defroster. Keep the
surge tank cap removed to allow the entrapped air in the system to be purged.
6. Stop the engine and replace the surge tank cap.
7. Run the engine again for at least five minutes. Then check the coolant level on the surge tank
sight glass.
8. Add coolant as necessary to top off the system. Open the bleed screws on the upper coolant pipe
to be sure only coolant comes out.
9. Tighten the bleed screws.
85
Engine
Cooling System Maintenance
A pressurized cooling system is used on the coach and normally operates at temperatures higher than
non-pressurized systems. It is important that the system is kept clean and leak free, the filler cap and
pressure relief mechanism are correctly installed, and coolant levels are properly maintained. Perform
regular maintenance on the cooling system according to the specifications in the Preventive Maintenance
chapter of this manual.
1. At the surge tank, check the coolant level by observing the level in the sight glass. If liquid is
visible in the sight glass, the system contains enough coolant. If coolant is not visible in the sight
glass, add as necessary to bring the level up to the bottom of the filler cap opening.
2. Check hose connections and tighten clamps as necessary. Replace cracked, swollen, or deterio-
rated hoses as necessary. With Oetiker constant tension clamps, the only check needed is to make
sure the clamp is in place. See “Oetiker Constant-Tension Hose Clamps” later in this chapter.
3. Check the radiator core and both the driver and passenger heater cores for leaks and for accumu-
lation of dirt obstructing the air flow. Clean the cores with an air hose using low air pressure. It
may be necessary to use a suitable cleaning solution, such as oleum and water, to remove heavy
dirt accumulations from the radiator and core. Inspect and repair bent radiator fins. Repair all
cooling system leaks as soon as they are detected. Refer to the engine manufacturer’s service
manual for procedures for replacing leaking cylinder head gaskets and for the removal and over-
haul of the engine water pump.
4. Inspect the radiator mountings and tighten the mounting bolts as necessary.
5. Check fan operation.
6. Inspect for proper clearance between the fan and the radiator core and fan shroud and correct as
required. The fan shroud must fit airtight against the radiator to prevent recirculation of the hot
air drawn through the radiator.
7. Inspect the baffles between the radiator assembly and the access door. The baffles should be in
good condition and not allow air to recirculate around the radiator.
8. If the engine operating temperature is outside the normal range of 180°–206° F, several possible
causes, starting with the cooling fan, should be checked and eliminated before the thermostat is
removed. A defective thermostat which remains closed, or only partially open, will restrict the
flow of coolant and cause the engine to overheat. A thermostat which is stuck in the full open
position may not permit the engine to reach its normal operating temperature.
86
Engine
Radiator
The radiator is mounted on chassis outriggers at the left rear corner of the coach in the engine com-
partment. Rubber vibration mounts isolate the radiator from the chassis vibrations. An adjusting rod is
installed on each side mount to allow adjustment. Baffles mounted on the inside of the radiator access
door ensure that cool outside air is drawn through the radiator core to cool the heated coolant. Hot cool-
ant enters the radiator through the upper piping, circulates through the core, and returns to the engine
through the lower piping.
The radiator assembly consists of three components: the engine coolant

radiator, the charge air cooler, which receives hot air from the engine
turbocharger and cools it before it returns to the engine, and the
hydraulic oil cooler. If any of these components need to be serviced, the
whole radiator assembly must first be removed from the bus.
5/16-18 uNc
radiator header/tank bolts
torque 27–29 ft-lb
Installation Torque Values

3/8-16 uNc 30–32 ft-lb
cross brace fasteners 80–90 in-lb
Radiator Charge Oil Cooler

Air Cooler
Figure 3-10, Three-In-One Radiator
87
Engine
Inspection
At regular intervals, inspect the radiator mounting bolts for tightness. Inspect the isolators for deteriora-
tion or wear. Inspect the piping and hoses for deterioration or damage. Repair or replace any parts with
evidence of deterioration or damage. Check clamps and connectors for proper installation and tight-
ness. Examine the radiator core for leaks or damage to the fins. A damaged or clogged radiator should
be serviced by a radiator specialist or replaced with a new one. If the radiator core requires painting, use
special radiator paint (not an oil base paint, which prevents proper cooling). Drain and flush the entire
cooling system at the intervals recommended in the Preventive Maintenance chapter of this manual.
Removal
1. Drain the cooling system as described under “Draining the Cooling System” earlier in this chap-
ter.
2. Disconnect all hose and piping connections to the radiator, including the breather line at the top.
Label each line for ease in reassembling the unit later.
3. Support the radiator from the bottom. Remember that the radiator is very heavy. Remove the
brace rods and mounting bolts.
4. Lower the radiator to clear the top of the door opening and rotate it sideways enough to fit
through the radiator access door. Using a suitable lifting device, the radiator may now be re-
moved through the radiator access door opening.
Installation
1. Use a suitable lifting device to lift the radiator and position it in place between the chassis outrig-
gers. The assembly must be turned to the side enough to fit through the access door.
2. Install the mounting bolts, isolators, and brace rods. Tighten the mounting bolts securely over
the vibration mounts. Vertical alignment is accomplished using the adjusting rods to position the
radiator correctly within the opening. Tighten the adjusting nuts on the brace rods to compress
the bushings used there.
3. Connect the previously tagged hose and pipe lines to the radiator. Loosely install the clamps.
4. Tighten the hose clamps on the inlet, outlet, and breather hoses. See “Oetiker Constant-Tension
Hose Clamps” below.
5. If the surge tank was removed, install it on the mounting bracket with bolts at this time. Tighten
the bolts to 25–35 ft-lb (35–45 N-m) torque.
6. Fill the radiator and cooling system according to the procedure given in “Filling the Cooling Sys-
tem” earlier in this chapter. Operate the engine and check the system for leaks. Check to ensure
the system was filled to the proper level.
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Engine
Oetiker Constant-Tension Hose Clamps
Installation
1. Open the screw until it stops at the D-nut.
2. Preset interlocks 1 and 2 (see Figure 3-11) in the window openings specified in the table below.
Ensure the tongue is in the groove.
3. Slip the preset clamp over the end of the hose and then slip the hose/clamp assembly over the
hose fitting.
There should be no play between the hose and the clamp.

4. Using a torque nut driver or similar torque tool, torque the adjusting screw to:
• 8 in-lb for unpainted (plain) spring clamp
• 18 in-lb for green painted spring clamp
Do not over tighten!

5. Check the gap between the D-nuts. The gap should be a minimum of 3 millimeters (1/8") and the
spring should be fully compressed (See Figure 3-12).
Spring D-Nut
Screw
D-Nut
Window 3
Window 2
Tongue in
Window 1 Groove
Interlock Tab 1 Interlock Tab 2
Range Control Latch
Figure 3-11, Oetiker Constant-Tension Stepless Spring Clamp
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Engine
Hose/clamp/fitting Combinations for Gillig Blue Silicon Hose Applications
Hose Size Gillig Hose Interlock Tab 1 Torque
Clamp Part No. Clamp Size Spring Type
(inch ID) Part No. in Window: (in-lb)
3/4 56-09015-000 53-21364-046 28 Plain Window 2 8
7/8 56-09016-000 53-21364-051 32 Plain Window 2 8
1 56-09017-000 53-21364-052 36 Plain Window 2 8
1-1/8 56-09018-000 53-21364-002 40 Plain Window 2 8
3mm (1/8") Gap

Between D-nuts
Spring Fully Compressed
Figure 3-12, Check Gap Between D-nuts
Hose Clamp Removal Instructions

1. Open the screw without disengaging it from the D-nut.
2. Lift the range control latch and remove the clamp from the application.
90
Engine
Refurbishment
The radiator is subject to corruption from dirt, salt, and other foreign matter which enter the radiator fins.
This corruption as well as bent radiator fins caused by steam cleaning account for a significant reduction
of radiator cooling efficiency. The following steps can be taken to return radiator cooling efficiency to
near 100%.
Gillig recommends that damaged or clogged radiators be serviced by a

radiator specialist.
1. Airside Cleaning (exterior of radiator)
a. Soak radiator for 24 hours in a hot (150°F) non-caustic detergent solution with all fittings
plugged. This will remove the salt, sand, road oils, brake lining, mud, and tire rubber/carbon
black.
b. Spray the core with solvent until the fin louvers are free of dirt.
c. Wash and air dry. Repaint if necessary.
2. Waterside Cleaning (interior of radiator)
a. Remove top and bottom bolted tanks.
b. Rod out each core tube with a lance to push debris out of each tube.
c. Flush the tube with a high pressure solvent spray.
d. Wash and air dry.
3. Fin Combing
Straighten the fins to the original geometry with needle nose pliers or a fin comb.
These refurbishment procedures can be easily performed by a good radiator repair shop. Performing the
air side cleaning procedure monthly and maintaining the proper 50/50 coolant concentration will pre-
serve radiator efficiency. The main cause of radiator fin bending is overly aggressive steam or water hose
cleaning of the radiator.
91
Engine
Surge Tank
The surge tank (Figure 3-13) is mounted separately from the radiator in the left rear corner of the engine
compartment. It is equipped with a fill cap, an automatic pressure relief valve, a manual pressure relief
valve, an overflow tube, two sight glasses, and a low coolant indicator probe.
The automatic pressure relief valve performs two functions: relief of excessive pressure, and addition of
air when the coolant contracts when the engine stops running.
The manual pressure relief valve allows for manual relief of system pressure to perform maintenance or
system inspections.
Each of the two sight glasses consists of a screw-in lens, a seal, and a lens base. The lens is removed by
turning the glass in a counterclockwise direction. Use a new O‑ring when installing a new sight glass.
Be careful not to damage the threads on the edge of the glass.
Surge Tank Removal Manual Pressure Auto Pressure

Relief Valve Relief Valve
1. Relieve system pressure using the manual
pressure relief valve.
2. Drain the cooling system to a level below the
level of the surge tank.
3. Detach and tag all lines to the tank, including
the electrical line to the low coolant indicator
probe, if installed.
4. Remove the mounting bolts, washers, and
nuts that attach the tank to the side framing.
Remove the tank from the coach through the
rear engine door.
5. Replace or repair parts or components
as necessary.
Sight Glasses Low Coolant
Surge Tank Installation Fill Cap
Indicator Probe
1. Ensure that the tank is free from debris or Overflow Tube

contaminants.
Figure 3-13, Surge Tank
2. Install the bolts, washers, and nuts to secure
the tank to the side framing. Tighten the bolts
to 25–35 ft-lb (35–45 N-m) torque.
3. Connect all lines and electrical leads.
4. Top up the system as prescribed in “Coolant
Fill Procedure” in this chapter.
92
Engine
Air Intake System
The air intake system routes the fresh outside air through the filter and into the turbocharger air intake.
Parts of the air intake system include the air cleaner assembly and the piping, hoses, and hardware
that connect it to the engine. The air cleaner contains a dry, replaceable filter element which should be
replaced when the red marker in the air restriction indicator window pops up. After replacing the air
cleaner filter element, reset the air restriction indicator by depressing the button at the bottom of the unit.
The air cleaner system should be inspected at intervals specified in the “Maintenance Schedule” in the
Preventive Maintenance section of this manual. It is recommended that a schedule be established for
replacing the air cleaner filter element based on manometer readings taken at scheduled intervals.
Air Intake Inspection

It is not necessary to disassemble the air cleaner for inspection.
1. Inspect the air cleaner body for cracks and loose mounting bolts or nuts.
2. Check to be sure the restriction indicator is not loose or damaged.
3. Check the air induction hose clamps for tightness. Tighten loose clamps and replace clamps
which are damaged or broken.
4. Inspect the air induction hoses for holes or leaks.
5. Check for loose, broken, or missing mounting brackets.
Air Cleaner Troubleshooting

Attempt to determine the exact nature of the problem and its causes. If the trouble involves the air
cleaner, it will fall into one of two types:
• Those which result in short element life.
• Those which allow dust to enter the engine.
If the problem is with the air cleaner, follow the steps listed below.
Short Element Life

1. Check to make sure the inlet is located away from heavy dust concentrations.
2. Check the inlet location to be sure that exhaust gasses are directed above and away from the air
cleaner inlet. Soot from exhaust is a prime enemy of paper filters.
3. Check the air supply to the air cleaner inlet. It must be unrestricted.
4. Check to make sure the air cleaner element was new or properly cleaned when installed.
5. Check the clean air ducting after the air cleaner to be certain it is unrestricted.
6. Check the service indicator for damage, working lockup function, and correct calibration.
7. Low pre-cleaner efficiency will cause short element life. Low pre-cleaning efficiency can be
caused by:
a. Leaking dust cup to air cleaner body joint. The cup must seal 360° around the air cleaner.
b. Plugging or buildup in the vanes of the pre-cleaner.
c. Damage to the pre-cleaning section of the air cleaner.
93
Engine
Dust Entering The Engine
1. Check that the element has not been damaged in handling. Examine for dents and holes.
2. Check to make sure all gaskets are sealing. Examine for dust trails which indicate leaks.
3. Examine the clean air transfer tubing for cracks, loose clamps, or loose flange joints.
4. Check the air compressor connections to be sure there are no leaks.
Air Restriction Indicator

The air restriction indicator can be
found on the center of the horizontal
air intake pipe, which runs between the
air filter assembly and the turbocharger
(see Figure 3-14). This indicator should
be checked daily with the engine run-
ning at FAST IDLE. If the window in
the indicator is RED (the normal color
is green), the air filter element requires
replacement. Do not replace the air filter
element unless the red flag of the air
restriction indicator is showing or until
the restriction on a manometer, with the
engine at full load, is 30 inches H20.
Figure 3-14, Air Restriction Indicator
The air filter element may look excessively dirty well before it reaches
maximum dirt holding capacity. It may still provide many miles of
service. Determine when to replace the air filter element by referring to
air restriction indicator and manometer readings. A moderate buildup
of dirt and dust acts as a prefilter and can actually make the filter more
efficient at removing contaminants.
94
Engine
Filter Element Replacement
The air filter draws fresh air from the right side of the coach. It
is visible when the engine compartment door is open. Read “Air
Restriction Indicator” and the NOTICE above before replac-
ing the air filter element.
Filter Element Removal

1. Remove the nuts securing the bottom cover of the air
cleaner.
2. Remove the cover and slide out the old element. Wipe out
the inside of the container with a clean cloth.
Filter Element Installation

1. Inspect the gasket sealing surface inside the air cleaner. It
must be smooth, flat, and clean.
2. Check to insure that all inlet and outlet accessories are of
the correct size and are not plugged.
3. Insert the new filter element.
4. Replace the bottom cover and install the nuts removed in
Step 1, Removal. Tighten the nuts securely to 8 ft-lb (10.5 Figure 3-15, Air Filter Element
N-m) torque.
5. Reset the air restriction indicator by depressing the button
on the top of the indicator. Verify that the color in the win-
dow of the indicator is GREEN.
Air Cleaner Assembly Removal

1. Disconnect the air restriction indicator supply hose.
2. Loosen the clamp securing the air intake hose and disconnect the hose from the air cleaner as-
sembly.
3. Loosen the clamp securing the hump hose and disconnect the hump hose from the air cleaner as-
sembly.
4. Support the air cleaner assembly and remove the two nuts and two bolts from the mounting
bracket clamps.
5. Carefully lower the air cleaner assembly from the engine compartment.
Air Cleaner Assembly Installation

Reverse the removal procedure. When installing the air cleaner assembly, be sure that the unit is prop-
erly positioned in the mounting bracket clamps before installing and tightening the clamp bolts. Use care
when tightening the clamp bolts not to overtighten to the point where the body will be deformed.
95
Engine
Exhaust System
The exhaust system is made up of the engine exhaust manifold, a turbocharger, an exhaust pipe, a
muffler/particulate filter, and an exhaust diffuser. Hot exhaust gases from the exhaust manifold are
directed to the turbocharger. The pressurized exhaust gases rotate a turbine wheel at one end of a turbine
shaft in the turbocharger. This rotational force is transmitted to another turbine wheel at the other end of
the turbine shaft, which compresses intake air going to the cylinders for more efficient combustion. For
service information and a more detailed description of the engine turbocharger, refer to the appropriate
section of the Cummins Service Manual furnished with the coach.
Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)

The particulate filter (Figure Figure 3-16), which is a component in the muffler, helps your bus meet
strict air-quality requirements by removing particulate matter from diesel engine exhaust. Under normal
operating conditions the filter collects and burns particulate matter, however inorganic ash derived from
the lubricating oil does not burn. This ash slowly accumulates in the particulate filter, making periodic
cleaning necessary.
Fuel Requirements for Particulate Filter

See important information in “Fuel Specifications” earlier in this chapter!
Exhaust Diffuser
Coaches with 2007 engines have a Gillig exhaust diffuser installed in place of a tail pipe.
Exhaust can reach temperatures of over 1,500°F. Do not park or idle

your bus with the exhaust outlet in close proximity to flammable objects.
Be extremely careful not to touch any part of the exhaust system while
it is hot!
Automatic Active Regeneration

The CPF (Cummins particulate filter) used on 2007 engines is an active particulate filter, which monitors
exhaust system backpressure and regenerates when necessary. When backpressure reaches a certain pre-
programmed level, the particulate filter goes into an active regeneration mode.
Stationary Regeneration
Stationary regeneration of the particulate filter must be activated using the Cummins service tool.
96
Engine
Exhaust Diffuser
Delta Pressure Sensor
Temperature Sensor
Outlet Section
Filter Section
Temperature Sensor V-Band Clamp
Catalyst Section
Temperature Sensor
Inlet Section
Figure 3-16, Particulate Filter and Exhaust Diffuser
97
Engine
Exhaust System Maintenance and Cleaning
All joints and clamps in the exhaust system should be routinely and
regularly inspected for tightness and integrity. The leaking of exhaust
gases into the passenger area can be dangerous and life-threatening.
The exhaust system should be inspected periodically for leaks. Exhaust leaks are commonly the result
of loose clamp bolts and corroded pipes. Damaged components should be repaired or replaced immedi-
ately.
Cleaning and Maintenance Procedure

The Cummins Particulate Filter Lamp signal con-
trols the Particulate Filter indicator lamp on the
indicator lamp strip to notify the operator that the
particulate filter needs to regenerate within the next
several hours of engine operation.
When the Particulate Filter lamp is on, this indi-
cates that the initial level of regeneration is needed.
If the need to regenerate becomes more urgent the
lamp will begin to blink at the 1 Hz rate. If the Figure 3-17, Particulate Filter &
need to regenerate progresses to a critical level, the Exhaust Temperature Lamps
Check Engine lamp will illuminate solid with the
Particulate Filter lamp continuing to blink. If the need for regeneration progresses to the next level, the
Particulate Filter lamp will turn off and the Stop Engine lamp will illuminate solid as an indication that
the particulate filter can no longer regenerate while installed in the vehicle. At this level the particulate
filter must be removed and cleaned as explained below.
The High Exhaust System Temperature Lamp signal controls the Exhaust Temp indicator lamp to notify
the operator that the exhaust system is or is about to increase above normal temperature levels for the
current engine operating condition. The increased temperature can be from residual heat from a previous
operating condition or from an active regeneration of the Cummins particulate filter.
98
Engine
Mask, gloves, and safety glasses must be worn while servicing the
particulate filter.
The material captured in a diesel particulate filter may contain elevated

concentrations of metals, primarily zinc and molybdenum, and possibly
polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons that may be regulated. These
materials must be characterized, handled, and disposed of according to
applicable local regulations. In addition, due to the presence of the above-
listed chemicals and other potentially toxic components such as oxides of
calcium, zinc, phosphorous, silicon, sulfur, and iron, filter maintenance
must be completed only by appropriately trained personnel.
If the diesel particulate filter is being removed for an ash cleaning

maintenance interval, use a Cummins service tool to perform a stationary
regeneration prior to removing the diesel particulate filter. Performing a
stationary regeneration prior to performing an ash cleaning will:
• Aid in cleaning the filter by minimizing the soot load of the filter
• Reset the stored soot load in the engine’s ECM in preparation for the
cleaned filter
• Check the diesel oxidation catalyst efficiency
• Check the aftertreatment system operation.
Follow these steps to remove and clean the particulate filter:
1. Turn the battery disconnect switch off.
2. Refer to Figure 3-16. Read all instructions before performing the following procedures.
The aftertreatment diesel oxidation catalyst elements contained in the

aftertreatment system are made of brittle material. Do not drop or strike
the side of the aftertreatment system as damage to the aftertreatment
diesel oxidation catalyst element can result.
99
Engine
3. Mark the direction of exhaust flow to aid in assembly. Draw an orientation reference line across
each of the V-band clamps, aftertreatment canister sections, and connection points to the exhaust
pipe. This aids in lining up sections and V-band clamps to their original orientation during instal-
lation.
4. Disconnect the exhaust gas temperature sensor electrical connector(s) to the wire harness. Dis-
connect the aftertreatment diesel particulate filter differential pressure sensor tube(s).
Do not use an air tool to remove or tighten the V-band clamp nuts. An
air tool will damage the threads. Apply thread lubricant to the V-band
clamp threads prior to nut removal and installation.
5. Loosen the V-band clamp at the DPF outlet, and swing the outlet pipe away from the outlet
section of the particulate filter. Loosen the two bolts at the upper mounting bracket for the par-
ticulate filter and loosen the V-band clamp holding the outlet section to the filter section on the
particulate filter. Now slide the outlet section up on the mounting bracket and retighten the bolts
to hold it out of the way.
6. Remove the filter section of the DPF by opening the clamps holding the filter module in place.
Check the nameplate on the module for identification. Separate the mating modules by approxi-
mately 1" to allow removal over the gasket retainer rings. Note the orientation of the filter in
the exhaust flow because it will be reinstalled with flow in the same direction.
7. Visually inspect the filter section:
a. Inspect the outlet of the filter module for the presence of black residue on the surface. If resi-
due is present, inform your Cummins Emission Solutions distributor.
b. If the particulate filter has shifted, moved, or is loose inside of the canister, replace the par-
ticulate filter.
c. If the particulate filter canister is cracked or damaged, replace the aftertreatment diesel par-
ticulate filter.
Do not use an open flame to burn off soot accumulation from the face
of the diesel particulate filter.
Do not scrape off soot accumulation from the face of the diesel
particulate filter.
100
Engine
The particulate filter relies on gas flow through the walls to collect soot.
To accomplish gas flow through the walls of the particulate filter, every
other cell on its faces is plugged with a ceramic material. Therefore, it
is not possible to see light straight through the holes in the particulate
filter.
If the particulate filter is being replaced due to progressive damage

from engine oil or coolant, clean the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger
outlet to the aftertreatment diesel oxidation catalyst, including the
aftertreatment inlet.
8. Replace the filter with a backup filter. Gillig recommends that you return the aftertreatment diesel
particulate filter section to a Cummins authorized repair location for cleaning, replacement, or
exchange.
If you clean the filter on-site, do so according to Cummins instructions. The particulate filter
can not be cleaned for maintenance purposes using conventional tools. It must be cleaned
and checked using a diesel particulate filter cleaner, Cummins part number 4918840, and adapter
kit, Cummins part number 4918892, or other Cummins Inc. approved cleaning machine. Refer to
the manufacturer’s instructions for the appropriate cleaning procedures.
9. Inspect all installation mounts and brackets for fatigue or cracks. Replace components as
required. Inspect the V-band clamps and mounting straps for signs of over-extension. The bands
must not be bent or damaged. Check T-bolts, nuts, and gaskets for damage. Replace damaged
parts as required, using certified replacement parts. Cummins recommends replacing the
gaskets at either end of the filter module at each cleaning interval to assure proper sealing.
Gaskets are available through your Gillig Parts representative and directly from Cummins
Emission Solutions.
10. Check that the filter module flanges and mating flanges are clean from debris. Clean as required.
Do not use a grinder to remove residual gasket material as this may

damage the flange and cause the connection to leak.
11. Orient the filter module so that the flow is in the same direction as when the filter was re-
moved.
12. Install a gasket on the catalyst gasket retainer ring and connect the filter module using a V-band
clamp. Apply thread lubricant to the V-band clamp threads and loosely tighten the V-band clamp
lock nut.
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Engine
13. Install a gasket on the outlet head gasket retainer ring and connect to the filter module using a V-
band clamp. Apply thread lubricant to the V-band clamp threads and loosely tighten the V-band
clamp.
The DPF outlet head may require rotation to properly align with the
vehicle piping or to orient the test port.
14. Reinstall the particulate filter in the vehicle mount and connect inlet and outlet pipes. Check all
brackets and fasteners connecting the DPF to the exhaust piping and body frame.
15. Connect exhaust gas temperature sensor electrical connector(s) to wire harness. Connect exhaust
gas pressure sensor tubes and torque to 150 in-lb.
16. Completely tighten the V-band clamps partially tightened in previous steps. Torque to 180 in-lb.
Do not over tighten.
17. If the aftertreatment diesel particulate filter was replaced for high soot loading or plugging, it will
be necessary to reset the stored soot load in the engine’s ECM. This can be performed by using
the Cummins INSITE™ electronic service tool to perform the Aftertreatment Maintenance reset
procedure under the ECM Diagnostic Test menu.
18. Start the engine and examine the clamps for leaks.
19. Run the engine under normal operating conditions for a period of 15 minutes and check the
Particulate Filter and Exhaust Temp indicator lamps (Figure 3-17) on the indicator lamp strip.
These indicator lamps display the back pressure and temperature status of the particulate filter.
The Particulate Filter lamp indicates an over-pressure condition has been detected. The Exhaust
Temp lamp indicates an over-temperature condition has been detected.
For the most up-to-date information on the particulate filter system, contact your Gillig Service repre-
sentative or Cummins Emission Solutions.
Cummins Emission Solutions
1900 McKinley Ave M/C 50115
Columbus IN 47201
(800) 223-4583, ask for Emission Solutions
www.cumminsfiltration.com
102
Engine
Particulate Filter Removal
The particulate filter, just like a conventional muffler, is vertically mounted in the upper left hand com-
partment above the engine. The tail pipe exhausts the gases from the upper left rear corner of the bus.
Remove the particulate filter as follows.
1. Open the muffler access door on the rear street side of the coach.
2. Remove the upper heat shield surrounding the CPF outlet piping.
3. Remove the V-band clamps that attach the diffuser piping to the top outlet and the exhaust pipe
to the bottom outlet of the particulate filter.
4. Disconnect the diffuser pipe and the exhaust pipe from the particulate filter.
5. Remove the bolts, nuts, and washers that attach the base of the particulate filter to the engine
compartment frame.
6. Remove the mounting bracket at the top of the particulate filter, which clamps the particulate
filter housing to the sidewall.
7. The particulate filter is heavy. Carefully remove it from the coach through the muffler access
door opening.
Particulate Filter Installation

1. Position the particulate filter inside the rear cap with the lower mounting brackets aligned with
the mounting bolt holes. Install the lower mounting bolts, nuts, and washers. Tighten the bolts to
27–33 ft-lb (35–45 Nm) torque.
2. Install the nuts on the mounting bracket and tighten them to 27–33 ft-lb
(35–45 Nm) torque.
3. Reinstall the upper heat shield.
4. Connect the exhaust pipe to the lower particulate filter inlet and loosely install the V-band clamp.
5. Install the diffuser pipe on the upper outlet of the particulate filter and install the V-band clamp.
Tighten both the exhaust pipe and tail pipe band clamps to 75 in-lb. Ensure that both pipes are
completely sealed by the clamps.
103
Engine
Diffuser Pipe Replacement
1. Remove the V-band clamp, then remove the diffuser pipe from the top outlet of the particulate
filter.
2. Replace the diffuser pipe by installing it on the top outlet opening of the particulate filter. Ensure
the pipe is completely sealed by the clamp.
Exhaust Pipe Replacement

1. Remove the V-band clamp that secures the exhaust elbow to the exhaust bellows.
2. To remove the elbow only, remove the clamp that attaches the elbow to the inlet of the particulate
filter and then remove the elbow.
3. Remove the V-band clamp that attaches the pipe to the turbocharger outlet.
4. Remove the exhaust pipe from the engine compartment.
5. Replace the elbow by installing the two V-band clamps and the elbow in position between
the particulate filter and exhaust bellows. Ensure that both pipes are completely sealed by the
clamps.
6. Replace the exhaust pipe by installing it between the elbow and turbocharger outlet adapter. Fol-
low the steps given in “Exhaust Clamp Installation” below. Ensure that both pipes are completely
sealed by the clamp.
104
Engine
Exhaust Clamp Installation
If your bus has aluminized steel band clamps installed, do not reuse
them. If you remove them, these clamps must be replaced with stainless
steel band clamps, available through your Gillig Parts representative.
To achieve a proper seal, make sure that the step on the V-groove
installation indicator matches the step on the exhaust clamp.
1. Refer to Figure 3-18. Position the band clamp over the smallest tube. The larger end of the clamp
must be on the overlapping tube or flex.
2. Locate the step of the clamp to the overlapping tube at the joint.
3. Using the V-groove as a visual guide, alternately tighten bolts until the V-groove installation
indicator is approximately half closed (60 ft-lb / 81 N-m torque maximum).
Before After
V-Groove
Installation
Indicator
Figure 3-18, Band Clamp
105
Engine
Flexible Exhaust Bellows
A flexible exhaust bellows (see Figure 3-19) absorbs vibration and thermal expansion that would other-
wise cause exhaust system components to shake off or break.
The exhaust bellows has a flow direction, and the bellows and exhaust pipes have male/female flanges to
ensure that the bellows is not installed backwards.
Female Flange
Fl
ow
D
ire
ct
io
n
Male Flange
Figure 3-19, Exhaust Bellows
106
Engine
Engine Removal & Installation
The engine and transmission are installed longitudinally, straight in from the rear of the coach. The
combined assembly is supported by cushion, or isolator, mountings attached to the chassis frame rails.
The transmission, or engine and transmission may be removed from the coach but the engine cannot be
removed by itself. The separate transmission removal instructions are in the Transmission chapter of this
manual.
There are three support points for the engine/transmission mounting combination: one on each side of
the rear of the engine and one at the front, just in front of the rear bumper. Note: The engine is mounted
with the “rear” (flywheel) end toward the front of the coach and the “front” (vibration damper) end
toward the rear of the coach.
All of the parts which are used to mount the engine to the chassis frame are illustrated and called out in
the parts manual. A Gillig engine/transmission dolly is available for use in power plant removal and in-
stallation. There are others available in the marketplace which are adaptable to a wide variety of engine/
transmission combinations.
Engine/Transmission Removal
The electrical, hydraulic, air, coolant, drive line, air conditioning, and other disconnect points are dis-
cussed in other chapters of this manual. Refer to those sections for specifics about the particular discon-
nects. Identify and tag each item as it is disconnected to aid in identification at installation time. Perform
the following steps to remove the engine/transmission:
1. It is not necessary to pump down the air conditioning system prior to removal of the power plant,
as that system is not connected to the engine. All that is required is to remove the lines that sup-
ply coolant to the passenger heater and the V-belts from the air conditioning compressor drive.
2. Place the battery disconnect switches, located in the battery box, in the “OFF” position. As a
further precaution, disconnect the ground cable from the battery terminal.
3. Block the coach chassis to prevent it from lowering onto the engine dolly when air is exhausted
from the suspension system.
4. Exhaust air from the system.
5. Drain the cooling system.
6. Disconnect the driveline.
7. Disconnect the transmission shift linkage.
8. Remove the each rear run box bracket from the engine compartment framing. Disconnect the
Weatherpak connector from the rear run box and remove the box from the engine compartment.
9. Disconnect the air intake hump hose at the turbocharger.
10. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the turbocharger adapter.
11. Disconnect the air compressor supply line and the governor air line.
12. Disconnect the hydraulic supply line from the hydraulic pump (located on the side of the trans-
mission).
13. Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines at the engine compartment bulkhead.
14. Disconnect the driver’s heating system coolant lines from the engine.
107
Engine
15. Disconnect the engine wiring harness connectors at the bulkhead connectors.
16. Disconnect the electrical lead from the alternator “DC” terminal.
17. Disconnect the electrical lead to the starter.
18. Disconnect the backup light switch and the neutral start leads at the transmission.
19. Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit lines at the manifold block near the transmission.
20. Remove the rear bumper and mounting brackets.
21. Remove the engine belt guard assembly.
22. Remove V-belts from the air conditioning compressor.
The power plant is now prepared for removal using a suitable dolly. If the Gillig supplied dolly is used,
follow the steps in the next section.
108
Engine
Engine Dolly
The engine dolly (Figure 3-20) is used to remove or install the engine/transmission. The dolly used for
this task must be capable of supporting the engine and transmission combination used on the coach. The
proper dolly can be ordered through the Gillig Corporation.
Operation Instructions
Do not use a dolly that is not designed for the specific engine installed
in the coach.
If using the Gillig engine dolly, the engine and transmission MUST be
removed as an assembly. It is not possible to remove either component
separately with the Gillig dolly without the high probability of sustaining
damage to the equipment or possible injury to personnel.
If the engine/transmission assembly is left on the dolly, the upper
platform must be lowered to its lowest position.
The following instructions are for the Gillig-supplied dolly. Refer to Figure 3-21.
1. Adjust the bell housing cradle

to center with the bell housing
cradle adjustment screws.
2. Lower the upper platform to its
lowest position by opening the
pump control valves.
3. Roll the engine dolly under the
engine.
4. Center the engine dolly under
the engine. Move the rear end of
dolly to the left or right by mov-
ing the caster handle to the left
or right as needed.
5. Raise the upper platform by
closing the pump control valve Figure 3-20, Engine Dolly
and pumping the pump handle.
6. Reposition the dolly so that
the two rear adjustment screws
are under the flange of the rear
engine support.
109
Engine
7. Adjust the bell housing cradle so that the bell housing cradle contacts the underside of the bell
housing.
8. Adjust the height of the rear adjustment screws as required and raise the upper platform until the
engine/transmission assembly is fully supported by the dolly.
9. Remove the bell housing bushing bolts and chassis mounted support brackets.
10. Remove the transmission tail support bushing bolt, if installed.
11. Remove the rear support angle from the chassis rails.
12. Remove the engine/transmission assembly by rolling the dolly toward the rear of the bus.
Rear Adjustment Screws

Bell Housing Cradle
20-100-188
Figure 3-21, Mating Dolly To Engine
110
Engine
Engine Mount Care and Installation
Inspect the engine mounting brackets and bushings for wear, damage, or deterioration and replace parts
as needed. The mounts used are center bonded mounts. The engine mounts are an extremely impor-
tant factor in the overall longevity and quietness of the coach. Worn engine mounts allow the engine to
vibrate and/or move beyond acceptable limits putting strains on electrical wiring and fluid lines. They
can also have a profound effect on engine vibration, especially at idle RPM’s. For this reason, the en-
gine mounts should be inspected at the intervals specified by the Preventive Maintenance chapter of this
manual.
Another factor in engine mount failure is the presence of oils and fuels that may leak around the engine
compartment. This not only creates a fire danger (see the Preventive Maintenance chapter for engine
steam cleaning intervals), but these fluids are also corrosive to the rubber engine mounts, causing them
to deteriorate to the point of disintegration.
Install engine mounts as follows:
1. Install mount with the two mounting slots onto the frame bracket. Install nut/bolt/washers
loosely.
2. Set engine bracket on top of mount and line up M20 or M16 bolt hole on top of mount with the
hole on the engine bracket.
3. Tighten all fasteners.
Use an M20 center bolt and 5/8" nuts and bolts to attach the rear mounts to the engine and the
frame. For the mounts under the crankshaft pulley, use an M16 center bolt and 1/2" nuts and
bolts, which attach to the engine crossmember that sits below the engine. Lubed-thread torque
values are as follows:
5/8-11..............113 lb-ft / 153 N-m
1/2-13..............56 lb-ft / 76 N-m
M16.................74-81 lb-ft / 100-110 N-m
M20.................111-125 lb-ft / 150-170 N-m
Figure 3-22, Engine Mount
111
Engine
Engine/Transmission Installation
If any of the components mounted on the power plant were removed for maintenance, refer to the ap-
propriate chapter of this manual for installation instruction. Install all components on the engine and
transmission package at this time.
1. Adjust the bell housing cradle to center.
2. Adjust the rear adjustment screws so that the engine/transmission assembly is level from left to
right and tipped down toward the front by 3.5 degrees.
3. Center the engine/transmission assembly between the chassis frame rails and roll the dolly for-
ward until the rear edge of the rear engine support is in line with the rear edge of the chassis rail.
4. Bolt the rear engine support to the engine mounting braces. Tighten the bolts to 110 - 125 ft-lb
(150 - 170 N-m). Move the engine dolly upper platform up or down as required.
5. Install the bell housing bushing bolts. Tighten the bolts to 110 - 125 ft-lb (150 - 170 N-m).
6. Install the transmission tail support if applicable.
7. Install the bushing bolt and tighten. Tighten the bolts to 110 - 125 ft-lb (150 - 170 N-m).
8. Lower the upper dolly platform and remove the dolly.
9. Tighten all  mounting bolts in  accordance with the Torque Chart in the Specifications Section of 
this manual.
10. Connect or install all items removed or disconnected in steps 6 through 22 in the power plant
removal procedure above.
11. Refill the cooling system as instructed in this chapter.
12. Attach the ground cable to the battery and put the battery cutoff switch into the “ON” position.
13. Start the engine and check for leaks at all connections.
112
Engine
Drive Belts
Proper care and maintenance of drive belts is an important part of good engine maintenance. Proper belt
tension and the condition of the pulley grooves are most important.
Since belts and pulleys wear with use, look at all frictional surface areas for signs of wear. Normal wear
can be recognized as even wear, both on the belt and the grooves of the pulley. It is the unusual signs of
wear that indicate a problem. When checking, remember that belt failures may have been caused by a
bad pulley, a misaligned drive, or by some other faulty mechanical component.
Troubleshooting Belt Problems

Base Cracking
BASE
CRACKING OK
(See Figure 3-23.) Excessive cross checking extending into the
rubber on the base of a belt that shows little or no side wear indi-
cates that the belt has been operated under incorrect tensioning, has
been slipping, or is worn out due to excess use. In any case, the belt
must be replaced and re-tensioned. This does not indicate any defect
caused during manufacturing.
Belts may fail after three (3) or four (4) seasons of use due to fatigue.
20-100-x150
Small cracks in the cover material of a belt are not an indication of Figure 3-23, Base Cracking
belt failure. However, if the base of the belt also shows cross check-
ing, the belt has been exposed to weather to the extent that the inner
fabric is beginning to rot and should be replaced.
Fabric Rupture
(See Figure 3-24.) A fabric rupture can be caused by operating a belt
over a badly worn pulley; by too much tension, which forces the belt
down into the groove; or by foreign objects falling into the pulley
groove. OK FABRIC RUPTURE
20-100-x147
Cover Tear Figure 3-24, Fabric Rupture

(See Figure 3-25.) A tear in the cover of a belt is normally a result
of the belt accidentally coming into contact with some part of the
OK
COVER
coach. It is no fault of the belt or its construction. Cover tears are TEAR
usually caused by belts running too loosely, which allows them to

be “thrown out” centrifugally and rub on other components of the
vehicle. Proper belt tension will prevent this failure.
A slight raveling of the belt covering at the splice

20-100-x151
Figure 3-25, Cover Tear

location does not indicate imminent belt failure.
Simply cut off the loose raveling.
113
Engine
OK SLIP BURN
Slip Burn
(See Figure 3-26.) Slip burn is caused by operating the belt too loosely,
which causes it to slip under load. Maintaining proper belt tension will
prevent this type of failure.
20-100-x148
Figure 3-26, Slip Burn
Gouged Edge
GOUGED
EDGE OK
(See Figure 3-27.) A gouged edge in a belt can be caused by a dam-
aged pulley or from interference with some part of the coach. Check
the condition of the pulleys. Make sure the belt does not rub on any
part of the vehicle while in operation.
Figure 3-27, Gouged Edge

20-100-x145
Worn Sides
(See Figure 3-28.) Badly worn belt sides result from long operation
WORN
SIDES OK
without enough tension. The sides will be worn and slightly burned
around the entire circumference. Check for proper belt tension and pul-
ley alignment.
20-100-x143
Figure 3-28, Worn Sides
Excessive Stretch
A belt that stretches excessively is one that stretches beyond the adjustment provided to take up normal
belt stretch.
114
Engine
Lumpy Belts
LUMPY
BELTS OK
(See Figure 3-29.) Lumpy belts usually occur, and are more noticeable,
on variable speed drives and other high speed belt installations. The
result is excessive vibration. If belts are not relieved of tension while
the vehicle is stored, there will often be temporary vibration on start-
up after the storage period. Give the belts time to straighten out before
diagnosing lumpy belts.
20-100-x149
Figure 3-29, Lumpy Belts
Internal Cord Failure

(See Figure 3-30.) Failure of one or more of the internal tension
cords will result in the belt rolling out of the pulley groove. Cords
may be broken by prying the belt over the pulley instead of prop-
erly loosening the tension adjustment.
OK INTERNAL
CORD FAILURE
20-100-x144
Figure 3-30, Internal Cord Failure
Improper Length
It is possible that an improper length belt could accidentally be installed on an engine. Always check to
be certain that the belt length is correct prior to installation.
115
Engine
Belt Replacement Tips
1. Never replace just one belt on a two groove single pulley set up. Never install only one belt from
a matched set: always install the complete set.
 2. Always check the condition of the pulleys before replacing belts. Inspect the pulleys for chips,
cracks, bent sidewalls, rust, corrosion, or other wear factors. Replace any pulleys found to be
damaged or defective.
 3. Misaligned pulleys result in shortened belt life.
 4. Check the alignment between pulleys as follows:
a. Position a straight edge or cord line to touch both pulleys at all points. The shafts must be
parallel.
b. Rotate each pulley a half revolution and note whether the contact of either pulley with the
straight edge or cord line is disturbed. If so, this indicates a bent shaft or warped pulley.
 5. Move the belt tension adjustment to the position where it provides the most slack. In some cases
it maybe necessary to remove the accessory to install the belt.
 6. Place belts in the pulley grooves by hand.
To carry their full loads, belts must grip the entire area of contact with the pulley. When operated too
loosely belts can slip, heat, burn, grab, or snap. Many more belts fail from under tightening than from
over tightening. When operated too tightly, belts can damage the engine by causing side loading on the
crankshaft, crankshaft bearings, and accessory bearings. Excess tension also stretches and weakens belts.
Never pry or force a belt onto the pulley with a screwdriver, crowbar,
wedge, etc. Both belt and drive may be damaged by such abuse.Belt
Replacement Procedures
Keep fingers clear of drive belts when the engine is operating. Before
adjusting belt tension or installing a new belt, attach a “Do Not Operate”
tag to the engine start switches and controls in the driver’s area. Place
the engine power switch on the Rear Run Box in the “ENGINE OFF”
position.
Alternator and Water Pump Drive Belts

The belt tensioner on the engine automatically maintains the proper tension. Belt tension cannot be ad-
justed. The belt tensioner is designed to operate within the limit of arm movement provided by the cast
stops when the belt length and geometry are correct. If the tensioner is hitting either of the limits during
operation, check the mounting brackets and the belt length. Loose brackets, bracket failure, alternator
movement, incorrect belt length or belt failure can cause the tensioner to hit the limits.
116
Engine
Replacement
1. Insert a 3/8" breaker bar into the space provided on the tensioner
(see Figure 3-31).
2. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise until it stops.
3. Remove the alternator belt while holding the tensioner back.
The belt tensioner is spring loaded and must be

pivoted away from the belt. Pivoting toward the belt
can damage the belt tensioner.
4. Install a new belt over the pulleys while holding the tensioner Figure 3-31, Belt Tensioner
back. Be careful not to damage the belt while working it over
the flanged pulleys.
5. Release the tensioner and remove the breaker bar.
A.C. Compressor Belt

Adjust the A.C. compressor belt to between 200–300 lb. The optimum setting for installing a new belt is
close to 300 lb. After installing a new belt, run the engine for a few minutes. The belt will loosen and the
tension should fall within the 200-300 lb range. Recheck belt tension after 10 hours of service.
Adjusting belt tension too tightly causes excessive wear on the Freon
compressor bearings. Adjusting belt tension too loosely allows belt
slippage.
Adjusting the Belt

1. Loosen the adjusting nuts on the compressor bracket to allow movement of the compressor.
2. Move the compressor to the left or right to tighten or loosen belt tension.
3. Measure belt tension with a belt tension gauge.
4. When the proper tension is attained, tighten the adjusting nuts on the compressor.
117
Engine
Engine Diagnostics
The Cummins Engine Control System will display and record engine faults, which will be shown as
fault codes. The fault codes are recorded in the ECM and can be read at the CHECK ENGINE and
STOP ENGINE lamps on the drivers indicator lamp strip. The following is a brief description. Refer to
the Cummins Troubleshooting and Repair Manual for fault codes and more details. More complete di-
agnostic information may be obtained by interfacing with the ECM via a laptop computer and software
available from Cummins.
To check for active engine electronic system fault codes:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Move the ENGINE TEST switch to the TEST position (Figure 3-32).
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
4. If no active fault codes are recorded, both the CHECK ENGINE and the STOP ENGINE lamps
will come on and stay on.
5. If active fault codes are recorded, both the CHECK ENGINE and the STOP ENGINE lamps will
come on momentarily, then will begin to flash the code of the recorded faults.
6. The fault code will flash in the following sequence:
a. A yellow CHECK ENGINE lamp will flash.
b. A short one or two second pause will occur.
c. The fault code will flash on the red STOP ENGINE lamp.
d. A short one or two second pause will occur between each number.
e. When the number has finished flashing on the STOP ENGINE lamp, a yellow CHECK EN-
GINE lamp will appear again. The three digit code will repeat in the same sequence.
When not using the fault codes, turn off the ENGINE TEST switch. If the switch is left on, the ECM
will not log some fault codes.
ENG
TES INE
T
30-100-211
Figure 3-32, Engine Test Switch
118
Engine
Chapter 4– Transmission/
Driveline/Rear Axle
Transmission
The coach is equipped with a Voith 864.5 transmission (Figure 4-1). This transmission has four speeds, a
differential torque converter that provides retardation, and is electronically controlled.
This chapter presents basic description and application information. Refer to the Voith service manuals
provided with the coach for detailed service and troubleshooting procedures.
Observe the following precautions to prevent transmission damage.

• The engine cannot be started by pushing or towing. Propeller shaft
rotation will not drive the pump within the transmission that produces
clutch pressure and lubrication.
• Before towing the coach, remove the drive shaft or remove the axle
shafts and cover the hub openings to prevent loss of lubricant and entry
of dust and dirt as explained in the General Information chapter.
• When replacing any component or attachment on the transmission or
driveline, use only replacement parts of the same or equivalent quality.
Using parts of lesser quality can result in damage to the transmission
and/or driveline while in operation.
• Do not allow the coach to coast in neutral. Coasting in neutral can
result in severe transmission damage and eliminates engine braking
action.
• Strictly observe all transmission maintenance schedule requirements
provided in this manual and the Voith service manuals.
Location and Mounting

The transmission is bolted to the engine bell housing and supported by the engine assembly. Refer to the
Parts Manual for an illustration and parts breakdown of the transmission and mounting components.
Because the transmission is supported by the engine, the transmission must be removed whenever the
engine is removed. The transmission, however, may be removed without removing the engine.
Reference Materials
Refer to the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) manuals as a primary source of information for
servicing and maintenance of the transmission.
119
Transmission/Driveline/Rear Axle
Figure 4-1, Voith Transmission
Operation
Electronic Control Unit

The transmission contains an Electronic Control Unit (ECU) that controls the complete operation of the
transmission, including upshifts, downshifts, and clutch lockup functions. The ECU also has a diagnostic
feature for fault tracing. The ECU is located in the rear electrical panel (see illustration in “Rear Enclo-
sure Electrical Panel” in the Electrical System chapter). Refer to the Voith manuals provided with your
coach for details.
Gear Selection
Transmission gear selection is accomplished through the shifter control located in the driver console at
the driver’s left. The control is a pushbutton pad with the gear range noted. Figure 4-2 shows the gear
selector layout.
Do not allow the coach to coast in neutral. Doing so can result in severe
transmission damage and eliminates the engine braking action.
The transmission automatically shifts to neutral when the engine is shut down. Therefore, whenever
starting the engine, the transmission is already in the neutral gear and can be started. When shifting from
a forward gear to reverse or vice-versa, neutral must be selected first. However, the vehicle must come to
a complete stop before shifting.
120
Parking the Coach
There is no Park (P) range in the shift selector. Therefore, apply the
parking brake before parking the coach and stopping the engine. Always
place the shift selector in Neutral (N) and apply the parking brake before
leaving the driver’s seat so that the coach will not move if the throttle
treadle is accidentally activated or the coach is on a grade. Always place
the selector in Neutral (N) before stopping the engine, then apply the
parking brake to prevent the coach from moving while shut down. If the
driver shuts the bus down with the D button pressed, the transmission
will not go into gear until the engine is restarted, the N button is cycled,
and the D button is once again pressed.
Transmission Lockout (Optional)

This keyed switch may be used to leave the bus unattended with the
engine running, without the risk of it being driven away. Set the parking
brake, shift the transmission into Neutral, and press the foot brake. Now
you can rotate the key counterclockwise (CCW) and then remove the
key. (The key will not rotate until all of the above conditions have been
met.) Once the key is removed, the transmission cannot be shifted out of
Neutral. When you return to the bus, insert the key and turn the switch
clockwise (CW) to enable shifting. Never leave the bus without first
setting the parking brake.
Figure 4-2, Voith Shifter
Retarder
The transmission uses a differential torque converter that also acts as a hydrodynamic brake (retarder)
when the brakes are applied. During retardation, the turbine blade forces oil across fixed impellers which
direct oil onto the stationary pump wheel. This produces a controlled hydraulic pressure which in turn
provides the desired braking force. Refer to the Voith Technical Manual for a detailed description of the
transmission operation.
Differential Torque Converter

The differential torque converter provides a mechanical and a hydraulic split drive path. Upon shifting
into second gear, the convertor pump brake is applied to provide a direct drive through the mechanical
side of the split drive path from the engine to the transmission gearing. This eliminates torque convertor
slippage and provides maximum fuel economy.
121
Transmission Fluid
Transmission fluid requirements change periodically. In order to

maintain your transmission warranty, it is the responsibility of service
personnel to keep abreast of changes in fluid requirements by the
transmission manufacturer. Consult the very latest “Approved Oils and
Change Intervals” service bulletin, available from your Voith service
representative and from the Voith Web site, www.usa.voithturbo.com,
to avoid invalidating your transmission warranty! Providing the proper
type and amount of transmission fluid is a critical aspect of transmission
maintenance and must receive close attention.
Transmission fluid is an integral part of the unit and serves multiple purposes in the transmission.
The fluid transmits the driving force from the engine through the torque converter. It also provides
lubrication and cooling throughout the transmission and operates the hydraulically applied clutches and
retarder.
Upgrading Transmission Fluid

If the transmission fluid specification is upgraded, replace old fluid with upgraded fluid following the
procedures outlined below.
Do not perform these steps before reading and understanding the

procedures in the “Fluid and Filter Change” and “Hot Level Fluid
Check” sections ahead. Take note of all Warnings, Cautions, and
Notices.
1. Drain fluid from the sump. See “Fluid and Filter Change” for instructions.
2. Fill the transmission with the new upgraded fluid.
3. Run the coach for 15 minutes and drain.
4. Refill the transmission with the new upgraded fluid.
122
Fluid Level and Appearance
It is important to know the correct appearance of the fluid. Many times a transmission malfunction or
transmission fluid contamination can be traced to an incorrect fluid level or an improper reading of the
dipstick. A fluid level which is too high or too low can cause overheating and clutch plate damage. Over-
heating can also be caused by excessive clutch plate slippage which can result from improperly installed
plates or the manner in which the vehicle is operated.
Overheated transmission fluid may be dark in color and have a strong copper odor. If the oil shows
traces of contamination or effects of high temperatures, change the oil and filter regardless of miles or
hours of operation. When the dipstick is removed, the fluid on it should be checked for air bubbles. Air
bubbles in the fluid is an indication of an air leak in the internal suction lines. Air leaks can cause erratic
transmission operation and clutch slippage.
Fluid Contamination
Transmission fluid analysis is recommended on a scheduled basis. It is also advisable to perform fluid
analysis tests periodically on fluid purchased in bulk to ensure quality.
• Engine Coolant: Engine coolant in the fluid imparts a milky gray or pink cast to the fluid and
can cause spewing of fluid from the transmission breather. Coolant in the fluid, whether water or
antifreeze, can damage nylon parts or clutch plates in the transmission. The most common cause
of contamination is a leaking transmission heat exchanger core inside the transmission fluid cooler.
After finding and fixing the leak, disassemble and clean the transmission and replace the clutch
plates.
Glycol test kits can be used to detect antifreeze in the transmission fluid. While generally reliable,
certain kits may produce positive test results because of additives used in some transmission fluids.
Follow the kit manufacturer’s instructions closely.
Coolant water can also be contaminated by engine oil. Be sure to locate the correct source of cool-
ant water contamination.
• Dirt or water: At each fluid change interval, examine the drained fluid for evidence of dirt or
water. A minimal amount of condensation in the fluid is normal. If there is evidence of water in the
fluid, check the transmission fluid cooler for leakage between the water and oil circuits. Inspect
and pressure test the cooler to confirm the leak. Leaking coolers should be replaced. Any accumu-
lation of sludge or soft dirt in the sump must be removed.
• Metal particles: Metal particles in the fluid (after the pan has been cleaned for the first time)
indicate damage has occurred within the transmission. Metal contamination will require disas-
sembly of the transmission, close inspection to determine the source, and cleaning of all internal
and external fluid circuits where the particles could lodge. If excessive metal contamination has
occurred, replace the transmission fluid cooler and all bearings in the transmission. Note that some
metal particles in the sump pan are normal as the transmission wears, however, excessive metal in
the sump pan may indicate a potentially serious transmission problem.
• Aeration: Aeration changes the viscosity and color of the fluid to a thin milky liquid. Aerated fluid
drawn in by the input pump and directed to the clutches and converter causes converter cavitation
noises and irregular shifting. The primary causes of aeration are improper fluid, a low fluid level in
123
the sump, or too much fluid in the sump. Aeration can also be caused by defective or missing seal
rings on transmission oil filters or a damaged or missing seal ring on the transmission oil intake
pipe of the internal suction screen in the oil pan.
Probalyzer Sampling System

The optional Probalyzer™ brass mini-gauge sampling valve allows for easy transmission fluid sampling
without shutting down the unit.
Sampling with the Probalyzer plug requires the compatible Probalyzer I cap, which screws onto standard
4-ounce sample bottles, or the Probalyzer II Bottle, which is a self-contained sampling bottle.
Probalyzer mini-gauge plugs carry a lifetime guarantee. Consult your Gillig Service representative for
more information, or call Titan Laboratories at (800) 848-4826. Titan Laboratories also offers analysis
services. Dust cap replacements are all available through your Gillig Parts representative.
Checking Transmission Fluid Level
Do not allow dirt or foreign matter to enter the filler tube when checking
fluid level or adding fluid to the transmission. Before removing the
dipstick, clean around the end of the filler tube.
Perform a cold and hot check daily to ensure that the proper level is maintained. Carefully follow the
procedures in the “Cold Level Fluid Check” and “Hot Level Fluid Check” sections which follow before
checking the fluid level of the transmission. Always check the fluid level at least twice for each cold and
hot check to ensure that an accurate dipstick reading is obtained. If inconsistent readings occur, check
for proper venting of the transmission breather.
High or low fluid levels can result in poor performance and irregular fluid temperatures. A high fluid lev-
el will cause the planetary gear units and clutches to be partially immersed in the sump fluid. Rotation of
the clutches and gears inside the transmission churn the fluid causing it to become aerated. The aerated
fluid will cause overheating and irregular shift patterns. A low fluid level results in an insufficient supply
of fluid to the converter and clutches, which can cause overheating and potential transmission damage.
Transmission input speed and fluid temperature affect the fluid level. An increase in input speed lowers
the fluid level; an increase in fluid temperature raises the fluid level. The fluid level should be checked
with the engine at idle and the transmission in neutral. A cold fluid level check should be taken to ensure
there is enough fluid in the transmission to operate the vehicle until normal operating temperature is
reached. A hot (normal) check should be taken when the transmission fluid reaches a normal operating
sump temperature to ensure the fluid is at the proper operating level. When checking hot and cold fluid
levels observe the hot run and cold run sections of the dipstick respectively.
Hot Check: Transmission fluid temperature should be higher than 140°F (60°C).
124
The low fluid level sensor is a precautionary system intended only to
prevent serious damage to the transmission in the event of an undetected
drop in the fluid level. It is not intended to replace the manual fluid level
check procedure.
Cold Fluid Level Check

Perform a cold check to determine if the transmission has enough fluid to be operated safely until a hot
check can be made.
The fluid level rises as its temperature increases. DO NOT fill above
the Cold Run band if the transmission fluid is below normal operation
temperatures.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Apply the parking brake and block the wheels.
2. Run the engine for at least one minute.
3. Shift to D (Drive) and operate the engine for 5–10 seconds at idle.
4. Shift to R (Reverse) and operate the engine for 5–10 seconds at idle.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 twice.
6. Shift to N (Neutral) and allow the engine to idle (500–800 RPM) for one minute.
7. With the engine still running, remove the dipstick from the tube and wipe clean.
8. Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove. Check the fluid level reading. If below the minimum
mark on the “COLD RUN” band, add fluid .
9. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.
10. If the fluid level is within the “COLD RUN” band, the transmission may be operated until the
fluid is hot enough to perform a “HOT RUN” check. If the fluid level is not within the “COLD
RUN” band, add or drain fluid to bring it to the middle of the “COLD RUN” band.
11. Perform a hot check after the normal (“Hot”) operating temperature is reached.
125
Hot Fluid Level Check
Transmission fluid is extremely hot at normal operating temperatures.

When checking, exercise caution to avoid burns to personnel.
1. Operate the transmission in D (Drive) range until normal operating temperature is reached.
2. Park the vehicle on a level surface and shift to N (Neutral). Apply the parking brake and chock
the wheels. Allow the engine to idle (500–800 RPM).
3. With the engine running, remove the dipstick from the tube and wipe clean.
4. Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove. Check fluid level reading. Safe operating level is
within the “HOT RUN” band on the dipstick. If the fluid level registers on or below the bottom
of the “HOT RUN” band, add fluid to bring the level up to the upper limit mark on the dipstick.
5. Repeat the check procedure to verify the reading.
Fluid and Filter Change Intervals

The transmission fluid and filter should be changed at intervals indicated in the Preventive Maintenance
chapter. Extreme operating conditions demand shorter change intervals. The transmission oil filter
mounts in the transmission oil sump and there are no other external filters.
If there is evidence of engine coolant in the transmission fluid system, the

transmission must be disassembled, inspected, and cleaned. All traces of
coolant and varnish deposits resulting from coolant contamination must
be removed and the lined transmission clutch plates must be replaced.
126
Fluid and Filter Change
1. Operate the transmission until the fluid is at the normal operating temperature (140°F). Hot fluid
flows more quickly and drains more completely.
2. Shift the transmission to Neutral (N), apply the brake, and stop the engine.
Transmission fluid is hot! Take precautions to prevent being scalded.

3. Remove the drain plug (4) in the oil pan (12 mm Allen wrench) and drain the oil.
4. Remove the drain plug (2) from the converter and drain the oil. The plug is accessible through
the oil pan drain hole. Examine the fluid for contamination. A normal amount of condensation
will appear in the fluid during operation.
5. Install drain plugs with new copper seals (1+3). Tighten drain plug (2) to 37 ft-lb (50 N-m) and
drain plug (4) to 73 ft-lb (100 N-m).
6. Unscrew and remove the filter cover (7). 1
7. Replace oil filter element (5) and sealing ring (6). 2
If the used filter element is very

dirty, remove the oil pan and
check the clutches.
8. Install cover (7) with oil filter element (5)
and sealing ring (6) and tighten to 18 ft-lb
(25 N-m). 5
9. Refill the transmission through the dip-

3
stick fill tube. 4
6
Quantity: 26-29 qts. (25-28 liters) dry fill
22–24 qt. (21–23 L) refill
7
Figure 4-3, Transmission Drain Plugs

Use only Voith approved oils, see
Voith DIWA Service Bulletin (DSB) 118.
7. Check the oil level, and check the filter cover (7) for leaks Follow the proper transmission fluid
check procedures as described in the previous “Transmission Fluid Condition” sections.
127
Exterior Inspection and Cleaning
Clean and inspect the exterior of the transmission at regular intervals. The severity of service and op-
erating conditions will determine the frequency of such inspections. Inspect the transmission for loose
bolts, fluid leaks, loose electrical connections, worn or damaged shift linkage, and damaged or loose
fluid lines. Fluid leaks require immediate attention. Check the transmission fluid level daily. For other
transmission checks refer to the “Coach Maintenance Schedule” section in the Preventive Maintenance
Chapter of this manual.
Transmission Breather Maintenance

When performing transmission exterior inspection and cleaning as described above, make sure the
breather on the transmission is clear of dirt and dust. The breather prevents pressure buildup within the
transmission and is located at the top of the transmission housing. Clean the breather and the area around
the breather at scheduled maintenance periods.
Transmission Fluid Cooler

The transmission depends on an integral cooler (also known as a heat exchanger) to maintain a safe,
operational transmission fluid temperature. Piping is installed to route engine coolant through the trans-
mission cooler. As the transmission fluid passes through the cooler, its heat is transferred to the engine
coolant.
The transmission cooler is located on the output end of the transmission, below the U-joint.
Transmission Fluid Cooler Inspection and Maintenance

The hoses and piping should be checked regularly at the interval specified in the Preventive Maintenance
chapter of this manual to ensure there is no chafing, deterioration, leaking, or wear. Damaged or worn
parts should be replaced immediately. Loose connections should be tightened. If replacement of parts
is required, ensure that the correct replacement parts are used: either genuine OEM parts from Gillig or
approved equivalent items.
The transmission fluid cooler is a sealed unit which is not subject to rebuilding or repair service. If there
is a leak or other service requirement, the unit must be replaced with a new or re-manufactured unit.
128
Transmission Replacement
Removal
The transmission is removed as a unit from beneath the coach. A transmission stand or dolly will be re-
quired to support the transmission while it is being removed. Because the transmission must be removed
from beneath the coach, either a pit or hoist will be required to obtain the clearance needed to pass the
unit under the body skirts.
Maximum safety precautions must be taken to secure the coach while it

is raised on jacks or a hoist. If jacks are used, block the chassis securely
at the frame rails ahead of the rear axle and suspension. If a hoist is used,
ensure that the coach is secured and cannot roll or move while raised.
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
2. Raise the coach to a convenient working height.
3. Block and secure the coach as necessary for maximum personnel and equipment safety.
4. Drain the transmission fluid into a suitable catch pan. To drain the transmission:
a. Drain the oil from the sump following the procedures in the “Fluid and Filter Change” sec-
tions earlier in this chapter.
b. Remove the transmission dipstick tube.
c. Plug all openings to prevent dirt from entering the hydraulic system.
d. Drain coolant from the transmission cooler and disconnect the coolant hoses.
e. Remove the hoses from the coach if they interfere with transmission removal. In some cases,
the transmission’s heat exchanger must be removed to allow clearance for removal of the unit
from the vehicle.
Take precautions to avoid being scalded by transmission fluid and coolant

remaining in the heat exchanger. Catch the fluid in a container.
f. Plug all openings to keep dirt from entering the cooling system.
5. Lower the rear axle to the limit of the shock absorber travel (about four inches) to increase clear-
ance between the forward end of the transmission and the rear suspension.
6. Remove the drive shaft and disconnect the main transmission harness. Tag all components or
lines when disconnecting to assist in correct installation.
7. Position a portable transmission stand under the transmission and secure the transmission to the
stand.
8. Remove the capscrews that attach the transmission to the engine bell housing.
129
9. Carefully pull forward until the transmission stub shaft is clear, lower the transmission, and re-
move it from beneath the coach.
Inspection
1. Inspect the engine output shaft for wear, damage, or burrs that could affect ease of installation.
2. Inspect the engine to transmission mounting flange (bell housing flange) for raised metal, burrs,
or gasket residue. Inspect the threaded holes for damage. Clean damaged or dirty holes with the
proper tap as necessary.
3. Check the mounting surface of the engine flywheel for raised metal, burrs, or gasket residue.
Remove any defects to ensure that the transmission will seat properly when reinstalled.
4. Check all fluid connection openings for cleanliness and remove any obstructions.
130
Installation
Maximum safety precautions must be taken to secure the coach while it

is raised on jacks or a hoist. If jacks are used, block the chassis securely
at the frame rails ahead of the rear axle and suspension. If a hoist is used,
ensure that the coach is secured and cannot roll or move while raised.
The transmission must be firmly supported until it is securely bolted to

the engine. DO NOT permit the weight of the transmission to hang on
the stub shaft.
1. Install the plumbing fittings to the transmission before installing the transmission.
2. Position the transmission with the forward end toward the right side of the coach and roll the unit
under the coach.
3. Raise the transmission until it is in line with the output shaft of the engine. Rotate the transmis-
sion to the left on a horizontal axis (counterclockwise) and then move it back toward the engine.
4. Install the capscrews attaching the transmission to the engine bell housing. Tighten the capscrews
to 38 ft-lb (52 N-m) torque.
5. Install the driveline. See the “Driveline Installation” section below.
6. Install the transmission dipstick tube, all hydraulic and electrical lines, and any coolant piping
lines removed during the removal procedure above.
7. Torque all bolts in accordance with the torque specifications in OEM materials.
8. Check all hydraulic and electrical connections for tightness and correct installation, based on the
tags attached during removal.
9. Remove all supports, lower the coach, and fill the transmission with the correct fluid in accor-
dance with manufacturers instructions.
131
Post-Installation Procedures
1. After an overhaul or rebuild, the transmission fluid system, including all external plumbing and
components, must be refilled with new fluid. Because the initial running after the overhaul will
cause a rapid draw down of fluid as the filters, cooler, and lines are filling, check the fluid level
several times during the first few minutes the engine is running. Add fluid to maintain the level
within the “Cold Run” band of the dipstick.
2. Refill the cooling system as explained in “Refilling the Cooling System” in the Engine Chapter
of this manual.
3. Perform the “Operating Pressure Check” and “Converter Pressure Check at Measuring Point” as
described in the Voith “Repair Manual” which accompanies this manual.
4. Operate the coach and check the transmission operation in all ranges for proper upshifts, down-
shifts, and reverse ranges.
Stall Testing
Stalling the Voith transmission for more than 15 seconds will cause
damage to the transmission and will limit warranties.
A “stall test” can be used to provide a rough indication of the engine and transmission condition. This
test is done with the bus stationary, the transmission in drive, and the engine accelerated to full governed
speed. The time required to reach full engine speed is an indication of the engine and transmission con-
dition. “Stall testing” is accomplished by applying the service brake hard enough to keep the bus from
moving while bringing the engine to full RPM’s. Note that stall testing can cause damage to the Voith
transmission’s input clutch components as well as to the torque converter components.
Proper measuring and testing of the stall speed on the Voith transmission should be handled in the fol-
lowing manner:
1. Check transmission fluid level.
2. Apply the parking brake. Wheel chocks should also be used.
3. The engine and transmission must be at operating temperature. The transmission fluid tempera-
ture must be at least 140°F (60°C).
4. Put the transmission in Drive.
5. Depress the accelerator pedal fully and let engine run to full speed for a maximum of 15 seconds.
Good engine run-up times are between 3 and 5 seconds. A run-up time of more than 10 seconds is a sign
of poor engine performance. Contact the engine manufacturer if this is the case.
Stall testing should never be used as a means to increase the transmission/engine temperature. Do-
ing so will lead to component damage.
132
Driveline
Drive Shaft
The drive shaft (Figure 4-4) consists of a steel tube with universal joints at each end that transmits power
from the transmission output shaft to the differential input shaft (pinion shaft). A slip joint permits the
drive shaft to extend and retract in length as the differential assembly moves up and down with the
suspension system. The slip joint spline is lubricated through a fitting which requires periodic greasing.
An oil seal protects the slip joint from dust, dirt and other harmful debris. The drive shaft is a balanced
unit and must be kept completely free of undercoating and other foreign material that could upset shaft
balance.
BEARING CUP
DIFFERENTIAL
SHAFT YOKE YOKE
SLIP TUBE
SHAFT
BEARING STRAP
GREASE PLUG
U-JOINT DUST SEAL

CROSS
SLIP YOKE
TRANSMISSION
YOKE
BEARING CAP
TRUNNION
ON
SI
IS
SM
AN
TR
Figure 4-4, Drive Shaft and U-joints
133
Universal Joint
Universal Joints (U-joints) are located at each end of the drive shaft and allow the drive shaft to rotate
while at an angle. The simple universal joint is basically two U-shaped yokes connected by a cross mem-
ber called a spider. The spider is shaped like an X and the arms that extend from it are called trunnions.
The spider allows the yokes to rotate while at an angle to each other. The U-joints contain bearings that
must be lubricated periodically.
Maintenance
Follow the “Maintenance Schedule” in the Preventive Maintenance chapter of this manual for periodic
lubrication and inspection of the driveline assembly.
1. Inspect the pinion yoke and transmission yoke to ensure the bolts are tight.
2. Attempt to move the yoke up and down by hand to ensure the needle bearings are not worn to the
extent that play is observed.
3. Inspect the assembly to observe any wear, torsion cracks, or twisting damage to any component
of the drive line. Ensure that periodic lubrication is performed and that all moving parts can
move freely without binding.
Locking tabs should not be reused. Replace used locking tabs with
new ones.
4. Ensure the locking tabs on the bearing straps are bent over to secure the capscrews that attach the
bearing straps to the yokes.
Drive Shaft Removal

Refer to Figure 4-4.
1. Park the coach on level ground and block the wheels to prevent movement of the coach.
2. Disconnect the ground cable from the batteries.
The drive shaft is heavy. Support it securely as the capscrews

are removed.
3. Bend the lock tabs away from the capscrews on the two bearing straps on the yoke attached to
the differential.
To prevent damage to the bearings during removal, DO NOT let the

bearings drop on the floor.
134
4. Remove the cap screws and the bearing straps. Pull the drive shaft away from the yoke being
careful to keep the bearing caps on the spider. Use caution to ensure the needle bearings inside
the caps are not disturbed and do not fall out of the caps. If the needle bearings fall out, they
must be cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled in the cap.
5. Repeat the above procedure for the transmission end U-joint and remove the drive shaft from the
coach.
Drive Shaft Installation

1. Ensure the bearing straps, capscrews, and locking tabs are all available for installation and that
the bearing caps are secure on the spider.
2. Position the drive shaft within the drive shaft guard as appropriate and push the bearing caps into
the yoke.
3. Install the bearing straps, locking tabs, lock washers, and cap screws and tighten the capscrews
(3/8-24) to 38–48 lb ft (52–65 N-m) torque for full-round yokes and (1/2-20) 115–135 lb ft
(156–183 N-m) for half-round yokes.
4. Bend up the two tabs at each capscrew to hold the capscrews securely in place.
5. Grease the drive shaft at the three (or five) fittings with suitable chassis grease. Ensure that fresh
grease is forced from the bearing caps.
6. Reconnect the ground cable to the battery and unblock the coach.
Remove the Drive Shaft U-Joint

When a U-joint is worn or damaged, the whole U-joint is usually replaced as a unit. This procedure
can be accomplished without completely removing the drive shaft from the coach. Be sure that genuine
replacement parts are used, or that an equivalent part meets or exceeds the specification of the original
equipment.
1. Park the coach on level ground and block the wheels to prevent movement of the coach.
2. Disconnect the ground cable from the batteries.
3. Place alignment marks (if they are not already there) on both halves of the drive shaft at the slip
joint to assure proper balance when reassembling.
To prevent personal injury or damage to the drive shaft, be sure to

support the free end of the drive shaft so it does not drop down.
4. Bend the lock tabs that secure the capscrews at the U-joint bearing straps and remove the cap-
screws and bearing straps.
5. Pull the U-joint clear of the yoke being careful to keep the bearing caps in place.
6. Slide the U-joint from the drive shaft allowing the drive shaft to separate at the slip joint.
7. If U-joint is to be repaired by the user, consult the manufacture for instructions.
135
Replace The Drive Shaft U-joint
1. Mate the slip joint of the new (or repaired) U-joint to the drive shaft slip joint making sure that
the alignment marks match.
2. Push the U-joint into position in the yoke.
3. Install the bearing straps, locking tabs, lock washers, and capscrews. Tighten the capscrews
(3/8‑24) to 38–48 lb ft (52–65 N-m) torque for full-round yokes and (1/2-20) 115–135 lb ft
(156–183 N-m) for half-round yokes.
4. Liberally grease the new U-joint until grease is forced from all four bearing caps.
5. Connect the ground cable to the battery.
6. Unblock the coach.
136
Drive Axle
The full floating rear axle has a one piece housing with welded bowl. Power is transmitted from the
transmission output shaft, through a propeller shaft to the drive pinion gear and differential assembly, to
the axle shafts and thence to the rear wheels. The differential and drive pinion bearings and gear tooth
contact are adjustable. For the most up-to-date information, always refer to Meritor’s Maintenance
Manual 23A and Single Reduction Differential Carriers, Maintenance Manual 5 (both supplied with the
bus—see Manual 5A for 29' buses).
Maintenance
The maintenance and lubrication operations described herein should be performed according the sched-
ule in the Preventive Maintenance chapter of this manual. Examine the pinion oil seal, axle shaft flange,
and carrier-to-housing gaskets for evidence of lubricant leakage. Tighten the bolts and nuts or replace
the gaskets and seals to correct the leaks. Check magnetic drain plugs, breathers, seals and temperature
indicators during regularly-scheduled oil checks and changes.
Fill Meritor axles with Meritor-specified lubricants only. Lubricants and capacities are listed in the
Specifications chapter. Refer to “Approved Rear Drive Axle Lubricants,” which you can access on the
Meritor Web site at:
http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/tp9539.pdf
and Lubrication–Maintenance Manual 1, which you can access at
http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm1.pdf
You must fill Meritor axles with Meritor-specified lubricants only. Filling
an axle with non-approved lubricants will void your warranty. Damage
to axle components can result.
Magnetic Drain Plugs

Meritor recommends replacing the magnetic drain plug each time the oil is changed. Use the correct
part. Magnetic plugs have a minimum pick-up capacity of 1.5 pounds of low carbon steel. Check the
drain plug for metal particles every at every oil change. You can reuse a magnetic drain plug if the plug
retains a minimum pick-up capacity of 1.5 pounds of low carbon steel after cleaning.
Breather
Baffle-type breathers release pressure and vacuum condensation to minimize premature oil and
component failure.
137
Cover the breather when steam cleaning the housing. If the breather is
not covered, water enters the housing and contaminates the oil. Damage
to components can result.
Axle Mounting Maintenance

Maintenance of the axle mountings consists primarily of a regular and systematic inspection of the air
suspension units and the radius and transverse rods as discussed in the Suspension chapter.
Differential Carrier
The differential assembly, drive pinion gear, and pinion cage assembly are mounted in the differential
carrier. By removing the axle shafts, the carrier can be removed for inspection, adjustment, or replace-
ment without having to remove the axle housing from the vehicle. Refer to the Meritor manual, Single
Reduction Differential Carriers, Maintenance Manual 5 (supplied with the bus) for maintenance and
repair information.
Differential Assembly
The differential is a conventional four-pinion type carried in a two-piece case mounted in tapered roller
bearings. The drive (ring) gear is bolted to the flanged half of the differential case. The ring and pinion
gears are manufactured in matched, lapped sets and should always be installed as such to assure satisfac-
tory operation. Thrust washers are used between the side gears and differential case and also between the
differential pinion gears and case. The case halves are secured by cap screws and hardened washers.
The differential is supported in tapered roller bearings which accept both thrust and radial loads. The
bearings are mounted in supports in the carrier, while thrust loads are born by the adjusting rings thread-
ed into the carrier supports and bearing caps.
Pinion and Cage Assembly

The drive pinion is installed straight into the differential carrier. It is straddle mounted between two
tapered roller bearings at the outer end and one straight roller bearing at the inner end. The tapered bear-
ings are adjusted by shimming, while the roller bearing is held in place with a snap ring. Shims are used
between the drive pinion and the differential to adjust tooth contact and gear backlash. The pinion shaft
and cage assembly cannot be removed from the carrier until the differential assembly is removed from
the carrier also.
Axle Housing and Shafts

The axle housing is a one-piece design with the differential bowl centered. The housing has outer end
tubes which are threaded to accept wheel bearing adjusting nuts. The axle shafts are the same for left or
right sides. The flange at the outer end is attached to the hub by studs, tapered dowels, and nuts. The in-
ner end is splined to the differential side gears.
138
Axle Shaft Mounting
The axle shafts are retained with studs, nuts, lock washers, and tapered dowels. The studs must be
straight and dowels of correct taper must be used. There should always be a slight clearance between the
nuts and the mounting flange when the nuts are tight.
Whenever inspection shows no clearance between the nut and flange, excessive wear exists at the ta-
pered dowels, studs, or tapered holes in the axle shaft flange. The component with the worn condition
must be replaced.
Stud nuts not tightened to the recommended torque will result in play at the flange, broken or worn
studs, and damaged parts.
Axle Shaft Replacement

The following procedure for removal and installation of the axle shaft is applicable regardless of wheth-
er the axle assembly is removed or installed on the vehicle.
Axle Shaft Removal
Wear safe eye protection. Do not hit the round driving lugs on the head
of the axle shafts as the lugs can break and cause injury.
Do not use a chisel or wedge to loosen the axle shafts and dowels. The
chisel or wedge can damage the hub, shafts, or oil seals.
1. Remove the nuts and washers from the hub studs.

