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    WSET Sake

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    Floris

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    icra coe aa tas Understanding sake: Explaining style and quality WSET® Level 3 Award in Sake Understanding sake: Explaining style and quality a evel 3 Award in Sake ne Spi aieanen at 38-45 Bervonsey Sst London S234 ‘atjolcore Wine Si Eaton Te 208 -Asgrsrocousa Ne suttinstinion ny bopisaicad erred fomerty ny nae ecraneor manana relly protcaarrn wearing o ay eloreterstasge reeves wos ha pt peso rng ho we pba Acincalague rocoto thatck ie aalabe em te Selby proTocmmc cneoiTs "215,28 2228 90.42 beau S nae 7 oD Lense 38 ages 8.6.7 38 Grane 1.2.3.- Seb Bewenk 38 Grae B14 IN Sam 87 ove 68 Mana Reach bot a eng Stage Bh BE Fer et srr Satey gh ashe were ‘el Rmaroshaya BIL9-7 SETS, 2 oo 4 ta Atom tor. Srp. 3.5.6 6.751 P12. 19, 55 53.67 fo 7 Emap 2.68 cog 65 rae 3 70.28 Peery Mens MWB 5-1 48 ede) #3 tos enls Me coven perune oonserhaeenserc/aty ‘Sop (cece Der 1 opto ote rene et eth frien reve wae oa cine by Cndeapnes it Gea AYO LLUSTRATONS Deana ae ators rocasy CoonCroid Doses Peer oaton gb Corte eal Peeresing by Joe Cast “Tectc t ats 15) ye Natol Resch sat of rewng Pesteinseveesoy Wee Pi & PASCO Plena toundin te UK by eet ESC x Contents Foreword Introduction Section 1: An introduction to Sake 4 What is Sake? 2 An Overview of Sake Production 3 Sake Labelling Terms Section 2: Sake and the Consumer ‘4 The Systematic Approach to Tasting Sake” 5 Storage and Service of Sake 6 Sake and Food Section 3: Factors Affecting the Style and Quality of Sake 7 Rice Cultivation 1 Rice Preparation 9 Preparing Kaji 10 Water and Yeast ‘11 The Fermentation Starter (Shubo/Moto) 12 The Main Fermentation (Moromi) 18 J025 Alcohol and Filtration 14 Finishing 15 Speciality Styles of Sake Section 4: The Final Product anc its Markets 16 Japanese Sake Labels and Kanji ‘7 The Global Sake Industry Maps Glossary of Japanese Words Acknowledgements Index a 46 53 87 6 66 R 6 60. es 4 96 ‘01 102 EEO Il Hit BLEAK, MHELT. MSARBOMM, FRIST Skenichi Ohashi MWERLET, Ale WRER—AEF BGA Y HILT 1 > FEROROA Bridoe c0,.td., ELTAREBRO distribution companyYamajin co.ltd. ERB LTVSACT » BARR ISAAAT CBDSI ye VILONDTHY, REHRRKBORSBIYI—IEBS International Wine Challenge LondondDSake Co-Chairman fu 3 ft, National Research institute ‘of Brewing (NRIB) OSake Expert AssessorT BHU. EI L-TMM OHAEORAGHLTAR MOFIE—L avefiothet, FMSWSETODA Ys FAP LEMLTIA VIMY S SRHCRR EXSi OMT LC PREREEOTHY, RENRMMSRTEARRAS LO FOITA CHELBAET. R#HBERL, RLEAC, AAO RC CHSAAMERAAMRMASS, FL CHB Shir E-BIBATAEEAD ! sulla (Ce) 8 — iG — MW Foreword Hello, everyone. My name is Kenichi Ohashi MW, and I come from Japan — the home of sake. | un the Tokyo-based wine and sake consultancy firm Red Bridge Co. Ltd, and also Yamajin Co, Ltd, a distribution company for alcoholic beverages produced in Japan. Japanese sake is one of the categories | am very deeply involved with, and I currently preside as Sake Co-Chairman of the world's largest sake competition, which forms part of the International Wine Challenge (London}, | am also @ Sake Expert Assessor of the National Research Institute of Brewing (NRIB), and from these different positions | promote Japanese sake on the world stage. Through WSET's wine qualifications, | have learned much about wine from an objective standpoint, As someone who has never left Japan, | studied wine in detall over many years from a Japanese" perspective. However, when aiming to become a Master of Wine, | was told by a friend, who is a Master of Wine, that | should study for the WSET Diploma. In doing so, | discovered new viewpoints at every turn, and learned how to think from a broad-based, global perspective, At the same time, the course enabled me to see Japan's very specific approach ina new light. Now, following careful proofreading by NRIB, WSET has added Japanese sake — our rational beverage ~ to its worldwide educational programme. This marks not only the internationalisation of Japanese sake, but also signifies how WSET is one of the keys to its promotion around the world. From a Japanese perspective too, being able to leam about Japanese sake objectively through this programme has great significance in terms of the international promotion of sake, and therefore this qualification is of great importance. Together with Antony Moss MW and Natsuki Kikuya (a global educator of sake), | myself ‘am an examiner who assesses educators, and | am already a certificate holder, having passed the Level 3 Award in Sake examination. This examination encompasses detailed knowledge of Japanese sake, as well as the practical aspects, and | believe itis a wonderful programme, encourage you wholeheartedly to learn together with us about the Japenese tradition of sake, both from & Jepanese and international perspective! Gu Qhosld uns) (RR 8— Kenichi Ohashi MW Introduction WSET has only been actively involved with the world of sake since 2013. Nevertheless in three years the WSET has been able to gain the support and trust of the global sake ‘community thanks to the passion and drive of our colleagues. However, it takes more than desire to put together a qualification such as the Level 3 Award in Sake. it takes a huge amount of researching, planning and testing, ithas been a thriling ride for our colleagues as they became immersed in the uniquely wonderful world of sake that is now starting to get the global attention it so justly deserves. The result of all this hard work is this new book Understanding sake: Explaining style and quality vinich we are delighted has the support of the National Research Institute of Brewing located in Saljo in Hiroshima Prefecture. This book not only offers & very detailed and comprehensive overview of the ‘techniques used in the production of sake — it also explains how these techniques are combined to produce the Impressive array of different styles that brewers are able to tease out of a humble grain of rice. This desire to explain and get under the skin of a subject so that students can be equipped with understanding as well as knowledge is ‘what lies at the heart of our Level 3 qualifications, We hope that you enjoy reading this book and if you are studying for the Level 3 ‘Award in Sake then | wish you every success in the examination. JO Tan Harris Chief Executive, Wine & Spirit Education Trust i .2 This chapter explains in simple terms what sake is, and the ways in which it What is same? tee oer tontar ‘elcoholic beverages such as beer, wine and spirits. ‘Sake isan alcoholic beverage made trom polished (white) rice. Because rcs is starchy solid, two other ingrecients (water and a typeof mouldy rice called kaj are used ‘together to transform the solid rice ince a sugary liquid. “The fourth Ingredient (yeast) converts those sugars into alcohol using a process callod fermentation, to make an alcoholic beverage we can crink. Belore describing the details of how these Ingredients are used to make sake, tts helpful to Contras: sake wih some other common alcohol ‘beverages. This way It's possible to show why sake {sin a category ofits own, ard therefore cannot ‘accurately be considered es © special kind of beer, vine or spit, HOW SAKE IS DIFFERENT FROM SPIRITS Sake Is @ relatvely strong alcoholic beverage (around '5-I7X aby), but ts alcoholic strength is closer to that cof wine (12-14% aby), rather than to that of spi such '35 wisi, vooks or brandy (around 40% abv}. The reason for this ctference s simple. ‘Aftr the yeast has fermented the eugars into alcohol, splits need to go through an additional production pracass to concentrate that alcohol further. This process Is called distitation, and is typically achieved by heating the fermented alcoholic iquid so the alcoho! selectively boils off, and then cooling the separated icoholc ‘vapour 50 thet it can be collected as a more highty concentrated alcoholic liquid ‘Most of the aromas and flavours are captured wihh the alcohol, but most ofthe water and sclaity i ett behind. Sake is not a sprit because its not cistlled. As such, thas moderate alcoho) (around 15-17% aby, rather than ‘Table 1: A comparison between spirits and sake. ‘siteisiles? Always Never ‘ypiclalcohoiestrenath(%eby) Around AOR aby 15-17 abv ‘Table 2: A comparison between wine and sake. ‘ground 40% abv) and keeps ts delicate acidity ntact ‘This makes sake more similar to wine and beet. However, ke some kinds of wine, certain kinds of ‘snke have a small amount of high strength dstited alcohol added (S86 Chapter 13 Joz0 Alcohol and Fiteation tor more cetais). HOW SAKE IS DIFFERENT FROM WINE: Like wine, sake is a fermented beverage. thes an alcoholic strength thats siniar to wine. However, the use of rice as a ray material, rather than grapes, results In very diferent favours and requires diferent production processes. Grepes contain high levels of acies and distinct aromas and flayours that ae expressed in the final Wine. Black