Books by Waldo Frank ‘The Unwelcome Man (1917) ‘The Darke Mother (1920) Rabab (ig22) Gry Block (22) Holiday (1983) hull Face (1924) ‘The Death and Birth of David Markand (1935) ‘The Bridegroom Cometh (1939) Sommer Never Ends (1931) ‘The Island in the Adantic (in preperation) ur America (1989) Virgin Spin (2936) revised (1042) “The ReDascovery of America (1929) America Hispana (1932) reissued as South of Us (1930) South American Journey (1943) “The Art of the Vieux Colombier (1918) Sar (198 ay sanchLige) (is) Time-Exporures (By Seerch-Light) (193 Primer Menssje 4 a América Hispana’ (1930) (pub, only #0 Spanish) Dawn in Rusia (1932) In the American Jungle (1957) Gare for Rough Water (1940) Useder y Norotros: Nuevo Mensie & Thero Amésica ioas) (pub. only in Spanish) ‘New Year's Eve (1929) SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY WALDO FRANK NEW YORK DUELL, SLOAN AND PEARCEAll sighs rseroet, ‘ncladng ib il prada Bok inscribe this book 10 Gabriela Mistral of Cle, Victoria Ocampo and Marfa Rosa Oliver ‘of Argenting, Clarita Porse of Cube, and to the memory of Antonieta Rivas of Mesico fe eition friends through many years, sisters in sruggle and ope, acho incarnate for me the generous genius ofmM. CONTENTS Forsworn: Wu tax Journey? ‘Tur Face or Braz, The Amazon elém=-Natal- Vitoria Rio Sio Paulo ‘Minas Gerace May Day in Rio Ancenrove Caparo The Nation and the People Arrival in Buenos Alves ‘The Province of Buenos Aires North Tour Argentina of the Incas Urvavavan IererLope Ancentine CaPatcy (conctupe) ‘Again, Buenos Aires Patagonia Tierra del Fuego A Sortie into Chile Patagonian Oit Last Days Come Vaulting the Andes Santiago ‘Meditation and Proposal “German” Chile 3 6 a % 63 % 4 0 us 165 165 85 ‘ot 204 a5 33 35 iat 6Inrentope my’ Lima ‘A Proposaz ror Paracuay AND Bouwia ‘Tue Booy ov Beazn. The Thick Wood The Mediterranean Sex The Angry Land The Luminous Land, The Mind and the Will (Our Istanp Hennserizne The Three Americas The One America Appexpices: ‘fires om Aria in Buenos Ais FOREWORD: WHY THE JOURNEY arewell 1o Argentina Isoex,WHY THE JOURNEY T got the news oat Peat Harbor a day le Tyas inl hose on Cape Oso; a erp as torel Thad planed sce yout whe go Cot Wc hewine) wil be New York My solute os too bay for ee ra. Now, chance bln! srs trowel et arm on an bcape sae ofthe et ioe aly Emp or Sn Japan The js read ve the poge of yu, tal for thote days 1 find no meation of Peat Harbor, for af the Dacidons anger a Japa occ trou wack, kn wat in whch the Aan pele fi bean inated for yeas The knowlege des Wear ws ous had bec te cet case fy ln Thy gosto te noel Ic hal ae me werk snip Sh Rep ene a Fey Elgin, ad sen ne Spo Ie hal ne del ike “Our Gult i Patent the bok Ger jor Rough Wate onthe fren dt iors try undead wht te wat ey ad our gen Spout. we nights be aed rom eae BPopretdig Final, my subntsont the knoe. Ele ie eal war as bere fore wee eld Scag fom of fa condemn had seat Meine Fl of Apt to wae the avd yy Tear Wwe But half a year before Pat! Harbor, the leer from Sout Ane putea ‘penta bad frown urgent, Tae tone sal aye faendy at Sled abd dived lind the ry te of dane fe: Many te Latin Aree gett aePa SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY lading some which appeared most “cooperative” svith Washington, looked with admiraton on. the aces and Nes Nor fh pope ad mom han aloof sympathy for Brtin, fighting, they thought, forter own Expire. None looked with lary to the United Sates, whose role, slow-forged, of savior of demecracy, did aot fe the Hispano-American con ‘ception of the part we had played, not so long ago, in'Cuba, Mexico, Panama, Nicaragua ‘The destiny of che Ametican hemisphere, ts com- ron democratic desiny, was an old sory to the thildren of Bolivar. And nov for twenty yeas, fom Mexico to Argentina and Chile, they” had. ened with generovs ndersanding to a Yankee who came to them, fis in his writings then in person, to tell the old story in new terms. "Come down, now!” the Jere urged. “Tell ic again, in the new terms: terms af the blood and danger—and hope-af our day and Tn the winter of 1o4o-g, friends here added voice to frends there You most go!” L answered: "OF that kind of work, forthe time being, Thave done my share If what I had to sey on the sire ofthe world meant something to you, i Was because you fele my words rooted in the experience of ae at, Now fe he aie eye ing, They set to work in Buenos Airs; soon T Te: ceived a plan of letores forthe entre country; and projecrs for ocherTands: Urageay, Cll, Bolivia, Peru found myself ins hearyseaswell southward, T even—just in case I did goengaged pasage. (In those remote days of 194i, the delight OF a voyage ‘vas all posable in American waters and during the Tong sil Teould prepare my Ieetares.) In Apr my SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY = ei ewe th ie clad seer a, ariel dee din lad of Brees Suerte led my Se ae dete nd vn rn. vcard eed ed sel ered fled er oes eee ra i ig My fein Seo er aera bee cons rl Peel eis cme mee prick ny fl em mon ty Le copes may Ste fe a oso ea eg td pie Teg Lee ‘Nevertheless, when che Japs struck Hawai, I was ae eal fe ca Se re, Re ma ay i foun ap fom ane ea hss Defy mg genie Cor de Ves ee ee era m,n oa lion at its or rs ply oe ee eg ters Sr gran Se wat Boor, Toe ad tele pre cory eek bard Tee Tog in rer ak ay yf eo ee red berg ele eh ny my eve aa Se ta so iy cas em Bes i apond tel weea ite rest as Erase ead age ye ne Coe After the New Year of 1942, I went on a brief lec~ ture tour. In Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Mlinoisa SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY the indasial core of ou Ind, I spoke ofthe "War Beneath the War the Deep War whose victory alone can jsify the war of the armies and poltians, T fxplaned this ris of Many the despe, the most Sehgerous, the mom hopeful since hikory; and’ out solemn par in. In eypel towns. Calum, Cleves land, Chesgo, Deco, T exchanged. von. young labor eaders wih new men and omen try Jing towed local pais with the social services aad 6 sp of cea and church, We af low at callin was here no we preiching for or agaist kk. The chlenge was to build the collective Worl ‘made inevitable by machine production, so ane Man, 4d noe saves and aoe hordsy might lve a fe ‘Good talk the small hours over the gl of bee, the dis of te. And good news for see this finding, everywhere in my own land, the working tnea and wosten sth thi eyes open to the need of laying the foundations for an Amrican cular "There was stughe ral, too, of estore and the ars—and religion, Tad’ che sense as never before {ftouch with a mind in the American folk, Chih, Inore often ‘than chili, clomey; spoiled in it tates, petlantly rejecting wha oa good for then dksping the cheap svete felony and sul for something bee, {flee i toward the rea. Chico, a woman came tose me wh can speak for many. Sh tld ne ofthe poor farm sb was ised fon, ina remote comer of Kentucky, how her literate father (ihe spoke with veneration sold all his hens to give her the few dollars she needed to tel thetneare school and les How to ead and write Now she wis «teicher of Bap and head come fom Louswile to get cerain dit from me. This child of iterate poor whites, nd ‘Tor, the South ‘American wife of & Spanish nobleman: ander the di SOUTH AMBRICAN JouRNEY si ferences of breeding end expecencs how alike were their realm, their seach their goodwill and the pathos of tel ontce Mow gf te ple wih whom 1 ll wr clansy about expresing tes deep need the need 4 base crave son to solidify te work and ene gize che county with fy not » mechan gar fexion, bor as ling organ whose Jetny ust be democrat. For inte of then, ther immediate jobs for winning the wat were enough Bur what good Easley wan in them what genroes hunger” And they Ttene, der minds open and ready wih lve i their receiving, with lave in ther responding. No, f Aid poe wish to leave my country a this our; and L vas begining tobe aware har mst eave i as thay here My Americ in his hour of death and bth filled me 1 Kew, went from town co town: soon Taba be fying southward “The reaons vere sl all asi i: the superfcil cone, eay to cay and rll ff the congo, But the {rain of whac Iwas doing rans chs moment south Star. The grain ofthe wing of the novel of New Yor, and of leaving the novel after the yeas of bringing et life; the revising my connty, the fenewed touch with is youthe wit ie geperous dream, andthe helping ithe had way-Cwtoue dogma to nd form; the revealing agai as bes L gous Dep War whch se hl sty out lives and our deus at we dae Sight i Of al hi, i share nthe onpanicdstny of my loved land th fran ova running soaiward the grain soon would Se southward journey. Te was not necesary to know more, beforehand ie wan nocenay only to go forward,I. THE FACE OF BRAZIL The Amazon Belém do Poré . .. Natal... . Vitoria Rio Sio Paulo Minas Geraes May Day in RioI. THE FACE OF BRAZIL The Amazon Ar Seen thousand fen a sratlner, one looks down’ geste dace the clos than oily tne lek up atthe Habits the down ino Up. ‘The sy, which is avays beyond the clouds a08 “in hvac ped ey the sea), Barth ean ie the og place Si “ip* by the ld meamre Deoteccan, “HS lobe Become unreal the plane te one tse of fal, se sid and sashes Globe and sy ae ‘one ethereal solution; islands in the sea are a able frots clouds in the sy. Sadly, 1 know Aeethe a of ery no les ten the mak urowe fng in sol our saline © cath-bound. My peso ig aia prop ple Ta tte don workive no los due’ Teis ard fom ts bight to find the mouths ofthe Orinoco Lawer Vener srs fo bea toe of fran sod sany wate Not far fom this cost town, now Ciudad Belin, once aed Angers wih T could sei Tce i hero Sind Bolivar thrown ignomsiosy ot of Bogert and Carcass {Pron sxmingy falar, he eveape ith ew $eihul co this gova wilderesy and ths end of 4 rr, peor bi ioral Prop fore new ove, + Wrnispere of fee men. That wis 9 century sad # [goer ago. The Orinoco sll foods the Leh Linde Ia te sevice of tat dreamed, dsine, Ua blSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY bor Ameen (Ce a lagi aes of today.) 1 am ying surhwar Tow lee inven and lve, Boliar to Roger Willan Ane Hh al ou paste pot fm putts and poets of whom Bolfar never beard fn way of life od in expresion, how remote! Lin- ca ia Kner od ns ot on fot Sevelutonary father not even Jeeron, had. The tary noreijen of that deep diam were pret the fied ones Emerson, Wisin, Thores) were poets In the footing of oar Republi, the sword aad the eteaan's mice were left to *praceal men” And in this diference of pole ation by “specialists” ind by “dceamers” who infsed and conf acon frith pastry les mach of the diferén polical des- Thies of the Amerias teased oe aac ines wert Rat Ge teens inh eg dope of i eer seen ns go Sm eee serra rie Megs Dek es A Erman Dn Sema Dee kee ie Bite Nes ea Ore Fee ee et sac aging of Do nd Coes A ance a eres ate ioe Rena chee hes ore Tinheten a nl ne ig wees te oni eve pea dere Bar are eee scp pti Tech A alien ue a Sie ee eel ‘deeper in it: Storm makes this black solid, savage and tal jagged. Our ship, while the shrieking ran laced us seams to be shattering down a modi, “This vekence of wer and wind, night and sun, isthe se ovee Bri. And now T know shall have to change my plans Tam on my way to Argentina fay fine spedking appearances banqect by the SA.D-E. (Sociedad Argentina de Escrcore) and the inaogurllecrare—are already schedoled, 1 have about eo sveck’ grace in which o work on my eatiy Speeches, before the wishin thot I know ers me Gn my arse in Boenos Aires My plan isto wate them in Peropol, high inthe mountains above Rio, inthe house of my fend, Gabriela Mistral. She bas cabled me, and Thave accepted ess good pan. Like falas from the toned ship, Tdrop a place of it ele for thi journey: Do not pres. Let the people, the Bice the poslend the hee dad the ols Soom ito Su. Do aot worry about the leczures. You donot Ano ‘hjosny, The tor you gen yor pe ad yar ford willbe, id ‘We are above Brazil, nearing the continents Medi- terranean: the haemal Amazon. We are scheduled t0 spend the night in Belém, capital f the stare of Pari, leave before sunbreak; hop the Bulg, with one stop at Barreiras (in the sertio of Goyzz),to Rio. That's my plan. Thats how my ticker reads. And these days, ‘when priory of priorities is needed ro get on the planes 2 al, one doesn't change one's itinerary for a ‘whim, Nevertheles, I know. Tbe Rio plane leaves to- morrow rwithout me. can't vane the Amazon, blow North Brazil out of my sight with a fow turns of the propeller, even though the job immediately ahead is Argentina. 1SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY “The soars aea by comforting aay who, with the story has tien Re postare of epecan Gath (body pron, hands ovr fas) He st down beside teevand Lt hin il say ovr in Belém, go on by ie doer cou le ea Ree By vo He thins well mayb wih my ood. pinky, T anger a flcs two tree day” TS wef of nn oy, con the mim is black cloud banks ca, the firament cn npid an winty, downnard becomes mit istens Gacy below igo enn The en which © Brass we docind,svele toward ux Suddenly from the loud bank the sn thru The opaque por Ble eling of te sy. more nemo tht death, Buches ligt the igh clos imo. enfayed Ends the clots blow tooled Ses uniing the beat of Bl ‘again the sun gone, Our motos soften and we sik ve ewig Eth far fom wy nero Gui asa wonb. Far Loe 8 Ries ie isbyown wate clr of tary nconinene led ing: feo many ers The mai port arty (& turns the Atlande sweet two hundred miles from Shore) nathng the Amazons ara vat conquering tn) eninge Ams ea et ce winder, ery rect pon thence, race delice tens inthe green fet OF the Jungle, Her for itaen over tie and the desig of = es bole ty ce ane flagellin Wey eve Many, anand within the Amazon- ian wate (he nan seam and the Pa) larger han Belgas Night rates from ext ping te day ‘pward, conqueang and cinolidatag et Now he wine the loge clouds Un sly the high Fen olan emer of dy, is Belém do Park... Natal... Vitoria “The hear of Beli isthe markee place, Daca de Ver'o Pea: "docks for seeing the weights The veel litle subous;parllogisns snd ingles SF le, maroon, orsage; the hulls rooghbewn. by and from the dick Attazon wood, crowd and ts in the levee They bing fh prey, charcoal they load ce, sigan cfr: Dowa the Pus ninety mie, Fr che sty and arom the low lsh exe aad, Ma jG laced with ines, laes canoes of he ‘Amicon. Berwecn the boats and che peri ope. eat water tick with debe of commerce: eld ody ranges manic rors ena the uraburd— BSrsian burmdewel snd dp, Hack, wise bids ‘ith eed end ro sow the cane of tel rane On thee sides, he pot ensconced in iy ia mould ting Homer courteous with blue ey, prcetois Srth cupola and rarer in cafés and «church and a Uma one the crumstaon yhece a Toudpener fils the ir with soba “Th fll. seh is che fll of Beil! color of cine amon and eat, sien 2 ca, earh-trog, eurthe ek with the languoroes longing of all ath to emerge and erancend elf; wheter in tee, Bodies or in dream. A tlle people! jc sme Neo Hods ere i none of he such whit the slorsauipped tothe waist with trouser color of loam under the caebrae, and the fees sweat on thelr elasic bodiee—ehe lors are predominanly white But there is none ofthe nese. OlSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY ssinatter Dt chet Sea tomrbeers fete Se men with sl od sin of Aft, yeh SSE Tes ars ea he SN etter tag So pucted wi buyers and sey sence, Vi, slaughtered beeves, and the white venom-aleohol, Seiegeradsy acme Snareias = meeicad Me hmhars.certl Soyieiaie omens. Young worsen, wich he ong Diack aan the hooey ‘oredr hac Tae wrong: eroughon al the mss of ‘el fem ee Sates of Pik Avazoas and Mare sth fe ns Germs aad Nico Groso, there i ore Taian blood fant rapecel, 8) ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL cher women inthe world, Te folk is noe hesehy. Ait heokocm (etn cdte tare valea stomachs), cannot explain what fa they ae merely Somacesynpoms of sme Jeep unease his India ied people 'Nar the Pore i «pak, fringed by 2 convent, a church, mansion, all saved of the colo em. For breath away from the incene marke, Igo there and son a etch in te shade (Belem, one degree Sneha arm sever i ae wae Temper i) am joined by young dare woman, ie teligent, gy, caaverol (Sere ae few fe people Sn Brn) She fea laundtes out of work, wena, living wis her mother Unmanied.T ak er why. ‘Ales pede soddnly from her ght: irony, eh Sua, controled dad rely secopeed. (Ud can Sdettnd more ofthe Brain flePortoguete tha Vinnagined) She tells eae has bad no coffee is rornng;T give her les She acl out «bare, Sin leg with its wood clog the foocwet ofthe poor, Shoe, she ly inform me, cone sk mle She's ing to “dome” but all in good chee. T five her true, Now she rs het brow and, Seouve and receptive He an animals mou, down ier poor black fe [aigh at her and she doesnot aii te cop of new en. The Para a ke the Span, area comsmerial-ninde inested tsi, oo, as been wage. The young ‘woman, [el i employing commerealsymbals fot ‘ome playfl ately uotonnerll en T stl back othe marker The Marj6 wooddork i oon te tte fody ami he Bligaorakin arti fr the mote pat in bad ste fod Tor the vous. This fle poor, notin food + Werth boat fe ont, iSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY (asin, banana, fb) bin cls dn ek low poor I extnoe gues her in Belem “The waters of the Park are cinnamon under the sun The Park enor setlyAnnazon. Except inthe Season of rin when the gree Amazons nie By fot, Hood a aillcn square sles of jngle and” pout through the Marj canal the Pak gets most of is huge rate from the Tocane whole sour fife tec hundred miles toshe south n Goyan. The Tocan- {ins anormal ier che Amazone 4 ederanean Sex. Vien Yaor Piosb, the Spurr, whofe Gicovered icin 1500, named ie well Aor Dale. Orelano, the Spaniard, who fint descended from the Andes to the sex and on 0 Ce, sling from {he Nap above he Das n bons that be bul from jungle bes of Bator, misamed i Amazons ere ween heaved, fad ogi wah chr en nt him, on his ening ota. "FAD ope tam, iarked Crear, ounces me plea anuly abou twa, Its three funded chousnd inka {Ens imo the huss elas cies of tart Yea tellusie peoples eer seem to Rerizntl and inward (de samba); wheress hoe of Spunah America are overe and pespendiclar (A+ cna i bath hoon and petpediclt, ke the fy ech geal pens Bete mango cs the trots more expres, more active than the gende people, (Irecll Hare Crane's great foc on Ge muigo'Teis ee express the nen Ey of avin canines, andthe srr sbey of wign pepe 1 baler song ome nd. But Ieee art) They ae fo bl there robber milionares (mostly Bory Gh palaces in the good old days when. Amazon EobberShod the whee ofthe wotld. There ae it unerble quet sects folk avec, smotbered ia ‘se ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL banana and banboo, barely emergent from the jungle and the fol low casefuly from she stone and beck, upon the long homble