2. Strike the center of the flange with a lead hammer to loosen the flange and dowels from the studs
(Figure 4-5). An alternative method is to use a large hammer (5 to 6 lbs.) against a 1.5" brass
drift or a 1.5" brass mallet used as a drift.
3. Withdraw the axle shaft from the housing, then remove the gasket from the hub or flange. Three
threaded holes may be provided in the axle shaft flange for use with puller screws, if necessary.
139
Axle Shaft Installation
1. Before installing the axle shafts, the hubs should be removed and the bearings cleaned, inspected,
and adjusted as directed in the Brakes chapter.
2. Install a new gasket over the hub studs.
3. Check that the oil seal wiper is in place on the outer end of the axle housing load tube and the oil
seal assembly is in place on the hub studs.
4. Dip the splined end of the shaft into rear axle lubricant, then insert the shaft into the housing,
guiding the splines into the side gear and, at the same time, align the flange holes with the hub
studs. When the studs and flange holes are aligned, push the axle shaft into place.
5. Install the tapered dowels, external toothed lock washers, and nuts on the tapered holes in the
flange. Tighten the nuts alternately across the diameter to 150–230 ft lb (205–310 N-m) torque.
6. Observe that clearance exists between the nuts and axle shaft flange. If no clearance exists, this
indicates excessive wear at the studs, dowels, or flange holes. Replace the worn parts as neces-
sary.
Figure 4-5, Axle Shaft Removal
140
Chapter 5– Suspension
General Information
When replacing any component or attachment on the suspensions or

axles, replacement parts must be identical or of equal quality to the OEM
parts. Torque values must be applied as specified during reassembly.
When using a crowfoot wrench to torque down difficult-to-reach

fasteners, you must adjust the torque setting on your torque wrench
following the formula provided in the “Specifications” chapter.
Otherwise you will over-torque and possibly break fasteners and void
your warranty.
Description
The Gillig Low Floor features a Neway 4-bag rear suspension and a Gillig Air Ride 4-bag front suspen-
sion. The suspension system uses air from the air system to pressurize air springs. The flow of air into
the suspension system is controlled by automatic valves, which maintain a constant vehicle ride height
by pressurizing or exhausting air to or from the air springs as needed. Air system information is provided
in the Air System chapter.
In Case of Suspension Failure

The suspension system is designed for stability and will usually allow the coach to be driven even if
spring failure occurs. The emergency brake protection valve, installed in the service line leading to
the suspension system, automatically maintains safe air brake pressure if a suspension failure causes a
sudden loss of air pressure. Most problems or failures do not totally disable the suspension. Roadside re-
pairs or towing are not necessary for anything less than a major breakdown. If the proper steps are taken,
a vehicle with a disabled suspension system can often be driven for several miles until a repair facility
is reached. If the springs fail on one side of the suspension system, making the bus hard to drive, the op-
posite air springs should be completely deflated. Rubber bumpers will support the vehicle with collapsed
air springs. To deflate and eliminate air pressure to air springs, disconnect the automatic height control
valve actuating arm and rotate to the down (vertical) position. (See the “Ride Height Adjustment” sec-
tion in this chapter.)
141
Suspension
Air Springs
Air springs provide passengers with a smooth and comfortable ride. The opening at the bottom of the air
spring is smaller than that at the top. Each end of the flexible member (the air bag) has a reinforced bead
which forms an air-tight seal when the spring is inflated. When in operation, the air bag folds over the
piston at the bottom of the suspension so that the characteristic lobe shape is produced. There are rubber
stops inside the air spring assembly to support the coach if there is an air spring failure and to prevent
damage to the coach understructure from large suspension deflections.
Removal
The coach must be supported high enough off the ground to be sure the
air bags are not resting on their internal stops.
1. Securely support the coach body by placing blocks or jacks under the frame rail. The axle must
also be supported either by the wheels or with a jack.
2. (Rear suspension only) Place blocks or bottle jacks between the suspension H-frame and the
outriggers containing the top air spring mounting plates.
3. If the air system is pressurized, disconnect the height control valve links and pull down on the
height control valve levers to exhaust air from the air springs. Do not change the height control
valve lever adjustment.
4. Disconnect the air fitting from the hollow stud in the top of the air bag.
5. Remove the nuts attaching the air bag mounting plate to the frame or outrigger.
6. Remove the nuts that attach the air bag to the lower mounting plate on the suspension beam as-
sembly. Collapse the air bag to get clearance and remove the assembly from the suspension.
7. Remove the nuts attaching the upper mounting plate to the upper air bag retainer.
8. Remove the air spring.
142
Suspension
Inspection
Defective air bags should be replaced, not serviced. For reasons of safety
and cost, Gillig recommends replacing defective air bags with new air
bags.
1. Examine the air bag for evidence of cracks, punctures, deterioration, or chafing. Replace the air
bag if any damage is evident.
2. Inspect the upper and lower retainers and the piston for cracks, burrs, or other damage. All sur-
faces which contact the air bag must be smooth to prevent damage to the bag.
3. Examine the threads on the studs (see Figure 5-1) on the top and bottom of the air spring.
Figure 5-1, Examine Studs
143
Suspension
Installation, Front & Rear
Use standard S.A.E. torque values unless otherwise noted.

1. Install the air spring into the upper mounting plate, making sure that the hollow stud is inside. In-
stall a large nut and lockwasher on the hollow stud. Tighten the large nut to the specified torque.
2. Install the lower air spring mounting plate onto the air spring piston. Tighten the mounting cap-
screws to the specified torque.
3. Place the air spring assembly into position in the lower air spring support assembly. Install the
bolts, washers and locknuts which secure the lower mounting plate to the lower support assem-
bly. Tighten to the specified torque.
4. Collapse the air bag slightly to obtain clearance and install the upper mounting plate into the air
spring mounting bracket on the frame rail. Install a lock washer and lock nut on the outer mount-
ing stud of the air spring assembly. Also install a bolt, lock washer, and lock nut through the
upper mounting plate, the spacer, and the mounting bracket on the inside of the mounting plate.
Tighten these nuts to the specified torque.
5. Connect the air line to the hollow stud at the top of the air spring.
6. Connect the height control valve link, if disconnected. Make sure the lever adjustment has not
been changed. For the rear, connect the height control valve links—the rear suspension uses two
height control valves.
7. Build up air pressure in the coach air system to normal operating pressure. Remove the block
and/or jacks from under the coach and the axle.
8. Observe that the air bags are vertical, not cocked at an angle. If any air bag is misaligned, pro-
ceed as follows:
a. Block the frame and axle and remove air pressure.
b. To position the air bag forward or backwards, loosen the top mounting bolts and slide the air
bag as necessary.
c. For the front air spring, position the bumper so it is centered between the air bags. Skip this
step for rear air springs.
d. Tighten the mounting bolts to the proper torque.
e. To position the front air bag left or right, loosen the bottom mounting bolts and slide the air
bag as necessary; tighten the mounting bolts to the proper torque. Skip this step for the rear
air bags—if the H frame is aligned, the rear air bags should be centered.
f. Repeat Step 7.
9. Check for air leaks at the upper and lower spring mountings by coating them with a solution of
soap and water. Any leaks will show up as bubbles and must be repaired. If leaks are found, re-
move the air lines and check that connections are not damaged. Replace any defective parts that
cause leakage.
144
Suspension
Shock Absorbers
The Low Floor coach features double-acting, telescoping shock absorbers on both the front and rear sus-
pensions. The front suspension uses two shock absorbers, while there are four shock absorbers installed
on the rear suspension. Each of the shock absorbers is interchangeable with the others on the same axle;
however, a front shock absorber will not fit on the rear suspension and vice-versa.
Removal
Front Suspension
1. Securely support the coach body by placing blocks or jacks under the frame rail (see the “Jacking
Instructions” section of the General Information chapter for jacking/blocking locations). The axle
should also be supported either by the wheels or with a jack.
2. Remove the lower nut, flat washer, and rubber bushing. Discard the rubber bushing.
3. Remove the nut, bolt, and washer from the upper mounting ears.
4. Compress the shock absorber as necessary to remove it from the upper mounting stud. Then
remove the lower mounting stud and rubber bushing, which are part of the shock absorber as-
sembly, from the air spring mounting assembly. Discard the upper mounting bushings and the
remaining part of the lower mounting bushings.
Rear Suspension
1. Securely support the coach body by placing blocks or jacks under the frame rail (see the “Jacking
Instructions” section of the General Information chapter for jacking/blocking locations). The axle
should also be supported either by the wheels or with a jack.
2. Remove the nuts and washers from the shock absorber upper and lower anchor bolts.
3. Pull the shock absorber off the mounting bolts.
145
Suspension
Installation
Torque values for suspension fasteners are listed in the Specifications

chapter of this manual (unless otherwise noted).
Front Suspension
1. Use new bushings when installing the shock absorbers.
2. Slide the shock between the upper mounting ears and install the thru-bolt, washer, and lock nut.
3. Compress the shock absorber to allow insertion of the lower stud into the hole in the air spring
mounting assembly. Be sure to use a new rubber bushing on the mounting stud above the air
spring mounting assembly.
4. Place another new rubber bushing below the air spring mounting assembly and install the lower
washer and mounting nut on the end of the stud. Tighten the nut to the specified torque.
5. Tighten the upper mounting nut to the specified torque value.
Rear Suspension
1. Install the shock absorber eyes over the anchor pins or bolts.
2. Install a washer and a nut on each anchor pin or bolt. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
146
Suspension
Troubleshooting Shock Absorbers
With Koni shock absorbers, certain problems entitle the owner to a warranty claim, while others void the
warranty. Use the following guide to determine the source of shock problems and the possibility of mak-
ing a warranty claim with Koni.
Problem: Shock has “free stroke” when extending to its maximum length
Indicates air has entered the working cylinder, but does not indicate failure. To remove excess air, follow
these steps:
1. Extend to maximum length.
2. Turn shock upside down.
3. While holding shock upside down, compress to minimum length.
4. Turn shock right side up.
5. Extend to maximum length.
Problem: No resistance felt in extension only

• Internal valve does not close properly and a warranty claim can be made.
Problem: No resistance felt in both compression and extension

• Loss of oil. Indicates rod oil seal has failed and warranty claim can be made.
Problem: Shock absorber is stuck or jammed

• If lock-up is caused by bent piston rod due to incorrect application, modification, or mounting, the
warranty is void.
• If above conditions do not exist, warranty claim can be made.
Problem: Broken piston rod or mounting attachment

• Caused by incorrect application, modification, or mounting. Warranty is void.
Problem: Shock makes “hissing” noise, but resistance is felt in both extension
and compression
• This does not point to a defect but is caused by oil flowing through the valve system in the shock.
Not covered under warranty.
Problem: Buildup of road grime on the shock body

• Because the shock seal is designed to allow shock oil to pass through it for the purpose of lubrica-
tion, a portion of shock oil will appear on the shock body as a fine film. Koni compensates for this
loss of oil by adding 40 percent more oil to the reservoir than the shock needs. This “misting” is
normal, and not covered under warranty. If shock oil runs in streams and drips off the shock, this
indicates seal failure and requires shock replacement, and a warranty claim can be made.
147
Suspension
Ride Height Adjustment
The air suspension height control valves (also known as “leveling valves”) automatically control the air
pressure in the air springs to maintain the proper ride height. As the vehicle is loaded, the air springs will
compress slightly. The height control valve actuating arm will be moved up from the neutral position to
the fill position. This will allow air from the air tanks to flow into the air springs, increasing the pressure
in the springs, bringing the air spring back to the proper height. When the vehicle is unloaded, the air
springs will slightly increase in length and the height control valve actuating arm will be moved from the
neutral position to the exhaust position. This will exhaust some of the air in the air spring until enough
air has been exhausted to bring the air spring back to the proper height. The proper air spring height
is important to allow for proper suspension travel and to maintain the proper driveline angles. Out-of-
adjustment air spring heights can cause the bus to lean, not allow for full suspension travel, leading to
bottoming or topping out of the suspension and damage to shock absorbers, or cause improper driveline
angles, leading to driveline life or vibration problems. The height control valves do not “level” the bus.
They only control the air spring height.
The front suspension has one height control valve and the rear has two. The two rear suspension height
control valves keep the bus level to the road (controls leaning) while the single front valve only main-
tains the proper air spring height at the front suspension air springs.
To check and adjust the air spring height:
1. The air system must have at least 80 psi in the accessory air tank. Before adjusting the air spring
height, run the engine until the air gauge in the dash reads at least 110 psi or apply shop air until
the gauge reads at least 100 psi.
Never get underneath any part of the coach unless its weight is fully
supported by jack stands or blocks on the frame. Never put yourself in
a position where a change in air spring pressure could cause the coach to
crush or pinch you. The Low Floor bus has very little ground clearance
with the air springs exhausted!
2. Either work from a pit or install jacks or blocks under the frame at the front and rear of the bus.
Refer to the “Jacking” section of the General Information chapter for jacking points. Do not jack
the bus up; just install the jacks or blocks up to the frame to prevent the bus from dropping and
causing injury or damage when the height control valves are adjusted. If the air spring heights are
too large before adjusting, the bus may lower down onto the jacks/blocks under the frame. If this
happens, raise the bus and set the jacks/blocks lower so the bus frame will clear the jacks/blocks
when the springs are set correctly.
3. First check the rough adjustment of the front air springs (Figure 5-2). The front air spring height
should be 9". If the front air spring height is 8.5" to 9.5", go to Step 4 and set the rear suspension
air spring height. If not within this range, loosen the clamp holding the link end and push the
link up to raise the air spring height or down to lower the air spring height. Move the link very
slowly; there will be a delay between the time when the link is moved, to when the air spring
height will start to change. When the proper air spring height is reached, center the valve in the
neutral position and tighten the link end clamp. To hold the valve in the neutral position while
148
Suspension
tightening, insert a pin or dowel (a golf tee works
fine) into the alignment hole (Figure 5-3). Remove
the pin after the link end clamp is tightened.
4. Check the air spring height at the rear suspension SPRING AIR
RH (curb side). For both air springs, the proper HEIGHT SPRING
spring height is 11.5" ± 0.12". If incorrect, adjust
the spring height by loosening the link end clamp
at the bracket on the H frame and pushing the link 20-300-148
up or down as required to achieve the 11.5" spring
Figure 5-2, Measuring Spring Height
height. After reaching the proper spring height, en-
sure the valve is in the neutral position, then tighten
the link end clamp as described in Step 3.
5. Check the air spring height at the
rear suspension LH (drivers side)
by repeating Step 4 above, this
time on the LH side.
6. Recheck the air spring height on
the rear suspension RH side. If it
changed after adjusting the LH
side, readjust as necessary.
It is important to make both sides
the same height. If not the same,
the bus will lean.
20-300-149
7. Recheck the height adjustment
of the front air springs. The Figure 5-3, Inserting Centering Pin
front air spring height should be
9" +/- 0.12". If incorrect, adjust as
required.
8. Remove the blocks or jacks from
under the frame.
149
Suspension
Height Control Valve Performance Test
1. Build up air system pressure to at least 65 psi.
2. Disconnect the height control valve link.
3. Move the control arm up 45° for 10 seconds. Air should flow to the air springs.
4. Move control arm to neutral position. The valve should shut off the air flow.
5. Move the control arm down 45° for 10 seconds. The air should exhaust.
6. Move the control arm to the neutral position. The valve should shut off air flow.
7. The valve is good if performance is as noted.
8. Refer to the adjustment procedure.
150
Suspension
Front Suspension
The front air suspension supports a Meritor FH946 solid beam steering axle. The air suspension is com-
posed of air springs for a smooth ride, shock absorbers to dampen bounce, and torque rods to maintain
axle/frame geometry.
Wheel bearings, air suspension, brakes, and hydraulic power steering components are described in the
appropriate chapters of this manual.
Torque Rods
The upper and lower torque rods are hollow steel tubes with internal threads at each end into which the
rod ends are threaded. The ends are secured by clamp assemblies. The torque rods have right hand and
left hand threads. Make sure the correct thread is at the correct end of the rod. The right hand threaded
end of the upper rods is stained red.
The torque rods hold the axle in a position which is perpendicular to the axis of the chassis so that the
tires track in parallel lines when in operation. This operation is performed at the factory and should not
require service by the user. The torque rods are also the means by which caster is adjusted. Except for
actual replacement of a torque rod, the user should not have to adjust caster after it is set at the factory.
The right-hand threaded rod end (red end of upper rods) is always
attached to the air spring mounting support assemblies. The left-hand
threaded ends (no red end on the upper rod) are always attached to
chassis members.
Replacement
Gillig recommends that torque rods always be changed out in pairs.

1. Support the coach body by placing blocks or jacks under the frame rail. Be sure that the coach
cannot move. The axle should also be supported either by the wheels or with a jack.
2. Remove the two bolts, lockwashers, and locknuts which attach the rod ends to the suspension
tower and the air spring mounting assembly.
3. Remove the torque rod.
151
Suspension
4. Thoroughly inspect the torque rod for any signs of shearing, bushing deterioration, or other dam-
age including cracking or bending.
5. Replace any damaged parts with new parts. The length of the torque rods should be measured
as shown in Figure 5-4; nominal dimension “A” should be 20.20" for upper rods and 22.88" for
lower rods. Be sure clamp bolts are properly tightened.
The torque rod dimensions stated in Step 4 should be considered

nominal. In some cases it may be necessary to measure the old torque
rod and adjust the new one to the same length. Always perform a full
suspension inspection and alignment after changing or adjusting torque
rods, including a check of caster, wheelbase, and air bag straightness.
6. Inspect the axle bracket boss for any excessive wear.
7. Install the torque rod into the mounting brackets in the suspension tower and the air spring
mounting assembly. Spray a suitable anti-rust lubrication on the threads before assembly. Make
sure the right hand threaded end is attached to the air spring mounting assembly. Do not attach
the rod end with the right hand threads to the suspension tower.
8. Install the bolts, washers, and nuts into the ends of the rod. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque.
A
Figure 5-4, Nominal Torque Rod Length
152
Suspension
Rear Suspension
The Neway 4-bag rear suspension has an H-frame construction, which supports four air springs. The
H‑frame is a solid piece made up of two pairs of beams perpendicular to each other. The beams are not
detachable from one another. The rear axle rests on equalizer beams. The air springs rest on mounting
plates at each end of the other two suspension beams. The suspension is connected to the chassis frame
by four torque rods. The air springs and shock absorbers form the other connecting points of the suspen-
sion and frame.
Two height control valves automatically maintain correct ride height by controlling air pressure in the air
springs. Two upper and two lower torque rods are used to position the axle. Each of these rods has rub-
ber bushings. Two pairs of telescoping-type shock absorbers are installed.
Bracket Assy.
Air Spring
Bracket Assy.
Torque Rod
Upper
Torque Rod
Lower
Figure 5-5, Neway Rear Suspension
153
Suspension
Inspection
Daily Inspection
Check the rear suspension daily or before each trip to be sure everything is working properly. Visually
inspect air springs for sufficient and equal pressure and to see that the suspension is set at the proper
spring height of 10.9".
Torque Rod Replacement

The upper torque rods are attached to the axle housing and frame brackets. The lower torque rods are
attached to the suspension H-frame and the chassis frame.
Upper Torque Rod Removal

1. Support the axle in its present position.
2. Remove the nuts and bolts that attach the rod end to the crossmember or frame rail.
3. Remove the bolts that attach the rod to the axle housing.
Before disconnecting any of the torque rods, check and record the pinion
angle for future reference.
4. Remove the rod. Count shims when you remove torque rods and be sure to put them all back
when you replace the torque rods.
Lower Torque Rod Removal

1. Support the axle.
2. Remove nuts and bolts that attach rod end to the suspension frame bracket.
3. Remove the bolt that attaches the rod to the H frame.
154
Suspension
Torque Rod Installation

chapter of this manual.

1. Inspect the axle bracket boss for any excessive wear.
2. Thoroughly inspect the rod for signs of shearing, deterioration, or other damage, including crack-
ing or bending. Any damaged part should be replaced with a new part.
3. Tighten the axle mounting locknuts for the torque rod to the specified torque.
4. Recheck the pinion angle. Make any adjustments necessary.
Removing the Rear Suspension

The following procedure provides a guideline for removing the suspension from the coach chassis. If
your shop is not equipped with the appropriate equipment required in these steps, call Gillig Service for
further instruction.
Removing the suspension is hazardous. Take all precautions to protect

yourself from injury and the coach from damage. Because no two shop
environments are the same, the instructions for removing and installing
the suspension serve only as guidelines.
1. If the air system is pressurized, pull down on the height control valve levers to exhaust air from
the air springs. Do not change the height control valve adjustment.
2. Drain all air from the air tanks by opening the four drain valves inside the battery compartment.
3. Disconnect the air hoses from the brake chambers. Disconnect the ABS sensor wires and any
other cables, wires, or brackets connecting the axle to the chassis.
4. Position a hydraulic lift or jack under the rear axle and raise the coach a minimum of 4 feet, as
measured from the bottom of the wheels to the ground. Refer to the “Jacking Instructions” sec-
tion of the General Information chapter for jacking locations and safety information. Be sure to
block the front wheels to prevent the coach from rolling.
155
Suspension
5. Place appropriate jack stands or blocks under the frame rails to support the vehicle.
6. Secure the H-frame and axle with a suitable harness or hoist. The hoist should have two saddles,
one to support each side of the axle.
Do not permit the axle to hang unsupported. The weight of the axle will
damage the air springs.
7. Disconnect the driveline from the axle.
8. Disconnect the height control valve link at its lower bracket on the suspension beam.
9. Disconnect the upper torque rods from the axle by removing the mounting hardware which
mounts them to the bracket on the axle housing.
10. Disconnect the four shock absorbers from the H-frame as follows:
a. Remove the nuts, bolts, and washers from the lower shock absorber mounts.
b. Remove the shock absorbers from the H-frame.
11. Disconnect the lower torque rods from the frame bracket by removing the nuts, bolts, and wash-
ers from the frame bracket.
12. Remove the nuts and lockwashers which attach the air bags to the lower mounting plates on the
suspension beam assembly. Keep the air springs attached at their upper mounting plates.
13. The suspension and axle are now detached from the chassis and coach body. Lower the suspen-
sion and axle.
The axle and suspension must both be supported before they are
separated from each other.
14. To remove the axle from the suspension beam, remove the 8 bolts from the suspension beam.
156
Suspension
Installing the Rear Suspension
The following procedure provides a guideline for installing the suspension on the coach chassis. If your
shop is not equipped with the appropriate equipment required in these steps, call Gillig Service for fur-
ther instruction.
Installing the suspension is hazardous. Take all measures to protect

yourself from injury and the coach from damage. Because no two shop
environments are the same, the instructions for removing and installing
the suspension serve only as guidelines.

1. Attach the axle to the H-frame as follows:
a. Support the H-frame on jack stands.
b. Using a suitable harness, place the axle over the saddles on the H-beam.
c. Secure the axle on the suspension by aligning the dowel pins in the axle with the correspond-
ing holes in the H-frame.
d. Install the 8 bolts connecting the axle to the H-frame and tighten to the torque specified in
“Axle & Suspension Torque Values” in the Specifications chapter.
2. Raise the coach a minimum of 4 feet, as measured from the bottom of the wheels to the ground.
3. Place jack stands or blocks under the frame rails to support the vehicle.
4. Secure the H-frame and axle with a suitable harness or hoist. The hoist should have two saddles
to support each side of the axle.
5. Place the H-frame and axle beneath the rear of the coach and raise with a hydraulic lift or jack.
6. Attach the air springs to the mounting plates on the suspension H-frame. Tighten the locknuts to
the specified torque.
7. Attach the lower torque rods to the frame bracket by installing the locknut, bolt, and washer to
the frame bracket. Torque the locknut to the proper torque.
8. Attach the shock absorbers to the H-frame as follows:
a. Place shock absorber between mounting ears on H-frame.
b. Install bolt, washer, nut. Tighten nut to specified torque.
9. Install the upper torque rods to the axle housing and the frame brackets.
10. Attach the driveline to the axle.
11. Attach the lower end of the height control valve link to the suspension beam.
157
Suspension
12. The suspension and axle are now attached from the chassis and coach body. Remove the harness
and lower the coach.
13. Reconnect all brake hoses, ABS sensor cables, brackets, etc.
14. Add air to the chassis air system and check for proper ride height.
15. Inspect all fasteners and axle alignment.
Rear Axle Alignment

The rear axle must be kept perpendicular to the frame. The rear axle alignment is set at the factory and
should only require adjustment if the torque rods are replaced or altered. To adjust the rear axle align-
ment, add or remove washers between the lower torque rods and the torque rod frame brackets.
158
Suspension
Suspension Troubleshooting
To help you in identifying and repairing suspension problems, we have included a Suspension Trouble-
shooting section in this chapter. It deals primarily with air spring-related problems; for steering or han-
dling problems, refer to the “Front Axle Troubleshooting” section later in this chapter.
Problem Possible Cause Remedies

All air springs flat (no air). Insufficient air pressure in the vehicle Check the air pressure gauge. If air
air system. pressure is low, run the engine until a
minimum pressure of 100 psi is indi-
cated on the gauge*.
Air leakage from the suspension air Listen for air leakage due to loose
system or the air brake system. fittings or damaged air lines, air
springs, brake actuators, or control
valve. Tighten loose fittings to stop
leakage and/or replace worn or
damaged parts.
Air springs deflate rapidly Air leakage from the suspension air Listen for air leakage due to loose fit-
when vehicle is parked. system. tings between air tank and air suspen-
sion or damaged air lines, air springs,
or height control valve. Apply a soapy
solution to connections and air springs
to check for bubbles (leaks). Tighten
loose fittings to stop leakage and/or
replace worn or damaged parts with
new ones.
Coach ride height too high or Height control valve out of adjustment. Readjust the height control valve.
too low.
Air springs ruptured. Air spring cut or punctured. Locate leaks by listening for escaping
air; locate smaller leaks by apply-
ing soap and water solution to the air
spring and watching for bubbles. Tem-
porary repair can be made to punctures
and cuts of less than 1/8" by applying
hot patches to the damaged area on the
inside and outside of the air spring. If
the cut is longer than 1/8", install a new
spring.
Tires, rims, or other objects are rubbing Check the clearance between the air
the air spring. spring and the tire. If the tire, rim, or
other objects contact the inflated air
spring when the vehicle is loaded,
repair this condition or consult with
Gillig Service.
159
Suspension
Suspension Troubleshooting (Continued)

Air spring failed. Continual or repeated overextension of Visually inspect for broken or loose
the air spring. shock absorber or shock absorber
mounting bracket. Reconnect loose
parts and replace any defective parts.
Check the adjustment of the height
control valves.
Air spring(s) worn out. Replace.
Air spring(s) fail to fully de- Restricted air line(s) between the height Disconnect the height control valve
flate when all weight is re- control valve and the air spring(s). linkage and rotate the actuating lever
to the 45° down position. If the air
moved from the suspension.
spring(s) remain inflated, check for
pinched or blocked line(s).
Shock absorber failures. Overextension. Shock brackets in wrong location.
Improper shocks installed. Check for
oil leaking from shock. If worn out,
replace.
Vehicle unstable or handles Loose frame bolts or attachments. Tighten frame bolts and attaching parts
poorly†. to proper specifications.
Cracked or loose frame crossmembers. Repair or replace damaged frame
members and torque all nuts and bolts
to proper torque specifications.
Bad bushings Replace worn bushing; retorque to
specifications. Refer to replacement
instructions.
*The suspension air supply comes from the accessory air tank. Below 70 psi the pressure protection
valve closes, cutting off supply to the air springs. Note that the needles on the air pressure gauge show
the state of the primary and secondary air systems only; the accessory tank pressure may be low without
indicating this condition on the air pressure gauge. Always check the accessory tank for adequate
pressure if there is a low air pressure problem which is not indicated by the air pressure gauge.
†Refer to the “Front Axle Troubleshooting” section later in this chapter for more information on vehicle
handling problems.
160
Suspension
Front Axle
The Gillig Low Floor Coach features a Meritor (formerly Rockwell) FH946 front axle assembly (Figure
5-6). With proper maintenance and inspection, this assembly will last the life of the bus. The following
sections cover the various axle components and related steering systems. Keep in mind that many steer-
ing box and power steering components are covered in the Hydraulic System chapter of this manual; be
prepared to refer frequently to that chapter while working on steering assemblies.
For axle component inspection, overhaul, and repair consult the Meritor
Maintenance Manual No. 23- Bus and Coach Front Axles, supplied with
the coach. Always use the most up-to-date documentation, available
at www.arvinmeritor.com/tech_library. For technical support, call
(800) 535-5560.
Do not repair or recondition front axle components. Damaged or out-of-

specification components should be replaced. All major components are
heat-treated and tempered; they should not be bent, welded, or heated.
NEVER perform any of the following operations on axle components:
• Welding of or to steering arms, tie rod arms, knuckles, kingpins, axle
centers, tie rod assemblies, hubs, drums, or brakes.
• Hot or cold bending of knuckles, steering arms, tie rod arms, ball studs,
axle centers, or tie rod assemblies.
• Drilling out of holes in axle center for knuckle pins.
• Drilling out of draw key holes in axle center.
• Spray welding of bearing diameters on knuckles or in machined
bores.
• Milling or machining of any component.
Front Axle Removal
Refer to the “Front Suspension” table in the Specifications chapter of

this manual for proper torque figures.
161
Suspension
NUT, SHIMS
FITTING, GREASE DRAW KEy
CAP, KING PIN
BUSHING, KNUCKLE
SEAL BEARING,
COTTER THRUST
NUT, ARM AxLE BEAM
SENSOR, DRAW KEy, UPR
ABS & MTG
BRACKET
KNUCKLE ASM
SCREW, STRG
KNUCKLE STOP
ARM, STEERING
NUT, STOP SCREW
KEy, WOODRUFF
KEy, WOODRUFF COTTER, TIE ROD
KING PIN
COTTER
NUT, ARM
ARM, TIE ROD

SEAL
BUSHING, LWR KNUCKLE END ASM, TIE ROD
CAP, KING PIN
FITTING, GREASE TUBE ASM

TIE ROD W/CLAMPS
TIE ROD ASM

W / ENDS
Figure 5-6, Meritor FH946 Axle
Observe the following precautions before attempting to remove the

front axle.
• DO NOT apply heat to any axle components to aid in removal or
disassembly of the axle. Excessive heat will weaken axle components.
• Safety glasses should be worn to protect the eyes during axle
replacement and repair.
• Raise the front of the coach and block the frame securely to prevent
the coach from lowering when air pressure is exhausted from the
suspension system. Safe jacking points are identified in the “Towing
and Jacking” section of the General Information chapter. 
• Use special adapters on the jack lifts to prevent the axle from rolling off
of the jacks when it is disconnected from the front suspension attaching
members.
• DO NOT go under the coach unless safety blocks are in position to
prevent the coach from dropping.
• DO NOT raise the coach with a hoist or chain fall and permit the axle
to hang unsupported. The weight of the hanging axle can damage the
air springs.
162
Suspension
To remove the front axle:
1. Block the rear wheels securely to prevent the coach from rolling.
2. Following the instructions in the “Jacking” section of the General Information chapter of this
manual, raise the front end of the coach until the lower edges of the skirt panels are about eigh-
teen inches from the floor. Securely support the coach using stands or blocks safely positioned
under frame members as specified in the jacking instructions.
3. Remove the front wheels as described in the Brakes and Wheels chapter of this manual.
4. Exhaust the air pressure from the air system by opening the four air valves located behind the
battery box door. Disconnect the air lines from the front brake chambers.
5. Remove any clamps or brackets which hold brake or suspension air lines to the axle assembly.
6. Remove or disconnect any brake components connected between the axle assembly and the
coach body. Disconnect the ABS sensor wires.
7. Position floor jacks under the left and right sides of the axle beam. Keep in mind that the axle is
top-heavy and can flip or roll over once the torque rods are disconnected; for this reason, make
sure the floor jacks are equipped with adaptors to keep the axle upright. Use the jacks to lift the
axle enough to support its weight, but not enough to lift the coach off the stands positioned in
Step 2.
8. Disconnect the height control valve link from the mounting bracket. Push the control arm of the
valve down to let the air out of the air springs.
9. Disconnect the air lines from the air springs. Remove the mounting nuts which attach the air
springs to the chassis.
10. Remove the bolts and nuts which attach the upper and lower torque rods to the frame. Be sure
that the axle is firmly supported and cannot move when the torque rods are disconnected.
11. Remove the shock absorbers as described in this chapter.
12. Lower the axle onto the jacks until the air springs clear the underside of the coach. Carefully pull
the jacks and axle assembly from under the coach.
Front Axle Installation

1. Position the axle on two hydraulic jacks, with one jack positioned at each end of the axle beam.
Keep in mind that the axle is top-heavy and can flip or roll over once the torque rods are discon-
nected; for this reason, make sure the floor jacks are equipped with adaptors to keep the axle
upright.
2. Carefully move the axle into position under the coach. Feed the air spring studs through the cor-
rect holes in the mounting plates as the axle is lifted into place.
3. Attach the upper and lower torque rods to the frame. Do not tighten the mounting hardware yet.
4. Install and tighten to specification the upper air spring mounting nuts. Connect the air lines to the
air springs.
5. Install the shock absorbers as instructed in the “Shock Absorber Replacement” section in this
chapter. Tighten the mounting hardware to the specified torques.
163
Suspension
6. Position the axle by raising or lowering the jacks at each end until a clearance of 9" is obtained
between the lower and upper air spring mounting plates. With the axle in this normal ride height
position, tighten the nuts on the torque rods to the proper torque values.
7. With the axle still in the normal ride height position, connect the height control valve link to the
height control valve.
8. Connect the air lines to the brake chambers and the air spring bellows. Reinstall the ABS sensor
wires and any brackets or clamps removed earlier.
9. Install the tires and wheels. Follow the instructions given in the Brakes and Wheels chapter of
this manual.
10. Raise the coach sufficiently to remove the safety blocks. Lower the vehicle to the floor and
remove the jacks. Start the coach and build up air pressure in the system. Wait a few minutes
for air pressure to flow to the suspension system and then check for the proper spring height (9"
clearance between the upper and lower air spring mounting plates). If the dimension is more or
less than the specification, adjust the ride height as explained in this chapter. Make sure the lever
adjusting nut is securely tightened when ride height adjustment is completed.
11. Check for air leaks at the upper and lower air spring mountings and at all air connections at
the brake chambers and air springs. Check for air leaks by coating the upper and lower spring
mountings and air line fitting connections with a solution of soap and water. No leakage is ac-
ceptable.
Axle Overhaul
The steering knuckle, kingpin, and bushings may be replaced either while the axle is mounted on the
coach or with the axle removed from the coach. Inspections made while the axle is mounted on the
coach are useful for determining the amount of work necessary for correction of the problems. Check
the front end alignment as directed in the “Front End Alignment” section in this chapter. If the front end
cannot be aligned, the problem may be a distorted knuckle or axle beam, bent steering arms, or worn
kingpin bushings.
For axle component inspection, overhaul, and repair consult the Meritor
Maintenance Manual No. 23- Bus and Coach Front Axles, supplied with
the coach. Always use the most up-to-date documentation, available
at www.arvinmeritor.com/tech_library. For technical support, call
(800) 535-5560.
164
Suspension
Steering Linkage
The steering linkage consists of the pitman arm, drag link, tie rod, tie rod arms, and steering arms. Refer
to Meritor Maintenance Manual No. 23- Bus and Coach Front Axles, supplied with the coach. Always
use the most up-to-date documentation for tie rod and steering arm inspection and repair information.
Keep in mind that many steering box and power steering components are covered in the Hydraulic
System chapter of this manual; be prepared to refer frequently to that chapter while working on steering
assemblies.
Maintenance Suggestions
• Never high-pressure wash or steam-clean the power steering gear, as this can force contaminants
inside the gear.
• Make sure vehicle wheel cut or clearances meet specifications, and that pitman arm timing marks
are aligned properly to prevent internal bottoming of the steering gear.
• Keep tires inflated to correct pressure.
• Never use a torch to remove the pitman arm.
• Investigate and immediately correct the cause of any play, rattle, or shimmy in any part of the
steering system.
• Make sure the steering column is properly aligned.
Steering Lubrication
All lubrication fittings must be clean before applying lubri-
Grease Fitting
cant. Ensure the equipment used in applying the lubricant is
(May be covered with
clean. Every precaution should be taken to prevent entry of black plastic plug)
dirt, grit, lint, or other foreign matter into lubricant contain-
ers. Replace fittings which have become worn or damaged.
Refer to the Preventive Maintenance chapter for recom-
mended lubrication intervals. More frequent intervals may
be applied under severe operating conditions. Refer to
the Specifications chapter for recommended greases and
lubricants.
1. Tie rod ends. Lubricate the fitting at each tie rod
end until new grease comes out from the boot.
2. Drag link ends. Lubricate the fitting at both drag
link ends until new grease comes out.
3. Spindle. Lubricate the fitting each at the top and
bottom of the left and right kingpins until new
grease comes out of the thrust bearing seal and
the upper shim pack.
4. Steering column U-joints. Lubricate the fitting
at each yoke and at the slip joint. Figure 5-7, Grease Fitting Location
165
Suspension
5. Maintain grease pack behind the output shaft dirt-and-water seal as a general maintenance
procedure at least twice a year, in the spring and fall. A grease fitting is provided in the housing
trunnion. See Figure 5-7 for location of this grease fitting, which can be accessed when standing
under the bus. Remove the cover plate that protects this area from splash and spray. Reach up
and find the grease fitting with your finger tip. Use only NLGI grade 2 or 3 multipurpose chas-
sis lube, and use only a hand operated grease gun on the fitting. A 90-degree fitting on your
grease gun will make the job easier. Add grease until it begins to extrude past the sector shaft dirt
and water seal.
Pitman Arm
Pitman Arm Removal
1. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the drag link rod end at the pitman arm.
2. Remove the drag link from the pitman arm.
3. Loosen the pitman arm clamp bolt.
4. Insert a chisel or wedge into the slot between the bosses of the pitman arm upper end.
5. Remove the pitman arm from the steering gear sector (output) shaft. Use a proper puller if the
arm will not come off of the sector shaft under hand pressure.
Pitman Arm Installation
Axle and suspension fastener torque specifications are listed in the

Specifications section of this manual.
1. Align the timing mark on the pitman arm with the timing mark on the sector shaft. The pitman
arm should be angled 3º toward the rear of the coach with the wheels in the straight ahead posi-
tion.
2. Install the pitman arm on the sector shaft.
3. Tighten the clamping bolt to 240 ft-lb torque.
Use a torque wrench only. DO NOT use an impact wrench.

4. Connect the drag link to the pitman arm. Ensure that the threads are not damaged and are free
from all foreign material on the taper and then tighten the drag link end nut to the proper torque.
Advance the nut to the next aligning slot and install a new cotter pin in the castle nut. Under
no circumstances may the nut be backed off in order to align the slot with the hole. If the
torque exceeds the maximum value when installing the cotter, remove the nut and install it again,
stopping at the lower torque limit before installing the cotter. After installation, lubricate the end
socket with the lubricant specified in the Specifications chapter of this manual.
166
Suspension
Drag Link
The drag link assembly consists of a tube and two end assemblies. One end assembly is crimped onto
the tube and is not serviceable. The other, at the pitman arm end, is replaceable. It is held in place by
a clamp. Length adjustment is provided by the threaded end of the rod and tube at this end of the drag
link.
NEVER attempt to adjust the crimped (steering arm) end assembly of

the drag link! Adjustment of the crimped end may result in catastrophic
drag link failure.
The drag link ends require no attention in service other than periodic lubrication and inspection to ensure
the ball studs and ball stud sockets are tight. Replace the link end when there is excessive up and down
motion, lost motion, or end play at the ball end of the stud.
Drag Link Removal

1. Remove the cotter pins and nuts which attach the drag link to the pitman and steering arms.
2. Remove the ball studs from the pitman arm and steering arm while tapping on the arm with a
light hammer and using a heavy hammer as backing. Push on the drag link to remove it. Replace
any drag link tube or end assemblies if they are damaged in any way.
Drag Link Installation

1. Install the rod end assembly on the pitman arm end of the drag link tube. Adjust drag link length
if necessary.
2. Make sure the threads on the stud and stud nut are clean and not damaged and are free from all
foreign material on the taper.
3. Position the ball studs in the holes in the pitman and steering arm. Install the appropriate nut on
each stud and tighten.

4. Use a torque wrench to tighten the ball nuts to 225 ft-lbs of torque. Advance the nut to the next
aligning slot and install a new cotter pin in the castle nut. Under no circumstances may the
nut be backed-off in order to align the slot with the hole. If the torque exceeds the maximum
value when installing the cotter, remove the nut and install it again, stopping at the lower torque
limit before installing the cotter. After installation, lubricate the end socket.
167
Suspension
Drag Link Adjustment
It should not be necessary to alter the length of a drag link unless a new drag link has been installed or if
the end assembly has been replaced.
1. Position the front wheels in a “straight ahead” position.
2. Locate the steering gear sector shaft one half of the total turns from lock to lock. Align the timing
mark on the pitman arm with the timing mark on the sector (output) shaft.
3. Loosen the drag link clamp bolt on the pitman arm end of the drag link. Set the initial drag link
length at 41.85". Rotate the end to fit in the mounting hole of the pitman arm without changing
the position of the front wheels or the pitman arm.

4. Make sure the threads on the stud and stud nut are clean and not damaged and are free from all
foreign material on the taper, then install the drag link stud nut and tighten it to the specified
torque figure. Advance the nut to the next aligning slot and install a new cotter pin in the castle
nut. Under no circumstances may the nut be backed off in order to align the slot with the hole. If
the torque exceeds the maximum value when installing the cotter, remove the nut and install it
again, stopping at the lower torque limit before installing the cotter.
5. Tighten the clamp nut to the specified torque figure and test the adjustment. The front wheel
should turn from the right to left extremes without noticeable binding at the drag link ends.
168
Suspension
Steering Miter Box and Intermediate Shaft
Steering input is transferred from the steering column shaft to the TRW steering gear using a miter box
and an intermediate steering shaft (Figure 5-8). Refer to the Preventive Maintenance chapter for steering
system service intervals.
Miter Box
The TRW miter box on your coach is lubed for life with Dexron III. No routine maintenance is neces-
sary.
Intermediate Shaft Maintenance

The U-joints and slip shaft of the steering intermediate shaft need to be lubricated regularly. Apply
grease to the fittings on the two U-joints and on the shaft near the miter box end.
Grease Fitting
Steering Miter Box U-Joint

Slip Shaft Power Steering Gear
U-Joint
Drag Link
Pitman Arm
Steering
Intermediate Shaft
Figure 5-8, Steering Box Components
169
Suspension
Front End Alignment
The term “front alignment” refers to the angular relationships between the front wheels, the front sus-
pension attaching points, and the ground. The point-in (toe-in) of the front wheels, the tilt of the front
wheels (camber), and the tilt of the suspension members (caster) are all involved in front alignment. See
illustrations in the “Adjustments” section of the Meritor manual included with your bus. Proper front
alignment must be maintained to ensure ease of steering and to prolong tire life.
Regular service inspections should be performed to check toe-in, camber, and caster. These items should
be checked using the equipment recommended in the Meritor manual. Any variation from Meritor speci-
fications indicates a need for adjustment and/or a replacement of any bad parts.
Consult the Meritor Maintenance Manual No. 23- Bus and Coach Front
Axles before adjusting front-end alignment. Always use the most up-to-
date documentation, available at www.arvinmeritor.com/tech_library.
For technical support, call (800) 535-5560.
If the toe-in is changed, the drag link end clamp bolts must be loosened
and the drag link adjusted so that the steering gear sector shaft will not
be thrown off center.
Front wheel camber is not adjustable; it is manufactured into the axle. If

the camber angles are not within the limits given in the Meritor manual,
DO NOT bend the axle beam to correct the deviation. Bending will
weaken the axle and create a dangerous situation.
170
Suspension
Caster
Caster is the inclination of the kingpins toward the front or rear of the vehicle (see Figure 5-9). Caster is
described as “negative” when the kingpin is angled with its top closer than the bottom to the front of the
vehicle. A vehicle is said to have “positive” caster when the kingpin is angled with its bottom closer than
the top to the front of the vehicle. The coach axle beams have a +3 degree caster angle machined into
the beam.
Caster variations may be caused by a bent axle, worn
torque rod end bushings, or sagging of torque rod tower Positive Caster
assemblies. Precision gauges must be used to determine A
caster when the axle is on the coach.
Caster is adjusted by changing the length of the torque
rods. Loosen the upper rod end clamps and rotate the tube,
using a pipe wrench if necessary, to set the caster to 3
degrees. When the correct setting is obtained, tighten the
Forward
clamp nuts to the specified torque. When tightening the
clamp nuts you must:
1. Tighten the torque rod clamps at the nut end only.
2. Install the clamp within 1/4" from the end of the
torque rod tube.
Figure 5-9, Caster
Always adjust the torque rods as a pair, either upper or lower, and in
the same amount for each torque rod. If you are unable to adjust both
sides equally to 3 degrees, the axle is bent, torque rod end bushings are
worn, or rod tower assemblies are sagging.
Caster adjustment should be made using the upper pair of torque rods. If sufficient travel is not avail-
able in the upper pair, the lower pair and upper pair must be adjusted together to obtain the specified
caster setting. The lower pair of torque rods are adjusted by loosening the two bolts in the center clamp,
spreading the clamp with a chisel, and turning the clamp itself to obtain adjustment to the length of the
torque rod. When the correct setting is reached, tighten the clamp nuts to the specified torque.
When the axle is removed from the coach, the caster can be checked on a bench. Place two uniform
blocks on a level surface. Turn the axle upside down and rest the suspension support pads on the blocks.
Use a shop protractor to determine the caster angle. If this angle is ± .5 degrees off from 3 degrees, the
axle beam is twisted and must be replaced.
171
Suspension
Frame Angle
A factor which will affect the caster measurement is the frame angle (Figure 5-10). Frame angle should
be taken into account when determining the proper caster setting. The frame angle is negative (–) if the
slope is downward toward the front of the vehicle and positive (+) if the slope is upward. To determine
the frame angle:
1. Park the coach on a level surface.
2. Place a protractor with a level gauge against the bottom edge of a straight section of the frame
rail near the chassis midpoint.
3. Determine the angle at which the frame rail slopes from level.
Compute the actual caster setting (see previous section) to be used by combining (adding or subtracting)
the frame angle and caster measurement as follows:
1. Add NEGATIVE frame angle and POSITIVE caster.
2. Add POSITIVE frame angle and NEGATIVE caster.
3. Subtract NEGATIVE frame angle and NEGATIVE caster.
4. Subtract POSITIVE frame angle and POSITIVE caster.
Frame Rail
Protractor
Angle
Figure 5-10, Frame angle
172
Suspension
Turning Angle Adjustment
The stop bolt should not touch the axle beam when the steering gear is
providing power assist. The poppet valves in the steering gear should
be bypassing pressure before the stop bolt comes into contact with the
axle beam.
NEVER increase the vehicle’s maximum turn angle beyond 45

degrees.
The turning angle is the maximum angle through which the wheels may be turned from the straight
ahead position. This turning angle is greater for the inside wheel than for the outside wheel in a turn.
Before adjusting the turning angle, be sure the front end is properly aligned. Poppet valves at both ends
of the power steering gear, after being properly adjusted, automatically unload the hydraulic system to
protect the mechanism from undue strain and damage. Refer to the TRW documentation included with
your bus for steering gear adjustment procedures. The maximum turning angle, which is measured at
the inner wheel during a turn, is 45 degrees. Use an accurate turning angle instrument to make correct
angular measurements.
1. Turn the steering wheel to the left until the turning angle (as measured at the left wheel) reaches
45 degrees.
2. Loosen the jam nut and turn the stop bolt to just
contact the axle beam. Two-Piece Steering Stop Bolt
3. Tighten the jam nut to 65–85 lb-ft

(68–101 N-m).
AxLE
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the right steering BEAM
knuckle, this time turning the wheel to the right MAxIMUM

TURN
and measuring the turning angle at the right ANGLE STOP
SCREW
wheel. BOSS
5. Check to be sure that the poppet valves in the

0.125" (3mm)
steering gear automatically bypass hydraulic
pressure before the stop bolts contact the axle
2-PIECE STOP BOLT
beam (an easily audible sound will be heard STOP BOLT
from the steering gear when pressure bypass ASSEMBLy JAM NUT
occurs). There should be approximately 0.125"

Figure 5-11, Knuckle Stop Bolt Clearance
between the stop bolt and the axle beam when
the poppet valves relieve hydraulic pressure (see
Figure 5-11).
173
Suspension
Front Axle Troubleshooting
Whenever steering complaints are encountered it is important that the complete steering system be
inspected. The steering system consists of the power steering gear, the hydraulic pump, the reservoir,
the steering column, and the connecting steering linkage. The front axle and suspension system compo-
nents, as well as the front wheels and tires, must also be considered part of the overall steering system.
The steering gear and related hydraulic components are covered in the Hydraulic System chapter in this
manual.

Darting, wandering, and Hydraulic system problems See Hydraulic System chapter
oversteering Loose or worn front end parts Repair/replace as required
Incorrect caster Set caster properly
Steering column damage Check & repair as required
Steering column binding Check steering gear & mounting
for distortion or damage
Tight tie rod & drag link ends Check torque; replace as
necessary
Excessive backlash Worn steering column U-joint Replace U-joint
Hydraulic system problems See Hydraulic System chapter
Improperly adjusted drag link Adjust drag link
Loose or damaged steering gear Check steering gear bracket;
repair/replace as necessary
Bad output shaft pinion gear Replace pinion gear
Damaged output shaft splines Replace output shaft
Worn output shaft bushings Replace bushings & polish shaft
Worn pitman arm splines Replace worn parts
No attempt to return to Hydraulic system problems See Hydraulic System chapter
straight ahead from turns No positive caster Check and adjust caster
Steering column binding Check and repair U-joints and
support bearings
Linkage ball sockets binding Check and repair or replace
King pins seized or binding Check and repair or replace
Improper knuckle clearance Adjust clearance to specs
Steering input seizing or Power steering problems See Hydraulic System chapter
binding Worn steering column bearings Replace bearings
Worn steering column U-joint Check and replace as required
Lack of lubrication Lubricate properly
174
Suspension
Front Axle Troubleshooting (Continued)
Tires wear out quickly or have Tires out of balance or Balance and/or inflate tires
uneven wear improperly inflated. properly.
Incorrect toe-in setting Adjust toe-in to specs
Wrong steering arm geometry Service steering as necessary
Excessive wheel end play Readjust wheel bearings
Tie rod ends are worn Inadequate lubrication Follow lubrication schedule
Severe operating conditions Operate vehicle correctly; adjust
lubrication schedule
Damaged boot Replace boot
Bent/broken tie rod ball stud, Too much hydraulic pressure See Hydraulic System chapter
steering arm, or tie rod arm Improper coach operation Operate coach correctly
Worn or broken steering ball Drag link fasteners over torqued Tighten to specifications
stud Incorrect or inadequate Lubricate linkage correctly
lubrication
Power steering stops wrong See Hydraulic System chapter
Worn king pins or bushings Worn/missing seals and gaskets Replace seals and gaskets
Incorrect lubricant Lubricate with specified
lubricant
Axle not lubricated often enough Follow lubrication schedule
Operating conditions too severe Change lubrication schedule for
for lubrication schedule more frequent servicing
Vibration or shimmy of front Caster out of adjustment Adjust caster
axle during operation Tires/wheels out of balance Balance/replace tires/wheels
Worn shock absorbers Replace shock absorbers
Coach is hard to steer Hydraulic system problems See Hydraulic System chapter
Improper steering gear assembly Assemble steering gear properly
Steering linkage needs Lubricate steering linkage
lubrication
King pins binding Replace king pins / bushings
Incorrect steering arm geometry Service steering as necessary
Caster out of adjustment Adjust caster as necessary
Tie rod ends hard to move Replace tie rod ends
Worn thrust bearing Replace thrust bearing
175
Suspension
Steering Column
The left steering arm and the left and right tie rod arms are secured to the steering knuckles at one end
and to a drag link or tie rod at the other. The arms are retained with a key in the steering knuckle in the
fixed angular position necessary for proper steering.
Steering turning action is transferred by the upper and lower steering shafts, enclosed within the steering
column, directly to the input shaft of the steering gear.
The steering wheel is a three-spoke type, constructed of plastic resin over a steel framework. The horn
button is mounted in the center of the wheel. The steering column is adjustable in two directions—up
and down and fore and aft—by rotating the tilt lock lever counterclockwise to release it, adjusting the
column and wheel to the desired position, and then rotating the lever clockwise to again lock the column
and wheel into place.
The upper and lower shafts are connected by a universal joint. The lower shaft extends directly to the
steering gear input/worm shaft and is connected by a second U-joint, secured by a clamp bolt and nut.
The steering column is mounted to a reinforcement bracket which is bolted to the steering column sup-
port bracket in the dash assembly.
Steering Wheel Removal/Installation

Removal
1. Shut off the batteries at the main switch. Ensure the front wheels
are in the straight ahead position. Place a piece of tape on the
dash to mark the position of a spoke.
2. Press down on the horn button with the palm of the hand and
rotate the horn button in a counterclockwise direction to unlatch
it. Release the pressure slowly and note the relative positions of
the horn spring, contactor, and cap (Figure 5-12).
3. Remove the spring, contactor, and cap.
4. Remove the steering wheel nut and thrust washer.
5. Install a wheel puller and remove the steering wheel from the
hub.
Installation
1. Position steering wheel on steering column and match the previ-
ously marked spoke with the tape on the dash.
2. Install the thrust washer and large nut on the steering column
shaft. Tighten the nut to 45–55 ft-lb (60–75 N-m) torque.
3. Install the horn spring, contactor, and cap.
Figure 5-12, Horn Button
4. Install the horn button by pressing down on the horn button and
rotating it in the clockwise direction.
176
Suspension
7
1
3
2 9
5
8
3
40 6 10
41
14
39 13
42 11 3
12
4 4 3
16 1
17 19 20 15
21
20
18
31 19 23
33 30 24
36
25 47
48 28
29 32 34 35 43 49
37
27 25 38 44 45 46
26
1. Retaining Ring (2)‑Bowed 17. Support Bracket 35. Wedgelock

2. Lower Bearing Housing 18. Main Housing Assembly 36. Lock Bar
3. Bearing (4) 19. Pivot Screw (2) 37. Spring‑Wedgelock
4. Self‑Tapping Screw (4) 20. Travel Stop Pin (1 or 2) 38. Spring‑Lock Bar
5. Spring Retaining Rod 21. Stop Cover 39. Spring Cover‑Upper
6. Universal Joint Assembly 22. Self‑Tapping Screw 40. Spring Cover‑Lower
7. Spring (Extended) 23. Stop Screw 41. Spring R.H. (Extend) Green
8. Jacket Tube 26. Spring Cover Plate 42. Spring L.H. (Extend)
9. Retaining Ring 27. Actuator Housing/Bushing Asm 43. Hex Head Bolt
10. Wheel Tube/Sleeve Assembly 28. Spring‑Actuator Housing 44. Helical Spring Lock Washer
11. Retaining Ring 29. Lock Pin‑Telescope 45. Bracket‑Turn Signal
12. Bearing Spacer 30. Spring‑Anti ‑Rattle 46. Contact Brush Assembly
13. Retaining Ring 31. Pivot Pin 47. Turn Signal Housing Asm
14. Pipe Plug 32. Cam‑Actuator 48. Self‑Tapping Screw (2 or 4)
15. Retaining Ring 33. Tilt & Telescope Lever
16. Set Screw (2) 34. Plate‑Disengaging
Figure 5-13, Steering Column Parts
177
Suspension
Steering Column Removal/Disassembly
Removal
1. Remove the steering wheel as previously described.
2. Remove the bolt, nut, and washer securing the lower steering shaft yoke to the steering gear.
3. Remove the four bolts, washers, and nuts attaching the steering column to the steering column
mounting bracket.
4. Disconnect the electrical wire from the horn at the terminal joining the wire to the dash harness.
Mark the harness wire so it can be located when installing the column.
5. Remove the steering column from the coach.
Disassembly
All steering mechanisms are safety critical items. As such, it is imperative that the instructions in this
section are followed to the letter. Failure to observe the procedures and instructions set out in this section
may result in loss of steering. All callouts refer to Figure 5-13.
The TC34 assembly has components under spring tension. The “tilt” and
“telescoping” features should be in the “full up” position to minimize
spring tension before removal from vehicle and or disassembly. Wear
eye protection and use caution to prevent injury.
Use a suitable “wheel puller” to remove steering wheel.
To prevent injury, use extreme care when using flammable cleaning

solvents.
Do not allow the finish on the jacket tube outside diameter to be

scratched, nicked or dented during assembly and disassembly as the
finish is crucial to the telescoping action of the unit.
178
Suspension
1. Remove bolt (43), lock washer (44) and turn signal bracket (45) from turn signal housing (47).
Remove turn signal housing and contact brush assembly (46).
2. Remove tilt & telescope lever (33), screw (25), spring cover plate (26), four screws (48) or two
screws (48) and two screws (25), actuator housing (27), spring (28), actuator cam & pin assem-
bly with cam (32), lock pin (29), pivot pin (31) and spring (30).
3. Remove disengaging plate (34), lockbar (36), spring (38), wedge lock (35), and spring (37).
4. Detach springs (41 & 42) from main housing (18). Remove upper spring cover (39).
5. Remove four screws (4) from support bracket (17) and lower housing (2).
Be ready for the lower housing (2) and universal joint (6) assembly to
eject under spring (7) tension from the main housing assembly.
6. Remove retaining ring (1) from the lower end of universal joint (6) and lower housing (2) assem-
bly. Remove the universal Joint assembly (6) from lower bearing housing (2). Remove bearings
(3) from lower bearing housing only if the bearings are to be replaced. Suitable bearing puller
required. Remove plug (14) from end of splined u‑joint column if it is to be replaced. 3/16 inch
Allen wrench required.
7. Remove lower spring cover (40), springs (41 & 42) and spring retaining rod (5) from lower bear-
ing housing (2). Remove button head stop screw (23) and internal lock washer (24) from main
housing (18) assembly.
8. Push wheel tube (10) and jacket tube (8) assembly out through the lower end of main housing
(18) assembly.
If you disassemble the jacket tube and wheel tube assembly further, you
must replace the two bearings (3) and retaining ring (111) in the jacket
tube because of the press fit and anaerobic locking agent.
9. To remove the wheel tube and sleeve assembly (10) from jacket tube (8), remove retaining ring
(1) from top end of wheel tube and retaining ring (15) from jacket tube. Insert an 8 inch (20cm)
long, 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) diameter rod or tube into the splined sleeve end of wheel tube and press
out the wheel tube and bearing assembly while retaining the jacket tube. Do not scratch or nick
jacket tube finish.
10. Press the bearings (3) off of the wheel tube and splined sleeve assembly (10) using a suitable
tubular bearing removal tool and discard bearings. Remove retaining ring (11) from wheel tube
and discard.
11. If support bracket (17) is to be removed from main housing (18), first remove two self‑tapping
screws (22), stop cover (21), and the one or two travel stop pins (20), from main housing assem-
bly. Note the letters of the holes with stop pins as they are removed.
179
Suspension
12. Remove set screws (16) from the two support bracket (17) nuts. Turn the two pivot screws (19)
from main housing assembly. Remove support bracket from main housing assembly (18). You
must clean off the Loctite applied to the threads in the nuts that are a integral part of the support
bracket, the pivot screws and the set screws.
Applying heat to support bracket nuts with electric heat gun or 1000
watt hair dryer will facilitate removal of set screws and pivot screws that
were secured with Loctite at assembly. Using appropriate size thread
chasers on set screws, pivot screws and support bracket nuts, and a
suitable solvent will aid in removing Loctite applied at assembly.
Do not exceed 500ºF (260ºC) or the material hardness may be affected.

Further disassembly of the main housing should not be made as the components cannot be serviced
separately, and the collets and spring are staked into the housing. Replace damaged parts.
Assembly
1 . Assemble support bracket (17) into main housing (18) subassembly so that the support bracket
teeth are on the cam‑actuator (32) side of housing and the pivot screw holes are aligned. Turn the
two pivot screws (19) loosely into the assembly. Place a 1/2 inch dia. by 3 inch long bolt and nut
assembly between the support bracket flanges, close to the bracket nuts, as a tool to spread the
support bracket flanges. Begin backing the nut off of the 1/2 inch dia. bolt to spread the bracket
flange bosses against the main housing and to provide clearance for lower bearing housing (2)
when assembled into the support bracket. Remove pivot screws. Add lithium grease to taper
under pivot screw heads. Add Loctite RC680 to threads of pivot screws and two set screws (16).
Reassemble pivot screws into main housing and support bracket assembly. Torque the pivot
screw on the actuator cam side and then the other pivot screw to 50–60 in. lbs. (5.6–6.8 N-m).
Torque set screws (16) into bracket nuts to 15–25 in. lbs. (1.7–2.8 N-m).
Do not get grease on screw threads or Loctite on screw head.

