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The glory of Maharashtra & the weaver's pride, Paithani saris are said to be
hand woven poems in gold and silk.
…Where the Soul’s Aspiration & Artist’s Inspiration flow out into Form Colour
& Texture!
Artisan with careful hand, foot and eye coordination embarks on the journey
of weaving each thread that binds elements of life into one golden fabric. The
process is long, as sometimes only about 2-3” of border gets woven in a day
depending on the complexity of the design. The whole family of the weaver
is involved, sharing varied responsibilities pertaining to the weaving
process... Not only their livelihood but it is their life & mode of self -
expression.
Paithani sarees hold a treasured place in the trousseau of a Maharashtrian
bride. In the ancient times it was considered no less than an ornamental
treasure & was in fact used as currency… Fine Silk from China with real Gold
& Silver yarns were used to weave a Paithani & Romans imported this
golden woven fabric in exchange for gold of equal weight.
With the advent of the British rule & Industrial Revolution, Paithani weaving
industry experienced a setback. To the rescue then came the Peshwas' of
Pune who had a special love for the textile & the rich legacy of Paithani was
saved yet again! Asawali, a motif of flowering vine is credited to the Peshwa
period.
Weaving Process
Despite the craft being centuries old, the Paithani sari is still woven in the
same traditional manner. It is done with the same tapestry technique as
used in the weaving of a Persian rug. Multiple threads of different colours
along with gold and silver threads are woven together to form a fascinating
piece of silk. The weaving process is complex, begins from choosing raw silk
and precious metals to the final product.
At some point in History, , PAITHANIS were done in Muls and Cottons
but somewhere along the line silk took over.
Mulberry silk from Bangalore and Zari from Surat is used for Weaving a
Paithani.
Silk weighs about 500gms & Zari around 250gms.
The Zari used is silver mixed with Copper for strength & then plated Gold
by dipping in gold Water.
Colours of Paithani involve usage of vivid colors, tints and tones which
are unique to its fabric. & the vegetable dyes are specially prepared for
these.
The dying process too is done in-house.
Raw silk bundles are washed - a tedious repetitive process to smooth out
the last bit of wrinkles & twists in the yarn.
Then Dyed, using Natural dyes from vegetables, minerals, plants and
rocks.
Yarn is then transferred to the reels (asari) to separate each thread
before loading to the loom.
Followed by Setting up of the loom which itself is a meticulous job &
requires careful handling as each thread is mounted to bring out the
design, color and details which is then converted into a fabulous fabric.
A full scale drawing of the motif to be used is prepared & set as the base
for weaving to achieve precision n exactness.
Then begins the Weaving, using soft handmade cotton pins wound with
silk of desired colors and zari.
The weavers use the method of interlocking when more than one base
color is used. A particular colour thread is used length-wise and another
colour is used width-wise while weaving, creating a play of colour as light
reflects off it and the saree appears to change its colour giving a
kaleidoscopic effect.
Designs n Motifs
Available in two varieties – Traditional Paithani and Brocade Paithani, this
ancient textile unites entire elements of life in the form of blessings and
protection to the wearer.
Rich and elegant, it adds grace to the one who adorns it with love...
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