des of living. AC the 20, faous for kt Amini specimens, T glinge av camrnay tthe besy bihy epee, seem a home! Many litle ereatures ae free cea shout bt the caged oy te ced one, too, ate srangely relat asi they were les ae tothe fall than the bess of other tous, What dows ths mean? Have the fal of Bad earsing co cnth sad ewig thc 0 chm an gil tie ‘ladon? a new dssiny in psychology and culated Twached the bile Amizoaian monkeys: howls, scales spider monkeys, marmonsy bing fed 3 ce of meal with corn grate ia i ach gabe & rage lump and races up the bars for sary from the ater, none deans of eating ce ots neighbors Pea lee, ans, hd The ey ofeach For Kel hte imme Aad ma pe of srgle to emerge from i the traggle iul 80 Seeley he na a ha enc i hough ke back with ne tothe hoe: The Grande Hore is fll of Ameian solders American Air, American engineers, After diner they on the nil seca bles with ber and whisky and soak In thelr own tll How many have ever fone down tthe Docat de Ver Peo? or down te Sde-block, 2 mp away, where che folk and within th sanbas of the Hide cafés—in the dak gues under their Tow, poor unt homer—and le their gentle words (thang so mich Hike Rowan) and ee hare eyes fd chet hands reaveave the ever braking, vere ‘ended human harmony between thea The whole town prepares for tomorrows celbra- tion of Gerlin Vargee birthday. Boys and gis (ese in prey Boe shies, white Hows) marc up tialSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY and down the Praga da Replica, behind 4 drum corps. Gaiety and exe (hse are clea of the barges ot ofthe tersile sero, not ofthe more jungle, thc are nine ents of Bru). A lew ware folk Vcannr imagine in ll my hous, ts fa, mathe and in crowded soe, Ihave seen one gears el At a sore where I'had my shoes shined! the Batt was waging bate with one ofthe bootblcks he ay watery angry ad the ad rced s abuse guys then the man grew gay, the lad’ angry, nal again te moods shied. as’ wat lengiyy low-keyed, without inve Ielevanly, no doubt, rade ite think ofthe fabulous thity-nonch’ much Of the Column of Lui Carlos Pres rough teen thousand mules of Hews a desperate, ule, besa tiful rvoluonary gare oat would have to Bo, pethaps, to Chin to tnrvel, No! One wold haveco fo t0 Brazil! Here Tam onthe surface the face Sf Braall My ‘consence hurts Agencia sm. Belém’s society guthersronght at che hotel to e- hearse for the Vargas birthday eslbration sto be 4 benef forthe Bash Red Cros. A beau blonde (with cha uodetone and tide of Braian dares ast in her skin) sings "My Old Kenrucky Home” ‘The Bonnie Braes of Lach Lomond.” Jad other Scotch dities, The big smash i the American Song, {How Lovely goto minal whe a bara jon af vingins one by one walkout into the spotlight, fain on tlie raft'n the cemer of he dae for inating the strats of Hollywood modes, At buen tables wrething the foot, ce the mothers and te Youths. "The gis are dresed, to the fall ofthe bait ped in ivisble snoods, lite U.S.A. ‘They are prety and soft afew exceptions, mosdy plain, show tl THE FACE OF BRAZIL the intligence and wifulnes of the “modems.” Free they are, al, in their deep acceptance of thet Sex Id ia fs diferene fom fur ween The Ame ‘man doesnot ike woman. He uses her, of cous, se tually, as mother or as comrade. The esentil woman he does nor care foro fear. By a dangerosslion ‘of generations, he has made our women unacoepting of thee sex. A child, abou sven, dances a tap dance badly. No a single note of Brazil inthe whole show. el asin on my previo vie the Dra ian, pethape alone of all Tbero-America, adie the Uniced States (I refer of course to the upper case, since the fli in Brazil are hardly aware of our exist ece) They dream of rivalry, om abe same terms. “Aren't we big? arene wo as rich in resources? aren't we increasing by leaps and bounds in popola- "The one hope i inthe folk Bra, which has never hard of the United States and has never heard the word “democraey"—posesing # brand of it more clemeatal than ots. Bot this is not “hope” this desiny. Brazi's democracy is neither polieal nor economic. Te does noe wipe ovt the coorline—which is entirely economic and in full view, here ia Belém. By and large, the humble workers are dark; the white col fle igh is, honey. The ecoptns ae the poorest and the proudest the cebocor of the gay~ Sele bout Their Indian Portuese sain has none or lial of Africa. [suspect the Africans make poot ‘mariners, «natural rsa of immemora life ina eon ‘nent with few harbors. : Harbors mean communication; commenication means cultural fertilization. ‘The “bacwardaes” of ‘Alf he oranda of he whole Mederansn ‘world have as one of their many complex causes che ‘spective lack and profsion of harbors. 3]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY indent on come “nd Sleds han xp coun lent bit of land on each, Palestine seems to fefire ry ey bt had te iene a of et ys indeed : i lay on the crossroads betwees ne emp : Egyps Babylon, Asyria, Pra. T Piest Ames: Ih pla fom the es nd ie Sompursive isoladon doubes fed the peychologica inflexbiity which helped to make them fl ae he Sri Te ne th Op ie Bruns the bos wre mami thr soe ale te ge he at he soar he be aas, the seringueiras. And here isthe Parque R es : ‘Aves, whe the scaal junge fe preteved. Chet teh lle tying vest ba sa Palm fom which eof th eabockn rewed, tne gers peo oa dak eg Brian halted, To dank ths donk Bee Hee saan Baa vf Fem Pome at feos ; anon os why sage en? Ty at al ; sg rl one fm or eh tol nd pat en od win ay ng SR jp tigre Keath feet tech ines al : for ats is hide is hard as mahogany.) Occasion: i eon cee teal ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL ay, the nosy macaw top for breath then Tear the aye bom tea tha one hears everywhere, Lam 0 ee the avcalar welcome. So bere, ast Lam it inBramvrian jungle. (t fool myself this not efor one can wall here, on the underbrsh cath: Jhmge oe jungle each sep isa Sghe and dubious viewry.) Tevet, hers, in he ere oft baie jennie ny meditation grows, Uhave he ene of 235 Jone wPliee sadness, of all animal life imprisoned sere Cantal This opie nature is hose to man. The in atin reqponded by denying i; placed all is eae outide, wbove, That is Hlinda eranscendentale EROS e African merged and fused. The Hinds sense sea ia an Maya: life as doom seems inevitable in Shetopes forthe Human sprit which would be fe fd ye osm techoes to aes the oie, 1nd Popicw, Nonzeose In these annals T fel the Edy ‘setlasness the ruthie, quiet and perpetual ris of being caught in fe: te clas mood ofthe opie. Pi: tndian of Panama and the Carib sea (the Chib- char for instance), unlike the East Indiany accepts Seon wieh a acute he can neither master nor Scape, fie cule, in is classic form, is refwsl of his ‘ally mastering ure i elaborate itellecralira deadly foyntematization ofthis refosal. The Negro in ice ackepeed with an aesthetic, emotional, organic ‘Ateneo whote dignity and valve che white ma Saisie blind, The Brazilian? He cannot accept n4- has ese Afsican’s purely emotional-astheti level Tre oe In him too much ofthe intellectual white man Hae oe refuse nature inthe transcendental vers Of the Hn, sere sn ton mach of Af Ne ieriadin, Again, I feel here the bepinings of the AT hose marsages of the spirit, of TWO Spi slSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY which are fertile atthe mariage of bodies. Already, in the past, I prophesied a new culeare-birth in Bra. Now igtin. 1. If only L could renin; study.» «+ Flighin a sunaumera ee, a red-faced monkey chat~ ters down at me, How nimble he is) and how illat; tise his lle reesy, helpless and uaconsions soul! ‘Verily, God i in that monkey; and in the Brazian man and woman is the tee fag earth ino leaf and boss and sky! With heavy heart, through the dace ain of the oats before dawn {leave Bel, The mod road and the dipping bush cradle che car forward. A Sentinel stops ts and petri, les ue pis. T do not Saito live Bel I have seen the face of the ‘Aimzen; and there ae faces eh ell heir ery and ther fates that do not cel hae ave one fawn, ssiontly, deeply. This face of nor Bail hat Eitied me, Ike the hillenaon which tine and sharper waking pooves to be, noe fans, bat fat Feed we logit the need to pence i rth “Yeus ago when 1 was posing trough Ri fe cxived an invitation to revise Bra “Wen Tea spe atleast ix months on the Am zon” was my sae “that you know the Amaron! Tn your book, Amer= den Hispana, the chapter on the Amazon, “nthe Forest hasbeen quoted scores of times by one bet dee Gibere Feyre, our materaniologsy in his renet bony Cars Grande 9. Seri, praise Youe nowiedge of sort Hel ait of ies deny i our nascent evlare”™ Thang my bead Thave aver sen the Amazon” “Bye "How," find Tam enbartaed—"bow could 1 vite & book abou Ainesie Hispana, and leve out tal THB FACE OF BRAZIL the Amazon? make confesion, now. I believe ii the one tne in my terry avec T hve been el of thie T describe the Amazon, and T have neve sox "No" came the aecarate Bran reply, “sanehow youre fe" "ave never ben sed 1 Ive Belém for my phen tary of hee Tove om So Pre Santos These are land thus of res touts father from the Amazon thay the’ Amazon ftom Mix Yer my days here fav ad ee how tre owas ny imation: Bre ove ind one county. Par Bin the sudens of Ris, most of whom buve sever sen iy Pat iin the codee-nemensoring the pangene tron, ers in Santos T want to unde Eats and Ido not undetand Bra Tcan tell you wht i snot what ie has ot been. Te has had no her revelatoy net when or free from Portugal oe wien i changed fom ope to republ. When i reeds saves he ae of fern 188) chad no cv war hs had no rawr oes oan Nat, an, no Sucre no Fisalgo, no. Sarmiento, ho Oggi vo Juste no Cletenay or cven ste Setar Rows or madien te Parsgay’s Fanta and pene bar had gem pramone He the niet ied ret diplomats lie Rio Bement diplomas dre Anericas bes) A caany ce But be has Proce siniy ileal Coginer wth tie gree tor miary explo since Boer fos ered And Slejadia, che malate leper whose sales and hutcher is Minas Goreme him probably the festa plc arse born inthe Amertas since the Senques® Noy ido no undestod bros whatever Ben's poe cies may have found ina few of my page: Cnet T now the Amaro, Bhi the sea telSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY [shall never know Brazil. And the plane wings me southward. - We fllow the coas, the vat face of Bra. The fase stp i Sao Li capital of Maran, ike Pack fan Amazonas, an Amazonian sate of Behold jun- lo and hage tater. Frem thistle por, in peace Eines goss the bebup, an oll shone fore nay be as phenomenal athe soybeans. Babaga makes sold ores in’ Maranhio. On twenty-one milion acres inthe ste, there ate ehieen millon babagt als, yielding snnallythineen rlion not, one Fandfed-ninery-fve milion tons of ermele Since the bbago gives 2 ber for rope and carpet, and i 8 Shae con or ey se set ssn ‘lemnarguine, and other foods, and ecient feel for Dice the potential wlth of the see can te imagined. The town locks Tein, with sts corde shite rofs and its gay sl inthe harbor: more med ferrneon than Athate, New saddeny, we leave Ttsines fr drouth,Piul and Cost are the dryer and poorest stats of the union, the clase ster of the Extio. Hlere, that flere land of cacros and horned trees comes down to the sa; in all the other sat Serio flan sb a hundred als In Gang, Tbe ok th crash scrange pal whose wax aes out phonogrsph re== Grae When the drouth bres, che carnauba dies Sr fo, Theo in at where rs Sea's the seat’s main weath, We sop 2¢ Arzea Brant: sid The “hie sand? ale ‘Ache Daige, the ring reruro, once again the face of Br ie aol, ested gurden—rling, bo te inland win ity tos handred sto sr. Wielhave been delayed by strong head winds, we sl ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL hl ped the ight ia Na capil of Rio Grane "A clipper, a huge gray whale, i ready to take off for Siers Leone, Ase, eighteen hondred mies aay (Guenos Aires nearly a thousand miles more die- tant), Bombs have been found on these ferries Brvil Bull of saboteurs), but n0 one stops me when T innocenly walk aboard and look around. Along the const and the sve, chroogh the elippets window 1 See the white cents of Ametican soldiers “The town ses on a hill in nest pink and blue Sow thee a ol carck wih cbr Manic ine facade (mos of this Porogues architecture, in the north, exprses tendernes and now, not power of depth). The main boulevard ined with Fubbery jombeios, whose natural pyramid. sha {timed to poodle-dog fnenes, makes them poptlat Sn & Bhd of flan the ust ot 4 rch or deep af Parl’, And over this gentleness, Bink pa plane ras, War tied ine wo lads promply “adope” me and show me town, When Tin tied, we go on chating in 2 cafe drink beer and they, the lying, popular Gucrand, A thitd tad, a bootblack, joins ur Ar he shines my hoes he shows off his thee words of English. For ‘which hei pid profusely-—a whole mile! "As night Fees like doom, we sand above the city toward the sexs the fhermen' boats merged with the auefce ofthe ocean, seem tobe fying fishes, How {agile i man on the sa! and how courageous! The hotel, as in Belém, is full of American soldiers. “Twenty of ts wl bak tonight on cots in the dining room. The food, ain Belem i coane and tales ‘After dinner, 1 take a chair into the mild Jone lke night, Acros from the hotel in a park, i + small church, The door i open; Tce the pies oflate at U9)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY benediction, and hear the bells of the service, Beside the church is a municipal shelter; from its tower, 25 from the tramstation in Belém, a loudspeaker broad- ceases music, A small sumber are with the priest a lange crowd stand before the sembas; men, women, children listening with that Indian fixity which bere Jha less rigor, Ie isa fixity like che palm-iree’s: flexible and fertile. The hard core of the folk: music lives through and informs i stave and indolent surface; yet does noc break it. In a great culeare, such valves as thes inhere in the cultivated arts and letters, Not in Brazil. The "bour- geo" arts, with exceptions rare but brilliant, are French, Porcoguese and Spanish, or American adapta tions. Alone, sill insulate, is this porent music. ‘My mind goes back to the Amazon, nearly a thou sand miles northwest, behind me, Low, slow, turbid ‘ith life sudden yer seasonal with change, fed by all the sun-drawn waters of the ocean, dating a conti- nent to the sea, the Amazon is a symbol In its une dwareness of maa, in its effece upon him. How will ‘Brazilian man assert himself, and yee not lose the Ams: zon in kis soul? “A major problem, T can see, is the elation becween Brazil and the othee Thero-American Republics. A problem not unconnected with the relation between fhe Brazilian earch and the Brazilian. Ibero-America ‘must be strong if the United Seates isto be nourished by i, And to be strong, berween Brazil and the Spanish-speaking domain, there must be integration ve the unpleasant sense of fsure ‘The contline of Bri slosh and low. Vulnerable. [Ac every river, there isa town: sailboats, small coast {wise steamers, (The towns are preety with their red ‘ate foofs and thei pink-blue stucco -.. and dwindle {201 ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL off quickly into thatch huts within the palms and mane groves Recife, coptal of Pernambuco, cual capi of the nonth Flere lives Gibero Proye, Breas most Induced soa enc, here Aourahes a school of oes Res the cee of che region from whch femme the vt revoiconary novelists Joe Acro, Jost Lin do Rego, Raquel de Qucor,Joge de Lina, Jonge Amado, rate tse group of vein South Amis cay. Ando iy way to Argenta Macs, capil of Also small gar sate, Are cot cape of Serpe ll sales ete ove fa oven sar le Here the mighty ver 8 Francie jugular of Boal che Amazon isis ‘vor totesen Fro the sn, Seo Sivan ‘opel of ala and once capal of Bri, seems 8 Sle, es drama Lisbon ting on curve ny tod EEepuan hil fom a water geensylow sik both theson and che carte We sl or nake Rio coight. ‘We shall dep in Vio, ld separ apa of the Tele sta, EsiitoSaty which bs he se rom the ssh sa, Mas Gere Vitra sin dsp bay, natrow a8 a ie, whose banks ar sudden hl fury with jungle. One of them tas the charsteriie shape of the Plo de Asucar in Rio's harbor The own consi of vey ld snd very fw ings tem fe pw Plans hs digg Bo the od gies he town Eharace sl sen in sl, wid no if no noble fg, no sordidnes, cer, ad litle yoann beyond {be nao power of te hil For the fit tne on ‘his joey Tse she workers. he port workers Predominantly dark, they are pave sad gone T telSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY underand the scemtyfreny ofa ro evolon SAC Tes ming pron mar ingroup Beas’ (wn hound en apne he CS Army nl sre ec, Cr Te fev gre feb begining, wi Tides ive boon agonits) The ale eas here, more than inthe soy devas fom Bris ear and tes ert chren Here le the proces has tae te suth mse ofthe eouay nie ntl dima Sint tbe Foret ‘New, Ge seeooaealy trge poe spent dhe "Wont rontcons (th owt sole), se borin ange hin tp ra Zavie wat ion by this mine boone taje be was a Je. The Pecrpace “Ze pecan of Bann ooh Rio de Janeiro Brazil Tepes, wat not on my work nrcy ane el wise cinch monn of Rec fis; proered by anonymity and peed by te Saunth Andean pt of ny beloved feed, abriee Hib Ame pre ng oo wore a ny Argentie and Chilean aces Therctoe Teper Gabria a the Sites Dumont Atore Thelen git expec the ange Sout of wey etal newspapernen,phopsephers represen: tives of che Ferien Ofc, of the Acalessh of the Insaco Bra Exator Unidos ey who nee thes fo greet me Temwssoces Gri Ariba Misses foe Inclecral Coopers nthe Kamara, the Pony Ofice was thereto nfo tne tat {Ws gee ot fon of ea ; iss somewhat wpesing. If Tam Brats gues, snot Gabi std if Brel hows Sg of sag {pay mesome atenten how at Lhe swe tal vor in Gaia vila The trouble 9 ep hoa that. What are my aon withthe goveroneat af ett Vargas, Praia of Bea fen wgsote by grace of poplar revoluon; cats of Bog sce November te 957 by an sony coup eat which the negra te Ie feos helped Rik Teis ue ehae Varga fumed punt the faba tee the eaer, Pini Salgado sere ae My one word with Gee Vara i a fs bec 2 cable seme yous ago, ng to sop the aged tortare in prison of that sxindy commune Lae Con ios ree snd rele hin, Well Ids ak obs tlSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY a gues of honor. 