2. Assemble retaining rings (13 & 11) onto wheel tube and splined sleeve assembly (10). Apply
Loctite RC680 evenly around wheel tube in the lower bearing support area and push new lower
bearing (3) onto wheel tube, and against retaining ring (11). Apply Loctite evenly around wheel
tube at the upper bearing support area, assemble bearing spacer (12) and push new upper bearing
(3) onto wheel tube until it clears upper retaining ring groove. Assemble bowed retaining ring
(1).
180
Suspension
3. Press the wheel tube, sleeve and bearings as assembled into the jacket tube (8) end that has the
counter bore and internal retaining ring groove until the upper bearing (3) is beyond the retain-
ing ring groove. A tubular bearing installer tool pressing against the upper bearing (3) outer race
is required. The split in the bearing spacer (12) must be aligned with the screw hole in the top
end of jacket tube to allow later assembly of bolt (43). Assemble retaining rings (9 & 15) in their
grooves on jacket tube.
4. To assemble the wheel tube and jacket tube assembly into the main housing assembly (18), place
jacket tube end down on a pedestal about 4 inches (101.6 mm) high x 2‑114 inches (57.2 mm)
diameter. Be sure cutouts of lower collet in main housing assembly (18) align with holes for lock
pin (29) and stop screw (23). Be sure ends of the spring in the housing are approximately 90
degrees from the splits in the collets. This will facilitate assembly of jacket tube in housing. As-
semble the main housing down over the jacket tube such that jacket tube will enter the housing
bore lower collet. As the upper end of the jacket approaches the upper tapered collet, the collet
must be pushed down with a screwdriver or a suitable tool that will pilot over the wheel tube and
into the housing bore. This will allow the jacket tube assembly to be pushed through the upper
collets.
5. Align the jacket tube guide slot with the stop screw hole in the main housing assembly (18) and
torque button head stop screw (23) and internal tooth lock washer (24) into stop screw hole to
15‑20 ft-lb (20.3–27.1 N-m).
6. Press in a new bearing (3) into each counter bore in lower
bearing housing (2) if the bearings were removed.
7. Assemble the lower serrated shaft of universal joint assembly (6) into lower bearing housing as-
sembly (2) until it is seated against a bearing (3). Assemble retaining ring (1) onto universal joint
shaft. Turn 1/8 inch pipe plug (14) finger tight into tapped hole in slotted end of u‑joint shaft.
Assemble spring retaining rod (5) into bearing housing (2).
If pipe plug is tightened such that the end of U-joint shaft is spread open,
the shaft may not assemble into spline sleeve as required.
8. Place the main housing assembly (18) as assembled, vertical in a soft‑jawed vise, clamping
firmly against the serrated end of wheel tube assembly (10). As an alternative the steering wheel
can be set on the wheel tube as a holding fixture and the unit set upside down on a bench for
these procedures. Push the wheel tube and jacket to full‑down position in the main housing. As-
semble spring (7) over lower end of wheel tube and splined sleeve assembly. Assemble universal
joint (6) splined shaft into the spring (7) and into splined sleeve so that a slot in the splined shaft
aligns with the wide flute in the mating splined sleeve. Two fingers in the lower u‑joint shaft
yoke will help guide the shaft into the splined sleeve. Push the universal joint assembly and
lower housing (2) into the main housing (18) assembly and align the screw holes in the support
bracket (17) with the holes in lower housing.
181
Suspension
9. While holding the u‑joint lower housing assembly in place, torque four self tapping screws (4)
into the support bracket (17) and lower housing (2) to 25–35 ft-lb (33.9–47.5 N-m).
To insure that the u‑joint splined shaft assembly does not eject from
the splined sleeve, it must be held in position until at least an upper and
lower screw are in place.
10. Lightly grease and assemble lock bar (36) onto main housing (18) with the locating pin up and
engaging the teeth with the support bracket (17) teeth. Assemble spring (38) on end of lock bar.
11. Lightly grease and assemble wedge lock (35) next to lock bar with tapered end toward the sup-
port bracket teeth and the locating pin up. Assemble spring (37) onto end of wedge lock.
12. Lightly grease and assemble disengaging plate (34) with the tabs up, over the lock bar (36) and
wedge lock (35) locating pins.
13. If disassembled, assemble lock pin (29) into actuator cam (32) with spring hole in cam and lock
pin facing each other, and press pivot pin (31) into its hole in the lock pin and actuator cam until
it is flush to .015 inches (.381 mm) below actuator cam. Insert end of spring (30) into hole in
lock pin, then the other end in actuator cam spring hole. Grease and insert lock pin assembly into
its bushing in main housing assembly (18) with actuator cam ears over disengaging plate (34)
raised tabs.
Use care that spring (30) does not eject from assembly.
14. Assemble spring (28) into top of lock pin and assemble actuator housing (27) over actuator and
pin assembly. Torque four attaching screws (48) to 40–60 in. lbs. (4.5–6.8 N-m) into actuator and
main housings, while holding actuator housing firmly down. Two screws (48) and two shorter
(5/8") screws (25) are used on some units.
15. Assemble spring cover plate (26) over springs (37 & 38) and firmly hold in position while turn-
ing in screw (25) into actuator housing (27). Torque screw to 40‑60 in. lbs. (4.5–6.8 N-m).
16. Assemble tilt & telescope lever (33) into actuator cam (32).
17. Tilt and telescope jacket and wheel tube assembly to “full up” position to facilitate spring assem-
bly. While looking down from steering wheel end of the assembly, hook the end of green, R.H.
coil spring (41) on the right side of spring retaining rod (5) and L.H. coil spring (42) on the left
side. Snap the lower spring cover (40) on the retaining rod between the springs. Assemble upper
spring cover (39) over the two springs engaging the lower cover in slot provided. Tilt jacket tube
and wheel tube assembly to full down position. Hook the loose end of springs in holes in main
housing using suitable spring assembly tool.
18. Assemble contact brush assembly (46) into turn signal housing (47) and assemble turn signal
housing over jacket tube (8) with horn wire outside the jacket.
182
Suspension
19. Attach turn signal bracket (45) to signal housing with bolt (43) and lock washer (44) finger
tight. The bolt must enter the split in bearing spacer (12). Bolt (43) must be torqued to 6‑10 ft-lb
(8.1–13.6 N-m) after steering wheel is installed and turn signal bowl is adjusted.
20. If removed, insert the one or two travel stop pins (20) in the lettered holes they were removed
from as noted at disassembly,
21. Attach stop cover (21) with two self‑tapping screws (22) torqued to 40–60 in. lbs. (4.5–6.8 N-m).
22. Push telescoping jacket tube and wheel tube assembly all the way in and turn the 1/8 inch pipe
plug (14) into the universal joint slotted shaft, enough to retain the jacket tube and wheel tube
position when the telescoping lockpin (29) is disengaged. Then loosen the 1/8 inch pipe plug just
enough to allow jacket tube and wheel tube assembly (about 1/8 turn) to telescope freely under
spring tension. You will need a 3/16 inch Allen T‑bar wrench of suitable diameter and length
[.375 inches (9.52 mm) diameter x 12 inches (304.8 mm) long] to reach the pipe plug down
through the wheel tube. When tilt and telescope lever (33) is held in the “up” position, the jacket
and wheel tube assembly must be able to telescope to “full up” and “full down” position. When
tilt lever is held in the “down” position, the jacket and wheel tube assembly must be able to tilt
to the “full up” and “full down” position. When the tilt lever is released, the tilt lever must return
to the lock position and maintain the telescope and tilt position of the jacket and wheel tube at
which the lever was released.
The tilt/telescoping column assembly is now complete except for a wheel nut (49) to be assembled at in-
stallation. The assembly should sit for 24 hours at room temperature before being put into normal use to
allow the applied Loctite to set up. Follow the vehicle manufacturer’s installation and alignment instruc-
tions.
Installation
1. Position the steering column in place in the dash area of the coach. Install the four bolts, wash-
ers, and nuts which attach the column to the mounting bracket under the dash. Tighten the nuts to
40–48 ft-lb (54–65 N-m) torque.
2. Install the lower column yoke on the input shaft of the miter box. Tighten the clamp bolt nut to
40–48 ft-lb (54–65 N-m) torque.
3. Attach the electrical wire for the horn to the free wire from the dash harness.
4. Install the steering wheel and horn control assembly as previously instructed in this manual.
183
Suspension
184
Suspension
Chapter 6– Air System
The compressed air system operates the service brakes, emergency/parking brakes, suspension system,
passenger door, and the driver’s seat. The windshield wipers and the wheelchair ramp are electrically
operated and require no compressed air.
The basic air system is composed of an air compressor, air governor, air dryer, air reservoir tanks, over-
pressure (relief), and check valves, and the tubing, hoses, and fittings necessary to connect all the com-
ponents.
Air System Operation

Refer to Figures 6-1 and 6-2. Air is supplied to the air compressor through the engine air cleaner. The air
compressor is gear driven by the engine and provides compressed air to the ping tank where the pulses
from the air compressor are absorbed, providing smoother and quieter operation. The air dryer removes
moisture from the compressed air. Accumulated moisture is regularly expelled from the air dryer onto
the ground beneath the coach and will account for the occasional air discharge heard. The compressed
air fills the air tanks. The air governor senses the air pressure in the wet tank and operates to maintain
pressure between 110 and 130 psi. When the wet tank pressure reaches 130 psi, the air governor turns
off the air compressor by supplying air pressure to the air compressor unloader system. When the wet
tank pressure drops to 110 psi, the air governor turns the air compressor back on.
The air dryer and the wet tank also have a relief valve to prevent overpressure should the air governor
fail. It is set to prevent pressure in excess of 150 psi. The air dryer desiccant cartridge should be checked
at least annually to ensure it remains serviceable. Servicing the desiccant cartridge should be attempted
only by qualified air system mechanics.
Dry air is delivered to the wet tank reservoir, and from there, compressed air is supplied to the other
three air reservoir tanks: the primary (green) tank, the secondary (red) tank, and the accessory tank. The
tanks are unpainted; the color designations refer to the pointer color on the air pressure gauge and the
color of the tubing connecting the elements of the primary and secondary braking systems.
Each reservoir has a check valve at the supply port to maintain pressure in that tank if other reservoirs
or air lines were to leak. Each tank is fitted with a standard manual drain valve and should be drained of
moisture, if any, on a daily basis.
Air from the primary and secondary tanks operates the brakes, and air from the accessory tank operates
the suspension system, the passenger door, and the driver’s seat.
185
Air System
When servicing air system components, the following general precautions
should be observed:
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brakes, and
always block the wheels.
2. Stop the engine when working around the vehicle.
3. Make certain to drain the air pressure from all reservoirs before
beginning any work on the vehicle.
4. Follow the “Welding Precautions” procedures given in the General
Information chapter of this manual to deactivate the electrical sys-
tem in a manner that removes all electrical power from the vehicle.
5. When working in the engine compartment the engine should be shut
off. Where circumstances require that the engine be in operation,
extreme caution should be used to prevent personal injury resulting
from contact with moving, rotating, leaking, heated, or electrically
charged components.
6. Never connect or disconnect a hose or line containing pressure; it
may whip. Never remove a component or plug unless you are certain
all system pressure has been depleted.
7. Never exceed recommended pressures and always wear safety
glasses.
8. Do not attempt to install, remove, disassemble or assemble a com-
ponent until you have read and thoroughly understand the recom-
mended procedures. Use only the proper tools and observe all pre-
cautions pertaining to use of those tools.
9. Use only Gillig approved replacement parts, components, and kits.
Replacement hardware, tubing, hose, fittings, etc. should be of equiv-
alent size, type, and strength as original equipment and be designed
specifically for such applications and systems.
10. Components with stripped threads or damaged parts should be re-
placed rather than repaired.
186
Air System
SPRING DUAL NEEDLE
SERV PORT AIR PRESSURE GAUGE
PARK LOW PRESSURE
PORT CONTROL SWITCHES
VALVE (PP-1)
STOP LIGHT
REG REG SWITCH FRT AXLE
EMERG
(SPRING BRK) DCV
RELAY VLV
ABS R-14 SCV
PMV SBM
SCV ABS
DRIVE AXLE PMV
SERVICE / SPRING SERVICE
BRAKE CHAMBERS RELAY VLV
R-12DC
ABS DCV
PMV BRAKE VALVE
PRIMARY (GREEN) TANK

REAR FRONT
SECONDARY (RED) TANK

VIEW VIEW
QRV
Figure 6-1, Air Supply and Brake System

DEL ABS
SUPPLY PORTS SUPPLY PMV
PORTS PORTS
PING ATC
WET TANK
VLV
187
TANK
HALDEX CONSEP (optional)
DRAIN PORT
ACCESSORY TANK
DCV's
AIR FILTER
AIR COMPRESSOR DRAIN STOP LIGHT SWITCH & 1 OF 3
PARKER (optional) VALVES STEER AXLE
RETARDER PRESSURE SWITCHES
COALESCING BRAKE CHAMBER
PRV
FILTER
(optional) FRT BRK
SOL VLV
PPV P A
GOVERNOR PPV
or PPV TOW
AIR E CONNECTION
SCV DRYER SCV
REAR SHOP AIR INLET VALVE
FILL CONNECTOR FILTER RR BRK FILTER
SOL VLV SCV
P A
E
FRONT SHOP
DOOR INTERLOCK AIR FILL CONNECTOR
NOTES: SOLENOID VALVES
1. NYLON TUBE COLOR CODE: 2. ABBREVIATIONS
GN GREEN PRIMARY SYSTEM/ REAR BRAKES PMV PRESSURE MODULATION VALVE SBM SPRING BRAKE MODULATION VALVE
RD RED SECONDARY SYSTEM/ FRONT BRAKES DCV DOUBLE CHECK VALVE QRV QUICK RELEASE VALVE
BN BROWN EMERGENCY/ PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM GOV AIR COMPRESSOR GOVERNOR REG AIR PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
YL YELLOW WET TANK PRESSURE SIGNAL/GOVERNOR PRV PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE TV TEST VALVE (TANK VALVE)
BK BLACK ACCESSORY AND MISC LINES SCV SINGLE CHECK VALVE PPV PRESSURE PROTECTION VALVE
Air System
Suspension Air System Operation
The major air components of the suspension system include the air springs and height control valves.
See Figures 6-1 and 6-2. The system operates automatically to maintain a constant ride height regardless
of load or load distribution.
The pressure in the air spring bellows is varied automatically by the height control valves in proportion
to the coach load. Three height control valves, one at the front axle and two at the rear axle, maintain the
constant ride height under all load conditions.
The accessory air tank supplies compressed air to the height control valves. A pressure protection valve
allows removal of air from the accessory air tank only if pressure in the accessory tank is greater than
65 psi (450 kPa). A check valve at the accessory tank prevents the loss of air back into the main system.
An air strainer is also installed in the line with the pressure protection valve. The height control valves
meter air into the air spring bellows as needed. The valves are actuated by the relative movement be-
tween the coach body and the axles.
Never get under the coach without first blocking the frame or placing
the coach over a pit. With the air springs deflated there is not enough
clearance under the coach body for a person. When blocking the
body, place blocks under the chassis frame rails near the axles to be
serviced. Refer to the “Jacking and Towing Instructions” in the General
Information chapter of this manual.
As the coach is loaded the body settles toward the axles. This movement operates the height control
valve and air is allowed into the air springs. Air pressure in the air springs increases enough to compen-
sate for the additional load, which keeps the coach body at normal ride height.
As passengers leave the coach, the height control valves allow air to exhaust from the air springs. The
air in the air springs is reduced by the valves in proportion to the weight debarking the coach, which,
again, keeps the coach body at normal ride level.
The height control valves are designed to operate only when the load in the coach is changed. They do
not respond to the rapid relative motion between the axle and body such as that motion caused by road
bumps.
188
Air System
Filter & SCV Front Shop Air Connection
Brake Valve
Valves Mounting Plate Includes:

- Spring Brake Valve SR-1
- Interlock Solenoids Bulkhead Plate Front Tow Connector
- Stop Light Switch Parking Brake
- Low Pressure Switches Valve (PP-1)
- Double Check Valves
Retarder Switches Front Suspension Kneeling
Valve (Mounted On Curb
Air Tank Drain Valves Side Front Wheel)
ABS PMV
Air Tank Mounting HCV
(See Detail)
ABS PMV
Front Brake Quick Release

Valve QR1 & DCV
FRONT
Secondary Tank Accessory Tank

(Red)
Primary Tank Wet Tank

(Green)
Detail
(Top View)
Air Tanks
(Ceiling Mounted)
HCV HCV
Air Bag (4x)
Air Dryer
Haldex Consep*
Ping Tank
Puraguard Filter*
ABS Electronic
Control Unit
Air Compressor Air Governor

Ping Tank Drain Valve
Rear Tow Connection*
Filter & SCV Rear Shop Air Fill
* If equipped
Figure 6-2, Location of Air System Components
189
Air System
Kneeling System Operation
The front suspension kneeling system allows the driver, when the bus is stopped, to override the air sus-
pension height control system and kneel (or lower) the front air suspension. Kneeling the bus reduces the
front step height and reduces the wheelchair ramp angle. Reducing the step height or ramp angle makes
access into the bus easier for handicapped passengers. The kneeling system allows lowering the front
suspension and holding it at the lowered height in any position from normal ride height to fully lowered.
To raise the bus back to normal ride height quickly, the kneeling system includes a fast fill feature. This
will raise the front suspension back from fully lowered to normal ride height in 2-5 seconds. If required
to facilitate the wheel chair ramp deployment, the kneeling system can also be used to over raise the
front suspension to provide a front suspension height above the normal ride height.
The KNEEL switch on the dash or driver’s console is a three position, self centering toggle switch.
When the driver holds the switch in the KNEEL position, the kneeling system will block the air flow
from the suspension height control valve and exhaust the air in the front suspension air bags. The kneel-
ing system will continue to exhaust the air pressure as long as the KNEEL switch is held in the KNEEL
position. When the driver stops holding the toggle switch in the KNEEL position, the switch is spring
loaded to return to the center (OFF) position. When the switch returns to the center position, the kneel-
ing system will stop exhausting air from the air bags, but the hold function will remain engaged to pre-
vent the air bags from re filling with air. This holds the bus in the kneeled or lowered position.
To return the bus to normal ride height, momentarily toggle the KNEEL switch to the RAISE position
(you do not need to hold the switch in that position). This turns on a timer which engages the fast fill
feature for 3-4 seconds. This fast fill feature delivers air directly from the accessory air tank to the front
suspension air bags, quickly raising the bus. After 3 seconds the fast fill feature is automatically turned
off as the bus nears normal ride height, and the hold feature is automatically turned off as well. This al-
lows the suspension height control valve to function. The suspension height control valve will make the
final height adjustment.
The over-raise feature is utilized by holding the KNEEL switch in the RAISE position. As long as the
KNEEL switch is held in the raise position, the fast fill feature will remain on, providing air directly
from the accessory air tank, and will keep the hold feature engaged, preventing the suspension height
control feature from trying to reduce the ride height back down the normal ride height. The over-raise
feature can only be used when the bus is stopped.
The Low Floor front suspension kneeling system consists of a kneeling valve module which contains
three air solenoid valves in the single module:
190
Air System
• Hold solenoid valve. When energized the hold solenoids block airflow from the height control
valve. This is necessary when kneeled to prevent the height control valve from refilling the suspen-
sion air bags.
• Kneel or exhaust solenoid. This solenoid, when energized, exhausts the air pressure in the suspen-
sion air bags, which lowers the front suspension.
• Raise or fast fill solenoid. This solenoid, when energized , will take air directly from the accessory
air tank and deliver air pressure to the air bags.
The raise solenoid is supplied by a large (1/2" dia) air line and is a high-flow-rate valve to quickly raise
the suspension back to normal ride height. A single check valve is placed in the raise solenoid air line to
prevent airflow back from the air bags into the air tank if the raise feature is engaged with low air tank
air pressure.
Solenoid Valve Coils
KNEELING
MODULE
HCV EXH AUX BAG
LH AIR BAGS Pressure Protection Valve Single Check

Mounted at Air Tank Valve
HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE SUPPLY LINE
FROM ACCESSORY AIR TANK
HIGH VOLUME KNEELING VALVE SUPPLY LINE

FROM ACCESSORY AIR TANK
RH AIR BAGS
HEIGHT CONTROL VALVE

(LEVELING VALVE)
Figure 6-3, Kneeling System Air Schematic
191
Air System
Door Control Operation
Entrance Door
The entrance door is opened and closed by an air operated door motor. The electrical Door Control
switch on the driver’s console activates a solenoid to operate the air system to drive the door motor.
Refer to the door air schematic in Figure 6-4. The door air is supplied by the accessory air tank. The
door motor consists of two opposing air cylinders. The small cylinder opens the door and the large cylin-
der closes the door. The open cylinder (small cylinder) is always pressurized.
For more detail on door operation and adjustment, refer to Chapter 11– Body and Interior.
Door Closing
To close the door, the driver operates the Door Control valve that activates the solenoid at the close
cylinder. The close cylinder (large cylinder) is pressurized at the same pressure as the open cylinder. The
larger area of the close piston overpowers the smaller open cylinder and closes the door. When the door
is closed, the close cylinder remains pressurized to hold the door closed tightly.
Door Opening
To open the door, the close cylinder is evacuated. At about 65 to 70% of the operating cycle, the air flow
is slowed to give a cushioning effect at the full open position of the door. The open cylinder remains
pressurized while the door is open.
Manual Opening
A manual door opening valve, located above the front door, will evacuate the air from both cylinders,
allowing the door to be manually pushed open.
Exit Door
The exit door is opened by an air cylinder and closed by a spring (Figure 6-4). When the driver operates
the Door Control valve to open the door, and a passenger presses the door touch bar, the solenoid at the
door motor opens and pressurizes the open cylinder. The cylinder overpowers the spring pressure and
the door opens.
To close the door, the air is evacuated from the cylinder and the spring closes the door.
Rear Door Open/Close Switch (Optional)

This switch, located on the driver’s console or on the dash, essentially bypasses the touch bar to allow
the rear door to be opened from the drivers seat.
192
Air System
Driver Leaving Vehicle
1. Driver opens the doors using the electrical door control.
2. Driver releases the DOOR AIR valve. This exhausts air from both sides of the door air motor.
3. Driver turns off the engine. Both solenoids are de-energized and the doors remain open as there
is no air to close the doors.
4. Driver exits the vehicle and turns the (optional) external door close valve which, for the rear
door is located behind the fuel fill door, and for front door is located in the front cap windshield
washer fill recess. This pressurizes the large (close) cylinder of the door motor, closing the doors.
Driver leaves the external valve in this position, holding the doors closed with air pressure.
Driver Entering Vehicle

1. Driver opens the (optional) external close valve. This exhausts pressure to the close side of door
motor.
2. Driver pulls doors open by hand.
3. Driver positions the DOOR AIR valve to NORMAL. This re-pressurizes the door air system al-
lowing the electrical door control to operate.
• If the engine is off, the doors will close.
• If the engine is running when the DOOR AIR valve re-pressurizes the door system, the doors
will go to the position at which the electrical control is set.
193
Air System
Solenoid
Entrance Door Motor
Manual Door
Open Close
Cylinder Cylinder Open Valve
Driver’s Door
Control Valve
Door Air
Supply Valve
(located on
Pressure Protection driver’s console)
Valve
Double Check
Valve
Accessory Air Tank
Exit Door Motor

(Optional) External
Open Solenoid
Close Spring Door Open Valve
Cylinder
(located at windshield
washer fill recess)
Figure 6-4, Door Control Air System
194
Air System
Air Compressor
Your Gillig Low Floor bus comes equipped with a Cummins 18.7 heavy-duty air compressor.
The manufacturer of this compressor has determined that it is not

rebuildable. Therefore, if service is required on this unit, contact your
Gillig Parts representative for a remanufactured compressor to install.
The air compressor is flange mounted to the NON-THROUGH DRIVE THROUGH DRIVE
engine and is coupling driven. Inlet air, oil lubri-
cation, and coolant is supplied from the engine.
Pneumatic pressure signals from the governor
control compression. An integrated pressure
relief valve protects the compressor and engine
if discharge or governor lines become blocked,
or if the compressor cannot unload. The valve
prevents the compressor from pumping above
250 psi in the event of a blocked discharge line
or other malfunction. The swept volume dis-
placement of this compressor is 18.7 cubic feet
per minute.
See Figure 6-5 to determine whether the air Figure 6-5, Cummins 18.7 Air Compressors
compressor is a through-drive or non-through-
drive version. The through-drive version is
required to run hydraulic power-steering pumps.
Description
The Cummins 18.7 air compressor provides and maintains air under pressure to operate devices in the
air brake and auxiliary air systems of the bus. It consists of two major subassemblies: the cylinder head
and the crankcase/cylinder block (see Figure 6-6).
The cylinder head contains the inlet, discharge, and unloader valving, as well as an integral relief valve.
There are two water ports, marked Port 9, an air discharge port, marked Port 2, and an inlet port, marked
Port 0. The cylinder head is mounted on the crankcase/cylinder block. The crankcase/cylinder block con-
tains the cylinder bore, piston, bearings, crankshaft, governor port, and connecting rod.
195
Air System
NON-THROUGH DRIVE THROUGH DRIVE
1 1
2 2
1 GOVERNOR PORT
Figure 6-7, Governor Port

1 CyLINDER HEAD
2 CRANKCASE (CyLINDER BLOCK)
Figure 6-6, Compressor Subassemblies
Operation
The compressor is driven by the engine and its crankshaft turns continuously while the engine is run-
ning. Compression of air is controlled by the governor and by the compressor’s unloading mechanism.
The governor maintains the brake system air pressure at preset maximum and minimum levels.
The governor is mounted apart from the compressor, either horizontally or vertically. The governor port
is located on the crankcase of the compressor (Figure 6-7).
The unloader mechanism controls the air compression cycle; an air compression cycle has three phases:
1. Induction: Air flows from the engine to the compressor, opening an inlet valve in the cylinder
head of the compressor.
2. Compression: Air pressure is increased, caus-
ing the compressor’s discharge valve to open. 1
3. Unloading: Air passes from the cylinder to
the inlet chamber of the cylinder head via a
port controlled by a sliding leaf valve. When
system cut-in pressure (110 psi) is reached, air
is exhausted from the unloader port.
After unloading, the unloader piston returns
the sliding leaf valve to the loaded position.
This seals the unloader ports and compression
resumes (Figure 6-8).
1 SLIDING LEAF VALVE
Figure 6-8, Sliding Leaf Valve
196
Air System
Maintenance
The Cummins 18.7 air compressor receives inlet air, oil and coolant from the engine, so it is important
to follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations and maintenance schedules regarding fluid levels,
air filter, and recommended change intervals.
Cylinder Head
Remove carbon deposits from the discharge cavity and rust and scale from the cooling passages of the
cylinder head. Clean carbon and dirt from the inlet and unloader passages. Shop air may be used to blow
the carbon and dirt deposits from the unloader passages.
Visual Inspection
A visual check of the compressor can detect minor problems. This check should be part of the vehicle
preventive maintenance program. See Figure 6-9 for visual inspection points.
197
Air System
2 2
NON-THROUGH DRIVE THROUGH DRIVE
1
4 4
1 Check water ports for leakage.

2 Check air inlet and discharge ports between compressor and the governor.
3 Check under plate or at power steering pump for leakage.
4 Check flanges for cracks or breaks.
Figure 6-9, Visual Inspection
198
Air System
Compressor Removal and Installation
• To prevent serious eye injury, always wear safe eye protection when
you perform vehicle maintenance or service.
• Remove all pressure from the air system before you disconnect any
component. Pressurized air can cause serious personal injury.
• Block the wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. Support the
vehicle with safety stands. Do not work under a vehicle supported
only by jacks. Jacks can slip and fall over. Serious personal injury
can result.
Compressor Removal
The front of the Cummins 18.7 air compressor is mounted to the engine. Before you remove the com-
pressor, make sure you have a replacement gasket to install with the new compressor. Call Cummins Inc.
for current part number. See Figure 6-10.
The removal instructions given in this manual are general.
Depending on the configuration of your bus, additional steps
may be required.
1. Set the spring (parking) brakes and block the wheels of
the vehicle.
2. Drain the air pressure from the air system.
3. Drain the engine cooling system and the cylinder head of
the compressor.
4. Disconnect all air and water lines leading to the compres-
sor.
5. Through-drive version air compressor only: If there is
Figure 6-10, Replacement Gasket
a power steering pump installed at the back of the com-
pressor, remove the power steering pump. Disconnect the
power steering pump. It is not necessary to remove pumps installed at the front of the compres-
sor. See Figure 6-11.
6. Remove the discharge and coolant fittings. Note fitting locations to aid in assembly.
7. Loosen the three flange mounting bolts that hold the compressor to the engine.
8. Remove the compressor from the vehicle. Remove and retain the oil supply tube that runs
between the compressor and the engine. See Figure 6-12.
199
Air System
1
Figure 6-11, Power Steering Pump
Compressor Installation 1 OIL SUPPLy TUBE

1. Reinstall the oil supply tube.
Figure 6-12, Oil Supply Tube
2. Install a new compressor gasket.
3. Position the compressor on the engine.
4. Install the three flange mounting bolts. Tighten to 15 lb-ft (20 N-m) +90° rotation.
5. Attach the discharge and coolant fittings. Tighten to 22 lb-ft (30 N-m) +360° maximum to posi-
tion fitting.
6. Connect all air and water and lines leading to the compressor. Tighten per Gillig specifications.
7. Through-drive version air compressor only: If necessary, reinstall the power steering pump.
Refer to the manufacturer’s maintenance manual to make sure the installation is to the proper
specifications.
8. Add engine coolant to the cooling system. Visually inspect the engine and compressor for leaks.
9. Start the engine and allow air system to build to governor cut-out (130 psi). Stop the engine. Use
a soap and water solution at connection points to check for air leaks. Make any necessary repairs.
10. Remove the wheel blocks and release the spring (parking) brakes.
200
Air System
Performance Testing
Test the vehicle air system as follows:
1. Bleed the vehicle air system reservoir gauges down (apply brakes several times) to approximate-
ly 85 psig.
2. With the engine running at full governed speed (no load, no air accessories being used), the com-
pressor should reach governor cut-out pressure (130 psi), then unload.
If the compressor does not reach governor cut-out pressure, check for air leaks in the system. If
reservoir volume and engine RPM are per original vehicle manufacturer’s specifications, system
plumbing leakage must be checked and, if necessary, repaired. See air system leakage test proce-
dures which follow.
If the compressor fails to unload, verify proper governor operation.
Air System Leakage Test

1. Park your bus on a level surface. Leave engine on.
2. Chock the wheels to prevent movement, then release the parking brake.
3. Build up air tank pressure to governor cut-out pressure (130 psi).
4. Turn engine off.
5. Let air pressure gauges stabilize for 1 minute. After 1 minute, time the pressure drop rate on the
gauges.
Pressure should not drop more than 2 psi per minute with the service brakes released.
Pressure should not drop more than 3 psi per minute with a 90 psi service application.
If pressure drop is excessive, make the necessary repairs.
Listen for air leaks. Soapy water or high frequency acoustic detectors may be used to detect air
leaks.
201
Air System
Troubleshooting
Use the following chart to troubleshoot the Cummins 18.7 air compressor. If you have any questions or
need additional information, please contact Cummins Inc. at (800) 343-7357 for assistance.
Condition Possible Cause Solution

Compressor passes Blocked or restricted oil Clean oil drain passages in the compressor and on the engine
excessive oil (for return surface. Verify proper passage alignment.
example, the presence of Contaminated inlet air Replace damaged, defective or dirty engine air filter. Repair any
oil at exhaust air brake or oil leaking, damaged or defective compressor air intake components.
system valves, oil in air Change engine lubricating oil.
dryer desiccant, etc.)
NOTE: To avoid this condition, make sure vehicle manufacturer’s
oil and filter maintenance schedules are followed.
Restricted air inlet Verify engine or compressor air cleaner is functioning properly.
or excessive vacuum Replace if necessary.
present at compressor Repair compressor air inlet kinks or excessive bends.
inlet
Check vehicle specifications to ensure air and coolant lines meet all
requirements.
Excessive engine Verify engine crankcase venting is to manufacturer’s specification.
crankcase pressure
Compressor duty cycle Check system for leaks. Make necessary repairs.
too high
None of the above, but Replace the compressor.
condition persists
Compressor leaks oil Physical damage or Replace the compressor.
internal problems with
compressor
Compressor Compressor unloader With compressor unloaded check for air leakage. If leaking,
continuously cycles piston leaking replace the cylinder head and perform troubleshooting procedures.
Governor air leak Refer to the manufacturer’s manual for governor maintenance.
Dryer purge valve air Check for air dryer malfunction. Refer to air dryer manufacturer’s
leakage service instructions.
Air leak at governor- Inspect connection for physical damage.
compressor attachment Inspect and repair connection.
Air leak at alcohol Clear line of any obstructions. Inspect and repair connection.
injector
Excessive reservoir Drain reservoirs.
contamination
condition persists
202
Air System
No air delivery Discharge line blockage Check for freeze up in the discharge line.
Low air delivery Check low spots and eliminate any traps in the discharge line.
Low air pressure Inspect and repair compressor discharge port and clear any line
restrictions. Replace damaged lines as necessary.
Check for carbon build-up. If carbon has built up, make sure
cooling lines are not kinked or restricted. If carbon has built up in
the discharge line, replace the line.
Inlet line kinked or Inspect the compressor air induction line for kinks and restrictions.
restricted Repair or replace as necessary.
Governor malfunction or Check for proper loader/unloader cycles of compressor. Refer
misadjustment to vehicle manufacturer’s manual for governor maintenance and
troubleshooting procedures.
External contamination Replace broken, defective or dirty air filters. Clean contaminants
from surface of compressor.
Air dryer purge valve Check for air dryer malfunction. Refer to air dryer manufacturer’s
stuck open or leaking service instructions.
Chafed or worn Replace faulty sections of discharge line.
discharge line
Loose or leaking air line Verify all connections are secure. Tighten to vehicle specifications
connections where necessary. Inspect port threads for damage. If damage is
extensive, replace cylinder head.
Damage to compressor Replace the compressor.
valves and/or valve seats
Leaking or Replace the compressor.
malfunctioning internal
pressure relief valve
Noisy air compressor Loose drive hub Check fit of drive coupling. Ensure hub is completely seated and
Loose accessory drive crankshaft nut is tight.
coupling Inspect crankshaft for damage.
Replace compressor if crankshaft is damaged.
condition persists
Broken connecting rod Oil starvation to crank Check oil pressure. Verify oil passage is free of obstructions. Make
or crankshaft pin or front main bearing necessary repairs.
Failed power steering Verify power steering pump is in proper operating order. Refer to
pump (through-drive the component manufacturer’s service instructions.
version only)
All of the above Replace compressor.
203
Air System
Compressor leaks Loose fitting Check fittings at compressor and engine for leaks and verify
engine coolant fittings are properly torqued.
Cracked coolant port Replace compressor.
Porosity in cylinder head Replace compressor.
Leaking of gasket Replace compressor.
internal to the cylinder
head
None of the above, but Replace compressor.
condition persists
Compressor pressurizes Leaking of gasket Replace compressor.
coolant system or internal to the cylinder
coolant leakage to head
compressor inlet Cavitation or corrosion Replace compressor.
in cylinder head
Porosity in cylinder head Replace compressor.
or cylinder head cracked
None of above, but Replace compressor.
condition persists
Unloader leakage Possible internal Replace compressor.
damage, including worn
or damaged unloader
piston O-ring, porosity
in unloader piston bore,
loose leaking seal at
unloader piston bore
Compressor head gasket Discharge line blocked Check for trap (low spots) in lines.
failure due to freezing or carbon Make necessary repairs. Clear discharge line. Replace line if
build-up necessary.
Check for carbon build-up. If carbon build-up is present, replace
the discharge line.
Frozen or blocked line to Clear blocked line. Replace line if necessary.
governor Check for air dryer malfunction. Repair or replace as required.
Refer to the air dryer manufacturer’s maintenance manual for
service information.
Governor malfunction Repair or replace the governor. Refer to governor manufacturer’s
maintenance manual for service information.
Improper cylinder head Inspect gasket. Replace if necessary. Verify all bolts are properly
bolt torque, machining torqued. If problem persists, replace cylinder head.
defect on cylinder head
or block, defective
cylinder head gasket
None of the above, but Replace compressor.
condition persists
204
Air System
Air Governor (Bendix D-2)
The governor, operating in conjunc- COVER ADJUSTING
tion with the air compressor unloading ADJUSTING
SCREW LOCKNUT
mechanism, automatically controls air SCREW
pressure in the air brake or air supply BODY
system between the predetermined RETAINING
RING PRESSURE SETTING
maximum and minimum pressures. SPRING
The air compressor runs continu-
ously while the engine runs, but actual UPPER SPRING GUIDE
compression of air into the vehicle air SPRING SEATS
system is controlled by the governor LOWER
EXHAUST STEM
SPRING
which stops or starts compression SPRING SEATS
when the maximum or minimum res-
ervoir pressures are reached. Refer to EXHAUST
STEM
Figure 6-13.
O-RINGS
Operation FILTERS
Reservoir air pressure enters the gov- INLET/EXHAUST

ernor at one of its reservoir ports and VALVE
acts on the piston and inlet/exhaust
valve. As the air pressure builds up, INLET/EXHAUST PISTON
the piston and valve move together VALVE SPRING
against the resistance of the pressure Figure 6-13, Air Governor
setting spring. When the reservoir air
pressure reaches the cut-out setting of
the governor (130 psi), the exhaust stem seats on the inlet/exhaust valve, closing the exhaust passage,
and then opens the inlet passage. Reservoir air pressure then flows around the inlet valve, through the
passage in the piston and out the unloader port to the compressor unloading mechanism. Air also flows
around the piston, which is slightly larger at the upper end. The added force resulting from this larger
area assures a positive action and fully opens the inlet valve. As the system reservoir air pressure drops
to the cut-in setting of the governor (110 psi), the force exerted by the air pressure on the piston will
be reduced so that the pressure setting spring will move the piston down. The inlet valve will close and
the exhaust will open. With the exhaust open, the air in the unloader line will escape back through the
piston, through the exhaust stem, and out the exhaust port.
Every 50,000 miles, 6 months, or 1,800 operating hours, perform the following tests:
205
Air System
Operating Tests
Start the engine and build up air pressure. Using a test or dash gauge known to be accurate, check the
pressure at the time the governor cuts out (this should be 130 ±5 psi).
With the engine still running, make a series of brake applications to reduce air pressure and observe at
what pressure the governor cut-in is reached (this should be 110 ±5 psi).
If the cut-in or cut-out settings are wrong, follow these instructions to adjust the governor:
1. Remove the governor’s top cover.
2. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut.
3. To raise the pressure setting, turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise. To lower the pressure
settings, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.
Each 1/4-turn of the governor adjusting screw raises or lowers the

pressure setting approximately 4 psi.
The pressure range between cut-in and cut-out is not adjustable.
4. When proper adjustment is obtained, tighten the adjusting screw locknut and replace the cover.
Leakage Tests
Leakage tests should be performed in both cut-in and cut-out positions.
Cut-In Position
Apply soap solution around the cover and the exhaust port. Slight bubble leakage permitted. Excessive
leakage indicates a faulty inlet valve or lower piston O-ring.
Cut-Out Position
Apply soap solution around the cover and the exhaust port. Slight bubble leakage permitted. Excessive
leakage indicates a faulty exhaust valve seat, exhaust stem O-ring, or O-ring at the top of the piston.
If the governor does not function as described or leakage is excessive,

Bendix recommends that it be replaced with a new or remanufactured
unit, or rebuilt with genuine Bendix parts (available through your Gillig
Parts representative).
Before rebuilding or repairing the air governor, read all warnings at the
beginning of this Air System chapter!
206
Air System
Air Governor Removal
1. Block and hold the vehicle by means other than the air brakes.
2. Drain the air system to zero psi.
3. Disconnect governor air lines.
4. Remove the governor mounting bolts, then the governor.
Air Governor Disassembly

Call-out numbers refer to Figure 6-14.
Make sure you have the correct Bendix maintenance kit available to
replace parts to be discarded during disassembly.
1. Clean the governor exterior of dirt and grease.
2. If the governor cover is marked “NONADJUSTABLE” and the adjusting screw has been sheared
off, this is a nonserviceable governor and must be replaced with a new or remanufactured unit.
3. If the governor has a blue, nonmetallic cover, hold governor with one hand and, with the other
hand, grip the cover from the top and pull up with thumb until cover disengages from the gov-
ernor body. If top cover on governor is made of rubber or clear nonmetallic material, unscrew it
until it releases from the adjusting screw (4) of governor. Remove cover O-ring (20) (if present).
4. With a pair of retaining ring pliers, remove the spring assembly retaining ring (1) and save.
5. Pull the adjusting screw (4) and spring assembly out of the governor body (2).
6. Gently tap the open end of the valve body on a flat surface 3
to remove the exhaust stem (5), the exhaust stem spring 4
(6), and piston assembly (11). 2
7. Remove and discard the two O-rings (8) on the piston 1
17
OD, and with a hooked wire, remove and discard the O-
ring (12) from the piston ID. On non-metallic piston, the 16 18
washer and retaining ring may be removed to facilitate
removal of the O-ring. 19
6
8. If the governor has a non-metallic piston, use a small

screwdriver and carefully insert the blade between two of 8 5
the ears of the retainer ring at the bottom of the piston (11) 12
and pry the retainer ring (15) out of the piston and discard.
Remove the inlet/exhaust valve spring (9) and the inlet/ex-
7
8
haust valve (10) and discard. If piston assembly is metal-
10
lic, disengage inlet/exhaust valve spring (9) from recess
in bottom of piston, remove inlet/exhaust valve spring (9) 9 11
and the inlet/exhaust valve (10) and discard. Figure 6-14, Air Governor
9. Remove and discard filters (7) from the unloader and res- Components
ervoir ports in the governor body.
207
Air System
Cleaning and Inspection
1. Clean all remaining parts in mineral spirits.
2. Inspect body for cracks or other damage. Be particularly careful that all air passages in the body,
exhaust stem, and piston are not obstructed.
3. Check springs for cracks, distortion, or corrosion.
4. Replace all worn or damaged parts.
Air Governor Assembly

Prior to assembly, lubricate the two lower body bores, all O-rings and O-ring grooves with the lubricant
provided. Also lubricate the spring guide and adjusting screw (if disassembled). Call-out numbers refer
to Figure 6-14.
1. Install O-ring (12) in piston (11). Replace washer (13) and retaining ring (14) on nonmetallic
piston (if removed during disassembly).
2. Drop the inlet/exhaust valve (10) into place at the bottom of the piston.
3. (Non-metallic piston only): Install the inlet/exhaust valve spring (9) with the small end against
the valve, place the retaining ring (15) on top of the large end of the valve spring (9) (with con-
cave side of retaining ring [15] facing away from the piston [11]), press into piston with thumb,
making sure ears of retaining ring (15) are seated into piston (11) as far as possible.
Do not use a press or hammer to install the retaining ring. Excessive

force may damage the piston.
3. Metallic piston only): Install the inlet/exhaust valve spring (9) with the small end against the
valve. Press the spring down until the larger coiled end snaps into the recess inside the piston
(11).
4. Install the piston O-rings (8) on the piston (11).
5. Install the exhaust stem spring (6) in the piston (11) with the large coil end next to the piston.
6. Install the exhaust stem (5) through spring (6) and into the piston (11).
7. Install the assembled piston (11) into the governor body (2).
8. If the spring assembly was not disassembled, proceed to Step 9. If the spring assembly was
disassembled, the following instructions apply: install on the adjusting screw in this order; lower
spring seat (19), spring guide (18), spring seat (19), pressure setting spring (17), hex-shaped up-
per spring seat (16). Screw the upper spring seat onto the adjusting screw until the distance from
the top of the seat to the bottom of the adjusting screw head is approximately 1-7/8". Install the
locknut (3).
9. Install the adjusting screw (4) and spring assembly into the governor body (2).
10. Install retaining ring (1), making certain that it seats completely into the groove in the governor
body (2).
208
Air System
11. If cover provided with rebuild kit is black rubber, install by pushing it onto the adjusting screw.
If provided cover is clear non-metallic, install O-ring (20) and screw cover onto the adjusting
screw. Tighten until cover bottoms on governor body. Note: O-ring (20) is used only on Hi-Temp
and waterproof governors.
12. Install filters (7) in governor body. The head of a pencil makes a good installation tool.
209
Air System
Air Reservoirs
The four air reservoirs are located in a ceiling
compartment in the front section of the coach.
There are two tanks, each partitioned into two SE
CO
ND
AR
separate reservoirs, providing four separate reser- Y
voirs. Figure 6-1 shows the air line connections to PR

the reservoirs.
IM AC
AR CE
Y SS
OR
Y
The air reservoirs also serve to cool the air and
condense water and oil vapors out of the com- WE
T
pressed air. Most of this condensation takes place
in the air dryer and the wet supply reservoir. All
reservoirs, however, should be drained daily. Drain
valves are located inside the battery compartment
door at the front, driver’s side of the coach (see
Figure 6-16). In most cases, a small spring-loaded
access door to the drain valves is provided. Drain
the reservoirs completely by slowly opening the
drain cock on each tank. Leave the drain cocks
open until the air is exhausted from the reservoir
and all drainage has stopped.
All reservoir mounting bolts should be checked for Figure 6-15, Air Tank Mounting
tightness during regular periodic inspection and
tightened as needed. The reservoirs
may be cleaned inside and out
using steam or hot water. Inspect
for corrosion or other damage and
replace any reservoir which is not
in good condition.
Figure 6-16, Air Tank Drain Valves
210
Air System
Valves and Pressure Switches
Safety Valve
The safety valve (Figure 6-17) is installed in the wet tank to prevent pressure
buildup in the tank beyond the set maximum. When the supply air pressure
builds up to a maximum of 150 psi the valve ball is forced off its seat and the
excess pressure is exhausted to the atmosphere. When the pressure is reduced
to below the set maximum the valve spring forces the ball back onto its seat
and pressure accumulation in the tank may continue.
Check the safety valve periodically for leaks by applying a soap solution to the
exhaust port. Leakage should not exceed a one inch bubble in five seconds.
The release pin should be moved to ensure the valve is free to function as
described.
Figure 6-17, Safety Valve
Low Air Pressure Switches

The low air pressure switches (Figure 6-18), mounted
under the driver’s platform, are safety devices that
automatically give a warning when pressure in the air
system falls below a safe limit for brake operation.
There are two switches, one for the primary air (rear
brakes) and one for the secondary air (front brakes).
The low air pressure switch is air actuated and operates
an electrical circuit, controlling an indicator light and
warning buzzer.
When air system pressure is above 90 psi, the switch
contacts open to break the circuit to the indicator light Figure 6-18, Air Pressure Switch
and buzzer. When air pressure drops below 70 - 66 psi
(483-455 kPa) the switch contacts close to energize the circuit to the indicator light and buzzer. Opera-
tion of the low air pressure switch may be checked by reducing system pressure and being sure that the
contacts close when reservoir pressure is between 70 and 66 psi (483-455 kPa). The contacts will be
closed when the indicator light and buzzer operate. (The 66 psi switch has a ± 4 psi variance).
211
Air System
Pressure Regulator
This adjustable valve (Figure 6-19) is used to limit air pressure delivered to
the brake interlock system to about 23 psi. This prevents damage to brake
components caused by repeated brake application by the interlock system
at full brake system pressure.
Figure 6-19, Pressure

Regulator
Pressure Protection Valves

Pressure protection valves (see Figure 6-20) are used to limit the
amount of air pressure taken from the air brake system to oper-
ate auxiliary devices. The pressure protection valves are mount-
ed on the accessory air tank delivery ports. They are used to
supply the air suspension, seat, and air-operated doors. If a leak
occurs in any of the systems supplied by the pressure protection
valves, the PPV will automatically block the flow to the leaking
accessory system when the pressure in the accessory tank drops
to around 70 psi. This will protect the brake system by maintain-
ing at least 70 psi in the primary and secondary air reservoirs.
Figure 6-20, Pressure
Protection Valve
212
Air System
Check Valves
Check valves are used in many locations throughout the air system. There are several types of check
valves; the photographs shown here do not necessarily look exactly like the units installed in your bus.
Single Check Valve

Single check valves are used to permit the flow of air in one direction only and prevent air flow in the re-
verse direction. Figure 6-21, Figure 6-22, Figure 6-23, and Figure 6-24 show typical single check valves.
An arrow indicating the direction of air flow is cast into the body of each valve.
Operation
Air flow in the normal direction moves the check ball or disc from
its seat, and the flow is unobstructed. Flow in the reverse direction
is prevented by the seating of the ball or disc, which is caused by a
drop in upstream air pressure and assisted by the spring.
Every 50,000 miles, 6 months, or 1,800 operating hours, disassem-
ble, clean, and inspect all parts.
Operation and Leakage Check

It may be easiest to simply remove the check valve from the vehicle
for testing. To test, apply air pressure to the outlet side of the check Figure 6-21, SC-3
valve. Coat the open end of the valve with soap suds. A 1" bubble in Single Check Valve
5 seconds is permissible.
Figure 6-22, Ball Type Figure 6-23, Disc Type (inte- Figure 6-24, Disc Type (replace-
Single Check Valve gral seat) Single Check Valve able seat) Single Check Valve
213
Air System
Double Check Valve Delivery Delivery
Double check valves are used to Supply
direct a flow of air into a com- Supply

mon line from either of two Supply
sources, whichever is at the

Supply
higher pressure. They may be
used for directing airflow for
specific functions or to select Delivery Delivery
the higher pressure of either of O-Ring

Shuttle
two sources of air as a supply Valve Cap Valve
source. See Figure 6-25 for ex- Disc
amples of double check valves. O-Ring
Operation
As air under pressure enters Cap
Body
Shuttle
Valve
Guide
either end of the double check Guide
Body
valve’s inlet port, the moving
shuttle or disc responds to the Figure 6-25, Typical Double Check Valves
pressure and seals the opposite
port, assuming that it is at a
lower pressure than the other. The air flow continues out the delivery port of the double check valve. The
position of the shuttle or disc will reverse if the pressure levels are reversed. Double check valves are
designed so that the shuttle or disc can never impede the backflow of air in the exhaust mode.
Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3,600 operating hours, disassemble, clean and inspect, and inspect
all parts.
Operating and Leakage Test

1. Install an accurate test gauge in the outlet port or in a line from the outlet port.
2. Apply and release air to one inlet port and note that gauge registers application and release.
3. Repeat by applying and releasing air to the other inlet port.
4. Disconnect line from one inlet port.
5. Apply air to other inlet port and coat opposite inlet port with a soap solution. Permissible leakage
is a 1" bubble in 5 seconds.
6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 with the other inlet ports.
214
Air System
Air Lines
Nylon tubing, stainless steel braided Teflon hoses and flexible hoses are used to connect the components
in the air system. Service the lines according to the following procedures.
Nylon Tubing
Nylon tubing is used for most air lines. It is flexible, durable, and weather resistant. If it becomes neces-
sary to replace an air line, use nylon tubing only where it was used before.
If a nylon line must be replaced, use an end fitting kit to make up a new air line assembly of the proper
length and diameter. Special tools are not required when assembling these air lines.
Braided Teflon Hoses

This type of hose is used where high temperatures must be withstood by the hose, especially in the
engine compartment. The hose connections should be checked at the same time and in the same manner
as the nylon tubing. Tighten or replace hoses and connections that are not in good condition. Any hose
assembly which is worn, chafed, or kinked, should be replaced.
Air Line Maintenance
To prevent a pressure loss from the air system that could affect operation
of the various air systems, use nylon air lines to replace existing nylon
air lines only. Do not route nylon lines where temperatures can exceed
200° F (93° C), since these temperatures can cause the lines to soften
and deteriorate.
1. Inspect air lines for cuts, swelling, kinks, deterioration, or damage.

2. Inspect for loose or missing retaining clips, ties, grommets, and supporting parts to prevent ex-
cess vibration which could loosen or damage connections.
3. Check that supports and brackets are in good condition and that clamps have not deteriorated.
4. Store hoses or tubing only in suitable protective containers. Brake components should be stored
in their original protective containers until time of installation.
5. Prevent dirt and foreign material from entering the hoses or tubes by leaving the shipping caps or
plugs in place until time of installation.
6. Be careful not to contaminate or damage brake hoses, tubing, or fittings during handling or in-
stallation.
7. Avoid kinking or twisting hoses and tubing during installation.
8. The air lines and related parts must be free of dirt and foreign matter.
9. The air lines should be secured in position and free from binding which could restrict air flow.
10. Be sure nylon lines are not too close to the exhaust system or other areas where the temperature
rises above 200° F (93° C).
215
Air System
11. While one end of a tube is being connected, the loose end should remain capped until its turn for
connection.
12. Tighten all fittings securely. Be sure elbows are installed at the proper angle and are aimed in the
correct direction. Be sure the air lines and fittings are sealed.
13. Cap tubing as it is removed to protect the system from dirt and foreign matter.
216
Air System
Brake System Operation
See Figure 6-1. The driver’s brake pedal controls the brake (foot) valve which directs primary reservoir
air to apply the rear brakes and secondary reservoir air to apply the front brakes. The spring brake (emer-
gency/parking) is pressurized to compress the spring (released position) by both primary and secondary
reservoir air to keep the spring brake disengaged.
A dual pointer air gauge, mounted in the driver’s dash, is connected to the two brake system reservoirs.
The red pointer indicates the pressure in the secondary tank and the green or white pointer indicates the
pressure in the primary tank.
If air pressure is lost in the secondary reservoir, the front brakes will be disabled but the rear brakes are
powerful enough to stop the bus. If air pressure is lost in the primary reservoir, the spring brake modula-
tor valve (SBM) will sense the front brake pressure and proportionally modulate the secondary air pres-
sure to the spring brake actuator, allowing the spring brake to apply the rear brakes to aid in stopping the
bus. This will only work for a few brake applications until the secondary reservoir air supply is depleted.
Brake Valves
Brake Valve (Bendix E-10)

The service brake application valve is floor-mounted in the driver compartment. It is a treadle operated
valve with two separate supply and delivery circuits, one
each for the primary and secondary braking circuits. The
valve is designed to provide graduated control for applying
and releasing the service brakes.
Operation
The callout numbers given in this section refer to Figure
6-26.
The #1 circuit is the portion of the valve between the spring
seat which contacts the plunger and the relay piston. The
#2 circuit is that portion between the relay piston and the
exhaust cavity.
The #1 circuit portion of the valve is similar in operation to
a standard single-circuit air brake valve, and under normal
operating conditions the #2 circuit portion is similar in op-
eration to a relay valve.
Both #1 and #2 circuit portions of the brake valve use a
common exhaust protected by an exhaust diaphragm.
Figure 6-26, Bendix E-10 Brake Valve
217
Air System
Applying: Normal Operation, #1 Circuit Portion
When the brake pedal is depressed, the plunger exerts force on the spring seat, graduating spring, and #1
piston. The #1 piston, which contains the exhaust valve seat, closes the #1 exhaust valve. As the exhaust
valve closes, the #1 inlet valve is moved off its seat allowing #1 air to flow out the #1 delivery port.
Applying: Normal Operation, #2 Circuit Portion

When the #1 inlet valve is moved off its seat, air is permitted to pass through the bleed passage and
enters the relay piston cavity. The air pressure moves the relay piston, which contains the exhaust seat
and closes the #2 exhaust valve. As the #2 exhaust valve closes, the #2 inlet valve is moved off its seat,
allowing the #2 air to flow out the #2 delivery port. Because of the small volume of air required to move
the relay piston, action of the #2 circuit portion of the valve is almost simultaneous with the #1 circuit
portion.
Applying: Loss of Air in the #2 Circuit

Should air be lost in the #2 circuit, the #1 circuit portion will continue to function as described above
under “Normal Operation: #1 Circuit Portion.”
Applying: Loss of Air in the #1 Circuit

Should air be lost in the #1 circuit, the function will be as follows: As the brake pedal is depressed and
no air pressure is present in the #1 circuit supply and delivery ports, the #1 piston will mechanically
move the relay piston, allowing the piston to close the #2 exhaust valve and open the #2 inlet valve, al-
lowing air to flow out the #2 delivery port.
Balanced: #1 Circuit Portion

When the #1 delivery pressure acting on the piston equals the mechanical force of the brake pedal ap-
plication, the #1 piston will move and the #1 inlet valve will close, stopping the further flow of air from
the #1 supply line through the valve. The exhaust valve remains closed, preventing any escape of air
through the exhaust port.
Balanced: #2 Circuit Portion

When the air pressure on the #2 side of the relay piston approaches that being delivered on the #1 side of
the relay piston, the relay piston moves, closing the #2 inlet valve and stopping further flow of air form
the supply line through the valve. The exhaust remains closed as the #2 delivery pressure balances the
#1 delivery pressure.
When applications in the graduating range are made, a balanced position in the #1 portion is reached
as the air pressure on the delivery side of the #1 piston equals the effort exerted by the driver’s foot on
the pedal. A balanced position in the #2 portion is reached when air pressure on the #2 side of the relay
piston closely approaches the air pressure on the #1 side of the relay piston.
When the brake pedal is fully depressed, both the #1 and #2 inlet valves remain open and full reservoir
pressure is delivered to the actuators.
218
Air System
Releasing: #1 Circuit Portion
With the brake pedal released, mechanical force is removed from the spring seat, graduating spring, and
#1 piston. Air pressure and spring load moves the #1 piston, opening the #1 exhaust valve, allowing air
pressure in the #1 delivery line to exhaust out the exhaust port.
Releasing: #2 Circuit Portion

With the brake treadle released, air is exhausted from the #1 circuit side of the relay piston. Air pressure
and spring load move the relay piston, opening the #2 exhaust valve and allowing air pressure in the #2
delivery line to exhaust out the exhaust port.
Every 25,000 miles, 3 months, or 900 operating hours:
(Note: See “Adjustable Floor Pedals” in the Engine chapter for brake treadle and brake plunger/plunger
seal maintenance if your bus is equipped with Teleflex adjustable pedals.)
1. Clean away accumulated dirt, gravel, or foreign material away from the heel of the treadle,
plunger boot, and mounting plate.
2. Using light oil, lubricate the treadle roller, roller pin, and hinge pin.
3. Check the rubber plunger boot for cracks, holes or deterioration and replace if necessary. Also,
check mounting plate and treadle for integrity.
4. Apply 2 to 4 drops of oil between the plunger and mounting plate. Do not over oil!
Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3,600 operating hours:
1. Disassemble and clean parts with mineral spirits, replace all rubber parts and any worn or dam-
aged parts. Check for proper operation before placing vehicle in service.
Operation and Leakage Checks

General
A change in vehicle braking characteristics or a low pressure warning may indicate a brake circuit mal-
function and, although a vehicle’s brake system may continue to function, the bus should not be operated
until the necessary repair have been made and both braking circuits are working properly. If the brake
valve does not function normally, Bendix recommends that it be replaced with a new or remanufactured
unit.
Always check the brake system for proper operation after performing
brake work and before returning the vehicle to service.
Operating Check
Check the delivery pressure of both the primary and secondary circuits, using test gauges known to be
accurate.
219
Air System
The pedal will not be in a “normal” position until the air brake system
is pressurized. The pedal will rise to its normal position as the brake
system air pressure builds up.
Depress the treadle to several positions between the fully released and fully applied positions and check
the delivered pressure on the test gauges to see that it varies equally and proportionately with the move-
ment of the brake pedal. After a full application is released, the reading on the test gauges should fall off
to zero promptly. The primary circuit delivery pressure will be about 2 psi greater than the secondary
circuit delivery pressure with both supply reservoirs at the same pressure. This is normal for this valve.
Leakage Check
Make and hold a high pressure application (80 psi). Coat the exhaust port and body of the brake valve
with a soap solution. Leakage permitted is a 1” bubble in 3 seconds in both the applied and released
positions. No leakage is permitted anywhere else.
Brake Valve Removal

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface and block the wheels and/or hold the vehicle by means other
than the air brakes.
2. Drain the air pressure from all air tanks.
3. Identify and mark or label all air lines and their respective connections on the brake valve to
facilitate ease of installation. Disconnect all air lines.
4. Remove the brake valve and treadle assembly from the bus by removing the three capscrews
on the outer bolt circle of the mounting plate. The basic brake valve alone can be removed by
removing the three capscrews on the inner bolt circle.
220
Air System
Brake Valve Disassembly
Refer to Figure 6-26 for callout number identification. Replacement parts and maintenance kits are avail-
able for the Bendix E-10 brake valve. Contact the Gillig Parts Department at (800) 735-1500.
1. If the entire brake valve and treadle assembly was removed from the vehicle, remove the three
capscrews securing the treadle assembly to the basic brake valve.
2. Remove the Phillips head screw (9) securing the exhaust diaphragm (10) and washer (11) to the
exhaust cover (12).
3. Remove the four screws that secure the exhaust cover (12) to the lower body.
4. Remove the #2 inlet and exhaust valve assembly (13) from the lower body.
5. Remove the four hex head capscrews securing the lower body to the upper body and separate the
body halves.
6. Remove the rubber seal ring (14) from the lower body.
7. While depressing spring seat (7), remove retaining ring (8). Remove spring seat and coil spring
(5).
8. Using a 3/8” wrench, hold the lock nut (16) on the threaded end of the stem (17) in the primary
piston (2). Insert a screwdriver in the exhaust passage through the center of the valve and engage
the slotted head of the stem.
9. Remove lock nut (16), spring seat (18), stem spring (19), primary piston (2), and primary piston
return spring (6). Remove O-ring (34).
The combined force of the #1 piston return spring, stem spring, and
relay piston spring is about 50 pounds. Take care when performing Step
10; Bendix recommends that the primary piston and relay piston be
mechanically contained while the nut and stem are being removed.
10. Remove adapter (1). Remove O-ring (4) from adapter.
221
Air System
Cleaning & Inspection
1. Using mineral spirits or an equivalent solvent, clean and thoroughly dry all metal parts.
2. Inspect all parts for excessive wear or deterioration.
3. Inspect the valve seats for nicks or burrs.
4. Check the springs for cracks or corrosion.
5. Replace all rubber parts and any part not found to be serviceable during inspection, using only
genuine Bendix replacement parts (available from your Gillig parts representative).
Brake Valve Assembly
All torque figures given in this section are assembly torques and
typically can be expected to fall off after assembly is finished. DO
NOT RETORQUE after initial assembly torques fall unless instructed
otherwise.
Refer to Figure 6-26 for callout number identification. Prior to assembly, using the special Bendix lubri-
cant (Gillig part #82-22889-000) provided with the rebuild kit, lightly coat all O-rings, O-ring grooves,
piston bores, and metal-to-metal moving surfaces.
1. Install the #1 inlet and exhaust assembly (33) in the upper body and replace the retaining ring
(32) to secure it. Be sure the retaining ring is seated completely in its groove.
2. Install the large (30) and small (31) O-rings on the relay piston.
3. Install the primary piston O-ring (28) in the piston O-ring groove.
222
Air System
Relay Valve (Bendix R-12DC)
The brake relay valve (Figure 6-27) receives air from the brake treadle valve and sends air (at the same
pressure and higher volume) to the rear service brake chambers. This speeds up the application and
release of the brakes.
Figure 6-27, R-12DC Brake Relay Valve
Operation
Application
Refer to Figure 6-28. Under normal conditions, the internal biased double check valve ensures that the
primary service signal controls the valve. Air pressure delivered to the primary service port enters the
small cavity above the piston and moves it down. The exhaust seat moves down with the piston and
seats on the inner or exhaust portion of the inlet/exhaust valve, sealing off the exhaust passage. At the
same time, the outer or inlet portion of the inlet/exhaust valve moves off its seat, permitting supply air
to flow from the res-
ervoir, past the open
inlet valve, and into the
service brake cham-
bers. In the event of
a loss of air pressure
in the primary service
line, the double check
valve mechanism in the
cover of the R-12DC
will move, shutting
off the primary service
line, and instead allow
the secondary service
line to apply the air
pressure needed to
operate the valve.
Figure 6-28, R-12DC Operation
223
Air System
Secondary service line may leak out of the primary service at control
pressures up to 20 psi when the primary signal is not present.
Balance
Refer to Figure 6-29. The air pressure delivered by the
open inlet valve is also effective on the bottom area of the
relay piston. When air pressure beneath the piston equals
the service air pressure above, the piston lifts slightly and
the inlet spring returns the inlet valve to its seat. The ex-
haust remains closed as the service line pressure balances
the delivery pressure. As delivered air pressure is changed,
the valve reacts instantly to that change, holding the brake
application at that level.
Exhaust or Release
See Figure 6-30. When air pressure is released from the
service port and air pressure in the cavity above the relay
piston is exhausted through the brake valve. At the same
time, air pressure beneath the piston lifts the relay piston Figure 6-29, R-12DC Balance Position
and the exhaust seat moves away from the exhaust valve,
opening the exhaust passage. With the exhaust passage
open, the air pressure in the brake chambers is then per-
mitted to exhaust through the exhaust port, releasing the
brakes.
Figure 6-30, R-12DC Exhaust Position
224
Air System
R-12DC Removal
1. Block and hold the vehicle in position by means other than the air brakes.
2. Drain air brake system reservoirs.
Do not attempt to remove the inlet/exhaust valve without first draining

the entire air system to zero psi.
3. If the entire valve is to be removed, mark the air lines to make reinstallation easier. Before disas-
sembling, remove as much contamination as possible from the valve’s exterior, taking care to
keep all contamination from entering the open ports.
4. Disconnect air lines from valve.
It is generally not necessary to remove the entire R-12DC valve in order

to service the inlet/exhaust valve. The inlet/exhaust valve can be removed
by removing the snap ring, exhaust cover assembly first, then the inlet
exhaust valve.
5. Remove valve mounting bolts and then the valve.
R-12DC Disassembly
Callout numbers in this section refer to Figure 6-31. Before disassembly, mark the location of the
mounting bracket to the cover and of the cover to the body.
The valve body may be lightly clamped in a bench vise during

disassembly. Overclamping may result in damage to the valve and cause
leakage and/or malfunctions. If a vise is to be used, position the valve so
that the jaws bear on the delivery and supply ports on opposing sides
of the valve’s body.
1. Remove the four capscrews securing the mounting bracket and cover to the body. Retain the
capscrews for reuse.
2. Discard the mounting bracket.
3. Remove and discard sealing ring (7) from the cover (1).
4. Remove the two Torx screws securing the double check cover (6) to the cover (1).
5. Remove the double check cover (6) from the cover (1) and remove and discard the spring (2),
guide (3), double check diaphragm (4) and O-ring (5).
6. Remove and discard the sealing ring (7) from the cover (1), and mounting bracket.
225
Air System
7. Remove piston (9) from the body (10) and retain for reuse.
8. Remove and discard the O-ring (8) from the piston (9).
9. Depress and hold the exhaust cover assembly (16) and remove and discard the retaining ring (17)
from the valve body (10).
10. Slowly release the holding force on the exhaust cover assembly (16) to relax the spring.
11. Remove and discard the following parts: Exhaust cover assembly (16), O-rings (14, 15), Spring
(13), Inlet exhaust valve (11) and Retainer (12).
Figure 6-31, R-12DC Exploded View
226
Air System
R-12DC Cleaning and Inspection
1. Wash all metal parts in mineral spirits and dry them thoroughly.
When servicing the R-12DC valve, all springs and rubber parts should
be replaced.
2. Inspect all metal parts for deterioration and wear, as evidenced by scratches, scoring, and corro-
sion.
3. Inspect the exhaust valve seat on the relay piston for nicks and scratches, which could cause
excessive leakage.
4. Inspect the inlet valve seat in the body for scratches and nicks.
5. Inspect the check valve seat in the R-12DC cover and make sure all internal air passages in this
area are open and clean and free of nicks and scratches.
6. Replace all parts not considered serviceable. Replace all rubber parts and springs. Contact your
Gillig parts representative at (800) 735-1500 to obtain any valve rebuild kits.
227
Air System
R-12DC Assembly
otherwise.
Bendix recommends that hand wrenches only be used for assembly.
Prior to assembly, lubricate all O-rings, O-ring bores, and any sliding surfaces with a silicon lubricant
equivalent to Dow Corning #10. Wash all remaining parts in mineral spirits and dry thoroughly.
1. Install O-rings (14, 15) in the exhaust cover assembly (16).
2. Instal O-ring (8) on piston (9).
3. Install sealing ring (7) on cover (1).
4. Install retainer (12) on inlet exhaust valve (11) and insert both in the body (10).
5. Install spring (13) in the body (10).
6. Install exhaust cover assembly (16) in the body (10). Depress and hold the exhaust cover assem-
bly in the body.
7. Install retaining ring (17) in the body (10). Make certain the retaining ring is completely seated
in the groove in the body.
8. Install piston (9) in body (10).
9. Install O-ring (5) on double check cover (6), install spring (2), guide (3) and double check dia-
phragm (4) in cover (1). Install cover (1) and torque Torx head screws to 80–100 in-lb.
10. Using the marks made during disassembly for alignment, install cover (1).
11. Install the mounting bracket on the cover (1).
12. Install the four capscrews in the cover (1) and torque to 80–100 in-lb.
13. Test the valve according to the operation and leakage tests detailed later in this section.
228
Air System
R-12DC Operation and Leakage Test
1. Chock the wheels, fully charge the air system, and adjust the brakes.
2. Make several brake applications and check for prompt application and release at each wheel.
R-12DC Preventive Maintenance

Every 25,000 miles, 3 months, or 900 operating hours, check for proper operation.
Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3,600 operating hours, disassemble and rebuild the valve.
R-12DC Installation
1. Clean air lines.
2. Inspect all lines and/or hoses for damage and replace as necessary.
3. Install valve and tighten mounting bolts
4. Connect air lines to valve (plug any unused ports).
5. Test the valve as outlined in the operation and leakage tests later in this section.
229
Air System
Brake Relay Valve (Bendix R-14)
The parking brake relay valve (Figure 6-32) re- Balance/quick Exhaust
Port (Anti-compound)
ceives air from the brake treadle valve and sends Exhaust
air (at the same pressure and higher volume) to the Cover
rear spring brake chambers. This speeds up the ap-

Exhaust
plication and release of the brakes. Seat
Operation
Application Diaphragm
Air pressure delivered to the service port enters the
small cavity above the piston and moves the piston Piston Relay
down. The exhaust seat moves down with the pis-

Inlet/Exhaust
ton and seats on the inner or exhaust portion of the Retaining Ring Valve Assembly
inlet/exhaust valve, sealing off the exhaust passage. Exhaust
At the same time, the outer or inlet portion of the Port
inlet/exhaust valve moves off its seat, permitting Figure 6-32, R-14 Relay Valve
supply air to flow from the reservoir, past the open
inlet valve, and into the brake chambers.
Balance
The air pressure being delivered by the open inlet valve is also effective on the bottom area of the relay
piston. When air pressure beneath the piston equals the service air pressure above, the piston lifts slight-
ly and the inlet spring returns the inlet valve to its seat. The exhaust remains closed as the service line
pressure balances the delivery pressure. As delivered air pressure is changed, the valve reacts instantly to
the change, holding the brake application at that level.
Exhaust or Release
When air pressure is released from the service port and air pressure in the cavity above the relay piston
is exhausted, air pressure beneath the piston lifts the relay piston and the exhaust seat moves away from
the exhaust valve, opening the exhaust passage. With the exhaust passage open, the air pressure in the
brake chambers is then permitted to exhaust through the exhaust port, releasing the brakes.
Anti-Compounding
The anti-compounding feature prevents strain on the brake components caused by application of the ser-
vice brakes while the parking brake is applied. To use this feature, the exhaust cover of the quick release
portion of the R-14 is removed and a line connected to the delivery of the R-12DC relay valve. With no
air pressure at the service port of the R-14, the parking brake is applied. If a service brake application is
made, air from the service brake valve enters the exhaust port of the R-14’s quick release and moves the
diaphragm, blocking the service port. Air then proceeds into the cavity above the relay piston, forces the
piston down, closing the exhaust and opening the inlet to deliver air to the spring brake cavity.
230
Air System
R-14 Preventive Maintenance
Every 25,000 miles, 3 months, or 900 operating hours, check for proper operation.
Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3,600 operating hours, disassemble and rebuild the valve.
R-14 Operational and Leakage Tests

1. Chock the wheels, fully charge the air system, and adjust the brakes.
2. Make several brake applications and check for prompt application and release at each wheel.
3. With the parking brake applied, check for inlet valve and O-ring leakage. Coat the exhaust port
and the area around the retaining ring with a soap solution. A 1" bubble in 3 seconds is permitted.
4. With the parking brake released, check for exhaust valve leakage. Coat the exhaust port with a
soap solution. Maximum permissible leakage is a 1" bubble in 3 seconds.
5. Coat the outside of the valve where the cover joins the body to check for seal ring leakage. No
leakage is permitted.
6. Disconnect the line from the balance port. Release the parking brake and coat the balance port
with a soap solution to check the diaphragm and its seat. Leakage equivalent to a 1" bubble in 3
seconds is permitted.
If the valve does not function properly or if leakage is excessive, Bendix recommends that it be replaced
or rebuilt.
R-14 Removal
1. Block and hold the vehicle in position by means other than the air brakes.
2. Drain air brake system reservoirs.
Do not attempt to remove the inlet/exhaust valve without first draining

the entire air system to zero psi.
3. If the entire valve is to be removed, mark the air lines to make reinstallation easier. Before disas-
sembling, remove as much contamination as possible from the valve’s exterior, taking care to
keep all contamination from entering the open ports.
It is generally not necessary to remove the entire R-14 valve in order

to service the inlet/exhaust valve. The inlet/exhaust valve insert can be
removed by removing the snap ring, exhaust cover assembly, and then
the inlet exhaust valve.
5. Remove valve mounting bolts and then the valve.
231
Air System
R-14 Disassembly
Before disassembling the R-14, mark the location of the mounting bracket to the cover and the cover to
the body.
1. Remove the 4 capscrews and lockwashers securing the cover to the body.
2. Remove the cover, sealing ring, and mounting bracket.
3. Remove the piston and O-ring from the body.
4. While depressing the exhaust cover, remove the retaining ring and slowly relax the spring be-
neath the exhaust cover.
5. Remove the exhaust cover assembly and O-rings.
6. Remove the inlet/exhaust valve return spring from the body.
7. Remove the inlet/exhaust valve from the body.
8. Remove the valve retainer from the inlet/exhaust valve.
9. Remove the Phillips head screw and exhaust cover from the R-14 cover.
10. Remove the service port cap nut and O-ring from the R-14.
11. Remove the diaphragm from the R-14 cover.
R-14 Cleaning and Inspection

1. Wash all metal parts in mineral spirits and dry them thoroughly.
When servicing the R-14 valve, all springs and rubber parts should be
replaced.
2. Inspect all metal parts for deterioration and wear, as evidenced by scratches, scoring, and corro-
sion.
3. Inspect the exhaust valve seat on the relay piston for nicks and scratches, which could cause
excessive leakage.
4. Inspect the inlet valve seat in the body for scratches and nicks.
5. Inspect the exhaust seat of the quick release diaphragm in the R-14 cover and make sure all inter-
nal air passages in this area are open, clean, and free of nicks and scratches.
6. Replace all parts not considered serviceable. Replace all rubber parts and springs. Contact your
Gillig parts representative at (800) 735-1500 to obtain any valve rebuild kits.
232
Air System
R-14 Assembly
otherwise.
Bendix recommends that hand wrenches only be used for assembly.
Prior to assembly, lubricate all O-rings, O-ring bores, and any sliding surfaces with a silicon lubricant
equivalent to Dow Corning #10.
1. Install large piston O-ring on piston.
2. Install inner and outer O-rings in the exhaust cover assembly.
3. Install the sealing ring on the cover.
4. Install piston in body, taking care not to damage the piston O-ring.
5. Noting the reference marks made during disassembly, install the cover on the valve body and the
mounting bracket on the cover.
6. Secure the mounting bracket and cover to the body using the 4 capscrews and lockwashers.
Torque to 80–120 in-lb.
7. Install the valve retainer on the inlet/exhaust valve and install in the body.
8. Install the inlet/exhaust valve return spring in the body.
9. Install the exhaust cover assembly in the body, taking care not to damage the O-ring.
10. While depressing the exhaust cover, install the retaining ring. Make certain the retainer is com-
pletely seated in its groove in the body.
11. Install the R-14 service port cap nut O-ring on the cap nut.
12. Install the diaphragm in the R-14 cover, making certain it is positioned between the guide ribs in
the cover.
13. Install the service port cap nut and torque to 150 in-lb.
14. Test the valves as outlined in the “Operational and Leakage Tests” section before returning the
R-14 to service.
233
Air System
R-14 Installation
1. Clean air lines.
2. Inspect all lines and/or hoses for damage and replace as necessary.
3. Install valve and tighten mounting bolts
4. Connect air lines to valve (plug any unused ports).
5. Test the valve as outlined in the operation and leakage tests earlier in this section.
234
Air System
Quick Release Valve (Bendix QR-1)
SUPPLY
The quick release valve (Figure 6-33) is used (FROM BRAKE VALVE)
in the air distribution system at the front
brakes. The purpose of this valve is to reduce
the time required to release the brakes by
hastening the exhaust of air pressure from
DELIVERY
the brake chambers. When a brake applica- (TO CHAMBER)
tion has been made and released, the exhaust
port of the quick release valve opens and
the air pressure from the brake chambers is
exhausted through the quick release exhaust
port rather than back through the brake ap-
EXHAUST
plication valve.
DIAPHRAGM
QR-1 Valve Operation
When a brake application is made, air pres-
sure enters the brake valve port. The dia- BODY
O-RING
phragm moves down, sealing the exhaust. At
the same time, air pressure forces the edges
of the diaphragm down and air flows out the
delivery port. When air pressure beneath
the diaphragm equals the pressure above the 20-500-32
diaphragm, the outer edge of the diaphragm
will seal against the body seat. The exhaust Figure 6-33, Quick Release Valve
port is still sealed by the center portion of the
diaphragm when the brake valve application
is released. The air pressure above the diaphragm is released back through the brake valve exhaust. Air
pressure beneath the diaphragm forces the diaphragm to rise, opening the exhaust and allowing the air in
the brake chambers to exit.
QR-1 Preventive Maintenance

Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3600 operating hours, disassemble the valve, wash metal parts in
mineral spirits and wipe rubber parts dry. Bendix recommends that all rubber parts and any components
showing wear or deterioration be replaced; contact your Gillig parts representative for valve rebuild kits.
QR-1 Operating and Leakage Tests

While holding a foot brake valve application, coat the exhaust port with soap solution. Leakage of a 1"
bubble in 3 seconds is permitted. Next, coat the body and cover with a soap solution. No leakage is per-
mitted between the cover and body.
235
Air System
QR-1 Removal
1. Block vehicle wheels and/or hold vehicle by means other than the air brakes.
2. Drain air system to zero psi.
4. Remove mounting bolts, then valve.
QR-1 Installation
1. Mount valve with exhaust port pointing down and securely tighten mounting bolts.
2. Connect air lines to valve (brake application line to top port, brake chamber line to side ports).
QR-1 Disassembly
1. Remove four screws.
2. Remove diaphragm and cover O-ring.
QR-1 Assembly
1. Install diaphragm.
2. Install O-ring in cover groove.
3. Install cover and tighten screws evenly to 30–60 in-lb.
4. Perform tests outlined in the “QR-1 Operating and Leakage Tests” section.
236
Air System
Spring Brake Valve (Bendix SR-1)
The SR-1 (see Figure 6-34) supplies a hold-off pressure to the spring brakes and, in the event of air pres-
sure loss in the primary air brake system, modulates the spring brakes.
SR-1 Valve Operation

Initial Air System Charge
Upon initial charge, air from the primary
and secondary air tanks flows through the
parking brake control valve and enters the
SR-1 supply port. Air entering this port
flows past inlet/exhaust valve B to the un-
derside of piston B and out the delivery port
of the SR-1 to the emergency air connection
at the spring brake actuator. Note that the
springs above piston B force it into contact
with inlet and exhaust valve B. In the posi-
tion shown (see Figure 6-35) the exhaust is
closed and the inlet is open. Figure 6-34, SR-1 Spring Brake Valve
Air flowing from the primary air tank only
enters the reservoir port of the SR-1. This air remains
under piston A as system air pressure builds. With
primary tank pressure below about 55 psi, the spring
above piston A forces it into contact with inlet/exhaust
valve A, causing the exhaust to seal and the inlet to
open.
With air system pressure above approximately 55 psi
in the primary and secondary air tanks, piston A has
moved against the force of the spring above it, allow-
ing the inlet of valve A to close and opening the hol-
low exhaust passage through piston A. Figure 6-35, Charging- Below 55 psi
Air Brake System Fully Charged

See Figure 6-36. When air pressure beneath piston
B is about 80 psi, piston B rises slightly, against the
force of the springs above it, allowing the inlet of
valve B to close. The exhaust of valve B remains
closed. The closing of the inlet portion of valve B
retains about 100 psi in the hold-off cavity of the
spring brake actuators while allowing full air system
pressure to build elsewhere in the system.
Brake Application- Air Tanks Fully Charged

Refer to Figure 6-37. When a service application Figure 6-36, System Fully Charged
237
Air System
is made by actuating the E-8 brake valve, air from
the #2 delivery circuit is sent from the E-8 to SR-1’s
control port and is stopped at the closed inlet of valve
A. No movement of the SR-1’s internal components
takes place. Air from the E-8’s #1 delivery circuit
actuates the service section of the spring brake actua-
tors.
Brake Application- Loss of Secondary Tank

See Figure 6-38. If the secondary air tank loses pres-
sure, the primary tank as well as the parking control
Figure 6-37, Normal Service Operation
valve (PP-1) will be protected by the double and
single check valves in the air system. A service ap-
plication of the dual air brake valve in this situation
results in little or no air being delivered from the #2
delivery circuit to the control port of the SR-1. No
movement of the SR-1’s internal components will
take place. Braking is assured because the primary
air tank is protected by a check valve and the #1 de-
livery circuit of the E-8 brake valve will apply the
service section of the spring brake actuators.
Brake Application- Loss of Primary Tank

Refer to Figure 6-39. If air pressure in the primary Figure 6-38, Service Application (Loss of
air tank falls below about 55 psi, the pressure Secondary Air Tank Pressure)
beneath piston A is insufficient to resist the spring
force above and piston A moves into contact with
valve A. Initial contact between piston A and valve
A closes the hollow exhaust passage of piston A.
Continued movement of the piston opens the inlet of
valve A.
The secondary air tank and the park control valve
(PP-1) are protected from pressure loss by the action
of the double check valve.
When a service application of the E-8 brake valve is
made, air delivered from the #2 delivery circuit of
the dual brake valve enters the SR-1 control port. Air
Figure 6-39, Service Application (Loss of
entering the control port moves past the inlet of valve
Primary Air Tank Pressure)
a and travels through a passage in the body to the un-
derside of piston B. Piston B moves up, opening the
exhaust of valve B. When the exhaust of valve B opens, air pressure trapped in the emergency section of
the spring brake actuator is allowed to escape, resulting in a brake application by the emergency section.
The amount of air pressure released from the spring brake is in proportion to the amount of air pressure
delivered to the control port of the SR-1 by the #2 delivery of the dual brake valve.
238
Air System
Operation-Parking
See Figure 6-40. If both the primary and secondary air
systems are intact and the park control valve (PP-1)
is placed in the “park” or exhaust position, the SR-1’s
supply of air pressure and the air pressure in the spring
brake actuator cavities is exhausted. The single check
valve in the SR-1 assists this exhausting of air pressure
from the spring brake by allowing the air below piston
B to flow back out the open exhaust of the park control
valve. When air pressure below piston B has dropped
sufficiently, piston B moves down, opening the inlet of Figure 6-40, Park Application
valve B, thus providing an additional exhaust passage
for air exhausting through the SR-1 from the spring brakes.
SR-1 Preventive Maintenance

Every 100,000 miles, 12 months, or 3600 operating hours, disassemble the SR-1 and clean all parts and
mineral spirits. Replace all rubber parts and any worn or damaged components. Contact your Gillig parts
representative at (800) 735-1500 for Bendix-approved rebuild kits or parts for this valve.
SR-1 Service Checks