grapes addtlorally contain colour pigments (to make the wine red) and preservative tannins (hat Ve ted wine e dry, mouth-drying texture rather lke black tea). Colour and tannins ere absent in polished white} rice, and there is vey litle acicity and flavour. ‘The production process usually adds litte or none of ‘these, 50 "typical sake is almost colouress, lacks tannins, s only delicately acidic and its favours ere ‘more delicate than those of wine, HOW SAKE IS DIFFERENT FROM REER Like sake, boor is made from starchy, solid, coreat grains butt difers ina number of ways, Comparing beer and sake. the starch-to-sugar ‘conversion uses very cifferent methods: in beer production, whole unpolished grains (usually bariey| ‘are encouraged to start germinating, and ths makes the arains produce substances (called enzymes) that convert their densely stored sterch into fermentable ‘Sugat. This process fs called malting, Once the enzymes are released, the grains are haated to dry thom out. ‘This halts the conversion process and stops the grains ‘growing into cereal ponts, but leaves the chemicals available forthe brewer to use to break starch down, Into fermentable sugar. These grains are called malt. Sako ls made from palisned rica. Its not possisla to ‘make polished rice grains germinate because the part ‘What can te raw material conibute to thofral prequel? Colourfom deck grepos fused) + No colour ‘intense, dst aromas and faxes «Verte avour + Tannis fiom ack grapes, usec) «No anne + high eels of acs Nery te aces Does the faw mista eormainemmenabiesigars? Yer No Is the raw material soli ora nie? gue sais An Overview of Sake Production '*' “scusson othow seks aifers fom “spirits, wine and beer, some of the details of how sake is produced were introduced. This chapter builds on these details to provide 3 full overview of the sake production process, INGREDIENTS OF SAKE ‘Steamed white rce isthe main raw materal for sake. ice isa solid with 2 starchy core that needs water ‘and koj/to convert the sold starch into a sugary fermentoble liquid. Yeast is then needed to ferment the ‘Sugers into alcohol to meke a” alcoholic beverage. ‘STEAMED RICE Rice ls an edible cereal crop, planted in spring, grown over the summer and harvested in auturin, Once harvested, it cen he stored fore few montis inti tis ready to use. Rice is grown across much of Japan, Using flooded rice-pedeles, but can also be farmed in dry fields (as is usual in the USA, for oxampic). Asian rice has two main subspecies groups: long grained (hefca} end short graines Japonica), which ate further subdivided! nto sticky (glutinous) anc non- sticky (non-gltinous| types. Sake brewers only use the orsticky version of short- grained rice. Non sticky short-grained rice has many varieties thet nave been developed for different purposes. Some are high yielding and easy to farm, and are grown In Japan (and ‘elsewhere as table ice (or eating, These high-yielding, ‘0a5y-t0-grow table rice varieties are also suitable for making sake, and in fact alot of good sake Is made from table rice. However some speciel varieties have been developed to be particularly sutable for sake brewing, ‘Typlally, they are harder to farm anc glve lower yields, but sake brewers tke these sake.specific rice varieties for tree main reasons, allot whien make It easier to separate cleanly the starch from the proteins and other undesirable parts ofthe rice grain: + They contain less protein then table rice. + Most of the starch granules le in a welldetined ‘almost pure starch core atthe centre ofthe rice. + They ere targer-grained, and therefore less Ikely to crack when polished. Polishing and Washing Betore being used in sake procuction, ali ice must be processed. The first step Is polishing, which Is done mechanically in large rice-polishing machines. The purpose of polishing sto remove the proteins, isis, ‘vitamins and erinerals that are concentrated in the outer artof the rice gran, leaving ust he starchy cove. After polishing, the amount of rice that remains is referred 10.05 the polishing ratio. This determines the final syle {and category of sake (see the section Polishing Ratio in Chapter 3). Whether table ice or sake-specifc rice Is used, the rice starts off brown and becomes white ony ‘afer polishing. (The white table rice used in cooking Ie polished the same way, but is less highly polished than tice usedin sake brewing.) ‘After polishing the tce grains need to be cleaned to remove any remaining fine rice powder. This powder WASHING, SOAKING AND STEAMING Note that the stoamar is loadad in layors. Ths is exalained in Chapter 8 [UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE ANO QUALITY. must be removed because its made up of tiny ‘fragments of tne bts of nce that the polisher was tying 10 remove, I they remained, they would make the sake less pure, and more rough-textured and acidie. The powder s removed by weshing efter in small containers, lage vats, ora continuous fe poshing machine, depending on the size of tne brewery end type of sake. ‘The amount the rice is polished (and the emount of proteins, ini, vitemins and minerals that remain) affects the style and category ofthe final sake. ‘Sake made from highly polished rice - Sake mace ‘trom more highly polished rica tends to have purer, ‘rultier flavours, and is lighter in body with fower acilty ‘and umami, Sake made from the most highly polished fice can be used to make one of the giné styles of sake {See Chapter 3 Soke Labeking Terms for mora details). ‘Sake made from less highly polished rice - Sako ‘made from less highly polished (coarsely polished) ce tends to have move savoury and less fully favours, with more body, more acidity and more urna. This ts 2 different style, not necessarily lower quality, though the prices tend to be lower. ‘Soaking and Steaming (Once polishing ard washing Is complete, the rice is soaked to aker the amount end dstribution of water ‘within the rice grain, For the purest and most delicate ‘sakes, this has to be done very precisely for Just afew minutes; a stopwatch is uses to perfect the timing, end the rice is soaked in small batches. For other styles, there is less need to be precise and so the soaking can ‘be done for afew naurs n large tanis. Aner soaking, the rice Is steamed. Tractionally this is done in batches of epproximetely one tonne, and lasts about an hour. Large sake brewers have rice steamers that ae larger, faster and can run continuously. The combined process lof soaking and then stgaming has three purposes: Roising the moisture level within the grain ~ Soaking before steaming helps to ensure thatthe sce absorbs enough weter fo be soft and moist on the inside. Steaming (father than boting) means the outside of the ice remains fm, This isthe kteatcstrbution of molsture {or producing tne best Koj, endfor making sure tne rice breaks up curing the ferment atthe ight speed, Changing the starch — The heat changes the structure of te starch so tat the key enzymes sre able to break Itinto fermentable sugers. Without heat, the stare remains n a form that the enzymes cannot break apart Into fermentable sugars. Disinfection ofthe rlee ~ Steaming ls microbes that ‘may bo on the ree and reduces the rsk of undesirable microbes contaminating the fermentation, (Once the rice has been potshed, washed, soaked end steamed, Its reedy to be used to make sake or turned Into Kay. Kost ‘Starch can be thought of asa large molecule made up ‘of ots of sugar molecules all linked together in a chan (MAKING KOat ‘This shows an overview of kali making. Only some ofthe options sre show. This subject Is covered In more detain Chapter 3. Uno te steerer ‘cooing the ice Rice, a starchy cereal grain, needs something ta break Up the staren into sugars, before the sugars can be fermented oy tho yeast and tured into alcohol Chemicals that do this work are knowm as enzymes. An ‘enzyine ise kind of protein that helps chemical reactions to take place without being used up in those chemical teactions, so only small amounts of he ight enzyme ar needed to convort largo amounts of starch into sugar. Fortunately, the natural world is full of sources of ‘enzymes that convert starch to sugar: any living thing that can digest stach has them Staichy cereal grains ‘also have them: they need these enzymes to convert their space-aftcient starch store back into sugar before they can use that sugar to provide anergy to grow into plant While beer uses whole unpolished grains that can ‘be malted to release the enzymes in each grain, sake Is made from polished rice; the bits that could have ‘grown into 3 plant nave been removed, together with ‘ny starch-converting enzymes, Se, instead of malting the grains, a mould which creates starch-converting enzymes is allowed to grow on some of the rice, The ‘mouid is called kof! mould and the mouldy rice is called kay, About a fith to a quarter ofthe rice used in sake brewing is converted into Kaji Th's provides enough fenzymes to convert all the sich into