1 came fully prepared to pay m hcl bill Ifthe government hs on pyiey tes icv be, afer ally with the peoples money. And why should Int be the gues of the people of Braz, whom Tove, whom I would serve? And how serve them if fire T do not eam to undertand them? If T reftse thi unsqnght and unexpected honor, stall have sal tlimce to fee the people one ean’ mab an ator fasin governments and ger sway with keinside is bordess fan Posscrige: Why not have a look athe goverament, too, before pasing judgment? nn ean eg lang g Sein sa eames Se fat he She ee of che eee ee ee le rie ony men fe Beh Eee cee py oat wen a wom of epi mn ee gt ni Pa Repay Tn eb Mei ems et ig mpeetceysbelaeie Pig Fag fe ey hogs te erent er ener sea he ort of te Perea edged nr silt, poten win Dns, wa she Senet of ple pec de) ne op a Faget beet er raeiny a eet pet i he cet gene of ciel ls in rice Hepes | dal eee) 9 if meee eee ge Sys Tn eae iar snip dre a a ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL nw ones wih lls and pene Fecoieal goverment buildings (wholly ou of line Sv the nds stam hotizots) are chs unified iy forts The cigs integer is fore, dreumambient td invading, andthe sea om the Praga da Republic, T have the town's hear before me between the Morro de Sio Antoni, ‘evel suns on ts bres, wild the sammy and the Morvo da Concecio. This seep hill ands within the commercal avenues. on it Sane, 2 ruined fightenth ceararyBahops palace, now 3 haven for Sie poor who make their homes ints cavernous bare svat pie by_besh and tre, On the farther flank, Wind shee where the gente poor quieay hose od Fined cabintmakers, wives of tariner, postmen: ‘Ava window, beneath a parses, sts «git in black, feng aa lye and sts a the old man with pace, Teas Amb face, who sels shrimp pattie. But Lam femembering thay Lcannoe se the gic lovely 2 Ty, fm he Baga ds Republica. Te sors near the Tate de Sio Jonge, behind the immense and aropane Minbery of Wars are nosien soley the pulcus of Ahieves of jaungor (rats) died in fem che se {Gey and of te dangerously poor. et even hers the below favo Rite odo of sare re Even in the foughes alleys aim the mango, Fameys de papaya the tang nthe snes “At aa tage cet ar dat save for afew shops. Boye bd bones fr lack of ige beeween the Wide= Spaced lanterns to ste the gia hey pas, And the Bib ean and swect dos salle by, an the boys sie fee bees lengthen thee tomtom pine their andes. In the date reoms above, the women e naked on thei covers bets and lx their hungry babes er to hc beats, Then they place the babe, aeep with Sten atthe foe ofthe bed, and wae for thle man bs)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY to eral to them. Bue this night che holy nighe of Stine George, there tno lewermaiing, andthe baber tous sole while tcc mothers wally and the boys High no fires on the sultry sect and the ics no fires inthe hears of the boys Al rea caries Rio converges tothe Pras Tirsdenes and the Praga de ARepllie rom Sio Antonio the Mereado, the fog shoremen's shane near the Praga Maus, fom Glen, Gener, the Piris das Chita from 8 far afield a So Cheizorio, where Rio les on the somnolent, nen sr of provincial cy ‘We pas the log senda waking Hines, and ener the chirch by «small dor through the eloers. We se pte dog he ck ong she ca, recy facing the Sain’ image, where we may ay le we wih . "We" are my new fiend Viniis de Moraes, one of of Bras pos nll nthe pea ice” apt at opening all door for uy frend Vinicius hom P erxen Mepis becate he looks Tikes gltane Sev andi his guar, his songs hs Tore of women-aer the part ml, ad Eee. inde Reni kaew of er would make te master iave hi grave to punt one Bia pia. Itehar gay and great Frenchman's at was the spthe: oak of fee woman fh, Ede i the apotheoi of Al Reno She large, het rests round st apples, but far, far greet aad withthe consinency of peaches, Her ead has that harmony of melo mouth, Eiy‘and heay eye, platurous mane, low forhend ‘which inthe bet ofthe Renoir merge oon Bote (het, Edd inthe color of da honey. "The Sule i gigence oquennan toy, gandly painted and bedockel a boy's dream of a hoby-hose Oe ny en py Vie wy ey wd eg ong bt ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL rsed twenty-fold. From the Sune’ hands and gle tering pase sword crimson ribbons flor down tothe flor where they are held hy lade. The tiboncends are medal. And asthe cirioca ia throngedSngle fle reaches she Sun, lady gives hin the ribbon to be lied. Workers women, children, Kis the medal which i joined ro the Sun, and are thereby bleed By the Sane Nursing mothers pres he medal ibe Bon to the Bud mets of thes babes. "The folk is low-keyed, contained within a kind of fatllmene At mes» arly this flflinent brrms forchs'a woman in estan, 2 dark bent man se pain pet, hi bed sal dy 9 pl Tar ongcmic ‘The thong in line watches tac sparse phenomena, untouched in i ques = Teould drink in ths spectacle forever; only con- sideration for my frends a long last pics me away. From the Church, we went to the Mangus the home of the cheap whores ana means ma abo iemeans mangrove arhy nd by te se Along the rvo-tored homes of er sey sen he the Roos Carmo. Nec aad Abii. Cason te ‘women stand behind open doors and window 2 a Uhnone dea ery the ware. Thay sand behind Horizon bare: odcessly clad in poe Bey nthe svar ligh, They ae Neprene gl losoming, hey Ie tepuhive baniiae’sivensing.themseles Feat they ae matronly women, s-beame, of ‘rit pain wad kindly fate Thee (C have owed 8 Tate phenomenon wherever te pos sat plc), ne the ply oor the young tod the more vio gee ‘most cstomers, Prostiton for men who works ‘ore fae mor he seking of «nah ha of seta {ght Three’ thousand hey rey inthe Hague Sv in hes dm cag! A from ther aa hey toSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY dare repare, rough words and sf, abuse when the impo te Pe preving mond of mes nd ty, the anger and ey of despi, For these ae {i Sele and know st (lew lak Crosson thelr take breast) the soll garbage of Cole couse rong the confines of the Mangue, parol American amatioe police, to keep the gobs ut, (Two American ‘warhpe are in the harbor. “Where do ous boys gor” [aly ss we rem t0 the ear, (Edince ba posently aad as, her ce in the Manga scree would probably have ed ee Mephisto sys: "Well show you.” On te wep we vat a deal whore Bios ons are decayed midle-class caries. The tse ean lean the dances are obs snd elas) ‘Thar i more enon, more neve, more verve, in he Mongue. ‘Now wear ina dstie ofthe pens. They are detached vill, sone or bk, not unlike the mes of sal ene: Sure and Hampstead or of pro- fess in a German sive town: We eros 26x den plahore in the nighe Wit opie dowens we clin sar blistaded in carved in. Ae he tables fn the packed foyer are Amesean salon in white wey dank. Over then, brain thee wot hai from Tt brows; mopping op the ovtearmed gla are the flail over nulls, ‘They ate nether preter ores tough than she caged rcs ofthe Mangus Iccushope they are more hygienic. Before sil leads her boy upstas she hands Saf of mires tothe Madame, bald pessane from Provence, who grasps icity like a vere President Vargas is taking the waters at Pozos de i) ‘THB FACE OF BRAzm (Caldas, pa in Minas Geries, He is not expected back in Rio before May Day. fr My days and igh are oo fll for chronology ot spe Te es Stemi cel Ac hs Cenetenct, he spores fon Ce papers fe answered all my "quetons-and sated in thee cles that 1 Bid been the ce inerviewer, Cons tring the the prew in Bev mused and of low sult, che res were fal air and incligene Toe Use intriew was in Direcoce a ier weakly igsated jouroal with « ger eicalaton than Ti New Rept sar nee tmgron ss iough the goverment reactionary tpi, cil eee, Sune Wanner fa fw; a noble and courgeous Jew ‘A Manbd isthe goverment shee To canouoge dtvery, ic employs some of the bet wears of ht unty snd give shen copies ley freedom. ‘The editor ofthis erton js Ribaro Couto one of the pate sere of Chncdon Onaldo Ariba ad the Bruin nce! wo fs Gone matt ett Ieowisige of other Ameren ineraarey, "The Present of the Awsclcio Beside Im- pects (Che Pres Astcadon) is Rofero Mos a {irene kd of Jew, Mowe ia Cathele conver aad ts incmate of Vangon He was one of the ft © freee oye fat home inl cmp There fa Noses someting ofthe Enplah tadesman ho has rade money; of she pate we teal sur it ‘Srecntveentury Porcgaland Spa, the converted Sens change of she lngusson ey cond 4d ruth is Asocnton i housed in one of the fos moder sod magaicene tas of oo, te Einoor AcBLlke eo imny of the masse new official edifices, its ‘mixed functiofalism and self sserons confiing. Almost Roman. The Prragese tlSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY eee ee eae fe Ss Spe oe Le et eee Eo de AL a aah Soe moe ee cae eee Wey apenas oy gee mete ie! Se aad Be aeeesrerecr Sa ee pede ae te geet ee niet ae ttt bed el fie ewe sng gach oe ae ae geo prep ia a Oem Bagi Aero repo cry Or le a Cos ee te Pet ee as ae Amt of Vege was eal of bpm Ve lay eee ss 2 J sae ig mer eh sty eee ee ake ge ie nd Fee : te i Dl An eee ee ee Ce ee ahaa” copy Jo Las do Rope ree ante a eet as Realy Ta As mel eas ce Frain it wien fee Vibes elie eet eee on oe ee ase a ee bo) ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL vey city of importance and writs a daly etc for them al Atan of shrewd erunie—and shrewd “Alter dione, wear joined by the Miniter of La tor, Marcon Fitho, This clever lawyer from Sto Palo std exotgratina i theultimate in eynician, He eas his wee exer fom his mouth and sy tome, in colloquial Poruguee “Sve around, brother, and you'l see right here in Brac, the now world inthe naling While you Ther and rade were talking abou” “The elle swings round to ouF Ambasadon, Jer son Caffery Sudcely, the woice of Asus shows ie ti and resentment “gee plenty of cade to pink ces, coca and sere Ginter yout Eningy. 1 have no Ge fot tha bilge Boe not one hae your Anbseador invited mie vo se down qucly with ba, for» sel lk" As Idrive tothe Itamaraty, the gracious old pslacs, now the Foreign Office, whose gardens stand in Rio’ sums, I recapialate what I feel about Brazil's poli cal situs; the premises of our political support (for ‘war's sake) of Our first South American aly, From i5z0 to 193, Baal fel che sane denecrae upsurge that was manifest throughour the world. Ia ‘many countries of Europe, these progressive forces put Labor and Social Democracy in power. In others, like Italy, before they could get there, they hed cal- lapsed through their inner superficiality, and resction. inherited the chaos. In Argentina, Brarl’s poweeful southern neighbor, these progressive forces for the firs: time had elected a radical president, Hipdlita Trigoyen, crue fiend of the lcde man of the cities and the chacras, the small farms. In Brazil, the ferment could ac go beyond ain, epitomized by te iSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY epic march of Prestes and his Column through the Es Hans fe coy, Pro hae ne trata young colonel of the engineers, without pol fl edocs: iaaienai on Nara His fogged troops brought hope to the hale-tarved ser= Tanejos; andthe rfl sae brought him to Marne tconciounes, But his march did not touch & single fnportne urban center, He remained in the hiner: tenth and Brwils major popolation lives on oF near the sereoa. ‘From the same sae as Preses, Rio Grande do Suh rie two politi advearres: the cold, plump, spder- like Getulo Vargas and Oswaldo Aranha the brie ane geocho, They capture the idealism ofthe Ary (Ghe fevolotionary movement ofthe Young ofr {gee came tobe known at fenieninfo, and prodoeed Press) che dalam of the inlets, ad the faich ofc mae ep nt ad cose tty. Tn i930, Vargas, by armed rebellion agunse the Eos ‘of Watingro Lin det. Labor nso organize Also fascism, ender the Inegrlia Giecasins of Pino Salgado. ‘The democrate move ‘ment on the oer hand is dominated by the Alisnza Libertadora Nacional, whose more conspcuots lade, Prest, has oined the Commanise Party. Ans ths trareme left, Vargas, convinced conservative who fs never hidden his conemp for “bourgeois demo acy, leans toward the Tnagralias. Tn 1937, DOW @ ingly elected Presiden, he declares his open sym paths for Franco andthe fascisof Spin, snd his Fespct forthe “onporote sate of Salar of Porc flr when war bret, his admin for the “new Eden” the “arong bloed” ofthe Ax TG team was co have ended in 1938. The demo- crate movement of Braz, meantime, kas shown the clase wife progres toward dmregration. In Are ts] ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL eatin aleady in 193 Ligoyen is thrown out by a fee of Generis big asowses, tn Bare ed As, the proce mature: Flier ha come to power and the igincere democracies, inlading or xt, ee eho tim grow fr. Our ety ean a tral Japans Navy. Inthe forthcoming Prides Gal cletions of Dedenber iggy, the coaesion af Bra’ democracy made males, by the appesr auc of to dcr andes by the fea of ret! lage group to soppore ec one sad by is faire (he has bee sad ag Marsan fn Mancow) to pt forth ssiactorysalctare ‘Vargas, hrough bs Lieutenant, General Goes Montero, hss published eran mace cled “the Gakn cers” it “fore eonsuni poe 1s hs pretext for declaring the cousty fa Pitas (ry fe cele ey ia hice, Vegas Palate sense fa sullage, ses up the Bsado Novo: Ta Incegelts rebel, Suavely, Vangus sends he Bese ian audllo 9 Litho ino eae His new consi tion modeled alter Ialys snd Pongal’ coporte Syaem The ans ae teed Oran ene Uhder the Ppt. lasesd of Governors chota by the Perl toy sow ave nent, ned by Var yin tu nan the musical mayors Labor Scconaland” which mean thatthe wovken eae toe suk and have tei leads chose for shen fa Guana Place ‘A pracy picture... Is i fascsn? Soc are ty thoughts {pass through the char ing patio ofthe Palaces swat sinning i he ool, Pu fenging iy andthe pure Clase fade fot flls with the Chancellor Osvaldo Arse; and wih tis Inpressve Under Miniser, Mano’ Nabuca” "ewe my end vio Br Nico aged oaSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY Fascism is a new disease, Dicatorship is older than ‘America Hlspana, Under discussions of fascism, I sus- pect, a much maddlehead ‘thinking has been con- Realcd. as under discussions of communism or democ- ‘ey, Delay judgment. Stady the people. “The contnoousIuncheons, interviews dinners: all of them are revealing, some of them I should report For instance, {hunch with Nabuco and Polo Bavea- out, proprietor of the staid Corrio de Manbé, the ‘tow ite of Rio's papers. We sein he Engh ooking bar of 2a uptown hotel; Nabuco has seen to i that there aren other guest inthe room. Be- fore lunch cheve ae cocks and wises-andsoda “Then a huge carafe of black porer i se on the tbl Bicencours handsome, igh, dl, soles his Bish pipe toon ashe may. I have been in bis mansion, Petions with modern art and wide dors opening on Sirens All bis family speaks pevicce English. Bit- Errcour docs not digs bis pasionare respect for ‘he Butch Eni. Nabuco i big beefy arstocraty Sehoseintegity fs unimpeached, whose devotions are Poregal's pase and Bras fotre. His Teutonic bald En geod toe forthe contention of Braian socio for te Olivia Viana tha the best of Porugal was redic and thar ths best emigrated to Brae. His Toure i ee pertecy, quer exemplar of colonial Brel OF che gency which was que sare of Gods bles Sg on save foundations. (Nabco's father, by the try engin Nabues, Cancels under Dem Pe Ti paved pethaps the greatest zole in the frecing of Bobi iat saves) very word of Nabuco brates Confidence in Braz forure. he ference berween ws and oor Hispanic acighbon? Te diference beween Porto, wih is bse genius, and Span. === 1a North Arwerie, al ‘THR PACE OF BRAZIL there is your country, dominant. In South Amer there will be Brazil wh pene is remarks ae fl of siniliades berween is country andthe United States I speak ofthe Bra Ite of din. He flows op es the Bitencour i lest cetin. He stacks me savage wen T renal that the Both Empire doom tea Seu becwen np and oman bb by esl des, Bena loc nt Hike the idea ofan Englsvpestng concert of ples capsized by cauancneiad wi Rinehart ag way to "Be as fore you prove yourslves the egal in enyehin often” eee is manner sms to say: “You lnow very wel, tny dear man, thie in grace, sna, the ate of lvlg, we Brule ae already far thead of you Yates well poe of spy, ate long rin, in raking a word power. Perhpy ate sof te Baa : recall my nkappines in Portugal: chs remark sie line fk unl yoo comely sop prsed, by spending x energies in workt-congue, Bar by enol aid peal uring away fom Spain toward England. Spain's brutal domineering forced this aired. Bot to explain the cause snot 0 remove the effece Tse in Herencoure and Nabuco tio phases of one deep paychology, Unconsciousy, do they regard the Brian fll of the vase north snd wen, the daly inarticulate fll of the Armaan, of ee sents of Mag Gran snd Goya the ft ia whom I ace Beals poten grees, ae the Bich Toole on ther coli hultan mater for exploitation? Gs]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY “The greatest book in Brin’ Iterstre, Or Sorts, isa pry ofthe himerlan's dark and confsed fale "The author Hsclde da Cah, wrote wth a deep ssmismy he was convinced that the mitre. of oy European Africa, Indian, had freed Sn an eon tere sna othe mopeds Source: Like the undet-darknes ithe sa of even the fairs Brian one ely to id i Binmas ina Gina, len seg of doom eo 2 esece at aur lncheon table, in the Anglopian EF Direncours inthe bumpeioes Brain confidence ONO eatin eae hu going co kecp on asking questions, pchaps by che end of my jourey, the poo ones wl ave erape- tated the goo! one wil ave anwered theneles, ‘My ind jamps tothe workshop and walls of si Porta ended prince offing Brel fm priners Ciodida i's Tle man from the sate of Go Plo, and be tlk ike his Tstan pease rent whoee deep porite be has painted” A see Ennabie litle man, about five fet high, with angle of tension between his eyes, his nose and hig iow, thar T have sen only nuthenie men of genie. The mas ofthe head maybe sal where this {Eiion ents generster an stom energy thet restive and tremendows. And the work of Porinan SS tuemendoos Except for Plemso, cher ives no v= too ofthe bros tee shi equal “The eeeluton of Portia in a way has been the conta of Pwo, who is ae 9 ach fap too. mach, The Spaniard fom Mags, se Ext coord in his cit, arclate vac, Ved fo Pat created an “iteration” are whose Anda fdan-Arsbesgoe forme were not ve, excep (0 sh profiad ey bef Guermi psd Por bb6 THE FACE OF BRAzH. tina, of 2 race sil unformed and inatiul schooled inthe “international” art of Paris com? scious seks the oo of his peopl. And find them, Predominanly, inthe conebar colors thythne fsergy-forny of Bris Negro and mesize! Tht Porat of rian blood, wih no drop of Asean doesnot coat. He and his eae Deelin* ‘Not all Beran agree withthe Nabucos and Bie tenconrs, the pesimatie da Canhas, cera not ‘with the Viana, who are cosapted by Naa acl doctin Mer like Ponts, Cout, Vinicin de Mo- fy Fyre (me ap aot Nato) cot Fbonte my vaio of a Great Bel whose symbas Wl be the wo dak vers: Amazon and So an. have cabled to Buenos Aire, postponed my com- ing a were More I cannoe do’ And now, at lee 7 fave a free day for Gabiea in Ptropoic Ske snd Gi er crea cone down och climb up together on te od, sy Leopolding railway, remiiseet of the le days of Barts em pire when these carved-wood caiages, this piping NC USLssytien [now the grant North Beit waeof “hte following ate te fil parang’ of rcs acon to Basal econs ef 8p and tSenthe hfe wich toa opel ae coe omg fers ta a White inde many qi of ted alight campeon, Neg Year Whiter % Negro % Indien % Mite % 1 Beaty We eB “This fondamanal difewace beoneen the ear soley of the [Bt Nowh Ameena ean an thor of Spin ad Poop rust not be foporen the Torte cx ineoepae ak thet mes; te Tater come sims etinly wiht Sus blSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY lite locomotive (both plated Made in London) most fe eo ee Pecopolis decayed inperil town, summer fe- sore of Dom Pedra, overwhelmed and gloied by erdare, Green invader the seat, te ervices Be Tween the cobblestones, covers the water of the cal “On the way to her house, Gabriel pints out the prety vila where Stefan Zweig and bs young wife Fok thir ves: have never gieen mich cought © ‘Dacig. whom T dil not know; nor t bis work, of Which T have read lide have aways poe him fn a has of writes who are not artis, Gabel says Tan Sveong about Zweig. She names two of ‘his books Which she says are good: Anat and Fouguet.T do hot know them “Gabvla is sae thee decision to die came suddenly. nig few Sieber hy ere ong as for the fare “You came int them” she tls me, “They were excied wien they heard you were comings you were Fan Zweig faventeAnmcean shor, When Tad them you were to pend two wes with me, the Irsuel that T mse share you with tem. One We in my howse one in ther” Glorta thiks they received a noccreal ve fom 2 Get ges che Ze popes ek the PAST look out for the height of Gabriel’ vila ‘pon the ininenseTamulan valley, down to dant ‘lo and the ser the mounting an she aly andthe wast rocks uafoing ike the pecs of connie Mowe, Tran reconstruct fe posible ease for Zve’s deat ‘weg was a sensiive man, sod tied. Did he Took {pont glory, and find eas ouside hin? Gnd that G8) THE FACE OF BRAZIL fed dead ch el wate. ante on i cal te ane on ie mat tof te oh of hen he nines ot ins ieee cen eas oe a day, let me die also. aa Eiger ei nicgntt cage eg ety npg me pie otoican fem ie Spatey ee teres See OPAL, we gf ee oie Somers pam ie fom ed the living, all of us, are guilty. i faerie verre op Baa es + weg Monday, again in Rio, Minister Temostacles Gi Armia ete ol me ht Bra ines me fo tim; [shal go where T wih the map i epet AndT Shull give chiee more lerres: two it Rion in Sto Paolo: We make tensive plas: Mato Grow, Bae, Pemambueo,the Amazon snd the Seri. Tell Gags Arana how deeply T'wish to rue If my engages ‘ents and tine peri. I shales hin know, bere leave Argenting Here's an archetypical day of Rio. .