Operation Check
First, block the vehicle and hold by means other than the vehicle brakes. Charge the air brake system to
governor cut-out pressure (130 ±5 psi).
1. Pull up on the park brake valve to apply the parking brake. Check to make sure that the spring
brake actuators apply promptly. In the delivery port of the SR-1 valve, install a test gauge known
to be accurate. Place the parking control valve in the “release” position (push down on it). Check
to see that the spring brake actuators release fully.
2. With the park brake control valve in the “release” position, note the gauge pressure reading.
It should read approximately 100 psi. If the pressure reading is incorrect, repair or replace the
SR‑1.
3. Place the park brake valve back in the “park” position. The gauge reading should immediately
drop to zero. A slow release of pressure may indicate faulty operation of the single check valve
(within the modulating valve).
4. Place the parking control valve in the “release” position. Completely drain the primary air tank.
Apply the foot brake (E-8) several times and note that the pressure reading on the gauge decreases each
time the foot brake is applied. After several applications, pressure on the gauge will drop to the point
where release of the spring brake actuators will no longer occur.
239
Air System
Leakage Check
With the air system fully charged and the parking brake valve in the “release” position, coat the exhaust
port and around the valve corner of the SR-1 with a soap solution. Slight leakage is permitted.
If the SR-1 does not function properly, or if leakage if excessive, Bendix recommends that you replace it
with a new or remanufactured valve. If this is not possible, the valve can be repaired using a rebuild kit
available from the Gillig Parts Dept at (800) 735-1500.SR-1 Removal
1. Before removing the SR-1, apply the parking brake and drain the vehicle air system.
2. Identify all air lines before disconnecting.
3. Remove the two mounting bolts and remove the valve.
SR-1 Disassembly
Callouts in this section refer to Figure 6-34.
1. Remove the socket head pipe plug (1).
2. Remove the check valve spring (2) and the check valve (4).
3. Remove the two Phillips head screws and remove the exhaust cover (5).
4. Separate the exhaust diaphragm (6) from the cover.
5. Remove the inlet and exhaust valve assembly (7).
6. Remove the inlet and exhaust valve cap nut (8) and separate the cap nut O-ring (9).
7. Remove the valve stop (10), valve spring (11), and inlet/exhaust valve (12).
8. Remove the four Phillips head screws and lockwashers that secure the cover to the body.
The cover is under a spring load and should be held while removing the
screws.
9. Remove the cover (13) and the three piston springs (14). Some SR-1 models have only one main
spring.
10. Remove the small piston (15) and the small and large O-rings (16).
11. Remove the large piston (17). Remove piston O-rings (18, 19).
SR-1 Cleaning and Inspection

1. Wash all metal parts in mineral spirits and dry.
2. Inspect all parts for excessive wear or deterioration.
3. Inspect the valve seats for nicks or burrs.
4. Check the springs for cracks or corrosion.
5. Replace all rubber parts and any unserviceable parts during inspection.
240
Air System
SR-1 Assembly
Callouts in this section refer to Figure 6-34.
Using the special Bendix-approved lubricant (Gillig part #82-22889-000),, lightly coat all O-rings, O-
ring grooves, and piston bores.
otherwise.
1. Assemble the check valve (4) and valve spring (2) and install in body.
2. Apply pipe sealant to the socket head pipe plug (1) and install in the body. Tighten to 130–170
in-lb torque.
3. Install inlet and exhaust valve assembly (7) in valve body.
4. Secure the exhaust cover (5) with two 10-24 Phillips screws and lockwashers. Tighten to 20–30
in-lb torque.
5. Install exhaust diaphragm (6) into the exhaust cover.
6. Place inlet exhaust valve (12) in body. Install the valve spring (11) and valve stop (10).
7. Install O-ring (9) on cap nut and install cap nut (8) in body. Tighten to 100–125 in-lb torque.
8. Install the small and large O-rings (16) on the small diameter piston (15) and install piston in
body.
9. Install large O-ring (18) and small O-ring (19) on the large diameter piston and install piston in
body.
10. Install the piston springs (14) in their respective pistons.
11. Secure the cover to the body using four 1/4"-20 Phillips head screws and lockwashers. Tighten to
50–80 in-lb torque.
241
Air System
Parking Brake Control Valve (Bendix PP-1)
The parking brake control valve is a Bendix PP-1 manually operable on-off air control valve with an ex-
haust function. Refer to the “Spring Brake Valve- Bendix SR-1" section of this chapter for a description
of parking brake air system operation.
PP-1 Preventive Maintenance

Every 50,000 miles, 6 months, or 1,800 operating hours, rebuild the 1
PP-1. 7
2
PP-1 Removal
9
Block and/or hold the vehicle by a means other than air brakes and 8
drain all air tanks to zero psi. Callouts refer to the numbers in Figure
6-41,
6
1. Drive the button roll-pin (1) out with a punch and remove the 4
button. 5
3
2. Unplumb the air connections, remove the panel mounting nut
(2), and remove the valve.
Figure 6-41, PP-1 Components
PP-1 Installation
1. Install valve in panel, securing with the panel mounting nut.
2. Reconnect the air lines.
3. Install the operating button. Secure with the roll pin (1).
PP-1 Disassembly
1. Remove the two capscrews (3) which retain the lower cover and remove the cover. Remove the
sealing ring (4).
2. Insert a small punch through the roll pin hole in the stem and remove the locknut (5) with a 7/16"
wrench.
3. Remove inlet/exhaust valve (6), plunger (7) and spring (8) (if any).
4. Remove O-ring (9) from plunger.
PP-1 Operating and Leakage Test

1. Connect a 120 psi air source to the supply port. An accurate test gauge should be tee’d into the
supply line and a means of controlling the supply pressure provided. A small volume with a
gauge should be connected to the delivery port.
2. With 120 psi supply pressure, the knob pulled up (exhaust position), leakage at the exhaust port
or the plunger stem should not exceed a 1" soap bubble in 5 seconds. There should be no leakage
between the upper and lower body.
3. Push the knob in (applied position). Leakage at the exhaust port or the plunger should not exceed
a 1" bubble in 3 seconds.
4. Reduce the supply pressure. At a pressure of 40 psi, the button should pop up automatically.
242
Air System
Brake Interlock Solenoid Valve
The brake interlock solenoid valves (see Figure 6-42) are three-way, electrically controlled, normally
closed valves which control service brake application for the interlock system. The brake interlock
solenoid valves for both the front and rear brakes can be found under the floor in the driver’s seat area.
When the interlock system engages the service brakes, the coil in the solenoid energizes causing the inlet
port to open and the exhaust port to close. A speed switch prevents interlock activation above 3 mph.
The coach operator must not use the interlock system to stop the bus.
Doing so may damage the brakes.
During normal vehicle operation the coil is de-energized and the service brakes are disengaged. When
the coil is energized, the inlet port is opened to the delivery port and the exhaust port is closed.
Gillig coaches have a four wheel interlock system. Adjust the interlock pressure regulator setting when
necessary to maintain a pressure setting of 23 ± 3 psi.
Brake interlock solenoid valves are not rebuildable; if one becomes defective, replace with a new unit.
Figure 6-42, Brake Interlock Solenoid Valve
243
Air System
Air Dryer (Bendix AD-9)
The function of the air dryer is to collect and remove air system contaminants in solid, liquid, and vapor
form before they enter the brake system. The air dryer provides clean, dry air to the components of the
brake and accessory systems. This increases the life of the system and reduces maintenance costs.
Regular Scheduled Maintenance

If moisture is present, the desiccant cartridge may require replacement. The following conditions can
also cause water accumulation and should be considered and corrected before replacing the desiccant.
• An outside air source has been used to charge the system, such as a tow vehicle or the shop air
system, and the air did not pass through the air dryer.
• Air usage is exceptionally high and not normal. This may be due to excessive accessory air de-
mands or leakage. Unusually high air requirements that do not allow the compressor to load and
unload (compressing and non-compressing cycle) in a normal fashion can cause moisture accumu-
lation. Check for high air system leakage.
• In areas where more than a 30° range of temperature fluctuation occurs in one day, small amounts
of water can accumulate in the air brake system due to condensation. Under these conditions, the
presence of small amounts of water should not be an indication that the dryer is not performing
properly.
Note also that a small amount of oil in the system may be nor-
mal and should not, in itself, be considered a reason to replace
the desiccant. An oil stained desiccant can function adequately.
1. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. Tighten to 25
ft-lb (35 N-m) torque.
2. Check the operation of the check valve in the end cover Thermostat
Cover
of the air dryer. Build the air system pressure to gov-
ernor cut-out and observe a test gauge installed in the
wet tank. A rapid loss of pressure could indicate a failed Heater Post
check valve. This can be confirmed by checking at

the purge valve exhaust. The purge valve will be open
when the governor cut-out pressure is reached. Allow
two minutes for completion of the purge cycle before
testing the check valve.
3. Check for excessive leakage at the purge valve by coat-
ing the exhaust with a soap solution while the compres-
sor is loaded (compressing air).
4. Check the operation of the safety valve by pulling the
exposed stem while the compressor is loaded (com-
pressing air). There must be an exhaust of air while the Boot Boot
stem is held and the valve should reseat when the stem
Connection for Power
is released. and Insulated Return
Figure 6-43, Thermostat Assembly
244
Air System
5. Check all lines and fittings leading to and from the air dryer for leakage and integrity.
6. Check the operation of the end cover heater and thermostat assembly during cold weather opera-
tion (Figure 6-43).
a. Electric Power to the Dryer: With the ignition “On” check for power at the dryer’s electrical
terminal with a voltmeter or light tester. The air dryer is a single terminal device, so check for
power between the terminal and the end cover or chassis frame. If there is no voltage, look
for a blown fuse, broken wires, or corrosion in the wiring harness.
b. Thermostat and Heater Operation: Turn off the ignition switch and cool the end cover assem-
bly to below 40° F (4° C). Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the electrical
terminal and the end cover. The resistance should be 2.0–4.0 ohms for a 12 volt, 60 watt end
cover and 4.0–7.0 ohms for a 24 volt, 120 watt end cover. Warm the end cover to over 90° F
(32° C) and check the resistance as above. The resistance should exceed 1,000 ohms. If the
resistance values are within the stated limits, the thermostat and heater are operating properly.
If the resistance values obtained are outside the stated limits, proceed to the next step.
c. Heater Element Inspection: With the ignition switch in the “Off” position, remove the
thermostat cover. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the metal end cover and
the heater post. For a 12 volt, 60 watt end cover, the resistance should be 2.0–2.8 ohms. For
a 24 volt, 120 watt end cover the resistance should be 4.0–4.6 ohms. If the heater resistance
value is outside these limits, a new or remanufactured end cover should be installed, since the
heater element is not serviceable. If the heater resistance value obtained is within the stated
values, the thermostat should be replaced. Check that a good ground path exists between the
air dryer end cover casting and the coach chassis. Correct the path if needed.
d. Reassembly. Reinstall the thermostat cover. Take special care to assure that the rubber spacer
and the gasket are correctly installed.
7. Rebuild the air dryer, including the desiccant kit, per the maintenance schedule in the Preventive
Maintenance chapter.
The desiccant change interval may vary from vehicle to vehicle. The
typical desiccant cartridge life is three years, although many will
perform for longer periods. In order to take maximum advantage of
desiccant life and assure that replacement is accomplished only when
necessary, it is important that the maintenance procedures above are
performed as scheduled.
245
Air System
Rebuilding the Air Dryer
If, after completing the checks above, it is determined that one or more of the components of the air
dryer requires replacement or maintenance, one or more rebuilding kits may be required. Remember to
use only genuine OEM parts when servicing the air dryer. For ease in servicing, it is recommended that
the air dryer be removed from the coach.
The available kits are:
1. Purge Valve Maintenance Kit: Contains all the parts necessary to rebuild only the purge valve.
2. End Cover Maintenance Kit: Contains the parts needed to rebuild the end cover and includes
the Purge Valve Kit (#1).
3. Major Maintenance: Contains all the parts needed to completely rebuild the air dryer, including
the desiccant cartridge and the End Cover Kit (#2) above.
4. Desiccant Cartridge Replacement Kit: Contains the parts necessary to change only the desic-
cant cartridge.
5. Remanufactured Desiccant Cartridge Replacement Kit: Contains the parts necessary to
change only the desiccant cartridge.
6. Thermostat Maintenance Kit: Contains the parts needed to rebuild the thermostat assembly.
Removal
1. Park the coach on a level surface and block the wheel to prevent movement when the air system
is depressurized. Drain all reservoirs of all air pressure.
2. Identify, tag, and disconnect the three air lines from the end cover and note the position of the
ports relative to the coach frame.
3. Pull the boot from the thermostat and heater cover and slide it onto the wire to expose the con-
nection. Remove the nut and disconnect the wire.
4. Loosen the two bolts securing the mounting straps on the back of the dryer and disengage the
mounting hook from the end cover.
Disassembly
1. Remove the eight 3/8" crown nuts, spring washers, special washers, and cap screws from the
flange of the air dryer and separate the end cover from the air dryer shell. Separate the desiccant
cartridge and sealing plate from the end cover. Remove and discard the three sealing rings. One
sealing ring is located in the groove on the sealing plate and the other two are in grooves in the
end cover.
2. Remove the 1/4" cap screw and lock washer from the bottom of the purge valve and remove the
diaphragm retainer, exhaust diaphragm, and purge valve. Discard the exhaust diaphragm and
purge valve. Remove the purge valve piston and discard the O-ring.
3. Remove and discard the check valve assembly in the recess at the delivery port of the end cover.
4. Remove the safety valve from the end cover only if it has been determined in the serviceability
checks that it requires replacement.
246
Air System
5. To remove the thermostat, refer to that section later in this manual. Remove the thermostat only
if the serviceability checks indicate the need for replacement.
6. Remove the exhaust piston and spring from the top side of the end cover.
7. Remove and discard the O-ring from the exhaust piston.
8. Remove the four 1/4" cap screws and lockwashers that secure the sealing plate to the desiccant
cartridge. Separate the sealing plate from the desiccant cartridge and discard the sealing ring
found at the base of the cartridge.
Mounting Strap
Cap Screw
5/16 x 4-1/2" Nylock Sealing Ring
Nut
Bracket Sealing
Plate
Mounting Bracket
Hook
Check Valve
Assy
Air Dryer Housing
(8) Sealing Rings
Crown Nut Purge Piston
(8) O-Ring
Spring Spring
Washer
Control Port
Supply Port
Delivery Port
Heater Voltage
Desiccant Cartridge
Thermostat
Assy Purge Valve
Capscrew & Lockwasher

Exhaust Cover
Sealing Ring
SEMS Screw
Figure 6-44, Air Dryer Components
Cleaning and Inspection

1. Prior to assembly, wash all metal parts thoroughly using a quality commercial solvent, such as
mineral spirits.
2. Inspect all parts for wear or damage and replace any parts which fail the visual inspection.
247
Air System
Assembly
1. Place purge valve spring into cavity in the center of the top side of the end cover.
2. Lubricate the piston O-ring with a barium base lubricant and install the O-ring on the purge valve
piston and place the piston inside the spring installed in Step 1.
3. Turn the cover over on a flat, clean surface (Make sure the purge valve piston and spring remain
in position). Compress the spring by pushing down on the cover and align the square shank of
the purge valve piston into the mating hole in the end cover.
4. Place the washer, diaphragm retainer, diaphragm, and purge valve onto the purge valve cap
screw. Install the purge valve cap screw with the parts on it into the exhaust valve cover and
tighten the screw to 30–40 in lb (3.4–4.5 N-m) torque.
5. Install the safety valve, if removed, and tighten it to 10–35 ft-lb (15–45 N-m) torque, making
sure that the exhaust hole is pointed downward when the dryer in installed.
6. Install the thermostat, if removed. Refer to installation instruction later in this chapter.
7. Place a sealing ring on the bottom of the desiccant cartridge. Attach the cartridge to the plate
(smooth side of the plate opposite the cartridge) with four 1/4" socket head cap screws and lock-
washers. Tighten the capscrews to 7–10 ft-lb (10–15 N-m) torque.
8. Lubricate and install the two sealing rings in the recesses of the end cover. Use a barium base
lubricant.
9. Install the check valve assembly into the end cover, making sure the holes in the metal stamping
are facing up and the tang on the check valve assembly fits into the mating recess in the cover.
10. Place the desiccant cartridge and sealing plate assembly onto the cover, taking care not to dis-
place the sealing rings. The large hole in the sealing plate must line up with the check valve and
the spiral pins in the sealing plate must enter the corresponding holes in the end cover.
11. Lubricate the outer sealing ring with the barium base lubricant and install it on the sealing plate.
Place the housing of the air dryer over the desiccant cartridge, lining up the marks made on the
end cover prior to disassembly, and retain the housing with the eight 3/8" hex head bolts, spe-
cial washers, and crown nuts. Tighten the nuts to 25–30 ft-lb (30–40 N-m) torque. If these bolts
require replacement, ensure the replacements are at least Grade 5, as inferior grade bolts can
compromise the integrity of the air dryer and lead to premature failure.
12. Install the assembled air dryer unit on the coach by sliding it into the mounting brackets until the
mounting bracket hook catches under the lip of the cover. Tighten the mounting bolts to 6–8 ft-lb
(8–11 N-m) torque.
13. Reconnect the three air lines to the proper port as identified prior to disassembly. Reconnect the
heater wire and place the boot in position to protect the connection from the elements by forcing
the boot over the knob on the plastic cover.
14. Test the rebuilt air dryer as outlined in the Preventive Maintenance and Serviceability Checks in
the preceding section of this chapter.
248
Air System
Thermostat Disassembly
1. Remove nut, then the lock washer, plain washer, nut, and O-rings. Discard the O-ring and keep
the other parts.
2. Remove and retain the four Phillips head screws and the cover.
3. Remove and discard the gasket.
4. Remove and retain the spacer.
5. Cut the uninsulated thermostat wire at Point “B”, and then remove and discard the thermostat
and terminal assembly.
6. Clean the remaining wire attached to the heater terminal.
7. Clean the thermostat “pocket” in the end cover.
Thermostat Assembly
1. Cut the uninsulated wire lead of the new thermostat at Point “A”.
2. Install the thermostat in the “pocket” in the end cover and position the uninsulated leads next to
each other.
3. Use a soldering heat sink, clamp the uninsulated leads at Point “B” and solder the leads with
straight rosin core solder. Do not use acid core, as corrosion can result. Clean the excess solder
off the end cover.
4. Install the thermostat in the end cover.
5. Install the O-ring, washer, and nut. Tighten the nut to 20–30 in lb (2.3–3.4 N-m) torque. Install
the lock washer and nut finger tight to allow for reconnection of the electrical wire when rein-
stalled on the coach.
6. Install the spacer over the thermostat.
7. Install the gasket and thermostat cover and secure the cover to the dryer end cover using screws
and lockwashers. Tighten the capscrews to 30–40 in lb (3.4–4.5 N-m) torque.
8. Test the thermostat.
a. At a temperature above 90° F (32° C), check the resistance between the thermostat terminal
and the end cover. The resistance should exceed 1,000 ohms. If not, check for a solder “path”
short.
b. Chill the entire end cover assembly to 40° F (4° C) or below and check the resistance again.
The resistance should be 2.0–4.0 ohms for the 12 volt, 60 watt end cover and 4.0–7.0 ohms
for the 24 volt, 120 watt end cover. The pressure protection valve should return sufficient air
in this system to provide for operation of those components.
9. With the spring brakes released, refill the air system to governor cut-out pressure.
10. With the engine running drain the primary air tank to 0 psi. Test for proper operation of the vis-
ible and audible low air warning devices in the primary circuit and shut off engine.
249
Air System
11. Test operation of the emergency stopping with the loss of primary air. Proper operation of this
system should result in the application of the front service brake and a controlled or modulated
application of the rear spring brakes.
12. With the spring brakes released refill the air system to governor cut-out pressure.
13. Check for the application of the front and rear service brakes and for the loss of throttle control
with the activation of all circuits that provide for brake interlock.
Air Dryer Troubleshooting

Problem #1: A. Excessive system leakage Test for excessive leakage and repair.
Dryer is constantly B. Leakage in lines connecting Test for leaks at fittings or valves and repair or replace.
cycling or purging. compressor, dryer, and wet tank
C. Defective check valve in dryer Test check valve with soap solution. Leakage should
not exceed 1" bubble in 5 seconds. Repair or replace
valve if necessary.
D. Defective air governor Test governor for proper cut-in and cut-out pressures
and leakage.
E. Leaking purge valve in dryer Remove end cover and apply 120 psi at control port.
Allowable bubble is 1" in 5 seconds. Repair or replace
if necessary.
F. Compressor unloader leaking With compressor unloaded, check for leakage.
Problem #2: A. Desiccant needs replacing Replace desiccant cartridge.
Water in air tanks. B. Improper discharge line length or Minimum 6' of metal line between compressor
material discharge and dryer supply port.
C. Air system charges from outside Outside air should pass through dryer. Practice should
source be minimized.
D. Air dryer not purging See Problem #5, later in this section.
E. Purge time insufficient due to See Problem #1, earlier in this section.
excessive leakage
F. Dryer application requires If compressor loaded more than 90 seconds in normal
additional purge volume use, extra volume may be needed. Call Gillig Field
Service before proceeding.
G. Improper dryer application Dryer needs min. 30 sec. purge time. If load time is
90+ sec., extra purge volume needed. If load is 120+
sec., dryer efficiency decreases.
Problem #3: A. Desiccant cartridge plugged or Check for excessive oil and compressor installation.
Safety valve “popping saturated Repair/replace/rebuild as necessary.
off” or exhausting air. B. Defective check valve Test check valve and repair/replace as necessary.
C. Defective lines between air dryer Check if air reaching wet tank. Check lines and fittings
and wet tank for restrictions. Repair or replace if necessary.
250
Air System
Problem #4: A. Purge valve leaking With loaded compressor, check for leakage with soap
Constant exhaust at solution. Repair or replace purge valve.
dryer purge valve or B. Defective air governor Test governor for proper cut-in/cut-out settings and
unable to build system leakage.
pressure. C. Purge control line connected Purge control line must be connected to
to reservoir or exhaust port of unloader port of governor.
governor
D. Purge valve frozen open; faulty Test heater.
heater/thermostat wiring or
blown fuse
E. Inlet/outlet connections reversed Reverse connections immediately.
F. Defective check valve between Test valve for proper operation. See Problem #3,
dryer and wet tank Remedy B.
G. Kinked or blocked discharge line Ensure air passes through discharge line. Check for
kinds, bends, or carbon deposits.
H. Excessive bends in discharge Line should slope constantly from compressor to dryer
line, allowing water to collect with as few bends as possible.
and freeze
I. Excessive system leakage See Problem #1.
Problem #5: A. Broken, kinked, frozen, plugged, Ensure airflow through purge control line when
Air dryer does not or disconnected purge control compressor loaded. Check for undrilled fittings. See
purge or exhaust air. line Problem #4, Remedy C.
B. Faulty dryer purge valve Ensure air to purge valve (see Remedy A, above).
Repair purge valve if defective.
C. See Problem #4, Remedies B, E, Refer to Problem #4, Remedies B, E, F, G, H
F, G, H
Problem #6: A. This symptom is almost always See appropriate Problems & Remedies.
Desiccant material accompanied by one or more of
expelled from dryer Problems #1, #2, #3, #4, or #5.
purge valve exhaust B. Dryer not securely mounted; Vibration should be minimized. Add support or change
(may look like whitish excessive vibration mounting.
liquid or paste or small C. Defective cloth-covered Replace cartridge.
beads). perforated plate in cartridge or
improperly rebuilt cartridge.
D. Compressor passing excessive oil Check for proper compressor installation.
Repair or replace as needed.
E. Faulty heater, thermostat, wiring, See Problem #5, Remedy D.
or fuse not allowing purge.
251
Air System
Air System Condenser/Separator
Mounted between the air compressor and the air dryer, the Haldex
Consep air system condenser/separator condenses, separates, and
expels oil, water, and other contaminants before they can reach the
air dryer. This unit requires little maintenance. The drain valve’s
integrated filter prevents damage from large debris, while a built-in
heater prevents freeze up. The condenser/separator reduces corrosion
and possible failure of air brake system components caused by
contamination, and it significantly increases the air dryer’s desiccant
life.
Operation
Air enters the circular air path of the condenser/separator through its
side inlet port. Large external cooling fins cause oil, water, and other
contaminants to condense and separate from the air. Centrifugal effect
forces contaminants to the housing wall, where they run to the bottom
of the unit (the sump). Contaminants are held in the sump, while clean
Figure 6-45, Haldex Consep
air exits through the outlet port on top of the housing to continue on to
Condenser/Separator
the remaining components of the air system. Contaminants are auto-
matically drained upon each brake application via the unit’s electroni-
cally controlled automatic drain valve.
The air system condenser/separator must be inspected periodically for proper operation. The interval
between inspections is determined by the type of service. High compressor duty cycles and high tem-
peratures can cause a buildup of carbon in the condenser, drain valve, and filter. This contamination must
be removed for proper operation. Inspection of the condenser/separator is recommended every 25,000
miles.
Inspection
1. Check connections at the unit for air leaks during the compressor loading cycle by applying a
soap solution around pipe fittings. Check the bottom of drain valve for air leaks around manual
drain port.
2. With ignition switch on and compressor pumping, apply brakes and release. After each brake
application and release, an audible click will be heard at the drain valve and a slight puff of air
will be expelled. If the valve does not operate, check electrical wiring for correct voltage (brakes
applied). Insure that the voltage matches the voltage given on the drain valve label. If there is no
current, check the electrical circuit at the unit’s relay and at the brake light switch. If the electri-
cal circuit is OK and the valve does not discharge, the unit must be serviced.
252
Air System
Before working on the air system condenser/separator, read all warnings
at the beginning of this Air System chapter!
Servicing the Condenser/Separator

1. See Figure 6-46 and 6-47. Disconnect the electrical connection at the Weather-Pack plug. Note
that the molded plug connected to the unit is non-removable!
2. Unbolt the sump from the condenser and remove the internal separator from inside the condenser
body.
3. Unbolt the bottom plate of the drain valve and remove the shuttle valve.
4. Clean and inspect all parts for damage, contamination, and corrosion. Clean the automatic drain
valve filter and blow dry with compressed air—do not remove the filter from sump. If any parts
are found to be worn or damaged the unit can be rebuilt with the repair kits listed below.
5. If no damage is found, reassemble the unit and re-test.
Installing New Condenser/Separator

In the event that you have to install a new Haldex Consep condenser/separator on the bus, be aware of
the following:
• Tighten fitting finger tight plus one and a half to two turns to prevent leakage and port splitting.
• To prevent system contamination, use thread sealant, not thread tape.
253
Air System
Part Numbers & Repair Kits
Consep Assemblies:
Packard Weather-Pack Connector.............12 volt #412-10025
Kit 2
Packard Weather-Pack Connector.............24 volt #412-10028
Sealed Butt Connector..............................12 volt #412-10026
Kit 1 & 2
Sealed Butt Connector .............................24 volt #412-10029
Metri-Pack Connector...............................12 volt #412-10027
Kit 1
Metri-Pack Connector...............................24 volt #412-10030
Consep Repair Kits:
Kit 1 & 2
Kit 1—Contains Plastic Insert and O-rings
..................................................................#412-77322 Kit 2
Kit 2—Contains: Shuttle, O-rings, mounting Kit 2
bolts and filter...........................................#412-90364
12 Volt Relay.............................................#411-76282
Kit 2
24 Volt Relay.............................................#411-76281 Kit 2
Stem Kit 2
Filter
Kit 2
Drain
Orifice
Kit 2
Shuttle
Coil Kit 2
Valve
Figure 6-46, Haldex Consep Condenser/

Separator, Exploded View
Bottom
Plate For more information, call your Gillig Service
Manual representative, or contact Haldex:
Drain
Haldex Commercial Vehicle Systems
10707 NW Airworld Drive
Kansas City MO 64153
(816) 891-2470
Figure 6-47, Automatic Drain Valve
Customer Service: (800) 643-2374
www.hbsna.com
254
Air System
Chapter 7– Brakes & Wheels
Hazardous Material Warning
Most brake linings no longer contain asbestos fibers. However, if working with any component which
does contain asbestos, follow OSHA safety requirements. The recommended work practices for servic-
ing brakes with asbestos or non-asbestos fibers are virtually the same.
Non-Asbestos Fibers Warning
The fibers in the brake linings may contain glass fibers, mineral wool,
aramid fibers, ceramic fibers, and silica that can present health risks if
inhaled.
Scientists disagree on the extent of the risks from exposure to these substances. Nonetheless, exposure
to silica dust can cause silicosis, a non-cancerous lung disease. Silicosis gradually reduces lung capacity
and efficiency and can result in serious breathing difficulty. Some medical experts believe other types
of non-asbestos fibers, when inhaled, can cause similar diseases of the lung. In addition, silica dust and
ceramic fiber dust are known to the State of California to cause lung cancer. U.S. and international agen-
cies have also determined that dust from mineral wool, ceramic fibers and silica are potential causes of
cancer.
Accordingly, Meritor and Gillig recommend that workers use caution to avoid creating and breathing
dust when servicing brakes. Specific recommended work practices for reducing exposure to non-asbes-
tos dust follow. Consult your employer for more details.
Recommended Work Practices

• Whenever possible, work on brakes in a separate area away from other operations.
• Wear a respirator at all times during brake servicing, beginning with the removal of the wheels.
Wear a respirator equipped with a high-efficiency (HEPA) filter approved by NIOSH or MSHA.
• Procedures for Servicing Brakes
a) Enclose the brake assembly within a negative pressure enclosure. The enclosure should be
equipped with a HEPA vacuum and worker arm sleeves. With the enclosure in place, use the
HEPA vacuum to loosen and vacuum residue from the brake parts.
b) As an alternative procedure, use a catch basin with water and a biodegradable, non-phos-
phate, water-based detergent to wash the brake drum or rotor and other brake parts. The solu-
tion should be applied with low pressure to prevent dust from becoming airborne. Allow the
solution to flow between the brake drum and the brake support or the brake rotor and caliper.
The wheel hub and brake assembly components should be thoroughly wetted to suppress dust
before the brake shoes or brake pads are removed. Wipe the brake parts clean with a cloth.
255
Brakes & Wheels
c) If an enclosed vacuum system or brake washing equipment is not available, carefully clean
the brake parts in the open air. Wet the parts with a solution applied with a pump-spray bottle
that creates a fine mist. Use a solution containing water, and, if available, a biodegradable,
non-phosphate, water-based detergent. The wheel hub and brake assembly components
should be thoroughly wetted to suppress dust before the brake shoes or brake pads are re-
moved. Wipe the brake parts clean with a cloth.
d) Wear a respirator equipped with a HEPA filter approved by NIOSH or MSHA when grinding
or machining brake linings. In addition, do such work in an area with a local exhaust ventila-
tion system equipped with a HEPA filter.
e) NEVER use compressed air by itself, dry brushing, or a vacuum not equipped with a HEPA
filter when cleaning brake parts or assemblies. NEVER use carcinogenic solvents, flammable
solvents, or solvents that can damage brake components as wetting agents.
• Cleaning Work Areas: Clean work areas with a vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter or by wet
wiping. NEVER use compressed air or dry sweeping to clean work areas. When you empty
vacuum cleaners and handle used rags, wear a respirator equipped with a HEPA filter approved
by NIOSH or MSHA, if the exposure levels may exceed OSHA or manufacturers’ recommended
maximum levels. When you replace a HEPA filter, wet the filter with a fine mist of water and
dispose of the used fitter with care.
• Worker Clean-Up: After servicing brakes, wash your hands before you eat, drink or smoke.
Shower after work. Do not wear work clothes home. Use a vacuum equipped with a HEPA filter
to vacuum work clothes after they are worn. Launder them separately. Do not shake or use com-
pressed air to remove dust from work clothes.
• Waste Disposal: Dispose of discarded linings, used rags, cloths, and HEPA filters with care, such
as in sealed plastic bags. Consult applicable ERA, state, and local regulations on waste disposal.
• Material data sheets on this product, as required by OSHA, are available from Meritor.
ArvinMeritor Inc.
2135 West Maple Road
Troy, Michigan 48084
(248) 435-1000
www.arvinmeritor.com
256
Brakes & Wheels
For brake component inspection, overhaul, and repair consult Meritor
Bus and Coach Brakes—Maintenance Manual 23B and Cam Brakes—
Maintenance Manual 4. These manuals are supplied with the bus and
are also available by contacting Meritor Heavy Vehicle Systems at
(800) 535-5560.
Brake System
The primary function of the compressed air system is to operate the brakes. For this purpose, a dual air
brake system is provided. The primary system (green) operates the rear brakes and the secondary system
(red) operates the front brakes. See the Air System chapter for details of the brake air system. This chap-
ter deals primarily with the mechanical parts of the brake system.
The Gillig coach uses Meritor 16.5" Cast Plus S-Cam Brakes in front and 14.5" W S-Cam Brakes in
the rear. These brakes are air actuated, cam operated, double shoe brakes with each shoe mounted on a
separate anchor pin. The brakes use automatic slack adjusters. The parking/emergency braking is accom-
plished by combination spring brakes on the rear wheels.
The front brakes have 6" wide linings and the rear brakes have 10" wide linings. Both the front and rear
brakes are serviced the same way and are covered together in this section.
Anti-lock Braking System

A Meritor Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) is standard equipment on this coach. This is a computer
controlled system that prevents wheel lockup and also has built in diagnostics. Basic operation will be
covered in this manual. For more detailed information, refer to the Meritor ABS manual provided with
the coach.
Identification
When brake parts must be replaced, be sure the correct replacement parts are installed. Meritor part
numbers may be found as follows:
• On the top of the camshaft.
• On the brake spider.
• On the web of the brake shoes.
• On the camshaft and air chamber mounting bracket.
257
Brakes & Wheels
Maintenance
Preventive
Preventive maintenance should be performed at the intervals specified in the schedule in the Preventa-
tive Maintenance chapter in this manual. Brakes must be adjusted as frequently as required for correct,
safe operation. The adjustments must give correct clearance between the lining and drum, correct push
rod travel, and correct balance between the brakes. Brakes should be cleaned, inspected, lubricated, and
adjusted whenever the wheel hubs are removed.
Overhaul
During a overhaul, the following parts should be carefully checked and replaced with genuine replace-
ment parts, if required:
1. Check spiders for distortion and loose bolts.
2. Check anchor pins for wear and correct alignment.
3. Inspect brake shoes for wear at the anchor pin holes and roller slots.
4. Check camshaft and camshaft bushing for wear.
5. Replace brake shoe return springs.
6. Examine brake linings for grease on the lining, wear, and loose rivets.
7. Inspect the drums for cracks, deep scratches, or other damage.
Brake lining must not be permitted to wear to the point that the rivets
touch the drum.
Road de-icing sprays such as magnesium chloride and calcium chloride

can cause “rust jacking.” Corrosive moisture containing these chemicals
can work its way between the shoe and lining, and eat away at the shoe
table, gradually undermining the lining until it deforms, cracks, and
works lose. Thorough brake shoe and lining inspections require the
removal of brake drums so you can see the entire brake surface and
all brake components. Busses five years and older should have brake
inspection with drums off.
Wheel bearings must be correctly adjusted before other brake

adjustments are performed.
258
Brakes & Wheels
Component Handling Considerations
• Store hoses or tubing only in suitable protective containers.
• Brake components should be stored in their original protective containers until time of installa-
tion.
• Be careful not to contaminate or damage brake hoses or fittings during handling.
• Do not dip brake fittings in sealer. Apply sealer only to the threads to avoid sealer entering the air
passages.
259
Brakes & Wheels
System Tests
Operation Check
A change in braking characteristics or a low pressure warning may

indicate a malfunction in one of the brake systems. Although the air
brake system may continue to function, the coach should not be operated
until the necessary repairs have been made and both brake systems are
operating normally.
Check the delivery pressure of both circuits using test gauges known to be accurate. Depress the treadle
to several positions between the fully released and fully applied positions and check the delivered pres-
sure on the test gauges to see that it varies equally and proportionately with the movement of the brake
treadle.
Serviceability Test
A slow brake application or release may be caused by a restricted or clogged air line. If this condition is
encountered, disconnect both ends of the suspected line and blow through it to make sure the passage is
clear. Inspect the hose for a partial restriction, such as those caused by dents or kinks. If such a condition
is found, replace the line.
Exhaust Port/Valve Leak Test

1. Apply and hold a high pressure application of more than 80 psi.
2. Coat the exhaust port and body of the application valve with a soap solution. Leakage permitted
is a one inch bubble in three seconds. If leakage is excessive, the valve must be removed and
repaired.
Hose Leak Test

With the air system at normal operating pressure (120 psi) and the brakes applied, coat all hose connec-
tions with a liquid soap solution to check for leakage. No leakage is permissible. Leakage can some-
times be corrected by tightening the connection. If tightening does not correct the leakage, new fittings
or hose assemblies must be installed.
260
Brakes & Wheels
Parking Brake
Parking brakes are applied when air pressure is released. Air pressure
is required to release the parking brakes.
The parking brake is actuated when compressed air is released (or dumped) from the parking brake half
of the rear brake chambers. Spring pressure will hold the brake engaged. The piggyback air chambers in
the rear brake assembly are dual chambers that provide separate braking from the parking and rear ser-
vice brakes. The parking brake is controlled by the parking brake valve mounted in the driver’s console.
To release the parking brake, air pressure is required to compress the spring and disengage the brake.
Disabling the Parking Brake

If it is necessary to tow the vehicle after the parking brakes have been activated and there is no air pres-
sure, follow the procedures in the following brake chambers section entitled, “Spring Brake Manual
Release.” Do not attempt to disassemble the parking (spring) brake section of the piggyback brake
chamber; observe all the warnings, cautions and notices provided in the brake chamber section.
Brake Chambers
The spring brake section of the “combination” rear brake chambers

contains springs that are under extreme, lethal pressure. There are no
user-serviceable parts inside the spring brake chamber. Never attempt to
disassemble the spring brake chamber as serious personal injury could
result from accidental sudden release of the high energy spring.
The brake system uses two different types of brake chambers for the front and rear axles. The front
brake chambers control the front service brakes only. The rear brake chambers are “combination” cham-
bers which apply both the parking (spring) and rear service brakes. Unlike the service brakes, the spring
brakes are actuated when air evacuates from the spring brake chamber. (Parking brakes are referred to
as “Spring” brakes because of the high pressure springs which operate the mechanism.) If air pressure
in the air system falls below 80 psi due to a malfunction, the spring brakes apply automatically. Since
the service brake section and spring brake section are isolated from each other by seals, the spring brake
cannot interfere with the operation of the normal service brake.
Valves in the air system control the flow of air pressure, which enables the coach to come to a stop when
applying the brake pedal. These valves are discussed in the “Brake Valves” section in this chapter.
261
Brakes & Wheels
Rear Brake Chamber Maintenance
See Figure 7-1. Inspect brake chambers at the
recommended inspection points per the Preventive
Maintenance schedule. End Cap
Plastic End Cap: The plastic end cap requires no Cage Pin
positioning or maintenance, but must be snapped
tightly in place. Inspect the cap for damage and
replace as necessary. Operating the brakes without
the plastic end securely in place voids the warranty
on the brake chambers.
Visually inspect the exterior surfaces of the unit for Breather
signs of damage from outside sources, corrosion Tube
and rust. If any of these are seen or suspected, cau-
tiously remove the complete combination chamber Chamber
by following the directions in the “Removal” and Air Inlet
“Installation” sections. Ports
Service Brake
Service Brake Clamp Ring: Inspect the service Clamp Ring
brake clamp ring to be sure it is securely in place
and damage free. If any damage is seen or suspect-
ed, cautiously remove the complete brake chamber
by following directions in the “Removal and Instal- Pushrod
lation For Spring Brakes” section.
Mounting Stud Nuts: Check to ensure the mount-
ing stud nuts are tightened to the 100–115 ft-lb
(clockwise) and washers are in place between the
nut and the bracket.
Mounting
Inspect air lines, hoses and fittings attached to the Stud Nuts
chamber. Replace any damaged or leaking parts.
Dust Boot
Fittings should be tightened to 25 ft-lb into the
chamber air inlet ports.
yoke, Pin,
Pushrod: Inspect the pushrod to be sure it is work-
Cotter Pin
ing free, not bent, not binding, and is square to the
chamber bottom with ± 3° in any direction at any
point in the stroke of the chamber. If the pushrod is Figure 7-1, Rear Brake Chamber Assembly
not square, make corrections by repositioning the
chamber on the mounting bracket and/or by shim-
ming the slack adjuster to the right or left on the
camshaft as required.
Yoke Assembly: Inspect the yoke assembly being sure the yoke pin is installed and locked into place
with a cotter pin. Replace any damaged, worn, or missing parts. MGM recommends the yoke locknut be
tightened to 25–35 ft-lb.
262
Brakes & Wheels
Breather Tube: Both ends of the connector tube must be engaged a minimum of 1/2" into each of the
flexible elbows. The tube must be glued to both of the elbows with a high quality rubber adhesive. These
units must be mounted with the breather tube in the upper half of the non-pressure chamber facing away
from the road surface.
Failure to operate the chamber without an external breather tube and

end cover cap intact and in good condition, will void the MGM brake
warranty without remedy.
Spring Brake Manual Release

When the spring brakes cannot be released using the operator’s controls or when there is not sufficient
air pressure in the air system, the springs brakes can be manually released as follows:
1. Before releasing brakes, chock the wheels of the coach to prevent a runaway.
2. Remove the plastic end cap from the spring chamber.
3. Using a 15/16" wrench, unscrew the release-nut and remove the nut, flat washer, and release-bolt
from their storage pocket on the side of chamber.
4. (Optional) For easier manual-releasing, apply a minimum of 90 psi air pressure to the inlet port
marked “Spring Brake,” but be sure to exhaust all air pressure after step 7.
5. Insert the release-bolt into the center hole of the head and, being sure that the formed end of the
bolt has entered the hole in the piston inside the chamber, continue to insert the bolt until it bot-
toms out. Be absolutely sure of correct bolt-to-piston engagement.
6. Turn the release-bolt 1/4 turn clockwise and pull the bolt out to lock the formed end into the pis-
ton. If the bolt does not lock into position in less than 1/2" outward movement, repeat steps 4 and
5 until you are sure it does lock.
7. Holding the bolt locked into the piston, install the flat washer and the release-nut on the end of
the release-bolt, and turn down the nut against the flat washer until finger tight.
Do not exceed the following lengths and do not exceed 50 ft-lb torque on
the release-nut at any time or damage may occur which could prevent
any further correct manual-releasing of the spring brake chamber.
8. Using a 15/16" hand wrench (do not use an impact wrench) turn the release-nut clockwise until
4" of bolt extend above the nut.
9. To reactivate the spring brake from its manually-released position, reverse the order of steps 1
through 7 above.
10. When reinstalling the release-bolt, flat washer and release-nut into the storage pocket, torque
them at 10 ft-lb on the nut against the flat washer.
263
Brakes & Wheels
Removal and Installation of Rear Brake Chambers
The following instructions are for rear brake chambers. Instructions

for front brake chambers are similar, except the front chambers do not
have a spring brake chamber.
Before proceeding to replace a brake chamber, make sure that the brake chamber being replaced was
properly installed with the correct push rod length. See also “Brake Adjustment.”
1. Manually release the spring brake following the steps in the previous section.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the yoke pin, knock out the yoke pin and remove both air lines from
the assembly. Be sure to mark the air line from the inlet port marked Spring Brake for later rein-
stallation reference.
3. Using a 15/16" wrench, unscrew hex nuts on mounting bolts and cautiously remove the old
chamber from the mounting bracket.
4. Remove the hex nuts and the flat washers on the mounting bolts of the new chamber. Clean the
face of the mounting bracket and install the chamber on the bracket with close attention given to
positioning the chamber air inlet ports for correct alignment to the vehicle air lines. Then install
one flat washer and hex nut on each mounting bolt. Next, using a 15/16" hand wrench (do not
use an impact wrench), tighten nuts to the recommended 100–115 ft-lb. If necessary, reposition
the air inlet ports for proper mating and alignment with vehicle air lines.
Position the non-pressure chamber end of the breather tube in the upper half of the chamber fac-
ing away from the road surface. Failure to do so may void the MGM Brakes Warranty.
5. Cut the service pushrod of the new unit to the correct size as follows:
a. Make sure that the spring brake is fully manually released as described in the “Manual Re-
lease” section of this chapter.
b. Make sure the service brake piston is fully retracted into the brakes “OFF” position.
c. Cut the rod at a length of 1-3/4", measuring from the outward bottom face of the service
brake.
6. Reconnect the yoke to the push rod of the brake chamber.
7. Reconnect the yoke to the slack adjuster. Be sure that the correct diameter and length of yoke pin
is installed into the correct hole in the slack adjuster. Secure the yoke pin with a new cotter pin.
(See also “Installing Haldex® Automatic Slack Adjusters” in the “Automatic Slack Adjusters”
section of this chapter.)
8. Inspect the pushrod to be sure that it is working free, not bent, not binding and is square to the
chamber bottom within ±3° in any direction at any point in the stroke of the chamber. If the
pushrod is not square, make corrections by repositioning the chamber on the mounting bracket
and/or by shimming the slack adjuster to the right or left on the camshaft as required.
9. Apply Teflon tape or sealing compound to the hose fittings and reinstall both of the air lines to
the chamber being sure each is mated to the correct air inlet port according to markings made
earlier. The fittings should be tightened to 25 ft-lb into the chamber air-inlet ports.
264
Brakes & Wheels
10. Using vehicle system air, charge the spring brake with full line pressure (minimum 100 psi).
Using only soapy water (never any type of oil) inspect for air leaks at the air lines and fittings. If
bubbles appear, tighten fittings slightly, but not over 25 ft-lb. If the service brake clamp ring was
loosened to reposition air inlet ports in step 4 above, apply air to the spring brake and then apply
and hold the foot brake treadle valve down to charge the service brake chamber. Test for air leaks
around the circumference of the service clamp ring. If bubbles appear, firmly tap the circumfer-
ence of the clamp ring with a hammer and retighten the clamp nuts to 25–30 ft-lb until leaks
cease. Completely exhaust air from both of the chambers when complete.
11. With air pressure now exhausted from the service brake chamber, but still applied on the spring
brake, remove the release-nut, washer and release-bolt. Replace these parts in their storage
pocket on the chamber and tighten nut against flat washer to 10 ft-lb. Make sure both ends of the
connector tube are engaged a minimum of 1/2" into each of the flexible elbows. The tube must
be glued to both of the elbows with a high quality rubber adhesive. These units must be mounted
with the breather tube in the upper half of the non-pressure chamber facing away from the road
surface.
After replacement of any brake chamber, the chamber pushrod stroke

and actuating alignment must be checked to assure correct installation
and service brake adjustment. It is very important to recognize that
no service brake adjustments can be made at either the spring brake
chamber or service brake chamber, and that all “stroke adjustments”
must be made at the slack adjuster.
12. Replace the end cap.
Spring Brake Chamber Disposal

All retired spring brake actuators must be safely disarmed before they are disposed of to prevent seri-
ous personal injury from the accidental sudden release of the high energy spring (as much as 2,700 lbs)
in the spring chamber. Observe all safety precautions when disarming the chamber. Strictly follow the
instructions for disarming spring brake chambers provided by your transit authority or contact MGM
brakes for complete instructions.
AMGM Brakes
Indian Head Industries, Inc.
8530 Cliff Cameron Drive
Charlotte, N.C. 28269
(704) 547-7411
265
Brakes & Wheels
Verifying Brake Adjustment
Automatic Slack Adjusters

Brake adjustment is accomplished using slack adjusters (Figure 7-2). Slack adjusters are located be-
tween the air brake chamber and the brake cam at each wheel. Upon brake application the slack adjuster
rotates and moves the shoes into contact with the drum. The slack adjusters adjust the brake shoe-to-
drum clearance automatically. The function of slack adjusters is to maintain chamber stroke as the
linings wear. Automatic slack adjusters are self-adjusting and do not require manual adjustment over
time as the lining wears. Instructions for removal, installation and initial adjustment are provided in this
chapter.
Automatic slack adjusters should not be operated as manual adjusters.

Manual adjustment can cause wear that could result in brake failure!
If air chamber stroke exceeds CVSA or DOT maximum allowances,
see “Troubleshooting Brakes” to determine if the adjuster requires
replacement.
Clevis
Anchor
Adjusting Bracket
Nut
Cam Shaft
Figure 7-2, Automatic Slack Adjuster
266
Brakes & Wheels
Measuring Push Rod Stroke
The automatic slack adjusters maintain proper push rod stroke (travel) at all times. An inspection should
be performed during routine maintenance intervals to measure the push rod stroke. The push rod stroke
for the Low Floor bus should be less than the specified adjustment limit as follows:
• Front brake adjustment limit (type 24L brake chamber): 2 inches
• Rear brake adjustment limit: (type 3636 brake chamber): 2-1/4 inches
If the pushrod stroke exceeds the maximum stroke listed above, do not manually adjust the slack. See
“Automatic Slack Adjuster Checking Procedures” to determine if the adjuster requires replacement.
Measure the stroke using the following procedure (see Figure 7-3):
1. Measure the length from the face of the air chamber to the end of the yoke pin while the brake is
released.
2. Have another person apply the brakes at 90–100 psi. To obtain 90–100 psi of air pressure in the
braking system:
a. Start the engine.
b. Build air pressure to 100 psi and then turn off the engine. If above 100 psi, drain primary
and secondary air tanks down to 100 psi.
c. Apply and hold the service brakes.
3. Measure from the face of the brake chamber to the end of the yoke pin with the brakes applied.
4. The difference between the measurements in steps 1 and 3 is the push rod stroke. The push rod
stroke should be as short as possible without the brakes dragging.
Do not work under a vehicle supported solely by jacks. Jacks can slip
or fall over and cause injury.
267
Brakes & Wheels
Automatic Slack Adjuster Release
and Removal
1. Remove the control arm nut from the anchor
bracket. Remove the anchor bracket mounting
nut from the brake chamber bracket and re-
move the anchor bracket.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin and
then remove the clevis pin from the clevis.
3. Using a 7/16" wrench, turn the adjusting nut
counterclockwise until the slack adjuster clears
the clevis.
4. Remove the slack adjuster from the cam shaft.
For the rear slack adjuster, push in on the
slack adjuster, and while pushing, tilt/bind it to
Figure 7-3, Slack Adjuster Pushrod Stroke
your left or right to push the cam shaft in little
by little, just enough so the slack adjuster will
clear the axle housing when pulled off the S-
cam.
Push the camshaft in as little as possible to avoid having the S-cam push
in beyond the brake shoe rollers.
268
Brakes & Wheels
Installing Haldex® Automatic Slack Adjusters
Block wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling. Ensure system tank

pressure is above 100 psi.
1. Check that the push rod is fully retracted; apply air to release spring brake. If air is not available,
spring brake must be manually caged back.
2. Install anchor bracket loosely as illustrated (Figure. 7-4).
Anchor Bracket
Front and rear brake assemblies utilize two

different anchor bracket configurations.
Some strap brackets have two mounting holes. Prop-
er mounting location is determined by the length
of adjuster arm. 5" and 5-1/2" adjuster arm lengths
utilize the shorter hole location while 6" and 6-1/2"
length adjusters utilize the longer hole locations. Do
not tighten anchor bracket fasteners at this time.
3. Apply “Anti-Seize” type lubricant to camshaft
splines.
4. Install the brake adjuster onto the camshaft with Figure 7-4, Install Anchor Bracket
the adjusting hex pointing away from the brake
chamber (Figure 7- 5). Secure the brake adjuster on
the camshaft. Use at least one inner washer
and enough outer washers to allow no more
than .060" movement of adjuster on cam-
shaft. (Per TMC recommended practice RP6
09-A.)
Do NOT pull push rod out to meet

the brake adjuster.
5. Rotate the 7/16" adjusting hex nut CLOCK-
WISE until the clevis hole lines up with the
brake adjuster arm hole. Apply anti-seize to
clevis pin, install and secure with cotter pin. Figure 7-5, Install Slack Adjuster
269
Brakes & Wheels
6. Rotate the control arm away from the adjusting hex
toward the air chamber, until it comes to a definite
internal stop (Figure 7-6). Most adjusters will be
equipped with an “Installation Indicator.” Indicator
must fall within the slot for proper installation with
brakes fully released (Figure 7-7). If the control arm
position is wrong, tight brakes will occur (Figure
7-7).
7. Tighten all anchor bracket fasteners (make sure the
control arm does not move from its position while
tightening fasteners).
8. The adjuster must be manually adjusted at this time.
Rotate the adjusting hex clockwise until the lining
lightly contacts the drum. Then back-off the adjust-
er by turning the adjusting hex counter-clockwise
1/2 of a turn (Figure 7-8). A minimum of 13 ft-lb is Figure 7-6, Rotate Control Arm
necessary to overcome the internal clutch. A ratch-
eting sound will be present.
Do NOT use an impact wrench

or internal damage will occur!
9. Perform final inspection. With service
brake application fully released, ensure
that spring brakes are released, and check
that the “Installation Indicator” is within
the slotted area. IF NOT, REPEAT steps
Figure 7-7, Correct Adjustment
6 and 7.
To ensure proper fit and function, always

replace both adjuster and mounting bracket.
Figure 7-8, Manual Adjustment
270
Brakes & Wheels
Automatic Brake Adjuster Checking Procedures
If the brake adjuster is not maintaining the proper applied stroke, before removing the brake adjuster,
check the condition of the foundation brake. If after inspecting the foundation brake no apparent prob-
lems are found, inspect the automatic brake adjuster to determine if it is operating properly. The inspec-
tion can be performed on or off the vehicle using the following procedures.
• Block wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling.

• Ensure system tank pressure is at 90-100 psi.
• Check that push rod is fully retracted; apply air to release spring
brake.
• If air is not available, spring brake must be manually caged back.
• Do not use air tools on brake adjuster!
On Vehicle Inspection
Component Cause Action

Tight or dragging Control arm mispositioned Realign control arm and anchor bracket. Check “Installing Haldex
brakes Automatic Slack Adjusters.”
Improper anchor bracket If anchor bracket to control arm connection is worn, loose, bent or
connection to control arm broken, it must be re-secured or replaced.
Excessive chamber Low clutch torque Rotate the 7/16" adjustment hex one full turn counterclockwise.
push rod travel Replace brake adjuster if the torque is less than 13 ft-lb or no
ratcheting sound occurs.
Unknown Perform automatic brake adjuster operational check (see below).
Off Vehicle Inspection

Component Cause Action
Low clutch torque Place adjuster arm in vise. Rotate the 7/16" adjustment hex
counterclockwise one full turn to check de-adjustment torque. After
control arm stops rotating, a minimum of 13 ft-lb will be required and
a ratcheting sound will occur. Replace brake adjuster if the torque is
less than 13 ft‑lb or no de-adjustment ratcheting sound is present.
Control arm slippage Place adjuster arm in vise. Rotate the control arm counterclockwise
until the control arm rotates to an INTERNAL STOP. If the
installation indicator goes past the indicator notch or does not stop
Adjuster not rotating (arm slips freely), replace the brake adjuster.
functioning properly Unknown If torque is above 13 ft-lb, scribe a line on the adjustment hex.
Manually pull the brake adjuster control arm clockwise then push
back counterclockwise until the installation indicator stops in the
indicator notch. The hex will move in a clockwise direction when the
control arm of the brake adjuster is pushed back counterclockwise.
Replace adjuster if hex does not move.
Worn/missing control arm Remove and replace pin and bushings. If adjuster has passed the
wear bushing, and anchor above checks, re-install adjuster on vehicle, with new hardware.
stud pin, if applicable
271
Brakes & Wheels
Automatic Brake Adjuster Operational Check
Functional operation of the brake adjuster can be performed on the vehicle by using the following proce-
dure:
• Block wheels to prevent vehicle from rolling.

• Ensure system tank pressure is at 90–100 psi.
• Check that push rod is fully retracted; apply air to release spring
brake.
• If air is not available, spring brake must be manually caged back.
1. Manually de-adjust brakes (turn adjustment hex counterclockwise one full turn) to create an ex-
cessive drum to lining clearance condition. (A ratcheting sound should occur.)
2. Make a full service brake application. On release, allow sufficient time for brake to fully retract.
3. During the brake release, observe rotation of the adjustment hex (attaching a wrench on the hex
or scribing the hex will make this rotation easier to see).
This rotation indicates that an excessive clearance condition has been determined by the brake
adjuster, and it is making an adjustment to compensate. On each subsequent brake release, the
amount of adjustment and push rod travel will be reduced until the desired clearance is achieved.
If rotation of the adjustment hex is not observed, check foundation brakes for proper operation
and condition. If foundation brake assembly checks out OK and hex still does not turn, check
control arm and mounting bracket for possible worn, bent, or broken components. If the control
arm and mounting bracket check out OK, replace the adjuster and hardware.
272
Brakes & Wheels
Troubleshooting Brakes
Cause Correction Cause Correction
1. Brakes do not apply enough (or any) force.
A. Worn or damaged camshaft. A. Remove and replace camshaft.
B. Air chamber installed wrong. B. Install correctly.
C. Leak or restriction in air lines or C. Repair air lines or valves.

valves.
D. Air chamber air diaphragm damaged. D. Repair or replace air chamber.
E. Brakes not adjusted correctly. E. Adjust brakes.
F. Grease or other contamination on F. Clean or replace brake linings.

brake linings.
G. Linings worn, damaged, or missing. G. Repair or replace linings.
2. Braking force not equal or lining wear not even.

A. Air chamber air diaphragm damaged. A. Repair or replace air chamber.
B. Worn or damaged camshaft. B. Remove and replace camshaft.
C. Broken return springs. C. Replace return springs.
D. Brakes not adjusted correctly. D. Adjust brakes.
E. Grease or other contamination on E. Clean or replace brake linings.

brake linings.
F. Brake linings installed backward. F. Install brake shoes correctly.
G. Brake linings installed in wrong position G. Install linings in correct positions.

on shoes.
H. Drum has runout of more than H. Repair or replace drum.

0.010" (0.25 mm).
I. Wheel bearings not adjusted correctly. I. Adjust wheel bearings.
J. Linings not specified are installed. J. Replace with specified linings.
273
Brakes & Wheels
3. Parking brake does not apply when air pressure is released.
Disassembly of air chambers is a hazardous operation. Air chambers

contain springs which are under extreme pressure and are extremely
dangerous. Disassembly should only be undertaken by a mechanic
experienced in such operations.
Cause Correction Cause Correction
A. Power spring in air chamber is not fully A. Release power spring in air chamber
released (spring is caged). (uncage spring).
B. Air pressure that holds spring in com- B Repair air system.

pressed position is not fully released.
C. Brakes not adjusted correctly. C. Adjust brakes.
D. Power springs in air chamber weak or D. Replace air chamber.

broken.
E. Grease or other contamination on brake E. Clean or replace brake linings.

linings.
4. Brakes dragging.
A. Not enough air pressure to hold spring. A. Repair air system.
B. Air lines connected to wrong ports. B. Connect to correct ports.
C. Leaks in air lines. C. Repair or replace air lines.
D. Leaks in spring brake assembly. D. Repair or replace spring brake.
E. Wheel bearings not adjusted correctly. E. Adjust wheel bearings.
F. Drum has runout of more than 0.010" F. Repair or replace drum.

(0.25 mm).
G. Shoe return springs are weak or missing. G. Replace shoe return springs.
H. Valve does not permit complete release H. Repair or replace valves.
of system pressure when brake is
released.
I. Worn or damaged camshaft. I. Remove and replace camshaft.
J. Damaged rollers. J. Remove and replace rollers.
274
Brakes & Wheels
Anti-Lock Braking System Operation
The Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) is an electronic system that monitors and controls wheel speed
during braking. See Figure 7-9. This illustration below shows a schematic view, not location. The ABS
ECU (electronic control unit) is frame mounted, usually located behind the rear suspension. If a wheel
starts to lock up during braking, the ABS will reduce air pressure to that wheel’s brake to keep all wheels
turning at the same speed to maintain the vehicle in a straight line. When the wheel speed enters the
stable region again, the pressure is automatically increased.
TOOTH WHEEL TOOTH WHEEL

SENSOR SENSOR
ECU
ABS
ABS
MODULATION
MODULATION
VALVES
VALVES
PNEUMATIC
ELECTRIC
20-500-33
Figure 7-9, Anti-Lock Brake System
There is an ABS warning lamp located on the light bar that will light if the system is malfunctioning. If
the brakes are not operating properly and the ABS warning lamp is not lit, the problem is probably in the
brake system, not the ABS.
ABS Components
Tooth Wheel
A tooth wheel, located on each wheel hub, rotates with the wheel and provides the means of measuring
the speed of the wheel.
Sensor
A sensor observes the tooth wheel rotation and generates electronic pulses that indicate wheel speed.
The front wheel sensors are mounted on the steering knuckles. The rear wheel sensors are mounted in a
block attached to the axle housing.
275
Brakes & Wheels
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
The ECU is the brain of the system. It receives information from the sensors and sends signals to the
ABS modulator valves.
ABS Modulator Valve

The ABS modulator valve controls air pressure to each affected brake during ABS operation. Dur-
ing normal operation, compressed air flows unrestricted through the ABS valve to the brake chamber.
During ABS operation, the ABS valve adjusts air pressure to the brake chamber to control braking and
prevent wheel lock.
ABS Warning Lamp

The ABS warning lamp is located on the light bar and lights when the ignition switch is activated. The
lamp turns off when the vehicle speed reaches approximately 4 mph. If the warning lamp remains lit, or
comes on at any other time during vehicle operation, it signals a malfunction of the ABS.
Diagnostics
To troubleshoot a possible ABS fault, use the blink code diagnostics built into the system. This is accom-
plished by turning on the ABS blink code switch, located in the rear enclosure inside the coach (behind
a panel at the top of the rear bulkhead; refer to the “Electrical Panels” section of this manual for exact
location). The blink code LED in the rear enclosure (LED #23 on the D2 #73 multiplexer module) and
the ABS lamp on the light bar, will flash a series of coded flashes that indicate fault locations. Refer to
the Electrical Chapter and the Meritor ABS service manual, provided with the coach, for blink code
operation details.
276
Brakes & Wheels
Front and Rear Wheel Hub Assemblies
The front wheels and hubs are carried on two opposed, tapered roller bearings on the front wheel spin-
dles. The rear wheels and hubs are carried on two opposed, tapered roller bearings on the rear axle shaft
housing. The bearings are adjustable for wear. Wheel studs are installed in the hub flanges to mount the
wheels and tires. The brake drums are mounted over the wheel studs on the outer side of the hub flanges.
Spring-loaded, rotating-type oil seals on the inner side of each hub prevent bearing lubricant from enter-
ing the brake assemblies and contaminating the linings.
Front Hub Removal
Do not work under a vehicle supported solely by jacks, as they can slip
or fall over and cause injury.
1. Raise the front end of the coach until the tires just clear the floor. Block and secure the chassis.
2. Release the slack adjusters so that the shoes retract and the drums will clear the linings. The pro-
cedure for releasing the automatic slack adjusters is in this section of the manual.
3. Remove the wheel stud nuts and remove the wheel and tire.
4. Slide the brake drum off the hub.
5. Remove the six bolts and lockwashers attaching the hubcap to the wheel hub. Remove the hub-
cap.
6. Raise the lip of the jam nut lockwasher; then remove the jam nut, lockwasher, lock ring, and
bearing adjusting nut from the wheel spindle (Figure 7-10).
7. Pull the front hub assembly straight off the spindle, being care-
ful not to allow the outer bearing cone to fall out of the hub.
8. Carefully remove the outer bearing cone and roller as-
sembly from the hub. (Figure 7-11).
9. Pull the inner grease seal out of the hub, then lift PIERCED
the inner bearing cone and roller assembly LOCK WASHER
from the hub.

10. Perform the cleaning and inspection JAM NUT
operations below. If inspection
indicates the need for replacing
ADJUSTING
the inner and outer bearing NUT
cups, they may be driven
out of the hub by using a JAM NUT
long brass drift and hammer LOCK
WASHER
through the opposite end of
the hub.
20-500-35
Figure 7-10, Front Wheel Adjusting Nuts
277
Brakes & Wheels
Cleaning BRAKE
LINING BRAKE SHOE WELDNUT
CLIP
1. Immerse the bearing cone and
(ON CLIPS)
MACHINE
roller assemblies in clean, clean-

SCREW
SEAL
ing solvent. Clean the bearings CONE AND

ROLLER
with a stiff brush to remove old ASSEMBLY
HUB
lubricant. Dry the bearings with
ADJUSTING
NUT
clean paper or rags. Do not use LOCKING
NUT
compressed air. WHEEL
HUB SPINDLE
2. Thoroughly clean all old lubri- CAP
cant out of the inside of the hubs, NUT

LOCK
then wipe them dry. LOCK KING
PIN
RING
3. Clean all old lubricant from the CAP
front wheel spindles. Do not

SCREW
permit cleaning solvent or grease WHEEL

to get on the brake linings. NUT DRIP SHIELD
4. Using a clean cloth dampened HUB

NUT
BRAKE DRUM
with a suitable solvent, wipe old WHEEL
lubricant off the bearing seals.