fermentable sugar atthe right spead. The ideal conditions for ‘kojl mould 10 grow ate high hurndity and warm ‘temperatures of between 33°C and 38°C (92-100°F}, Kéjiis therefore made in a special part of the brewery where the temperatute end humiciy cen be managed to speed or slow the growth of tne mould, {AN OVERVIEW OF SAKE PRODUCTION achieving the perfect level of maule-growth far te sive of sake the brewery is making, Making Kei 6j production ters after the rice Is teken out ofthe steamer, There are four steps in kof making: Cooling ~ The partion of stoamed rice that will become: Kj 's cooled to the right tomperature. Inoculation ~ The cooled stenmed rice is transferred to the kejf room and spread out thinly over a table. Kaji ‘moulc spores are sprinkied on ft Initial mould growth —The warm end humid Conditions in the Ke room encourage the spores to ‘row into the mould, The mould spreads and grows overall ofthe grains of steamed rica, The rice Is thoroughly mixed to ensure tat the growth of mould Controlling and stopping the mould growth — The rice is then sometimes transferred to racks and moved to @ ‘cooles, loss rumia location inthe Koy! room. Whetner it Is moved or not, the aim of the brewer Isto control the temperature in order to slow the maul growth so that execily the right amount of mould can be grown on ‘each grain, Ultimately the mould growth is stopped shen the rice is finally moved to the coolest and driest patt of the key room. The whole process takes about two days to complet. ‘The finished Koj looks lke polished rice, but has @ Contvoting and eps nad ‘ron Ths often akes pce Inco les hur aes of roc te tamed ce with melt spas. ita mould ronth nara takes place on lage ates inne wammest ra wast. hai peo the groom, The Systematic Approach to Tasting Sake® T° SE" ‘evel ‘Systematic Approach to Tasting Sake" (SAT) Is a tool that allows you to write a complete and detailed description of a sake {and then use this information to make an evaluation of its quality. Its a structured and methodical ‘approach to tasting and is therefore not an approach that is suitable for every occasion. Nevertheless, practising with the SAT will provide a disciplined and structured template that will remind you to consider all of the important elements of a sake. THE PURPOSE OF THE SAT The SAT Isa teaching eld and assessment tool that was devised by the WSET to be used In conjunction vn its qualifications. it is designed to develop two fundamental sis: the ability to doseribe 2 sake ‘eccurately and the abiity to meke reasonable conclusions based on these descriptions ‘THE FORMAT OF THE SAT ‘Tha frst part of te SAT consists of tnrae sections entitled ‘Appearance’ ‘Nose" anc"Palate. This is the descriptive element of the SAT. Each section has ts ‘own category headings, which appear inthe left-hand column, The righthand column lets the terms that you can select to Gescrbe exch category heading, For example, to describe the ‘Appearance’ of sake you might select ‘clear for the category heading ‘Clary’, ‘pale’ for ‘intensty; and temon’ for ‘Colour: ‘The second part ofhe SAT consists of one section entitled “Conclusions. This Is the evaluative part of the SAT It contains two category heedings: ‘Quality Level and ‘identity’ The right-hand column lists the terms that you can select for each categary heading, For exemple, {you might select ‘good’ in te ‘Quality Level catagory ‘and ‘premium, junmai, yamaha" in tre ‘ident’ cotegory, “The SAT is supported by a second document, the ‘Seke-Leslcon. This appears on the reverse sie of the laminated SAT card, The Sake-Lexicon is alist of descriptive viords covering some suggested aroma ‘and flavour terms that may help you to describe the sake you are tasting. USING THE SAT ‘The SAT is intended for use in many conten, including professional testings and personel records. tis not ‘always appropriate to use the ful SAT. For example, when tasting lots of ginjo sakes In order to select ihe lanes you think ae the best fora restaurant or for s competition medal, you might Just mention the elements where they difler, and avold noting colour unless it deviates trom ‘clear, water white, colourless tis useful to practise using the full SAT to help develop ‘a discipline for systematically considering all aspects of a sake, even i you decide to record only some of them. I your tasting notes are Intended to persuade or entertain, you may wish to acd words and ideas thet are not included hare, Thee might include vores that to your mind capture the ‘personelty’ ofthe sake, or express it using poetic analogies. Nobody can define these kinds of term precisely, or agree when tis appropriate to use them. This makes them Inapproprite for use in an exam, of fora setting where we are tying to describe sake as objectively as possible and calibrate eopl’s palates as closely as possible, This isthe mein reason these fun, but fanciful, terms are never included Inthe SAT For he WSET Lovel3 exam, tne examiner needs you to demonstrate that you can use the ful SAT accurately. There are particular rules that apply inthe exam conte that you must follow i you ave to maximise your mars. These are expiained in the tasting chapter of the ‘Study Gulde that the WSET has produced for the WSET Level 3 Award In Seke. PREPARING FOR TASTING In ofder to taste sake eftactwely, you need to prepare a sultable tasting environment, and you need to prepare yoursett ‘The ideal tasting environment has good natural lighting or judging the appearance of sakes, and is odour free, to avoic interfering with sale sromas. It also. hs sufficient space for you to lay out your lasses, and ‘make your notes. Saittoons should be evallable near where you ave tasting 70 prepare yourselt, ou should nave a clean palate, ‘ree of toothpaste or the lingaring flavours of strong: tasting food. You should also be wellhydrates, because dehydration may couse your nasal aroma receptors to Dacome ory and lose thelr senstivity to aromas. Note ‘that it ls easy to become dehydrated when tasting a large number of sckes, as you wil be losing saliva every time you spit out. When smeling sake, the alcoho! vil also dehyrate your nose. ‘You will need somewnore to record your notes, This could be something as simple es a notebook and pen, oF ‘laptop or mobile phone with suable software installed You wil also nged suitable glassware, wnien should be cdouriess, colourless and tree of ary residues, such 2s detergent or dishwasher sats, or dirt ett from tuncleen glass polishing cloths. Brewers and judges In Japan commonly use a 180 mL (6 USA. c2) opaque \white poreeiain cup with two concentric cobalt blue colour circles on tre bottom, This vessel, called a ikl. choke {tasting cup’ Is goad for determining the clorty, and colour and highighting visual feults, but not very ‘900d fr cisplaying the postive features (especially the aromatic features) that make each sake special Tre ‘sama is tug for re various small drinking cupe widely used to serve sake, The 'SO ols is sutable for evaluating sake. The Irnportent features are the rounded bow (to aid switing the sake to release aromas) and the Inwerd-sloping ‘wat’ (to capture the aromas} Wren pouring your samples, you should ty to ensure {you consistently pour the same volume into each class. We suggest a el. (15 US fl 07) sample, This should bbe suficlent to assess the ‘Appearance’, Nase" and "Palete’ of the sake, but small enough that you are able to swirl tre sample inthe baso of the bow without spilling i. APPEARANCE Clarity ‘Clear sake - Fortis ine there Isa twree-point scale ‘clear — sightly hazy ~ hazy. Meny sakes are charcoal fined to remove al traces of haziness, leeving them perfectly ‘clear! Sake that has not been treated this way may be ‘slighty hazy’ its stl basically ciear, and not fauty, but on close examination tho clay Is not uite perfect. With the exception of deliberately cloudy styles, anything more than this Is likely to indicate fault Ifa sake hes en unusually high amount of suspended particles then It can be deserved as ‘hazy’ This may inaicate a fault, but the precise nature of the faut can normaly onty be determined by assessing the sake on the ‘Nose’ and Palate! Cloudy sake - White al sake must be fitered, some tare mace in a deliberetely coucy style (by fitering coarsely). The soid material's known as ‘lees’ and rigor (cloudy) sakes very widely in the amount of lees ‘olds. When assessing these you should ensure that the lees are evenly a'strbutad in the bottle before pouring, othernise the levels in each glass will vary and will not reflect the true level in the sake. typical level of igor cloudiness, ‘medium lees, is enough te make the liquid opaque, but win It tH flowing easily, Some nigori are made in a lighter style, "ight lees, where there is enough space between the suspended particles to see clearly through the liquid, even where itis deepest in the ass. Others are mace ina thick style, with a paridge-Ike texture, coating the glass like ‘a paste when