- Loncheon at the: Jockey Club, given for me by Oswaldo Aranha. (I do not give a portrait of Araaka ‘until all my impressions are recorded of an individual extraordinarily complex, revelatory of much of our dey, of she Sue of polis, and of Bail) | find myself at a huge round table, gay with flowers and botees, wreathed round by about thirty men. They bo}SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY arene Te Fn Mie, esi lo selon Te Face Md Hoc nid ue of fet Bee FQowanem ope ped ode BoP, Ge Ene Freee edhe Fourh Estate, ponds of law, iter: il So cif anes tothe a, Brn 2 2 igor Aran ete Yond is good; the tak miscellaneous, ane * TFA Se ivoe recall how, makes a courtecis hime 1 oe el Bor TS baad Sa ee a og fr et oe ade neck ae nee Bl ly ae sar a Cal in ser om a a lenges iy "Gameens in. defense; Camoens #5 quoted ane ee ie ae oe spine Le nao Eek telon Ra eal e Le ac my a Arm mati a oe an ee dey Seo neon eS mis oh ee ca ae friee A But pd ie of Pa Er ol sie pe Tip re hee See Geri a aca are aaa 2eFense Leeg sin ee weiner nena a ate ie fet ne i Sole Se earths (ol THE FACE OF BRAZIL. Ig de Line ss so cit ec Is Coie eae eae Rd ee ae ese ae a oc Stars de Tiny appa, whe woman and opt les TE nthe aes cess eds CSS Gah SLAP St Laon a (soe gisele ate sera AEE Gell yank Bs iy f Sn Dal Ora ai, £2, CS ae sas SIS An ep te analy SESS Se, SE oe sedis slate rier nach Sat cen ted A Spariige at Aaa Les Ayer pines to weeks Rie es eee Seat Wek Ay My itor ie fern dee Oy Wak CESSES Ea ASR ee sine Tonge elo ide ove Selatan atta, SS Er ES me pa dow he pits i ah hss lg RISE EP WHS aR regi mei, is i sigh Neco Meuse ihoemurn, Twit este Or Sas ae RE lat)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY jctare, The gur- sy toa glamour beyond any motion pi 4.52 Rado chiens of Rio dresed up as citizens of fins noble gi women ike novegays, women like Tee tick dark gecfemen in plush tis. They are aiid forthe cer they ae al aca Tey SIP fal cargcas, but he eaera won't now it the Sime wont ely hi fears tse gees, Shas of pereousnes and out-of-inenes: ssf aia dark come nde ge ceibn te are gathered dark men and women, They Stent the dab dress of worker; there no, touch of eo them anda ig hey Hale ce aly they sng. When they begin, 8 t0 Sng 02 Seay gens inthis fabulos place ¢0 vi ‘Wales as pd them a fabulous prize to come tn 2 mene th ae the place, the money, are forgone Bong poses them. As one song ends anthers bora SEE ence, Soon, the pained cxioes steal nea, fang on de edge ofthe song mac, hungry, Welles BEST too, tne big playboy, cleased of his ow Shapes ya ll pee wind ening ough Ne Wales & 2 huge co-ordnared baby, enormous i acy and animal spins. He may go ehough dhe Rear fe, and come out man (his nostalgia for che tris of Tbero-Amesin speaks, well fr ia) S8 Cumuy play safe and remain a vioore, Hambly possesred) he ao Tens ‘THB PACE OF BRAZIL fncicacies tinting about emptiness and inorganic softness. Besde ig even our best Negro spiritual r- ‘eal the fae sinpiyng and diting proces of sn isn cole opon the Negro. Benin fll music 2ee an ot Neg Be. eponny ican dan and Poreagues, ae ongeicly fed ike te elemenc in a ving body. "And what a singing body! There are many folk Beaian mosis they’ tange like the chmates and the sol like the slvaes an the mucombor and fear of the ce, where the fll ive In unspeakable pore try. Tose down in etal pote the values ofthis sri, theextc mast be the poet, despa the tence ofthe folk within ths fnd where natre bat nce feree enemy and pasionate lover and where te tae were tl ceny nd ends lover: Out ‘winter isa eis pay opponeny, compared othe hor tle topic heat of Bru In the eri i lena, ‘when the sun goes, with cold; the rocks, sweling with hear shrinking. with frst every ewelve hour spi nly spined li like the macenbir, the mandaroree an Soars) Our pionety ecared the for cut the feewood, ie the home and hearths there was the vwiter enemy outside, Brn’ heat is not so ealy {sfesred. Te invades he home and overwhelng i wade the soo and betrays, Te insects and dnt BF cloadbort apd drocthy its jungle geen growin agin overnighe where it was Cleared: Ie pasion: Zanes freed ac, long lnguor, Man ean soccub forin ike the Afsean inthe Congo or the ptful Indian savage onthe Amazonian slopes of the Andes. ‘Man cam intcaely escape it (another way of ace curbing?) lite the Hind fait This mse of Beal promise 2 diferent Kind of aswer: confrontation, Ennfiguation "The secre ofthis musi’ greatness (at ts best): telSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY ‘wha place tina higher ls shana baa fo Soll et a od ha poe of sensment oF sms of the oe ie the verde cxpresion of Sa oh estat he Brean el sare roma velgd ofan soa ie hs 2 yo these conscios clement nthe Behe word are mere pete), Te msi [= ass (he woe al and (added emotional o- ese of race, becomes pre see FFD. Gf pa ny fe be Whe Ce ee spose Se mo ps ni sabe concise hast 2 acum ad smb ea ey veal te tio ofS lal Sio Paulo Deniant onthe hil the cy: huge, chaotic bile ingy many of rey etic. Balow, te Bran te low Iylg india town: fates and homes of fat ‘workers The diference berween the to “lied” Prlgoane. "The eenrel avenues of Beware sordid Eine, nok, shoddy, Ike pars of Chicago, bt ch fs eofer entigy witch it tbe difference pectaps be fveen our acto pare and the So Pano ella ‘Off he main zeus of Bex, between then andthe Factory there are tender snes humany.greeo— any with tre Planes indo, bes poor ind tuperical, Bris verdure wing even in Braz ‘As apres of capitan lke the owns of the ca fron Toects to Patagonia, So Palos fale But she sqoarey churches humble hoses expecially the low, walled dwellings of the side sce glow. Never dark ke Ris le culince than the Nite faocus populates would eaggea Few Negroes in Bren Beis Beaiian, in the bourgeois chy, too. The new avennes eit crs with var patiwaysof pal, modern sr turesa contrapuntal music of power suffsed (un- He our indus town: ClevelindsPisburgh) with Tight At one, these imperial seats (Brari'spotental powers ped) fll sway ino sofe ld stent frag Irena of pt, churches Ta SEo Bento, Lang do Cte Rus Dirks, where no vehicles are alowed of afer noon the bourgact throng. Dsetonles. Cut of from the werkes, who are poor and spies, and tas] | | | | |SOUTH AMBRICAN JOURNEY sho dieetinles atthe moment: for they have lot dignity of independence. Pee fads uch “incl end ae the fein Sp Pel. Twill hae noe of Tad Tam peje again us hgnbrow begenony of Satin none pad, the on SRaywaye since Ladmie [may be Wren Ot cna ee i Pi era oe es 8 ce stoce Whe ete bor, Se cmely ip scoring endl of ing fhe sae econly igh aceding SESS Late la Ss Pad enw Federer higher thn iceP igloo te forgepe sates ote a Union ty} Minas Geraes fall che twenty stats of Brazil, Minas Gerses is the mos blesed, the mom Brailan. Ie hs cretye thing.” "The map reveals symbolic place. Sio Ped Which is eemperate mountain and plateau Ro de Jenczo which is coms, wolani, top, dark Espo Santo which smal Rig Jani Baia ich is Poregal, Aftice, music, jngie and terior Goya Which is leaker desert and more crble jungle dp Of Mato Grosso—immensty of horton, iatesky & diamonds: these sete, surounding ie wholly, form a matric for the jewel of Minas Getses. No seats poplation is more wiforly fase into Brazilian. The 1890 censos (the le which took note of races) gave Minas 30% predominantly whe 0%, predominsnly Bac, 67 Indian and 34° mie The oustains of Minas are the highes of the land cool, and full of ion (Sfteen billion rons of it according to oficial figures). The valleys of Mins are fore tke fim and venonious sro really begins enly sve spe proach Bahia and. Goyse. ‘The sate is thaer thes Krondred seventy-five thousand square mile in soe, Jes than a third of Amazonas les than half of Pasko Maco Groso. Veit has more cies and townships that any sate of Bri, In miners is sipreses io manganese, is gol, es mountain of eompacehemate with more thin 65% ‘ton, Ie i the comer of the country’s se! mills. Yet, for ll his instal welts is farm and lvesocle prodacts are even richer In agricul wcond to io Pal, the ose ‘ofthe world In livestock, it second to Roa Grands alSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY do Sul, the sal papa state (rger than Urguay) Corton, eof ste, bananas, are song is produc. fen 2 inde" rubber. A. good deat ef sugar, and THanioc tobacco, comm, among the best of tHe Re- public Tn to beauty ofits fll, i beered by no ste and by no fol inthe wool. To Minss came che most Bosc ofthe Negro acs the Jolofe, the Seren Iovely asthe Egyptians, the Plats and Aston, who ‘wore fequently ihre clrred and Here than hee Smet Ad cial ve, Oo Prey Co las do Campo, Subar, ety rolled » lito, the Eisard ton of a aave woman, 4 man named Antonio Franco Lisbon, known a¢ O-Alnjadinhot because he was alpen, he work of whose sorted hands makes Rin in my judgment the greater plas srs ofthe Hemisphere ines the pre-conques esr of Messe, Cental America snd the Andes “The overpe deep mountain cons, where © Ali jadi nnd ts sacs and his charches ar ll close qrthe sates modem capita Bello Horizonte. The Plane gets us thece quite early in the morning. (On ARs journey, am stcumpaned in the post of Sx- easy, by young hsorsn who works wih Arana ince leamaceys Seg Correa da Ct, author of « Biography of Bom Bedeo IL) leave hin andthe re Pes tee hoe and meer the modern cy “Tiss the fie wlly modern tow of Dra that ese cold ech me ch hte oe tional eae of the people Tea good own, og nally planed ‘he ata pee eh the, Bt Fectngls, but diagonally with pero squares ning Fp palit and broad avecn sls palmline, catching the sre up into istic, The Roose reveal more * Aliant ite afin dime of sede; means sh ie THB FACE OF BRAZIL fancasy and soda han tse. Many have thar eopie exubefance inline sad hue which sso painful aac tecture Some have dignity few beauty, Within this ‘oder setng wal the fll, mid and save, witht the rigor of the mop, the Midi of Sao Pal, ive Ped re if holds sows frm of gol, of Alejadinho’s glory, sealing by poor roads ref wih hema te ante mounty of re One lore endler ses, ing and aling sh the undulane viley between the mountain wall The fal hee ae sw agwn, len with an nian fy ee smote from the mda class who loud Latin detion- Seatvene I remarked atthe sports, Ase entered 2 town, beyond a church of the wenle Dom Joio V syle borrowed fom Portage saw # Bop and I reine of pens and monks tradge up the hill to 4 row of onesory dwsing, We pay him our 1 spect. He ia swary, gentle, vigtows sweet ma, petra vi Heli no ois de and dh universal Church, and they go well ogee {here i oom in them both for mikey and sine for fhe joy of sore svacon. Ff of the Bishop's fol lowarv are dais the monks have black bears that overwhelm thir Band eyes ‘At the other end of town is an open hearth sel sill with foundries rolingplant: literally in the ingle The eres ean woe vale wat he fooler sir of ootdcom perpetually plajs and the yer the puddesit em the peteceae cel * £2 groves of pa, bamboo, live oak. Hlow diferent foo the opet hese of Pesburghy where the walls shoe in the grest hes, shot out the gest cold of Winter and che ard, mean et, alway “There s more Negro in these works than inthe north, From which finer tha the Indian temper of Belém i Tes elie than I'd thought, and more laa)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY ws ert ri nae Shbainren tare Seah ensehoe Sees ee ei mooning, andthe stars golden shawl upon Brails He Shei pale and Aces under her dark dn. ler SGenty ofthe buble: Chri and ofthe ath, This Ssiny sense of my Srse days in Minss. Eareh rules its woteee Why is the difference so great between the «x= ploited Negro of Brazil and the exploited Negro of the * Since wtng the above, I od thi coxrcborting passage ia ecg Jy Gobo: Hor ths autor i dsabing ie rere, {ie halted Portoguse end Inn th ile Ata) of Bei Baki, What he decane, fe would em, 8 plea float Hi wed SHE e pemanensy Ged meh its ivi indeonce secedin ie masala stoic, JrbE abe pec okbted guru, n helena wake ad EJ scien miner (eng) in hs conse prone Engrs Genel end 'ence, Novel, hs appears of ier dnepon Suddely, surpingy spe, Tat Te $252 SERS GS peo ad oe od eae co eS og helen Sar ye heme Seep nd Hens Tie ite treo cacbge he fa rehaaon, of hi ge Sears From te vega eoateance of the sleay covet Sarg fos wp ie meterook ofa aggresive Tian, sae pesely rong, 20 se {s0] THE FACE OF BRAZIL United States? Because the later have known lust and agreed of their masters; che former, lust and greed no Tess, but tenderness also, “Tis origin Be Hg xy ogi ie AS SPenkus Rep yem Se aaa SL Gos acl naa ae eat ella pe ey ee Tieyoace io a sar SE wan ea pete een Banal ele ee serenade ee ee Sha take Sata si see eee be aed it ete oho ee nee eave SSE ya Me cat SS ear Sate pa Se Rosie fas ei as oe EOS ts WT SSS SRST Ee pati Sat SU alain es Tt a eg ne: dew esse a een ee ee Sa le ren a or reno yes meni lees Aig Bs ere SEC ate Sete er pa ee EO RERES ONC ao aes Tas Tag sce ae fag gh eh ach He ess fe rm a ea eae acl a Se atSOUTH AuERICAN JOURNEY Iknife from the slave's breast; healed him, taught him. ‘Taught him to help and to love him. Jow begen his great work. He tied the pincel ro his raed fingers and euled, He wore hog el att hide his face, All day he labored under the rene that Iie set up within of withoue the church; and threw stones at those who pried; and under cover of the ark eraved home to is bed. He was a pasionate man; with a double passion of sgenivs and the aphrodisiac ars of Brazil. He lived Svithoat woman. God loved him; cruelly, ruthlesty, put him to work, And with the pincelthonged to the fotted stomp of his hand, with red eye flaming, he Created the Fevelation of beaury in stone, in wood, in ‘church unt he was 83, when they took his body from, the tent and laid i in holy ground.® “Alejadinho' sculptures, principally in Congonhas 46 Campo and Ouzo Preto, are rebellion against the shallow are of the Mecropols, against the hallow ma ters of State and Church, From this ebelious bas, 28 Dante from his Infor, e const is pant ‘world, his Mystery of acceptance. His are Tard secing flames of mens The group of solders ‘torturing Jesus in Os Passos of the Via Crocs are the ‘cas, anial-sweet, lowering earth; and Jesus the fenderness of strength, earth's ultimate lower that transcends earth, His churches: Sio Francisco and Carmen in Ouro Preto, Sio Francisco in Sio Joo GT Rei, are transfigueations of Portugal's melodious Stone into a clumaier, earthier, more spiritual beauty. Again, from strength, tenderes;, from intricate owes simple tenderness. All the work of this tragic 1p yr wre nati He wa compere nd ihe toc af Tenens, Hil fscunor ofthe movenan frie pendence Isl ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL ‘man, like the work of his hard taskmaster, Jesus, is tenderness: the final power, the final magie, 1am to find ie inthe flesh, in Bello Horizonte « Alone, I wander troop the town. The poor di wes igh wns of hp ec wie huss ot even stoves in them, but braver) perched on Sorel eat Gay rele chien rely pe women. The poorer Negroes are owect, There is tenderness her. fn the north, ls the Indian element Bae tener orth rae ope nthe mtn sree, the young people tor and lok seme; the papers have published teal good ies rss, There is wis longing in tei faces “Tired, [sup in a café; son Tam talking with the amen athe net ele. They area dent, jourale (Chee tines in prison) and an. aise, They speae gpenly analy of the wana cdo in Ba A Book by a frend: Cirino, © Mor dor Anarcitay tas jos been suppressed. "The paper ate pt In 1930, all rai believed ft Gerad Va rope owed cep fo Br 1 rAeat yor wpe “you maybe over is with as" ey laugh. The waiter emis en refs cur glass 7 ee “T done yer understand your Vargas!” Tsay: “la too, he seams to be a ta-an instacive ma-—of the people. In 1934, he gets behind a constition that $s alo Chrntan socialise Tens fe up in 193), for consti th ae fs es a grea polician, He has conte for man.” “You hal «grat politician, once, who had love for ing” ya roi. “incl fe happens Once or twice in 2 century, Leni Iretind em. ne (sa)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY We are fiends now: we wander to sneer eof “Tis one bin sel with fol plad clo ea he ice “the mae good” they tall me, bu SeSiy hese them fing eyes te upon’ de “Que marwia!” Tsay Sats noc our waluees anther gil brings ws oot dis ut the one in my eyes Sam cron the nose SPER lage room, to hea fe, She tm and sles Or couse neha sot beard ay meng ached hes bygeeie cindy a shes gio ghee, in chespera-cota foe; a mao with some nn lod ening et {eens ney Her ny ha Bet Ferry song an pester her lps not too hes. Fic whole eer gly ah vitality and Dewy, raid in dest "When at last reach my ote! fr dines, Xam fall ef tw revelation oft i 1 tel Senge soe er ‘tee coflee, wih Doster Tica and journal sisce the ctl withered pai able The gi EEE Slee busy athe end of the moked oom She fe our enone, and ses ‘ind now, srange event where but in Brazil cold pens Tne whole cafe ses fo ow Siete sabe eke ari ndlgen aetna fare The gi know ton, Sh comes sd ts wh oy eta te: She lc er same Togena Sa She fen some with her mother And do know Rober "Byte She sland Use There nding to dates if he ole cafe were wating bot to sierhow bef indie veld eo, ‘Seo poe fad myo sayin presi om the besa T Bad in her face, and precision i poetry. My ‘dade hp me on tncarng my Spensh precons tl ‘THE FACE OF BRAZIL into Portuguese. She enjoys this accepts with digi ino Poa, S jy chy esp with gy “The stetion of the café i nave, brothel, dix cect. When they seal ta Migena tn are end {hse natures king its good coune, the men Zetarn to their own tlk no eyes touch igen works ‘nl eleven, She apres, that hour, to eet me ou ie de ent Wi he sme natural ene, wif anghe insu ad happened, ake leaves our table for her doses At a few minutes of eleven, near the door of the café, T watch he men and wren row the aven; trove through the fresh evening, pat ofl all helt ves pre of and I pre of the and ofthe Balan ‘ight A man comes ou, ook aroond comes up %0 Ie I recall hin vaguely behind th bar ofthe eae "igen cousin cane for het he tel me, “Her smother sik gens ad to harry home” “Tomorrow, sooo, we are ying bac to Ri. The day afters Slay Day: Vargas wil earn from Poaos dr Gass nine forthe grest labor demonstration, nd T have buen ive oh box atthe Stadiom. 