5. Wash all small parts such as bear- Figure 7-11, Front Hub
ing nuts, lock ring, and locknuts
in cleaning solvent. Wipe or blow
the parts dry.
Inspection
1. Inspect bearing rollers for excessive wear, nicks and burrs, or other damage. Slowly rotate the
roller bearings around the cone to detect any flat or rough spots on the cone or rollers. Do not
mistake dirt or grit for roughness. Replace the bearing assembly if any damage is found.
2. Examine the bearing cups in the hubs. If the cups are pitted or cracked, they must be replaced
with new parts.
3. Carefully examine the seal for signs of wear, deterioration, distortion, or damage at the sealing
surface. Replace the seal if any of the above conditions are in evidence.
278
Brakes & Wheels
Front Hub Installation
1. If replacing the wheel studs in the hub, tighten the inner stud nuts to 300–330 ft-lb
(405–445 N-m) torque.
2. If the bearings cups were removed, drive or press new cups into the hub with the wide side of the
cups toward the inside of the hub. Make sure the cups are fully seated against the shoulder in the
hub and are not cocked.
3. Lubricate the inside of the hub and the front wheel bearings prior to their installation. Pack the
bearing and hub according to the procedure, and with the lubricant, specified in Lubrication Sec-
tion of this manual. See Figure 7-12.
4. Install the inner bearing cone and roller assembly into the hub.
5. Press the inner grease seal into the hub. The lip of the seal must point toward the inside of the
hub. Coat the face of the seal with grease.
6. Install the hub assembly on the front wheel spindle. Be careful not to damage the seal.
7. Place the outer bearing cone and roller assembly on the wheel spindle. Push the bearing into the
hub by hand.
8. Install the wheel bearing adjusting nut on the threaded wheel spindle. Tighten the adjusting nut
hand tight against the outer bearing.
9. Position the brake drum on the hub flange and attach it with the five countersunk machine
screws, if applicable. Tighten to 30–35 ft-lb (40–45 N-m) torque.
10. Adjust the wheel bearings as directed under “Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment” in this section.
11. Place the wheel and tire on the wheel studs. Install the stud nuts and tighten according to the
procedure outlined in the “Wheels and Tires” section , under “Wheel Stud Nut Tightening Proce-
dure.”
LUBE
07-000599
Figure 7-12, Wheel Bearing Lubrication
279
Brakes & Wheels
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
1. Use torque wrench to tighten adjusting nut to 100 ft-lb while rotating hub in both directions.
2. Loosen adjusting nut completely and then tighten nut to 20 ft-lb while rotating hub.
3. Back off adjusting nut 1/3 turn.
4. Install lock ring, lockwasher, and jam nut.
5. Tighten jam nut to 200–300 ft-lb.
6. Attach a dial indicator with the magnetic base at the bottom of the hub or the brake drum if
installed (Figure 7-13).
7. Adjust the dial indicator so that the pointer is against the center of the knuckle. Set the dial
indicator on zero.
8. Measure the end play while pushing/pulling on both sides of the hub while looking at the dial
indicator. The end play is the total travel observed. If the end play is not within 0.001– 0.005
inch, repeat steps 3 to 5, reducing the amount the adjusting nut is backed off in step 3 to 1/4 turn.
9. When the proper end play is achieved, lock the jam nut in place by bending the edge of the jam
nut lock washer over one flat of the jam nut.
Figure 7-13, Measuring Wheel Bearing End Play
280
Brakes & Wheels
To avoid possible personal injury, refer to the “Jacking and Towing”
section for jacking instructions any time the coach is to be raised or
lowered.
Rear Hub Removal and Installation

Due to the unique design of the rear axle, you should refer to the rear axle manufacture’s manual
(Meritor—see Notice below) for the proper procedures.
Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment

Due to the unique design of the rear axle, you should refer to the rear axle manufacture’s manual
(Meritor—see Notice below) for the proper procedure.
For rear hub and wheel bearing service information consult the Meritor
manual supplied with the bus, either Maintenance Manual 23A—Bus
and Coach Rear Axles or Maintenance Manual No. 23E—Bus and Coach
Planetary Drive Axle, depending upon they type of rear axle installed.
These manuals are also available from the Meritor Web site, www.
arvinmeritor.com/tech_library, and by contacting Meritor Heavy Vehicle
Systems at (800) 535-5560.
281
Brakes & Wheels
Wheels and Tires
Mounting and Demounting Safety Precautions
A wheel and inflated tire can be dangerous. It is imperative that personnel

servicing wheels and tires carefully note all precautions outlined in this
section in order to avoid personal injury and costly damage.
• Completely deflate a tire prior to removing it from the vehicle. Reduce pressure first by depress-
ing the valve plunger. Then remove the entire core. Take care to keep your eyes away from the
valve.
• Before mounting a tire and wheel, inspect the wheel carefully for damage, rust, or distortion. Do
not use wheels which are out of shape, rusted, or broken.
• Do not use any lubricant that contains water or a solvent which is harmful to rubber. A combina-
tion lubricant and rust preventative compound is preferable. This protective measure is especial-
ly important with drop center tubeless wheels, as air is contained within the tire by the side wheel
surface.
• Remove rust and other foreign matter. Parts that are excessively corroded are weakened and
should be replaced. Use of a rust preventative compound (not containing water) will minimize
rusting.
• Use only preferred and alternate size wheels for tires and do not exceed the recommended tire
pressures. Neglect of these requirements can result in wheel failures and accidents.
• Make sure the rim ring is seated to the full depth of the groove, fits tightly all around, and is se-
curely locked.
• Use a specially constructed safety cage while inflating tires.
• When changing tires on drop center wheels, remove the wheels and place on a wheel holder or
tire changing machine, removing and remounting the tires in this way. Greater speed and ease
are obtained than by attempting to make the change while the wheel is mounted on the coach.
This will also preclude having to use a hammer to seat the tire.
• Exercise caution when using tire irons. Tire irons must be gripped firmly and hands kept free of
oil and grease when they are used, as they can slip and fly with tremendous speed and force.
• When servicing tires be careful not to drop wheels or assemblies on your hands, feet, or body. Do
not drop the assemblies heavily onto the floor. Use correct form when lifting tires, using your legs
as well as your body. This may help to prevent painful internal injury.
• Use care in hammering rings with steel hammers. Small bits of steel may be broken off the ham-
mer or rim, flying into your face, eye, or body. Use rubber covered, steel headed hammers when-
ever possible. With modern tire changing equipment, pounding is not necessary.
• Tire spreader arms can be dangerous. Keep them closed when the machine is idle and use care in
all respects when operating the machine.
• Always wear goggles or a face shield when mounting or demounting wheels and tires.
282
Brakes & Wheels
Vehicle Operation Safety Precautions
• Do not overload tires. Ensure that the combination of load and vehicle weight does not exceed the
rated load of the tires or wheels used.
• Do not exceed maximum inflation pressures. This is determined by the size and ply rating of the
tire, but it is not to exceed the maximum inflation printed on the wheel and the side of the tire. It is
also important to maintain uniform inflation in both tires of a dual tire assembly so that the load is
equally distributed.
• Do not run a coach on one tire of a dual assembly. When there is a loss of air in one tire, its car-
rying capability is reduced and the load must be sustained by the other tire and wheel. Both tires
should be inflated to balanced recommended pressures before further operation.
• Never reinflate a tire which has been run flat without first thoroughly inspecting the tire and the
wheel. It is especially important to make sure the lock ring is secure in the gutter and has not been
damaged.
• Check the wheel nuts periodically. Loose wheel nuts can cause dangerous wheel shimmy and loss
of vehicle control. Excessive torque is also dangerous in that it can cause stud and ring breakage.
Refer to the torque recommendations in this section.
Wheel Maintenance
1. Before a new vehicle goes into service and after each wheel removal, all wheel stud nuts should
be properly tightened. Refer to instructions for wheel nut torque and tightening sequence in this
section. See that studs and nuts are free from oil and grease.
2. Retighten the nuts every 100 miles (160 km) for the first 500 miles (805 km) to offset the setting-
in of the clamping surfaces.
3. Inspect wheel stud nuts at least every 1,000 miles (1,610 km) thereafter. If the coach is subjected
to severe driving conditions, inspect it daily, regardless of the mileage.
4. When changing wheels or tires and before assembling wheels to hubs, remove dust, dirt, and
other foreign materials from all surfaces. Hand or electric wire brushes, sand blasting, or chemi-
cal baths may be used. The gutter of the rim base should be cleared of rust and other materials
which may obstruct the safe, positive seating of rings.
5. The bead seat areas of the wheel should be free of rust and rubber deposits. This is especially
important for drop center tubeless wheels because the 15° bead seat is the air sealing element.
6. Rings should be cleaned with wire brushes. Pay particular attention to the seating surfaces and
the bead seat areas.
7. Paint the wheel with a brush or spray with fast drying metal primer. Surfaces should be clean and
dry prior to painting. Ensure that all bare metal areas on the wheel are covered. This is especially
important on drop center tubeless wheels because warm and sometimes moist air is in constant
contact with the metal surface on the tire side of the wheel. Dual rear wheels should be posi-
tioned with the valve stems 180° apart.
283
Brakes & Wheels
Incorrect installation of hub-piloted wheels can result in a fatal crash
or damage to the vehicle. ALWAYS refer to the wheel manufacturer’s
manual supplied with your vehicle when installing, removing, or
servicing wheel assemblies. For Alcoa aluminum wheels, consult the
Alcoa Heavy Duty Wheel Service Manual (Form E37-13584), available
from Alcoa by calling (800) 242-9898. For Accuride steel wheels, consult
the Accuride Rim/Wheel Safety & Service Manual (Form ACC-SS1196),
available from Accuride by calling (800) 626-7096.
Inspection and Maintenance

On Vehicle
Examine wheels at frequent intervals for safe operation. Particular care should be given to front end
examinations. Clean off dirt and look for cracks or other damage.
Avoid abuse which may shorten the life of a wheel. Lack of care in changing a tire, excessive pounding
of the rim, overloading, or hitting curbs at high speed or at a sharp angle, may damage wheels.
The wheel stud nuts must be kept tight. Check all stud nuts after every tire change.
Wheels Removed
Do not heat wheels in an attempt to soften them for straightening or to

repair damage from striking curbs or other solid obstacles. The special
alloy used in wheels is heat-treated and uncontrolled heating from
welding affects the properties of the metal. Do not weld on a wheel for
any reason.
Whenever a tire is removed, thoroughly examine the complete wheel. Remove all grease and road dirt
and use a wire brush or steel wool to remove the rubber scraps from the bead seat.
Projections on the side wall of the gutter may cause uneven seating of the side or lock ring and lead to
chipping of the gutter. Such projections should be removed.
Smooth all projections in the mounting area to assure even pressures when tightening the wheel nuts.
Nicks and gouges in the vicinity of the fixed flange may lead to wheel fracture. Wheels with such dam-
age should be replaced.
284
Brakes & Wheels
Wheel Inspection
Do not use wheels with bent rims. Such use will result in excessive tire wear and, if used on the front,
steering difficulty may be encountered. If a wheel is suspected of being bent, it should be checked.
1. Remove the wheel from the
coach and dismount the tire.
Clean all rust, scale, and grease TOP VIEW OF WHEEL
from the wheel.
2. Mount the wheel securely in a
lathe or other suitable fixture
which will allow true circular
rotation.
3. Revolve the wheel slowly and
check at the rim for lateral runout RUNOUT
(wobble), which should not ex- 3/32"
ceed 3/32" (2.3 mm). See Figure
OUT OF ROUND
7-14. Check for radial runout
(out-of-round), which also should 3/32" 20-100-x166
not exceed 3/32" (2.3 mm). Figure 7-14, Distorted Wheel Check

Wheels that are distorted in ex-
cess of these tolerances must be
replaced.
Wheels Damage
Cracks running from hand hole to stud hole, bolt hole to center hole, hand hole to hand hole, hand hole
to rim, or stud hole to stud hole are a direct result of overloading or loose wheel nuts. Check the working
loads of axles, check the wheel studs and complete wheel and hub assembly, and scrap the damaged
wheels.
The hub may have a worn mounting face as a result of movement of the inner wheel on the hub. The
studs may have turned in the hub and worn the stud groove or the studs may have actual cracks or breaks
resulting from the abuse. The wheel may have worn ball seats in the stud holes. Each of these possibili-
ties must be checked and all damaged parts replaced.
Rust streaks originating from the stud-holes are a positive indication that the wheel nuts are now, or
have been, loose. In this case the assembly should be checked carefully because damage to hub, studs, or
wheel may have occurred.
Broken or cracked wheel rings are generally caused by rough use of tire tools or improper initial seating
of the ring in the gutter of the rim. When discovered, the ring must be replaced. Bent or sprung rings can
be caused by rough or improper removal of the ring. The damaged ring cannot be properly positioned to
accurately seat in the rim gutter and should be replaced.
Cracks through the side ring, spreading laterally through the entire section, are caused by improper
mounting techniques, impact with road obstructions, and excessive clamping torques on the wheel nuts.
Erosion or chipping of the bead seat of the lock ring is caused by excessive corrosion. Damaged side
rings must be replaced.
285
Brakes & Wheels
Wheel Nut Torque
Wheel-to-hub stud and nut fasteners must be replaced with parts of the
same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes
necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute
design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to
assure proper retention of these parts.
Excessive tightening of wheel stud nuts can cause erratic brake action by distorting the brake drum.
Excessive tightening of the wheel nuts can also cause wheel distortion or wheel runout. These conditions
can cause excessive tire wear. Wheel nuts must be tightened to the torque values listed in this section.
These specifications have proven to be satisfactory to ensure wheel tightness without having adverse
effects on other components. To ensure the correct torque, a large size torque wrench should be used.
A pneumatic impact wrench should only be used for the initial run-in of the nuts to allow the wheel to
properly position itself. The final tightening should be done with the torque wrench, and not beyond the
proper torque limits.
NEVER install aluminum wheels using wheel studs or nuts intended for
use with steel wheels.
286
Brakes & Wheels
Wheel Installation
WHEEL NUT TYPE TORQUE
Hub Piloted Two Piece Flange 450-500 ft lb. (oiled)
When installing front single or rear dual hub-piloted wheels, follow the instructions on the following
page.
Incorrect installation of hub-piloted wheels can result in a fatal crash

or damage to the vehicle. ALWAYS refer to the wheel manufacturer’s
manual supplied with your vehicle when installing, removing, or
servicing wheel assemblies. For Alcoa aluminum wheels, consult the
Alcoa Heavy Duty Wheel Service Manual (Form E37-13584), available
from Alcoa by calling (800) 242-9898. For Accuride steel wheels, consult
the Accuride Rim/Wheel Safety & Service Manual (Form ACC-SS1196),
available from Accuride by calling (800) 626-7096.
Do Not Lubricate
the face of the hub,
wheel face
or brake drum
Lube Here
Figure 7-15, Wheel and Hub Lubrication Points
287
Brakes & Wheels
1. Generously coat the wheel pilot or hub pads with a non-water-based lubricant to minimize cor-
rosion between the wheel and hub pilot (see Figure 7-15). Do not lubricate the hub face, wheel
face, or brake drum!
2. Slide the wheel(s) over the studs, being
careful not to damage the stud threads. Oil between flange
For dual rear wheels, align the hand holds and hex.
for valve access when placing the outer
wheel.
3. Place 2 drops of SAE 30W oil at a point Flange
between the flange and hex (see Figure
7-16) and 2 drops of SAE 30W oil on the
Hex
last few threads of each stud.
4. Snug up each of the flange nuts to about
50 ft-lb in the sequence shown in Figure Figure 7-16, 2-Piece Flange Nut Oiling Location
7-17.
5. Check wheels for proper positioning and
seating against drum.
6. Tighten the flange nuts to 450 to 500 ft-lbs using the sequence shown in Figure 7-13.
7. After 50 to 100 miles of operation, recheck the torque of all flange nuts and retorque as neces-
sary.
1
10 8
3 6
5 4
7 9
2
Figure 7-17, Wheel Nut Tightening Sequence
288
Brakes & Wheels
Tire Maintenance
One of the most important factors for safe coach operation is systematic and correct tire maintenance.
Tires not only support the weight of the coach, but they are also an integral part of the power transmis-
sion and braking systems.
Tire Inflation
Tire inflation affects the safe and economical operation of the coach. Inflate to correct pressures when
tires are cool. If tires are continually at less than the maximum load, adjust pressure downward to corre-
spond to the actual loads carried (Figure 7-18).
Never bleed tires to relieve the buildup of pressure. Tire temperature will increase when the tire is in ser-
vice, allowing for normal buildup in air pressure. The tire temperature and pressure will remain within
limits which are not harmful when used in accordance with the recommendations for load and pressure.
If excessive pressure buildup occurs, load, under-inflation, high speed, or a combination of these factors
is responsible. Use the size and type of tire which has the capacity to carry the load at the recommended
cold starting temperature.
Under-inflation is a major cause of loss of tire life expectancy. An under-inflated tire runs sluggishly,
heats up quickly because of greater flexing, and is subject to more frequent bruising. Unless the correct
air pressure is maintained, the tires will not function as designed.
Over-inflation does not compensate for overloading. It does not add strength to the tire; but it does re-
duce the ability of the tire to absorb road shock. Improperly inflated tires will affect steering, ride com-
fort, and safe operation.
Tires are designed to operate at a certain recommended inflation, which provides for normal flexing with
proper deflection and road contact surface. If flexing deviates from the norm, because of either over-in-
flation, under-inflation or overloading, proper, safe service cannot be obtained from the tire. Follow the
pressure recommendations of the tire manufacturer.
CORRECT UNDER OVER

INFLATED INFLATED
Figure 7-18, Inflation of Tires
289
Brakes & Wheels
Balanced Inflation
Balanced inflation means that all the tires on an axle maintain the same air pressure. A difference in pres-
sure between the front and rear tires may be permissible, within limits. There should not, however, be a
difference between the left and right tires on the same axle. A five psi under-inflation on a single front
tire can affect ease of steering; and can also create steering hazards. An under-inflated rear tire can affect
braking efficiency and balance. Balance tire pressures for ease of steering, comfort in riding, safety in
driving, minimum fuel consumption, and maximum tire life.
Pressure Loss
At periodic intervals, each tire should be checked for pressure loss with an accurate gauge before the
tires are brought to the correct pressure. The purpose of this check is to ascertain the exact pressure loss
in each tire. If, at the time the check is made, a definite pressure loss is discovered on any tire, an inspec-
tion of the tire should be made to discover the cause of the loss and to correct the condition if possible.
This check will establish a danger signal in the condition of the tires. The pressure loss check should
always be made with the same gauge so the test will be consistent if there is any inaccuracy in the gauge.
Tire Inspection
• Nails, small stones, bits of metal, or glass imbedded in the tread should be removed. If loss of air
results, the tire should be removed from the wheel, inspected for internal damage, and a permanent
repair made from inside the tire.
• All tire valves and extensions should be in good condition and equipped with valve caps. Use high
temperature valve cores.
• A cut or snag which exposes cord body will allow water to seep through, which may damage the
exposed cords. Dirt, water, and other materials penetrating between the tread and cord create an
abrasive action which literally separates the cord from the tread. Repair or replace the tire.
• A small hole in the tire which has not broken enough cords to weaken the cord body will allow air,
moisture, and foreign materials to penetrate and cause separation, as in the above case. Sharp or
abrasive objects left in the tire work back and forth, damaging the cords, leading to separation, and
ultimately to failure or a blowout. Separations caused by damage may occur at a point other than
the point of puncture. Repair or replace the tire.
• Abrasions are caused by rubbing or gouging by vehicle parts or road hazards. The continued abrad-
ing is hazardous as it can cause the tire to fail. The damaged part must be repaired and the dam-
aged tire repaired or replaced.
290
Brakes & Wheels
Tire Rejection Criteria
Do not mix different types of tires, such as radial, bias, and bias-belted,
on a vehicle because the vehicle handling may be seriously affected.
The following are criteria for replacing existing tires with new tires:
• Any front wheel tire which has an unrepaired fabric break or which has been repaired with a blow-
out patch or a boot.
• Any tire with a reinforcement repair to the cord body.
• Any tire which has exposed or damaged body cords.
• Any tire which has a bump, bulge, knot, or separation.
Tire Matching
Always use the same size tires on all wheels of a bus. A five percent
difference in wheel speed will cause the ABS to sense the slower turning
wheel as loosing traction, and will reduce braking pressure to that
wheel. This will cause increased stopping distance, possibly resulting in
an accident.
Unmatched rear tires will cause tire wear and scuffing and possible damage to the differential drive
unit. Match tires to within 1/2" (13 mm) of the same rolling radius or within 1.5" (38 mm) of the same
rolling circumference. The most accurate method of measuring circumference is with a steel tape prior
to mounting the tire and wheel assembly on the coach. Other methods, such as a large square, a string
gauge, a large pair of calipers, or a long wooden straight edge, may be used.
Tires in dual assemblies are matched to equalize the load between the two tires. Mismatched tires bring
about unequal distribution of load because they have different diameters or circumferences, Since both
tires rotate at the same speed, the result must be abnormal and unequal tread wear and excessive body
cord strain on one of the tires.
It is not always possible to match tires exactly. The most desirable matching is obtained by not exceed-
ing the tolerance cited above 1/2" (13 mm) radius or 1.5" (38 mm) circumference differential.
Mount the smaller of the two tires in a dual assembly in the inside position, provided the measurement is
within the allowable tolerance.
291
Brakes & Wheels
Tire Rotation
Generally it is the best practice to break in new tires on the front wheels. It is also generally advisable to
use tires with good nonskid tread design on the rear wheels.
Tires should be rotated at regular intervals so the maximum tire life is obtained. The position of tires
should be changed so that the direction of tire rotation is reversed.
Bias and Bias-Belted Tires

Change wheels without dismounting the tires so the direction of tire rotation will be reversed. The fol-
lowing system is suggested:
1. Right front to left rear inside or right rear outside.
2. If inside dual tires show more wear that the outside dual tires, place the front tires on the inside
when changing. In this case, the outside dual tires can be exchanged between the left and right
sides. If the outside dual tires show the excessive wear, place the front tires on the outside dual
tires when changing and, at the same time, interchange the right and left inside dual tires.
3. New tires should be placed on the front wheels where they run the coolest.
Tire Tubes and Flats

Tubes may fail as a result of being chafed or pinched by fabric breaks inside the tire. The direction and
shape of the tube damage will closely follow the pattern of the tire fabric break. A tire does not neces-
sarily go flat immediately when a fabric break occurs on the inside of the tire because it may take some
time for the break to chafe completely through the tube.
The tube may become chafed at a fold at the edge of the flap. When mounting tires requiring flaps, it is
essential that the flaps be properly centered between the beads to prevent folds or wrinkles. Discard flaps
which have once been twisted, creased, or folded over at the edges.
Any foreign material between the casing and the tube will cause a chafing action. In time, the tire or tube
or both will become badly damaged and fail. The result of grit, pebbles, or other hard substances which
become imbedded in the tire or tube wall will be chafing of the tube and eventual failure.
When a tube is larger than the inside of the casing it has become stretched and can become creased.
Creasing can also happen to a correctly sized tube when it is improperly mounted. If the crease occurs
in the flexing areas of the tire, the resulting additional thickness of the tube where it is folded creates a
hinging action which will cut the tube and may damage the tire fabric and result in a tire failure as well.
Tubes usually undergo some stretch or growth in service. When a used tube is mounted in a new or near-
ly new tire, a folded condition will usually result. The eventual result may be the failure of both the tire
and the tube. Therefore, it is usually more economical to ensure that new tubes are used with new tires.
292
Brakes & Wheels
Tube Maintenance
The long life and high mileage performance of modern tires will exhaust the useful life of most tubes.
Therefore, when a tire is worn to the point of being replaced, the tube is generally in the same condition
and should also be replaced.
If a valve cap is lost, clean the end of the valve before applying air so that dirt and dust will not be
blown into the tube. Install a new cap.
When inflating a tube for inspection, do not allow it to balloon. Such action stretches the tube too thin
and makes it too large to be properly installed in a tire without the danger of creasing or folding.
Make sure the valve stem does not rest against the brake drum, as excessive heat conducted from the
drum by the valve stem may damage the valve and cause possible loss of air pressure.
Mounting Tires
1. Do not gouge or nick the wheel. It is best to handle wheels on a wooden floor or rubber mat. Use
only plastic, rubber, or leather faced hammers.
2. Be sure the rim is clean when the tire is mounted. Dirt will damage the wheel, tire, and flap dur-
ing operation.
3. Always inspect the wheel for damage before mounting the tire.
4. Do not overinflate. Use the recommended tire pressures.
5. Be sure to use the proper rings for the wheel.
Demounting Tires
1. Do not gouge or nick the wheel. It is best to handle wheels on a wooden floor or rubber mat. Use
only plastic, rubber, or leather faced hammers.
2. Keep tire tools smooth and use them with care. Rim gouges or nicks occurring near the flange
may cause wheel cracks.
293
Brakes & Wheels
Wheel and Tire Balancing
It is desirable from the standpoint of tire wear and coach handling to maintain the proper balance of
front wheel and tire assemblies. All wheels intended for use on the front wheels, such as those switched
during tire rotation and those installed as new or repaired replacements, should be accurately balanced.
This may be accomplished by two types of procedures: “On Vehicle” or “Off Vehicle.” The “On Ve-
hicle” is more desirable, however, because all the rolling components (drums, bearings, seals, etc.) are
included in the balancing procedure and, therefore, any existing unbalanced condition is corrected.
Wheel balance is the equal distribution of weight of the wheel and tire assembly around the axis of rota-
tion. Wheels can be balanced “Statically” and “Dynamically.” Wheels must be balanced statically first
and then dynamically.
Static Balance
Static balancing is also called “still” balancing. It is the equal balance of the weight of the wheel and
tire around the axis of rotation so that the assembly has no tendency to rotate by itself, regardless of its
position. Static unbalance causes a hopping or pounding action (up and down) which frequently leads to
wheel flutter or wheel tramp.
Dynamic Balance
An out-of-round condition greater than 3/32" (2.4 mm) cannot be

corrected with balancing. Such an assembly is not suitable for installation
on the front axle of a coach. Check for this condition as described earlier
in this manual.
Dynamic balance is also called “running” balance. It means the wheel must be in static balance and also
run smoothly at all speeds on an axis which turns through the center line of the wheel and is perpendicu-
lar to the axis of rotation.
To ensure successful and accurate balancing, the following precautions must be attended to.
• The wheel and tire must be clean and free from all foreign matter. The tires should be in good con-
dition and properly mounted with the balance mark on the tire, if any, aligned with the valve.
• Bent wheels which have runout over 3/32" (2.4 mm) should be discarded or straightened before
balancing.
• Use of wheels on the rear axle should be governed by the condition of the assembly and whether
the roundness defect affects the quality of the ride.
• When balancing wheels and tires, it is recommended that the instructions and procedures covering
the wheel balancer be followed closely.
294
Brakes & Wheels
Correcting Irregular Tire Wear
At the first sign of uneven tire wear, check and correct all mechanical defects.
• Heel and Toe Wear: This is a saw-toothed effect where one end of each tread block is worn more
than the other end. The end that wears is the one which first grips the road when the brakes are ap-
plied.
This wear pattern is less noticeable on rear tires than on front tires, because the propelling action
of the rear wheels creates a force which tends to wear the other end of the tread blocks. The two
forces, propelling and braking, cause more even wear on the rear tires. Since only the braking
forces act on the front tires the saw tooth effect is more noticeable.
A certain amount of heel and toe wear is normal. Excessive wear is usually due to high speed driv-
ing and excessive use of brakes. The best remedy, besides altering one’s driving habits, is to rotate
tires regularly.
• Side Wear: This may be caused by incorrect wheel camber, under inflation, high-cambered roads,
or excessive cornering speeds. The first two causes are most common. Camber wear can be easily
identified because it occurs on only one side of the treads, whereas under-inflation causes wear on
both sides. Camber wear requires correction on the camber first and then the interchange (rota-
tion) of tires. Under-inflation wear requires inflation according to the load and the manufacturer’s
recommendations. There is, of course, no correction for high-cambered roads. Cornering wear is
discussed later.
• Misalignment Wear: This is wear due to excessive toe-in or toe-out. In either case, tires will re-
volve with a side motion and scrape tread off. If the misalignment is severe, rubber will be scraped
off both tires. If it is slight, only one tire will be affected. The scraping action against the face of
the tires causes a small feather edge of rubber to appear on one side of the tread. Feather edge is
a certain sign of misalignment. The remedy is readjusting the toe-in or rechecking the entire front
end alignment, if necessary.
• Cornering Wear: Cornering too fast causes the load to shift and creates uneven loading on the
tires. The rear tire on the inside may be relieved of load to the extent it slips and grinds tread off
on the inside half of the tire. The outside tire may be so overloaded that it is distorted and wears
excessively on the outside half of the tire.
Cornering wear is most easily identified by rounding of the outside edge of the tire and the rough-
ening of the tread surface, which indicates abrasion.
The only remedy to cornering wear is the proper instruction of operators. To offset normal corner-
ing wear as much as possible, interchange tires at regular intervals.
• Uneven Wear: Uneven or spotty wear is due to irregularities such as bent front suspension parts,
out-of-balance wheels, brake drums out-of-round, brakes out of adjustment, or other mechanical
conditions. The remedy in each case is locating and correcting the defect.
• Power and Speed Wear: Excessive speed is harmful to tires because speed creates heat and heat
softens tires.
• Stops and Starts: Quick stops and starts grind off tread quickly by causing flat spots which will
continue to enlarge for the life of the tire.
• Temperature: Considerably less mileage can be expected from a tire used in all-warm weather
driving as compared to all-cool weather driving.
295
Brakes & Wheels
Mechanical Irregularities
Worn wheel bearings, loose radius rods, unbalanced wheels, or wobbly wheels all will result in uneven
tire wear. In addition to these, the following conditions should be inspected (Figure 7-19).
• Toe-In: Wheels on the same axle are closer together in the front than in the rear. When toe-in is
excessive, tire wear shows feathered edges on the inside of the skid design.
• Toe-Out: Wheels on the same axle are closer together in the rear than in the front. Tire wear shows
feathered edges on the outside of the skid design.
• Camber: This designates the tilt of the wheel. Too much tilt results in excessive wear on one side
of the tire.
• Sprung or Sagging Axle: Either of these conditions causes uneven distribution of the load. A
sprung or sagging axle will cause the inside dual tire to carry a greater load.
Figure 7-19, Mechanical Irregularities
296
Brakes & Wheels
Chapter 8– Hydraulic System
The hydraulic system (1) furnishes hydraulic pressure to the steering gear to steer the front wheels and
(2) furnishes hydraulic pressure to operate the fan motor. The system consists of a fluid reservoir, pump,
steering gear, fan motor, control assembly, fluid cooler, and piping. See Figure 8-1.
Fan Drive Control Assembly

Fan Motor
Power Steering
Hydraulic Fluid Cooler Gearbox
Radiator
Water Air
Reservoir
Hydraulic Pump
20-600-40
Figure 8-1, Hydraulic System Component Location
297
Hydraulic System
System Operation
Refer to Figure 8-2. Hydraulic fluid is provided by the reservoir A . The hydraulic pump B is a tandem
unit driven by the engine, with one pump providing flow and pressure for the power steering gear and
the other providing flow and pressure directly to the engine cooling fan motor C . Fluid from the steer-
ing gear is returned directly to the reservoir.
The fluid that reaches the fan motor enters through the fan speed control valve (also known as the switch
valve),  which is a spool valve controlled by pressure in the pilot line D . The pilot line pressure is con-
trolled by the fan drive control assembly (FDCA) E .
The engine ECM monitors engine coolant and CAC (charge air cooler) temperatures and determines if
cooling is required. The engine ECM will modulate the electronic signal to the fan control FDCA. Based
upon this PWM (pulse width modulation) signal, the fan control FDCA will turn on the engine cooling
fan and adjust the cooling fan speed as directed by the PWM signal.
There are four possible operating states for the cooling fan:
1. Fan Off. When the FDCA, based on temperature input, permits unrestricted flow through the
pilot line, the pilot pressure on the fan motor’s spool valve will be very low, allowing the flow to
go around the fan motor through the bypass tube. This causes the fan speed to drop to a speed of
zero to 500 RPM, depending on engine speed and hydraulic fluid temperature.
2. Fan On (Full Speed). When the FDCA, based on temperature input, completely blocks the flow
through the pilot line, the fan motor’s spool valve will be forced to send all the flow through the
fan motor. This causes the fan to spin at maximum speed.
3. Fan On (Low Speed). If engine cooling demand, as relayed to the FDCA from the temperature
sensors, does not require full fan speed, the FDCA will restrict, but not block, the flow in the pi-
lot line. This pressurizes the pilot line, but not to full system pressure. The spool valve then sends
some flow through the fan motor and some through the bypass tube. This causes the fan to spin at
a lower rate of speed than the maximum.
4. Fire Shutdown. If the fire detection system in the engine compartment detects a fire, the FDCA
will permit full pilot line flow, causing the fan speed to drop to the “off” speed of zero to 500
RPM.
The pilot flow comes from a port in the fan speed control valve (switch valve), mounted on the fan mo-
tor. The flow is then sent directly back to the reservoir.
Fluid passing through the fan motor is sent through the hydraulic fluid cooler F and then to the reser-
voir.
298
Hydraulic System
To Power
Steering
Pump
B Fan Motor
Top View—
C
Inlet ports from
reservoir are at
bottom of pump.
Cooler
Bypass Relief
Valve 100 PSI
Cracking Pressure
2
1
D
Hydraulic
Reservoir
A Return
(marked with “t”
for tank return)
E
Fan Control Pressure Port
Valve (marked with “p”)
Power Steering
Return
Figure 8-2, Hydraulic System Schematic
299
Hydraulic System
Fan Motor Circuit Valves
Spool Valve
The spool valve is a pilot operated bypass relief valve that attaches to the fan motor. It is fully closed
when the engine is hot and fully open when the engine is cold. The control spool moves gradually from
the fully closed position to the fully open position as an effect of pilot flow routed through the spool
orifice (see Figure 8-3). The higher the pilot flow the higher the pressure drop across the spool, causing a
greater net force to compress the spool spring and opening the spool.
There are two additional components within the switching valve housing. They are (1) the pressure sen-
sitive pilot valve and (2) the anti-cavitation check valve.
The pressure sensitive pilot valve is used to limit the maximum speed of the fan. It opens at a predeter-
mined pressure level and creates a flow path through the control spool orifice. This causes the control
spool to partially open and limit maximum system pressure and, therefore, maximum fan speed.
The anti-cavitation check valve prevents cavitation that could occur when the fan overruns or windmills
in the vehicle air stream.
As a system, the spool valve and the control or thermostatic valve are open when the engine coolant
is below 194° F. This allows the oil to bypass the fan motor, causing the fan to idle. As the coolant get
hotter, both valves progressively close, causing the fan motor speed to increase gradually proportional to
temperature increase.
Spool Valve Repair

1. Thoroughly clean the exterior of the spool valve/fan motor assembly taking care to block all
ports to prevent dirt from entering.
2. Remove all port adapters.
3. Remove the valve from the motor as follows:
a. Remove the three socket capscrews securing the valve to the motor pressure port. Be careful
not to drop the screw and spring washer to the inlet port inside the valve.
b. Gently pull the valve off the motor.
4. Because the spool valve and motor are attached, cleaning the relief valves and changing the seals
are the only repairs which may be undertaken on the spool valve/fan motor unit. Replace the
seals as follows.
a. Remove the Allen screw and the pilot return union securing the cap to the valve body.
b. Discard the two O-rings in the cap together with the bonded washer on the pilot return.
c. Thoroughly clean the cap.
d. Replace the two O-rings using a little light grease to retain.
e. Carefully replace the cap, pilot return union, bonded washer, and socket cap screw.
f. Apply Locktite #242 on screw threads and torque to 21 ft-lb (28 N-m).
300
Hydraulic System
SPRING-LOADED SPOOL
ACTUATED BY PILOT FLOW
FLUID RETURN
TO TANK
PILOT FLOW TO FDCA
PILOT
RETURN UNION
ALLEN FLUID INLET FROM GEAR PUMP
SCREW
TO MOTOR (DIVERTING TO TANK)
WASHER
MOTOR MOUNTED SWITCHING VALVE
ENGINE COOLANT COLD - VALVE OPEN
O-RING SPRING-LOADED SPOOL

ACTUATED BY PILOT FLOW
NO FLUID RETURN
TO TANK
NO PILOT FLOW
TO FDCA
FLUID INLET FROM GEAR PUMP

TO MOTOR (FLUID FLOW FROM
SWITCHING VALVE INLET TO
FAN MOTOR INLET)
MOTOR MOUNTED SWITCHING VALVE

ENGINE COOLANT HOT - VALVE CLOSED 20-600-28a
Figure 8-3, Fan Motor Spool Valve Operation
301
Hydraulic System
PWM Fan Control System
The pulse width modulation (PWM) fan control system uses a Sauer-Danfoss electronic fan control
valve. This fan control valve has two parts: an electronic module that receives a PWM signal from the
engine ECM, and a proportional hydraulic control valve. The electronic module uses the PWM signal
from the engine to adjust the fan motor pilot pressure. Based upon the PWM signal from the engine, the
fan speed is modulated to match the cooling demand from the engine.
The engine ECM produces an 80Hz square wave signal with a maximum voltage of 28 VDC (engine
ECM supply voltage) and a minimum voltage of 0 VDC. The engine ECM monitors engine coolant tem-
perature and air intake manifold (CAC) temperature and adjusts the duty cycle of the PWM signal. With
a high duty cycle PWM signal (PWM signal is at maximum voltage most of the time), the fan speed is at
minimum. As the PWM duty cycle decreases (PWM signal is a 0 voltage for longer time) the fan speed
increases. At a minimum duty cycle (PWM signal at 0 volts), the fan is at maximum speed. The com-
mand fan speed is proportional to the duty cycle. At a 20% duty cycle where the PWM voltage is high
(28 volts) for 20% of the time, the commanded fan speed is 80% of the maximum fan speed possible at
the current engine speed.
Testing the PWM Signal

Using a DMM measure the PWM signal voltage. Connect one lead from a digital voltmeter (DMM)
to the PWM signal wire. Connect the other lead to an engine ground. Do not disconnect or unplug the
PWM signal to the FDCA (fan drive control assembly). Start the engine. While the engine is running and
warming up, observe the PWM voltage. Measure using the DC measurement on the DMM.
With the engine cold (coolant temperature less than 130°F), the PWM signal should be 26 VDC or
higher.
As the engine heats up, the PWM signal voltage should drop. At around 185–190°F coolant temperature,
the PWM voltage should start to drop. At a coolant temperature of 210°F or higher, the PWM signal
should be 5 VDC or less.
302
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Fan Motor
When the coolant temperature exceeds 194° F, hydraulic fluid flows through the gears of the motor, acti-
vating the fan above idle. When the coolant temperature falls below 194° F, the flow of hydraulic fluid is
diverted through a bypass passage in the fan motor, causing its operation to reduce to idle.
The hydraulic fan motor runs at varying speeds when the engine is
running. Always disconnect the battery to prevent fan motor activation
while working on the hydraulic system.
The operation of the fan motor is basically just the opposite of that of the hydraulic pump. Fluid under
pressure is released through the two pump gears of the motor. The pressure is dissipated while causing
the gears to turn the output shaft. The fan blade, which is attached to that output shaft, rotates and cools
the engine coolant flowing through the radiator core.
The fan idles at all times, even if engine coolant temperature is below
194° F. This is considered normal and is not an item for maintenance.
Fan motor control valves are preset by the manufacturer. DO NOT

attempt to adjust valve. Tampering can cause injury and possible fire due
to excess pressure causing failure of the hoses, pump, or fan motor.
303
Hydraulic System
Troubleshooting the Fan Motor Circuit
Fan Does Not Run When the Engine Reaches High POPPET
Temperature. SPRING
To determine whether the fan is failing to turn on due to de-

SHIMS
BONDED
WASHER
fective hydraulic components or due to a problem with the CAP
fan control system, do the following to, in effect, remove PILOT

RETURN
the control system from the fan motor circuit and UNION
determine the source of the problem. For this pro- SUPPLY

PORT
cedure, the fan is said to be off or “idling” at fan

CAP
ALLEN
SCREW
speeds of 0–500 RPM. The fan is said to be “on” RELIEF VALVE
at fan speeds of 1,500–2,000 RPM, depending

upon the model of engine installed on your bus.
1. Run the engine at governed speed until the
fan cut-in temperature is reached (coolant
temperature should be at least 205°F).
2. Check the fan speed using a photo
tachometer. If the fan does not turn on (spin
1,500 RPM or more), do the following: Figure 8-4, Switch Valve Relief Valve
a. Stop the engine.
b. Disconnect the pilot line to the fan control valve.
c. Block the port in the fan control valve and the line to the control valve that was disconnected
in the step above.
Blocking the pilot lines to the fan control valve ensures that the switch valve (also known as
spool valve) forces pump flow to the fan motor. With maximum flow to the fan motor, the fan
should reach its maximum speed.
This procedure can be used to operate the bus in the event a problem
exists with the fan controller or in the engine electronics. It bypasses the
electronics system entirely and provides full cooling capabilities. This
procedure should only be used in an emergency situation.
3. Run the engine at governed speed. Check the fan speed using a photo tachometer.
If the fan DOES turn on (spin at 1,500 RPM or more), the likely cause of the problem is the fan
control system.
If this speed cannot be reached, the most likely causes are listed below in order of probability:
• Defective or malfunctioning fan motor switch valve (spool valve).
• Defective pressure relief valve at fan motor.
• Defective hydraulic pump.
• Defective fan motor—could be damaged or leaking excessively inside.
304
Hydraulic System
5. Clean the switch valve relief valve to make sure that nothing is holding it open. Follow these
steps:
a. Stop the engine.
b. Unscrew the relief valve cap (Figure 8‑4).
c. Remove the bonded washer, spring, and poppet, taking care not to dislodge the shims which
are between the spring and cap.
d. Check that the relief valve seat is clean and free from dirt. Wash the relief valve poppet in a
clean solvent and examine for cracks or other damage.
e. Replace the relief valve, making sure that no contaminant is introduced into the valve. Care
should be taken to replace the original number of shims under the relief valve cap.
6. Rerun the above test. If the fan still runs at idle speed replace the switch valve assembly. If upon
replacement of the switch valve, the fan continues to run at idle speed, the pump or motor may
be severely damaged. Check the hydraulic reservoir for contamination and metal particles.
Fan Runs at “Hot” Speed When Engine is Cold

1. With the engine in the cold condition run at governed speed. Check the fan speed using the photo
tach. If the fan runs at maximum speed stop the engine and check the voltage supply to the fan
control valve to ensure that it is receiving system voltage. Any loss of power or signal to the fan
control valve will automatically run the fan at maximum speed.
2. If all connections to the fan control valve are fastened securely:
a. Disconnect the feed and return lines to the valve.
b. Using a short length of hose, connect the fan control valve feed and return points on the
switching valve together. This removes the pressure differential in the switching valve en-
suring the switch valve will bypass pump flow from the fan motor allowing it to run at idle
speed. Fan idle speed with full engine speed will be about 400 rpm or less. Hydraulic fluid
temperature should not exceed 180° F.
3. With the engine cold run at governed speed, check the fan speed. If the fan runs at idle speed,
this verifies the switch valve is operating correctly.
4. Replace the fan control valve. If this does not correct the problem, check the engine electronic
system to verify that it is sending the correct PWM signal.
305
Hydraulic System
Fan Motor Removal
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable
to ensure that the coach cannot be
started while work on the hydraulic
system is underway.
2. Prepare a catch basin for hydraulic
CHANNEL
fluid drainage. Discard any fluid

which is removed from the system. MOTOR
DO NOT reuse fluid. FAN HUB
3. See Figure 8-5. Disconnect the hose
at the bottom of the motor and al-
low the motor to drain. Turn the fan ISOLATORS
blade approximately ten turns to help

purge any fluid trapped in the gear BRACKET
teeth.
06-002-00
4. Disconnect the hoses from the con- Figure 8-5, Hydraulic Motor/Valve
trol valve which is mounted directly
on the motor. Plug or cap all fluid
system openings to preclude entry of foreign matter into the hydraulic system.
5. Disconnect the Weather-pak™ electrical connection from the valve. Mark the wires to ensure
that they are properly connected later when the motor is installed.
6. Remove the four bolts attaching the fan blade to the hub on the motor output shaft. Lay the fan
blade flat against the radiator inside the shroud.
Take care to avoid damage to the inside of the radiator core when the
fan is leaned against it.
7. Remove the two fan motor retaining bolts, washers, and locknuts. Slide the motor toward the
engine and remove it from the coach. It is easier to remove the motor from below.
306
Hydraulic System
Fan Motor Inspection and Repair
Inspect the rubber isolators installed between the motor mounting channel and the two mounting brack-
ets. If they are worn or deteriorated from exposure to oil, they should be replaced.
The hydraulic fan motor is temperature activated and may start at any
time when the engine is running. Always disconnect the battery ground
cables to preclude accidental engine start while working on the hydraulic
system.
Do not use a petroleum based lubricant to assist in working the new

isolator into the bracket. The only acceptable lubricant is a 50% mixture
of liquid detergent and water.
1. Remove the bolts, washers, and locknuts attaching the brackets to the channel.
2. Push the old isolators out of the bracket and install new isolators.
3. Position the channel between the brackets and install the bolts, washers, and locknuts. Tighten
the locknuts to 40–45 ft-lb (55–65 N-m) torque.
Fan Hub Removal

If the hub is to be replaced, follow the steps below for removal and installation of the hub.
Do not strike the end of the shaft with a hammer. Do not use heat to
attempt to loosen the hub from the shaft. Either of these techniques may
cause internal damage to the motor and could require replacement of
the motor.
1. With the motor held firmly in a soft jaw vise, remove the locknut and large flat washer from the
output shaft of the motor.
2. Use a proper puller to remove the hub from the shaft.
Fan Hub Installation

1. Place the hub on the motor output shaft, making sure the key is properly in place.
2. Install the washer and locknut on the hub and tighten the nut to 60–70 ft-lb (80–95 N-m) torque.
307
Hydraulic System
Fan Motor Installation
system.
The hydraulic fan motor has a control valve that is preset by the
manufacturer. DO NOT attempt to adjust this valve. Tampering can
cause injury and possible fire due to excess pressure causing failure of
the hoses, pump, or fan motor.
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable to ensure that the coach cannot be started while work on the
hydraulic system is underway.
2. Insert the fan motor and valve assembly into the mounting channel with the valve on top. Install
the attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 110–125 ft-lb (150–170 N-m) torque
3. Install the fan blade on the hub and tighten the four mounting bolts to 40–45 ft-lb (55–65 N-m)
torque.
4. Connect the electrical leads from the control valve solenoid to the proper connectors in the har-
ness.
5. Connect the hoses to their proper ports. Take care to ensure that no dirt or other foreign matter is
allowed into the system.
6. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system as described in “Bleeding the Power Steering Hydraulic Sys-
tem” later in this chapter.
308
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Pump
The hydraulic pump distributes hydraulic fluid to the steering gear and the hydraulic fan motor. The
hydraulic pump mounts on, and is driven from, the rear of the air compressor.
Operation
The hydraulic pump is a tandem gear type pump which has two separate in-line hydraulic gear pumps.
The larger pump at the front of the pump provides hydraulic fluid for the engine cooling fan motor. The
smaller pump at the rear of the tandem pump provides the hydraulic fluid to the power steering gear. The
power steering pump circuit in the tandem pump includes a pressure relief valve set to relieve at 2175
PSI, and a flow control valve to limit the power steering flow to 3.2 to 4.0 GPM. There is no pressure
relief valve for the fan motor circuit in the pump. Pressure relief for the fan motor circuit is provided by
a relief valve at the motor.
system.
The hydraulic fan motor has a control valve that is preset by the
manufacturer. DO NOT attempt to adjust this valve. Tampering can
cause injury and possible fire due to excess pressure causing failure of
the hoses, pump, or fan motor.
Hydraulic Fluid
The fluid in the hydraulic system is selected to accomplish all of the various demands placed on it by the
system performance parameters. Please refer to the “Fluid Specifications” section of the Specifications
chapter for the type of fluid to use in the hydraulic system.
309
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Pump Removal
Never reuse fluid which has been drained from the system. Whenever
fluid is added to the hydraulic system, ensure it is new fluid from a closed
container.
1. Place a clean container under the pump supply and return ports to catch fluid, then disconnect the
fittings and remove the lines.
2. Remove the bolts and washers attaching the pump and adapter to the engine. Use care to ensure
that the drive gear and key are removed with the pump.
3. Remove the pump and adapter coupling from the engine.
Hydraulic Pump Installation

1. Position a new gasket on the gasket surface of the air compressor.
2. Carefully install the pump into the opening at the engine front cover so that the spline driveshaft
engages within the splined gear.
3. Install the two bolts and washers that attach the pump to the air compressor. Tighten the bolts to
100–110 ft-lb (135–150 N-m) torque.
4. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system as described in “Bleeding the Power Steering Hydraulic Sys-
tem” later in this chapter.
310
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Pump Overhaul
The manufacturer of the hydraulic pump and fan motor requires that overhaul of the pump and motor
be accomplished only by personnel trained and experienced in hydraulic system mechanics and main-
tenance. Warranty considerations may be voided if work is done by unqualified personnel. Detailed
written instruction of the type and nature of that provided for the power steering gear has not been made
available for the disassembly, repair, inspection, and reassembly of the hydraulic pump and fan motor.
It is recommended that neither the hydraulic pump nor the hydraulic

fan motor be disassembled by maintenance personnel until and unless
such personnel have been familiarized with the specific details and
techniques of the maintenance procedures on these units. Failure to
follow all proper procedures may result in damage to the equipment
with the possibility of steering or cooling system failure.
These two components require hydraulic system expertise and close attention to detail in order to ac-
complish overhaul and repair with reasonable assurance that the completed device will perform accord-
ing to expectation.
A seal and gasket kit is available from the Gillig Parts Division to use in minor overhauls of the pump or
fan motor. The user is cautioned that even this kit should be used only by those mechanics and mainte-
nance personnel who are experienced in, and familiar with, hydraulic systems and their components.
Accordingly, Gillig Corporation, in this manual, will limit repair and maintenance procedures to removal
and installation of the two components.
311
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic System Reservoir
The reservoir contains a filter and screen to keep foreign matter and dirt from entering either the pump,
the fan motor, or the steering gear.
The hydraulic fluid must be checked daily for proper level and
cleanliness, just as are the engine and transmission lubricating and
cooling fluids. Use only the type of hydraulic fluid specified in the
Specifications chapter of this manual.
The reservoir is mounted in the right rear corner of the coach, in the engine compartment.
Hydraulic Fluid Replacement

Hydraulic fluid should be replaced according to the intervals given in the Preventive Maintenance chap-
ter of this manual. Follow the recommendations of the “Fluid Specifications” section of this manual’s
Specifications chapter.
To drain the hydraulic fluid, disconnect the suction hose (the largest hose, size #20 or #24), and drain
from the bottom of the reservoir. Removing other hoses throughout the hydraulic system in order to
drain all of the hydraulic fluid in the system is not necessary, and it can cause air go get into the steering
gear.
When adding fluid to the reservoir, secure a 200 mesh wire screen inside a funnel and pour the fluid into
the reservoir through the dipstick/filler cap opening.
Check the fluid level by removing the dipstick attached to the filler cap. Wipe the dipstick and reinsert it
into the reservoir. Remove the dipstick a second time and observe the level indicated. If the level ob-
served is between the “FULL” and “ADD” marks, there is adequate and sufficient fluid in the system. If
the fluid level gets below the “ADD” mark (for over 5 seconds), the low-fluid sensor in the reservoir will
cause the “LOW FLUID (HYD)” indicator lamp on the indicator lamp strip above the dash to light.
Filter Element Replacement

The filter inside the hydraulic system reservoir should be replaced according to the intervals given in the
Preventive Maintenance chapter of this manual. To change the filter element, do the following:
1. Wipe the reservoir cover exterior surface clean of dirt or other foreign matter.
2. Remove the two bolts and the clamp band which secures the reservoir cover to the body (Figure
8-6).
3. Lift the top of the reservoir off. Remove the retainer, spring, and wing nut securing the old filter
element. Wipe the interior of the reservoir cover clean with a lint free cloth.
4. Install a new element, then install the retainer, spring, and wing nut to secure the element.
5. Reinstall the cover, clamp band, and bolts, washers, and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 12–18 ft-lb
(16–24 N-m) torque.
6. Fill and bleed the hydraulic system as described in “Bleeding the Hydraulic System” later in this
chapter.
312
Hydraulic System
Breather
Dipstick
Clamp
Reservoir
Filter
Plug
Low Fluid
Sensor
Note: Shown is a 9 qt reservoir, which uses one

filter element. If your bus has a 16 qt hydraulic
reservoir, note that it uses three filter elements.
Change all elements at the same time.
Case Drain &

Control Valve
Return
Steering Gear
Return
Pump Supply
(Suction Line)
Fan Motor Return
Figure 8-6, Hydraulic Reservoir
313
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic System Cooler
The hydraulic fluid cooler is integral to the radiator. To service the hydraulic fluid cooler, the whole ra-
diator assembly must be removed from the bus. Consult the “Radiator” section in the Engine chapter for
radiator removal instructions.
Power Steering Hydraulic System Diagnosis

The power steering system is dependent upon adequate fluid pressure and flow to enable the steering
gear to operate as designed. Fluid pressure reacting on a piston creates the force to cause the piston to
move and assist the steering effort.
As the piston moves, it is displaced in the cylinder bore by a volume of fluid under pressure. How fast
the piston can be displaced is dependent upon adequate fluid flow and volume. Refer to the “Specifica-
tions” section of this manual for hydraulic pump specifications.
Back pressure and operating temperature must be considered during the diagnosis of power steering
problems. High back pressure will restrict movement of the piston in the steering gear. This back pres-
sure must be overcome before steering power is available. Back pressure is caused by restrictions to
fluid flow. Undersized replacement fittings and lines, pinched lines, and high flow rates are possible
causes of back pressure.
High system fluid temperatures reduce the overall efficiency of the pump and steering gear. High tem-
peratures are caused by restriction of flow or inadequate system fluid capacity to allow for heat dissipa-
tion during normal operation. A supply pump which constantly operates at maximum pressure relief will
also generate more heat than can be dissipated.
Pressure Gauges and Testing

Various types of pressure gauges and flow meters are available and can be used to diagnose power steer-
ing problems. A pressure gauge which reads at least 3,000 psi (20,685 kPa) and a flow meter with a ca-
pacity of 10 gpm are needed to check pressures and flow. A shut-off valve downstream from the pressure
gauge makes it possible to isolate the hydraulic pump from the steering gear and, by closing the valve,
maximum pump relief pressure can be read.
A thermometer in the reservoir will indicate system fluid temperature.
The gauge set will indicate pressure (psi) and flow (gpm) with a single connection in series with the high
pressure line to the steering gear. A shut-off valve is included.
314
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic Pressure Test
1. Before you start this test, make sure the bus is safely parked and the engine is off. Place ther-
mometer in reservoir.
2. Disconnect the pressure hose going to the power steering gear. Be prepared to catch fluid drain-
ing when the line is disconnected.
3. Connect the pressure gauge/flow meter assembly between the pressure line and the steering gear,
and leave the valve and the pressure gauge assembly open. See Figure 8-7.
4. Bleed the hydraulic system to remove all air from the pressure line as instructed under “Bleeding
the Power Steering Hydraulic System” later in this chapter.
5. Start the engine and run at idle speed. Turn the front wheel through the normal operating range
several times until the hydraulic fluid reaches 140 °F (60° C). Then close the valve in the pres-
sure gauge line and observe the pressure gauge reading. The pressure reading should be 2175 ±
50 PSI. Do not leave the valve closed for more than 5 seconds.
6. Open the valve in the pressure gauge line. Turn the wheels to the extreme left and right against
the wheel stops (with the wheels on the ground). At the extreme right and left position, the gauge
should read about 400–600 psi less than the relief pressure.
7. If the pump pressure is less than the amount specified, make repairs as instructed in the “Hydrau-
lic Pump Overhaul” section earlier in this chapter.
8. If the pump pressure is satisfactory, shut off the engine and remove the pressure checking gauge.
9. Reconnect the pressure hose to the hydraulic pump. Bleed the system as before, following the
procedure in “Bleeding the Power Steering Hydraulic System.”
STEERING
GEAR
PUMP LINES TO AND

FROM HYDRAULIC
RESERVOIR
PRESSURE
VALVE
GAUGE
06-078-06
FLOW METER
Figure 8-7, Check Hydraulic Pressure
315
Hydraulic System
Power Steering Flow Test
Minimum Recommended Flow
With the engine running at the specified idle speed, vehicle stationary on the shop floor, and with a
normal load on the front axle, steer the wheels from full right to full left turn and observe the flow meter.
The flow must not fall below the minimum 3–4 GPM flow specification. Leave the gauge assembly
valve fully open.
Maximum Recommended Flow

Increase the engine speed to about 1,500 RPM and note the flow rate with the steering wheel station-
ary. Check this reading against the maximum flow rate (5 GPM) specifications. Excessive fluid flow can
cause damage to the internal parts of the steering gear. Leave the gauge assembly valve fully open to
measure the flow.
Keep your fingers clear of the axle stops and spacer block during this
test. Make sure that the spacer block contacts the axle stop squarely,
which will prevent breaking the axle stops or dangerous ejection of the
spacer block.
Leakage Test
If the supply pump is performing to specification, install a 1/2" spacer between the axle stops on one
side and turn the steering wheel hard in the direction necessary to pinch the spacer block. Record the
maximum pressure reading. The maximum pressure reading should be within 100 psi of the pressure
recorded in Step 5, Pressure Relief. Remove the spacer and repeat the test in the opposite direction,
recording the pressure.
If the pressure does not meet the recorded maximum pressure reading, the steering gear is worn inter-
nally and must be repaired or replaced.
The flow must be checked at normal operating temperature and with

a load on the front axle, or steering response complaints may not be
found. Inadequate flow will cause binding and uneven or intermittently
hard steering.
316
Hydraulic System
Back Pressure
Normal system back pressure will be 25 to 75 psi with the engine idling and the steering wheel station-
ary. Check the back pressure with the system at normal operating temperature.
Heat build up can be caused by abnormally high back pressure. Restrictions in fittings, too many fittings
in a line, or a line that is too long and too small in diameter to carry the fluid flow can contribute to high
back pressure.
Operating Temperature
The steering system fluid temperature is best checked after two hours of normal operation. An ideal
operating temperature should range between 140° and 160° F (60° to 71° C). Normal operation in this
range will allow for intermittently higher temperatures which will be encountered during periods of
heavy steering usage.
Aerated Fluid
Visually check for the presence of air mixed with the fluid in the steering system. The fluid should be
clear. Any signs of frothing indicate air entry and steering performance will be affected. Carefully check
for leakage on the suction side of the hydraulic pump. Drain and refill the system and bleed for air fol-
lowing the procedure under final adjustment.
Before any steering gear repairs are attempted, the above hydraulic supply evaluations should be com-
pleted and corrections made as required.
317
Hydraulic System
Bleeding/Filling Power Steering Hydraulic System
When any hydraulic system lines have been disconnected or the steering gear, hydraulic pump, reservoir,
fan motor, cooler, or fan control valve has been removed, the hydraulic system must be bled before the
vehicle is operated again. When you air bleed a steering system, you are simply allowing air trapped in
the cavities of the steering gear to escape.
Filling
When adding fluid to the system take care to use only the fluid recommended in the “Fluid Specifica-
tions” section of the Specifications chapter this manual and ensure that the fluid is clean. It is recom-
mended that the fluid added be screened through 200 mesh wire screen.
Manual Bleed Screw

5/16 Hex Head
Torque 45 in-lb
Figure 8-8, Manual Bleed Screw Location
Bleeding Procedure
Make sure poppets are set correctly before beginning this procedure.
1. Fill the hydraulic reservoir nearly full. Do not steer.
2. Run the engine for 10 seconds (without steering) and then turn it off.
3. Check the reservoir, and refill if the fluid level has dropped.
318
Hydraulic System
4. Repeat these steps at least three times, checking and refilling the reservoir each time.
Do not allow the fluid level to drop significantly or run out of the
reservoir. This may induce air into the system.
5. Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes. Do not steer. Shut off the engine and check the fluid
level in the reservoir.
6. Start the engine again. Steer the vehicle from full left to full right several times.
7. Again, check the fluid level in the reservoir.
8. With the engine idling, steer from full left turn to full right turn several times. Stop steering with
the wheels pointed straight ahead and loosen the manual bleed screw 2–3 turns. (See Figure 8-8)
for location.
Do not turn steering wheel with the bleed screw loosened.

9. Allow air and aerated fluid to “bleed out” until fluid appears without bubbles.
10. Close the bleed screw and refill the reservoir if required.
11. Repeat steps 8 through 10 three or four times until all the air is discharged. Torque the manual
bleed screw to 45 in-lb using a torque wrench with a 5/16" socket.
319
Hydraulic System
Steering System
The steering system consists of the steering wheel, steering column and shaft assembly, power steer-
ing gear, pitman arm, drag link, and tie rod. A gear type hydraulic pump, reservoir, and interconnecting
system lines and hoses are also used in the system.
The steering gear assembly is mounted on a bracket attached between the forward two outriggers on the
left side of the chassis, directly beneath the driver’s platform. The steering column extends through the
floor and, using a universal joint, attaches directly to the input shaft of the steering gear. The upper end
of the steering shaft has the steering wheel attached, using a hardened washer and lock nut. The horn
contact, spring, and button are mounted in the hub of the steering wheel.
The frame mounted steering gear is a recirculating ball type and contains an integral power cylinder and
control valves. A hydraulic supply line connects the steering gear to the hydraulic pump and a return line
routes fluid from the steering gear back to the reservoir.
The steering gear hydraulic system is equipped with two poppet valves, one at each end of the rack pis-
ton, to allow pressure relief when the steered wheel approaches the axle stops. The tripped valve reduces
pressure in the gear box and thus helps to reduce heat generated by the pump and prolongs the service
life of the gear and pump.
Routine Maintenance
The power steering system requires little maintenance; however, the system should be kept clean to
ensure maximum operating performance and trouble free service. Periodic inspections should be made
to check for leaks.
At regular intervals, check the fluid level in the reservoir and add fluid as needed. Refer to the “Hydrau-
lic System Reservoir” section earlier in this chapter for the method of checking and filling the reservoir.
The Lubrication and Maintenance section will list the type of fluid to be used and the recommended fluid
replacement interval.
The fluid reservoir assembly is located in the right corner of the engine compartment. When the slight-
est evidence of dirt, sludge, or water is discovered in the system, disconnect the fluid lines at the steering
gear and drain the system. Refill the system with the recommended fluid.
Air in the fluid system will cause “spongy” action and noisy operation. When any hose has been discon-
nected or when fluid has been lost for any reason, the system must be bled. Bleed the system as de-
scribed in “Bleeding the Power Steering Hydraulic System.”
320
Hydraulic System
Maintenance Suggestions
• Never high-pressure wash or steam clean a power steering gear while on or off the vehicle, as this
can force contaminants inside the gear and cause it to malfunction.
• Make sure vehicle wheel cut or clearances meet specifications, and that pitman arm timing marks
are aligned properly to prevent internal bottoming of the steering gear.
• Regularly check the fluid and the fluid level in the hydraulic fluid reservoir.
• Keep tires inflated to correct pressure.
• Never use a torch to remove the pitman arm.
• Investigate and immediately correct the cause of any play, rattle, or shimmy in any part of the
steering system.
• Make sure the steering column is properly aligned.
• Encourage drivers to report any malfunctions or accidents that could have damaged steering com-
ponents.
• Do not attempt to weld any broken steering component. Replace the component with original
equipment only.
• Do not cold straighten, hot straighten, or bend any steering system component.
• Always clean around the reservoir filler cap before you remove it. Prevent dirt or other foreign
matter from entering the hydraulic system.
• Investigate and correct any external leaks, no matter how minor.
• Replace reservoir filters according to the maintenance schedule.
• If the vehicle is developing excessively high hydraulic fluid temperatures, consult with Gillig Field
Service for recommendations.
• Maintain grease pack behind the output shaft dirt and water seal as a general maintenance proce-
dure at least twice a year, in the Spring and Fall. A grease fitting is provided in the housing trun-
nion. Use only NLGI grade 2 or 3 multipurpose chassis lube, and use only a hand operated grease
gun on the fitting. Add grease until it begins to extrude past the sector shaft dirt and water seal.
321
Hydraulic System
Steering Gear Removal or Replacement
Removal
1. Block the coach body securely to prevent the coach from lowering and block the rear wheels to
prevent it from rolling.
Before going under the coach, block the coach body as explained in
“Jacking and Towing” in the Introduction to this manual. Block the
body so that it cannot lower onto anyone under the coach should the air
pressure in the front suspension be released.
2. Thoroughly clean off all outside dirt and grease from the gear, especially in the area of the hose
connections.
3. Disconnect the hydraulic supply and return lines from the steering gear. Be prepared to catch
spills from the lines and gear when the hoses are disconnected. Immediately plug or cap the lines
and the ports in the steering gear.
4. Disconnect the steering column lower U-joint following the procedure in “Steering Column Re-
moval” later in this chapter. Do not pound the universal joint or input shaft coupling on or off the
input shaft, as internal damage to the steering gear can result.
A chisel will help loosen the pitman arm. Use a puller if you cannot
remove the pitman arm with your hands.
If using a chisel to spread the pitman arm boss to loosen the pitman
arm for removal, keep a firm grip on the chisel. Failure to do this may
result in the chisel flying loose and causing injury. Never leave the chisel
wedged in the pitman arm boss. If you cannot remove the pitman arm
from the shaft with chisel and your hands, use a puller.
5. Remove the pitman arm nut, bolt, and arm from the sector shaft and record or mark the radial
position of the pitman arm to the sector shaft prior to removal of the pitman arm. Add alignment
marks to the arm and shaft, if necessary, to ensure correct alignment at reassembly.
6. Remove the four nuts from the bolts attaching the steering gear to the steering gear mounting
bracket at the front of the coach.
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Hydraulic System
The steering gear is heavy. Exercise caution when you remove, lift, or
carry it.
7. Position a suitable dolly-type support to catch and hold the steering gear as it is being removed.
Do not get caught between the gear and the coach or the gear and the ground while the steering
gear is being removed from its mounting bracket. Support the gear in the dolly and lower and
remove it from the coach.
8. Adjust the turning angle and steering linkage as explained in “Turning Angle Adjustment” in the
Suspension chapter.
Installation
1. Block the coach body securely to prevent the coach from lowering and block the rear wheels to
prevent the coach from rolling.
Before going under the coach, block the coach body as explained in
“Jacking and Towing” earlier in this manual. Block the body so that it
cannot lower onto anyone under the coach should the air pressure in the
front suspension be released.
2 Use a suitable dolly to support the steering gear as you install it on the chassis mounting bracket.
3. Install the five mounting bolts. Tighten the four 3/4" bolts to 295 ft-lb and the 7/8" bolt to 435
ft-lb.
4. Install the pitman arm on the sector shaft.
Output shaft rotation must not exceed 29° travel (1.6 input revolutions)
from the center position defined by alignment of the timing marks until
the gear, pitman arm, and drag link are attached.
5. Install the lower steering column shaft yoke on the steering gear input shaft according to the pro-
cedure in “Steering Column Installation” later in this chapter.
6. Remove the protective caps and plugs from the hoses and gear and connect the hydraulic fluid
supply and return lines to the appropriate ports of the gear.
7. Before operating the steering gear, fill the system with the recommended fluid and bleed air from
the system following the instructions in “Bleeding the Power Steering Hydraulic System” found
earlier in this chapter.
8. Adjust the turning angle and steering linkage as explained in “Turning Angle Adjustment” in the
Suspension chapter.
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Hydraulic System
Servicing and Overhauling the Steering Gear
For detailed information on servicing, troubleshooting, and overhauling the hydraulic steering gear, refer
to the TRW Steering Gear Service Manual and TRW’s “Chart Your Way to Easy Steering” publication.
Do not attempt to repair or overhaul the hydraulic power steering gear

without referring to service instructions in this manual or in service
literature provided by TRW.
To order service literature from TRW call or write to:

TRW Commercial Steering Division
800 Heath Street
P.O. Box 60
Lafayette IN 47904
(765) 423-5377
Hose Replacement
Gillig recommends replacing hoses with complete assemblies as specified in your Parts Manual. This
will ensure that the replacement hose will meet the required specification.
When replacing a hose assembly with a replacement not supplied by

Gillig:
1. The replacement hose must meet or exceed the pressure and
temperature rating of the original hose.
2. The replacement hose must be the same hose size.
3. The replacement hose must be suitable for the application and
compatible with the fluid used.
4. The hose end fitting flare type must match the original hose.
Depending upon the hose size and application, an SAE 45 degree
flare or a JIC 37 degree flare will be used. Hoses #12 and larger all
use the JIC 37 degree flare. Hoses #10 and smaller can use either
flare type, depending upon the application.
5. When rebuilding hoses with reusable hose ends, do not mix hose ends
and hoses from different manufacturers. Example an Aeroquip hose
must use only Aeroquip hose ends.
324
Hydraulic System
Diagnosis of Problems
Whenever steering complaints are encountered it is important that the complete steering system be
inspected. The steering system consists of the power steering gear, the hydraulic pump, the reservoir, the
steering column, and the connecting steering linkage. The front axle and suspension system components,
as well as the front wheels and tires, must also be considered part of the overall steering system.
DO NOT GO UNDER THE COACH TO SERVICE OR REPAIR

STEERING, AXLE, OR SUSPENSION COMPONENTS WITHOUT
FIRST PLACING SAFETY BLOCKS UNDER THE COACH BODY.
Refer to “Jacking and Towing” in the general information section for
jacking procedures and recommended placement of front and rear
safety blocks.
Steering performance can be affected by misalignment anywhere in the overall steering system. Other
factors outside the steering system itself can also contribute to poor steering performance. The logical
sequence for determining the source of a steering problem is provided below.
Define the Complaint • Interview the driver.

• Drive the vehicle.
Visual Inspection • Check tires for mismatch and proper air pressure.
• Check for sagging or shifted suspension parts.
Mechanical Components • Check all front axle components for wear, looseness, or seizure.
• Inspect front and rear suspension components.
• Check steering gear mounting to be sure it is tight and not shifting on
the mounting bracket
• Inspect steering column components.
Inspect Hydraulic System • Evaluate hydraulic system performance.

• Ensure hydraulic fluid pressure and flow are within specification.
325
Hydraulic System
Hydraulic / Steering System Troubleshooting
Problem: Fluid leakage at output shaft of steering gear

Possible Cause Remedy
A. Clogged filter in reservoir (high Replace hydraulic filter element. Reduce filter
back pressure) change interval.
B. Pinched or restricted fluid return Locate and correct restrictions. Check back
line pressure.
C. Damaged seal Replace seal assembly.
D. Damaged roller bearings Remove roller bearings. Polish output shaft or
replace to remove pitting and grooving in seal
area.
Problem: Fluid leakage at actuating shaft of steering gear

A. Worn or damaged seal Replace seal
B. Damaged actuating shaft seal Replace damaged parts. Lubricate bearing cap
surface more frequently.
Problem: Hydraulic pump making noise

A. Restricted or partially clogged Pump must receive intake fluid freely or cavitation
intake filter will result. Drain system, clean intake line and
strainers. Add new fluid and strainer by recom-
mended procedures.
B. Air leak at pump intake piping Test by pouring fluid on joints and around drive-
joints or seal shaft. Listen for change in operation. Tighten
joints and replace pump shaft seal.
C. Coupling misalignment Align and replace oil seal and bearings if damaged
by shaft misalignment.
D. Reservoir or manifold seal leakage Leakage between manifold or reservoir at replen-
ishing hole due to O-ring damage. Reservoir inlet
tube to pump cover O-ring should be carefully
examined for damage and replaced if necessary.
326
Hydraulic System
Problem: Fluid leaking at supply pump
A. Damaged seal Replace seal
B. Seal damaged by heat Check operating temperature. Repair pump.
Problem: Hydraulic fluid milky or white in appearance

A. Water entry through reservoir Clean vent system or replace cap venting
system assembly.
Problem: Hydraulic fluid forced out of reservoir

A. Air in system Bleed air from system
B. Faulty supply pump (cavitation) Check pump according to instructions in “Power
Steering Hydraulic System Diagnosis” section.
C. Steering gear relief plungers not Adjust relief plungers
properly adjusted
D. Operating temperature high Check pump according to instructions in “Power
Steering Hydraulic System Diagnosis” section.
Problem: Hydraulic fluid discolored or smells bad

A. Operating temperatures high Check and correct cause for overheating. Look for
restrictions.
B. Fluid change intervals too long Increase fluid inspection/change frequency.
C. Incorrect fluid used Drain, flush, and refill with proper fluid.
Problem: High operating temperature

A. Fluid flow restriction Check back pressure.
B. Fluid flow too high Check maximum fluid flow.
327
Hydraulic System
Problem: Foaming hydraulic fluid in reservoir
A. Air leak in suction side of pump See pump servicing instructions.
B. Pump cavitating Check for restrictions in pump supply.
C. Fluid overheating See “High operating temperature,” above.
D. Incorrect fluid Change to correct fluid.
Problem: Excessive pump pressure with steering gear in neutral position

A. Pinched return line Relocate return line.
B. Binding steering column Repair steering column.
C. Damaged actuating shaft bearing Replaced damaged parts.
Problem: Erratic steering or no steering at all

A. Insufficient volume insufficient Repair priority valve and remove foreign matter or
volume or flow rate of fluid being burrs. Refer to pump servicing instructions.
provided by the hydraulic pump.
Problem: Hard steering

A. Faulty supply pump, low flow rate, Check pump according to instructions in “Power
or low pressure relief setting Steering Hydraulic System Diagnosis” section.
B. Faulty steering geometry Align front end.
C. High operating temperature Locate and correct cause of overheating.
D. Bent or damaged king pins and tie Repair or replace king pins and tie rods.
rods
E. Low fluid level in hydraulic system Fill hydraulic fluid reservoir as required.
F. Air in system Bleed system and check for source of air contami-
nation.
G. Metal or foreign matter caught in Remove actuating valve. Clean and check parts
actuating valve for damage.
H. Actuating valve worn Replace damaged parts as required.
I. Metal or foreign matter in relief Remove piston and clean relief valve seats or
ball seat in piston of steering gear. replace damaged parts.
J. Foreign material in relief valve Clean relief valve.
328
Hydraulic System
Problem: Steering input seizing or binding
A. Worn column bearings Replace bearings.
B. Worn universal joint Check and replace as required.
C. Lack of lubrication Lubricate per instructions.
D. Low fluid flow Check and adjust idle speed. Check and adjust
drive belt tension. Repair or replace faulty supply
pump.
E. Pump cavitating Check fluid supply and replace fluid as needed.
Correct cause of fluid loss.
F. Overheating Find cause of overheating and correct.
Problem: Darting, wandering, oversteering

A. Fluid flow too high Hydraulic pump not operating to specs. Check
flow rate, and replace pump if too high.
B. Air trapped in steering gear Bleed hydraulic system.
C. Loose or worn front end parts Check and repair/replace parts as needed.
D. Excessive wear or damage in Check and repair as required.
steering gear or column
E. Mechanical bind in steering col- Bleed hydraulic system.
umn
F. Tight tie rod ends and drag link Check and repair/replace parts as needed.
sockets
G. Front end alignment incorrect Align front end caster
329
Hydraulic System
Problem: Excessive backlash
A. Worn universal joint Replace universal joint.
B. Low fluid volume Check priority valve and pump.
C. Improperly adjusted drag link, pit- Adjust drag link, drag link to pitman arm, and
man arm to drag link, and steering drag link to steering arm.
arm to drag link.
D. Loose or damaged steering gear Check bracket for wear and looseness. Replace
mounting bracket bracket if necessary and tighten to recommended
torque rating.
E. Rack on piston damaged Replace parts as required.
F. Damaged pinion gear on output Replace pinion gear.
shaft
G. Damaged output shaft splines Replace output shaft.
H. Worn output shaft bushings Replace bushings and polish output shaft.
I. Worn pitman arm splines Replace worn parts.
J. Worn actuating shaft and valve Replace worn parts as required.
threads
K. Universal joint loose on actuating Repair or replace damaged parts. Check for spline
shaft wear.
Problem: No attempt to return to straight ahead from turns

A. No positive caster Check and adjust caster.
B. Steering column binding Check and repair U-joints and support bearings.
C. Linkage ball sockets seized or Check and repair/replace.
binding
D. King pins seized or binding Check and repair/replace.
E. Knuckle clearance not adjusted Adjust clearance to specs.
properly
F. Fluid flow rate incorrect Check and correct supply pump controls.
330
Hydraulic System
Chapter 9– Electrical System
The coach has a split voltage electrical system. 12VDC (nominal) is utilized for antilock brakes, exterior
lighting, fare boxes, P.A. systems, etc. Most of the other systems on the coach utilize 24VDC (nomi-
nal). A 100 amp battery equalizer is installed between the two 12V batteries to insure equal charge and
discharge of the batteries.
Improved coach systems control is achieved by the use of a Dinex programmable logic multiplexing
control system. “Front to rear” wire is reduced since most of the control information is broadcast on a
twisted pair network cable. Logic relays are virtually eliminated and replaced by module programming.
Troubleshooting is quick and easy since all system inputs and outputs illuminate a corresponding indica-
tor.
There are no electrical schematics in this Service Manual. A separate Electrical Schematics Manual
has been prepared and is included in the package of publications supplied to the user. The Electrical
Schematics Manual identifies circuits and components, provides component schematics and terminal
identification, and includes complete wiring diagrams for each circuit.
Always turn off the battery disconnect switch (see below) before doing
any work on any part of the electrical system.
Battery
Battery Maintenance
Today’s buses make more electrical load demands than ever before. Batteries play an essential role in
meeting this increased electrical demand, from starting the engine to providing power when the engine is
not running. When electrical loads exceed the charging system capacity, batteries provide the additional
current. Batteries also act as a voltage stabilizer for the electrical system.
All batteries, including so-called maintenance-free batteries, require maintenance. Although batteries
appear uncomplicated, they can be one of the most dangerous components on the bus. Please see
“Battery Maintenance Warnings” on the following page.
Gillig bus electrical systems provide 12 and 24 nominal volts. Two 12-volt conventional type batter-
ies are located on slide-out trays in the battery compartment. The battery compartment is located on the
front left side of the coach. The batteries are 8D flooded lead acid batteries with vent caps for electrolyte
maintenance.
Gillig recommends maintaining these batteries at regular PM’s or at least every three months.
If operated in high-temperature environments, this service may need to be more frequent.
331
Electrical System
Battery Maintenance Warnings
Observe the following warnings to avoid personal injury when working near a battery.
• Batteries produce explosive gasses, contain corrosive acid, and

supply levels of electrical current strong enough to cause burns.
Take precautions to protect yourself from injury. When servicing the
battery, wear a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. Do not wear
jewelry, especially rings and chains.
• Low electrolyte levels in batteries result in accelerated battery-grid
growth, which increases the potential for inter-cell rupture and
sparking, battery explosion, and fire.
• Do not allow flames, sparks, or lighted substances to come near the
battery. Always provide proper ventilation. Do not smoke near a
battery. An off-gassing battery produces hydrogen and oxygen, which
are explosive. During normal charging and discharging of the battery,
these gasses are present. The electrolyte in a battery is not pure sulfuric
acid. It is diluted with water (H2O).
• Keep batteries out of reach of children. Batteries contain sulfuric
acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, or clothing. Shield your eyes when
working near the battery to protect against possible splashing of acid
solution. In case of acid contact with skin or eyes, flush immediately
with water for a minimum of 15 minutes and get prompt medical
attention. If acid is swallowed, call a physician immediately.
• Do not allow metal tools to contact both the positive (red, “+”) battery
terminal (or any metal connected to this terminal) and any other metal
on the vehicle at the same time.
• Do not use a damaged or defective battery.
• Always replace batteries in matched “state of charge,” age, and
manufacturer P/N pairs.
• When lifting a plastic-cased battery, excessive pressure on the end walls
could cause acid to flow through the vent caps, resulting in personal
injury and/or damage to the vehicle or battery. Lift the battery with a
battery carrier or with your hands on opposite corners.
• Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead
compounds. Wash hands after handling.
• Never add sulfuric acid to a battery! Use ONLY distilled water.
332
Electrical System
Battery Disconnect Switch
The battery disconnect switch is
mounted in the battery compart-
ment near the voltage equalizer
Battery Disconnect Microswitch
(see Figure 9-1). The double-pole is mounted within the
switch is for 12 VDC and 24 VDC. Battery Disconnect Switch
The switch completely disconnects
the batteries from the electrical
system, however ground remains
connected. All power to the elec-
trical system is shut off except
for power to the memory circuit,
which is needed for AM/FM and
two-way radios. To disconnect the
batteries from the system, move
the battery disconnect switch lever
down to the OFF position. Always
make sure that the battery dis-
connect switch is in the “OFF”
position before disconnecting
cables from the batteries.
Figure 9-1, Battery Disconnect Switche

(Street side, front of coach)
Always turn off the battery disconnect switch before doing any work
on any part of the electrical system. Use a battery disconnect switch
lockout device so that power isn’t inadvertently turned back on while
you’re working.
Unless there is an emergency, never switch off the battery disconnect

switch when the engine is running, or SEVERE ELECTRICAL
DAMAGE CAN OCCUR! If possible, always switch the ignition switch
off first.
Wait one full minute after engine is turned off before switching off the
battery disconnect switch! The ECM can lose important information if
this practice is not followed.
333
Electrical System
If the coach is to be placed into storage, or if it is to be left standing for
extended periods of time, the electrical systems should be protected by
shutting off the battery disconnect switch and disconnecting the battery
ground cable (see “Disconnecting/Removing the Batteries”).
Battery Disconnect Microswitch

When you turn off the battery disconnect switch, you are also turning off the battery disconnect mi-
croswitch (see Figure 9-1). The battery disconnect microswitch, located within the battery disconnect
switch, disables the charging system. This microswitch prevents the alternator from keeping the engine
running after the batteries have been disconnected, making possible a complete emergency engine shut-
down via the battery disconnect switch. The electrical system is protected from spikes that might occur
if the alternator continued to generate power after the batteries were removed from the loop.
Disconnecting/Removing the Batteries

Heed all precautions given previously in this chapter. Make sure the battery disconnect switch is
turned OFF. Disconnect cables from batteries in the sequence shown below (Figure 9-2).
The electrical system on the coach is negative ground. Before removing

batteries or working on electrical components or wiring, make sure the
battery disconnect switch is in the OFF position. Always disconnect the
negative (“–”) cable from the battery first (see Figure 9-2). When the
battery cables are disconnected, wrap the terminals with electrical tape
to help prevent accidental grounding.
334
Electrical System
Replacing Batteries
Always replace batteries in matched “state of charge,” age, and manufacturer P/N pairs. See torque val-
ues for battery nuts/clamps in the “Power Cables” schematic in the Electrical Schematics manual.
Always wear a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing when servicing
batteries. Lift batteries with handles or proper lifting devices.
Top Battery
Neg.
8D 12V
1 Pos.
Neg.
ck
bla
8d 12v
Pos.
2
yellow Bottom Battery
To 12V+
To Frame Ground
red 3 To 24V Side of Battery Connect
Order of Battery Cable Removal 1 2 3