swirled. These are described as having “thick ines’ ‘THE SYSTEMATIC APPROACH TO TASTING SAKE* Intensity Clear sake — Intensity Is how mucn colour the sake has, The love! of intensity con be assessed by holding the lass at 45° angle ane looking through the liquid trom ‘above to see how far the colour extends fom the core (atthe deepest part of the bow! to the rim (where there Is the shatlowest dep of sake) Most sakes appear colourless right atthe rim when the glass isheld at 45" angie. The exceptions are afew ancient, long-aged sakes, and some thik cloudy sakes. Most clear sakes have atleast a hint of colour observable atthe core, ut some are sutnciently indistinguishable ‘rom wator that thay can be described as ‘water white lWthe sake hes a broad watery rim, but some observable Colour atthe core, t shoud be described as pale’ If there isa distinct, easly observable colour spreading far beyond the core, It should be described as ‘medium, ‘andif this colour reaches almost to the rim, itshould be described as ‘deep Unless the sake Is made in an aged or sweet style, a"medium’ or ‘deep’ colour tansy is usualy @sign of 4 faut, such as poor storage or oxidation, Cloudy sake ~ The lees in cloudy sake should be ‘colourless’ of at most be ‘slightly coloured! Anything ‘more than this stkely to Indicate a faut such as poor storage or becterial spoliage, Colour ‘Clear sake — Colour isthe balance of evels of green, yellow or brown found in a sake, and Is independent of the level of intensity. The composition of the sake atthe rim s the same as UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY the composition a the core, so the colour does not change when looking through slfferent parts of the sake ina tlted glass. However, because the depth of liquid changes, the Intensity of the colour changes Most saios appear very pala, almost colourless at the fim, 60 the colour ¢ Best|udged where there is suffciant depth of liquid forthe colour to be easly assessed: at the core, Wher clear sake is freshly pressed, it has @ slighty ‘Temon-graen’ colour (ike ole oll, This colour may be removed by charcoal fning, or may be natural so pale thatthe sake is ‘elourlass: As sake is sore or aged, ‘eyger, amino acids and sugars react with each other to produce brown-coloured compounds. These can also be: ‘aided by contact with wood (such as Japenese cedar or ‘cak). At an early stage, these are Dalancec by the sake's ‘natural green hint, and so the colour becomes frst “Femon’(yelion), then ‘gol (yeliow with e sight hint of ‘orange or brown). As the brown comporients dominate, ‘the colour becomes ‘amber’ then fully brown’, With the ‘exception of sweet or aged styles, ‘gold ‘amber or "brown’ colours are usualy a siga ofa fall uch as pot storage conkitions, oxidation, or contamination wth ron, even when the intent i ‘pale, Cloudy sake ~ The lees in cloudy sake should be ‘pure white, or at moet, should nave a cignly creamy whiteness ‘off-white: Anything mare than this Is Rely to indicate @ feult, such as poor storage ilesding tothe: colour turning yellow’ then "brewn) or unciesiabie microbiological acthity (which can make the lees tun {an unappetisin “grey), of both Note that although certain colours ere more frequently found at certaln ves of intnsity brows usually deep, whereas lemon-green’ Is usualy pal}, itis possible to encounter all permutations of intensity and colour Thus ‘dees lemon’ difers from ‘medium gold’ both In the intensity of colour and where ites on the ‘green to brown spectrum, Other Observations There are a few other observations thet can be made about te appearance of sake. Wher served in a suitable glass, all sakes show "legsitears (streams of liquid that adhere to te side of the glass after the liquid has been suited) Sakes that tre sweeter oF higher in alcohol are more viscous and have thicker, moce persistent legs. Some sakes show a sight cerbon dioxide “tiny bubbles’ (retilonce). This can be evidence of s faut, such as refermentation in the bet, or otrer microbial ‘activity. "Tiny bubbes' can also be a sign of particularly ‘careful handing, especially in unpasteunsed sakes, ‘whore the ‘tiny Bubbles’ contribute tothe Impression ‘of iveliness and freshness. Bubbles are important to sparkling sakes. There are ‘a number of factors, n particular the cleanliness of tre lass, tat can attect how the bubbles appear inthe lass and therefore thelr appearance cannot reliably Indicate anything about the cuality of @ sparkling sake. ‘which can be more etably judged by the ‘Nose and ‘Palate’ “There Is @ specialty style of sake that has redipink ‘inte’ lachieved by the use of particular ice, Kos, yeast stains or the use of ash), This s not mentioned as 6 notmel colour for sake because is a unique and deliberate style, Nose Alarge part ofthe pleasure to be gained from tasting sake comes from the aromas, end the cifferences in character and complexity of the aromas account for ‘much of the aterence between basic qualty and very igh-quaity sakes. You should swirl the liquid to release the eromas Into the glass. Then. place your nose near the rim of the glass and take @ short sniff, ting the ‘condition’ ‘intensity’ and general ‘aroma characteristics’ of the aromas you tine, Seme aromas are very delicate, ane you may gain some insight into the seke by taking (Quick sniff before swing Condition Ifthe eake looks in good condition k may stil show a fault thet reveals itself on the nose, With practice, you should be able to detect the most common sake faults Most sake Is brewec! by peopie with considerabio ‘experience and technical expertise, and the brewing recess can be contrlied vary tightly. For these reasons faults due to defective production ere ‘very rare in commercial sokes, though some minor errors may express themsalves 2s slight, tolerable Impertections. Much more common, especially because of the deilcacy ofthe product, are problems due to poor storage, which can include too much icht. 00 much heat, or being open for too long. ‘Opan toe long (oxidation) - A bottle tnat nas been ‘pen too long loses its fresh aromas and after a few dys starts to gain stale aromas, such as caramel and toffee, as well as deepening in colour ‘Out of concition (Hine-ka) —A sake thats t00 od, oF that has been stored in bac concitions (especially at inappropriately high temperatures) loses its freshness, ‘and tastes cull ane stale. Ginjo sakes lose thelr delicate ‘tesh truttyMoral aromas, end sekes in general gala ‘oft-aromas of oxidation (nints of caramel or toffee). After sic months to one yeer in the merket, unpleasent sulfur compaunds can develop, reminiscent of pickled vegetables and some of ine smeiis more normally associated with microbial spoilage (see below For sake stored for many years, these unpleasant sulfur eromas can eventusly develop inta mellow ‘caramelike aromas — but aitrough this development [UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY. + Junmot gry and janmar coiginjs ~ Siniter to gind and digi, but liely to be more Intense and less aly t0 have such a short clean trish. + Junmo!~ Rich, rce-derived favours are genereliy desirable, as are high levels of umami. Ginfo-lhke frutiness is generally undesirable + Honjo - Simiar to jun, but more likely to be lighter in exure, wth less iment of favour. AS with gin and dolginjo, be especially alertto a clean, cutting kire finish While is good to take these into account, tis wise fo avoid falling into the trap of Judging against a emplate’, Not al gino sakes should have strong gino atomac, for example, 50 take other factors such as how fine textured the sake Is before clsmissing a very subtle {gingo sake as merely acceptable" or 'poor ‘A’good' sake has an appropraie balance of Integrated alconol, acid and sugar It fee of faults, ‘nd shows some cheractetiaties of ts category (pethans typical aromas or typical levels of structural Components} Ita sakes. litle out of balance, clure in favour or hes @ genaiic cnaracior that ras to express any particular category, buts otherwise enjoyably drinkable, then tis ‘acceptable. the poor balance, ‘any minor foults oF any dominant flavours of Components make Tt unpleasant, then itis ‘poor’ any faults make the sake unsuitable to drink, then Its simply faulty, ‘A very good! seke displays particularly clear expression of category. I may also show some elements of elegance, concentration/delicacy, pury/complexity lr an especialy clean or long complex trish that itt ut of being meray ‘good’. An ‘outetanding’ sake should be elnost entirely tree ofeicism. It should precisely represent a classic category, be elegenty balanced anki well crafted, and may acditonelly express ‘haractorstcs of ts regional origin or raw materia Storage and Service of Sake ‘THE STORAGE OF SAKE Seke is easly damaged ift is exposed to heet or strong light The folowing points should be considered when storing saK0 Keep it coo! — Ever for short ‘erm storage, sake should be kept cool (below 12°C, 54'F) and ideally refigerated (below 