1 Shall never se liens age I wal to the hotel, il Stating the night sll shting the lesured, ripe ie of the mea and'women who tove ‘within iar and Substance of And now, ar plese ste guate of my awarenes bot soow" Tn'tbe moming Tawake inking of Kgens se alla ie he coain andthe mothe Ts hig mere incon, ie so many wairenes of 0 many cafe? And did she ind some eter man, after Tlf snd go ich ined ae fre The Joe ayo he could i and playa ame; nt the sorrow mothe fips Neverhele {amt nocsure1 Sade isinportane tobe sre Iss]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY asset fom eng es, es lara) Lea Se a a et sacra nein tenga othe saci a pn a eee stata gaa ae caa ee "SESS pag gn dese as ere ee rapes ee Banger one a he vee ce tml pel a oe rn wah cmd oe Ste low ron tn Foe ee i wa i of x lee 156] "TH FACE OF BRAZIL scl there. She brings fresh lle cups and we drink tote lok gti She cara alvaye. And er beauty is so inefably ad eal my choaghes ae teu Sorfow has mother this lovelies ofthe din Bik ofthe aden roof he fre one fod fie: her inpeceable harmony i joy, playful Jou, and ber denny ssorow "Thnee races suffer in her esoay: wo of chem — Negro and Indan—exploted, and the thd, the raster mace, even more teribly exploited by is will ‘All my sense toward the girl, all my need, is tender- nes hove great edi ondertanding. “The doors pen into the bedroom, nade fesh for gz Bo Tis Lame no moe: al ee, lecng any eyes take, and my eyes bestow, in sence, ne ne "roman of the good eyes as lefeus), liens eyes are im ine. She ges, an walls iat the bedroom. oteae IslMay Day in Rio ew ee a iggy ee eg! tame. api Coes cry mes Pr ofa be ee Ga Bh Brobigsasenet ek ofr of te Ary. Soy prea Kee aoe ea ES TL Be cnt, red eke te, Uno sg cr red ae scapes baie Mapes Ieee Ste Sgro ses erg pty, he bn pl maa ore ey fe ty oe oe et acme! Ten Th oe Deen topcc pepna” an ove bd wtopeny Thm tenant oe aay ST ee Tak ae png ot ne ese See, Gre bee se ate Dae Hier of eB ey ee ree ets Yonge Ge Mees Oat oer ae melee pie Senne es ee nies eee oy eats cher ave Se eee ah? oe ee ea ease ee wil te rer ero in SOUTH AuERICAN JOURNEY is far mulatto with fae extsodinaly and and aealy cruel he kindof face tar cool utr Bone ‘dictions me a aaa : has, taany tines ‘The Miniter of Agricul, Apoloio Sy ea tore say» yuan young nak whose honey ee de ts toe Pops iF he say in polities hel lose i Salgado Fh, Mla: ‘er of Aviston, abo here and’my od saan, Marcondes iho, Miniwer of Labor, wh his been a such psig to show me tht he dys of those old tonbacks, Rouseany Moorsquics, Jecon, Mars, Gtaly are over "We are doing the job.” ‘Whar fthe meaning of ochre aginst the back pean of dep ah el» flew Bao ‘They mean that this fle has no plies! expresion, thac it incapable ss yee of aiulting fw organic ween ge hon pba Ine van xing between the foll-snd the resin of poli eos nd is io ie essa Sv with adage othe shew et los the readies porveyor of a semblance Forder”These men inthe Presidential box are not acide. ‘They te indent,» universal pe, pro: ‘ced ino power by any people wo, beste of the omplesity and imattity of es forces, express plency and 5 palicaly not ts wisdom Bos poten. Geralio’ Varges docs noc ave, Lourval Fontes Teas to me aga and whisper that hasbeen ure but ne sro. Marcondes ges on his et and rade the President's ares, while the hug crowd oncom {orably sti. Then the procesion begins: A more de. eng speci have sidan ser. Grp of Workers ofall Kinds pas sound the grese arena and before the Presidential bor dip thes banner hich cry pores of Vargas opined satanents of (so)‘THB FACE OF BRAZIL theis personal devotion to Vargas. They hold up thé Aarsefing canvass, aif they were to0 heavy for ee 1 ind snyself recling another Labor procesin. Ie was in Mesico in Totiebn, several yer ago, ThE pessnts of La Laguna, reendy made the owners of Ter lind on which they and thelr faery ime orally, had coiled as eons vial serfs defied be- fore ther beloved chieh, Lirto Clrdenas The Prsic dent stood motionless as they pased and T, who was at his ede, could se the teats in his eyes. These men anied no faitedng banners. They fan thir new- bought tracks and tractors, proudly. And as they saw the man who bad given tent back their beloved eat, they lifted their faces up to him «the taieum Indians «= and cheered him. T thought these men of Mesico, oo; ha thei ong, trap eras of slence and impotence. Boliieal compe: tence i noe magi. Ieean be lead ARGENTINE CAMPAIGN The Nation and the People Arrival in Buenos Aires The Province of Buenos Aires North Tour Argentina of the Incas‘VU. THE BODY OF BRAZIL The Thick Wood ‘The Mediterranean Sea The Angry Land ‘The Leominous Land The Wil and the MindVII. THE BODY OF BRAZIL The Thick Wood (Mato Grosso) ‘Ac Conumb, fom the hgh bank ofthe Parguay, ene ay lok ord tnd tea and Weng one the conn, The own onthe ge of Maro Gra the thick wood sims the comments geographic Shen With ons tne cy the aves eee one See ve handed tals ofthe Bolivian Junge before ie fis onan ac of ppions Ty e intabted Uy pumas, jag © few teat Tadan tribes with bows and tttows; beneath the jungles is Gh Te Guarani tacked thes way throgh ete thet the arms of the nen ‘The Spud hacked thar way rough they long fer Eldorado, 10 the silver mines Sf Poon: Thro them, il sade Ie afc he cena the Bolivian any at way to mee he enemy bree inthe Gace. Beyond the fie hundted miley Sant Cre ipa chy of over forty thooand mostly Gunns ¢ Baan ely Wit 8 Puspunyan population sprees ate unpaved; but the Jow-portisoed owes with toodanved columns and beboner of Kon have goce The whites havea raced buy, never in aby tn have sen rote lovey Womens Sepping ike queewabrays in pare—shvogh the dist of mad of the gotters. The Indians bring into the cry ey ares tro dark words wo and Iesioge” Avoniversiy of two bored sad fy agen looks fa ot ito the wor ron within Ue Gal widerns of their wood nd ofthe ane tlSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY see" which has maimed their coer. Shee with hem ound them more mbered dan bev be wl ne © tn te sc dsnce, an, urine sight penpectve Er Sty Cre a ae Geran inthe hands then bse of the prone eal, ight te Serna Safespokeg, terved, they are dee Gero AR clu The, Br Blea rao pat t0 Covhiba; the. Argetina olivia Pa FES eran! fom Tecate agra Toa dos nor change is sna economy —of roe bloody arele Hm Corgbasgow com et othe Hier. A Bex sal onboat lay chur sowsrd Lada, whee Tone a ava scion and the alway worksops: BSS ick and op ile vol and mee day goes E NEARS wandered igs i are to No Cy. Bown he gep in wee sand ae don pear bons are Tnding feghr and pasengers Bound nontward for Caisbi the capital of Mato Sm snr for omen he op of Bae Ge Face tc ger ows go down o Buenas Aes, Sucks world ghere wise wl he domszat sea eel One ofthe boss cea and sar, Be ny cain tas bell ar nom, ald 3 igh “Theo on sedge of Braye frome, nx dian Reywcen werd parang of them bo feUBreh holy. am steed tod in Coron EE Bae lt elehcclos, eatcatong nm iB chp dan Minas Ges or ul Bh wesern Pies nines gto Gros Coyst, Azone, SGM oP them more huge han ‘Texas ate che homes Pda perhaps muse sypaly Brain: even a ce res odes Me peeps mom peal oes rs a Gramo was eld by te fae Bencaces of Sio Pc. These were walk bands tl ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIT of te cxboclos or mamiocos (menizos of oreaguese sl Ind) hn the eet eary ered tres and north, hunting gold eapeoring saves Tht Uferenos from oar ploneer include the dierence ‘of an enormously more dieu tran. Here ar thet descendants in Corumbi, typical west Breal towne [Negro in color and eath-2se, Indian in sabre, non Inlesul sn, Conca ia hl vcr CGerainly noe African, not Indian, and not Earope they are the new race of Brazil rc “Fre town next, dull, md—despie the and the mosuitoes-healny. (There are plemy of Trosquitoes, I wrte his inthe dining room of abourde ing house above the River Paraguay. Every window, cerery door i shut again mon eens have hot reached this continent; yet the table alive with insects, the sir hums with them, the naked elecic bhlb © Black with their swarming. ‘When T awoke this moming, a spider af lange a¢ two silver dlls Sond on he wal oe shove ny ule, Whey Shook my slippers before pacing them on, another spider fell out. Always ‘cumine, your shoes in the Topics they are a favote tying place for scare pie Tecra ath cen ie an espoors "The level of living is far higher than in Bolivian sam clegation Of the town's leeder inclading the Mayor, the newspaper élior and the Pore Authority, tome to see mer and afford me 4 chance t0 thar shred and gut dapttion cle and say suffused withthe destiny of power, Thee provinc lack the nervousnes of so many feaders in Rio and Sio Palo, who have nbibed fale race dotrnes fom Count Gener andthe Germans, They take me t0 2 festa in the publi ear: Tee the marching chile [85]Peer SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY dren of Corumbi—thousands: the git in spinglive Be Sir een wth we shor he ae trying hard tobe a solemn the uiforms A pias Rorangues them, illing exlovely ofthe Republi Fouldesly, under the tirstion of malay’ band they ing the completed nainal andiem. ‘They are ne hey eS In every shop in every café ofthe own. hangs 4 picture (tall 2 poor one) of Peden Varga. ast, north and south from where 1 sand, Hes Brarl OF fscmore han three and a quarter milion square miles to milion are forest. The rex i mos 2 jingle of water, undolane pra, the horned woods of the angry sero, "We are am archipelago.” Os Waldo Azza sid to me: tiny sands of man, he twin he gen fre aA go ahr fora mere sateanan, it omis an esental point, ‘ands ofan archipelago, one piceoes sharply disince from the sea, a8 earth from wate. The gen 53 of Brac not lone sufuss the sland habration, the villages and towns; it che flesh and substance of frery man and woman, Brazil i Fores. "To undemtand the Brazilian, think of che eee. The tree i deep in the eatth Teil nor move ut 9 fay withthe wind and rain and co aspite sunward, “Thinof the ve, not alone, bur infinelyseroonded by the other tres ofthe forest. Te stands submissive thd ye fighting i stands crowded and yer won Atouay independent, with ike own Toot, wich eran nd leaf, with ts own endfse mrad march. What ith clr ofthe! et ick ie row Ike its bole, green like is laf pied Hike ie Blooms? Is all of thew? And where b fs soul Inthe dark Team wheres roots cling? In he bloe and golden "Thc eo evry tom evry le fh on ‘seal ‘THE poDY OF Razit ete ote ioe e aes i omrtinranret ae Becomes an animal, all puna and bai wollOr ee Soaemran eee ae of machines scence an radooain knowledge yet is eea eee from its way, which fave been dane the world ee Proper pdeoet ie [87]SourH AMERICAN JOURNEY peculiar crowding of the merchandit: rich or poor plentiful or scare, from cloth to canned foods, it obeys a strange individuals and cumolative logic of sarrangement-a for logie ws ofthe undetbrush and the shrubs sad the two Follow ths woman oo of the store Inthe street she meets another womans she shifts het shopping basket on her hip, and they calle ‘Their voices murmurous a leaves in tof wind, thelr yey shadowy th nds whee arin the individual rouching-end accepting its lose nelgh- borin tue «for ture The seg of he Brazilian isthe strength of the soted slow-growing tree The strength of Bail has been the onic parenly mindless march of the grett Forest DDo not ride the metaphor to dexth, Le it unoberae sively go with os. Ths hiony of ru colton i ae lependence, is bloodes gradual fe of the Negror is easful sft from Empize to Re publio-has been amazingly distinct {roan the proc- fsses of Spanish America and the United States The firse thought that comes, is that this history unlike the others of our hemisphere—bas been uahercie, The Portuguese were setlers racer than conquista- lores; ined the ise exploits in the and such asthe Penetration of the Amazon and the voyage from the Andes down the river to the sea, were performed by Spaniards. "The Porwyuese, wih pleary of Jews among them, spread out slong the cea and tied to make money With sugar and tobacco. For a hundred Pemp hgRovker country wat more inreesed in fur richer Fast Indian posesions. Then, in the fer,” gold and diamonds were discovered; Portugal grew warmer 1388) THE BODY OF BRAZIL Came the century of the bandeianes; andthe news thac sopar, delicacy to sweeten the tbles of all Europe, was more remimerstve than gold. The ine dians drafted to work the cane, made poor saves Wit eh sive ald of he Beh (che grees sve dealers always), Negroes were browgit acros the farow sea om Alscs The Portgute cme whe fit women; they took fadlans and African for ther ids, When the Ohorch told chem they should mary, they made wives ofthe ciléren of those fist gaily, but bleed unions: the charming cabocas and mt? lees. Sugar boomed. The nomen sas grew Heh, Bahia became the eapal of 3 planttion world far richer then our owa South, But fs greaee-weath wast lack of stain betweon the nets > “There were sporadic lave rebelions and insur sect si eee sy Shei een we {tp temporary “republics” called ombor che final or serio They were ted ually by Back Moti iclctal fel ersten ofthe cies On the big eae, there was peace: tendemess and or fanic feneconing benween the cnr grande of the fraser and the senzals of the wera Comparative Isek of strain was the cofcent of the diference from ot ova dave South, We os bred veith the Negreses, bor foght the pasion sa ote zed i children. Hence fear, whith ithe fra of Se dof a ge ear marked the growth of our world, fea of df= ferent kinds, north snd sooth, Want of fear arte the grow, theoigh the frst three century, of Braff mised populcon, Everybody tok ie tasy ‘There was food for every child; there was at leat ‘one woman for every man. Of course, there was theft there was eruel exploitation, there wes murder; these at times are natural expressions. There was no rape; [9]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY simos no ease of is known in Beal's ory. And fs etltionry es spread theagh he Apert From France aed agian the sot fe Ba wat fore onthe ies tenon she serolion Abe Felon et one iwc Trades af Nise Eesti fe ad eth ave sation ok Shs and Pernamboc, wee ot sro Te noth out caons pails wel te ehe Roch a tee Brack grapes den Buc Bast ys see aleadp ube by Becta When tay wert hel oor of Pemepbacs an Pak oat ay at Tr the border fs fora: bck iy tan Nek whee Gulf Dock or eae api ea Tout aioe the Soperos onan ene Ta ts slow way che human fore spread wes; ly fon Sip Bae and Mint Geach foe tho near wes fllyed he prow fees Sn Rees Shee aotardstng the Sao” ies bene Se oma of case The eeiee ended he pei ioe rae afi Dae Rint Puuay whe @e Gurls ad then cleat up the Amézon, where the Spaniard on the Andes bll the. The soon, lng Sead pet ig ern gpm Reclama” “Tre were ene skirmies,of cue wth In diam with Dutch Een nal’ Space" ey Sere coche cyough tne he abe war Bers Snrcsncn and diplomat, nor fe sole, somped het Errfiang boundaries their chief weapon, Hot the worl Boe se law aft pone, “ttc uh Ao serrate Rea pate ee ae Sw a tat tm Bich gi teeta cle mime st ep meen Rehr oT or oat ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL The independence and the survival of Brazil as cone nation instead ofthe twenty of Spain's American Colonies, were the isu also of blind: organic ove= iment. ‘The rationalise might calle chee or te Abily eo take advantage of chance; the Vane might call good hard busines sense "Napoleon invaded Spin. Portugal’ king say what vss coming and made a deat wit the Bitch. On November 30, 1808, the day" the French. under Marshal Jonoe matched into Lisbon, the king, fis court and fifteen thousand infental Portuguese, sailed over che horizon headed for Brevi The terms OF the barpuin were Brith fre trade and exclosive inatkets with Beal, and in return the Beth vesels ‘hich bore he king and fis crowed westward. "The Branlian provioces, he four thousand sles of coast from Patt to Rio Grande do Sal, and the thousand miles of forse weet to Mato Gross ha had litle more communication with one. another than Spaia's colonies from Mexico. to Argentina, The crown Had held Spain's colonics together. Ae the ‘moment of daineegration, with the king gone and Népoleon in Madeid, they fll resiibly sparc At this parallel moment in Bra, the king was there— Fight thereto” Keep the poovince from ying funder, as they wished and & they threatened. "You may ell it Porsugal’ pola. genius fer daughter Bry ss beeficary, Whee wil you call thst... ‘The second and third reasons Why Spain's colonies became separate nations were that they had developed deep and strong individual nar Sal ives and that they had Become, in ther ab- sorption of French, British and American liberalism, far oo modem to tolerate anew monarchy in lea of the old’ one. Branly vast province were les fntl- leetually advanced (they sil are); che cltaral fe 51]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY of each was les indvidealized, far more amorphous ‘Therefore, with the old king, Don Joao, i thet id, the litle republican and separatist movements fom Pari to Rio Grande do Sal were snafed out ike candles; the monarchy west on, From 1608 to 1821, while Spin’ colonies Hed with revolution, Brazil prospered: Brisa handled her export and her imports Earope became used to sugar anil tobacco. And the litle eaboclos and eafisos* in the Beslan hinterland gor used to Bizmingham shins and Manchester ginghams. Then, withthe same ese (Bsican having swept Napoleon into the ocean), the ld King sailed back co Portage (clearing out the Brann treasury ofall ts gold), and is sn, Dom Pedro, remained as Emperor of the Brain, acy Seapine: el concn fa ¢ fragmenting of Spain's farsng Empire owe hee unity (4) to the good chance of Portals ong saris fom Naples ste te eG) tans supply of ships in exchange for a market an (@) to the buekwardney in modern teas and fader pendence, of the Bravlian provinces, “The sume growth, blind, organi, fores-like, solved the problem of the saves. Bra had her abolionsss at lee as early as we. Like all Braiian life, they were moderate and sated with slow advances Dut were they really low? By 1823 three-fourths of the amalaoes in the land were fee, in 1428 Braall had four hundred thousand free molatoes, one hundted and sity thousand free pretor or blacks This yas surly a avanes over te Unite Sates. Yer ilins of fees slaves kept lowing in fom Attia, chiely in Br shi, In t65the lve trate-was formally abolished. But Briain kept on shipping the blacks in The cafe « mind Bol of Indian and Negro (98) ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL ieee eee fe sregyre aye me pg me fei salon de cin feo cee yer ewer Dee ee ich of he Sy caldera ce tegen bp ye sacar we fr or een for Sian ae aes coe 2m fg homer Eee ae repeal tire: Eis Mee Coa ve lag comes woply sr alles fe Nepo e dence ae SEE es es Gate eet lo ah ey, nee a rahe ya cen ih ie eaten dh ob ng sae ged of tle ptr cme el Sic Sanat ne ae ee sede in the abolition movemeit,togethet with each See bean orp ne each es Foro Bs ang eg ri of eo, Pen 1853 the sate of Ceark emancipated all in slaves, cog seca Gat gence at aes freed their slaves in 1850.) 