Order of Battery Cable Installation 3 2 1
Figure 9-2, Battery Cable Disconnect Sequence
335
Electrical System
Battery Inspection
Batteries should be carefully inspected on a regular basis in order to detect and correct potential prob-
lems before they can do harm. Following is a guideline of what to look for:
1. Examine the outside appearance of the battery. Replace any damaged batteries.
• Look for cracks or bulges in the container. Batteries with cracked or bulged/distorted contain-
ers must be replaced.
• Replace the battery if the posts appear to be loose or moveable.
• The top of the battery, posts, and connections should be clean and free of dirt, fluids, and
corrosion. If batteries are dirty, refer to the “Battery Cleaning” section below for the proper
cleaning procedure.
• Batteries that smell of sulfur (like a rotten egg) must be replaced.
2. Any fluids on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is spilling, leaching, or
leaking out. Leaking batteries must be replaced. Fluid on top of the battery may indicate over-
charging or overfilling of the battery—see “Filling Procedure” below.
3. Check all battery cables and their connections.
• Look closely for loose or damaged parts.
• Battery cables should be intact. Broken or frayed cables can be extremely hazardous.
• Replace any cable that looks suspicious or exhibits chaffing wear.
4. Tighten all wiring connections to the proper specification. Make certain there is good contact
with the terminals.
5. Make sure the battery is secure in the hold-down.
336
Electrical System
Battery Cleaning
Batteries must be kept free of dirt, dust, salt, and grime. Clean batteries make it easier to spot trouble
signs. This avoids associated problems such as power draining due to conductive grime on top of the
batteries.
1. Check that all vent caps are tightly in place.
2. Clean the battery top with a cloth or brush and a solution of baking soda and water (approximate-
ly 1 lb. baking soda in one gallon of warm water). When cleaning, do not allow any cleaning
solution or other foreign matter to get inside the battery.
3. Rinse with water and dry with a clean cloth.
4. Clean battery terminals and cable terminals using a stiff wire brush to remove oxidation and con-
tamination. Clean terminals will have a bright metallic shine.
5. Reconnect the clamps to the terminals and thinly coat them with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to
prevent corrosion, or use special battery protective products.
6. Keep the area around batteries clean and dry.
337
Electrical System
Electrolyte Maintenance
Low electrolyte levels in batteries result in accelerated battery-grid

growth, which increases the potential for inter-cell rupture and sparking,
battery explosion, and fire.
battery electrolyte. The electrolyte is a solution of acid and water. Skin
contact should be avoided!
Add ONLY distilled water, NEVER sulfuric acid!
Plates in an 8D battery absorb electrolyte when the battery is less than

fully charged. Adding water to a dead or partially charged battery
can result in boiling or overflow of the electrolyte when the battery is
charged. Water should be added to a battery when it is fully charged. If
it becomes necessary to add water to a dead battery, add only enough
water to cover the tops of the plates, then add water to the fill line once
a full charge is reached. Avoid overfilling, especially in hot climates,
because heat causes the electrolyte to expand and overflow.
Filling Instructions
Do not overfill. Follow the battery manufacturer’s suggested filling procedure. If none is shown, then fill
to 1/8" to 1/4" below the bottom of the filler tube. See Figure 9-3 below. The plates need to be covered
at all times.
Check fluid periodically, more frequently in warm
environments and in busses with high duty cycles.
Electrolyte in “maintenance-free” batteries is
boiled off at a lower rate during charging
than electrolyte in conventional batteries,
but must still be checked periodically.
Fill no higher
than bottom of
filler tube.
Figure 9-3, Battery Filler Tube
338
Electrical System
Battery Testing
Be sure all cables are disconnected from batteries before conducting

tests. See cable disconnect information in the “Disconnecting/Removing
the Batteries” section of this chapter.
Visual inspection alone is not adequate to determine if a battery is serviceable. Following are three ways
to test the batteries in your bus.
Carbon-Pile Load Test

This test may be performed with the battery in or out of the vehicle. This information is provided as a
guideline only. You should follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the carbon-pile load tester.
1. Make sure the battery disconnect switch is in the OFF position. Disconnect battery cables start-
ing with the ground cable.
2. Connect a carbon-pile load tester across the battery.
3. Connect a voltmeter across the battery.
4. If the carbon-pile load tester does not have an accurate built-in ammeter, connect an ammeter in
the carbon-pile load tester circuit.
5. Using the carbon-pile load tester, place a 100 amp load on the battery for 10 seconds to remove
the surface charge.
6. Turn off the carbon-pile load tester and read the open circuit voltage on the voltmeter. It must be
12.4 volts or above. If the voltage reading is below 12.4 volts, charge the battery and start again
at step 1.
7. Using the carbon-pile load tester, place a load equal to one half the battery’s rated Cranking Per-
formance (specified on the battery) or three times the battery’s 20-ampere-hour capacity, for 15
seconds.
8. The voltage reading must be at least 9.6 volts at the end of the 15 seconds under load.
9. Ensure that both of the batteries have an equal charge before placing the bus in service.
If the battery does not pass the above test, it is not serviceable and should be replaced.
339
Electrical System
Conductance Test
This type of testing is replacing the carbon pile testing method. It is reliable and can be performed
without charging (as in step 6 above). Since no high-current loads are applied to the battery with a
conductance tester, this test is safer to perform. Use a conductance tester such as the Micro 700 made by
Midtronics, and follow the instructions included with the tester.
Specific Gravity Readings
When using a hydrometer, always wear a face shield, gloves, and

protective clothing.
A hydrometer can be used to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell. The hydrometer
measures the percentage of sulfuric acid in the battery electrolyte in terms of specific gravity. As a bat-
tery drops from a charged state to one of discharge, the acid leaves the electrolyte and enters the plates,
causing a decrease in the specific gravity of the electrolyte. An indication of the concentration of the
electrolyte is obtained with a hydrometer.
When performing the hydrometer test procedures given on the next page, observe the following guide-
lines:
1. The hydrometer must be clean, inside and out, to obtain accurate readings.
2. Hydrometer readings must never be taken immediately after water has been added. The water
must be thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte by charging for at least 15 minutes at a rate high
enough to cause vigorous gassing.
3. If the hydrometer has a built-in thermometer, draw liquid into it several times to ensure correct
temperature before taking readings.
4. Avoid dropping battery fluid on the vehicle or clothing. It is extremely corrosive. Any fluid that
drops should be washed off immediately with a baking soda solution.
The specific gravity of the electrolyte varies with temperature as well as with the percentage of acid in
the liquid. As the temperature increases, the electrolyte expands so that the specific gravity is reduced.
As the temperature drops, the electrolyte contracts so that the specific gravity increases. Unless these
variations in specific gravity obtained by the hydrometer are corrected for temperature, the hydrometer
will not give a true indication of the concentration of acid in the electrolyte.
340
Electrical System
Hydrometer Test—State of Charge
The hydrometer test is merely a means of determining the state of charge of a battery. This test will not
necessarily indicate whether the battery is able to do its job. The following procedures should be fol-
lowed when performing the hydrometer test:
1. See WARNING and hydrometer guidelines on the previous page.
2. Measure the specific gravity of electrolyte in each battery cell. Hold the hydrometer at eye level
so that the float is vertical and free of the outer tube. Draw in just enough liquid from the battery
cell so that the float is freely suspended in the electrolyte. If water has been recently added to the
cells, or if the battery has been fast charged (see “Charging the Battery”), the hydrometer reading
will be inaccurate.
3. Adjust the hydrometer reading according to the temperature of the electrolyte. When the electro-
lyte temperature is above 80° F (27° C), add 4 points (0.004) to the reading for each 10° above
80° F. If electrolyte temperature is below 80° F, subtract four points for each 10° below 80° F.
4. If the specific gravity readings are 1.225–1.270 at 80° F, and variations between cells are less
than 25 gravity points (0.025), the battery presumably is at least 3/4 charged and in good condi-
tion for further use.
5. When charging a sulfated battery, charge at a very low rate—not more than one half the normal
charging rate. Badly sulfated batteries may require up to 100 hours of charging time before they
become fully charged. A continuous slow charge of 48 hours or more may be required before a
rise in specific gravity readings occurs. If the specific gravity reading on any cell fails to reach
1.250 (corrected to 80° F), or if there is a variation of more than 25 gravity points between cells
after a thorough slow charge, replace the battery.
341
Electrical System
Charging the Battery
Charging lead-acid batteries generates hydrogen gas, which is highly

explosive. If ignited by a spark or flame, the gas may explode violently,
causing spraying of acid, fragmentation of the battery, and severe
personal injury. Wear a face shield when working near batteries. In
case of contact with acid, immediately flush the affected area with large
quantities of water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention.
Care must be taken to ensure that the batteries are not overcharged.
Voltage at the alternator output posts should not exceed 28 +/– 0.2 volts.
If the voltage is too high, the voltage regulator may need adjustment or
the alternator or voltage regulator is operating improperly and must be
repaired or replaced.
The battery may be charged by the Slow Charge, Fast Charge, or Emergency Boost Charge methods.
The methods differ only in the length of time the battery is charged and the rate at which the charging
current is applied. Before charging the battery, carefully read and follow all the instructions pro-
vided with the battery charger being used and the specifications of the battery manufacturer.
Slow Charge: This method supplies the battery with a relatively low current flow for a relatively long
time. This is the only method that will bring the battery to a full state of charge. The slow charge method
consists of charging at about a 9 amp rate for 24 hours or more, if necessary, to bring the battery to full
charge. A fully charged condition is reached when the cells are gassing freely and three corrected spe-
cific gravity readings, taken at hourly intervals, show no increase. Note: you can determine how long it
will take to slow charge a fully discharged battery by dividing its ampere/hour rating by the charge rate.
For example, a battery with a 215 ampere/hour rating would take 24 hours to charge: 215 9
= 24
Fast Charging: The fast charge method supplies current to the battery at a 40 to 50 amp rate for about
an hour and a half. If the electrolyte temperature reaches 125° F (52° C) before the one-and-one-half-
hour period is completed, the battery must be taken off charge temporarily, or the charging rate reduced,
to avoid damage to the battery. Although a battery cannot be brought to a full charge with the fast charge
method, it can be substantially recharged or “boosted.” In order to bring the battery to a fully charged
condition, the charging cycle must be finished with the slow charge system.
Emergency Boost Charging: In cases where the battery is not sufficiently charged to crank the engine,
an emergency boost charge may be applied as a temporary expedient in order to crank the engine. The
emergency boost charge method consists of charging at the maximum amperage rate available from
the battery charger for a period of one half hour. This method will not necessarily restore the battery
to a useful state of charge for continued service. Although an emergency boost charge may put enough
energy into the battery to crank the engine once, further slow charging is usually necessary in order to
create a sufficient reserve for normal service.
342
Electrical System
The following rules apply to charging batteries:
1. Make sure the charger is OFF before connecting it to the battery. Turn the charger OFF before
disconnecting if from the battery after charging is complete.
2. Always connect the positive charger cable to the positive battery terminal first and then the nega-
tive charger to the negative battery terminal.
3. The charger must be as far away from the battery being charged as possible. Do not place
the charger directly above the battery nor place the battery next to the vents in the charger.
4. Any battery may be charged at any rate (amperes) as long as spewing of electrolyte due to vio-
lent gassing does not occur and the electrolyte temperature does not exceed 125° F
(52° C). If either of these conditions occurs, the charging rate (amperes) must be reduced
or temporarily halted to avoid damage to the battery.
5. The battery is fully charged when, over a two hour period at a low charging rate in amperes, all
cells are gassing freely and no change in specific gravity occurs.
6. The full charge specific gravity is 1.260–1.280, corrected for electrolyte temperature with the
electrolyte at the fill line (see Figure 9-3). If electrolyte loss has occurred as a result of age or
overfilling, the specific gravity will be lower. For the most satisfactory charging, lower charging
rates are recommended.
7. Never attempt to charge a frozen battery. A dead battery will freeze at approximately
10° F. If a battery has been frozen, it should be replaced, as internal damage may have occurred.
8. A cold or sulfated battery will not accept a high rate of charge. Hence, a slow charge must be
conducted.
9. Clean battery posts before connecting charger.
10. Water should be added to a battery when fully charged. If the electrolyte in a dead battery does
not cover the tops of the plates, add just enough distilled water to cover the plates before charg-
ing. Once the battery has been fully charged, add water to the electrolyte fill line.
11. Any battery that shows case damage or swelling should be taken out of service and sent to
the recycler.
343
Electrical System
Battery Capacity Ratings
The reserve capacity rating at 80° F (27° C) is the number of minutes a new, fully charged battery can
be discharged at 25 amperes and maintain a minimum of 1.75 volts per cell (10.5 volts for one 12 volt
battery). This rating is used to determine how long a vehicle might run after an alternator or charging
system failure.
The cold cranking rating is the minimum discharge current a battery will deliver in amperes for 30
seconds at 0° F (–18° C) while maintaining a minimum of 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for one 12 volt
battery). This rating can be used as a basis for determining starting performance.
Common Causes of Battery Failure

With proper care, the battery will provide many years of satisfactory service. If a battery tests “OK” but
proves defective in service, the following are likely causes of the malfunction:
1. Vehicle accessories inadvertently left on.
2. Defects in the charging system, such as high wiring resistance, a faulty alternator, slipping drive
belts, faulty regulator, or a defective battery equalizer.
3. Overloads caused by a defective starter or shorted circuits.
4. Shorted or pinched wires, loose or poor battery cable-to-post connections, previous improper
charging of a run-down battery, or loose hold-downs.
5. Hardened “sulfated” battery plates due to a low state of battery charge over a long period of time.
6. Dirt and electrolyte on top of the battery causing a constant drain.
7. Vehicle electrical load greater than alternator output. A possible cause is the addition of after-
market equipment, such as extra radio equipment or lighting systems.
8. Dirty or loose cable connections at battery terminals or ground.
RE
Recycle Used Batteries
D
TU
LEA
RN
Always dispose of batteries in a responsible manner. Follow your local
authorized standards for disposal. Call your local recycling center to find out
more about recycling batteries.
RECYCLE
For More Information
For more extensive information about batteries, see the very useful Battery Service Manual, available
from Battery Council International (BCI) at www.batterycouncil.org.
344
Electrical System
Jump Starting with a Booster Battery
Both the booster battery and the discharged battery should be treated carefully when using jumper
cables. Before jump starting with a dead battery, adhere to and comply with the precautions
prescribed at the beginning of the “Battery” section of this chapter. Also be aware of the following
precautions before jump starting:
1. When batteries are being charged, an explosive gas mixture forms in each cell. Part of this gas
escapes through the vent holes and may form an explosive atmosphere around the battery if ven-
tilation is not adequate. This explosive gas may remain around the battery for several hours after
the battery has been charged. Sparks or flames can ignite the gas, causing an internal explosion
which may shatter the battery and cause personal injury.
2. Do not jump start a damaged battery. Inspect both the booster battery and the discharged
battery before jump starting.
3. Do not smoke near a battery which is being charged or one which has been recently charged.
4. Do not break live circuits at battery terminals, because a spark usually occurs at the point where
a live circuit is broken. Care must always be taken when connecting or disconnecting booster
leads or cable clamps on chargers. Poor connections are a common cause of electrical arcs,
which cause explosions.
5. The electrical system on the vehicle is a NEGATIVE GROUND. Installing batteries with the
positive terminals grounded, or incorrect use of the booster battery and jumper cables can result
in serious damage to electrical system components.
6. Do not attempt to push or tow the vehicle to start the engine. There are no provisions in the auto-
matic transmission for engagement of the transmission to turn over the engine, and such efforts
can cause damage to the transmission.
To jump start the coach from a booster battery, follow the conditions and procedures outlined below,
being careful not to cause sparks. Departure from these conditions and procedures could result in seri-
ous personal injury (particularly to the eyes) from such causes as battery explosion and battery acid or
electrical burns, and could damage electronic components of the vehicle.
This vehicle may be equipped with jump start connectors (Figure 9-4).
Jumper cables are available with jump start connectors at both ends,
or with clamps at the booster battery end.
345
Electrical System
If the bus is equipped with a rear jump start connector, it is located inside the right side engine access
door on the outrigger or behind the utility door above the right tail light. The front jump start connector
may be located behind the battery box door at the front of the vehicle or behind an access door above the
front bumper.
Cap
Figure 9-4, Typical Jump Start connectors
Jump Start Procedure

1. Be sure the jumper cables and connector do not have loose or missing insulation.
2. Check the battery fluid level. If low, fill to the proper level with distilled water.
(See “Electrolyte Maintenance.”) Replace all caps before jump starting.
3. The booster battery must be of the same voltage as the discharged battery and must have a nega-
tive ground.
4. Do not route the cable on or near pulleys, fans, or other parts which will move when the engine
starts.
5. Set the parking brake and place the transmission in neutral. Turn off all lights, accessories, and
other electrical loads in the vehicle to be started.
6. Do not permit the vehicles to touch each other as this could cause a ground connection which
could cause sparks.
7. If the assisting vehicle is so equipped, plug the jumper cable into its jump start connector. If the
assisting vehicle has no jump start connector, clamp one end of the red (+) jumper cable to the
positive (+) terminal of the booster battery and clamp the black (–) cable to the negative (–) ter-
minal of the booster battery.
346
Electrical System
8. Connect the other end of the booster cable to the jump start connector (if so equipped) on your
bus. If your bus does not have a jump start connector, clamp the remaining end of the positive (+)
booster cable to the positive terminal of the discharged battery.
Do not attach the negative (black, –) cable from the booster battery
directly to the negative terminal of the discharged battery. If a spark
occurs and battery gas is present, an explosion could result. Clamp the
negative cable from the booster battery to ground (an unpainted section)
of the vehicle with the discharged battery .
9. Finally, clamp the remaining end of the negative booster cable to ground (an unpainted section of
your bus). If a large arc occurs when attempting to make the connection, do not connect. Check
that jumper cables are not reversed.
9. Be sure that cables are clear of fan blades, belts, and other moving parts. Start the engine of the
vehicle which is providing the jump start. Turn off all electrical accessories in this vehicle.
10. Start the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery.
11. Remove the jumper cables in the reverse order in which they were attached. First disconnect
the cable from the jump start connector of your bus (if so equipped). If your bus does not have
a jump start connector, disconnect first from the ground connection on your bus, then from the
negative terminal of the booster battery. Next disconnect from the positive terminal of the dis-
charged battery and the positive terminal of the booster battery.
347
Electrical System
Battery Equalizer LED illuminates when
load is applied.
The Battery Equalizer (Figure 9-5), located in the
battery box access area on the street side of the coach,
obtains a 12 volt DC power source from the 24 volt
DC electrical system. In addition to providing regulated
12 volt power at up to 100 Amps (or 80 Amps, de-
pending upon model of equalizer installed), the equal-
izer ensures that battery voltages remain equal, which
significantly extends battery life. The battery equalizer
connects to the 24 volt, 12 volt, and ground terminals
of the battery system. When the 12 volt loads require
power, the equalizer ensures that the current is taken 4
+2
equally from both batteries, and that the voltages of the ND
two batteries are kept equal. 2
G
+1 Red
When tapping into the battery system to obtain power
24 V
for 12 volt loads, a charge imbalance can result, caus-
Black
ing Battery B (see Figure 9-6 below) to be overcharged, GROUND
and possibly to boil, while Battery A discharges. The
equalizer solves this problem by holding Battery A and Yellow
B voltages to within 0.05 volts under light loads and 12 V
to within 0.1 volts at full rated load. If the 12 volt load
Figure 9-5, Battery Equalizer
60A
+24v
vanner +
24v
equalizer bAtt battery loAd
b
disconnect
—
switches
+24v
+12v 125A
24v Alt
+
gNd bAtt bAlANce —

+12v bAtt high
bAtt low
+
bAtt
A em-70d 12v
— gNd loAd
+12v igN
+ voltage
for lamps 1 Amp fuse
Figure 9-6, Battery Equalizer and EM70D System Monitor

348
Electrical System
requires a momentary surge current which exceeds the rated capacity of the equalizer, Battery A will
supply the extra current to the load. The equalizer will then replenish the energy to Battery A after the
surge has passed.
There are relay contactors internal to the equalizer to prevent damage to the equalizer if the cables are
connected to the wrong terminals. If the cables are connected to the wrong terminals, the relay contac-
tors will open and the equalizer will not turn on. No damage to the unit will occur.
Proper Operation
If the battery equalizer indicator light is ON the equalizer is working.
The equalizer is working properly if:
1. The indicator light is ON and;
2. The 12 volt DC loads are being operated continuously and are within the rated capacity of the
equalizer and;
3. Battery A voltage is lower than Battery B voltage by no more than 0.05 to 0.10 volts (measured
at the equalizer +24, +12, and GND terminals).
The battery equalizer is electronically protected against reverse polarity damage, and therefore the DC
connection sequence is not an issue.
The equalizer will not function properly unless all three battery connections are made. Battery A and
Battery B voltages both must be above 8 volts for the unit to turn ON.
Testing the Battery Equalizer

Equipment Needed:
• DC voltmeter
• DC clamp-on ammeter
Perform the following steps to test the battery equalizer:
1. Field test the equalizer while fully connected to the vehicle batteries. For bench testing, two 12
volt batteries, two 12 volt power supplies are required. The equalizer must be connected to the
batteries at GND, 12V and 24V to function properly.
2. If battery voltage is below 24 volts, start the vehicle or apply a 24 volt battery charger to the bat-
teries.
3. Turn ON 12 volt DC loads up to the equalizer rated capacity. Measure DC amps on the equalizer
+12 cable to verify load amperages.
4. At the equalizer measure and record:
a. Battery A voltage (voltage between the equalizer +12 and GND terminals)
b. Battery B voltage (voltage between the equalizer +24 and +12 terminals)
c. Equalizer Indicator Light status (ON or OFF)
5. Subtract Battery A voltage from Battery B voltage and compare readings. See table below.
349
Electrical System
Indicator
Voltage Comparison Equalizer Status
Light
stand-by mode
battery A is lower than battery b
off off the equalizer will not turn oN until battery A
but within 0.05 volt. is lower than battery b by more than 0.05 volts.

oN oN Normal operating mode
by 0.05 volt to 0.10 volts.
battery A is lower than battery b self-protection mode due to overload

by more than 0.10 volts. oN oN condition. see below.

by more than 0.10 volts. off off the equalizer is not functioning properly.
Abnormal condition. suspect battery b is defective

battery A is higher than battery b.
or a 12 volt load is connected to battery b.
Equalizer Troubleshooting
Equalizer Overload Condition
An overload condition exists when the 12 volt loads exceed the equalizer’s rated capacity. The overload
condition will not damage the equalizer but may cause damage to the batteries.
During the overload, the equalizer output is limited by internal protection circuits to its Rated Output
Amps. The 12 volt amps exceeding the equalizer output are drawn from Battery A, which will begin to
draw the batteries out of balance. The equalizer full Rated Output Amps are maintained as long as Bat-
tery A and Battery B remain balanced within 0.10 volt. The internal protection circuits will reduce equal-
izer output as the batteries become further out-of-balance. If Battery A voltage falls below approximately
8 volts the equalizer will shut itself OFF.
To correct the overload condition the 12 volt load must be reduced or the equalizer capacity must be
increased.
Engine No-Start Situation

Situation: The coach has dead batteries and won’t start while jump starting. The coach has a moderate
12 volt load which cannot be turned OFF. The coach sits for several days and the batteries run com-
pletely dead. During jump starting the engine cranks but does not start due to low voltage on the 12 volt
supply. Electrical testing reveals there is no 12 volt output from the equalizer while jump starting even
though the equalizer separately tests OK.
Cause: The 12 volt load which could not be turned OFF first ran both batteries down until the equalizer
shut itself OFF due to low voltage. (The equalizer will shut OFF if system voltage falls below 16 volts
or if voltage on either battery falls below 8 volts.) Then Battery A alone was drained to near zero volts.
As the bus is being jumped, 12 volt loads hold Battery A voltage too low for the equalizer to turn ON
and Battery A is too weak to support the 12 volt electronic engine control.
Solution: Turn OFF all 12 volt loads (turning the Battery Disconnect switch OFF may accomplish this).
350
Electrical System
Connect the jumper cables but do not crank the engine for two or three minutes or until the equalizer
indicator light has turned ON (which means the equalizer is ON). Both batteries must rise above 8 volts.
The Battery Disconnect switch can then be turned ON and the bus should have adequate 12 volt power
to start.
Equalizer Replacement
The equalizer is a sealed unit and is not field maintainable. Attempts by unauthorized personnel to repair
or undertake maintenance on the unit may result in voiding of the warranty, and may cause damage to
other electrical components in the coach.
If a unit fails and is within the warranty period, the Field Service Department of Gillig should be con-
tacted for further processing of the claim. If the unit is not within the warranty period, the Gillig Parts
Department should be contacted to obtain a replacement.
To replace the equalizer:
1. Turn the battery disconnect switches in the battery compartment to the OFF position.
Even with the battery disconnect switch OFF, all connections from the
battery to the equalizer remain live. To prevent personal injury, use
extreme caution when working on electrical systems.
When removing or installing equalizer cables, always use a wrench

to hold the inner nut (between the cable connector and the equalizer
body), so that it does not turn while you tighten or loosen the outer nut.
Failure to hold the inner nut in place can cause the connector stud to
turn inside the equalizer case, resulting in damage to the equalizer and
possible fire danger. Refer to Figure 9-7 for an illustration of the proper
cable installation / removal method. Never tighten the outer nut to more
than 120 in-lb.
2. Remove the cables or wires from the ground (GND), “+12, “ and “+24” terminals in that order.
Tape the ends of the cables to prevent short circuits and mark the cables so that they can be rein-
stalled on the correct terminals (12 volt lead should have a yellow band).
To avoid the risk of damage to the equalizer or another component

in the electrical system, always disconnect the “GND” cable first and
reconnect it last.
351
Electrical System
3. Remove the four screws attaching the equalizer to the floor of the compartment and remove the
equalizer from the coach.
4. Install the replacement equalizer, aligning the holes in the mounting flange with the holes in the
floor of the compartment. Attach the equalizer to the compartment floor with four screws. Tight-
en the screws firmly, but to no more than 120 in-lb.
Turn outer nut
Cable connector between nuts
Prevent inner nut from turning
Figure 9-7, Installing or Removing Equalizer Cables
352
Electrical System
EM70D Electrical System Monitor
The Vanner EM70D electrical system monitor, HIGH LOW
mounted in the rear bulkhead, monitors the alter- CHECK
VOLTAGE VOLTAGE
(12V SYSTEM)
nator output to the battery. It communicates with (24V SYSTEM) (24V SYSTEM)
the I/O system to alert the driver via the indicator
Figure 9-8, Indicator Lamps Show Blown Fuse
lamp strip if there is a problem with the 12V or
the 24V electrical system on the bus (see Figure
9-8). See Figure 9-6 for a schematic representa-
tion of the EM70D.
Quick connects
+24v igN sw +24v igN.sw.
gNd grouNd
system monitors
moNitor
output
+12v +12v dc
+24v +24v dc Model EM70D

electricAl system
batt low bAtt low moNitor
output
batt high
lAmp
bAtt high
bAtt
batt balance bAlANce
power oN
power on led
Figure 9-9, Vanner Electrical System Monitor
System Monitor Fuse

The EM70D features a fuse which helps to prevent overheating and fires in the event of major electrical
malfunctions. If the fuse blows, the equalizer will cease functioning properly, and all three of the indica-
tor lamps pictured above will come on. These are: CHECK (12V SYSTEM), HIGH VOLTAGE (24V
SYSTEM), and LOW VOLTAGE (24V SYSTEM). If all three of these lights come on (with ignition
switched on) at the same time, perform the following steps to check the EM70D:
1. Access the EM70D, located on the rear enclosure electrical panel, which mounts behind a lock-
ing access panel at the top of the rear bulkhead (refer to the “Electrical Panels” section of this
chapter for the precise location of this panel).
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “Ignition” or “Day Run” position.
3. Check the “POWER ON” LED (see Figure 9-9). The LED should be on.
4. If the LED is not on, check the fuse (follow the red “+24VDC” wire and look for a black fuse
holder) for continuity. Impedance should be about 12 ohms.
5. If fuse is blown, replace it. Use a Bussman GDA F125ma fuse only.
6. If the new fuse also blows, replace the entire EM70D unit with a new one.
353
Electrical System
Warning Lamp Definitions
See Figure 9-9 for location of warning lamps. The warning lamps will glow under the following condi-
tions:
• Battery Low
1. Battery voltage drops below 24 VDC
• Check alternator output
• Check alternator regulator
• Check battery connections
• Check battery cells
• Check battery equalizer connections
• Battery High
1. Battery voltage exceeds 30 VDC
• Check alternator output
• Check alternator regulator
• Battery Balance (“CHECK (12V SYSTEM)” lamp lights on the indicator lamp strip)
1. Batteries out of balance (greater than 1.5 volt difference between the two batteries)
• Check battery equalizer connections
2. Check 60A and 125A fuses.
3. Equalizer not functioning properly
• Perform on-vehicle tests (see previous page).
• If inoperable, replace battery equalizer and return inoperable unit to Vanner for repairs.
354
Electrical System
Charging System
The charging system is an electrical power generating system that provides electrical power to all of the
electrical systems and also charges the batteries. The charging system power output is provided by the
alternator and controlled by the voltage regulator. The batteries do not supply any power to the electrical
system when the engine is running and the alternator is operating.
Alternator
The alternator is belt driven by the engine and is rated at 270 amperes when operating at 5,000 alternator
rpm and 170 amperes when operating at 1,800 alternator rpm.
The standard alternator is a totally enclosed, brushless unit, in which all the current carrying members,
windings, built-in diodes, and field coils are stationary. The only movable part is the rotor, which is
mounted on bearings in the alternator frame. An external oil line is connected from the oil supply tee at
the diode end frame to the drive end frame to supply oil to the front bearing. A continuous supply of oil
circulates through the alternator to provide both lubrication of the bearings and cooling of the alternator.
The oil drains back into the engine crankcase through external tubing.
The alternator has four terminals: the POS output terminal, the positive and negative field terminals,
and the “RELAY” terminal. The POS output terminal is connected to the vehicle circuits through a fuse
in the engine compartment. The positive field terminal (F1) is connected to the voltage regulator. The
ground field terminal (F2) is grounded to the diode end frame on the alternator. The “RELAY” terminal
is connected to a fuse and the No-Charge Relay that operates the No-charge warning light on the indica-
tor lamp strip.
Voltage Regulator
The voltage regulator is mounted on the right side of the engine compartment on the battery fuse panel.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator output voltage to a preset value. This as-
sures the proper voltage to charge the batteries and safely operate the electrical components. The voltage
regulator model installed in the coach operates with solid state components. A potentiometer is provided
to adjust the alternator output voltage. No other adjustments or repairs are possible. Once the regulator
is properly adjusted, the alternator voltage remains constant regardless of changes in alternator speed or
output.
Operation
See Figure 9-10. The voltage regulator supplies a low current DC voltage to the alternator field termi-
nals, causing the field windings to form a magnetic field. The rotor, rotating in this field, produces a
3-phase alternating current (thus the name alternator) in the stator windings. This alternating current is
rectified into direct current by the diode configuration and outputted at the POS Terminal. The voltage
regulator maintains the alternator output voltage at approximately 28 volts by regulating the amount of
current sent to the alternator field coils.
355
Electrical System
RELAY POSITIVE
TERMINAL TERMINAL
FIELD
TERMINAL
STATOR "F1" (+)
WINDINGS
FIELD
WINDINGS
FIELD
TERMINAL
"F2" (-)
RECTIFIERS
20-800-57
Figure 9-10, Alternator Schematic
Alternator Mounting
The belt driven alternator is mounted at the rear of the engine on a mounting cradle. A polyvee belt
drives the alternator pulley from an accessory pulley on the engine. Drive belt tension is automatically
maintained by spring tension on the idler pulley. See the Engine chapter for belt changing instructions.
Alternator Precautions
To prevent damaging the electrical system, observe the following precautions when performing service
operations on the system.
1. The electrical system is NEGATIVE GROUND. Connecting the batteries or a battery charger
with the positive terminal grounded will endanger the alternator diodes and vehicle wiring. The
high current flow may result in a burned wiring harness and burned open diodes.
2. Never operate the alternator on an open circuit (field terminal connected and output terminal dis-
connected). With no battery or electrical load in the circuit (open circuit) the alternator can build
up excessively high voltage. Be sure all connections in the charging circuit are secure.
3. Current is supplied to the alternator output (positive) terminal whenever the batteries are con-
nected. If work is to be done near the alternator, turn the battery disconnect switch to the “OFF”
position to prevent accidental grounding of the alternator output terminal.
4. Do not ground the alternator field “F1” (+) terminal. Grounding this terminal will cause the 24
volt regulator circuit to shut off until the ground is removed.
5. Do not test the alternator using the “full fielding” method. Doing so can cause severe electri-
cal damage to electrical equipment in the vehicle!
356
Electrical System
Routine Maintenance
Since there are no brushes or slip rings, the alternator requires only routine, periodic maintenance.
1. Check the alternator mounting bolts and tighten as necessary.
2. Check all the electrical connections for tightness and corrosion. Clean off the corrosion and
tighten connections to torques specified in the Electrical Schematics Manual. Be sure the wiring
insulation is in good condition and that all wiring is securely clipped to prevent chafing of the
insulation.
3. With the engine running, listen for noise and check the alternator for vibration. If it is noisy or
vibrating excessively, it should be removed for further inspection or repair.
4. Check the batteries to be sure the terminals are clean and the clamps are tight. Check to ensure
the batteries are not bulging.
On-Vehicle Voltage Adjustment

Check or adjust the voltage regulator setting as follows:
1. Connect a voltmeter across the positive output terminal of the alternator and the regulator case
(negative).
2. Start the engine and operate it at approximately 1,000 rpm (about 2,300 alternator rpm) with
some accessories turned on to obtain a load. Note the voltage setting. A steady reading of
28 +/– 0.2 volts should appear. (This reading may vary depending upon battery type and origi-
nal customer specifications.) If this reading is not observed, remove the plug from the regulator
cover and turn the adjusting screw inside the regulator to adjust the voltage (Figure 9-11).
3. If the voltage cannot be adjusted by turning the potentiometer, check the alternator as explained
later in this section. If the alternator is found to be satisfactory, replace the regulator.
Adjust Here
Figure 9-11, Regulator Adjustment
357
Electrical System
On-Vehicle Charging System Checks
Troubleshooting No-Charge Condition:
Following is a step-by-step troubleshooting procedure. An experienced technician may use the schematic
and skip some of the procedure steps. See Figure 9-12 for charging system schematic.
1. With engine not running, connect voltmeter across battery; voltmeter should indicate approxi-
mately 24 volts.
2. Leave voltmeter connected across battery; start engine and run at fast idle.
a. If voltmeter indicates 28 volts, battery is being charged. The problem is probably in the No-
Charge indicator light circuit. Check the fuse first, then troubleshoot circuit.
b. If voltmeter remains at 24 volts, the No-Charge indicator light is correct and the battery is not
being charged. Proceed to next step.
3. Connect voltmeter to alternator POS terminal.
a. If voltmeter reads 28 volts, troubleshoot for open circuit between alternator and battery
(check 325 amp fuse first).
b. If voltmeter reads low voltage, proceed to next step.
4. With the engine running, connect voltmeter positive lead to alternator F2 (ground) terminal and
negative lead to ground.
a. Voltmeter should read 0 volts.
b. If voltmeter reads a voltage, even if very small, a poor ground connection exists and must be
corrected before the system will operate properly.
5. Connect voltmeter to alternator F1 (field) terminal.
a. If voltmeter reads 28 volts, alternator is defective.
b. If voltage is 0 or less than 28 volts, proceed to the next step.
6. Switch the battery disconnect switch to the Off position. Unplug the harness connector from
the voltage regulator. Plug a break-out tool (Gillig part number 50-57843-000) into the voltage
regulator, and plug the harness connector into the break-out tool. This will allow you to test volt-
age regulator connections while the harness is connected and with the engine running. Refer to
Figure 9-12. Connect voltmeter (+) lead to the NEG terminal of the break-out tool and voltmeter
(–) lead to ground.
a. Voltmeter should read 0 volts.
b. If voltmeter reads a voltage, even if very small, a poor ground connection exists and must be
corrected before the system will operate properly.
7. Connect voltmeter to regulator FLD terminal.
a. If voltmeter reads 28 volts and Step 5 indicates less than 28 volts, there is a wiring problem
in the field circuit between the alternator and regulator.
b. If voltmeter reads 0 or less than 28 volts, proceed to next step.
358
Electrical System
8. Connect voltmeter to regulator POS terminal. This is the input voltage to the regulator.
a. If voltmeter reads 24–28 volts and voltage in Step 7 was less than 28 volts and the ground
connection (Step 6) is good, the regulator is defective.
b. If the voltmeter reads 0 or less than 24–28 volts, proceed to the next step.
9. Move to the ignition relay and connect the voltmeter to terminal 87.
a. If voltmeter reads 24–28 volts, there is a problem in the wiring between the alternator POS
terminal and the ignition relay.
b, If voltmeter reads 0 volts, proceed to next step.
10. Connect voltmeter to ignition relay terminal 30. This is the 24 volt input.
a. If voltmeter reads 24–28 volts, ignition relay is not energized. This relay is energized by I/O
controls. Refer to ladder charts in Multiplex Schematics.
b. If voltmeter reads 0 volts, check fuse, then troubleshoot 24 volt input circuit wiring.
TO
NO-CHARGE 24V
ALTERNATOR RELAY BATTERY + REGULATOR
FUSE FUSE
9A 325A
F1 F2 POS RELAY
GND GND FLD IGN BATT SENSE

3 4 5 1 2 6 BREAK-OUT TOOL
(Do Not Pierce
Wire Insulation)
GND
GRN
RED IGNITION RELAY
87 30
FUSE
9A
FROM 24V
I/O CONTROLS BATTERY
Figure 9-12, Charging System Schematic
359
Electrical System
Testing the alternator using the “full fielding” method can cause severe
electrical damage to the electrical system of the vehicle!
Testing Alternator Output Under Load:

If the alternator is operating but indications are that it is not producing adequate current when under
heavy load, perform the following checks:
1. Check the alternator drive belt tension. If belt is loose, it may slip under heavy load.
2. Connect a carbon pile, 24 volt load tester across the batteries (Figure 9-13).
3. Connect an induction type ammeter over the positive cable at the alternator.
4. Connect a voltmeter to the alternator positive cable and ground.
5. Check the Specifications for the output ratings at specific rpms.
6. Start the engine and activate the “Fast Idle” feature.
7. Check the voltage reading; it must be 28+/–0.1 volts*. If not, adjust voltage at the regulator.
8. Increase rpm and gradually apply load on the carbon pile. Observe the voltmeter and ammeter at
the specified rpms and loads.
9. The voltage output should read 28+/–0.1 volts.*
10. The current output should be within 10% of the rated output at a specific rpm; if not, the alterna-
tor is defective and must be replaced.
* This reading may vary depending upon battery type and original customer specifications.
VOLTMETER CARBON PILE LOAD

(VARIABLE RESISTANCE)
OFF LOAD
CLIP ON D.C.
AMMETER
F1 F2
R POS
BATTERY BATTERY
ALTERNATOR 20-800-54
Figure 9-13, Testing Alternator Output Under Load
360
Electrical System
Higher Than Normal Voltage:
If the alternator voltage is higher than specification, and the voltage regulator adjustment will not correct
the problem, check that the alternator/regulator wiring is correct. If wiring is correct, replace the voltage
regulator.
Alternator Bench Test

The alternator may be removed from the engine and checked on a test bench if proper facilities and
skilled personnel are available. The alternator may be tested without circulating oil through it, provided
the output is not allowed to exceed 100 amps; or, output may exceed 100 amps so long as the time of
operation does not exceed 15 seconds.
Operating the alternator at an output in excess of 100 amps for longer

than 15 seconds without adequate oil circulation will cause the unit to
overheat, resulting in damage to the wiring and diodes.
If the alternator will require circulating oil, an SAE #30 oil must be supplied to the connection on the di-
ode end cover at a pressure of 35 PSI and at a temperature of 180–220° F (83–93° C). This will provide
an oil flow of approximately 1 gallon per minute (gpm).
Alternator Repair
If an alternator is found to be defective, it should be replaced with a new or remanufactured unit. If you
want to rebuild the defective alternator, contact the manufacturer (Delco Remy) for instructions.
Alternator Removal
1. Open the rear engine access door and place the “Ignition Select” switch in the “OFF” posi-
tion.
2. Place the 12- and 24 volt battery disconnect switch (in the battery compartment) in the “OFF”
position. Disconnect the ground (–) cable from the batteries.
3. A good practice is to take a quick digital picture of cable and hose routing so that when you
replace the alternator, you can route hoses and cables correctly and put all clamps and brackets
back the way they were. See Figure 9‑14 for an example of cable and hose routing.
4. Disconnect the wires from the alternator “RELAY” terminal, the field “F1” (+) terminal, and
the field “F2” (–) terminal. Disconnect the battery cable from the “POS” output terminal on the
diode end cover. Tape the ends of the battery cable and wires to prevent short circuiting and tag
the wires to aid in identification at time of installation.
5. Disconnect the oil supply line and plug or tape the open ends to prevent the entry of foreign mat-
ter. Remove the clip securing the flexible oil line to the bracket on the drive end frame.
6. Remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the mounting screws holding the alternator to the brackets. Carefully lift alternator from
the brackets.
361
Electrical System
Alternator Installation
1. Position alternator on mounting bracket.
2. Install washers on the mounting bolts and tighten front (drive end) to 65–75 lb-ft (88–102 N‑m)
and rear to 55–65 lb-ft (75–88 N-m) torque.
3. To prevent chaffing, heat damage, engine fire, etc., all cables and hoses should be routed
and clamped in the same way they were before the alternator was removed. If you took a
picture of cable and hose routing before removing the alternator, refer to it now. Also refer to
“Alternator Cable/Fuse Installation Procedure” on the following two pages.
4. Connect the oil supply line to the alternator. Secure the oil line in the clip attached to the alterna-
tor drive end frame. When replacing or connecting the oil line, be sure to prevent foreign matter
from entering the oil line or fittings.
5. Connect the wires to the field “F1” (+), field “F2” (–), “RELAY,” and “POS” terminals on the al-
ternator. Tighten the terminal nuts to torque specified in the Electrical Schematics Manual. Hold
bottom nuts.
6. Ensure that the diode end
cover drain plug is securely
tightened.
7. Install the drive belt. See the
engine manual for instruc-
tions.
8. Place the battery disconnect
switches to the “ON” posi-
tion and place the “Igni-
tion” and “Start Selector”
switches in the rear run box
in the “ON” and “FRONT”
positions.
9. Run the engine to fill the
diode end with oil, then
check the engine oil level
and replenish as necessary.
Figure 9-14, Example of Cable and Hose Routing
362
Electrical System
Alternator Cable/Fuse Installation Procedure
Always shut off power to the batteries whenever performing any

electrical maintenance or repairs.
Because of heat, vibration, and proximity of other maintenance procedures, you will need to establish
a PM schedule for checking all cable connections in the engine compartment. Inspect cables for dam-
aged heat-shrink tubing, cracking, chafing, or any other kind of damage. Make sure cable connections
are tight and check for broken studs. A suggested interval is given in the Preventive Maintenance chapter
of this manual. Whenever service is performed in the engine compartment, inspect the condition of all
cables and cable connections.
It is critical that correct torque be maintained on jamb nuts, cable

clamping nuts, and all other nuts on the fuse block studs.
When servicing alternator cables and fuses, keep these important tips
in mind:
• Keep cables either vertical or horizontal to prevent interference with
the fuse insulator.
• Never install small wire rings between any large cable lug and fuse.
• Use only stainless steel flat washers, and do not use “star” washers.
• Stainless steel washers should be used only to back up a connection,
and never as a current carrying component.
• Don’t use any washers between the lug and the fuse or between the lug
and the buss bar.
• Make certain that the buss bar and the lug have good contact surface,
and the lug and the fuse have good contact surface as well.
• Always hold lower nut while upper nut is torqued!
• Replace fuses only with fuses of the same amperage. Contact your
Gillig Service representative for the correct fuses.
To install cables and fuses, refer to Figure 9-15 and follow these guidelines:
1. Lightly coat cable connections with copper shield and torque to 140 in-lb.
2. Install buss bar, fuses, clamp, cables, nuts, and washers in the sequence shown. Torque to
140 in‑lb.
363
Electrical System
3. Install small cable, washer, and nut over 1/4" stud and torque to 85 in-lb.
4. During installation, double check labels on cables and make sure that all cables agree with decals
and labels on the panel.
See Detail C
See Detail B
See Detail A Starter Relay
TORQUE FUSES/CABLES
TO 140 IN/LBS
DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS
Starter (N/A W/ Air Start)
Jump Start (Opt.)

To Rear Panel
Preheat Relay
To Rear Panel
24V Battery
24V Battery
12V Battery
Alternator
Gigavac 200Amp
HVAC
CRITICAL ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

TORQUE SOLENOID NUTS TO
"Pre-Heater" Relay
90 INCH POUNDS
CLAMP ALL CABLES SECURELY (24V coil)
Voltage Regulator
Copper Buss Bar Copper Buss Bar
Buss Bar
Stud
DETAIL C
Alt/HVAC/Rear Starter/24V-Batt/Jump Start

Panel Cables 12V-Batt/Rear Panel Cables
DETAIL A DETAIL B
Figure 9-15, Rear Battery Fuse Panel
364
Electrical System
Starting System
The starting system includes the batteries, starter motor, starter solenoid, starter control relay, rotary
ignition switch, and other circuit breakers, switches, and wiring. A starting system electrical schematic is
included in the Electrical Schematics Manual.
Starting Control and Operation Safety
When performing maintenance operations in the engine compartment,

keep the Ignition Select switch in the center “OFF” position or
the “Rear” position to prevent the engine from being started from
the driver’s area. When starting the engine from the rear of the coach,
ensure the parking brake is applied and the transmission is in the
Neutral (N) position (transmission must be in neutral for the engine to
start).
The starter control system renders the starter inoperative when the Ignition Select switch, on the
rear run box, is in the “OFF” position. This switch must be in the “FRONT” position in order to start the
engine from the driver’s area.
The starter can be cranked for no more than 15 seconds at a time. This
15-second limit is programmed into the I/O system to protect the starter
from overheating. There is a programmed 3-second waiting period
between starting attempts to prevent “bumping” the engine and to allow
the pinion and ring gear to stop, thus preventing damage to the engine
or starter.
The starter must be allowed to cool after extended cranking cycles. Let
the starter cool off for at least 2 minutes after 3 starting attempts.
The transmission shifting mechanism automatically returns to the Neutral (N) position when the ignition
rotary switch is turned to the “OFF” position. If the coach will not start, turn the ignition rotary switch to
the “OFF” position and back on again to cause the transmission to select the Neutral position.
After the engine has started, the engine ECM will disable the starter circuit to prevent the starter from
being engaged again, which precludes damage to the starter from engagement with the rotating flywheel
ring gear.
365
Electrical System
Starter Motor
The electrical starter motor (Figure 9-16) is a heavy duty, solenoid operated unit.
The armature shaft is supported in sintered bronze bushings in three places: the commutator end frame,
the shift lever housing, and the nose housing.
O-ring seals are used between the commutator end frame and the field frame and between the shift lever
housing and the field frame. A spring-loaded lip-type oil seal, together with an O-ring seal in the shift
lever housing and a boot over the solenoid plunger prevent entry of oil into the armature, field coils, and
the solenoid case.
SOLENOID
O-RING WICK
BRUSH SHIFT LEVER
WICK O-RING
WICK
BEARING
PINION
BEARING SEAL BEARING
O-RING O-RING 20-800-53
Figure 9-16, Starter Motor
Starter Drive Operation

When the starter circuit is energized, the solenoid operates the shift lever to move the pinion into mesh
with the flywheel ring gear. At the end of the solenoid travel, the solenoid makes electrical contact to
complete the circuit for the starter motor. The motor then cranks the engine. The pinion remains engaged
until the starter solenoid circuit is interrupted. If the pinion fails to engage the ring gear, the motor will
not be energized, thus preventing damage to the pinion and gear teeth.
When the engine starts, the pinion overrunning clutch protects the armature from excessive speed until
the switch is opened, at which time the return spring causes the pinion to disengage.
If a tooth abutment occurs, the pinion is indexed without the motor rotating. This is accomplished by
shifting the drive down the armature straight splines until the pinion contacts the right gear. The drive
has an internal spiral spline and, as the solenoid continues to push the drive toward the ring gear, the
internal spline rotates the pinion off the tooth abutment. As the pinion is indexed, the internal drive
meshing spring is compressed, which forces the drive into the ring gear. The drive then moves forward,
permitting the solenoid contact disk to close against the terminals and allow the motor to turn.
366
Electrical System
Starter Solenoid
The solenoid has two windings: the pull-in winding and the hold-in winding. When the starter switch is
closed, both windings are energized, producing a magnetic field which pulls the plunger in. This inward
movement shifts the starter pinion into engagement with the flywheel teeth and also closes the main
contacts in the solenoid switch to complete the battery to starter circuit.
As soon as the main contacts are closed, the pull-in winding is de-energized and only the hold-in wind-
ing draws current and maintains its magnetic field for the duration of the cranking cycle.
The solenoid requires no periodic maintenance other than keeping the terminals clean and tight. Always
check the working of a solenoid which has been removed from service. If the unit fails to function, first
check the wiring. The windings can be checked for current draw, resistance, open circuits, or shorts.
Whenever the solenoid is replaced, the pinion clearance must be checked and adjusted as necessary, as
explained in the “Starter Reassembly” section to follow.
Starter Circuit Diagnosis

Before removing any unit of the starter circuit for repair, the following battery, wiring, and switch
checks, should be performed to help determine which unit is at fault.
1. Battery Check: To determine the condition of the battery, follow the test procedures described
in “Batteries” in an earlier section of this chapter. Be sure the batteries are fully charged. The
wiring, switches, and starting motor cannot be checked if the batteries are defective or dis-
charged.
2. Wiring Check: Inspect the wiring for damage. Inspect all connections to the cranking motor, so-
lenoid, starter relay, switches, and battery, including all ground connections. Clean and tighten all
connections as required. The cranking system cannot operate properly with excessive resistance
in the circuit or loose connections.
3. Switch and Solenoid Check: Inspect all switches and solenoids to determine their condition.
From the vehicle wiring diagram, determine which circuits should be energized with the starting
switches closed. Use a voltmeter to detect any open circuits. A jumper cable can be connected
around any component suspected of being defective. If the system functions properly with the
jumper cable in place, replace the defective unit.
If the batteries, wiring, and switches are in good condition and, 24 volts is present at the starter
input terminal when the starter switch is engaged, remove the starting motor and replace with a
new or Delco authorized remanufactured unit. If you prefer to rebuild the starter at your facility,
consult the manufacturer for instructions.
If the switch, relay, or solenoid shows a voltage loss, replace it. If a more detailed test is desired,
see the following paragraphs.
367
Electrical System
Diagnosis Procedures
The following diagnosis procedures will help in determining problems in specific circuits and compo-
nents related to the starter.
Solenoid Check
Perform a resistance check with an Ohmmeter.
Starter Relay Contactor Test CONTACTOR

VOLTAGE LOSS
Perform the starter relay contactor test as fol-
lows:
1. Connect the test setup shown in Figure
9-17.
2. Turn on the carbon pile. Voltmeter
should read battery voltage.
3. Push the start button and adjust the
carbon pile to 45 amps load
4. Read the starter relay contactor volt- BATTERY
age loss across the starter relay. the +
voltage loss should not exceed 0.2
volts. Release the start button and turn
STARTER RELAY
the carbon pile off.

5. If contactor loss exceeds 0.2 volts, S
replace starter relay.
6. Remove the test setup.
CARBON PILE
20-800-86
Figure 9-17, Starter Relay Contactor Test
368
Electrical System
Starter Relay Circuit Test
A starter relay that does not close or drops out too soon can be caused by high resistance or an open cir-
cuit in the control circuit. Perform the starter relay circuit test as follows (Figure 9-18):
1. Disconnect the “S” lead STARTER RELAY
from the solenoid to prevent BATTERY
the engine from cranking, +
IGNITION SWITCH
and wrap terminal with a rag START BUTTON
to keep from grounding.
2. With the ignition rotary
switch selected to IGNI- VOLTMETER
TION, push the start button.
(If working from the engine
compartment, flip the IGNI- 2
TION switch to the ON po- BATTERY

sition and push the ENGINE 1 +
BATTERY
START button on the Rear +
Run Box.) You should hear

the starter relay close. If not,
proceed to next step. S
3. Connect the voltmeter to

the battery cable ends at the
starter (voltmeter connection
1).
4. Push the start button and
measure the battery cable
voltage.
5. Connect the voltmeter to 20-800-85
the two small terminals of Figure 9-18, Starter Relay Circuit Test
the starter relay (voltmeter
connection 2). If only one
small terminal exists, use the
starter relay bracket for the
ground connection.
6. Push the start button and measure the starter relay voltage.
7. Determine control circuit loss by applying the following formula:
Battery Cable Voltage – Starter Relay Voltage = Battery positive (+) terminal to relay
to battery negative (–) termanl
369
Electrical System
The maximum control circuit loss should not exceed 1.0 volt.
• If circuit loss does not exceed the maximum voltage allowed, and the switch is closed, the mag-
netic switch circuit test is complete.
• If circuit loss does not exceed the maximum voltage allowed, but the switch does not close, replace
the starter relay and repeat the above test.
• If circuit loss does exceed the maximum voltage allowed, continue on to next section.
Starter Relay Circuit Test (Continuation)

This continuation of the starter relay circuit test requires that the starter relay is connected and that a
low scale voltmeter is used. For best results use a digital voltmeter. The “S” lead should be disconnected
from the solenoid.
1. With the ignition rotary switch selected to IGNITION and the start button depressed, measure
the voltage loss in the following circuits. (If working from the engine compartment, flip the
IGNITION switch to the ON position and push the ENGINE START button on the Rear Run
Box.)
a. Solenoid “BAT” terminal to key switch.
b. Across the key switch.
c. Key switch to start button.
d. Across the button. Press and hold the button while connecting the meter.
e. Start button to the starter relay.
f. Starter relay to the starter ground. Maximum voltage loss in each circuit should not exceed
1.0 volt.
2. If any of the above circuit checks shows full battery voltage (when the start button is pressed)
then an open circuit exists in that portion of the circuit between the voltmeter connections.
3. Repair that portion of the circuit with excessive voltage loss.
4. Reconnect the “S” lead to the starter solenoid.
370
Electrical System
Starter Overcrank Protection
To prevent overheating and
possible damage or fire, the
starter motor is equipped
with an overcrank protection
system. A thermostatically
controlled mechanical circuit
breaker is installed adjacent to
the starter brush ground lead.
The breaker connects to the
starter magnetic switch (see
Figure 9-19). When starter
temperature reaches the dan-
ger point, the circuit breaker
opens, interrupting the ground
circuit to the starter magnetic
switch and de-energizing the
Figure 9-19, Starter Overcrank Protection System
solenoid. When the motor
cools to a safe operating tem-
perature, the circuit breaker
automatically resets, allowing
the starter to operate again.
Starter Maintenance and Overhaul

Other than periodic lubrication and keeping cable connections clean and tight, the starter should require
no periodic maintenance. The starter must be removed and partially disassembled to replace the brushes.
Starter Removal
1. Place the Battery Disconnect switch in the OFF position.
2. Place the Ignition Select switch in the OFF position.
3. Remove the 24V and Ground cables from the starter.
4. Secure a suitable strap around the starter and remove the bolts from the mounting holes.
5. Pull the starter out of the engine block and carefully remove it from the engine compartment.
6. Inspect the flywheel teeth if you see pinion damage, to avoid damaging the new starter. Replace
the flywheel/ring gear if necessary.
371
Electrical System
Starter Installation
1. Use a suitable strap to raise the starter into position against the engine block.
2. Secure the starter to the engine block with three bolts (Figure 9-20). Tighten the bolts to 55 ft-lb
(75 N-m) torque.
3. Connect the 24 volt cable to the starter solenoid and connect the ground cable to the starter
grounding stud. Tighten the locknuts to 25 ft-lb (35 N-m) torque.
1/2-13 FROM BATTERY

1.3 - 2.5 ft-lb
1.8 - 3.4 Nm
TORQUE
MOTOR TERMINAL
BOLT
55 ft-lb, 75 Nm
TORQUE
FROM
STARTER
SWITCH
10-32 GROUND STUD
1.3 - 2.5 ft-lb
1.8 - 3.4 Nm GROUNDED TO FRAME
TORQUE
Figure 9-20, Starter Installation
372
Electrical System
Pinion Clearance Adjustment
This check must be made with the starter removed from the engine. It is rare that the pinion has to be
adjusted, however if the wear pattern on the pinion teeth indicates that the pinion is not engaging the
flywheel ring gear at the proper position, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect the field coil connector from the solenoid motor terminal and field frame on the
starter to prevent the starter from turning.
2. Connect a test lead from the positive (+) terminal of a 24 volt battery to the solenoid switch (“S”)
terminal. Connect another test lead from the battery negative (–) terminal to ground on the starter
or solenoid frame.
3. Momentarily flash a jumper lead from the solenoid motor terminal to the solenoid frame or
ground terminal. The drive will now shift into the cranking position and remain so until the bat-
tery is disconnected. Jumping for more than a few seconds will damage the solenoid.
4. Push the pinion back towards the commutator end to eliminate slack movement.
5. Measure the distance between the drive and the housing. The distance should be between 0.330"
and 0.390" (9.3 to 9.7 mm). See Figure 9-21.
6. To adjust the clearance to the proper amount, remove the plug and adjust the nut on the solenoid
plunger rod as necessary to obtain the proper clearance. After the correct clearance is obtained,
install the access plug and gasket in the shift lever housing. Incorrect pinion clearance adjust-
ment can cause the solenoid contacts to close with the pinion outside the ring gear and lead
to pinion and ring gear damage.
Adjustment
Plug
Pinion
0.33 to 0.39 inch Clearance
20-800-59
Figure 9-21, Pinion Clearance Adjustment
373
Electrical System
Multiplexing System
The coach uses the Dinex-MPX multiplex system made by the I/O Controls Corporation. Multiplexing
makes it possible to move large amounts of electrical sensor and switching information between remote
locations on the coach using only a small cable. This eliminates a huge wire bundle (conventional wiring
harness) still found on some buses. Multiplexing also provides better control and troubleshooting capa-
bilities for the electrical system.
A multiplexing service manual from I/O Controls, Dinex T2 Multiplex

System for Gillig Bus, is included on your Gillig documentation CD.
For the most up-to-date information, contact the I/O Controls Corporation.
I/O Controls Corporation
1359 West Foothill Blvd.
Azusa CA 91702
Phone (626) 812-5353
www.iocontrols.com
Theory of Operation
The multiplexing system consists of modules installed at
various locations on the coach (refer to Figure 9-23 for loca-
tions). “Clean” power for the system is provided by a unit
mounted in the Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel. The system
works as follows: One of the modules, the D2, is a program-
mable master module “brain” unit. The others are “slave”
units, which either inform the rest of the system of inputs
from the coach and inputs from the master module, or direct
power to outputs at the command of the master module.
An input (from a switch, sensor, etc.) is received by a mod-
ule. The module will send a signal to the D2 master module.
Each module has a screw-on “Intelligent Key” (Figure 9-22)
which uniquely identifies it on the network. Modules pro-
grammed to take action when they get a particular command
Figure 9-22, ID Key with Safety Tether
will do so. This process continues constantly; every module
is constantly in communication with the D2 master module.
374
Electrical System
Multiplex System Components
The multiplexer modules are located in four or five locations inside the bus. Refer to Figure 9-23 for a
diagram of these locations. The different types of modules are described below.
Radio
Box
Zone D
Zone
Zone C A&B
Zone A & B: Indicator Lamp Strip (light bar) and Air Tank Compartment. Located at the top
of the driver’s windshield’s area, the Indicator Lamp Strip B1 (ID’s #67 and #68) is a part of the
multiplexing network. Located on the ceiling behind the driver’s area in the Air Tank Compartment,
accessible by opening compartment door, are five multiplexer modules:
A1 (ID #64), A2 (ID’s #65 and 66), B2 (ID #69), B3 (ID #70), and B4 (ID #75).
Zone C: Exit Door. A single module (on busses with rear exits) is installed in the area above the
rear exit door: C1 (ID #71).
Zone D: Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel. This panel is located behind a locking door at the
top of the rear bulkhead. Four multiplexer modules are located here: D1 (ID #72), D2 (ID #73),
D3 (ID #74), and D4 (ID #76). The Power Management Module is also located here.
Radio Box. Located above the left front wheel well, the radio box houses optional ITS (intelligent
transportation systems–GPS and voice annunciator) components: B5 (ID #78).
Figure 9-23, Multiplexer Component Locations
T-PMS-0025* Power Management Module

This module (Figure 9-24) is a switching power supply
circuit which takes a 10–36VDC input and converts it
to “clean” 12VDC power for the multiplex system. All
of the components in the multiplex system receive their
power from this module. A circuit breaker is installed on
the left side of the module. The “Sleep Enable” switch
should always be kept in the “ON” position. The Power
Management Module is located on the Rear Enclosure
Electrical Panel (see the “Electrical Panels” Figure 9-24, Power Management Module
section of this chapter for location).
375
Electrical System
T2-HCNC-888 High Speed Controller Module
The T2-HCNC-888 “brain” module (Figure 9-25) is a
programmable network controller which can handle up to eight
inputs and eight outputs. There is one T2-HCNC-888 module
installed in the coach. This module constantly monitors the
system for signals from other modules. Each output circuit
is individually fused; inputs and outputs can be monitored
by observing the numbered LED’s on the module’s face.
Green LED’s indicate input circuit status; red or amber LED’s Figure 9-25, T2-HCNC-888
indicate output status.
T2-DIO-888 Digital Input/Output Module

The T2-DIO-888 Digital Input/Output Module (Figure
9-26) looks identical to the T2-HCNC-888 (except for the
model and part numbers on top), but is a non-programmable
“slave” unit which serves only as an on/off controller for
up to eight inputs and eight outputs. There are several of
these modules installed in the bus, the number of modules
depending upon bus design. Each output circuit is individually
Figure 9-26, T2-DIO-888
fused; inputs and outputs can be monitored by observing the
numbered LED’s on the module’s face. Green LED’s indicate
input circuit status; red or amber LED’s indicate output status.
T2-DIO-168S-K7 Ground Output Module

The T2-DIO-168S-K7 Ground Output Module (Figure 9-27) sends ground signal output to correspond-
ing devices throughout the bus, such as fast idle, engine brake signal, and throttle interlock. Each output
circuit is individually fused; inputs and outputs can be monitored by observing the numbered LED’s on
the module’s face.
Green and amber LED’s indicate input circuit status; red LED’s indicate output status. This module has a
16-ground input and an 8-ground output. LED indication is as follows:
1 - 8 OUTPUT (RED)
9 - 16 INPUT (AMBER)
17 - 24 INPUT (GREEN)
376
Electrical System
Figure 9-27, T2-DIO-168S-K7
T2-48LED-06-GL Indicator Lamp Strip Module

The Indicator Lamp Strip Module has been integrated into
the Multiplexing system, and it now receives commands
from the master module to turn appropriate indicator lights
on and off according to programming commands. (See
Figure 9-28.)
Figure 9-28, Indicator Lamp Strip Module
T2-DIO-32IN Digital Input Control Module

The T2-DIO-32IN Digital Input Control Module (see Figure 9-29)
is located inside the Driver’s Console, to the left of the driver’s seat. This
module will take 32 inputs. A green LED will light up if the module re-
ceive a input signal.
Figure 9-29, T2-DIO-32IN
377
Electrical System
T2-GW-024-MVCM Module (Optional)
The optional T2-GW-024-MVCM Module (Figure 9-30) sends discrete signals to intelligent devices
such as Siemens GPS/voice annunciation systems regarding bus status information, for example, that the
doors are open, the ramp is deployed, or that a stop has been requested.
Figure 9-30, T2-GW-024-MVCM Module
T2-DIO-4OUT-K7 Module (Optional)

The optional T2-DIO-4OUT-K7 Module (Figure 9-31) sends discrete signals to intelligent devices such
as GPS/voice annunciation systems or APC (automatic passenger counting) systems regarding door and
ramp status.
Figure 9-31, Optional T2-DIO-4OUT-K7 Module
378
Electrical System
T2-DIO-PWM-888-K7 Control Module with Pulse Width Modulation
The T2-DIO-PWM-888-K7 Control Module (Figure 9-32) provides low voltage (8V) to outputs 6 and
8 for low-beam headlighs, significantly increasing bulb life. The voltage pulse width, instead of a con-
stant 12 volts, is digitally modulated and programmable for a desired percentage of duty cycle. This
module controls high beam headlights, panel lights, stop request lights, marker lights, and front stepwell
heater(s).
Figure 9-32, T2-DIO-PWM-888-K7 Headlight Control Pulse-Width Modulation Module
L2-RF-NET-R2 Wireless Communication Module

The optional L2-RF-NET-R2 Wireless Communication
Module (Figure 9-33) allows you to communicate with
the bus via a Palm handheld. The ladder logic of the I/O
system is available on the Palm handheld in real time. Bus
functions, such as opening the door or kneeling the bus
can be controlled via the software on the Palm.
Figure 9-33, L2-RF-NET-R2
Wireless Communication Module
379
Electrical System
Multiplex System Connections
See Figure 9-34. The modules in the system are connected by small cable bundles wrapped in plastic
conduit and joined by Deutsch connectors. Do not cut or modify any of the multiplex system wiring.
Refer to the Schematics Manual for your coach to determine cable routing.
communication
d1 #72
wireless
optional
module
d3 #74
ABOVE HVAC GRILL
d2 #73
zONE D
d4 #76
pms
gNd strip
ABOVE THE DRIVER ABOVE ExIT DOOR
zONE C
c1 #71
wAKe
b1 #67/68
+
bAtt
-
to mAster diode blocK
A2 #65/66
AIR TANK COMPARTMENT
A1 #64
zONE A & B
b4 #75
IN RADIO BOx
b3 #70
(optioNAl)
to gps / voice-
ANNuNciAtioN sys.
& Apc system
b5 #78
b2 #69
Figure 9-34, Multiplex System Connections

380
Electrical System
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting a multiplexed electrical system is usually fairly easy. Most problems can be identified
by observing the LED’s on the multiplex modules. It may, on rare occasions, become necessary to reload
the software into the master module.
To properly troubleshoot the electrical system, it is necessary to understand the relationship between
various combinations of inputs and the programmed responses to those inputs. The I/O Dinex
multiplexer system can be programmed to require any number of conditions (on or off signals from
coach switches or sensors) in any combination to produce a response. The response can simply turn on
an output to a device, or it can be a series of timed events and/or multiple actions.
Ladder Charts
The best way to understand the programming of your coach’s multiplexer system is to study the diagram
of the programming, which is known as a “ladder chart.” The ladder chart can be found in the Gillig
Electrical Schematics Manual. Always make sure you are using the correct manual for your bus before
attempting any electrical troubleshooting; check the coach/chassis numbers on the manual’s front cover.
Ladder charts use logical symbols and connecting lines to show the relationships between the various
inputs and outputs in the multiplexer system. The three most commonly used symbols are:
“ON” Input Condition Required

A1-17
This symbol, which is made up of two vertical lines interrupting a horizontal line
(see Figure 9-35), indicates that the input circuit number listed above the symbol
must be ON to continue to the next step to the right of the symbol on the ladder
chart. In the example here, the IGN circuit at A1-17 must be on or active in order
for the multiplex system to move on to the next condition or action in the ladder IGN
chart. Figure 9-35, “ON”
input required
“OFF” Input Condition Required
This symbol, which looks like the “On Input Condition Required” symbol with a D3-18
diagonal slash through it (see Figure 9-36), indicates that the input circuit num-
ber listed above the symbol must be OFF to continue to the next step to the right
of the symbol on the ladder chart. In the example here, the STARTER circuit at
D3-18 must be off or inactive in order for the multiplex system to move on to the
next condition or action in the ladder chart. STARTER
Figure 9-36, “OFF”
input required
381
Electrical System
Timed Action
This symbol, which looks like a box interrupting a horizontal line (see Figure 9-37), indicates that the
timed function listed inside the box will affect whatever action is listed to the right of the box on the
ladder chart. In some cases, there may be a delay before an action is taken; in others, an action may be
taken for a specified amount of time, then stopped. In the example here, the DOOR ALARM output
B1‑22 will be activated for three seconds, then turned off.
TURN ON B1-22
3 SEC DOOR ALARM
Figure 9-37, Timed Action Taken
Reading the Ladder Charts

Refer to Figure 9-38. Each circuit shown on the ladder charts starts with a single line on the left and ends
with a single output on the right. The multiplexer system checks for the required conditions, scanning
from left to right. If a path can be completed (by meeting all the required conditions between the start
of the circuit on the left and the output on the right), power is sent to the output. In most cases, there is
more than one path that will activate the output; in these circuits, any completed path will activate the
output. For example, in Figure 9-38, there are two ways to send power to the HEAD LIGHT RELAY at
B2-8. One way is for all the conditions on the upper path to be met; for this to happen, the STARTER
MOTOR input at D3-18 must be OFF and the NIGHT RUN input at A1-18 must be ON. Both (or all,
if there are more than two conditions) of those conditions must be met before the upper path can be
completed and power sent to the headlights. Another way to send power to the HEADLIGHT RELAY
output is to complete the lower path, shown in Figure 9-38. To do this, the ALL POS. FLAG and EXT.
LIGHT TEST inputs must both be ON.
Figure 9-38, Headlight Relay Ladder Chart
382
Electrical System
Module LED’s
The multiplexing system modules have LED indicator lights to help you find problems. Observing the
LED’s on the modules while referring to the ladder chart for your bus will enable you to solve most
electrical problems on the bus.
Input Circuits
Input circuits have green LED’s. Refer to the input/output map for your coach to determine which circuit
a particular LED is monitoring. On T2-DIO-888, T2-HCNC-888, and T2-DIO-808S modules, input cir-
cuits are always numbered 17 through 24. On the T2-DIO-168S-K7 LED’s 9–24 indicate inputs.
Output Circuits
Output circuits are monitored using the red or amber LED’s. Refer to the input/output map for your
coach to determine which circuit a particular LED is monitoring. Red LED’s are assigned a circuit num-
ber. When a red LED lights up, it indicates that the output circuit is on or active. On T2-DIO-888, T2-
HCNC-888, and T2-DIO-808S modules, output circuits and their corresponding red LED’s are always
numbered 1 through 8. T2-DIO-888 and T2-HCNC-888 modules have amber output LED’s in addition
to the red LED’s; the amber LED’s indicate that a circuit is ready but not active. Each amber LED is
paired with a red LED (see Figure 9-39); the circuit number being monitored is the one by the red LED.
The number assigned to each amber LED is the circuit number plus 8.
Data Communication Status LED

On the left side of each module (except the T-PMS-0025 power supply) will be one or two unlabeled red
LED’s. See Figure 9-39 for location. The Data Communication Status LED’s indicate communication
with other modules. If there are two Data Communication LED’s on a module, they will be labeled with
ID numbers so you can tell which group of circuits each is monitoring.
Output circuit active LED (red) Output circuit ready LED (amber)
Data Communication
Status LED
(red)
Figure 9-39, Multiplex Module LED’s
383
Electrical System
Diagnosis
If an electrical component or system on the bus is having problems, first check the ladder charts and
electrical schematics to determine which multiplex modules and connections are responsible for the cir-
cuits in question. Then use the following troubleshooting list to help identify the problem:
Amber output circuit LED’s on/off.

The amber LED for an output circuit (remember, the number on the amber LED is the circuit
number plus 8) indicates that the output circuit is ready but not active. If the load circuit is open,
the amber LED will be off. Possible causes include: burned-out bulb, bad connection between
multiplex module and coach electrical device, defective solenoid, etc.
Amber and red LED’s for circuit both on.

If both the amber and red LED’s for an output circuit are on (remember, the number on the
amber LED is the circuit number plus 8), check the fuses for the corresponding circuit on the
multiplex module. (On the T2-DIO-888-PWM and the T2-DIO-168S modules, when amber and
red LED’s light simultaneously, this does not indicate a blown fuse. To check fuses on these two
modules, visual inspection is necessary.)
Red output circuit LED’s on/off.

If a red output LED is on, this indicates that the processor has triggered the corresponding func-
tion. If the red output LED is off, this indicates that that this output is not active.
Red data communication status LED not flashing.