8°, 48°F). Refrigeration is especially important for nama-2ake and for protecting the delicate freshness of ging sexes. Drink it young ~ Mast saies are Intended to be ‘consumed within about a year after their shipment from the brewery. Mast namo-zokes fase ther freshnoss in a ‘ew months. Ginjo sakes generally have 8 shorter shelf Ate than honjazs and junmar sakes and most should be consumed wihhin about ten months. Store the bottle upright ~ Soke bottles are best stored Upright, to evoid contact between the liquid and the Gosure, which Is usually ether @ folHined stopper or @ metal screwcap. ‘Avoid bright light ~ Keep sake avay from strong sunshine and bright artical ight. As weil as heating the sake, ight can induce exidation reactions that cause ito become old ana stale Before ns time, Any type of ight could harm the sake, The emino ecids end viternins in sake degrade on exposure to light, causing the sake to dlcolour and te acquire unpiessant aromas ang biter flavours. In terms of blocking eut ultraviolet rays, the most effective are brown-coloured bottles, followed by green bottles, both of which are much more effective than transparent botles. Green or transparent bottles packaged In boxes or wrapped in pape should be stored in their protective cuter peckaging. (Once opened, a sake otto should be sealed and stored in a refrigerstor. Open botties of sake generally last two weeks. anc sometimes even longer, The more delicate ginj6 styles remain fresh for about one week after opening. ‘Storing Nama-zake Noma-rake deterlorates especially capicly and shout 'be refrigerated at no more than 5-8°C (47-48°F), Most ‘name zake should be consumed within six months. However, thete are some exceptions. Soring nama- ole for long peslods resus in a pungent aroma similar In order to get the best out of any sake, itis important thet they are stored correctly and served at the correct temperature, 5 Ate ctsa Tobie concer ce aed bys roenonisto no ae age ect to the smelt of hazelnuts, malt and bacon owing to the action of the enzymes from the kof. This is called the ‘nama-nine faut. However there is a small communty ‘amang sake fans who consider there to be such a thing a5 ‘good ame-fine’ they often call 8 namafuku* ‘meaning ‘matured name’) with welLbalanced oxidative ‘characteristics, coveloped textures and rch favours, ‘These nama-zake are delberately designes by brewers to mature, end need to be handled by experienced restaurantfoar staff and served at the best moment of maturity. ‘SERVICE OF SAKE Sake Faults wen serving sake, you should check that tne sake ‘ree from fauts. The most common faults are caused by bed storage, There are four main fauits to look out for. ‘Open too long (oxidation) ~ A bottle that has been ‘9pen toc long loses its esh eromas and after afew days starts to gain stale aromas, as well as deezening incolou, ut of condition (Hine ka) — A botte that is to0 old, or thathas been stored attoa high a temperature is also ley to have lost ts fresh aromas. Out of condition sake develops stinky aromas of pickled vagetables. Nama-zake that has net been refrigerated properly (Nama-hine-ka) - Enzymes in name-zakes create 2 Asem fae gases UNDERSTANDING SAKE EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY aromas of malt and mest. Where they have contaminsted the sake, alcoholtolerant lactic acid bacteria can create extremely unpleasant fevours. Light damage ~ Sako that has nct heen protected from light can develop stinky aromas rather ke burnt har In [kata few cays of exposure to daylight or ati laht. Microbial spoilage — if microbial spoilage occurs during ‘ake brewing, i wil result in unpleesant-smeling sulfur compounds, with a wide range of possible aromas, Including retting vegatables, compost, curcled mil, stinky cheese end even sticking plesters Serving Sake ‘Sake can be setved ftom the bottle, but t's also Common to decartit into a small sake carate (folder) Most sake bottles are closed with a stopper, or a screweap. Both of these are easy to remove. I'you ‘wish to serve sake In an authentic Japanese way, you may consider the following points Pouring etiquette — In Japan pouring etiquette Is rather specif. Ty to pour sake with both hands by helsing the neck as much as you can, Using both hands shows the mast respect and care fo the other person. Pour for others — The main resson why the sake cups ‘re made so smalls that by pouring each other's sake cups, people will look after each other when sharing sake. Pouring the other person's glesses hes a very Important meaning in Japanese culture. However, let the customers or gusts serve sake by themselves it they insist. Sake Service Temperatures As a lasting effect ofthe sudcen growth in popularity of ‘info sakes inthe late 1980s and 1990s, some people stl Consider hot sake as bad seke} and that te only ‘good sake’ is @ chilled aromatic gijd sake. But tis a part of the unique and appeeting culture of seke that can be enjoyably served at a wider range of temperatures than any other ernks. Warm/sor sake matehes well wth ‘Table 6: Recommended service temperatures for different styles of sake. Futs-sh,janmal, hon Yes ings se ‘Sparking ke Yes ech, sweet and nigel sakes Yes es Personal petarence Ne No Ne ‘hese sakes are geno es: srved ight cried, but some can be served warn. RICE CULTIVATION 2» 1,2: Growing Seedtings (March to May) Befoe sowing the ce seeds hat have been save ar stored fom the privous yeu, growers must Selec seeds of a stable qully The selected seeds are washed to remove dl and turgl For wet rcocutvaton, tha seeds aw not pars ines svaght ancy. Tey ate fs eum in contaers noting Hertiees so, crtng eal mate’ of eedings that can belated later. They ate gronn ina protected aren such ac a greenhouse uni ‘hey are 15-20 cm ona Then they ae wanspated into a le addy, ear. the farmers prepare the ice pace, an cause disease Tey ave ten soaked in vterto encourage germination 3: Transplanting Seedlings into the Field (late April to mice June) ‘rarspantng i usualy done mechanical by asm sxdming ‘acter at plants tne seedings in vary space straight rows. TS eps encourage eve growth and makes weeting when needed) ‘asea5/ a8 aossbl. If the fd are cverronced they cul ‘nore ce grins but each ice ran would be sates, ad ifthe ‘lets are to widely spaced, tho ice quay arc owt ce become incontet, Te trarspanting season vores depending onthe ric variety ad tegora dinates. Fr mos lan, he panting out generally occurs eahiet (eat meh My) nthe cooler not ‘8 regions and tor (ey tn mde) nthe warmer euth-nest regione ocd sunny weather ater tanspiamting is ecsrtal to erate sttong, heathy ie plans Normal farmer lead the eld wih wae up to tnee-quarirs ofthe ngth of the seeng, and reat twee herbedeto protect here pants rom heving to compete 4: Draining and Re-fleoding the Paddy (late June to late September) Throughout he grlng season the paddies wil be regulary drained and relloded. Thee ae a numberof reasons fo ths oe, vegetation tats submerged wehout oeygon ceaos poisonous acids and gases ast ts. Theta zrupt tha heathy rout of the ce sans Diyng the fees oes he rating vegetation access o oyger enabling to decompose away that elas prewde nents fr thee plant. These ution soaino the sla ne fe iz ertnad ‘iso te drier pariaos encourage te ce pans te Gro as reuied, During he cry periods ‘erica rovth sows. an the plants put more energy inte createg ange gains Furthermore the ice plants cevelop sronger rot syste so that they are beter able to support ierseves as the grins pen irae padey remain const [UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY + are ree of volcanic ash, which ean disrupt rice growing. In order to maintain their soil farmers need to work it before the seeclings are transplanted: In the spring the Sols broken up nto fine particles ane! mixec ‘thoroughy wth the water. The resurtng stuaige notes ‘water woll anc allows the padey to be floaded. Water slowly dains enay and cen be replaced vis inigetion ‘channels, The advantage of flooding the felds is that itis very difficult for weeds to grow; seeds sink and ‘cannot access the oxygen and ight they need to grow. Topping-up the lavel of nuttlents in the gals the ‘thar koy concarn of te farmer. Tha most important ‘components of fertifsers (ether orgenic or synthetic) Used in the cultvation of sake-specific rice are nitrogen compounds. Rice needs very high levels of nitrogen to ‘grow successfully and develop large grains ith iaige shinpaku. The other nutrient tat s very Important in ‘the formation of a large shinpaku is caleium. The level of nitrogen needed means that sake: specific rice can rerely be grown without the use of {ertllsers Fertiliser ts generally added three times: \when the seeds are sown, wien they are planted out, ‘and whian the plant begins fo arow repialy before tne ‘ears of grain appear Farmers do use organic fertlisers ether from manure ‘or composted parts of the rice plant. However, scke- specific rice Is erely grown organically. The rice plants ‘demand for nitrogen Isso high, synthetic, nltrogen-rien ‘ertlisers are nearly aays used. ‘deal Weather Conditions for Sake-specitic Rice Between transplanting the seedlings and the ‘appearance of the ears the farmers want Sunny and ‘warm weather. The kseal daytime temperature Is about 22°C (727), wit high levels of sunlight and ceo! nights During the npening stage between the appearance of the ears end harvesting, the farmers continue to need warm daytime temperatures {about 20-25°C, {68-77 with long hows of sunstine, There should be 8 marked cooling during the right ane ideally nighttime temperatures should be about 96°C (50°F) cooler than the days, At this time high winds present a significant Fisk. Windy weather during flowering can disrupt {ertitsation, eacing to fewer grains. High wines, ‘especially typhoons, later the season can camage the rice plants Ifthe temperature s too cool during Fisening, the starch molecules inthe rice grain become very branched, rather than straight, end therefore Increasingly glutinous. This leads to the rice being less favourable for sake production see section Starch in ‘this chapton. the weather stays too hot duting ripening, or ifthe nights are too warm, orif there isa lack of sunlight, then the rice grains struggle to ripen. They will therefore contain proportionally more protein andi are more prone to cracking. Clmate change means this s increasingly a protien. ASSESSING AND GRADING THE QUALITY OF ‘SAKE RICE ‘The most common way for brewers to source cas for them to buy It trom local (prefectural) sake brewers’ associations, who In tur buy rica trom egricuturat co-operatives, who In turn buy from the individual farmers. These transactions require standardised measures of quailty. ually grades are deftned by the Japanese ‘government, anc government-empioyed Inspectors ‘grade rice betore sale, Premium sake (tokutey mend ‘shu) must, by law, be mace from rice thet has passed Inspection. Uninspected and ungraded rice can be used for sake, but only for non-premium sake (ts ‘u), Listed wit the hignest quailty grade fist, he ‘quality grades aro: ‘Above special (okujo) + Special (toku) + Fist Grace + Second Grade + Thira Grade, The frst two of thase are only used for afading rice destined for sake, The other graces epoly io both sake tice end table rice. There ete rice grades below the Third Grade, but these cannot be used for premium ‘ake. The offical government quaity clessifeation Is ‘based on te following erteria: + malsture content too much risks rot, and too tie Increases the Iketihood of cracking during polishing) + the percentage that are broken, cracked o- under ripened (tre smaller vie percentage the better) Grain size is also important larger is better but this is not included inthe erteria of rice qualty grading, Unsurpiisingly, the price of sake-specific ice depends on the quality, and varies depending on the availabilty and demand each season. Sake-specitc rice coats more than table rice. Yamade-nishik! costs more ‘than most other varieties, and the best yamaco-nishiki ‘can cost more than three times as much as standard sake-specific ce Rice Preparation Rice goes through 8 four-stage process to prepare it for brewing. The brewer starts with hard and dry brown rice and ends up with white steamed rice. The choices that are made throughout these four stages can have a significant impact on the style of sake that can be made from the steamed rice. ‘THE AIMS OF THE BREWER Rice nas the great advantage that can be stored for Wook or even months without rating or severely degrading, as jong es it has keen etied to a moisture level o"15 per cent. This means thet the stored rice can be steaclly processed in small Gatches, day by cay, ‘throughout the brewing season. Howaver, rice has the lsagvantage that its energy is stored as cols starch, rather than fermentable sugar. In orcer to make this starch availabe, the rice needs to.90 through four processes: polishing, was soaking ans steaming, Thete processes help the brower in other ways too, Altogether there are three things the brewer is looking to achieve during rice preparation. + Recuce the levels of proteins, isis, vitamins and minerals in the rice grain (when their levels are too high, these lead to faster fermentations and add flavour, texture anc acicty to tne sake, when Ins 6 rot usualy desired). + Adjust the amount and distribution of moisture within the rice grain helping Koff mould to penetrate to the Ccenive and helping the grains to break up rnore ‘easily during fermentation). + Gelatinise the starch so thet the key mould enzymes ‘can break the starch into suger. PREPARING THE RICE Each ofthe incividual procasses Used to propare the tice (polishing, washing, soaking and stearning) need to be considered as one part of wider set of choices a brewer maces in order to achieve the desired siyies of sake, For examole, fa robust and flavoursome style of ‘sake fs sought, then fester ferments at higher temperatures ani higher levels of ko! activity may be desirable, Rice sultable for ris style of sake coos ‘at need to be so highly polished, and the water absorption rete does not need to be so limited or precise. On the other hand, ifthe producer seeks to ‘make a delicate, Ighttextured deigino, hen merely polishing the ice ta the required dogree i not sufficient. Careless washing, or excessive, or uneven soeking or steaming, could lead to high levels of ko enzyme, koj favours, ard the rice breaking up too quickly all of which will rsutt n @ fermentation that 100 fast to create a doiginjé-stve sake. Polishing When the rice is ready o be used to make sake, he Stored rice is polished. Rice polishing Is one ofthe ‘erttera in the gracing system of premium sake. The maximum ree polishing ratios seimai-bua) are detined ‘for most grades. Although the main component of Fice grains is starch, the bran and outer layers of the’ ‘endosperm contain proteins, isds.vitains and minerals, All these nurtents are important forthe ‘growth of ko and yasst. However, an overabundance ‘accelerates the kof propagation and the fermentation. High levels of sugar and very active, warm fermentations would make It very dificult to achieve the procise anc elegart flavours that need a relatively long anc coo! fermentation in order to davelop. Rice proteins are aco one source of the umami taste of ‘sake, but too much rice protein resus in rough and heavy textures, ‘The rice is polished mechanically using & high-speed ‘tating roller This process has to be done slowly anct ‘genty, otherwise the rice grains ery aut and become ‘racked due to the heat and friction from polishing ‘Some rice varieties, such as yamado-nishik, are particularly good at surviving long periods of polishing \waitnout cracking or completely crumaling. Before the widespread adoption of mechenica rice polishing inthe frst half ofthe twentieth century the polishing process was done by hand or by water mil, limiting the favel to which rice could be polished gino fovels below 60 por cont soimar-buai ware impossible “The frst girjo-style sakes became possible when the ‘modem veitical ice-polishing machine was develoed ‘round 1930, but these were inkially limites 10 Competition sakes. Ittook until the 1980s before this technology (end the required brewing techniques) were widespread enough to suppot the ‘ginid boom 2s this new style became popular ‘The structure ofa vertical rce-polishing machine is rather simple, From the rce tank on the top, brown (unpolished) rice Is dropped into the polishing column. ‘This normally consists of vertical barel with an abrasive rock grinding rater (whetstone) inside. Usually tho polishing has 1wo cifferent stages. Inia, @ coarse ‘ringing roler repidy removes the bran and outer grain of rice. Later. it switches to 8 finertextured grinding rollec with a slower speed for the later stage when the rice gets smaller and more senskive to the shock of friction. Ahough its an automated process, the exact timing of when to switch the roller layers and polishing speed tends to be changed depending on the characteristics of the nce variety. Below the polishing [UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE ANO QUALITY reroute ‘eamoetoe-pting miners ge ewan Tea ahi tte place inte ‘cone supe satire, ‘ce ing sore noe agean boson en te Fahl age Cran er song ire poh rate, ‘Tellecaioect te too ot pte trametesicurer semucodb te. 70%. ‘column, on the bottom of machine, there is 8 sereen to relain the ree powder that has been removed (which Is called nukat. The rice gteins go back tothe too tank bya bucket conveyer to travel through the polishing tube repeatedly unt the rice Is polished to the ratio, that has beon decided. To polish 600 kg brown rice, Ietokes: + roughly 10 hours to weach 70 per cent seimoi-buci (hanjoz0 level) + roughly 45 hours to reach 50 per cent seima-buar (faiginjo level) + Increesingly longer to reach each further 10 per cent When the target seimai-bua! is achieved, the rice Is rested to allow tto