1885 saw a new national feed ar 0) 8 3am pel in ey ia ec spat aig fen el el soles al cabin 2 eel oe rae pon he eno fos Se L293]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY alone tea thousand slaves ee the coffer Kel of Sio Paulo nd were helped to cxcape by the plce The sate of voluntary manutison sled tas hunted thousand 2 year Men of colo if they were men of tale, not only occupied plac of ign all he profeaons hey wet iv to che palace funtion Jreone aa ady sete oo dance hte famous colored enginet, Andre Rebougs the Einpres Ap arene, Pisces be gave her hand he mee Fear. Thre wee sll saves in Berl there were tho men of coor who wer leading poe mca tngincers doctor, setsnen and pes. Ia 1658 sehen he slaves were red by a ofthe Nadal Howe, only ak hundrsd thoosiodrenaine? in he whole and "This wat ney a generation late than the fresn of oor saves. Bra with slow, organi proces ad ec te mest ackard coun to sbolsh sense Bor she proces cow ao blondreased no fee tee Sonal eonflr or seeatmens "The bi ave men of Baha grombledy and toa ter revenge by pemiting the Empire, which fad encouraged seu, to fe Into the new Republi. Bu the tboldonnsinicted no,ce like or Reconsracon on af the oor 2 "reconstrcton” from which our South has not Jot by any meas reoowerel ‘The following year, 1889, by the same blind proc 5, the nation awoke to find itself » Republic.* OF Braui’s Empire, Bartolomé Mitre, President of Ar- sgentina, founder of La Nacién, and his country’s Sig he Pesce Rees ae he yer wasn Fmce Aes she clef hs face of fae Pine Miner We yon the Bee ae ad "Vex our Higtnes™be Tepid "Fos have genie i Se Sac PF ee nce ws 94) THE BODY OF BRAZIL tet historian: 4 man, therefore, of measured Sond had sid es he only democracy in South Jmerca” Dering ts entie life-span the Empire had harbored sepuleane: Many were Masons, bt the Masons in Brasil were not hostle to the Chorch. Many were posi followers of Auguste Come. “They had thei rest a the major ete Bch, with the blesings of the Emperor rabidly" atacked the Empire In Minas Geraey here were Bify-ixrepobe Tea clab,fory-ight i So Paul, icy-ono in Rio Grande do Sel Besjamin Contant wa tele fre theo; Deodoro da Fonseca, Ruy Baboss and {he colored SimpaioFesraz and Asides Labo, were tong te lading republican polticans. You would eum thar hee agloron gralually won the people, tnd atthe peychologieal moment seule de lo rial army. That the wal revolutionary proces, Cot in Bri No the people; aot «singe group of the police or inellecelsepbican ade he Re- ble. The army didi The Bmperon sick man, ja jus reared from Pais, Princess abel al Beh Regent Her husband wat» Frenchman ofthe Home tf Orang and noc ited If Dom Pedro bad had a son lke hs fate, the fine Emperor, the Republic might not have come. The army announced to the republicans the prc dite forthe rebelion. The fepublicts were amare, ako they were daurbed, for the anmy told them that when i had done is work, ey would have to tke over. Dom Pedro erst sed hi sao and ek co sci where two yeatlaer he ded, fl of yeas and the affection of His peo Sr any ia Bru ht aay een Her body with men of color among its efcers When the Re ibe nearly eolaaed in the 1" she army fie Sted che movemene for progresive econmvcon, bos]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY et es Soh peace ere Sich vipa emma Pe Bes Pi ee SS a es Ba gee Peeien tes SRA AI a mat fe Pow pevclsha ity achat fcr titan eraser SoA Tar eG ana ee Bee hc ita er Be he tec coat tae Sea ee ed Schoen plat Sage ly barn el Skee Ma eS Sook IEEE on Pe ee eer pone ge ad te serious fara ate Silorhe nei re has Sihcincns paint ee ane Fels ante sse pichitintiearahamaanee ey Tar eee ner ae ceed spelen it Santee Seka eelle parents ROU Uae ages Ea ‘THE BODY OF BRaztt rade the country’s economic leadet‘Th havardous equilieam of the Republic foundered, The army bled, aiming with labor and the intellectuals st a ‘more progresive regime; the north, sll tadiona fefesed to swing wth the sooth, and threatened to fly off on is own inertial orb, ‘The sucess of cio Vargsin tose, and fer, may be epitomized inks own word, a he privately explained the star ation to me one afternoon over a cata cup of coffee in Gosnabara Pace “The Republic lot the unity ofthe Empire, T.was ecesury 10 fever, Boongtor feral Genweracy ould nee do {have done > How he has done i atthe price of wha evils and what dangers we sal see when we retun to Rio. ‘Again we must ot get ahead of oor sory. We are salon the west ban of the Puaguny, ooking out pon the vast, tice wood ta Si. Inte low story we observe the four centri ofan orgie power whose conte symbol isthe Rote: tn oF le sarees, an ieee growey a rootednsy, 2 ferle and dak sweets, a nelutableobeence destiny: deeper than mind and wil. We recall the sere of des inthe Braian we bave mer, leaders He Nabueo, Aria, Freyze, Lin do Reg, Bo sai and in the humble men and-womcn ofthe Seed othe ray fae Tn speaking of Brat, hasbeen necesary con- szntly o speak of the Negro, lions were Brought In‘on ave tips. Today tere sno Nogro in Bre The word not sed In tows Iie Bahia there ares few Afric: far fewer san you might thnk, forthe old folks havea way of bos ying about thet binhplace. There are plenty of Peto, backs, slog the Lisorl from Risto Recta Beyond and toSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY inland, they dwindle. Bor everywhere there are ‘pardos—browns, cabras—berween black and brown, ‘orenosdonm 0 brancor de Baba In Braz they are Al Brains, snd the eens since 1890. does not chasify the color of sking any more than our congas the color of eyes Ie safe to xy, however, that Seventy ejghty-Sve per cent of Beal has & part in the blood which cime from Africa: the gin Forest. Here in Mato Gros, there are few men and ‘women inthe sects we avo call Negro. The Tne din is far sronger sain, ‘The African seayed east ward inthe sugar fds ofthe nosh cousin he wines Sf Minas snd Bahia inthe coffee planation of Sao Paulo. ‘The bandelsnss were. themselves lrgely smamlscos of eaboclog and maried the Indians of the Fore. These Indins difer in temperament, of fours. Those of the Amarons were pacity with a few ike the Ayman, whowe ferociy Was legendary. ‘Those i the steer were more warlike. The Negros als ifered among themseves Vianna names went Seven disince African nation brooghe t Bra fom 25 far north athe Sudan and as far south a» Abo, Who dered, according to him, fom “epalsve ole fer to bessy.” Nevertheless there are basic crits {of adjerment tothe earth, of flat development in Sensing over foetal vilhwhich genenive the ‘African. And ber, in ths fm, frie tae of Maro Gros. by bod barely Asian ata tas are palpable which we aecibe ricaiy co the Afican, {pmbolly che Fores: eel vgn people of the Forest sel ‘The Mediterranean Sea ‘When the Amazon pours into the Atlanti, it bursts the sale sea asunder and for two hundred miles makes i brackish. Bue when the Tapajée, a river of a thou sand miles, streams is tensmiles-wide blue water into the Amazon, it die instantly. Aline straight os if drawn by a roler marks the end of the blue river; the Amazon—color of earth, color of blood—swallows i ‘and flows unchanged to the eas. At this miraculous meeting is Santarem, once the principal town of the Amazons. I lies on the sand- Fimmed Tapsjéz;* and one steps from the beached sloffs and the anchored ssilboats into a square cool ‘with palms. The church facade has the lightness of Portugal; bue within i « bloom of color laden as the flamboyant trees; and a black Christ of wood near the door, tender and elemental like the hand that carved him. On the palms of the square are birds; under them, on the benches, are schoolgirls, chat- tering. The stores of the town ate crowded, each a grove. Over the hills sprawl wooden hues on site Sencarem is toasted and erisp in the sweet trade wind. “The Amazon isa maze of waters with a mainstream running through them. One could sal from the Andes to the Atlantic chrough sudsidiary streams: par némiim, furos igarapes; and not once touch the main body. One eotld repeat this journey many times, in diferent taceries of lakes, inlets, canals. And all this is only the heart of the sea, fed by vase cibutary veins ‘+ Eighy miles up the sere Fod aber planation, Rl, relat bythe Bran 9 Fordandia (99)SOUTH aMeRcan JOURNEY Sesh trg ea en ts Tye an Tapaj6e, Madeira, Beni, Paris, Jaro Jusaby, Yeea. ss ee Mr Geer he sre or Sore they ees many em a en piel pete pen secre ay cae a eye Tee foot Ae ea fe Mord cee eget che iol Sera seins gg te tn eh ey ig morn Aa ee Nee alee ov ee on ois tenes ay an Ou wine, aes na dey 8 Heke ls eee ea erg! cS en Bt ce yt aoe sesh ey ee end reed he fe Hh oping gis es Fre ec te gone gp ey pa of ering tas, om, owing Sy tg fone doors cng, Beriog so pee cae om Orato ome fin ne eps er Sy fem ces nda ke ay emcee ae rs ‘THE BODY OF BRAziL monkeys. And on the wings of the mosquitoes are the lethal gems of malaria and yellow fever, ‘Notes dynam, the outward form ofthe Amszon 2s the cont flows wpm i From the sr one sees ie well the gene ives cach an individual these of shape and color, majriclly swing into the main ‘water and vanish the lle rivers between, ke dates nd vilins sharpen and sweeten the immensely more 5, yet inmate mie, it to see his world in ics dimensions one mst tot only Ay one mse also float on the waters fal the heave of them. One mst go ashore, and lave the shore an loe the veri te yin seepage of the fore. Bren the Amazons here are gay bvown ‘verdurles lands: Ess of Gurupsy before Mone Aloe {re (@ white town on the brow of afl) the forest eceles in campo gerer, pling andthe waters bee ome lakes Ar high de the aes dppea, che elds too, in the main body which spreads norward fudiovan mountains. They are tablecopped some ucts, elsharp, mae have planed thea They are the forerons ofthe Guiana, Few Negroes in this forest. The ewo states that old the Amazon sea... Pad and Amazonas, over a mile Tion and = quarter sate miles about two lon inhabisor “1 have few Negioes and those few in the towns of the coat Belém, Casanhal and Bro gens, In the fore isl ive Indians sparse, fragi foe's bids Binds and monkeys are the bes adjusted fauna. The monkeys ate of ianumerble species, rostly small. The wood has no large animal except the docile epic, whose hide i hard as mahogacy. (Only ie which swing fom eee to re or wings be tween the branches ean prosper The water el is ber)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY tester home for big bodies. There i the lots, the ‘rer oter which wa seal gone quadraped there are the praact and boro, weighing hondreds of pouncs, whith the Indias bane with Bow and arsowy there tre dolphine and countess varies of ures, The Inia hinself does noe trve, has never thrived chis word. Compared 0 his bothers bili or sub- Smal, on the tet slopes of the Andes or even £0 the Indians of che sees and of che mild Paraguay wood, the Amazon Indian i= weal, frag nervous, “tows his eyes ae ofa hunced bes, oo inteligent acu to lve aif of peperal eesping. He has crested no colre, all hi energy is sub- serged in the Bale for bare survival with a word ‘whore forioas energy offi wate, and wood i 0 Inuch for him. Compared to him, the Negro of the “Rtican foes i agree tee: quiet upon his mighty zoos and swaying in the sky witht song msi Bio inthis forest there are no Negroes. Manaus, capital of the State of Amazonas, city of ninety thousand which once had nearly two hundred thousand, les on the Rio Negro about seven miles northwest of its end ia the main stream. Before we ‘come to it, we see the immense Madeira mave i from. the southwest, bearing with it Bolivia and the River Beni, Peru ..”. Cuzco, citadel of the Incas, and the River Madze de Dios. ‘The Rio Negro seems larger than the Amazon, which, swinging off at an angle, appears to be the tributary branch, ‘This illusion btless made the Portuguese give the Amazon be- yond the Negro another name: Solimdes. Go to the inceting of the rivers in a small boat, but seurdy t0 breast the churned waters, and the error is evident. ‘The Rio Negro, lke its name, is black. When the screw of our launch stirs i, the water turns color of Loe] THE BODY OF BRAZIL rust aif ie contained iodine or irom, Tt moves in a hoge, lakes expanse, currence, black, tos toe expected death. The Amizon here i compannvely arrow, Tn ts swife pote are clumps of thy sme wth whole tees, ana spill of branches. The two Hers mee: the black agaist the cinnamon and sf fron: Ther nak of whpol waves snd he Back "us before Manaus, we pass an and. (Vinicins de Moras, he Balan poet who i my companion, and I, are the guess of the Governor of Amazonas, and ‘we ride in is Inch) Our hosts ell ws the Iegend SF the iand. Everyone who pases going wert Manaus orto the robber jules of the Upper Amar zon, leaves bis conseience behind him on the ind, From i solid fardwood maven whieh the sly consciences smolder, T sce the pals leap high; thrasing forth fino bands. What a hey and dlroos burden on the and! "The one haughty robber cai ofthe word i on 4 high bank of the Negro, suizounded by tactles forest Flee are gues which tl the cry ory: ‘Amwon rubber prodicoa in 19/5, 4000 fon, in 191% 60900 ton, tog 16,000 tony in agen Ce coaly American *elieocy” delgstons sad leary Ford), under 169000 tons Manaus ha the alot of decay. He smells of gent explain and shrinkage. Within the bot vapes of the forest ieis.a blake cold ey. The hope ae rowed withthe finery of twenty yeae ago: por Ia, jewelry, ladies wete ofthe days before ee ase Indies rvionalied the production of rer Come usiction has broken down. Few ships climb vp the ‘housand miles rom Belén er the eaesanti nes ted eo come here zig from te French pores be- Fore Rio and Buenos Aes; binging Grant Opera (oe)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY TS a ad se an epee od te elle dope Sate ee ces ne es bre ue feel lacked coffe, Hoge supplies of csseanbe (Brazil nut), the most nourishing food in the world, (Ge uy hem ig Fo the nh bricks ees ea sgn tt ion atic! gle Tee Surya hve, ae Ro Nae 2a Sena hel Rls iced sma ens oy sl ys peng Nee ele fre gen Pepe clos gt ime eg a a Shncnekcina nici Tineea line eee ee ae eae Regu Seve pen pleco sh eting he colin ay Hew shah epg massed yo ee EY re tea ye os ots WES fener a el yo ie rei ies iii igs el cree. are be dos oe ie es preg ites me ek eg ee edetdp etinek ned hgh oes gs of a Ur age a owes ce Bie of ges em ged ove seni er patos thos see ot se se eee aly ee ee + Vang changed the mane of Goreror ofthe ae 9 Ta peear there ene acpi, I tale; eter Sto Palo Iso4] ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL themes (Lfound one door of Guarnk leaves by Toca worker, which wat lovey.) The als ae cove ims of bad punting of Amazon animals and hag dd puny nog oan af wrooght iron, ligee walls and ies cling the work of an inpoted Europa a Te hens ‘which once recived the gest celeries of Pais Ts been unused for year But the shores dexper™ sly epi in condi, Te reminded me ofthe tor pe Negro one may sein Harlem: an emp face in Z'pink shire, panama hat, dismondstuddedyiow ete patent the Dots with pats adore ofp ane: Bad tates once naive and bro, it ine sing, the bls Armazon cy, eld in thelet, dea inthe Cyclon opi life The workers discs Constatnopoi ood hous one with no grice. The Mento isthe beach and the rancid rer sbove fe: cabaclos in sows anloading thet fut, their manioe and meat, barsining for. lt and the chesp rum elle caches The fle, which all caboclo (Poruguee snd fndan)s lowkeyo, languid let, gly with x stugee The cilten do ot port, do ot pay hey ar eo wenty. More than Halt have the sweled somacte of the snare ae testinal holoworm. Malta i endemie. The women are without beau. ‘The fll, the sme In Blood as Belen’ lack ie vigor malariae wore the struggle i far gener. Vins and T went to be vactinaed agai yellow fever, and sod inline withthe whole town: the humble wemen, the naked children, the ‘ores men, (The wugeons wete evi, couréous, Rygienic) “Thie are the whites and the Indian folk PEfoe equal to the Foret. Everywhere grow the tering, the tress whose ood Baber Tale ae ext through he wilderness to where they ren clue In Berra eat Sane tes]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY zen, Henry Ford as his plantation along Ease India Tine. Bo with his excepcon, te rev fe oned in ts wild home. The rubber workers ive ie of inered- ie pavation, There no food for them inthe per- cial grees hel: farina of manic, died meat fr Rio Grande do Sul, died fh if they are lucky. They are prey eo the ferocity of dea, seers, venomous fra, and the wer, dark fame of forex. The tree they he, th srngocr, hs mania grace not une ‘worthy of comparison with the grace of the forest rma alo pale loose white with creamy’ Yel ew and ochre Bs .. pastel hues». «on i Hive ‘trunk, The