Each module’s red data communication status LED (see Figure 9-39) should always be flashing
(except for master module D2). This indicates that the module is communicating with the rest of
the system. If a red data communication LED is not flashing, check the multiplex system cables
for loose connections or damage.
If none of these diagnostic procedures help, there may be a hardware or programming problem with the
multiplexing system itself. Contact the Gillig Field Service Department at (510) 785-1500 or
I/O Controls Corporation at (626) 812-5353 for advanced troubleshooting assistance.
DINEX Flash Codes

The COMM FAULT lamp on the dashboard Indicator Lamp Strip can display a flash code if there is any
DINEX module communication failure. The Day Run, Night Run, Park, or Rear Run switch must be on
to display these flash codes. The COMM FAULT lamp will light for a few seconds on initial power-up,
along with all of the other LED’s on the Indicator Lamp Strip. After that, if the COMM FAULT lamp
remains off, this indicates that the DINEX modules are communicating. Use the following flash codes to
determine which module is failing.
384
Electrical System
DINEX Flash Codes (Continued)
COMM FAULT
Meaning
Lamp is:
Off Dinex communication OK
1 Flash Module A1 #64 Comm Fault
2 Flashes Module A2 #65 Comm Fault
3 Flashes Module A2 #66 Comm Fault
4 Flashes Module B1 #67 Comm Fault
8 Flashes Module C1 #71 Comm Fault
9 Flashes Module D1 #72 Comm Fault
10 Flashes Incorrect DINEX program or
incorrect accessory (Palm PC)
Note: Module D2 #73 is the
master unit and does not check
itself.
14 Or More Incorrect DINEX program or
incorrect Accessory (Palm PC)
385
Electrical System
Welding Precautions
Please take the following precautions when performing welding in a bus equipped with the I/O DINEX
Multiplex system.
All of the following precautions should be taken before welding. Failure

to do so may cause damage to the I/O Multiplex system and void system
warranty. Please refer to “Welding Precautions” in Chapter 1—General
Information for more information and important precautions.
The I/O Controls DINEX T2 System modules are designed with optical isolation and may be affected by
even minor welding on the vehicle. Before welding, completely disconnect all I/O Multiplex modules by
following this procedure:
1. Turn OFF battery power.
2. Disconnect the connectors of module T-PMS-0025-GL on both sides.
3. Disconnect all modules’ power connectors in each zone area.
Zone A & B:
a) Disconnect the A1 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone A & B.
b) Disconnect the A2 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone A & B.
c) Disconnect the B1 module’s power connector (AMP 640501-2) in zone A & B.
d) Disconnect the B2 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone A & B.
e) Disconnect the B3 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone A & B.
f) Disconnect the B4 (if applicable) module’s power connector in zone A & B.
i) If B4 is a DIO module: disconnect module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1).
ii) If B4 is a DIO Gateway module (for example: T2-GW-024MCM-R7), do not take any
action.
Zone C:
Disconnect the C1 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone C.
Zone D:
a) Disconnect the D1 sink module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone D.
b) Disconnect D2 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone D.
c) Disconnect D3 module’s power connector (AMP 207121-1) in zone D.
Zone E:
Disconnect the T2-GW-024-MVCM module.
When finished welding, reconnect all components in the reverse order that they were disconnected.
386
Electrical System
Electrical Panels
Driver’s Area
The following components are located in the driver’s area. Refer to the Driver’s Handbook for a detailed
description of the driver’s area components.
Driver Console
The transmission, door controls, and PA components are located in the console, which is located along
the wall at the driver’s left.
Driver Dashboard
The gauges and most of the driver’s controls are located on the dashboard.
Indicator Light Panel

This panel is located above the driver’s windshield and contains indicator lights for most major func-
tions.
Air Tank Electrical Panel

The Air Tank Electrical Panel (Figure 9-40) is located on the ceiling above the driver’s area. It contains
the following:
• Components of the I/O Dinex Multiplexer System
• Circuit breakers
• Fuse module
• Brake interlock switch
• Beeper and warbler
• Relays for:
—Ignition
—Horns
—Headlights
—Interior lights
—Kneeling system
The circuit breakers are mounted in snap-in sockets. They are the manual reset type. The height of the
breaker button indicates whether the circuit breaker is tripped or open. When the breaker trips to the
open position, the button pops up. To reset a tripped circuit breaker, depress the black circuit breaker
button. To manually trip a breaker, press the colored button.
387
Electrical System
Do not substitute a circuit breaker with one of higher amperage rating.
An overloaded circuit can occur leading to equipment failure or fire.
Be sure the battery disconnect switches in the battery compartment are turned to the “OFF” position
before attempting service in the electrical panel. Always refer to the appropriate wiring diagram in the
Electrical Schematics Manual to ensure that the connections are properly accomplished. Turn the battery
disconnect switches to the “ON”  position and test the circuit for proper functioning.
Relays installed in the electrical panel are not interchangeable. When

replacing a relay, make certain that the correct replacement relay is
used.
Ignition Relays Circuit Breakers
I/O Dinex Multiplexer System

Gnd. Jct #1
12V 24V B2 #69 B3 #70 B4 #75 A1 #62 A2 #65/66
4 60A Fuses
Ground Stud Power Relays
Figure 9-40, Air Tank Electrical Panel
388
Electrical System
Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel
The Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel is located inside the coach interior at the top of the rear bulkhead
area (see Figure 9-41). The panel is reached by opening a locked access door. See Figure 9-42 for com-
ponent locations.
Locks
Access Door
Figure 9-41, Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel Access Door
Multiplexer
Ignition Relays Power Module
D4 #76 D2 #73 D3 #74 D1 #72
12V 24V
4 60A Fuses
I/O Dinex Multiplexer Modules
ABS
DIAGNOSTIC
Circuit Breakers Negative Jct. Power Relays EM70D Electrical Transmission ECU
System Monitor
ABS Blink
Code Switch
Figure 9-42, Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel Component Locations
Above Door Enclosure

This enclosure is located in the interior above the passenger door. It contains I/O module C1 #71 for the
multiplexer system and the door closure mechanism (on busses with rear passenger doors only).
389
Electrical System
SAE J1939 Interface
The primary communications network on your coach is a “CAN backbone”—a controller area network.
Controls such as the ECM (engine control module), ECU (transmission electronic control unit), ABS
system ECU, and other vehicle computer control systems communicate through use of this SAE J1939
standard communication link.
This link receives operational information regarding the engine and other vehicle components, which is
needed for proper bus systems control, and it transfers system operational data, to be utilized by vehicle
systems to monitor, display, or use as input to determine the operating status of various systems. This
communication link is also used as the basis for PC-based diagnostics programs. See Figure 9-43.
390
Electrical System
ALLISON TRANSMISSION
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR
xx 1939+ yEL PART OF L/H CEILING HARN (PHANTOM) PART OF L/H FRONT PANEL
xx 1939- GRN
xx 1939 SHLD
PART OF R/H CEILING HARN (LOW FLOOR)
DIAGNOSTIC
VOITH TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR INTERIOR BULKHEAD SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR
xx 1939+ yEL A BAT. NEG GRN
xx 1939- GRN B 12V POS yEL
xx 1939 SHLD C 1939+ yEL
zF TRANSMISSION D 1939- GRN
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR E 1939 SHLD
xx 1939+ yEL F 1587+ WHT BLACK ADHESIVE LINED
"T" FRONT ELECT. COMPARTMENT G 1587- BLU SHRINK TUBING
xx 1939- GRN
xx 1939 SHLD
NOTES:
1.5
1. NO SPLICES IN THE WIRE BUNDLE
2. ExTENSIONS CABLES HAVE PLUGS BOTH ENDS PART OF L/H CEILING HARN.
TRANS ECU WITH BLUE WEDGES. 3 WAy PLUG
GROUNDING
3. ALL ECU'S HAVE MAx. 1 METER PIGTAIL AND
ADAPTER HAVE PLUG P/N 51-29355-039 W/ORANGE WEDGE
4. USE CABLE 51-52838-000
GND BUSS BAR 5. USE SHIELD GROUNDING ADAPTER IN REAR PANEL
6. SPLICES ALLOWED AT THE LOCATION WHERE TERMINATION
MULTIPLE DEVICES ARE IN CLOSE PROxIMITy. RESISTOR VOLTS
DASH GAUGES AND REAR RUN BOx.
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR 7. 3 INCH MIN. CABLE BEND R.
PART OF BULKHEAD HARN 7 1939+ yEL 8. USE RESISTOR ITEM 2 AT BOTH ENDS OF THE
CONN 186
6 1939- GRN NETWORK
9. SPLICES ARE MADE WITH THE T ITEM NO. 1
8 1939 SHLD MPH
10. ENSURE THAT ALL CONNECTORS HAVE SEALS THAT
ARE ENTACT BEFORE MATING CONNECTORS.
TyPICAL GAUGE
3-WAy CONNECTOR PIN-OUT
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR
391
ABS SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR 1 12V IGN yEL
ECU A 1939+ yEL PART OF DASH PANEL HARN
2 1939 - GRN
B 1939- GRN 3 1939 + yEL SPEEDO. CON. 1 SPEEDO. CON. 2
C 1939 SHLD REAR RUN BOx 4 PNL. LTS. SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR
6 GND. GRN 1 12V IGN yEL 1 PNL. LTS. BLU
PART OF ENGINE HARN 2 1939 - GRN 2
3-WAy CONNECTOR PIN-OUT TEMP 3 1939 + yEL 3
yEL (POS) C10J-1 yEL (POS)
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR 4 1939 SHLD. 4
GRN (NEG) C10J-2 GRN (NEG)
A 1939+ yEL 5 TRIP METER GRA 5
B 1939- GRN SHLD C10J-3 SHLD 6 GND. GRN 6
C 1939 SHLD yEL (POS) C10J-8 yEL (POS)
GRN (NEG) C10J-7 GRN (NEG) PRESS
SHLD C10J-6 SHLD

SPARE C10J-4 SPARE GLUE MUST GLUE LINES SHRINK TUBING
OOzE AROUND SEE 51-22890-TAB
PART OF ENGINE HARN SPARE C10J-5 SPARE RR BOx HARN ALL WIRES
SEAL WITH
TERMINATION NEEDLE NOSE
DEUTSCH DT06-08SA-E008 PLIERS WHEN HOT
RESISTOR GOLD SOC 51-13833-034
LOCK 51-29355-030 NON INSULATED SPLICE
DEUTSCH DT04-08PA-LEO3 SEE 51-00124-TAB
CONN 1 (CUMMINS ISL/ISM) GOLD PINS 51-13833-033
SILO DESCRIPTION COLOR LOCK 51-29355-031 TyPICAL SPLICE DETAIL
ENGINE 46 1939+ yEL
ECM 47 1939- GRN
Figure 9-43, Schematic of SAE J1939 Communications Network

37 1939 SHLD
PART OF ENGINE HARN.
Electrical System
Rear Run Box
The rear run box is located in the rear of the engine compartment. It provides a means of starting the
engine from the engine compartment. It contains the basic engine controls and gauges. Also included is
the ENGINE/TRANS/ABS DIAGNOSTICS connector. Refer to “Rear Run Box” wiring diagrams in the
Electrical Schematics Manual for information on circuits and connections in the rear run box.
The center “Engine Kill/Off” position of the rear run ignition switch
should not be used to turn off the engine if the engine was started from
the front. Doing so may set system trouble codes. Turn off the engine
with the front switch if the engine was started with the front switch.
To avoid serious injury from unexpected engine starts (by an employee

inside the bus), always keep this switch in the center “Engine Kill/Off”
position when working in the engine compartment.
FRONT ON
ENGINE
KILL/OFF
IGNITION ENGINE COMPT

REAR SELECT LIGHTS OFF
START
30-300-02
Figure 9-44, Rear Run Box Switches
Component Replacement
1. Turn the battery disconnect switches located in the battery compartment to the OFF position to
avoid the possibility of causing a short circuit.
2. Open the front cover of the run box to gain access to the rear of the component.
3. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the component terminals.
4. Remove the fasteners that attach the component to the mounting bracket or panel.
5. Remove the component from the front cover.
The component is replaced by reversing the steps performed to remove it. Ensure the connectors
are attached to the correct terminals. Refer to the “Rear Run Box” wiring diagram in the Electrical
Schematics Manual for circuits and connectors as appropriate.
392
Electrical System
Electric Horns
A set of horns, operated by the button in the center of the steering wheel, are mounted in the headlight
channel in the front of the coach (Figure 9-45).
These horns are energized through the horn relay with 12 volts supplied by a circuit breaker on the 12
volt battery feed bus bar when the horn button is pressed and held. See the “Horns” wiring diagram in
the Electrical Schematics Manual for the circuit and connection affected.
If the horns do not operate, quick checks may be made as follows:
1. Connect a jumper lead from terminal 86 on the horn relay to ground. If the horn operates, the
trouble is in the horn control circuit between the horn button and the horn relay. If the horn does
not operate, proceed with the next step.
2. Momentarily connect a jumper lead between terminal 30 and terminal 87 on the horn relay. If the
horn operates, the relay is defective. If the horn does not operate, proceed to next step.
3. Apply 12 volt power to the horn to test the individual horns.
4. If all the above remedies fail, remove and replace the horn assembly.
20-800-64
Figure 9-45, Driving Horn
393
Electrical System
Wheelchair Ramp Beeper
The wheelchair ramp warning beeper is mounted in the right hand sidewall just to the rear of the en-
trance door. It is an electronic buzzer type of beeper. It is energized whenever the kneeling “UP” or
“DOWN” switch is activated or whenever the wheelchair ramp is in any phase of operation, including
“Stow.” The beeper is not maintainable. If it fails it must be removed and replaced with a like item. Be
sure that a beeper with the same tone is used as a replacement, as there are other electronic beepers with
different tones used on the coach for other warnings.
To replace the wheelchair ramp beeper, first turn the battery disconnect switches in the battery compart-
ment to the “OFF” position. Then remove the threaded bezel/mounting nut which secures the beeper to
the sidewall. Now the beeper assembly can be pulled from the rear of the sidewall to gain access to the
back of the beeper. Disconnect the wiring connectors from the terminals on the beeper assembly. Now,
remove the beeper from the coach, discard it, and install a properly specified replacement. Installation of
the beeper is accomplished by following the above steps in reverse order.
Backup Alarm Beeper

The backup alarm beeper is mounted in the
right rear corner panel between the taillights
(Figure 9-46). It is the same type of beeper as
the kneeling/wheelchair ramp beeper, but has
a different tone. Refer to the “Backup Alarm
Beeper” wiring diagram in the Electrical Sche-
matics Manual for the circuits and connections.
To replace this beeper, refer to procedures for
replacement of the “Kneeling Beeper” above.
Dash Panel Beeper

This beeper is activated by low oil pressure,
high coolant temperature, or low air pressure. 20-800-69
It is connected in several circuits. The beeper is Figure 9-46, Backup Alarm Beeper
mounted within the upper panel console as-
sembly. It is the same type of beeper as the preceding two, but with a third tone so as to allow the driver
to distinguish it from the others. Refer to the “Engine Warning Beeper” wiring diagram in the Electrical
Schematics Manual for information about the circuits involved and the correct wiring connections for
the beeper.
Exit Door Alarm Buzzer

The exit door alarm buzzer is mounted in the driver’s upper panel console. It is connected parallel to the
“Door Alarm” indicator lamp. The indicator lamp and alarm buzzer are designed to alert the driver
if the obstruction sensing devices in the exit door are activated. Refer to the applicable “Door Alarm”
wiring diagrams in the Electrical Schematics Manual for electrical circuit and connection information.
394
Electrical System
Fire Detection System
To protect passengers and the coach from fire, a fire detection system has been installed. The fire detec-
tion system consists of red linear heat detection wires, which are routed throughout the engine and air
conditioning compartments (Figure 9-47). The wires lead to the fire alarm bell and indicator light in the
driver’s area. The red linear heat detection wires have two wires within that are insulated from each oth-
er. When a fire occurs in the engine or air conditioning compartments or when the temperature exceeds
348° F, the insulation surrounding the two wires melts, causing them to contact each other. This contact
causes the wires to complete a circuit to ground, which in turn leads to the activation of the fire alarm
bell and indicator light. At this point, the engine fan and the air conditioning/heating unit automatically
shut down.
Testing Linear Heat Detector

At the Weather-Pack connector at the end of the wire loop, use a corresponding two-pin Weather-Pack
connector with a jumper lead to short out the linear heat detection wire, or carefully (so as not to damage
the terminals) short it out with a piece of wire. This will activate the warning bell in the driver’s area,
turn off the air conditioning fan, turn off the hydraulic flow to the engine fan (but the fan will still be free
wheeling), and light the “Fire” indicator on the light bar, just as if the linear heat detection wire had been
shorted out by heat in the engine and/or air conditioning compartments. Note: If your bus is equipped
with a Kidde Santa Barbara Dual Spectrum dry chemical fire suppression system, do not perform
this test. Contact your Gillig Service representative for more information.
Replacing Linear Heat Detector

When a fire or overheating condition occurs in the engine compartment and/or air conditioning compart-
ment, or when the temperature exceeds 348° F, the linear heat detection wires should be replaced. When
installing a new linear heat detection wire:
1. Install a two-way connector (such as the Weather-Pack connector that was on the original wire)
on the loose end. The connector must come with a cover to keep the connector terminals clean
and free from moisture.
2. Carefully (so as not to damage terminals in the connector) short the wire to make certain that
the fire alarm bell and indicator lamp are operative. A shorting device can be made from a corre-
sponding connector, which will enable quick and safe shorting for testing linear detection wires.
3. After testing, place the cover over the connector.
Gillig supplies complete replacement linear heat detection cables. Gillig

recommends using the Gillig replacement cables for this crucial system.
Please notify Gillig of any events involving this linear sensor.
395
Electrical System
When installing new linear wires, observe the following precautions to
insure that the fire detection system operates properly.
• Make certain that the detection wires are not installed closer than 12 inches to the engine exhaust
components.
• Do not allow the detection wires to be pinched or crimped.
• Do not kink the detection wires by bending the wires in sharp turns of 3" radius or less.
• Use enough tension to avoid excessive drooping of the detection wires, but do not stretch the wire.
Weather-Pack
Connector/Cover
Test Location
Red Heat Detector Wire
AC/Heater
Hose
Rear of Coach
(engine door open) Sleeve Loom Clamp
Weather-Pack
Connector/Cover
with Jumper Wire
for Short Test
Figure 9-47, Fire Detection Linear Detection Wires
396
Electrical System
Fire Suppression System
The bus is equipped with an Amerex dry chemical fire
suppression system. The pressurized cylinder contain-
ing the extinguishing agent is located behind the curb
side rear wheels. Refer to the Amerex manual (Figure
9-48) provided with the bus for service and operating
instructions.
Contact Amerex Corporation for more information and
up-to-date service bulletins.
Amerex Corporation
P.O. Box 81 — Gadsen Hwy
Trussville AL 35173-0081
(205) 655-3271 • Fax (205) 655-3279
Figure 9-48, Amerex Manual
The fire suppression system is reliable only if it is properly maintained

and serviced. Adhere to the maintenance schedule in the Amerex manual
supplied with the bus (Installation, Operation and Maintenance Manual
No. 13980 Rev. F—see the “Inspection” and “Maintenance” sections,
which pertain to all models). Perform daily and monthly inspections
and semiannual maintenance exactly as described therein.
It is imperative that the driver perform the daily pre-operational check
described in the Amerex manual!
To avoid false discharge, disable the fire suppression system before steam
cleaning or welding near thermostats. Cutting system wiring anywhere
along the electrical circuits will cause a false discharge. Refer to section
6.E of the Amerex manual for more information.
397
Electrical System
Interior Lighting
Circuit diagrams for the interior lights and their controlling switches, relays, and circuit breakers, are
shown on the applicable wiring diagrams in the Electrical Schematics Manual.
Fluorescent Lighting System

The interior fluorescent lights are energized when the “Interior Lights” toggle switch is flipped to the ON
position. When these switches are properly set, current flows through a Dinex I/O module to complete
the circuit and illuminate the lamp tubes. Refer to the “Interior Lighting” wiring diagram in the Electri-
cal Schematics Manual for further information on the appropriate circuits and connections.
Individual power supply units (ballasts) are mounted in the fluorescent lamp base plate assembly (Figure
9-49). The ballasts are accessible for replacement after lowering the lamp lens and removing the ballast
mounting plate.
Fluorescent Bulb Replacement
The fluorescent lights in the interior lighting system operate on high

voltage. Take care to avoid sustaining electrical shocks, which may cause
personal injury or damage to the equipment. ALWAYS TURN OFF
THE BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH before servicing fluorescent
lighting!
If the lamp is not functioning, it may be related to a bad connection and

not end-of-life failure. See Figure 9-51. The molded plastic comprising
the recessed double contact (RDC) that protects the double pins at the
ends of high output lamp tubes is very brittle. An HO lamp tube with
a cracked RDC should not be used as the lamp will easily turn in the
fixture, causing intermittent or no contact with the lamp pins and socket
receptacles. Install very carefully by following the guidelines provided
in “Extinguishable Ballast Replacement” on the following page.
1. Place the INTERIOR LIGHTS switch in the OFF position.

2. Carefully remove the lens from the panel to replace. Start by prying with the special tool provid-
ed with your coach, or you can use a screwdriver as shown in Figure 9-50, and work your way
down the lens, being careful not to scratch or crack it.
3. Remove the bulb by pushing it toward the end socket, which compresses to free the opposite end
terminals from the socket. Remove the bulb from the light fixture.
4. The bulb is replaced by reversing the above steps. To replace the lens, hold the lens in place and,
starting from one end, gently pound into place with the heel of your hand as if you were replac-
ing a hubcap.
398
Electrical System
Ballast Mounting Plate
Light Panel
Ballast
Bulb
Lens
Figure 9-49, Fluorescent Lamp
Figure 9-50, Remove Lens
Ballast Replacement
The following instructions are for replacement of standard ballast. See “Extinguishable Ballast Re-
placement” below for additional instructions for replacing extinguishable ballast and high-output
lamp tubes.
1. Remove the two screws which attach the ballast mounting plate to the ceiling panel. Pull the as-
sembly far enough out from the panel to gain access to the ballast.
2. Disconnect the electrical connectors attaching the ballast to the ceiling wiring harness.
3. Remove the two mounting screws which attach the ballast to the mounting plate. Remove the
ballast from the coach for service or replacement.
4. Replace the ballast by reversing the above steps.
399
Electrical System
Extinguishable Ballast Replacement
Extinguishing ballast is used in combination with HO (high output) lamp tubes to extend the operational
life of lamp tubes required to switch with the doors. HO lamp tubes are bi-pin rather than single pin. The
bi-pin configuration is used in order to provide a limited but constant amount of power to the lamp tube
filaments, keeping them warm and ready for full power when required.
The installation of an HO lamp tube into a HO socket must be done with care, by properly aligning the
lamp end with the socket. It is important when installing lamp tubes to inspect both the lamp ends for
damage and the lamp sockets for debris or bent contact pins before installation. Always insert the lamp
tube in the floating (push-spring) socket first and then the fixed socket. Never force or twist an HO lamp
tube into the socket, as these actions may crack the recessed double contact (RDC) bays on the ends of
the lamp tubes.
The molded plastic comprising the RDC is very brittle. The RDC not only protects the pins from dam-
age, but most importantly keeps the lamp ends seated properly in the socket. An HO lamp tube with a
cracked RDC should not be used, as the lamp will easily turn in the fixture, causing intermittent or no
contact with the lamp pins and socket receptacles.
Broken pieces of the HO lamps RDC can become lodged in the HO socket. Any pieces of broken RDC
should be completely removed from the socket before installation of a new HO lamp tube. Inserting a
new HO lamp in an HO socket with RDC debris left in the socket can damage a new lamp tube’s RDC
and HO socket receptacle pins, causing a poor or non-existent connection. Never force or twist HO
lamp tubes into their mating sockets, and always inspect the lamp ends and sockets before installa-
tion.
Damaged RDC Damaged RDC & Damaged

Socket Receptacle
High-Output Socket Receptacle Cutaway RDC Shows

in Proper Condition Proper Pin Contact
Figure 9-51, High-Output Lamp Tube and Socket Conditions
400
Electrical System
Troubleshooting Ballast and Lamp Tubes
If you suspect that extinguishing ballast is malfunctioning, shut off the power to the lights, remove the
lamp completely from the sockets, and inspect the lamp ends and socket pins for any damage. If damage
is present, replace the lamp or socket before changing the ballast. Black ends on the lamp usually indi-
cate the end of lamp life.
Ballast Specifications
Over Temperature Protection Integrated PTC* Fuse
Reverse Polarity Protection Integrated PTC* Fuse
Short Circuit Protection Non-Latching
Green LED Indicator Green LED on indicates ballast functioning properly
Red LED Indicator Red LED on indicates ballast malfunction or no
lamp tube in fixture†
*This ballast incorporates a PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient resettable fuse) which provides protection for
reverse polarity—after correcting polarity, ballast will operate. Over temperature—at 230°F—the PTC fuse will
trip. After cooling off, the input power needs to be reapplied for start.
†
Note that for extinguishable ballast, the red LED on also indicates that ballast is in extinguish mode.
For more information, call your Gillig Service representative, or contact Pretoria.
Pretoria Transit Interiors, Inc.
1975 Joe B. Jackson Pkwy
Murfreesboro TN 37127
(615) 867-8515
www.PretoriaUSA.com
Aisle Lights
The aisle lights use incandescent bulbs that are easily replaced. It is important to use the proper size bulb
(four candlepower maximum). Larger bulbs can generate enough heat to burn passengers legs.
Gauge and Panel Lamps

The instrument panel gauges and driver’s console switches are energized whenever the rotary ignition
switch is rotated to the DAY RUN position and beyond. A rheostat assembly is mounted in the gauge
panel of the dash to vary the brightness of the gauge and panel lamps. The gauge and panel lamps are
mounted in sockets in the gauges themselves or in sockets mounted in the dash panels.
Indicator Lights
The indicator lamps in the indicator light bar are LED types. The indicator light test switch may be
depressed to check the operation of all LEDs in the indicator panel.
Driver’s Lamp
The driver’s lamp is located in the bottom of the main electrical panel closeout, above and to left of the
driver. The driver’s lamp switch is located on the toggle switch panel.
401
Electrical System
Door Lamps
The door lamps are energized when the doors are opened. The bulbs are replaced by removing the lamp
lens which is attached to the lamp housing with two screws.
Engine Compartment Lights

The engine compartment lamps are controlled by a switch on the rear run box. These bulbs are readily
accessible for replacement.
402
Electrical System
Exterior Lighting Equipment
Circuit diagrams for the exterior lights and their controlling switches, relays, and circuit breakers, are
shown on the applicable wiring diagrams in the Electrical Schematics Manual.
Exterior Lamps Test Switch

Mounted on the underside of the electrical component compartment (above
E
the driver’s side window), the Exterior Lamps Test switch uses the multiplex LAMXTERI
system to activate every exterior lamp on the bus except for the backup lights. PS OR
TES
This test does not check the systems which control the lamps, only the lamps TES
T
T
themselves. For example, the turn signal lamps may flash when the Exterior
Lamps Test switch is activated even if the turn signal switches are bad.
Figure 9-52, Exterior

Lamps Test Switch
The Exterior Lamps Test Switch tests the condition of
the bulbs and wiring only. It does not take the place
of a thorough exterior lighting systems inspection,
with an observer outside the bus checking each lamp
as it is activated.
Headlights
The dual headlight assembly (Figure 9-53)
consists of two rectangular sealed beam BACKING
lamp units. The outboard lamps are MOUNT
double filament units which consist of HIGH LOW/BEAM (2A)

an upper and lower beam unit. The
inboard lamps are single filament
units which are only used when the RETAINER
outboard units are in the high beam

mode of operation. The outboard TRIM
units are identified as type 2A and
have “2A” molded into the top
of the lens. The inboard units are
identified as type 1A and have “1A”
molded into the top of the lens.
The sealed beam lens incorporates
aiming bosses into its construction,
which allows adjustment of the lamp
without having to use an aiming
screen or a large work area. Adjust-
ment can be accomplished using
20-800-74
Figure 9-53, Headlights

headlight aiming tool J-25300-A, or
403
Electrical System
any equivalent headlight aiming tool which complies with SAE standard J602 and is equipped with a
rectangular headlight adapter. Instructions for using the tool are supplied by the manufacturer of the aim-
ing equipment and should be followed precisely.
Sealed Beam Replacement

1. Remove the screws attaching the headlight bezel to the headlight panel and remove the bezel.
2. Remove the four mounting screws that attach the sealed beam unit retaining ring to the mounting
ring.
3. Remove the sealed beam unit and disengage the wiring connector from the back of the unit.
Installation
1. Push the wiring connector plug onto the terminals at the back of the sealed beam unit. Posi-
tion the unit in the mounting ring with the lugs on the back of the unit engaging the holes in the
mounting ring. The molded number in the lens must be at the top of the lens.
Sealed beam units with the number “1A” molded into the top of the
lens must be used at the inboard lamp positions, while units with “2A”
molded into the top of the lens must be used at the outboard lamp
positions.
2. Position the retaining ring over the lens and secure it to the mounting ring with four screws.
The headlight aim must be checked and adjusted even if the headlight was
properly adjusted before the sealed beam unit was replaced.
3. After installing and adjusting the head lamp assembly, install the headlight bezel and secure it
with the appropriate screws.
Headlight High/Low Beam Switch

A foot operated switch is located in an angle bracket on the floor of the driver’s area and is used to select
high or low beams. An indicator light in the indicator light panel is illuminated when the high beam is
selected.
The high/low beam switch requires no maintenance other than to keep the wiring connections clean and
tight. The switch is non-maintainable and must be replaced if found defective. The switch is replaced by
removing the screws which attach it to the floor mounting bracket and pulling the switch up and out of
the floor covering far enough to disconnect the wiring connectors at the back of the switch.
404
Electrical System
Stop, Tail, Turn, Backup, and Hazard Lights
A combination light assembly is mounted in the rear corner panels. This light assembly includes an am-
ber turn signal light, a combination stop and tail light, and a backup light. The turn signal light also acts
as a hazard warning light. In addition, stop lights, or combination stop and tail lights, are positioned on
the air conditioner compartment cover.
The remaining turn signal lights are mounted on the sidewalls and in the front headlight bezel assem-
blies so that the turn signal indicators are visible from both the front and the side of the coach.
The hazard warning system uses the front, side, and rear turn signal lamps. The system is energized
when the hazard switch in the driver console panel is moved to the ON position, at which time the desig-
nated signal lamps begin flashing.
Stop Lights
The stop light system consists of the rear corner left-hand and right-hand stop lights, high-mounted,
stop lights on the air conditioner door, and air actuated switches. When the service brakes are applied,
air pressure energizes the stop light switches, that close to energize the circuit to the stop lights and the
stop light indicator light. The rear stop light circuit is not routed through the multiplexer. This is a safety
measure in case of multiplexer failure.
Lamp Component Replacement (Disposable Type)

The stop and tail lights, turn signal lights, and backup lights use LEDs instead of conventional bulbs.
These units do not have replaceable bulbs. If the light is defective, replace the entire lamp assembly.
The flange mounted lamp assemblies are retained by screws. Replace the lamp assemblies as follows:
1. Turn the battery disconnect switches in the battery compartment to the OFF position to avoid the
possibility of an accidental short.
2. Remove the mounting screws and pull the lamp assembly away from the coach body.
3. Disconnect the lamp from the wiring by pulling the electrical connector away from the lamp.
4. Replace the lamp with a new one. The defective lamp assembly may be repairable by the manu-
facturer.
Stop Light Switches

The stop light switches (Figure 9-54) are combination
electrical/air operated switches which operate in con-
junction with the brake system valves to complete an
electrical circuit when the brakes are applied. The front
and rear brake switchs are located under the driver’s
platform.
When checking the stop light switches, perform a
leakage test. With the brakes applied, no air leakage is
permitted at the stop light switches.
Figure 9-54, Stop Light Switch
405
Electrical System
Stop Light Switch Replacement
1. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the switch terminals.
2. Exhaust air pressure from the system.
3. Disconnect the air lines from the switch and then remove the switch from its mounting plate.
Operating Test
1. Apply the brake valve and note that, with the first downward movement of the treadle, the stop
light indicator light immediately lights.
2. Release the treadle and note that the stop lamp indicator light turns off.
Directional Signal System

The directional signal system consists of two lights located in the rear corner panels, two lights in the
front headlight bezels, and six lights mounted in the sides of the coach.
The system is controlled by two foot operated, momentary type switches mounted on the floor to the
left of the steering column. The high/low beam switch is also mounted in the same place, between the
two turn signal switches. Because the switches are the momentary type, the button must be held down
to function and will return to the off position when released. There is a turn signal indicator light at each
end of the indicator light panel that flashes whenever the left or right turn signal is operating. There is no
flasher unit in the turn signal system. The flasher function is provided by the processor in the multiplexer
system. Refer to the “Turn Signal Lights” wiring diagram in the Electrical Schematics Manual for fur-
ther information on the circuits and connectors involved.
Directional Signal Switch Replacement

The only periodic maintenance required is to ensure the directional signal switch terminals are clean and
tight. The switches are non-repairable and must be replaced if found defective.
For easier installation when replacing a switch, be sure to mark each wire before disconnection. If mark-
ing is overlooked, refer to the “Stop, Tail, and Turn Signal Lights” wiring diagrams in the Electrical
Schematics Manual for further information on the circuits and connectors involved.
To replace a switch:
1. Remove the screws that attach the switch to the angle bracket and pull the switch up and out of
the floor covering far enough to disconnect the wiring connectors at the back of the switch.
2. Attach the wiring connector to the correct terminals on the new switch.
3. Attach the switch to the floor bracket with the screws.
Hazard Warning System

The hazard warning system consists of the front, side, and rear turn signal lights, the hazard switch on
the ignition panel of the driver’s console, and the processor in the multiplexer system that provides the
flashing function. Refer to the “Hazard Light” wiring diagram in the Electrical Schematics Manual.
406
Electrical System
License Plate Light
A license plate lamp is mounted above the license plate
in the license plate holder in the rear engine access
door. The lamp is energized when the ignition rotary
switch is in any position beyond the “OFF” position.
Refer to the “License Plate Lamp” wiring diagram in
the Electrical Schematics Manual for information on
the circuits and connectors used with this lamp.
To replace the lamp: Bracket
1. Wedge a screwdriver between one of the ends Lamp

of the lamp unit and the bracket that holds it
(Figure 9-55).
2. Carefully pry the lamp unit away from its
bracket. Figure 9-55, License Plate Light
3. Remove the old lamp unit and replace it with a
new one.
Marker, Clearance, and Identification Lights

Marker lights are located at different points around the bus providing demarcation for surrounding
evening traffic. The clearance and side-mounted turn signal lights serve also as marker lights. Marker,
clearance, and identification lights, turn on when the ignition rotary switch is in the or position.
Refer to the “Exterior Lighting” wiring diagram in the Electrical Schematics Manual for further infor-
mation on the circuits and connectors used with these lights.
Marker, Clearance or Identification Lamp Assembly Replacement

These lights are the LED type so there are no bulbs to replace. If a lamp assembly fails, the entire assem-
bly must be replaced.
To replace the lamp assembly:
1. Using an Allen head screwdriver, remove the two button head hex socket screws attaching the as-
sembly to the coach body surface.
2. Pull the unit out far enough to reach the rear of the lamp.
3. Mark the wiring connectors prior to removing them for purposes of reinstallation.
4. Remove the wiring connectors from the lamp terminals.
5. Install the new lamp assembly, bulb, or lens by reversing the order of component removal.
407
Electrical System
Speedometer
Your bus is equipped with a Datcon electronic
speedometer. The LCD readout serves as an odom-
eter and, optionally, on buses with a user-interface
button (remotely mounted from the speedometer),
as a trip counter. For any service information not
provided here, contact:
DATCON / Maxima Technologies LCD Display
(717) 581-1000
www.datcon.com
Figure 9-56, Datcon Speedometer
Odometer Display
The LCD display on the Datcon speedometer shows total miles. On buses with a remote user-interface
button, by pushing the button the driver can toggle between total miles and trip distance. By holding
down the button for two seconds in trip mode, the driver can reset trip distance.
Calibration
The engine in your bus is computer controlled, meaning there is a computer (ECM) that reads sensors to
determine engine and vehicle speed, coolant and oil temperatures, and error codes to determine operat-
ing conditions, then adjusts parameters, such as fuel injection, for optimum power, economy, and mini-
mal emissions. The ECM transmits this information onto a “data-bus,” an SAE J1939 cable that con-
nects to all of the controllers/computers in the vehicle.
The Datcon speedometer is designed to connect directly to the data-bus, retrieve the required informa-
tion, and indicate the vehicle speed to the operator. There is no need to calibrate the instrument, like
traditional tachometers or speedometers, as the information for each parameter is already standardized
prior to transmission on the data-bus.
Troubleshooting
The Datcon speedometer will go through a self-check procedure any time power is applied to the instru-
ment. The pointer will zero, sweep full scale, and then indicate the actual value. If the instrument does
not complete the self-check, check the following:
• Verify power and ground to the instrument.
• Verify all wiring connections.
• If no information is available to an instrument with a display, dashes across the display will appear.
Some things to check are:
• Verify that the Bus+ and Bus– signals are not reversed.
• Verify that the data-bus is properly terminated.
408
Electrical System
Figure 9-57, Datcon Speedometer Connections
Connections
Connector 1
1. Connect Pin (1) to the positive side of the battery through the ignition switch.
2. Connect Pin (2) to data-bus– (J1939 ONLY).
3. Connect Pin (3) to data-bus+ (J1939 ONLY).
4. Connect Pin (4) to the data-bus shield (J1939 ONLY).
5. Connect Pin (5) through a momentary contact switch to ground. This will be the user interface
button.
6. Connect Pin (6) to the vehicle ground.
Note: Per SAE-J1939 specification, the speedometer does not contain a bus termination resistor. Data-
bus termination is required for proper operation. Use a 120Ω resistor between Bus+ and Bus- to termi-
nate the Data-bus.
Connector 2
1. Connect Pin (1) to the instrument panel dimmer switch. For dimming, a PWM dimmer switch is
recommended.
2. Connect Pin (2) to data-bus- (J1708 ONLY).
3. Connect Pin (3) to data-bus+ (J1708 ONLY).
Connectors 4-6 are not applicable on Gillig buses.
409
Electrical System
Wheelchair Ramp
The driver controls the ramp from the Ramp Controls located at the lower part of the RH dash panel.
Refer to the Ricon Operator Manual, included with your coach, and the Gillig Driver’s Handbook for
proper operating procedures.
The wheelchair ramp uses an electrically-controlled, hydraulically-operated mechanism. Refer to the
Hydraulic System chapter in this Gillig Service Manual for issues involving the hydraulic system. To
troubleshoot the coach circuits that provide power to operate the ramp, see the Gillig Schematics Manu-
al. To perform repairs or adjustments to the ramp, refer to the Ricon Service Manual, provided with the
coach. For service questions, contact your Gillig Service representative, or contact Ricon Corporation.
Ricon Corporation
7900 Nelson Road
Panorama City CA 91402
(800) 322-2884
Incorrect operation of the passenger ramp can result in damage to the

bus or injury to passengers! Do not try to use the ramp until you have
read and understood all of the ramp instructions and safety warnings
in the Driver’s Handbook and in the Ricon Operator Manual.
Manual Deploy Procedure

If the ramp cannot be operated electrically, a manual latch release handle is provided to allow the opera-
tor to manually deploy and/or stow the ramp.
Kneel the bus first, as this engages the brake interlock. Even at a high
curb, the kneeling system must be activated!
1. At all times during the manual deploy procedure, verify that there is no person in the path of the
ramp as it is slowly extended to the fully deployed position.
2. Stop the bus in a location where the ramp will not hit any debris or obstructions, such as trees,
very high curbs, fire hydrants, etc., when it deploys. Avoid deploying the ramp to street level (if
possible) as this causes the incline of the ramp to be very steep. Line the door up with the passen-
ger loading/unloading area.
3. Shift the transmission into Neutral.
4. Apply the parking brake.
5. Use the kneeling system to fully lower the bus. See the “Driver’s Console” section of Chapter 1–
Driver’s Compartment in the the Gillig Driver’s Handbook for instructions on the Low Floor’s
kneeling system.
410
Electrical System
6. Open the door.
Do not use excessive force when lifting the ramp. Keep your back vertical
and lift the weight of the ramp using your legs.
Avoid pinching your fingers when manually lifting the ramp.

7. Locate the ramp manual deployment handle, which is located at the corner of the ramp’s floor
surface.
8. Carefully pulling up on the handle, and being careful not to pinch your fingers, lift the ramp up
enough to grasp the front edge with both hands.
9. Keeping your back straight and lifting with your legs, pull up on the ramp and bring it to a fully
vertical position.
10. Continue to unfold the ramp until it passes the vertical position and begins to angle downward.
At this point, release the ramp and allow its weight to bring it to a fully deployed position.
11. Once the ramp has been fully deployed, passengers can be loaded or unloaded using the normal
procedure.
Manual Stow Procedure
Do not forget to stow the ramp. It is crucial that the ramp be properly
stowed before closing the doors and operating the vehicle! When the
ramp is manually deployed, there is no automatic interlock to prevent
driving the bus. Driving with the ramp deployed could cause serious
injury or damage.
1. Make sure all persons are at a safe distance from the ramp area before stowing the ramp.
Avoid pinching your fingers when manually lifting the ramp.
Do not use excessive force when lifting the ramp. Keep your back vertical
and lift the weight of the ramp using your legs.
411
Electrical System
2. Lifting carefully, keeping your back vertical and lifting with your legs, lift the ramp and begin
folding it back into the bus.
3. When the ramp reaches the vertical position and begins to head downward to the stowed posi-
tion, let go and allow it to fold up under its own weight.
4. Make sure the ramp is fully stowed before attempting to move the bus.
Ramp Handle
Figure 9-58, Front Ramp Manual Deployment Handle
412
Electrical System
Electrical Connectors
The following pages contain electrical connector information from the component manufactures litera-
ture.
Packard Weather Pack Connectors

The following table shows the tools needed to remove and replace connector pins and wiring.
Tool Packard P/N
Crimping Hand Tool, 20-14 Ga. 1201 4254
Crimping Hand Tool, 12 Ga. 1208 5115
Removal Tool 1201 4012
AMP Mate-N-Lok Connectors

The following table shows the tools needed to remove and replace connector pins and wiring.
Tool Gillig P/N AMP P/N Wire Range AWG
Crimping Tool 51-13588-900 90298-2 20-18
Crimping Tool 51-13588-901 90299-2 16-14
Crimping Tool 51-13588-903 69710-1 12-10
Crimping Tool 51-13588-905 90296-2 20-14
Crimping Tool 51-13588-909 90300-2 24-18
413
Electrical System
Deutsch DT Series Connectors
414
Electrical System
415
Electrical System
Deutsch HD 10 Series Connectors
416
Electrical System
417
Electrical System
Deutsch HD 30 Series Connectors
418
Electrical System
419
Electrical System
Wiring Harnesses, Junctions, and Connectors
The wiring harnesses supply electrical current to the various systems of the coach. The weatherproof
connectors, plastic lock connectors, junction blocks, and connecting wires are shown in the applicable
wiring diagrams in the Electrical Schematics Manual. The circuit breaker electrical schematic therein
lists each circuit breaker number, its amperage rating, its current source, its function, and a wiring dia-
gram reference.
All wiring must be securely installed to prevent chafing or cutting which

could result in a short circuit or a potential fire.
Road de-icing sprays such as magnesium chloride and calcium chloride

can cause the deterioration of wiring systems. These chemicals can wick
into connection points and eat away at copper wiring. Never probe
through insulation when checking for electrical continuity. Never splice
into wiring even with shrink tubing to reseal. Always use dielectric
grease when opening and resealing plugs and junction boxes.
Wire Sizes and Colors Wire Color Abbreviations

Each wire in the electrical system is of a specific size BLK Black ORG Orange
as defined in the electrical schematics. When replacing BLU Blue PNK Pink
a wire, the correct size must be used. Never replace a
BRN Brown PPL Purple
wire with one of a smaller size. Wire color abbrevia-
tions are given in the table at right. DK Dark RED Red
The insulation on each wire is distinctly colored and GRY Gray TAN Tan
patterned to assist in tracing circuits and making con- GRN Green WHT White
nections. The wire size and color shown on the dia- LT Light YEL Yellow
grams are arranged so that the wire size is given first,
followed by the basic wire color. If the wire has a tracer
pattern, the basic wire color is followed by a slash (/)
and the tracer color. For example, 14 YEL/WHT indi-
cates a 14 gauge yellow wire with a white tracer pat-
tern.
420
Electrical System
Wiring Harnesses
The wiring in the coach is provided in modular replaceable harnesses. The harness contains several spare
wires for replacements for broken wires or for the operator to add features some time after delivery of
the coaches. If only one or two wires are broken or damaged, the spare wires can be used to replace the
damaged circuits. If the entire harness is damaged, however, it should be replaced.
The harnesses are connected by multi-pin connectors. This feature permits service or replacement with-
out the necessity of disturbing adjacent harnesses. Troubleshooting circuits within the harness is facili-
tated by the use of this type of connector. The pin numbers at each connector for the circuit are shown in
the Electrical Schematics Manual.
Wiring Harness Connectors

The following types of connectors are used in the coach:
Terminal Type Connectors
Terminal type connectors are used at the end of wires extending from harnesses to make connections to
battery and ground connections, or to post type junction blocks, and to connect individual switches, such
as those in the rear run box. Terminal type connectors are attached to the unit with a screw or nut, or the
terminal is pushed into a mating terminal on the unit being supplied with current.
Blade Type Connectors
Single and multiple blade type connectors are attached to the ends of wires extending from the harnesses
and are used for making connections to individual units such as horns, relays, and switches on the dash
panels and electrical control panels.
• To remove a wire and terminal from the connector, insert a thin blade screwdriver into the open
end of the connector and push the tang down to disengage the terminal.
• To install a new wire in the connector, align the lock tang on the terminal with the slot in the con-
nector and push the terminal into the connector until the lock engages the slot. Pull on the end of
the wire enough to be sure the terminal is locked in the connector.
Hinge Lock Type Connectors
Single and multiple contact, plastic hinge lock type connectors are used for making connections to a
mating connector. These connectors are usually located at or near the electrical unit being supplied.
The mating halves of the connector are formed so that they can mate in only one position. When the
connectors are pushed together, the lock tangs on one half engage the mating connector of the other half
to ensure a firm contact.
To separate the connector halves, insert a fine blade screwdriver under the connector locks and pry up
just far enough to disengage the lock hinges while pulling the connector halves apart. Do not pull on the
wires when separating the connector halves or terminals or the wires may be damaged.
Weatherproof, Multiple Contact Type Connectors (Weather-Pak®)
Several multiple contact type connectors are used on the coach.
Cavities within each of the multiple circuit connectors can be identified by the letter imprinted just
above the pin or cavity when the connector halves are separated. Cavities within each of the plastic mul-
tiple circuit connectors can be identified by a number which is recessed at the end of each row of cavities
421
Electrical System
or pins when the connector halves are separated. To locate a specific terminal, locate the number at the
outer end of the connector that is closest to the number desired and then count the pins or cavities across
the connector until the desired terminal or cavity is reached.
When connecting the harness connectors to the connector panel or to the mating connector, the connec-
tor keyway and key must be aligned. Check to be sure the connector terminals are properly seated in the
connector cavities. Tighten the connector nut by hand until the connector snaps into the small detent on
the mating connector.
422
Electrical System
Chapter 10– Heating / Air Conditioning
Passenger Heating and Air Conditioning
The Heating and Air Conditioning unit supplied with the coach is a Thermo-King T1. This chapter
describes the general function and operation of the system, as well as providing information on piping,
mounting and installation of the Heating and Air Conditioning unit. Refer to Thermo-King literature
for service, maintenance, and parts information on the air conditioning and heating unit.
The Driver’s Heater and Defroster system is also covered in this chapter.
General Description
The function of the air conditioning and heating system is to maintain a pleasant environment in the bus
by providing cooled and heated air, controlling humidity, and supplying an adequate amount of draft-
free fresh air.
The following are the four components critical to the operation of a mechanical refrigeration system :
Compressor: moves refrigerant.
Condenser: removes heat from refrigerant. Condenser Coil
Expansion Valve: meters amount of refrigerant to

the coil. Sight Glass
Sight Glass
Evaporator Coil: picks up heat from bus interior.
Expansion
In order for the air conditioning/heating system to Valve Dehydrator
function, all of these components must perform
properly. See Figure 10-1. Evaporator
Coil
The passenger air conditioning and heat-
ing systems used on the Gillig Bus use
Freon (dichloro-difluoro-methane) as the Suction
Service
heat carrying and cooling medium. Valve Suction Line
The principle behind all Freon refrigerant Discharge
systems is that when a liquid boils and Service
Discharge Line
becomes vapor, it absorbs a great amount Valve
of heat. When this vapor is compressed

and condensed back to a liquid state, the
absorbed heat is given up. With the proper Compressor
closed system of evaporators, condensers, Figure 10-1, Basic Air Conditioning/ Heating
compressor, expansion valve, and tem- System Components
perature controls, Freon becomes a very
effective medium for heat transfer.
An identification plate is riveted to the right of the electrical control panel in the rear of the bus interior
and is inscribed with information regarding system model, type of refrigeration used, system voltage
requirements, etc.
423
Heating & Air Conditioning
Air Circulation
Condenser
The condenser functions by drawing cool ambient air through the top screen in the grille in the rear of
the bus and circulating the air through the condenser coil where all heat is absorbed from the refrigerant.
The hot air is then exhausted out the rear of the unit through the grille at the upper rear of the bus.
Evaporator/Heater
Interior air from the bus is drawn through the return air grille in the rear bulkhead and circulated through
washable filters and the evaporator coil and heater coil, where it is dehumidified and cooled or heated
according to the selected mode of system operation. Conditioned air is then discharged out to the passen-
ger area through the air ducts on both sides of the bus interior.
Maintenance
The internal components of the refrigerant compressor will remain thoroughly lubricated by operating
the system weekly for short intervals of at least 5 to 10 minutes. This will also prevent the compressor
shaft seal from leaking and will detect any loss of refrigerant.
Before operating the compressor, especially during winter months, make sure the coach interior is
warmed up to normal comfort temperature to prevent the possibility of liquid refrigerant being forced
into the compressor and causing severe damage.
To remove the air conditioning system or compressor, ensure that the system or compressor has been
properly prepared for removal by following the necessary procedures provided in the Thermo King
service manual, then detach the hoses and electrical harnesses and unbolt the unit from the mounting
platform.
If a garden hose is used to clean the condenser coil, take care that water
doesn’t come in contact with the plywood edges of the bulkhead or
seep down to the plywood flooring. Always avoid getting water in the
passenger area. Any spilled water should be mopped up immediately.
424
Safety Precautions
1. Never close the compressor discharge valve while the system is operating.
2. Keep hands clear of the fans and belts when the system is running, especially when opening or
closing the compressor service valves.
3. When working with refrigerant, always wear eye protection; refrigerant can cause severe damage
to the eyes.
4. Never apply heat to a sealed refrigerant system or container.
5. Refrigerant produces phosgene gas when exposed to an open flame. Phosgene gas is hazardous.
It is colorless and is detectable by its unpleasant odor. Phosgene gas can cause severe respiratory
irritation and exposure can be fatal.
6. Exercise caution when working near exposed coil fins. Fins are extremely sharp and could cause
painful lacerations.
Refrigerant Precaution
Although Freon is a safe refrigerant, certain precautions must be observed when handling or servic-
ing any system which uses this cooling medium. If released into the atmosphere when in a liquid state,
refrigerant will evaporate rapidly and will freeze anything it comes in contact with. Frostbite could occur
from exposure to Freon.
Refrigerant Oil Precautions

Synthetic Type:
• In the event of eye contact, immediately flush with water for at least 15 minutes and seek medical
help immediately.
• Avoid prolonged or repeated contact with the skin.
• Wash thoroughly with soap and water after skin contact.
• Wash thoroughly after handling or before eating.
Petroleum Type:
• In the event of eye contact, immediately flush with water for at least 15 minutes and seek medical
help immediately.
• Avoid contact with eyes, skin, and clothing.
• Wash thoroughly with soap and water after skin contact.
• May irritate eyes and skin.
425
Mounting Location Condenser
The passenger air conditioning and heating Fan
system is mounted in the rear of the bus on

the engine compartment heat shield, above the
engine compartment (Figure 10-2). The inner
bulkhead is bolted to the front of the system
and serves as a noise/heat protection shield
between the passenger area and the air condi-
tioning and engine compartments.
The compressor is mounted on the right side
of the engine and is belt driven by a clutch/
pulley assembly. Evaporator/Heater
Blower
Electrical Connection
Compressor
Electrical circuitry from the bus is connected Figure 10-2, AC/Heating System and Compressor
to the system by means of a terminal strip
which is located on the side of the A.C. sys-
tem frame. Single pin or multi-pin insulated
connectors are used to connect all electrical
harnesses.
The air conditioning and heating system has an electrical harness connected to the terminal strip to fa-
cilitate connection of the system to the coach’s main electrical harness. The system harness is routed into
the engine compartment through a cutout in the rear of the heat shield. A harness is also connected to
the compressor and includes wires for the dash controls, driver’s A.C. stop light warning sensor, cutout
switches, and other components necessary to the operation of the compressor.
In the engine compartment, the coach’s main electrical harness is split into two branches. The A.C. sys-
tem harness is plugged into one part and the compressor is plugged into the other. Refer to the Electrical
Schematics Manual for additional electrical wiring information.
System Control
The air conditioning and heating unit controls are located on the driver’s console. The controls function
as follows:
A.C. Control
Use the A.C. Control knob to select a “Cool,” “Vent,” or “Heat” mode of operation.
• Moving the knob to “Cool” activates the air conditioning and heating unit cooling function.
• Moving the knob to any of the “Vent” positions provides air circulation within the coach at
ambient temperatures. None of the air conditioning and heating unit components, such as the
compressor/clutch, hot water valve, electric hot water booster pump, or condenser fan motors are
used.
• Moving the knob to any of the “Heat” positions activates the air conditioning and heating unit
heating function.
426
Driver’s Heater and Defroster System
The driver’s heater and defroster system provides heated air to the driver’s area and heated air for the de-
froster system. The heat is supplied by engine coolant that is pumped from the engine by a booster pump
and the flow is controlled by the hot water control valve. The same pump also provides heated coolant to
the passenger air conditioner/heater. The air supply is filtered by a filter located in the front panel.
Maintenance
Maintenance of the heater/defroster system includes checking the hoses for leaks, flushing the coils to
clean away accumulated debris, and occasionally purging air from the hoses. Trapped air causes dimin-
ished coolant circulation and can be purged by slipping the hose off of the connector to let air escape.
When coolant runs from the hose, the air has been purged and the hose can be reconnected to the system.
Air Filter
The air filter element should be routinely inspected and cleaned or replaced as necessary to prevent dirt
accumulation from restricting air flow into the heater/defroster. Replace the filter element as follows:
1. Remove the filter retainer from the side slides.
2. Remove and clean or replace the filter element.
3. Reinstall the retainer into the slides to secure the filter element.
Hose Service
The hoses must be regularly inspected for chafing, wear, clamp tightness, or other signs of failure or
potential failure. Damaged or worn hoses or clamps should be replaced with new components.
Booster Pump
Your coach is equipped with a booster pump, mounted on a bracket next to the transmission on the
driver’s side of the coach, which delivers heated coolant to the driver’s heater, defroster, and optional
passenger heaters. The coolant flow is regulated by the hot water control valve. The coolant is carried to
the heater and back in hoses running the length of the coach in the left side of the frame.
The booster pump also provides engine coolant to the passenger heater/AC and to the optional auxiliary
coolant heater.
The booster pump is powered by an AMETEK brushless motor. This brushless or ECDC (electroni-
cally commutated DC) motor requires less maintenance than a traditional copper commutator motor.
Power transistors replace the traditional copper commutator and carbon brushes, so there are no wearing
components except for bearings. Bearings will last longer because there is no brush dust to contaminate
them.
Basic service information is provided on the following pages. For more

in-depth information, the complete AMETEK service manual is included
on the CD containing your Gillig manuals.
427
For more information, please call your Gillig Service representative, or contact AMETEK.
AMETEK
627 Lake Street
Kent OH 44240
(330) 673-3452
www.ametektip.com
Maintenance
Seal-less Pump
There is no maintenance required for the pump. If the pump leaks or malfunctions, replace it with a new
pump, and send removed pump to Ametek for repair.
Motor
The motor bearings are designed for 60,000 hours of service. Motor bearings should be replaced every
sixth year of operation to prevent motor failure. This is an estimate of useful bearing life. The actual
bearing life may be considerably longer or shorter based on service conditions.
Pump Removal
Perform the following steps to replace a booster pump.
1. Block the coach wheels and install blocking between the frame rail and the floor to prevent the
coach from lowering unexpectedly.
2. Place the IGNITION SELECT switch on the rear run box in the OFF position.
3. Prepare a container to catch engine coolant that may be spilled when the hoses are disconnected
from the pump.
4. Tag each hose prior to removal to facilitate reassembly. Remove the bolts that attach the hoses to
the pump. Plug the openings of the hoses to prevent loss of coolant.
5. Disconnect the electrical wires from the pump, and label as necessary for easy reinstallation.
6. Remove the four locknuts and bolts securing the pump to its mounting bracket. Remove the
pump from the coach for further work as needed.
Pump Installation
1. Make sure the coach wheels are securely blocked and that the coach frame is blocked to prevent
unexpected lowering.
2. Install the pump in its mounting bracket and install the four mounting bolts and locknuts. Tighten
the nuts to 8–12 ft-lb dry torque.
3. Unplug and connect the coolant hoses to their appropriate points as indicated by the previously
placed tags. Take precautions to avoid introduction of air into the lines if possible. Make sure that
no contaminants enter the system, as this coolant will be circulated through the engine cooling
system.
4. Connect the two electrical wires with their proper mating plugs.
428
5. Bleed the system according to the instructions in the “Engine Cooling System” section.
6. Inspect the installation to ensure there are no air or fluid leaks and that hot coolant is delivered to
the heaters.
Troubleshooting
NO WATER FLOW OR NO HEAT CONDITION
If you have a “no heat” condition and believe that the pump is not operating properly, follow these steps
to determine if the pump has failed or if some other part of the system is causing the no heat condition.
1. Hook up a clamp-on style DC ammeter with a range of 500 mA to 10 amps DC.
2. Move any loom covering on the leads of the pump if so equipped so you can access the red (+)
and black (–) leads.
3. Attach the ammeter clamp over the positive (+) red lead.
4. Energize the power to the pump. Check to verify that the proper voltage is being applied to the
pump motor using a voltmeter. The proper voltage in a 24 VDC system is approximately 27.5
VDC.
5. Check the ammeter reading. The following readings indicate various conditions:
a. 2.5 amps to 5.5 amps for a 24 VDC system: This is the normal current range. The pump is
functioning properly.
b. .5 amps to 1.0 amps: Either the pump has decoupled from the motor due to an obstruction
in the pump, or the pump has locked up due to being run dry. This reading indicates that the
motor is operating properly. The pump portion will need to be repaired or replaced depending
on the extent of the damage.
c. 7.0 amps or higher for a 24 VDC system: The pump is being obstructed, but not to the point
of complete failure, or the pump has been run dry and is in the process of failing. This in-
creased current may also be the beginning of motor bearing failure. Check to verify that the
motor runs properly without the pump attached. If the motor still exhibits high current, then
the bearings should be replaced.
d. 100 mA or less: Check the supply voltage to verify that the proper voltage is being applied to
the pump motor. Also check the polarity to insure that it is correct, (+) red, (–) black (nega-
tive). If the polarity is reversed, the motor will not operate. Hook up the leads correctly and
the motor will operate properly. This is a safety feature. The motor will not be damaged by
hooking up the polarity reversed. If the polarity is correct and the ammeter still reads 100 mA
or less, then the motor is not operating. The motor can be removed from the pump without
draining the system. See Figure 10-3. Remove the four cap screws on the interface piece. The
pump will remain in the system.
Different bus systems will operate at different set points. The amp
reading for properly operating pumps should remain fairly consistent
throughout the same bus model and year.
429
MOTOR WILL NOT OPERATE
1. Check the connections to the motor terminals to verify that the (+) positive and (–) negative leads
are connected to the proper supply voltage. If the leads are reversed the unit will not operate. The
motor on a 24 VDC system will not run, but will operate properly when the polarity has been
corrected. Check the circuit breaker to verify that it is functioning properly.
2. Check the motor connections with a voltmeter to verify that the proper voltage is being supplied
to the motor.
3. If the motor has the proper voltage supplied and still does not operate, then there is a problem
with the motor. The motor needs to be serviced by an AMETEK approved service facility or
returned to AMETEK if it is still under warranty.
Booster Pump Motor Replacement

Removal
1. Please refer to Figure 10-3. Disconnect the pump and motor from the power source.
2. Remove the four socket head screws and the four washers. This will allow the motor and con-
necting housing to be removed from the pump head without draining the cooling system.
3. Move the motor and connecting housing to a clean work area.
4. Remove the plastic hole plug from the connecting housing. Using an Allen wrench through the
hole in the connecting housing, loosen and remove the drive magnet assembly.
5. Remove the four flat head screws from the connecting housing. The motor is now ready to be
repaired as needed.
Assembly
1. Clean all parts with a soft cloth. Remove any loose metal particles that have been attracted to the
magnet assembly.
2. Install the connecting housing onto the motor. Install and tighten the four flat head screws to
23–25 in-lb.
3. Install the drive magnet assembly on to the rotor shaft. Line up the set screws with the flats on
the motor shaft through the hole in the connecting housing, and tighten to 50–55 in-lb. Replace
the plastic plug. Use RTV 732 black sealant.
4. Carefully assemble the motor and connecting housing back on to the pump using the four cap
screws and washers, tightening to 55–60 in-lb. Care should be taken to not damage the cup mag-
net assembly when installing on the pump.
5. Connect the power connector from the motor to the bus and energize the pump. Check to verify
the pump is operating properly.
430
Motor
Socket Head
Cap Screw (4x)
Flatwasher (4x)
Connecting Housing
Drive Magnet
Connecting Housing
Mounting Lug
90°
Hole Plug
(Set Screw Motor Flat
Access Hole)
Flat Head Screw (4x)
Pump Housing Drive Magnet

Assy Set Screw (2x)
Torque: 50-55 in-lb
Inside face of drive magnet Motor Shaft

should be flush with end
of shaft.
Figure 10-3, Replacing Motor
431
Coolant Pump Motor Bearing Replacement
Disassembly
1. Remove the motor from the pump by removing the four cap screws. (See Figure 10-3.)
2. Move motor to a proper clean work area.
3. Refer to Figure 10-4. Remove the four rear endbell screws. Remove endbell, noting any shims
and their location, if so equipped.
4. Remove shaft / rotor assembly, making sure shims remain seated in the front endbell if so
equipped. Caution should be taken not to damage the encoder magnet on the end of the shaft.
5. Remove the snap ring from the shaft, but not remove any shims or the compression spring. Re-
move bearings by sliding them off, and discard them.
6. Clean the bearing seat with #800 emery cloth to allow for the new bearings to slip on. No lubri-
cation should be needed.
Assembly
1. Install new bearings. Make sure the compression spring and any shims are installed in the same
location they were removed from. NOTE: The snap ring should be installed with the rounded
side facing the bearing.
2. Gently install the shaft / rotor assembly back into the motor, making sure it does not contact the
housing or stator. Care should be taken not to chip or damage the magnets.
3. Check the O-ring on the endbell for damage, and replace as necessary. Install the endbell, check-
ing to make sure the shims (if equipped) are in the same position as when the endbell was re-
moved. Tighten the four screws. Check that the shaft / rotor assembly has spring by pushing on
the shaft end. The shaft should spring back if properly installed.
4. Hook up the motor leads to the proper input voltage and energize. Check that the motor is oper-
ating in the proper rotation and that the current draw is approximately 1 amp after 1 minute of
operation.
5. Reassemble the motor to the pump using the same cap screws. Connect the input connector to
the bus connector. Check to verify the pump is operating properly.
432
Circuit Board/
Heat-Sink Assembly
Pan-Head Screw Pan-Head Screw
Electronics Housing
Flat Washer
O-Ring
Wave Washer Motor Lead Wires

Shim
Shaft/Rotor
Assembly With Heat-Sink Tubing
Ball Bearings
Stator/Housing Assembly
Ball Bearings
Stator Lead Wires
Baseplate
Flat Washer
Socket-Head Screw
Figure 10-4, Coolant Pump Motor
433
Electronic Components Replacement
Disassembly
1. Remove the motor from the pump by removing the four cap screws (see Figure 10-3).
2. Move the motor to a clean work area.
3. Note and mark the location of the lead wire exit grommet on the electronics assembly housing.
4. Remove the two screws and washers that secure the electronics housing / heat sink assembly.
5. Remove the electronics housing / heat sink assembly from the motor. Pry off the old electronics
assembly from the housing. A press may be used if needed.
6. Clean the electronics housing making sure all of the old RTV sealant is removed and place the
housing back on the motor. Check the O-ring and replace if damaged.
7. Unscrew the electronics assembly leads from the connector and discard the old electronics.
Assembly
1. Screw on the new electronics assembly by attaching the Stator/PCB Hookup
leads to the positions indicated in Figure 10-5. Lead Color CW CCW
WH/BK E7 E7
2. Run a bead of electronic compatible RTV such as Dow WH/yE E8 E9
Corning 3145 around the electronics housing. Place the yE E9 E8
BE E10 E11
electronics assembly at the approximate position of the WH/BE E11 E10
old electronics noted in step 3 above. Check to verify
the lead wires do not rub on the shaft. E7 E8
E11 E10 E9
3. Hook up an ammeter to the motor leads, red (+), black
(–). Energize with the proper voltage. Rotate the elec-
tronics assembly by 15 degrees clockwise and counter
clockwise until the current draw of the motor is at it’s
lowest, approximately 1 amp.
4. Check to verify that the motor is rotating in the proper Figure 10-5, Stator/PCB Hookup,
direction. Install the two screws and washers to hold the 4 Phase, Half Wave
electronics assembly in place.
5. Reassemble the motor to the pump by attaching the four
cap screws. When complete, verify that the pump is
operating properly.
434
Auxiliary Coolant Heater (Optional)
The optional auxiliary heater can be used for additional passenger heating during very cold weather or to
preheat the engine coolant for easier cold starting. The coolant heater works by burning diesel fuel and
can be dangerous if used incorrectly. Consult the OEM documentation included in the manual package
for buses with this option, and refer to the “Preventive Maintenance” chapter of this manual.
In some cases, the auxiliary coolant heater (optional) will operate even
with the ignition turned off. This may create a fire or exhaust gas hazard
in an enclosed space. Always make sure the coolant heater has not been
unintentionally left on when you leave the bus.
435
436
Chapter 11– Body and Interior
Underbody
An underseal is sprayed onto the bottom of the chassis to protect the underbody from corrosion caused
by exposure to and/or accumulation of caustic elements, particularly road salt and de-icing sprays. Typi-
cally, the underseal will last the lifetime of the vehicle, as long as it remains intact and undamaged by
gravel, debris, road salt, etc. The underbody must be checked regularly to ensure that the protective coat-
ing is in good condition. The underseal should be inspected every three months or 12,000 miles (more
often in areas with heavy corrosion problems) and reapplied if necessary. If a small area is damaged, you
can repair it with a spray underbody coating, such as 3M rubberized undercoating or Krylon 1335. Areas
requiring special attention are the wheel arches and the area around and behind the rear wheels. If a large
section is damaged, use a water-base undercoating such as PPG CoraShield 7972. Contact your Gillig
Service representative for more information. If there is a bare, rusted section on the underbody, Gillig
recommends the use of Extend®, a Loctite® rust-treatment product. Then apply undercoating. Contact
your Gillig Parts representative at (800) 735-1500 for approved undercoating and rust-treatment prod-
ucts. All air bags and other rubber components should be masked to protect them from the under-
coating, which will damage the rubber.
The undercoating and understructure should be hosed off and inspected

frequently and undercoating reapplied if necessary. Pay special attention
to the undercoating in the wheel arches and the area around and behind
the rear wheels. Corrosion will result from deteriorated undercoating.
Corrosion Protection
The chassis and underbody components are designed and manufactured to maximize strength, durability,
reliability, and corrosion resistance. Without regular maintenance, however, normal wear and tear, road
debris, road salt, and the newer chemical de-icers will damage and corrode these components.
Of particular concern are the newer chemical anti-icers and de-icers, which state and county authori-
ties began using in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s. These new de-icers, such as magnesium chloride,
calcium chloride, and similar solutions and acetates, are generally more effective, less costly, and
less environmentally harmful than traditional road salt (sodium chloride), but they are also significantly
more corrosive. They attack virtually all metals, and they even corrode stainless steel, aluminum, and
other materials that normally resist corrosion from road salt. These de-icers are usually applied in liquid
form. When kicked up by vehicle tires, the liquid de-icer becomes a mist that settles all over the bus and
even wicks into structural joints and electrical connectors. In addition, the de-icer chemicals are “sticky,”
so their residue does not easily wash off, and they start corroding bus components within 72 hours. They
are hydrophilic (attracting moisture from the air), which means that galvanic corrosion can continue all
year long. (Road salt stops corroding when dry and can be easily washed off.) The result is that these
chemicals corrode vehicle components five or more times faster than road salt. Fleet owners report cor-
437
Body and Interior
rosion that would normally take 12 years to occur is now occurring in as little as two years because of
these liquid chemical de-icers.
These new chemical de-icers corrode and damage body structure, wick into connectors and damage elec-
trical systems, and work their way under brake linings and corrode brake shoes (causing “rust jacking”).
These chemicals also attack and pit both steel and aluminum wheels, causing them to deteriorate and
loosen. Almost all exposed underbody and chassis components can be attacked by de-icing chemicals.
The defense against these aggressive chemicals is to clean them off as soon as possible. If these
chemicals are used in your area, Gillig recommends that a pressurized underside wash, described
below, be done at least twice weekly during the winter.
When cleaning the underbody with a pressurized wash, be careful not to damage the undercoating with
too much pressure. Excessive pressure can peel the undercoating from the underbody. We recommend
that only clean water be used in the bus wash and that if the water is recycled, it be purified first, so that
the washed-off chemicals are not reapplied. We suggest that chemical cleaners (such as “Mag Buster
Winter Wash” by Five Star Chemical Co. of Colorado or “Bright” by Advantage Coatings and Cleaners
of Colorado, etc.) be used to remove and neutralize the chemical de-icers used in your area. We also rec-
ommend that regular underside inspections be conducted, and that missing or damaged undercoating
be repaired or reapplied. Any corrosion should be cleaned off, and undercoating or other protections
(sealers, coating, etc.) should be applied to the exposed surfaces. We recommend di-electric grease be
reapplied to all electrical connectors and connections and that inspections include brake shoes and
wheels.
To maintain Gillig’s structural and corrosion warranty coverage in areas using magnesium chloride and
similar de-icers, vehicles should be frequently and properly washed (see above), any damage or corro-
sion repaired (see above), and an annual underside inspection report must be sent to Gillig’s Warranty
Department within 60 days of the inspection so Gillig can institute corrective action before it’s too late.
See your specific warranty documents for terms, conditions, and limitations.
Please refer to Gillig Field Service Bulletins FS-2001-03 and FS-2003-06 for additional information.
Road sand, salt, and rocks will sandblast bus undercarriages and remove
protective coatings. The underbody should be washed frequently and
inspected, especially at dirt collection points. Any areas with rust showing
and/or protective coating missing must be cleaned and the protective
coating must be reapplied.
Road de-icing liquid chemical sprays such as magnesium chloride or
calcium chloride can cause serious corrosion to structural elements, brake
systems, electrical systems, wheels, etc., which could lead to component
failure and degraded performance. These liquid de-icers and their mists
are very invasive; they wick into joints, electrical connectors and other
areas, making them difficult to remove. Also since they are hydrophilic,
they continue corroding all year. Therefore, proper cleaning (including
disassembly) and reapplication of protective coatings is essential.
438
Body and Interior
Exterior
Side Framing and Skins

The frame structure is made of rectangular alumi-
num extrusions bolted together using cobolt/gusset
construction.
Aluminum is used for the exterior skins because
it is durable and does not rust. Refer to the “Body
Repair and Painting” section of this chapter for
repair and painting instructions.
Aluminum is used for lower skirt panels and for
access doors, which are hinged panels used to
5+ mm
enclose component and accessory compartments
around the vehicle.
Cobolt/Gusset Connections Figure 11-1, Gusset and Clamping Plate

To achieve a perfect rotation of the clamping plate
in its final position, the plate must be able to turn
freely. Therefore the clearance between gusset and
clamping plate must be at least 5mm (see Figure
11-1). 3
The screw must be screwed in by 1 to 1 1/2 turns
into the thread of the clamping plate, until a slight
resistance of the red self-locking agent can be felt.
This self-locking agent will prevent the screw from
coming loose, once the screw is completely tight-
ened.
1
Never reuse Torx screws and

clamping plates! After installation, 2 4
you have 15 minutes to make
adjustments before the locking Figure 11-2, Torque Sequence
agent dries. If installation must
be redone, ALWAYS use new Torx
screws and new clamping plates!
In addition, always check that the
gusset is in perfect condition with
no cracks or deformities.
439
Body and Interior
Before tightening the screws, make sure that the gusset lies snugly on
the profiles, without any gaps.
Tighten the screws in the order shown in Figure 11-2. Torque to 186 ± 9 in-lb.
After installation, make a visual check to determine that the clamping plates have rotated into their cor-
rect position (see Figure 11-3). After a faulty installation, note the instructions described in “Possible
Errors and Solutions” below.
Before Installation Installed

Figure 11-3, Position of Clamping Plates
Errors and Solutions
Error Noticed immediately Noticed after more than

after installation 15 minutes
Incorrect fastener • Dismount corner gusset. • Dismount corner gusset.
torque: too loose or too • Check the bores. If damaged, • Check the bores. If damaged,
tight replace the gusset. replace the gusset.
• Check the threads. If damaged, • Check the threads. If damaged,
replace the plates. replace the plates.
• Reinstall the gussets as de- • Replace screws in any case!
scribed above. • Reinstall the gussets as de-
scribed above.
One side of the gusset • Loosen screws on the “good” • Dismount corner gusset.
is not flush with the side. • Replace screws in any case!
profile. • Tighten screws on the faulty • Reinstall the gusset as de-
side to specified value. scribed above.
• Tighten the remaining screws
to specified value.
440
Body and Interior
Error Noticed immediately Noticed after more than
after installation 15 minutes
One or more clamping • Loosen the screw of the faulty • Remove and replace the screw
plates are not properly clamping plate. of the faulty clamping plate.
rotated into final posi- • Retighten the screw to specified • Replace screws in any case!
tion. value. • Tighten the screw to specified
• Check that the position of the value.
clamping plate is now correct. • Check that the position of the
clamping plate is now correct.
Corner gusset laterally • Loosen all four screws. • Remove and replace all four
misaligned. • Move the gusset to correct screws!
position • Reinstall the gusset as de-
• Tighten the screws to specified scribed above.
value.
Cobolt/Gusset Repair
Never reuse Torx screws and clamping plates! After installation, you
have 15 minutes to make adjustments before the locking agent dries.
If installation must be redone, ALWAYS use new Torx screws and new
clamping plates! In addition, always check that the gusset is in perfect
condition with no cracks or deformities.
Dismounting
• Clean the Torx screw head.
• Use only the correct Torx wrench.
• In order to loosen the self-locking adhesive, first tighten the screw a little, then unscrew by inter-
mittently loosening and tightening the screw until it is “rocked” free and can be taken out.
Checking
• Check the corner gusset for deformation or cracking, especially at the bores and the radii. Replace
the corner gusset if any fault is visible.
• Check the profiles in the region of the connecting surfaces to the corner gusset for deformation or
cracking. Replace or rectify the profiles if any fault is visible.
• Check the clamping plate for deformation and check that the thread is undamaged. Replace the
clamping plate if any faults are visible
• The Torx screws must be replaced in any case!
441
Body and Interior
Installation Notes
When pre-assembling the corner gusset, the screw must be screwed in by 1 to 1 1/2 turns into the thread
of the clamping plate, until a slight resistance of the self-locking agent can be felt.
Fit the prepared corner gusset to the pillar-profile carefully as shown in Figure 11-2 and tighten the
screws in the described order to the correct torque of 186 ± 9 in-lb.
Now fit the pillar with the pre-installed corner gusset on the second profile, making sure that the cor-
ner gusset is well positioned and tighten the screws in the described order to the correct torque of
186 ± 9 in‑lb.
A visual check will show if the clamping plates are properly set and if the alignment of the gusset is cor-
rect.
Skirt Panels
All the skirt panels on the Low Floor bus can be easily removed and replaced. There are two types
of skirt panels: the hinged type, which serves as an access door, and the fixed type, which cannot be
opened. Although skirt panels can be repaired following procedures provided in the “Body Repair and
Paint” Section, it is often more cost effective to replace the entire panel. Part numbers for each panel are
provided in the Parts Manual supplied with the bus. Special techniques are used to remove and install
both types of skirt panels.
Fixed Skirt Panels

Many of the skirt panels on the
Low Floor are not meant to provide
access to components and cannot
be opened. These panels are held
in place by a locking slot system at
the top and bolts at the bottom.
Removal
1. Remove the bolts along the
lower edge of the panel.
Remove or disconnect any Figure 11-4, Removing Fixed Skirt Panel
lights, speakers, etc. from
the panel
2. Pull the lower edge of the panel outward a few inches, taking care not to bend or damage it.
3. Using a deadblow hammer, tap downward first on one lower edge, then the other, to “rock” the
panel out of the upper mounting slot (see Figure 11-4). If any of the tape/skirt-edge trim remains
in the slot on the bus body after the panel’s removal, remove it from the slot.
442
Body and Interior
2"
Tape should be equally spaced
2" at each (10" min. / 13" max.) on each panel.
end of panel
Bus Body
Figure 11-5, Spacing for Tape/Skirt-edge Trim
Bus Body
Installation
1. Apply tape/skirt-edge trim onto the top edge of the panel. Refer to
Figure 11-5 for spacing.
2. Insert the top of the panel into the skirt mounting slot on the bus body.
The mounting slot has teeth which grip into the tape/skirt-edge trim
(see Figure 11-6 and Figure 11-7). Tape
4. Using a jack positioned in the center of the skirt panel (or two jacks
positioned near the edges), gradually push the panel fully into the slot. Tape
During the process, tap on the panel with a rubber mallet along a line
near the top (see Figure 11-8), being careful not to damage the finish. Skirt Panel
Skirt Panel
To avoid damaging the bottom of the skirt panel when

using a jack during installation, attach a block of wood
to the jack’s lifting surface, preferably one cut to match Figure 11-6, Inserting
the angle of the skirt panel’s lower edge. Skirt Panel Top Edge
5. Install fastening hardware to the underside edge of the panel.