cool down and reascorb some of ‘the moistute lost duting polishing, This reduces the ‘isk of eracks appearing on the rice caused by an Immediate temperature change when i ater washed In cols water, Dapencing on the cimate, it can take between three to four weeks forthe polished rice to first coo! and thes ebsors the correct amount of moisture 60% 50% 35% washing ‘After the rce has finished resting, it's washed to remove any remaining nuko. which Is made Up of undesirable components thatthe producer has attempted to remove by polishing, The Ideal is to remove all ofthe dust without allowing the rice to reabsorb too much water, and forthe water that is absorbed to be absorbed eveniy by al ofthe grains. Hand-weshing in small batches is the traditionel way {and ls stl carrled eut for premium sakes. However, recant improvements made to rice-weshing machines have made it possible to wash rice as perfecty anc thoroughly as the hand-washing method. These nev ‘machines blow fie air bubiies through the water replicating hand stiring, which brings ail re rice in contact with the water and gets the dusts off the rice. For mass production, especialy for futsd-shu, brewers tuse large scale washing tanks Soaking ‘After washing the rice Is soaked to increase its water content to the optimal level before steaming. The overall moisture love! is typically raised to around 30-35 per cent, but varies depending on the type of rice and the polishing rato, and whether the rice will bbe uses for kof Ititis soaked for too long, tne outside ofthe grains ‘absorb too much water. There are two reasons why this is not goed for sake quality. First, ifthe rice Is destined to become koji the mould will grow too quickly without producing the appropriate lave's of jv enzymes. Second, # over-moist rice Is usedin the fermentation, it breaks up too quickly during the fermentation, This results in the yeast having access to high levels of sugar, causing them to ferment t20 quickly and the required tlavours ae not develop. This would be s particular problem for ginjé and daigini@ styles of sake, Many foctors affect the ides! rlee soaking tine: + The more tne nice Is polished, tne less time it t2kos to absorb the water, + Colder water is absorbed by the rice more slowly Water temperatures typically range from 8°C to 15°C + The brewer must consider the initial anc tne target mmolsture level, of the rice. “Those factors can vary day by day, baton by batch. Therefore the lgeal ime for washing and soaking rice has to be estimated |there is ro rigerous formula}. The brewer stars witha few tral betches, experimenting ‘with adjustments, visually checking the rice and ‘measuring the water absorbed each time untl the target water-absorption s echieved. Fice thet is less polished (to 70 per cent seimalbusy for exam}, stars off wth more moisture, absorbs ‘water more stowy, anc the rate of water absorption RICE PREPARATION slows with time. After a couple of Nours, when the level of absorption reaches about 20 per cert, hardly any ‘mote water is absorbed. This isthe ideal moisture level belare steaming Because ofthis, sake mace trom less polished rice does not need to be precisely managed during the soaking stage, and therefore the rice ean even be [eit overnight to soak in large batches. However, more highly polished rice polished to 50 per cent se!mal.ua, or example) Is drier and more oreus and therefore absorbs water more quicy f lett to soak, itwil continue to absor® water far beyond the ideal ratio of about 30 per cent. Additionally, the inj styles of sake made fiom highly polished rice tend to require greater precision in tne exact levels and distribution of moisture. This applies equally to both steamed rice and the ice that's destined te become eo}. Tris ls covered in more detall in Chapter 9 Preparing Koj! and Chapter 12 The Main Fermentation iMoroms, ‘As wells running reguier tials, brewers uses ‘number of techniques that allow them to be as accurate 235 possible and to achieve the correct moisture lovols, The techniques include: + soaking the rice in very smal batches + using cold water to siow down absorption + tming the sealing using 2 stopwaten, [After soaking, the rice must be drained completely, anc! is usualy ef to rest for several haurs or overnight botore steaming. Soaked rice is more fragile than unsoaked rice because of the Increased moisture level In the grains. Therefore, soaked rice needs to be handled caretulty and tis typically steamed less than 24 hours after soaking has finished, « Ls tad asin: conan beng hee oribe cee eer 2A doseupsholog ‘tah ene tainers. [UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE ANO QUALITY Steaming ‘Steaming has two purposes: it sterllses the rce anc. more importantly, alters the structure of the starch molecules, s2e cection Starch in Chapter 7 Rice Cultivation. 1 also has the etfect of turner Increasing the moisture level from the 30 per cent added during soaking to around 40 per cent Rice steaming Is typcally the frst task ofthe brewing dy, Some large brewers use continuous steamers, Dut iaditional rice steamers that can only process one batch at a time are widespread. When using tractional steamer, the ice has to be wall rained. tis placed in he steamer either the Fight before or the meming ofthe steaming. Staaming 2700 ka batch of rice takes about 40-60 minutes. The rice fs loaded into the steamer in layers separated with cloths, This makes it easier to ad and Unload the steamer quickly but taiso allows the brewer to separate easily the batches that are for different destinations (eg. the kOi/ room and cliferent starter and ‘main fermentation tanks) after they have been stearned together The aim is forthe grains to be evenly cooked and all 10 be frm on the outside end soft on the inside but the level of moisture that is required depends on what the fice wil be used for afer steaming Rice that destined to be uses ino) production requires a lower level of moisture compered with rice thot wil be added to either the starter or the main fermentation. The lowest moisture level in a steamer 's found in the top layer of ree, which s the furthest ‘rom the steam inlets. Therefore rice in this top layer Is always uses for key production, As a further means of controling the moisture level of this top layer of rice, a thick cloths piaced over to prevent the water condensation from surfaces above dripping back onto the lee and making twat “The rice from the layars below is edded to a fermentation starter or a main fermentation, The highest moisture levels are found at the bottom of the steamer, but sometimes these levels can be too high This is 2 particular problem ifhighly polshed nice is being prepared fora gino sive of sake, Therefor, in order to counter this probiem, some brewers lay £095 of foke rice, made from polypropylene, on the botior lof the steamer i order to raise the rice away trom the steam inlets. This prevents the rice on the bottom layer from becoming too moist. Some brewers have adopted « technique of using 4 special ester to blow dry Hot steam Just before finishing the steaming process. The pressure heater Feduces the quantity of water droplets caried in the steam, and means that the steam can add mote heat and leaves less water on the outside of te rice, to make Itfim on the outside anc soft on the insice When brewing on a larger scale, continuous steamers are usually used, The most common type consists of corveyor, with an inlet for rice at one end Preparing K6ji Kojfis a culture of special kinds of filamentous fungi grown on cereal ‘grains. Koj! has been a foundation for the food cultures of Japan and koji ‘mould is called a ‘national fungi’. Mould cultures grown on whole or powdered cereals have also been used in Korea and China for many centuries. There are several species and strains of this beneficial) ‘mould used for miso, soy sauce, mirin, rice vinegar and the Japanese spirit shéchd, as well as sake. ollls the Japanese tetm for steamed rice (or other types of grain that has been cultivated with koj/ mould (Gej-kioy For mast sake, about 20 per cent of the rice {at's used during fermentation is treated this way. Japanese law statos that 15 per cont ofthe nee used to ‘make a batch of premium sake must be ket Sake can be made entirety from ka but this specialty style is ‘made in tiny quantities by Just afew brewers. The main purpese of kof isto provide enzymes that break down rice starcnes into fermentable glucose: ‘sugers (the same function thet matted barley plays in ‘most beer production}, It would be possible to mattrice, Using germination to activate the rice grains’ own, starch-1o-sugar enzymes, However. this would require whole unpolished rice grains tobe used, and the flavours trom the outer part of cereal grains, while desirabie in beer, are undesirable in most sake. Polishing removes the germ (baby rice plant from the Outside ofthe rice grain, so polshed rice cannot be ‘malted. For this reason, sake brewers need 10 use