branches aspire upward, slender and ‘efowded. The tree has an elastic movement like the life of rubber. Mose of the tres in the Amazon forest are pale and ghostly; there is a subterranean cavern ‘ote co this crowded and malignant nature. The serin- goss, ghostly and graceful, is the queen of Ama- ‘Mangus used to be called Barra, The Manaus were an Indian rribe unusually warlike for this region, who brought their captives from the more docile tribes to Barra, where they sold them to the Portuguese 25 slaves. The city is named after the save-eling tribe ++ Well named, ‘There are no Negroes in this pallid ‘world, whos life isa perpecual lost bare against the ferocity of forest. ‘The rowbouts have come a long way up and down the rivers slender they look on the wide water. The men paddle, the women sit in the stem and bow ‘among their riches: cwifl (gourds), fruza pio (bread fruit), cacao (huge cocoa beans), bananas, perhaps the Blood’ of a few seringueiras, « litle grain of milba (Corn) and other fruits unnained by us: cum, puomé, {50} ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL sai, the savy pupunba; ad always, of course, the Imanioe root, Bred of the Brailan poo, and a oot read ce i weak in glare, Te is uiget co lave Manaus and vise the homes of these humble fol Tie, the mosquitoes are a dan- gefows scourge when the breee alls, and the pid 2 {Shy lood-stcking By, takes on at daybreak when the mosquito leaves of fat Manaus s'a cky 1 cannot lover my hae fore a dese les easly soided chan the malaria or yellow fever ‘The bate wafer all the tanaware resptce co a fart lovelies. Seek out the loveliness Go to the poor fazendar, Fine we tum down the Amazon from the Back ‘Negro, and sir a shore of bamboo, cacavers, abiae rei, lavender flowered mariana, banana tees with Teaves eighteen fee lng, and an ocestional grove of fecioguetu. We nee ot boa into the oft ad and leap shore The fzzendeiro, chosen a random, ike them alls caboclo, le wears the sweaty remnant of shir, pans that lok more lke dewers, and hoge seraw bat, Look a the face wel, beneath the ime, the wearnese and the sparse beard, you wl ad sea” Sivity; in the eyes wistful, incligent poiguance ‘We standin the shade of a wie culo tet laden ‘ih ers god inh ebaredap bst of afternoon, wah the mosques already sharpening theirewords aboutus The man's wife joins ut # worn sncestress attire, They show us che path to the pond beneath thar home. Her ives an of crocodile egy have been onabl to kil. A few months ago, it lopped off the head of ther lest born, 2 baby gi. “THE home is a bare wood barrack baie on sity with famnecis anda beater ‘Now we turn west along the Solintes or Upper ‘Amazon and then off iter one of the innumersble taibueareg the Carary. The shore. are lined with ber)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY faxends, shows every quarter-mile oles. A smaller Sream’ smothered in ‘canebre and mangrove, dawales into the Curarys and here we shal go fing ‘Night as come In the Amaronianeopie cis ha to senor coming. It has ben there al slong, ithe Back and she blood-bown water, fo the never broken shadows ofthe wood. Son has kepe ea bay one fas coming ante, Now th so nao forward Ts modion ® perpendcsst. Te sar from where iba been erobling cls othe tle earthy toon ie has conquered all the segion of tee the the sky (he eloads fe clawed by i) covered Wear be by se eco toe: We dle in'a small boxe, and they wade ou trough Se sallow water with their fine ners This i dane serous busines beeaie of the pirenbs, «sal Binal wi atc, na 8 thr mo pieces But che pranba makes, fool exing sod we wants mex of tem for brea Hoe The hing deny goer onal nigh, with the men coming and going fot Frey winks The mow. pikes take no seep ltl a may they fy aos ih waves in rad, in clouds i Eematent. The waar Kis the mud shore in endless iereourte Tid the tees walen,Bngng the sky down to thee Toot, bedded in sive, By night te heat has gone Feverbensing starvard, arcane signe Hom the jingle brates dep and melancholy sorrow. ‘Dawn and atiy moray ares tue. Nigh, che ane coemy, has gone day, the feroer enemy. hes ome, but not yet tne ie fies upon earth. The Srocé hasan ephemeral innocence of spring. The braze rey he mange mormon, crolnesy the bids of the morning leap ike light, ‘which the erecendo heat of day wl tr to fvee G08), ‘THE BODY OF BRaztt chy ome ck at eo ma Poe ica one ni ty nes Sh Siete es id wiksme ender ndh es of lig ls come ‘rarefied from the cane, are liars, : oe a rear aan net ‘monotone in them as in their world. ‘The same bare foie aa icm area ace acres een feo ation teem chet ofesreron sy alo oe ieee ser i use nl ty and of poring seg wren fot ofan cng wes bi he md nd {3091SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY to withstand skis smoldering world. They lve exac- esac, hey live Brave, they live besten: The lndian has lowered in cool lands, o in hot fnds cleaned and rece ke Yoeus by eyhnie winds The whe and red man's sip chins in this watery green farnace. ‘What they have done, che holding thee evn to the een dey have inthe Amazon proves tem ace at heroes Most iif ihe swift beauty oftheir women. The young gs ae orchids, re bind in the exraordin Seyiation of their tenoparen sffon sin over the ‘ape sl, Their chleed brass in shifts of acy crton bea a burden, in thoee Bre hammocked haze More terble chan the inmesior burden tn Kinde climates of thei mothers ‘Thelslovelina ina beet foment sings perfect but ephemeral form. Ths fhard enough to bear—this beauey bref athe cool dwn ofthe day Bor even ardor to bear i the ele le esa eed of tr men The eo fe sss won wit aloe dt noe aye remy of despairing knowisige. This hese nacre So home fot Him: Pranic Be see sccurty wee ec find ein he vaginal home, nthe womans and knowing the swift pasing of her lovelingy ‘There for halle eo gitood adn rep i od ‘wily overakes her Housing. And ether not dre lok a snaher an! The monoetaly of Nore Bra isthe deep soubsicknew and homeicke nes of the man, and isthe tendemes of the woman giving to the man his one srsy, hs one haven The Angry Land (The Sertio) “The Amazon word is too mnch water, the seo istoo te, Last of Par Bra bulges woward Aric, "The fine stat, Marnhdo, sil Amazon in sll and climate: Now comes a catasrophic change: The nor cast winds drop thie moire onthe cos and) nor fag inlnd, betome camer of drought, Pian, Car, Hb Gane do Noe Prt, arsine, lag, Sy Seip aod part of rich Baha, are semis, “They fave four rOues deed inland fom the ocean, cack with kw own ena, Fine comes the Pree, the Cont fers, excep in the dyes sates, Pa and (Gla, Next the lt woodland. which when cleared ‘demon produce Inthe Mata are the grestsgat liide of Bibs and Pernambuco. The Ma cradled the save clare of Bra and trough he geneaions formed the eee andthe body ofthe pesple. From the Mata he land sss, in some region totes thou Sed fer thi the temperate 208 the Cartinga tis vy with plo uma he ee fog to rah and vith the fine sngling act fel B fail fee for comn or coten, Back of the CCeaingy, a dines suroanding i the Seno: ane reds f chomands of square mils of fy were and somkwer, crom the mighty Sio Francisco Rive, fcros the Toctntn into the Mao of Goya, Sendo ot dere. Te ban any lad of spas sais which fa With the rains the nd lose ike ther flowers in cei regions of te Rocaes The Serio soppos great herds of eat, i grows cotton and coate substrate for coton carte ber of @ nlSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY ssford-sharp cats. Ie breeds the toughest ofall Bx aillans the serie. or sertanista, _ serto may lie withoot rain for two year and she doughs come ser ees af abuts era “The wells dey. The recy most of them thored ass their eves, The bird andthe deer, the wid bea the taps andthe poms, even the cma = Hele or tls «late the county soon the rodents have ied “The cule sand in the coral, chee black congaes hangings unl his ot their master lls them Tie doesnot eave. He cuts che pulp from the macanbira ‘tas and feds ois fay be asthe fut of the hash ioseuo; he dig she tow of cadalbre sets, the munca, for fw dop of water Tn the serio grow sbserstean trey Saree 2 graled Ineter of wood above the ground, wth blag ee be eh nd gy Hsin taut ose system i eqarmout He goes down to the ros oak fe thls war, NOt cen bop oe foes he pack a fer belongings onthe lat howe OF ‘mule and take to the toad He may go to the cot he may go south to the mines of Mine Gerasy ot noth aed we the ‘ber country. Tn Amazonas, we sav many fans nthe eroded river boats bound forthe remote gions of Acre. But sot erate the sania eters Soe day, in Fortra or in the sernga of the Parse hens cha i hat rained inthe heme covery Next day he is gone. The Brarian have ying © sertancjo anoitece, mas nio amanbece* ‘We saw the serti in drought. Swiftly we had come to it, through the three zones. The fich Praia and ‘The an of the serio spends the sight and gone inte seciog bel THE BODY OF BRAZIL oft and ci ea of eats an Cine un ht apn wih noe Sees inh aetna bur their Teaness ‘not weak and beaten as in the ae eeaa oes erence oa whe howe, with vos ted or thatched, He 2 sobry mementos bad Rest! would be tle by this genmedhexe- Ba isnot Zeeman a. Cunha in is grea book calle the sei a per- pecual winter he ha reference of cure tthe for Eibding tarrennes. Bat Tsnpct, He most Brains he kw litle abou winter Winter in our peste word i seaion of rt and of peace. "Thee ae ors of coun, bu they pas. or the mos pare, the mow sleeps gently on he Bel che grat andthe Sls of the cat pain slumbesing within The oy, balSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY leafs and lean, area peace; the bare orchards stand inorder somnamblance upon the white flan ofthe Wl “The evergreens = balsam, the proce, the ping the hemlock «bmn sold srergth against the snow Inthe great bar the eatle and the hoses take their ene i the sweet drench of the hay the ‘mare and their own warm bodes. A tne of calm ad repite i our winter hen the crt dre in ts fenders from san at communes With ia. “The serio’ mood i anger. The cacti bare thee sslero.‘The mesquite and shrub are homed fais. “The tees writhe, stumble, tench themselves under ground: tech on every Branch, anon every ea a Beedle. Gova yard through the sero; unless Jou ride ‘ored like &medicel fight there wil be blood on Your leg and onthe bres of your hore. The serio ana like the plans are ame the horned toad, the ld pceary, the wipers the hay spider. ‘The land 5 never bare never's bling mants like snow “The sn sends down ts damend lance andthe mae sod, coche cle ery sus ack ates ete gyre; the earth wih it sparse Brown pass igi sal len The roca so hos couch a ram your finger. Bat when the soa gor, so sudden ithe col, that they apis the rigid earth craks open “The sercanjo, lke his land, in many ways i differ- ‘ent from the rest of Brazil, He is predominantly Porra- fuse and Indian, wih a minor ee scant Negro Strain; but many generations without new blood have stabilized him, harmonized his type into the most homogeneous ‘of all Brazil. He is the result of two carly immigrations into the sertio. The main stream ‘yas the bandeirantes of the south, who followed the Sto Francisco River from Minas Geraes northward, fanning out through the whole sexo, The minor ba) ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL stream were the coasat Negroes, the runaways, the ‘bat te fee mulatto and the vagrant women. "The SEnanay suse eae and robbeds They fughethe Shove ware lndns of rt and remained wake "Tot day the mst Iwas prt of Dra dhe ry Lnerlnd of northern Bahia and. wesern Perpa incor the marauding was never pety. The ine fn ladvidul, perhaps wih crude diamonds inhib rom the mins of Minas Gers, was always Ec th ero, Te ves woul eh na Ingef village ora grst fend beren fami, in fu Kentucky inoutain, The main busines ofthe Serco exe breeding, The honor of the serena quero ia eric, accrding ois own conventions, the gach’. “ha ogh men ae dap snes end entre icroy talents, Their love oftheir treacherous lands Drovecbialand they ae wanderers. Their songs share ie complens meaty. fer of all Bris mose—and they make te bo of Braifs mechanic. They ae 2 dec Falls tougly individualized, and ye integral in thoes an economy oftheir eon: [A famous insoretion took, pace in the 1890's in the serio of Bahn, which sheds Tord light on the “Rntont Mendes Maciel was the member ofa sero ety ay wh for geen a eid oo bloody feud with» senao family of the vilge, He {vas an unremarkable man, unt one day his wife opel with avila constable. Shame dove Maciel fro home, For ten years he wandered fom ranch ranch over the vast et, doing od jobs which grad- Sly degenerated into nothing. He grew a bear, trove a lowe bie tunio, and became = wandering hermit (3151.SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY Ue cid not preach o proslytice. Desi himself, his fare grew! "The poor asked his advice and his words, beeswe they Were spare remote reluctant Fevealed hi oth ola mys an sss, en eneny fall women, andthe annctncer ofthe Second King- dm Hs own nate wae forgotten, Throughout tke Sertio he bene "the Counslor Antonio Cone Io. He profesed to be a Cathois, but when the ists dacourged ln, he gently drew the poor to the murkeplac and began‘o presch: Pls Semone ‘were rague porpouns of spentiou doom, hated Of authors of women and of joy, mixel with an apocalyptic vision no unlike that of the les lierte Steondeentry ghosts 'AC lathe Archbishop of Bahia took alann and compounded with the pie o arse hi. Submis: Svely Contec gave inslf up and heard hina accused in cour of having mutdered hi unfhfal wife He spoke no word in his defense: Puede the {horde eld hin Yor an invesigation, which wih fur the lest help om hsm proved is innvcence, ‘Whe he sepped out fom ji f course his fane and is flowing were vastly Lager, For yeas he sane dered through the esa buldng chvrehes Wie he came 10-2 village the populace for miles around brought wood, sone and! morary they pur up the cures he preached in once and weat hi ways ‘With him nov, wherever he went, choos fol lowed. Old women, Bestar, St only for heaven; the hala ll he mint. Alo the prosicute, te ile es gh ews amo amy mang d= adr perpetual inthe seo. Conlon hs blue Tunis and Tong Beard, now graying, pid ile atten tion to his muldrade, bue he accepted them. His tse word Brovg always the sane logubriou i Inge The wicked world nears is ens Prepare forthe (316) ‘THe sob oF Raz day of wath; Seck no joy on earth. Contempt for eth realy mas indulgence before eal fetiags. Cansei’ wes a doctine perfect for te od fe: ond ls and forthe ffl. Meanwhile, the Epc ad dsoived into the Republic “The new authorities in their fresh zeal decided to suppres the nuisance which had become a dese of therwhole sero. Wherever Conseiero's mob went 2 church was bit bur ao cate were slen coune try sores were fed, men were found dea’ the coatings, whole vlges ‘were dsmped, wi the ‘women and their aber sbandonng tat home to Soe Iow the maser. The Governor of Bahia sents dec rent ofewenty police ro arese Conch. The suf, fans who had ade themselves hs bodyguard ied half ce constables and sent the others suing. Cone selheio knew what woold come, and led fis Songe {othe green fank of = bill deep inthe serosa spot he had doubles lected lng before a his anders ing yeas where 2 shap formation of the mountains brought ruin even in droughts, The place war called Clo. ‘Soon Canados wa acy. When i fel, years late, the army counted fre thovsand tv hundred hows ‘Wood hits 'Jobe hovel watrening op and down the Yalley and the hill without sree, Bae wih 7 rest gure in which Conselbero st once went to work 0 ind his gress choreh led added another clase to his peninie dorrine: he wa agus te Repub Te, whe police had atacked hime Down wit the Republic" ‘became the watchword of tumands of sertanson sings hystericn whores gullle mothers good fol dioica by thet hard if kllers and ad “The Bishop of Bahia seat 2 Capuchin delegation. ‘TRe mater, who wat now Bom Jo Conselive Gul| SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY the fil Gand J Came, de tronksgeny, wit stepping dows frre te eat Fidos cbureh, where he ws working Hikes com ton iborer Wa the rons Rasngue hi he et the male anwer, When the mogis angered the fsinf he calmed shen, ‘The good betel men Brown sayed five dye fa Canon chen and maming handeds‘Fhen Comets toayesey the bravest kilers of the ext decd they had Sed g cogh anne tn gest oe thn ‘Cnuos lived like the Hy of the fel rather sponed hiy. The hunble fits and rach of te Rignbechood were rude for ent and es food the broom no an “anny of dfn” pan he Res Puli Gccended upon te vlages and wns bear Ing off important supplies and money. With the ao, Coelerobeageesuerls fo he che ‘Caties ike murder and ale were condoned thi hely val of tents One day a Vw fellow we brought before the maser for ing gf fourteen Constheto ed “She hae lelmedfhe fae of all ‘wom shaped ht shoulders and returned eo hi Tetons, Br ica nan iodo « Doe of ce {hae nce te sure prove, et «Woman weston canament on er bead lr a ld aly erin Sad ponsen: was pif and crcl “rhe deme a as Howered ito wat, Conseco tad pl Slane of abe fo cach, oot sn mnportant negnbng town Whi fe delivery. Word eame that the amy of Canudos was ming fo calc Te fegiteed own fates ee, raphe for preecion. hundred sles were ‘Bet ny Kas Ing eck a ean ofthe nag inped bck ote lee ept Jone "Tao uot tno bow nny burt, her oy ca Bel ‘Tile BODY OF BRAZIL sign, how many years the war went on beeween the Excered seranejo army of the mad mystic equipped ‘ith blunderbuses and lve, and the federal oop, fully armed, of the Republic. Thovsinds of soldier: wet led, and thousands of the faithful of Canudos. “The city never surendered. A fal atlery bombaed- sent brought silence. The oops went in with thei bayonets fo the runs, and found a chamel house. ‘Among the thousands of dead bovties were four liv= Jing human being, an old maa, wo younger men snd 2 child All he army, al the wornen, all the thousands ‘who had dwele in the Sve thowsaad ewo hundred Tose, lay dead, ether of gun fre or savation. Con- sctheiro ws found ona moreuary shee, n is old bloc thir, his hands creased on hi chest, hs face hore Tle decay, surounded by faded flowers ‘This sory of fanatical frenzy* is no less of Brazil than the stubborn and shrewd, peacefol winning: of half the continent; than the bloodless freeing of the slaves; than the bloodless independence from Poreugal and the easy shift from Empire ro Republic. No les of Brailehan the samba; no less than the deep yrace and joy of the couse towns; than the rot of Manaus. ‘The deyest of the states is Ceard, where the angry sertio reaches the sea. Its capital is Fortaleza. There has been drought in Ceari and the sown is full of sertancjos driven in by thine and starvation. Fortaleza isamodern city of over a hundred and fifty thousand; ts chief commerce and industry is the wax of the