6. Install and/or connect any lights, speakers, etc. on the panel.
.50"
.50"
Tap along this

Panel inserted
line while lifting
with tape
Panel inserted
with tape
Push up gradually with jack or jacks
Figure 11-7, Skirt Panel
Figure 11-8, Installing Fixed Skirt Panel Fully Installedaaaa
443
Body and Interior
Hinged Skirt Panels
Some Low Floor body skirt panels are hinged at the top and serve as
access doors for various components, such as the batteries, radiator, etc.
Removal
1. Release the latches at the lower corners of the panel.
2. Remove or disconnect any gas springs, chains, lights, speakers,
etc.
3. Open the panel to approximately 90° and support it at that posi-
tion.
4. Remove the capscrews and clamping plates which attach the
hinge to the side body extrusion. Maintain support for the panel
as it is freed from the body.
5. Carefully remove the panel from the coach. Use care to ensure
neither the panel nor the coach body is scratched.
Installation
Always use new capscrews and clamping plates

when installing hinged skirt panels! These parts are
available through your Gillig Parts representative.
1. Using new Torx capscrews and clamping plates, install the
Figure 11-9, Cross Section of
capscrews and large flat washers up through the holes in the
Hinged Panel Installation
skirt panel hinge and into the clamping plates. Tighten the
capscrews approximately one and a half turns into the clamp-
ing plates until a slight resistance is felt. Ensure that the concave (cupped) face of the clamping
plates face the hinge flange. Adjust the clamping plates so that they line up parallel to the edges
of the raised flange on the hinge (see Figure 11-10), so that the clamping plates can fit into the
channel on the bus body.
2. Lift the panel and guide the clamping plates into the cor-
responding channel on the bus. Take care to keep them Top of Hinge
aligned correctly as shown in Figure 11-10.
3. With the panel secured in an opened position, tighten
each of the capscrews to 186 ± 9 in-lb torque so that the
clamping plates rotate in the channel and attach the panel Clamping Plates
Before Installation Installed
hinge to the side body structure. Do not overtighten. Figure 11-10, Clamping Plate
4. Install any gas springs, chains, lights, speakers, or other Alignment
accessories removed in step 2 of the removal sequence
above.
444
Body and Interior
Roof Hatches
Your bus is equipped with roof hatches manufactured by Transpec Worldwide. For service information
not found in this manual, contact Transpec Worldwide at (810) 274-9400.
When working on the roof, always use a lockout device so that another
employee doesn’t move the bus or activate high-voltage systems!
Replacement
Replacement of a roof hatch is accomplished by cutting through and removing the UV resistant seal-
ant, and cutting or drilling out the rivets. Replace the sealing tape if necessary. Reposition the hatch and
reverse the removal procedures to secure it to the frame. Apply a UV resistant sealant.
The hatch ring is removed by unscrewing the self tapping screws and removing the ring. Reposition the
replacement ring and secure in place with self tapping screws.
Maintenance
The roof vents should be inspected and cleaned regularly. Fasteners should be inspected for evidence of
loosening and retightened if necessary. Cleaning should be done with a mild soap-and-water solution.
Other cleaning chemicals may damage the hatch surfaces.
Graffiti removal cleaners may contain acetone, ether, lacquer thinner,

or other solvents known to damage plastics. Do not use these cleaners
on any part of the roof hatches. Graffiti-resistant coatings can leave a
residue that interferes with hatch operation; these should also be avoided
on roof hatches.
Repair
All components in the safety hatches are available as service parts except for the hinge assembly; be-
cause the hinge attaches to a hidden tapping plate that is often damaged whenever the hinge is damaged,
the entire cover assembly must be replaced in case of hinge damage. See Figure 11-11 for an exploded
view of a typical roof hatch; your Gillig Parts Manual will have a more comprehensive parts breakdown.
Never attempt to repair a damaged hinge assembly. A repaired hinge

may fail and cause the hatch cover to fly off the bus, creating a hazard.
The entire hatch cover must be replaced in the event of hinge damage.
445
Body and Interior
3
2
4
1
5
12
11
10 8
1 Outside release 9 Trim molding

2 Hinge pin 10 Plunger spring
3 Handle base 11 Link & plunger assembly
4 Release handle 12 Retention cable
5 Release handle shield
6 Main hinge (not serviceable)
7 Release hinge
8 Mounting frame
Figure 11-11, Roof Hatch
446
Body and Interior
Roof Framing and Skin
The roof frame, like the side framing, is also constructed of bolted aluminum extrusions. The roof rail
is a specially designed curved extrusion which joins the roof and sidewall frames together. The exterior
skin of the roof is a continuous one-piece fiberglass sheet glued to the frame. Refer to the “Body Repair
and Painting” section for repair procedures.
Front Structure
The front structure of the coach is framed with aluminum tubing, curved and bolted together to form a
strong, durable frame to hold the front cap, windshields, and front end accessories. Refer to Frame Re-
pair in the Body Repair and Painting section for repair information.
The front cap which covers the front frame structure is molded fiberglass, manufactured to fit snugly
over the frame structure. Minor repairs to the fiberglass cap can be performed by purchasing a fiberglass
kit as instructed in the Fiberglass Repair section. Major damage to the cap may necessitate the purchase
of a complete front cap from Gillig.
Rear Structure
Two large access doors, enclosing the engine compartment and the air conditioning unit, cover most of
the rear structure. Access doors are discussed later in this chapter.
Rear corner panels, situated on either side of the engine access door, below the end cap, are fabricated of
curved aluminum sheets and are glued to the frame.
The rear cap is fabricated of fiberglass. The cap covers the rear of the vehicle above the engine access
door and the rear corner panels, curves around each side from window height to roof, and curves at the
top to overlap the roof along the rear and on each of the sides. The cap encompasses the rear and side
AC access door and the AC vents on each side. At the left rear corner of the roof, the exhaust pipe ex-
tends through a hole cut in the overlapping rear cap. The cap is joined to the rear panels on either side of
the coach above the tail lights with rivets.
A galvanized steel engine compartment heat shield is bolted to the metal tube frame above the engine
compartment to provide a mounting platform for the air conditioning unit and the inner bulkhead. The
shield forms a protective barrier, shielding the AC system, which is mounted on top, from excess heat
from the engine. Various holes are cut into the heat shield for component placement. UL classified poly-
urethane foam, available from Gillig Parts, is used as a fire sealant on large openings on the heat shield
panel where pipes, cables, and hoses pass through. This shield is not insulated and does not require
maintenance.
The inner bulkhead consists of 3/4" thick plywood with sheets of 18-gauge steel laminated on the engine
side and .05" aluminum laminated on the interior side. Air conditioning system controls are accessible
through the hinged grille in the center of the bulkhead, and vent holes are cut into either side of the con-
trol access. The AC system is attached to the bulkhead with bolts. Silicon fire sealant is used throughout
the AC compartment and the engine compartment in small gaps and corners. One inch thick baryfoil in-
sulation is glued and clamped in place. Special fire-retardant stainless steel transition ducts are mounted
with self tapping screws to the vent holes to provide air flow into the coach.
447
Body and Interior
Drip Rails
The drip rails are made of rubber and are mounted by sliding onto the roof rail extension.
Wheel Fenders
Rubber wheel fenders are bolted around the outer wheel sidewall from the inside skirt panel with the
bolts extending into the rubber to keep them hidden from view. Black urethane sealant is applied around
the edges of the fender to prevent water seepage. The fender is replaced by cutting through the urethane
sealant and unbolting the fender from the inside frame.
Bumpers
Front Bumper
The front bumper is a three piece, rubber bumper that is joined on an aluminum channel. The bumper is
connected to the channel at the top and bottom using fiber pins. The channel is mounted to the front of
the vehicle frame with two bumper mounting brackets on each side.
The bumper is removed from the aluminum channel by cutting the fiber pins which hold the rubber se-
curely to the channel. After removing the pins, the bumper will slide off of the channel.
Rear Bumper
The rear bumper is composed of three rubber pieces, two corners and a center, an aluminum channel,
a reinforcement plate, and mounting brackets and hardware. The three rubber bumper pieces are con-
nected to the aluminum channel using fiber pins. A steel reinforcement plate is bolted to the back of the
aluminum channel at the center to help further stabilize and strengthen the bumper. Mounting brackets
are bolted to the aluminum channel and the entire assembly is bolted onto the rear frame.
Bumper pieces are removed by cutting the attaching fiber pins and sliding the piece off of the aluminum
channel. Removal of the center rubber piece requires the removal of a corner piece.
Exterior Mirrors
Exterior mirrors are mounted on the right and left front corners of the coach.
Mounting arms, which are hollow metal tubes with flattened, drilled ends, are filled with silicone to pre-
vent water seepage and rusting of the metal.
Some external mirrors are heated to remove frost or moisture from the viewing surface. Some mirrors
are also remotely adjustable from the drivers seat via an electrical control. Each mirror can be adjusted
vertically and horizontally. Circuit breakers protect the heater and adjustment circuits. Refer to the Elec-
trical Schematics Manual for circuit details.
For mirrors with a grease fitting on the mounting bracket, the lube interval is every 6 months. Besides
periodic cleaning of the mirrors, no other service is required. Your Gillig Parts Manual provides an ex-
ploded diagram of exterior mirror parts.
448
Body and Interior
Windshield Wipers
The coach has two separate electrically operated pantograph type full
sweep windshield wipers with an integral windshield washer spray head
(see Figure 11-12 for a typical electrical wiper assembly). Wiper speeds are
infinitely variable between the minimum and maximum speeds. Speed se-
lection for each wiper is provided by rotary dashboard controls, which have
a provision to return the wiper arms to the park position when shut off.
Figure 11-12, Electric Windshield Wiper
Do not allow the wiper blades to drag on a dry windshield. Doing so will
shorten blade life and place excessive loads on the wiper mechanism, as
well as leaving scratches on the windshield surface. When operating the
windshield wiper motor to test, spray water on the windshield.
449
Body and Interior
Windshield Wiper Inspection
Wipers should be inspected and observed for the following defects and corrections made before the
vehicle is released for service:
• Deterioration of the rubber blade
• Full sweep of the arms
• Spray pattern of the washer nozzles
Replacing Windshield Wipers

To replace the wiper blades it is necessary to replace the entire wiper blade assembly. Replacement
windshield wipers are available through your Gillig Parts representative.
Wiper Arm Removal and Replacement

To remove the wiper arms:
1. Ensure that the arm is in the parked position by turning the control knob fully to the left.
2. Mark the angle of the arm relative to the windshield with a grease pencil.
3. Locate and remove the set screw securing the acorn nut on the end of the idler shaft and then
remove the acorn nut.
4. Remove the two external snaprings and the spacer.
The wiper and pantograph arms can now be removed from their respective shafts. A small two-jaw pull-
er will be useful if the splined surfaces are reluctant to separate. Do not pry on the arms or the fiberglass
windshield frames.
When replacing the arm, ensure that the angle of the arm is aligned with the temporary reference mark.
Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the splined surfaces and then install the arms, snaprings,
spacers, acorn nuts, and set screws. Check for proper operation. If necessary, remove the arms and repo-
sition both using an equal number of splines.
Wiper Motor Removal and Replacement

Using the special key for the tamper proof fasteners, provided with the coach at time of delivery, remove
the four screws from the panel surrounding the wiper arm shaft. Tip the panel outward, remove the elec-
trical connector, and disconnect the small tubing for the spray washer. The entire assembly may then be
removed for bench repair.
Place the assembly, plate down, on a clean surface to protect the paint, and remove the four nuts and
washers separating the plate from the motor assembly. The motor is not repairable and must be replaced
if defective.
Troubleshooting
Refer to the electrical schematic manual for connector and wiring information to troubleshoot the wiring
and switch. If the circuit checks out OK, then the problem is probably in the motor.
450
Body and Interior
Access Doors
Door Latches
Although maintenance of latches is not necessarily required, it is advisable to occasionally apply a light
oil to moveable parts to prevent binding.
Square Head Key Latches

Square head key latches are opened by inserting a 1/4" square headed key
(Figure 11-13) into the square latch hole and turning the key towards the
center of the door panel. This will pivot the locking bar into the bracket.
Both square head key latches on a door must have the latch bar pivoted
away from the outer panel to enable the door to open.
To replace a square head key latch, the Huck bolts should be cut off. Re-
move the old latch and rivet or bolt the new latch into position.
Gas Pressure Door Struts

A gas pressure door strut is a cylinder shaped tube with a sliding shaft that
uses self-generated air pressure to hold access doors in an upright posi-
tion. The strut functions by drawing in air and trapping it in the air tight 30-200-66
cylinder as the sliding shaft is extended. Air is exhausted and pressure is Figure 11-13 Square
released by pushing the sliding shaft into the large cylinder. These struts Head Latch Key
are installed individually or in pairs and are bolted into position at the top
of the door, one on either side. Gas pressure struts are not adjustable. If
one strut of a pair is defective it should be replaced.
Two gas pressure struts are required to safely hold a skirt panel open.
To prevent the panel from falling and causing personal injury when
replacing a gas pressure strut, the skirt panel must be supported by a
device other than the remaining gas pressure spring.
Gas pressure struts do not require regular maintenance. If binding does occur, apply a light oil to the
sliding shaft and to the rubber valve where the shaft slides into the cylinder.
451
Body and Interior
Body Repair and Painting
In addition to following procedures for body repair and painting, carefully observe the instructions pro-
vided with any materials used to perform the repairs, before proceeding with the project.
When working on the roof, always use a lockout device so that another
employee doesn’t move the bus or activate high-voltage systems!
Frame Repair
All welding should be performed by an experienced, certified welder to

assure that any replacement metal is permanently affixed and that the
integrity of the structure is maintained.
Replacement of a bent or damaged frame member will necessitate cutting out the old member and weld-
ing in a piece, which has been cut to fit, from tubing of the same dimensions and thickness to maintain
the integrity of the structure. The Parts Manual illustrates the various tubing available. Contact the Gillig
Service Department if further assistance is required.
Repairing Dents
1. Fill indented section completely with Bondo or body putty and smooth evenly across area until
level with undamaged, surrounding surface. Allow Bondo/body putty to dry completely before
proceeding.
2. Sand area, especially edges, until completely smooth and level with undamaged surface area.
3. Paint following the method described in “Painting Repaired Surfaces,” below.
452
Body and Interior
Repairing Punctures/Tears
To prevent personal injury, extreme care should be taken when working

with sharp edges.
1. Using a slide hammer or similar tool, pull damaged metal outward, level with outer surface, pull-
ing edges as close together as possible.
2. Weld pulled out area if necessary to close large gaps.
3. Spread body filler heavily around and across pulled out metal until area is completely sealed and
the surface is level with undamaged surface.
4. Sand area, paying particular attention to the edges, until completely smooth and level with the
surrounding surface.
5. Paint following the method described in “Painting Repaired Surfaces.”
Painting Repaired Surfaces
Solvents may be volatile and flammable. Keep all solvents away from
open flames or intense heat.
When painting a repaired surface, it may be easier to paint an entire

section, such as a door or panel, than to try to match the paint color for
a small portion of a surface.
To acquire the manufacturer’s color number to match paint for repaired area with paint presently on the
vehicle, contact the Gillig Corporation Parts Department. If an entire panel or section of the vehicle is to
be painted, exact color matching may not be necessary.
1. Thoroughly clean the repaired area and adjoining surface making sure all grease and debris is
removed. Sanded, filled area should be perfectly smooth to the touch.
2. Apply primer to any areas which have been sanded down to bare metal.
3. Apply paint evenly across surface, following manufacturer’s directions. Make sure paint does not
drip or run.
4. Allow paint to dry for several hours, as recommended by manufacturer’s instructions, before
exposing to dust or adverse weather and before applying any decals.
453
Body and Interior
Fiberglass Repair
It is advisable to refer any large fiberglass repair projects to experienced body repair shops.
To repair small fiberglass sections, fiberglass repair kits can be purchased from local paint shops. In-
structions provided with the repair kits should be reviewed and adhered to.
Exterior Cleaning
Establishing a routine cleaning program is essential for maintaining the original appearance of the ve-
hicle.
To protect the enamel finish, do not wash the vehicle with hot water, in direct sunlight, or when the exte-
rior surface is hot. Do not wipe dirt or weather filming from dry surfaces; doing so will scratch the paint.
To wash the exterior surface, cool or lukewarm water should be used along with a soft cloth or chamois
and mild vehicle detergent. After applying detergent with the cloth or chamois and rubbing dirt from the
surface, thoroughly flush the exterior with clean water to remove all soap and residue.
Acrylic surfaces may be cleaned using a non-abrasive plastic cleaner, applied in thin coats using light
pressure. Buffing with a clean soft cloth will add luster to the finish. Product instructions and recommen-
dations should be followed.
Selected solvents are useful in removing difficult substances (graffiti, tar, grease, oils, etc.). Isopropyl
alcohol or a solvent which is one percent dimethyl silicone, such as cellosolve, will effectively remove
the compounds mentioned above.
Polishing painted sheet metal surfaces at regular intervals after washing with detergent and water will
provide additional protection against buildup of materials which are hazardous to paint finishes.
When using automatic washing systems, manufacturers instructions and recommendations should be
strictly adhered to.
Solvents may be volatile and flammable. Keep all solvents away from
open flames or intense heat.
Static electricity generated by rubbing the surface, especially during
dry weather, may cause ignition. Normal precautions must be observed
to prevent personal injury.
Uninhibited alkaline cleaners or acids may cause anodized aluminum

parts to break down. When using any solvent or detergent, always read
instructions to determine if the product will be safe to use as intended.
454
Body and Interior
Exterior Lights
When cleaning the lenses of all exterior lights (excluding the bus headlights), make sure you use
solvents or cleaners that are compatible with polycarbonate. Refer to the list below.
The use of solvents that are not compatible with polycarbonate will
result in the softening, crazing, and/or cracking of polycarbonate lamps
and mounting bases.
Cleaning Materials for External Lights

The following solvents/cleaners ARE COMPATIBLE with polycarbonate:
Mild soap and water 10% Sol Ban Ami®
Mineral Spirits Dirtex®
Hexane 2% Sol. Reg. Joy
VM and P Naphtha Heptane
Varsol No. 2 White Kerosene
#1 and #3 denatured alcohol Methyl, isopropyl and isobutyl alcohols
Freon TF and TE-35 Lacryl® PCL-2035 polycarbonate cleaner
Ethanol Petroleum Ether/65 degrees C boiling point
The following solvents/cleaners MUST NOT BE USED with polycarbonate:

Triclor (Trichlorethylene) Agitene®
Acetone AJAX®
Triclene® All liquid detergents
Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK) Pink Lux® (phosphate free)
MIBK Diversol®
Toluol Lemon Joy® (phosphate free)
Benzol (Benzene) Kleenol Plastics
Gasoline Lestoil®
Carbon Tetrachloride Stanisol Naphtha®
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons Oils
Texine-8006, 8129, 8758 Antifreeze
Liquid Cleaner - 8211
Questions as to compatibility of other specific materials should be directed to Gillig Corporation.
455
Body and Interior
Interior
Roof
The roof interior consists of a layer of insulating, fire retardant closed-cell foam positioned between the
framing. Wiring for lights is attached to the roof bows. To finish the interior roof, melamine panels are
then screwed down using self tapping screws. Rubber “H” molding is used between panel junctures to
hide seams.
Sidewall Panels
Removal of interior panels is accomplished by removing the attaching screws from the edge of the panel
and pulling the bottom edge away from the wall, then sliding the panel down and away from the upper
trim molding. Panels are easily replaced by inserting the top panel, at an angle, into to upper molding,
pushing the panel into place against the sidewall, and replacing the screws along the bottom edge.
Although dents or cracks in the melamine panels can be repaired by using Bondo, it is usually advis-
able that any damaged panels be replaced. Difficulty in paint color matching should be considered when
deciding whether to repair or replace a damaged panel. Panels may be ordered from the Gillig Parts
Department.
Interior post caps, which cover the posts between windows, are affixed with wide double-sided tape.
These are removed by first removing the adjacent windows and then peeling the panel off of the post.
Refer to the Window section in this chapter for instructions on window removal and replacement. To
replace the panel, apply wide double-sided tape to the post, attach the replacement panel to the post, and
reinstall the windows.
Wheel Wells
Wheel wells are made of stainless steel sheets which are first welded together and then welded to the
floor frame and riveted to the side frame
Minor dents can be repaired by following procedures provided in the Body Repair and Paint section of
this chapter. Large dents, punctures, or tears in the sheet metal will require the replacement of the entire
wheel well. After all seats and flooring have been removed from the work area, remove the entire wheel
well by cutting through the weld spots. The new well should be welded securely in place and the floor-
ing and seating repositioned and secured by reversing the methods used in removal.
Cleaning Plastic Surfaces

Interior plastic surfaces, including the dash and console panels, should be cleaned with a mild detergent
diluted with water. Rinse with clear water. For difficult cleaning, Gillig suggests using Surtec HC-150
Heavy Duty Cleaner Concentrate (Aircraft, Vehicle & Pressure Wash Cleaner), Surtec CC-109 Glass
Cleaner Concentrate, and Surtec Safesol IS-840 Safety Solvent Degreaser, Ink & Graffiti Remover,
available through your Gillig Parts representative.
456
Body and Interior
Flooring
The flooring used is undercoated 3/4" preservative-impregnated, pressure-treated plywood or optional
composite panels, attached with industrial-strength adhesive/sealer and floor rivets. All surface irregular-
ities are filled with fiberglass Bondo and sanded smooth. Rubber matting is cemented over the plywood.
Cleaning
When cleaning the floor, we recommend using a broom and mop, and
not a hose. We also recommend that caulking/sealer in flooring seams be
regularly inspected and maintained. Cracks in the flooring or at seams
can allow water or other liquids to seep through and damage the flooring
adhesive and the plywood floor. Any spilled liquids should be mopped
up as soon as possible.
All matting seams and joints must be kept sealed with floor sealer. The plywood flooring can be de-
teriorated by excessive moisture, so matting should be resealed every three years. The proper type
and color sealer can be purchased through the Gillig Parts Department.
To clean the bus floor, use a damp mop and a degreaser detergent with a PH of no more than 10 mixed
with warm water in a bucket, diluted as recommended by the detergent manufacturer. Apply the deter-
gent solution over the floor surface with a mop. Do not allow solution to completely dry on floor. Pick
up solution with a damp clean mop. Rinse flooring with a mop, using clean cool water to remove deter-
gent.
Matting, Replacement
For safety, the flooring is covered with rubber or slip-resistant vinyl matting, which on some buses
includes a ribbed surface in the aisles. To replace damaged rubber or vinyl matting, remove all seats or
obstacles from the area to be repaired. Cut out and remove the damaged matting. Make sure the ply-
wood flooring is clean, dry, flat, and sanded smooth immediately prior to installation of floor covering.
Seal edges properly against moisture. All surface irregularities must be filled with a flexible patching
compound, such as Bondo. Cut a replacement piece of matting to fit, using the old piece as a pattern if
possible. Glue the new piece into place. All matting edges must be sealed with a floor sealer.
Plywood Flooring, Replacement

To replace the plywood or composite flooring, remove all seats or obstacles from area to be repaired.
Remove rubber matting and cut out damaged area of flooring. Cut a new piece of 3/4" plywood to fit the
damaged section and undercoat it with a water-base undercoating such as PPG CoraShield 7972. For an
exact fit, use the old flooring piece as a pattern when cutting the new flooring. Attach the flooring using
industrial strength contact cement. As explained above, fill in all exposed joints to provide a smooth,
uniform surface for the floor covering.
457
Body and Interior
Passenger Doors
The standard door configuration on a Gillig transit bus is a driver controlled, air operated, front and rear
door. The front doors are opened and closed by an electrically-controlled air motor; the rear doors are
opened by an electrically-controlled air motor and closed with a spring mechanism. Refer to the Air
chapter for a description and operation of the air motor and door air system operation.
The door is made up of two hinged panels, including glazing, and operated by air motors, cams, and
rods. The front door is a slide-glide type in which the panels rotate and articulate sideways to open. The
rear door panels rotate outwards in a 90° arc to open. The operating mechanisms are located in a com-
partment above each door and are connected to a brake interlock, which prevents vehicle motion while
the doors are open. Incorrect operation of the doors or brake interlock could cause injury to passengers,
so it is essential that the doors are checked daily for proper operation and maintained through proper
adjustment and repair.
Safety Features
• Brake Interlock
• Throttle/Transmission Interlock to opeN door
mANuAlly
• Sensitive Edge breAK cover
turN hANdle
• Manual Release
Manual Release
Front Door
To manually operate the door, a red handled
air valve is mounted in the compartment above
the door (see Figure 11-14). Rotating the valve
handle one quarter turn blocks the air supply and
exhausts the air pressure from both cylinders. The
door can then be opened by hand. Normal opera-
tion is restored by returning the valve handle to Figure 11-14, Front Door Manual Release
the original position. A breakable glass panel is
installed in the compartment door to provide emergency access to the manual operator valve. A second
air valve release lever is mounted on the driver’s console. Actuation of this valve will release the air
pressure from both air cylinders. The door can then be opened by hand.
458
Body and Interior
Rear Door
The release handle for the rear doors can be found
in the small metal box located to the left of the
doors (see Figure 11-15). To release the doors,
break the clear cover panel or open the cover of
the box and pull the red handle down. This releases
the cam which holds the doors shut and permits the EM ER GE
NC y Ex
IT
doors to be pushed open by hand. BREAK

WINDO
W
D HA ND LE
PU LL RE
EN
OR TO OP
PUSH DO
Door Control
The front and rear driver operated doors are con-
trolled by a five-position electrical switch mounted
in the driver’s left console. Please see “Door Con-
trol Operation” in the Air System chapter for a
description of standard door control functions.
Interlock Override Switch

The red-covered Interlock Override switch, located Figure 11-15, Rear Door
in the electrical compartment above the driver’s Manual Release
area (see Figure 11-16), can override the interlock
function on your Low Floor bus. When the switch is
in the “On” position, the brakes activate automatically
and the throttle is disabled whenever the rear doors
are opened, the lift is activated, the coach is running
at “fast idle,” or the throttle control on the rear run
INT
E
LOC R-
K
box is being used. When the switch is in the “Over-

OV
E
RID R-
E
ride” position, the brakes are released and the throttle

ON
is operational even when the coach is running at “fast

idle.” Before switching to “Override,” set the park-
ing brake and shift the transmission to neutral to
avoid the unexpected movement of the bus.
Note also that when “Override” is selected, the rear
doors, kneeling system, and lift are rendered inoper-
able.
The override switch should only be

used by a qualified service technician
Figure 11-16, Interlock Switch Location
or driver familiar with its operation
and only in an emergency.
459
Body and Interior
Sensitive Edge Strip
The mating edges of most rear doors have sensitivity strips that will activate a microswitch if an object,
or part of a passenger’s body, is pinched between the doors as the doors close. If this happens, the door
operation will be reversed to the open direction, thus freeing the obstruction. The two rubber door edges
are sealed and connected to two air switches that activate the sensitive edge system to electrically open
the door in the event of an obstruction. The pressure on the edges forces air inside the edges into a tube
running from the edges to the switch, which activates the motor to open the door again.
The sensitive edge system is maintenance free and requires no adjustment. It does, however, require
frequent inspection and testing.
Routine (Daily) Inspection

Verification of sensitive edge system functionality should be performed on a daily basis. This is a simple
test that requires very little time and should be performed before a bus leaves the depot for transit ser-
vice. Before leaving the depot, drivers should first authorize the exit door system via the door controller
and then physically squeeze each sensitive edge by applying minimal force (5 to 10 pounds) to verify
that the doors will cycle open and/or trigger audible alarm.
Quarterly Inspection
The edges should be tested for proper functionality once every three to four months in the following
manner:
California Highway Patrol Obstruction Sensing Test

Authorize and open the doors. Place a 1" diameter solid rod (cylinder) at roughly the center of the clear
door opening. Command the doors to close. When the sensitive edges encounter the rod during the clos-
ing cycle, the doors should recycle open and/or an audible alarm should sound. The doors should not
close on the rod without detecting it as an obstruction. This test should be performed at various positions
along the sensitive edge, preferably, near the top, middle and bottom. Please note that the edges may not
sense an obstruction inserted approximately 1 1/2" from the very top or very bottom of the edge.
Cylinder Extraction Test

With bus power off, open the exit doors and insert a 1.5" diameter smooth rod (cylinder) near the center
of the clear opening and allow the door edges to close over the cylinder. Using a force gage attached to
the rod, pull the rod out from in between the edges. The maximum force measured should not exceed 35
pounds.
460
Body and Interior
Front Doors
The front doors on your bus operate using components and mechanisms supplied by the Vapor Corpora-
tion. For any door operation or maintenance information not supplied in this manual, contact the Vapor
Corporation at (847) 967-8300.
Spherical Teeter Plate Opening Speed

Bearing (Appearance may vary) Adjustment (Rear)
(Both Ends) Closing Speed
Adjustment (Front)
Lock Nuts Connecting Rod
Connecting
Rod Cushioning
Adjustments
Lock Nuts
#1 Door Panel (Front) #2 Door Panel (Rear)
Figure 11-17, Front Door Mechanism
Front Door Adjustment Procedure

Follow these instructions when front doors require adjustment.
1. Familiarize yourself with the locations of the connecting rods and adjustment controls (closing
speed, opening speed, cushioning). Refer to Figure 11-17.
2. Prior to making any adjustments, check the air system pressure; there must be at least 90 psi for
correct adjustments.
3. Exhaust the door engine by opening the manual air valve. Doors can now be manually opened.
4. Loosen lock nuts on both ends of each connecting rod.
5. Disconnect the connecting rods from the teeter plate (see Figure 11-18).
Remove all tools and keep hands away from all moving parts when
pressurizing the door motor.
6. Make sure the connecting rods are clear of the teeter plate. Keeping hands and tools away from
moving parts, close the manual air valve and move the door controller to the “CLOSED” posi-
tion. The teeter plate will move to the door closed position.
7. Close the rear (#2) door panel. Grasp the rear door spherical rod end at the teeter plate to prevent
it from turning and turn the connecting rod until the rod end can slip onto the pin on the teeter
plate. Install the washer and lightly tighten the nut.
461
Body and Interior
Lock Nuts
Lock Nuts
#1 Door Panel (Front) #2 Door Panel (Rear)
Figure 11-18, Disconnecting Connecting Rods
8. Close the front (#1) door panel. Grasp the front door spherical rod end at the teeter plate to
prevent it from turning and turn the connecting rod until the rod end can slip onto the pin on the
teeter plate. Install the washer and lightly tighten the nut.
9. With connecting rods installed, shorten each rod by rotating the rod a maximum of 2 turns each.
While turning, watch the door panels to make sure that they are moving outwardly at the trailing
edges and tightening against the door post seal.
10. Check for proper closing by first opening doors and then closing; observe the leading edges when
they meet at the center. The rear (#2) panel should lead the front (#1) panel when closing. If the
rear panel does not lead, lengthen the front panel connecting rod until the rear panel leads with
no butting or touching as the edges overlap at the center.
With the connecting rods correctly adjusted, the teeter plate should
be about 7º from the fully closed position. It is very important that
preloading should not prevent the piston from bottoming against the
center casting. The extra rotation will take up all the clearances in the
linkage. NEVER adjust the connecting rods so that the piston does not
bottom in the doors closed position.
11. Before tightening the connecting rod lock nuts, check the con-
necting rod spherical ends. They should be aligned at 90º on
their pins and rock freely to utilize their self-alignment feature. 90
See Figure 11-19.
Figure 11-19, Rod End

Alignment
462
Body and Interior
Front Door Speed Adjustment
The speed of door opening and closing can be adjusted at the door motor, as can the rate of cushioning
during door operation. Refer to Figure 11-17 and Figure 11-20 for the locations of the door speed adjust-
ment screws. Always make the speed adjustments in the following order:
Do not overtighten or force adjustment screws. Damage to the needles

and seats may result.
1. Adjust the closing speed by loosening the jam nut on the closing speed adjustment screw, then
turning the screw until door closing speed is satisfactory. Backing the screw out (counterclock-
wise) increases closing speed.
2. Adjust the opening speed by loosening the jam nut on the closing speed adjustment screw, then
turning the screw until door opening speed is satisfactory. Backing the screw out (counterclock-
wise) increases opening speed. Don’t worry about the doors slamming against the jamb at this
point.
3. Adjust the cushioning rate by loosening the jam nut on the cushioning adjustment screw and then
turning the screw until the door no longer slams open. Turning the screw in (clockwise) gives
you more damping. If necessary, readjust the opening speed (Step 2) until the cushioning rate is
satisfactory.
4. Once all three adjustments are correct, tighten the jam nuts.
CONNECTING ROD CLOSING SPEED

ADJUSTMENT
OPENING SPEED
ADJUSTMENT
CUSHIONING
ADJUSTMENT
20-900-21
Figure 11-20, Door Speed Adjustments
463
Body and Interior
Electrical Switch Adjustment
Adjust any electrical switches which contact the teeter plate for a minimum of .015" of overtravel (the
movement allowed in the switch after actuation before the switch lever and plunger bottoms) after actua-
tion. Proximity switches (see Figure 11-21) should be adjusted to provide a 4mm gap between the switch
and the teeter plate at the closest point in the teeter plate’s travel.
Figure 11-21, Proximity Switch and Teeter Plate
Front Door Maintenance

All bushings and moving parts in the Vapor door mechanism are sealed and/or permanently lubricated
and require no maintenance other than regular inspection and adjustment.
464
Body and Interior
Rear doors
The rear doors on your bus operate using components and mechanisms supplied by the Vapor Corpora-
tion. For any door operation or maintenance information not supplied here, contact the Vapor Corpora-
tion at (847) 777-6400 / www.vapordoors.com.
1
5
3 2
8 6
7
4
9
10 11
8
12
13
1 Solenoid Assembly 6 Cushion Speed Adj. Screw 11 LS3 Switch

2 Lock Pawl Assembly 7 Closing Speed Adj. Screw 12 Cam & Lever Assembly
3 LS2 Switch 8 Connecting Rods 13 Closing Spring
4 LS1 Switch 9 Open Speed Adj. Screw
5 Cylinder Assembly 10 Emergency Release
Figure 11-22, Typical Rear Door Baseplate Assembly
465
Body and Interior
Spring-Closed Rear Door Connecting Rod Adjustment
The connecting rods join the bell crank assembly and the hinge post levers. The connecting rods act as
a turnbuckle to control the closing and opening relationship between each door panel, so that the door
edges do not bind or contact upon closing.
1. Check the operation of the door panels and diagnose the problem. The door panels should reach
full closure at the same time and the seals should match. If not, decide which connecting rods
need adjustment.
2. Access the connecting rods by opening the hinged panel over the door.
3. Release door lock pawl.
4. Loosen the two jam nuts at the ends of the connecting rod.
5. Turn the connecting rod shaft clockwise to shorten or counterclockwise to lengthen the connect-
ing rod.
6. Lengthen the right hand connecting rod to close the door against the closed stop (bottom of step).
Continue to turn the rod while watching the lock pawl cam notch gap. Make sure that the gap is
between 1/16" and 1/8".
7. Lengthen the left hand connecting rod until the left hand door panel closes against the closed
stop and is preloaded against the seals.
8. Manually push both panels open and allow to close. Check for proper timing between the two
edges.
9. Return the emergency release lever to the normal position and check door operation.
10. When the adjustments are satisfactory, lock the connecting rods in place by tightening the jam
nuts.
11. Release the door lock. Connect a spring scale to the leading edge or each door panel and en-
sure that a maximum of 14 lbs. (6.4 kg) load will hold open each panel. If not, loosen the return
spring anchor locknut. Adjust the return spring anchor as necessary to achieve the required ten-
sion. Tighten the lock nut.
12. Return the release lever to the normal position, close and secure the hinged panel above the door,
and check once again for proper door operation.
13. Ensure that the lock pawl and microswitches are adjusted correctly as outlined as described in a
following section.
466
Body and Interior
Rear Door Microswitch Adjustment
Adjustments should be performed in the following sequence (Note: The LS2 and LS3 microswitches are
typically present only on buses equipped with touchbar-actuated rear doors. Your bus may not have the
LS2 and LS3 switches):
1. LS1 Switch adjustment
Connecting rod adjustment
2. Unlock solenoid adjustment
Emergency release
Door stops
Cylinder rod adjustment
5. Touchbars
6. Door speed adjustments
7. Check components and hardware
8. Check wiring
Rear Door Adjustment Procedures

LS1 Adjustment
The LS1 Switch is used to activate the brake interlock circuit. This switch has two separate circuits, one
which is normally open and another which is normally closed; one or both of the switch circuits will be
used depending on the options installed on your bus. Refer to the Gillig Electrical Schematics Manual
for your bus for specific information on the LS1 switch circuits. The LS1 switch MUST be activated
with the doors locked (while the lock pawl is engaged in the cam notch). The LS1 switch plunger MUST
NOT bottom out. If the LS1 switch is mounted directly on the lock pawl, no adjustment is needed. See
Figure 11-23.
soleNoid
soleNoid
cAm l
w
pA cAm l
cK ls1 w
lo pA
cK
2
ls
lo
ADJUSTING SCREW
2
ls
ls1
1/16" MIN - 1/8" MAX 0.016" FEELER GAUGE WHEN
LS1 PLUNGER IS BOTTOMED THIS LS1 CONFIGURATION
NOTE: ADJUST CONN RODS
REQUIRES NO ADJUSTMENT
WITH DOORS CLOSED TO NOTE: LS1 SWITCH MUST AC-
OBTAIN THIS DIMENSION TIVATE WHEN LOCK PAWL IS
ENGAGED IN NOTCH CAM
Figure 11-23, LS1 Switch Adjustment
467
Body and Interior
soleNoid
cAm
l
w
pA
cK
1/8" MINIMUM lo 2 ls1 ADJUSTMENT
ls
CLEARANCE IN SCREWS
THE ENERGIZED
POSITION ADJUSTMENT
SCREWS
0.016" FEELER GAUGE WHEN LS2 IS BOTTOMED
Connecting Rod Adjustment (Cam to door lever rods)

Check that the lock pawl-cam notch gap is correct with doors fully closed. This gap should be between
1/16" and 1/8". Adjust connecting rods to achieve the proper gap.
Unlock Solenoid Adjustment

Fully actuate the emergency linkage so that the lock pawl falls into, and is retained by, the emergency
cam notch. Position the unlock solenoid so that the lock pawl is released by the emergency cam when
the solenoid is energized. If LS2 bottoms out and prevents the lock pawl from moving far enough, tem-
porarily readjust LS2. With the solenoid energized, 1/8" minimum gap must exist between the lock pawl
and the major diameter of the cam. See Figure 11-24 for details. Adjust as required.
LS2 Adjustment
The LS2 switch is typically used to control the touchbar circuit on buses equipped with the touchbar
option. This switch has two separate circuits, one which is normally open and another which is normally
closed; one or both of the switch circuits will be used depending on the options installed on your bus.
Refer to the Gillig Electrical Schematics Manual for your bus for specific information on the LS2 switch
circuits. LS2 MUST be activated with the doors unlocked between the fully unlocked (solenoid ener-
gized position) and the major diameter of the cam. The LS2 switch plunger MUST NOT bottom out; you
should be able to fit a 0.016" feeler gauge between the switch and the lock pawl when the solenoid is
energized. See Figure 11-24 for details. Adjust as required.
Emergency Release Mechanism

Slowly operate the emergency release from its normal position to the fully unlocked position. Check
that the lock pawl DOES NOT bottom out LS2. If necessary, readjust the unlock solenoid as described
above.
468
Body and Interior
LS3 Adjustment
The LS3 switch is used to open the touchbar circuit, allowing the doors to close once the doors have
reached the full open position. Check that LS3 actuates at approximately 80 to 85% of the full open
position. LS3 must not bottom out. Adjust as required. See Figure 11-25.
Door Stops and Cylinder Rod Adjustment

Check that the doorstops do not prevent the doors from opening the full 90°. Check that the cylinder
does not prevent the doors from opening the full 90°. The cylinder piston must not bottom out at ei-
ther the open or closed position. This can be determined by either scribing a line on the cylinder rod or
by removing the rod end bearing from the teeter cam. Manually holding the doors open or closed and
manually extending the cylinder rod will determine the amount or remaining stroke. Adjust the length as
required.
Touchbars
Each touchbar has two switches, top and bottom. Check both touchbars four places, one at a time. The
bottom of the touchbar tubes MUST NOT drag or contact the lower bracket. Repair as required.
Components/Hardware Check
Check that all components are secured with the correct hardware and tightened properly. All jam nuts
must be tight. There should be no excessive play or excessive friction between any moving parts, door
shaft levers and bearings, lower pivot bearings, rod end bearings, cam, lock pawl, cylinder, etc. Repair
as required.
Electrical Wiring Check

Check that wire terminations are properly crimped and secured. All wiring must be properly tie wrapped
and secured away from all moving parts.
MINIMUM 0.016"
1/64" SWITCH OVERTRAVEL
ls3
cAm
469
Body and Interior
Door Speed Adjustments
The door cylinder has integrated speed controls.
Door speeds should be set to allow the doors to
open and close smoothly. Repetitive slamming
may damage the doors.
Closing Speed
Door closing speed can be adjusted using a screw
on the front cap of the door motor (refer to item
7 in Figure 11-22 and the circled area of Figure
11-26). To adjust closing speed, first loosen the
jam nut, then turn the screw. Turning the screw in
slows the closing speed, while turning the screw
out increases closing speed. Tighten the jam nut Figure 11-26, Closing Speed Adjustment Screw
when closing speed is adjusted satisfactorily.
Door Cushioning
To prevent the doors from slamming against the
stops during opening, adjust the cushioning using
the screw on the rear cap of the door motor (refer
to item 6 in Figure 11-22 and the circled area of
Figure 11-27). The cushioning screw can be found
behind the left end of the closing spring. To adjust
cushioning, first loosen the jam nut, then turn the
screw. Turning the screw in increases cushioning,
while turning the screw out provides less cushion-
ing. Tighten the jam nut when cushioning adjust-
ment is complete.
Figure 11-27, Cushioning Adjustment Screw
Opening Speed
The speed at which the doors open is governed by
the door control valve, located on top of the door
motor (refer to item 9 in Figure 11-22 and the
circled area of Figure 11-28). Adjusting this valve
determines the rate of airflow into the door mo-
tor. Turn the valve clockwise to slow the opening
speed; turning the valve counterclockwise makes
the doors open faster.
Figure 11-28, Opening Speed Adjustment Valve
470
Body and Interior
Door Repair
Door Panel Removal
Due to size and weight factors, assistance will be required to remove

and replace door panels. Attempting to handle panels without assistance
could result in personal injury.
1. Remove rubber molding from the bottom of the door panel.
2. With an assistant supporting door panel, unbolt lower and then upper hinge shaft arms.
3. Lift door upward and away from frame.
4. Replace door panel by reversing Steps 1-3 of this procedure.
Door Window Replacement
To prevent personal injury, wear gloves and eye protection when

working with glass.
1. Pop out broken glazing using care to avoid cuts.
2. Replace rubber molding around door panel window frame if necessary. Lubricate rubber molding
along center groove to facilitate movement of the glazing.
3. Slide glazing into position in the center groove of the rubber molding.
4. Insert locking rubber strip in molding groove to lock glazing in place.
5. Seal glazing using grommeted windshield sealer or suitable adhesive. Wipe off excess sealant.
471
Body and Interior
Windows
To help prevent personal injury when handling glass, always wear safety
glasses with side shields to protect the eyes.
Gloves should be worn to protect the hands when removing, installing
or handling glass.
Assistance is required when removing and handling heavy windshields
and windows.
Windshields and windows on all Gillig coaches are made of laminated glass or Lexan plexiglass, both
referred to as glazing. Laminated glass is fabricated of two sheets of glass with plastic inserted between
the panel, and plastic baked onto the outer surfaces. Glazing is available in a variety of tints.
Windshield
Windshields are mounted into the front cap and affixed in place with rubber molding and a rubber seal
strip which expands the molding channel and holds the windshield glazing firmly in place (Figure 11‑29).
Frame
Rubber
Seal Strip
Glazing
Figure 11-29, Windshield Seal
472
Body and Interior
Removal
When removing glazing, care should be taken not to strike the glass edges
on any surfaces. This is especially important if glass is to be reused.
To remove windshield glazing:
1. Remove the locking strip (rubber bead) by prying it loose at one end and peeling it out of the
rubber molding.
2. Have an assistant push out carefully at a bottom corner of the glass from the inside to free glaz-
ing from the rubber molding.
3. Carefully pull the glazing from the rubber molding outward.
Installation
When properly installed, the locking strip should fit with not more than
a 1/64" gap between meeting ends. If ends overlap, remove strip and
reinstall using less tension.
1. Position the rubber molding around the vehicle window frame, if not already in place, and seal
using a grommeted windshield sealer.
2. Liberally lubricate the rubber molding channel (groove) with a rubber gasket or silicone lubricant
to prevent the rubber molding from hanging on the glazing. Set the bottom of the glazing into the
molding.
3. With an assistant holding the glazing in position, work from inside of the coach using a thin
fiberglass or wooden stick and push the outer lip of the molding past the edges of the glazing.
4. Once the glazing is seated in the molding, apply sealant in the molding channel to secure the
glass and prevent water seepage.
5. Lubricate and install the locking strip. To insure proper insertion of the locking strip lip into the
molding groove, it is recommended that a molding tool be used to install the strip.
Insertion with Molding Tool

Insert an end of the locking strip through the molding tool and position the tool and strip so that locking
strip lip is in the molding groove. Feed the locking strip through the tool while pulling the tool forward.
Keep an even tension on the locking strip while pulling. Use your thumb to follow the tool and ensure
that the lip is inserted into the groove.
473
Body and Interior
Manual Insertion
The locking strip can be manually inserted by using a flat blade screwdriver or similar tool. Liberally
lubricate the locking strip lip. Push the flat bladed tool along the molding, turning the blade sideways to
spread the groove open while pushing the strip into the groove with your thumb. When using this meth-
od it is essential to make sure that even tension is applied to the strip and that the locking strip is forced
completely into the molding groove.
Driver’s Side Window

The dual slider window (Figure 11-30) allows the
driver maximum flexibility to signal or conduct other
operations while in the driver’s seat. The windows are
individually framed and enclosed in a one-piece anod-
ized aluminum frame with slide rails fabricated into the
frame. The inner frame around each window has a cen-
ter slot rimmed with brush trim on each side to facilitate
sliding without lubrication. The window unit comes
complete with all required rubber insulation molding
fabricated into the frame.
Latches
The slider window has a latch for opening and closing.
On the dual slider, the latches are positioned toward
the outer frame side of the glazing panel; i.e., on the
right side of the right glazing and on the left side for the
left glazing. Latches are operated by pressing the latch
handle towards the glazing to disengage the latch, then
pushing or pulling the handle in the appropriate direc-
tion to slide the glazing panel.
A latch is removed by unscrewing the two Phillips head
screws which secure the latch to the frame. To replace Figure 11-30, Driver’s Dual Slider
the latch, reposition the latch and screw into place. Window (Typical)
474
Body and Interior
Window Removal
Due to size, weight, and placement factors, assistance will be required

to remove and replace windows. Attempting to handle removal or
replacement without assistance could result in personal injury.
Driver’s Window
The driver’s window is fabricated as a complete unit and requires removal of the entire framing to re-
place a glazing panel.
To remove the window from the coach, remove the torx head screws around the inner and outer frame.
With an assistant lifting up on the window, angle the window slightly to provide clearance from the
coach body, and pull the framed window from the coach frame.
Once removed from the vehicle, the frame should be placed on a padded workbench to avoid scratching
the anodized aluminum frame.
The glazing can then be removed from the frame by cutting through the weld on the right side frame and
removing the bolts which hold the frame together. The frame can be then be spread apart, providing suf-
ficient space to remove the glazing panel. The glazing is replaced by sliding it into the frame and rebolt-
ing the frame to seal the break. If the bolts removed from the frame are to be replaced, the new bolts
must be of equivalent size to prevent interference with the glazing as it slides against the frame.
Replacement of the framed window is accomplished by repositioning the window in the coach frame
and securing it with torx head or equivalent screws.
Fixed Window
Removal of a fixed window is accomplished by removing all torx head screws around the frame, angling
the window slightly, and then lifting the window out of the frame and away from the vehicle. Installation
is done by reversing the removal process.
475
Body and Interior
Emergency Egress Windows
All egress window assemblies should be checked on a regular basis. Maintenance requires inspection,
removal of debris, lubrication of window components, and testing.
Maintenance of Egress Windows
Lack of maintenance can result in increased required force for window

opening operation in the event of an emergency situation.
Contamination and lack of lubrication are the most common and frequent
causes of the release mechanism pull force exceeding a safe level.
Refer to Figure 11-31 while performing the following maintenance procedures.

1. Release Bolts— From outside of the coach, with window open, check release bolts (also called
catch bars) (1-A) for dirt, foreign matter, debris or other contaminant that could restrict the bolt
sliding motion (1). Remove all debris. Ensure release bolt (catch bar) spacer blocks are securely
in place. Spacer blocks should be installed with point or angled side towards inside of main-
frame. The spacer blocks across the bottom also function as a retainer for the release bolts (catch
bars).
2. Wedge Spacer Blocks— With the window open, wipe the egress frame seal with a vinyl cleaner
solution and clear any debris between the frames. Visually inspect and insure the upper most
wedge spacer blocks (3) on each side of the egress unit are secure and cannot slide in the track. If
a wedge spacer block is loose, remove block from channel with a screwdriver (2-A). If a spacer
block is loose, remove it from the channel, clean the area, and reapply a spacer block using Dol-
phin sealant.
3. Cable— Inspect the cable between the egress handle on one end of the cable and the spring on
the opposite end (1). Note where the cable tracks around the corner of the window, and inspect
for any debris or frayed cable. Clean debris away and replace frayed cable.
Use only aerosol white lithium grease. Other lubricants may carry
solvents (chlorine or fluorine compounds) that will damage the integrity
of the release bolts.
4. Lubrication— Lubricate (3) release bolts, the aluminum channel area where release bolts slide,
and cable with white lithium grease. Following lubrication, operate the handle several times to
“wet out” components.
476
Body and Interior
5. Retention Springs— From inside the
A
coach, open the window and visually
inspect the two retention springs (4-A)
for damage. A damaged retention spring
would be misaligned, bent, distorted, or
over compressed. If damaged, replace
components immediately. For proper
retention spring alignment refer to (4-B).
The best adjustment to lower the handle 1
effort to open the window is to move the
retention spring as far as possible towards
the outside of the coach. Retighten screws
to 30-35 in lb.
6. Testing— Open and close each window
and check for smooth operation.
For more information, call your Gillig Service
representative or, depending upon the manufac-
turer of your windows, contact one of the compa-
nies below:
Atwood Mobile Products
LaGrange Operations B
Engineering Department
A
(260) 463-2116 2
Transit Care
345 West H Street
Colton CA 92324
(909) 430-0050
A 3
Figure 11-31, Egress Window Maintenance Procedure
477
Body and Interior
Driver’s Seat
Your bus is equipped with a USSC 9100 driver’s seat. The seat is mounted by bolting it to the floor of
the driver’s compartment. An air line from the vehicle air system is run from under the flooring to the
left of the seat to supply air to the seat air system.
A generic USSC Customer Manual is included in PDF (Acrobat Reader) format on the CD containing
your GILLIG manuals. Refer to this USSC manual for maintenance, troubleshooting, and repair
information. Refer to your Gillig Parts Manual for correct part numbers for your particular seat.
You can obtain the most up-to-date service information about your driver’s seat by contacting USSC:
USSC Group, Inc.
780 Third Avenue
King of Prussia PA 19406
(610) 265-3610
info@usscgroup.com
www.usscgroup.com
Removing Seat From Riser

1. Disconnect the air hose.
2. The seat is connected to the riser by four bolts that run through the slide track and the top base
plate. Remove these four bolts.
Seat Adjustment
Refer to Figure 11-32, below. The following
seat control listing covers the basic fea-
tures of a typical USSC seat. Options
such as heaters and ventilators are
not listed here.
A B
C
A Side bolster adjustor switch. D
B Upper lumbar back support
adjustment switch.
C Lower lumbar back support switch.
D Seat slide adjustment button H
(optional).
E Seat slide adjustment lever.
F Seat height adjustment knob. E G
G Seat tilt adjustment knob.
H Seat back angle adjustment knob.
F
Figure 11-32, USSC Driver’s Seat Adjustments
478
Body and Interior
Passenger Seating
Mounting bolts should be checked and tightened periodically on each seat. Service is not otherwise
required.
Cleaning
Cleaning Fiberglass and Vinyl Seating
To clean fiberglass and vinyl seating use a mild detergent and water solution. A nonabrasive cleaner may
be used to remove heavy dirt. Rinse thoroughly using clear water and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
A solvent or spot cleaner, such as Chlorothene or Carbona, may be used to remove stains caused by ink,
crayon, and some spray paints. Read all container instructions carefully before using any solvent or stain
removing product.
Cleaning Wool and Other Fabric Seating

Normal Cleaning
To clean wool and other fabric seats, beat the pile with a brush and vacuum off the dust, dirt, and grit.
Clean as often as possible. The construction of the cloth allows dust, dirt, and grit to fall to the base of
the pile, therefore presenting clean pile to the passenger. The grit, if not vacuumed out frequently, will
cause excessive abrasion to the pile, which will reduce its service life. Satisfactory cleaning results are
usually achieved by cleaning with a non-water-based foam cleaner, provided that manufacturer’s direc-
tions are carefully adhered to.
Steam Cleaning
Occasional steam cleaning can revitalize woven fabric upholstery. Follow safe operating procedures to
avoid scalding and to avoid damaging seats. See “Caution” below.
Removal of Stains, Liquids and Other Marks
Please do not use the following: soap; washing powder; ammonia;

bleach, and especially soda or any product containing these items.
Serious damage could occur to either the dyestuffs or the wool in the
pile of the fabric. Any product or technique should always be tested on an
inconspicuous area before attempting over all cleaning.
479
Body and Interior
The following two methods of cleaning wool plush are the general methods referred to in the table
below.
Method 1: Apply a non-inflammable solvent (trichloroethylene) with a clean, white, absorbent material,
treating small areas working form the outer edge towards the center of the stain. Blot frequently with a
dry cloth to avoid rings. Open windows and doors to allow fumes to disperse.
Method 2: Sponge the stain with a solution of household detergent and lukewarm water. Do not soak.
Follow this by rubbing with a damp cloth, rinsing cloth between each treatment.
Note: Prompt and correct cleaning will remove most stains. Wrong treatment will only increase the
damage. In cases where there is doubt always seek expert advice. Information is to the best of our
knowledge true and accurate, but all recommendations or suggestions are made without guarantee since
the conditions of use are beyond our control.
Stain Method
Beverage Stain
If stain persists try methylated spirits. 1
Alcoholic Liquids 2
Sponge with water followed by Method 2.
Burns
Scrape blackened area with knife and treat with Method 2. 2
Extensive burns require expert attention.
Cosmetics 1&2
Inks - Writing Inks 2
If brown stain remains treat as for rust.
Blood Stains 2
Urine 2
Vomit 2
Copying Ink - Ballpen Ink
Treat with methylated spirits, blotting frequently to avoid ink 2
spreading. Use Method 2 to complete the treatment.
Marking Ink - Felt-Tipped Pens 2
Treat with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (M.E.K.) followed by Method 2.
Oil, Grease & Paint Marks
Remove surplus substance with a knife or spoon. Should stains 1&2
reappear, repeat cleaning process.
rust
Use Method 2 followed by a warm solution of oxalic acid, 2
complete treatment by sponging with water.
Tar 1&2
Soften with Benzene.
Battery Acid
Saturate with a solution of Sodium Bicarbonate, leave for several
N/A
minutes before drying out. Important for the above treatment to be
carried out immediately to avoid serious damage to the fabric.
Chewing Gum N/A
Soften with Cyclohexanone and scrape off carefully with a knife.
480
Body and Interior
Wheelchair Securement Systems
For the ensured safety of disabled passengers and in compliance with Americans with Disabilities Act
(ADA) standards, the bus is equipped with wheelchair securement systems that secure wheelchairs and
three-wheelers in a designated area of the coach.
The wheelchair securement systems are located in an area made vacant by folding seats. The folding
seats lock into position. The only maintenance required is periodic inspection for damage and security of
the fasteners. See the Driver’s Handbook for wheelchair securement procedures.
Replacements for the retractors and belts used in these systems are available by calling your Gillig Parts
representative. The rear wheelchair restraints have their belts attached to the T-pedestal legs of the flip-
up seats. The forward restraints are mounted on the sliding arm (mounted on the floor) of the restraint
system. Each wheelchair position has four hooks, a lap belt,
and a shoulder harness (see Figure 11-33).
1 Shoulder Belt
2 Flip-up Seat Assembly
3 Stop Request Tape
4 Flip-Up Mechanism Release Lever
5 Lock Pin
6 Slide Arm
7 Front Tie-Down Belts
8 Lap belt
1
9 Wheelchair Restraint Belts
10 Lap Belt Clip
11 Belt Release Handle
11
NiNg
wAr
2
4
3 4
8
9
10
9
7
5
Figure 11-33, Wheelchair Securement Systems
481
Body and Interior
482
Body
Index Alternator
Cable/Fuse Installation 363
Description 355
Drive Belt 116
A Mounting 356
Air Cleaner Removal/Installation 361
Filter Element 94 Schematic 356
Removal/Installation 95 Terminal Connections 355
Restriction Indicator 94 Testing 358, 361
Troubleshooting 93 Anti-Lock Braking System 275, 389
Air Compressor API Oil Categories 60
Governor 205 Asbestos Safety 255
Maintenance 197 Automatic Engine Shutdown 26
Operation 195 Axle, Front
Removal and Installation 199 Description 161
Testing 201 Fastener Torque 14
Troubleshooting 202 Installation 163
Air Conditioning Preventive Maintenance 50
Compressor Drive Belt 117 Troubleshooting 174
Description 423 Axle, Rear
Electrical Connections 426 Alignment 158
Maintenance Schedule 57 Magnetic Drain Plugs 137
Refrigerant Safety 425 Preventive Maintenance 50, 137
Air Dryer Axle Shafts 139
Assembly 248
Disassembly/Inspection 246 B
Maintenance 244 Backup Alarm 394
Removal 246 Balancing, Tire/Wheel 294
Troubleshooting 250 Battery
Air Intake System 93 Capacity Rating 344
Air System Cleaning 337
Air Governor 205 Disconnect Switch 28, 333
Brake Valves 217 Microswitch 334
Check Valves 213 Electrolyte 338
Compressor 195 Equalizer 348
Condenser/Separator 252 Failure 344
Diagram 187 Inspection 336
Door Control 192 Jump Starting 345
Drain Valves 210 Maintenance 331
Lines 215 Removing 334
Operation 185 Replacing 335
Preventive Maintenance 48 Safety 332
Reservoirs 210 Testing 339
Suspension 188 Bearings, Wheel 280
Troubleshooting 250
Alignment Specs 170
483 Index
Belts Coolant
Compressor Drive Belt 117 Changing Procedure 83
Drive Belts 113, 116 Filter 82
Drive Belt Tensioner 116 Flushing 84
Bleeding Specifications 16, 80
Fuel System 73 Cooler
Hydraulic System 318 Hydraulic Fluid 314
Body Transmission Fluid 128
Access Doors 444, 451 Crowfoot Wrench 13
Front Cap 447
Preventive Maintenance 55 D
Repair 452
Skirt Panels 442 Daily Maintenance 42
Brakes Defroster 427
Component Grease 17 Diagnostics, Engine 118
Leak Detection 260 Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) 96
Overhaul 258 Differential
Parking Brake 261 Carrier 138
Parts Identification 257 Oil 16, 17
Preventive Maintenance 49 Diffuser, Exhaust 96
Slack Adjustors 266 Diffuser Pipe 104
Troubleshooting 273 Directional Signals 406
Valves Disconnect Switch, Battery 333
Interlock Solenoid 243 Dolly, Engine 109
Park Brake (Bendix PP-1) 242 Doors
Pedal Valve (Bendix E-12) 217 Adjustment 461, 465
Quick-Release (Bendix QR-1) 235 Control 192
Spring Brake (Bendix SR-1) 237 Front 461
Manual Opening 192
C Manual Release 458
Motors 192
Caution, Definition 19 Operation 458
Charging System Schematic 359 Preventive Maintenance 55
"Check Engine" Lamp 118 Rear 465
Check Valve, Air 213, 214 Repair 471
Check Valve, Fuel 75 Sensitive Edge Strip 460
Clamp, Exhaust 105 Door Struts 451
Cleaning Drag Link 167
Exterior 454 Drain Valves, Air 210
Exterior Lights 455 Drive Axle 137
Interior 456 Drive Belts 113
Undercoating 437 Driveline
Column, Steering 176 Installation/Removal 134
Connectors, Wiring Lubricant Specifications 17
Blade Type 421 Preventive Maintenance 47
Hinge Type 421 Driver's Heater 427
Terminal Type 421 Driver's Seat 478
Weather-Pak 421
Index
484
E F
E-10 Brake Valve 217 Fan
Electrical System Control Unit 302
Battery Equalizer 348 Motor 304
Charging System 355 Fan Motor
Connectors Installation 308
AMP Mate-N-Lok 413 Removal 306
Deutsch 414 Troubleshooting 303
Packard Weather Pack 413 Fast Idle System 65
Main Electrical Panel 388 Filter
Monitor, EM70D 353, 389 Air 94
Multiplexing System 374 Air System 252
Preventive Maintenance 51 Coolant 82
Troubleshooting 358 Engine Oil 63
Voltage Regulator Adjustment 357 Engine Oil (Auxiliary) 66
Engine Fuel 72
Automatic Shutdown 26 Heater Air 427
Changing Oil 62 Hydraulic Fluid 312
Changing Oil Filter 63, 66 Transmission 127
Checking Oil Level 61 Fire Detection System 395
Coolant Specifications 80 Fire Suppression 397
Diagnostic Procedure 118 Flash Codes
Dolly 109 I/O System 384
Fast Idle 65 Flooring 457
Installation 112 Fluorescent Lamps 398
Mounts 111 Flushing Cooling System 84
Oil Filter 63, 66 Fuel
Oil Specifications 60 Bleeding System 73
Preventive Maintenance 45, 46 Contamination 71
Removal 107 Filter 72
Starting 24 Lines 75
Stop Engine Override 26 Particulate Filter Requirements 76
Throttle 65 Priming System 73
Equalizer, Battery Service Warning 75
Description 348 Specifications 76
Replacement 351 Sulfur Content 62
Testing 349 Tank 77
Ethylene Glycol Coolant 80
Exhaust G
Bellows (Tubing) 106
Clamp Installation 105 Governor, Air 205
Diesel Particulate Filter 96
Exhaust Pipe 104
Particulate Filter 76
Preventive Maintenance 46
Exterior Lamps Test Switch 403
485 Index
H K
Harnesses, Electrical 421 King Pins
Hatch, Roof 445 Checking Bushing Wear 164
Hazard Warning System 406 Kneeling Control System 190
Headlights 403, 404
Heater 423 L
Booster Pump 427
Coolant, Auxiliary 435 Ladder Charts, Multiplex 381
Height Control Valve 148 Lamps Test 403
Height, Vehicle 11 Level Control Valve 78
Horns Level Control Valve, Suspension 148
Driving Horn 393 Level Height Adjustment 148
Horn Button 176 License Plate Light 407
Wheelchair Ramp Alarm 394 Lighting Systems
Hose, Braided Teflon 215 Exterior
Hubs, Wheel 281 Headlights 403
Hydraulic System License Plate Light 407
Bleeding 318 Stop Lights 405
Component Location 297 Interior
Cooler 314 Engine Compartment 402
Description 297 Fluorescent 398
Fan Motor Valves 300 Panel Lamps 398
Filter 312 Linear Heat Detector 395
Fluid Reservoir 312 Lines, Air 215
Fluid Specifications 17 Lubrication Points 43
Hose Replacement 324
Pressure Test 315 M
Preventive Maintenance 46 Maintenance
Pump 309 Daily 41
Troubleshooting 326 Preventive 45
Methoxyl Propanol 80
I Mirrors 448
Inspection, Daily 41 Miter Box, Steering 169
Interlock System, Brake 65, 243, 459 Mounts, Engine 111
Intermediate Shaft, Steering 169 Multiplex System 375
Ladder Charts 381
J Modules 375
System Connections 380
J1939 Interface 390 Troubleshooting 381
Jacking Instructions 29
Jack Stands, Using 30 N
Jump Starting 345
Notice, Definition 19
Index
486
O R
Odometer 408 R-12DC Brake Valve 223
Oetiker Constant-Tension Hose Clamps 89 Radiator
Oil Cleaning 91
Differential 16, 17 Hose Clamps 89
Engine Inspection 88
Changing 62 Mounting 87
Checking Level 61 Removal/Installation 88
Filter 63, 66 Ramp, Wheelchair 410
Oil Filter 66 Preventive Maintenance 56
Quality 60 Rear Enclosure Electrical Panel 389
Sampling 61, 124 Rear Run Box 392
Specifications 16 Regulator, Air Pressure 212
Viscosity 61 Relay Valve, Brake Air 223
Oil Filter 63 Reservoir
Overcrank Protection, Starter 371 Air 210
Hydraulic Fluid 312
P Retarder 121
Ride Height Adjustment 148
Paint Matching 453
Parking Brake 242, 261
Particulate Filter 96
S
Passenger Seats 479 Safety Valve 211
Power Steering Schedule, Maintenance 45
Description 320 Seat, Driver's 478
Maintenance 317 Seats, Passenger 479
Pressure Protection Valve 212 Senders
Pressure Relief Valve 78 Oil Pressure 65
Preventive Maintenance 41 Service Bulletins 19
Probalyzer 61, 124 Shock Absorbers
Propylene Glycol Coolant 80 Front Suspension 145
Pump, Heater Booster 427 Rear Suspension 145
Pump, Hydraulic 309 Troubleshooting 147
Skirt Panels 442
Q Slack Adjustors 266
Solenoid, Interlock 243
QR-1 Brake Air Valve 235 Solenoid, Starter 367
Quick-Release Brake Valve 235 Speedometer 408
Spinner II Oil Filter 66
Spool Valve 300
Spring Brake Air Valve 237
Spring Height Adjustment 148
Springs, Air
Disassembly 143
Installation 144
Removal 142
487 Index
SR-1 Spring Brake Valve 237
Starting System
T
Lockout Control 365 Tail (Diffuser) Pipe 104
Solenoid 367 Tail Pipe (Diffuser) 96
Starter Motor 366 Tank, Fuel 77
Lubrication 366, 371 Tanks, Air 210
Overcrank Protection 371 Tensioner, Drive Belt 116
Overheating 365 Test Switch, Exterior Lamps 403
Removal/Installation 371 Throttle Control 65
Troubleshooting 367 Tires
Steering Balancing 294
Column 176 Inspection 290
Component Grease 17 Irregular Wear 295
Gear 322 Maintenance 289
Linkage Matching 291
Fastener Torque 14 Mounting/Demounting 282, 293
Miter Box 169 Rotation 292
System Description 320 Torque Converter 121
Troubleshooting 326 Torque Rods
Wheel 176 Front Suspension 151
Stop Lights 405 Rear Suspension 154
Stop Light Switches 405 Torque Values
Struts, Access Door 451 Axle & Suspension 15
Sulfur Content, Fuel 62 Axle & Suspension Fasteners 14
Supplemental Coolant Additive 81 Coated/Plated Hardware 12
Surge Tank, Coolant 92 Crowfoot Wrench 13
Suspension, Front Towing Instructions 31
Air System Operation 188 Transmission
Description 151 ECU 120
Preventive Maintenance 49 Filter 127
Torque Values 14 Fluid
Troubleshooting 159 Appearance 123
Suspension, Rear Cooler 128
Air System Operation 188 Level Check 124
Description 153 Specifications 16, 122
Preventive Maintenance 49 Installation 131
Removal/Installation 155 Lockup Torque Converter 121
Troubleshooting 159 Preventive Maintenance 47
Switch, Air Pressure 211 Removal 129
Retarder 121
Trip Distance Display 408
Index
488
Troubleshooting Vanner EM70D 353
Air Dryer 250 Vent, Roof 445
Alternator 358 Voltage Regulator 355
Brakes 273 Adjustment 357
Drive Belts 113
Engine 118 W
Engine Air Cleaner 93
Engine Cooling Fan 304 Warning, Definition 19
Fan 303 Warranty Information 37
Front Axle 174 Weight, Vehicle 11
Hydraulic System 326 Welding Precautions 36
Multiplex Electrical System 381 Multiplex Controls 386
Oil Filter, Spinner II 69 Wheel
Shock Absorbers 147 Balancing 294
Steering 326 Inspection 284
Transmission Fluid 123 Maintenance 283
Tubing, Nylon 215 Nut Torque 286
Turn Signals 406 Wheelbase 11
Wheel Bearings
U Adjustment 280
Grease Specifications 17
Underbody Coating 437 Wheelchair Ramp 410
Universal Joints Preventive Maintenance 56
Lubricant Specifications 17 Wheelchair Securement 481
Maintenance 134 Wheel Hubs
Removal/Installation 135 Front 277
Unlocking the Bus 22 Rear 281
Wheels
V Preventive Maintenance 49
Windows
Valve Emergency Egress 476
Air Drain 210 Latches 474
Brake Pedal 217 Replacement 475
Check 213, 214 Windshield 472
Fan Motor Spool Valve 300 Wipers 449
Fuel Check 75 Wiring
Fuel Level Control 78 Connectors 413
Fuel Pressure Relief 78 Harnesses 421
Interlock Solenoid 243 Main Electrical Panel 388
Park Brake 242
Pressure Protection 212
Pressure Safety 211
Quick Release 235
Relay 223
Spring Brake 237
489 Index
GILLIG CORPORATION
25800 Clawiter Road
Hayward CA 94545
Phone: (510) 785-1500
Fax: (510) 785-6819 Printed November 2007

Service Manual: Hampton Roads Transit

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Click here to go to the Table of Contents

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© 2007 Gillig Corporation

Chapter 1– General Information............................. 19

Chapter 2– Preventive Maintenance...................... 41

Chapter 4– Transmission/Driveline/Rear Axle.... 119

Chapter 6– Air System..........................................185

Chapter 7– Brakes & Wheels................................255

Chapter 8– Hydraulic System...............................297

Chapter 10– Heating / Air Conditioning.............. 423

Chapter 11– Body and Interior.............................437

Weights and Measurements

Wheelbase 35' bus 230"

Internal Noise Level

Torque Values—Bolts and Nuts

Fastener Torque Wrench Distance = A

Figure S-2, Crowfoot Wrench Torque Formula

Steering Linkage (Without Anti-Seize)

*Tighten nut to given specification, then continue to tighten until

Front Suspension (Without Anti-Seize)

Upper and Lower Cadmium

Upper Torque Rods to

Wheel Nut Torque Values

Engine Oil 20 qt / 19 L Low to 24 qt / 23 L High

Differential / Rear Axle Oil 22 qt / 20.8 L

80W/90 O76-D SAE J2360 Above –15°F (–26°C)

Petroleum with Semi- 80W/90 O76-P Above –15°F (–26°C)

Synthetic Base Oils SAE J2360

Hydraulic Fluid 14.4 qt / 13.6 L (including reservoir, hydraulic lines, and

A/C Compressor Oil See compressor manufacturer’s recommendations.

Front Wheel Bearing Grease Lithium 12-Hydroxy Stearate, NLGI Grade 1 or 2

Important Safety Information

Appears when an operating or service procedure, if not correctly

Appears when an operating or service procedure, if not strictly observed,

Highlights an operating or service procedure which is essential for

• Do not burn discarded Teflon seals; toxic gases are produced.

Entering the Bus

In Case of Lockout Figure 1-1, Door Air Lever

Starting the Engine

Figure 1-4, “Stop Engine” Indicator Lamp

Do not use the interlock system as a parking brake!

The transmission must be in Neutral and the parking brake must be

If parked on a grade, be sure to curb or block the wheels securely, as

Shutting Down the Engine

Leaving the Bus

• Never get beneath the coach when it is supported only by a jack!

To jack the coach, follow these instructions:

Figure 1-6, Jacking Locations

For the rear, use:

Supporting the coach on jack stands can be extremely dangerous, and

Figure 1-7, Jack Stand Support Locations

• Towing should not be attempted without proper training.

See Figure 1-11 for ground clearance and towing

Figure 1-9, Gillig Fixed Tow Bar for BRT Buses

Figure 1-12, Tow Points and Chaining Front Axle

The driveshaft is very heavy. Be careful when removing it.

U-JOINT DUST SEAL

Figure 1-13, Driveshaft

Figure 1-14, Axle Shaft Removal

Ensure the following precautions are accomplished prior to welding