other means of providing conversion enzymes. KOJI MOULD Kjskin isthe Japanese term forthe type of koi’ mould (lied Aspergitis oryzae) thst 's widely usec! in Japan. ‘The Brower stans by spreading spares ofthe koji ‘mould over steamed rica. The spores are in effect sseecs from which the mould arows. In order to grow ‘and thrive; kas mould requires warm temperetures and high levels of water in the grains of steemed rice. ifthe temperature becomes too cold and the water content drops the mould wl stop growing. In ercer to achieve the Idea! conditions for mould growth, evary saica brewery has a speciel 457 room k@jimura} This is 8 special temperature-and humicty-controled rooms, The Inside of he walls of the kaj room were tacttionally Covered wih Japanese cypress wood (hinokh but because ths is expensive and can be difficult to maintain, most modern Kaji rooms are new covered in ‘stainiess steel The mould grows by sending feeding tubes (ryphae| Into the ice grain. These tubes secrete enzymes that, “among otter things, areek covn the rice starches Into glucose. The glucose 's absorbed into the mould's ‘eeding tubes end then used by the mould to suoport further grown Koji mous coes not just produce enzymes that convert starch to suger: they also provide other ‘components thet affect the style and quality of sake, either by contributing directly tothe sake’s aromas and flavours or by prowiding nutrients for the yeast. These ‘ther components Include: + amino acids and peptides, whieh are created when enzymes (proteinases) secreted by the mould break down larger proteins in the rice. They are important yeast nutrents and contribute tothe umarn and very Slightly 10 the acilty of the sake + vitamins, whieh are Important yeast nutlents + lipids end proteins + other subtie aromaifiavour molecules, in particuar a chestnut aroma, Note that Aspergiius oryzae produces very litle acid The main acids in sake (succinic, malic end lactic} come ‘rom the fermentation starter and the yeast. Varieties of Koji Mould ‘Thete ate tee main varieties of ka mould: yellow, black and white, The colours refer to the appearance of Inoculated rice grains. The variety used for most al ‘ake js velo KS Asgergilus oryzae). Tis s because yellow kaj mould produces very low levels of citric acio compared with black and white kaji mould. Acicity hes {ora long time been regarded as undesirable by many Japanese saka crinkor. ‘few sake brewers are experimenting with black ‘and white koji mould The higher level af eitrie acid produced by black and white k6j/ mould ean resuitin ‘a sake with a structure are balance that Is more siilar {to tat of wine tnan tacttiona’ sake, There has been & ‘domand among sake enthusiasts for ths stylo, and this has led to a few producers choasing to make these unusual sokes using black or white Kéy Formats of K6ji Mould ‘Koji mould is usuly purchased trom one of a smait numberof suppliers. There are two formats of koji mould used by brewers to inoculate rce + Powdered, which s simply moulé spores. + Granulated, whieh fs ice thet has ko mould with spores growing on it Most brewers use the powdered kéjf mould. This format Is anewer product Since thas no rice grains it's suitabieto ineculate contmuously ata constant censity ‘of spores. ‘Some brewers stil choose the teaitonal granulated type especialy for ginjo sake, There ate fewer spores avaliable owing to the presence of rice in the granulated format and this can make it easier to achiove a ight, even covering of spores over the rice ~ something that is needec for the production of tsuki raze. [STYLES OF KOJE: SO-HAZE AND TSUKL-HAZE Broadly speaking, kai styles can be classfiee cording to the level and pattem of growrh of the oj: mould. The two extromes are called s0-naze and tsuk-haze, but there is @ continuum in between. For 9 perticular type of sake, the most appropriate style of Kaji might Be somewhere between the exremes, Séhaze In so-haze, the k2/f mould covers the entire rice grain ‘sending many feeding tubes into the centre ofthe ice grain. This is encouraged by using rice grains with 3 higher moisture content, though if tha moisture level Is too high this leads to undesirably uneven mould ‘growth (called rurthaze).In this style, the kaj has high levels of enzyres, vitamin, sugars, amino acids and Peptiges, al of which are procuced by the Koj! moula. Kojirmede in the 26:haze style ensures there is@ more rapid starch to suger conversion and itis typically used {to support a faster and warmer fermentation, Gling ‘more body and favour tothe fal sake, So-haze Kap Is ‘eal for: + futsd-shu to boost he flavour intensity and compensate for some of the dilution that occurs when fo20 alcohol s added + remiuim seke with intense flavours, fal Boey, high ‘acidity and high umam, ‘TeukLhaze In tho tsuk.noze style, the Keyl moult Grows tn 2 ightly spotted pattem over the rice grein. A cross section of the grain shows places wieve well if UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY Pronunciation(s) shu sake se) Jun mal mn Meaning(s) atcohol, sake (con also mean ‘éay) origin cloar, clean, refined pure examine, serutnise fermentation). brewing) greatly, lorge produce, production hon jo-26 BA £8 ae AA AA ARG we EK SH 6 Bk ME AGE ABE Also, Bit Nehor-shu Japan(ese) aleohol(ie) beverage name-rake rave (unpesteurised) sake ko-shu oi (aged) sake Nihon, Nippon ssun origin, Le. Jepan (land ofthe rising sun’) Nuhonshu sun erigin Japenese) sake hon-je-z5 origin(al fermentation procuction Selshu refined (clear) sake (the official term for sake) Janna pure rice Jursmat pure rice in-jo scrutinise(d) fe:mentation gins Scrutinise(@) fermentation hon je-20 Crigin(l) fermentation production gal-ginjo ‘reat{ly) scrutinise(d) fermentation honjo-r8 original) fermentation produetion shu’ sake production sake brewery’) ay im wo special distinguished, ‘selected separately Me, ‘Wve, ‘ving, formentation starter, fermentation origin ‘mountain (but in this contoxt yama-oroshi eters to the poles used for pulverising ‘and mixing ree inthe Kimote method) become outmoded (hebshi means abolition) old, ages JAPANESE SAKE LABELS AND KAN! 3 ERIE Gretcecton nr see FE ANB cprcetsnccen ovat emertton production TREAD Seceleteton nr ce FRB ABRGE Seca concen ong trertaten preaucion ETE Fal hnmenact care SET tate emenaterateter EDL Wins tementatonstrter LLIIBE Tiron sorovainctyeme rot not "Pouncira with poles’ abolition. wg ene! This is an abbreviation of yama-o/osh/ hol-shi ‘Pouncing with poles’ abottion, FE cetacean ste a UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY ‘These kany!onable us to road the following common terms on sake botties: BA nia Ce ABE AURIS MAAC ABE eal A alABE LE Br +4 Aw Pronunciation Nihon-shu Sorshu Junreai ange aaiginjs Jone ginis Junmal doiginjs ronioz6 tokabetsu junma tokuibetsu horitz0 yemarol kimote noma-zake koshu Literal Meaning Jeparfese) alcoholic) beverage rofined (clear sake (the official term for sake) pure rice scrutinised) fermentation great{y) scrutinise(@ fermentation pute rice scrutinised) fermentation pure rice great(y) serutinise(a) fermentation criginjad fermentation production ‘special selection /unmai special selection horiz6 ‘pounding with poles’ abolition (abbreviation of yomar-oroshi haish) living fermentatior-starter raw (unpastourised) cake old (eged) sake 6 UNDERSTANDING SAKE: EXPLAINING STYLE AND QUALITY Glossary of Japanese Words This ic 2 glossary of the Japanese words and names that are covered in this book This lists Included for reference ‘purposes only. Stucents should refer to the Level 3 Award in Sake Specification for guidance with regards to which terms and names they need to know. The kanjl mvegana and katakona are Included for interest only. The only Japanese wating that students need to know is covered in Chapter 16 Jopanese Sake Labels and Kangl. Chagoks enacy okay Echige 0 ine ane stance fekare-shbor ust ‘uta econ fesaene Fua—an 7s ree a BAAR sem mo be shee xem es ‘Simple defrition |Apretecturen orthors Japan. The captal cy oft prefecture nas te same name Ambo ci Ascole for meesutng the level of urar (arin acs ina sake “The ee nun auld that comes out of ta ‘Sake made wth tne aditon of higr-suengm dsttes acon. Atyoe of moderating machine They ave yolalyseered to as abut. he ‘name ofthe leading brand Term ured to dozcrne sake nested ta SO 12 Lealy means, Het enough 10 wermbody end seul Bottle pestewseton Bottle peseuriseton Atermentton stator thos tet predates kinto. Avadtionalseke cup, Aroaian southern Japan ‘nssccatioy. A informal name fr the Japan Sake and Sheena Makers Associaton (USS) abbrevetng its fu rare (nor Shued Karis chaos. ‘category o! area soke made using i wha potshina oto of 80K ols Shab action ofa arallameurtofrighettongh ceil seoro! | buckerst= 1 ypcaly mace cf metal at can be he wh wath a cald ver nd submerged ino fermentetion starter to conrl te lemperature Sending cut The lat stge in a prosucten ‘Tha num & varey of sake

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