carnauba palm, which live only i dry soil: transplant ie to watered loam and ie will die. The town is clear and strong. The Negro is minimal, the Indien strain is scion linn she man ef Ds Ci “Os 9)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY ag ieee ee eves pit ac pate BLL Lt wae eve tae de Nem fe eee Teyana glen at Son Se ref aecan nd ee oe ge ey ec, en fom ech tee Sed an lie money. ok acapella ange ones gp wg andr fo oe Be a ea sl fi. ee fom he sed He hal eased eee eae ire, ce eo eee ee ey eet areas ati Setanta ps Sof he ps ee noe al gets ree bots hen Th ie Seng or won ie eee ee fay coh outer Ta oa Foieper ial sah 0 ams a. aig et a ae eceeeca to Darl bod an Pe ap he Rem Rete Ruse ta ete oa (201 The Luminous Land “The hard ile ofthe srtio makes the men's bodies opel and saves che women of thee beauty. Rare Inthe vilages and onthe roads the ight ofa Comey ficients oe pare of Br Every lovely woman I sw in the serio wan of dark blood. of 4 Nogres. “Thi sgncane Worsts benny is 4 norm of racial heal. No deeper proof could be fos tha only the Afian has he ee to resis che serio, without ls of biological balance. in Belém, the beauty of the eabocla‘s0 morbidly sphperl inthe Amada, dos nx peau me SR But Belém is a priveged cy. of the fe margin of the fore. ‘The Tadine of the grest shod of Mari, acros the river from Belem, Swere the moxt foreunats exktraly the mom advanced, of Bras indigenovspopaion. They were in roach with thie ret brothers northward, the Chibchas nd Seong the its of Panama with the Ques Empire of the Tness Moreover, the caboclo of Belém has Song uifosed African sin ‘Go nln fom Belem toward rows like Cathal cor Bragenga where the African clemene ib weaker Sow finda rele f nor idencclcondon of foward Ucray with thet ofthe eaboclos we vsted beyond Manass. On she way through the jong. (che road often 2 sandy path ov corduroy over swamps, with fords, not bridges, acres the shallower seams) we yas hme, hoe emp, wih glues windows he cementined oven i on the oud, and pea 4 primiive ml for grinding maioe meal The gs telSOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY vez hing arte ange carte clin 00 ‘pent by the hes copay, stan and lnguily stares ‘Our hos on ths fouraey are the young zon of the GGoveroor of Park and 2 fonctionay fren the Sate Minit of Education. The Govertor’s sn hat his fathers exqpiste coursy and entry and soll ve ty Theoharis, A ny lg ‘where we stop, he gathers the storekeeper he schea teacher, che town father abou him we here tale ‘Kod returns to the ea witha big bundle of sugar Cows ing tothe depredatons ofthe German U-best, Park hat agar shortage). The Goveroro sn i of iced Todian std white blood. The po-geter half Negro. “At two schools inthe jungle cady a handved ot snore cilden, Those wits attong Afian stun are wy Ton aero este The Bo of he inher work: # Negren. But when ve come to cabot Canal we find a sled, wa, stagnant Cy, sam smering and withou grace. The baat and exes have the forse crowing the men and women have lei ama nos Eo down the cout toward the great sugar stat yah te Rah of he ton noe Sr ad sthm Hi, a the Negro cement increases, ‘There ho docber the tropic fovest ele for race withthe Fors genius “Twelve hundred miles dowra fom Belém she sete of Pemambco andthe en Olin and Reif: (We fre sal in north Bl) Olds, the older elsent, Srefae by the bostnen a “the cy « edade tel lovely dm flo Poraguse ge and 2 gracious people. The Dutch capeoed and lo ie Reif, afew miles down the ces, swelled into the fe third largest city of Bra Olinda matared its subele brew of Poregal and Africa, and then rested. “Above the public square with is tall palme and famboyants ae the mins of church, che scarred two-towered fagade wich masealine srollvork, and ‘othing behind but a hill Sto Antonio and the Bene- icing Monaro So Beno are aie Slo th 2 quality not unlike che Byzantine. (The church has Some fine Datel tes from the yes of oscupaion) "A charming lle German monk tok ws around So Bento; heeaches piloophy tothe Seminary eu dence. He rominded the of hae Reinhold Niche fonce old me: "The Germans are delightful, ndvidue Slly; and dreadful colecvely” Yes: he knew the, Fagan of John Dovey: was pre of ou 3 Ibrary was a large, hoge-vindowed room, with late seventeeth-cenry panels Bue no panting could compete ith the glory of those open windows: eat Sz south theseaasunlic sapphire, and Recife a white foam of breakers west, the bls amy with pay and from ic all the day». murmur of man and beast and vegetation » earesing the silence of the ‘acked books on the shelves. Vinicis picked a vol Se fom he, on ye ae The Geen tmonk, ssn astronomer mighe describe a sun sot, Kept talking of John Dewey. peace Recife (which means reef) is bil on refs and is- lands. Jst before you come tot from Olinda yor pss tne ofthe several mcmbor in which dwell neatly fil the ey five ondred and fry thoosand “The hows fil he swamp and boom land in and about twa, They are bul of mud and "bela Jn'thin poles snd bamboo; sometimes of wood, dn oF Plsster; with thatched roofs, Like the Afsean lane Gas]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY house they are Jong and divided into many rooms by parons hat dono each the root There is no ce “The floor, lke the yard seat hunting ground forthe ehistens the doa the citer == “The miserable macambo is unc for human habiew son; infan morality & high, dese spreads lke Srey Yer the folk are at ease and luminous. Despite the dst folvent city all around, the mucambo gives the sense ‘of a sure and quiet group, a if this were indeed a vik Inge inthe fore. “The sume communal spite i inthe crowded srcets of the old town; which is built on islands, with a church. . Sio Joe Sio Antonio. foreach dee twit, The srets wind; some so narvow a man can touch both mouldring walls with his hands: The wine dows and doors are always open; the foi, dark as their gutters that dodge the sun ive out of doors, with and wichin eachother, sin a village, There is aways ‘musi: the patata vendor sings his wares, balancing his fo wie baskets just above the ground from the bow on his shoulders he hoy strikes hs gles sl sirupy drinks; the whole streets slant with the soft Bi of the Brain Poros, 50 soangely ike 1 think of the typical vilage of the Mata: the ox- cars creeping ie on sald wood whe the el dren in the mud, the women singing and serabbing their men's shires atthe seam wh halves the es secep from the two banks; and the men at checker in the eaf6 within the peresial mosie ofthe sabi, A see communal whale sche village Bra’ rea wit? ‘ae the individal man or woman you find the same {nneger, the same direct rootedness and easefalncs ia ath—yet complex like the samba, Te isa forest ex sence a8 of tres, each whole and of thir individoal bas] ‘THE BODY OF BRAZIL wholnes making the tick wood. You may fnd ie snywhere Buri archetype in Bra he ean, lined Ney Here ic in the mocambos, here i isin the old streets of Recife Enter one of the churches, whose tof fate doesnot ier and wth te glasog iteror you ls Cross the bridges over the sees ito medem Rest, and you ese Aue das se he rn he ge cn siency goes There confusion; there & Voelker chaos. Integration requires strength, Recife, the great commercial cy founded by marchnts—Forgese, Jerr Buc Tecoma awl of wae il, ety bridges over be canal itermnale boa foam cet sow maid woke ss Slums and mucambor. Asa whole, Recife soa ogy a eed On he ce ts here de forest sain s zomg have he energy for wholeness. e sad Here in the malarial outands othe overipe old town where tls most harsh where proper foed sad the dacen care of the children a legend, Ike the ool sea breezes that blow only for the rich: here de- te all these unforgivable handicaps, and here alone, lives a folk with the energy to be whole, Do not idealze their state, disgraceful to Brazil's Four hundred miles down the coast from Pemam- buco, isthe city of Bahia.* The rim of i, called Re- rl mei Saador ot Sio Saar, hin iy the mae of be Sa" as]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY oncavo is ales of pal and jungle, il comulta- ously gree, and the hs ofthe blac children ofthe sogar saves Noc il the outskisof the city docs the coor igh, “The town is terraced fom de depth ofthe Bay on a sudden sep hill beyond wich ves and other hills swave in all drcvons Even the fal of the fis ill is warened with eis-ros alleys Tes rommic has the brsnes streets, modern builiogs and eraces some wi open fl oroning the lower ty: Os {his high ground lve he people who can pay for el soothe trade winds avenues of wi gy tinted, the trivia Bue unobjecronale finery ‘of the dale clases. Mos are homes of lighe- sade Once I drove the renty miles from Parco air fl fo Porcof Spain through 2 wet night of pains agers ing the sky of hoses pubane with dark shmbet of Genstanc tars berween ripped clonds. Even in the irk, the Eat Indians of nid ere dicnguhble from the Negroes by their shawls and ther grace which is more ofthe ai, es of earths.» And once Trove she twenty mils by day. Not a whe face feoramaatos, The hots ae hovel dare snout along the alien arecy of commerce. The base are tracks with bare plants for seat most of them wit signs “Men Only.” ‘The women wall the children flow from the sans to the open jungle, sharing vith the pigs, goat, lards. The Hindus walla ‘Thee spartenes isnot pre or will incamate eter bovis ad pale eyes is nda They are aloo no rom the Negroes, bur fom ean and earth in Tend Atria. The diterence ofthe two subject rics ales ho dco; flower and a bird ean breathe the mae tis Be both aces tel PorcofSpain a big cy with well over one une ded’ thostad shaban a a shapels, spre chaos, Acighe fs entra sree are dark nd before svar blackoor they were dark Behind groceries sad Aygoods sores fork the legal prog shops tod the brothels, Sweat is dark here; dak sulleny sales Ss (357)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY the sole pasion. The Negroes il the town. with their luldish char. (Even the language of the Bris ruled Negroes in Jumaica, Trinidad Barbados, Brit: ish Honduras, bespeaks their Jnfelzaon; the le age of the Hispanic Negroes in Braz, Cuba, be- _ ells their freedom of spe) The white the sparse white oficial, sh chrough the thi ‘they own, as through anther jungle. “After dinner, on thie ase vi Tlefe the Queens Park Hotel fora bi of sald fresh ait. Actos isthe big green, where once Isa a football match becween dark teams, and the dak throng hyseiel with exe citement. Failed ftom the world of great decsions lec them vent thei need of decisions in licking a bal to a goal! Almost ditectly opposite the hotel door within he dark breath of the green, a black gud and black ran. The gel ells fo met “Darling, shall Tiwale with you?" I go on. She gets up, leaving het boy on the bench, and follows. “Why not, daring?” On my way back, although i very dan, she sees me coming and walls toward me. “Daring,” she Says, “follow me.” Opposite «hundred yard down from the hotel is a Brghese coeage; of the porch officers and gendemen drink, and in the open hal the cool ladies. My heare goes out tothe gis I know the Beng hoger of npr snd she coding Spistal hunger T pas che gil with agreeing, an ‘hes seach the Bench wire dhe se he Back boy eyes me, Is hea pimp or a frend? Evidently he finds tin order dar 2 gil of his race should hire ove her body, for an hous, to a man of mine. All my race has, thar he needs is money. Even if 1 sook the gi bit fa, I should noe have her T could not touch her. ¢ contempe of our whi rule. (waning) crackles in the dark beeween his eyes and mie. ‘Whae fle in Trinidad fa Jamaica and Barbados, bss8] OUR ISLAND HEMUSPHERE isin Egypt and Sigapore and India: ithe bight of the Butoh Empie and sence, Hard evo seaboe thac these backs of Pore-of Spain are of the rie of Hats cousins of Caba and Brit Whetever be Bist iar rls Afsicae and Ese India eco resed popalati ‘And Beta’ attade toward the dark races se tot ao ours sie noe these which Genrmany has Brought toa demoniaelly Togiclconclosoa? If here ate ‘inferioe” races, why noe asupeior nce Tests to andy the dieae which isin th while we ihe We need broad generalizations for our social and culeural thinking, & engineers eed the formulae of Plysies In both cass they are working spproainat tions, certain to shit with despning Rrstncay se for example, Newon's athens was amend by the non ocldeans, Einstein, the quan theory, Maa ian infinitely more complex fd than physics Therefore our geneasscons on man, competed so those of algebra or geometry, are at nce mee crude and more shifting «- precly becrae the hana substance i more subi and extra, Tg the gee eration of the “three Americ” It grates ap Aksincions, in order to give wea concep tool inking Arveten el ‘Wheo, I eal the United States and Canada “one Ametica” whose siguatore Anglo-Sezon, Tam aware of French Quebe; I mow the weight sad sven af non Anglo‘Sanen elses inthe Usted Sey the ever widening and deepening, concbutons of Lain, Negro Sev, Jey Cele to tur gymphonie nae sion, Neverheles, our dominane note pla, pefcologil cual. an aiapeaion fom ish soures. Language bis played "great role fo this; for our words shape and lnit the Scope of out 59)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY a nee ota kg The Pen ae ply ge Se ee of ie fae ao siete hg pty of Bs ore NEL wie adnate vincs via we Fae pipet re ‘strong Negro strain, Nations like Mexico, Bolivia, pao Nae xpi Ne He Met, Hl eu ploy rial yh ih ni seep te Cony i preity fe pop ir ane oi Vix hy fern Ae Bo a a Ine od gm piney 2 ey He SRE: ae nit chs at Ae pa oe ee ae eae seneeenteme pn dcop te pin dean of te eva oe ier te Mego gg Gi te Ae pest eg: ab er ad or fear creo Hips ne Reve ae fey comms ered soa Neg de Somen eo ory sien eee ely arco Phe tind Amesics Brac. Bris racial lemets are almost identical wih thos of Hispanic Amery the man of Porogl not fr from th Spaniard and [360] OUR ISLAND HEMISPHERE the African and India components of Brazil ae of ours close to those of our “second America” Yer Bra dint a does indeed fom the other rs yf Vr Areri a she rm Th san of tgs pil fray we ee tan adaptive dadvanage, compared co the lndan fof Mexico ‘or Per. On the ore hand the Afrcan in Beal's rope forest isa an inmenseadapive Yantage, The Portugues, moreove, since the eariae Gitig cena wa 4 ang Vaan for the axher “Spsin” of Castle. Arges Andalas Cat. lol, The sealant in Bel fal how ere levloped and selecivestsns is a peoples dance Soe lee fo te pin and cage ‘Ameria of Spain pope tran as ct Tow thn 0 their Iberian brother “The tree Americas vary in their understanding of sxc he, The weak of thn comely tc litcaly, beezue it api into neary twenty f= Publis:—che America tt speas Spmah unde. ands ioelf and the other Atperias bese ‘The weak rust undentand the strong. And inthe case of this “Amecce the pla wales joined with cultural serength Bro hos slow cura gat nor elke out 4 trat of a vas continental county which an tae is time above making wp ite mind. Yer Beal inows us beter than we know Branly far better, Br Knowledge ofthe other Tbro-Amerca is weaker Pers haps one reison why we sre beter understood them than they by Oy hat we ae more acess to the IbeorAmerisan nndersanding. There are, of ‘oor, hondreds of thousands of pean from Meet ico Braz who hae saeay herd of our exsrenee, whereas any" Amesiesn i likely to have seemed & “ede wl nt fog ht Ta guges a ab spoken by mallony, expecially cha] "Parga io the Andes, rsSOUTH ausRican JOURNEY balderdssh movie “about” Rio, But lage numbers of Thero-Amerieans have ia thes pase strsin of the European which makes the United States an’ open beaks compared to what the Affe-indanligpnic pase to most American. "Yer the ressons for out ignorance lie deeper. The serong nel not know the wee neighbor. And oor sind oolong ae remains complacently rooted in the thalow empricisn of the eighteenth centery,exonot lenow calves whose chief expesioos ae fligious and secieic. A dimension of realty is lacking fram fur common conseousnesy that i why, wien the Sverige American Ike south, he ses adored vi Sion of picrreaqunes”or violent revauton Bat the desper, beezse rare, orgenic consconenes of the Ieto-American can embrace at ent the surfaces of gar commeea ciatin sdoforcof coe for, eneranment and fact-finding. The great di dent voices of or eultare: Emerson, Poe, Whitman, Thoreey, have slays been recognized and respected the Ibero-Amercs. And oor masters of techni lopli ave aya eon Thx jean dciples “The relations of the Unied States with the other ‘Americas have ben elementary, calling for litle pene- tration beyond the needs of buying an seling. Phere have of course been exceptions: Mexican ar, for ine seancs, hat influenced our fecent ar American archae- logis have done good work in’ Cental America, Bo the exeetins have not gone deep). Oar cipor matic rerions have on the’ whole Been pateted after our rudimentary business intercourse: a combina- tion of bargaining and bulldozing, with rhetorical 2p- peals to our mutual democratic tradition. “The conscious relations between the two Thero- Americas have not been much better. In Brazil there [362] OUR ISLAND HesUsPHERE {san oppresivesleneé about her neighbors, though ‘Mesieo ‘enjoys a remote high eee. In Argentina the lence ls broken too often by sallow ielerancies about Bra, ‘The Spanih-pesking republics have leds sene of wity on the pllal plane’ they ae but vaguely aware of Bran as potential power from ‘whose growth they may all prt. Lack of functional incercourse i the chief hindrance for good inter- Ihsan elon, Thre np ae ergy although ie grows. Argentine whese, for instance, goes increasingly to Brain exchange for coffe. Ury and Chile know far more sharply their need of re tions with the United Sexe than with Bra oc with tach othe. The pervasive ieertbro-Amesican feel ings cultural. And ie ely to ignore the dierence Breen Bra and the other reptblis. To the pots and novels of Spansspesting Ameticy, Bra is one of ws"—and tthe socal revoltonare, alo. 63)The One America Variety, confused, is weakness integrated is life, Rich as the experience of thee three Americas has fee hi vl depp Alfonso Reyes the great Mesicananan of lester, has wren: ‘We have never boen able to zesign ourselves, from both sides ofthe linguistic frontier, to the proposition {ht the American word is 4 geographic and historic decide, we fae eer wdettood America i the etic sense” Sociology, economics, all human FiSbey, have conspired to make of the poc's dream pecealy, ‘The thiee Americas need one another become themselves, The functioning principle of each ofthe three and ofeach politcal enty within each Sipust be the One Amerie. As one, they ean best do ipomess together As one, they ean send fem in a dangerous World and cooserve tei independence. A ‘ones most important of all they can channel and Energize their national powets in a dynamic direction ‘Shieh will ensure health within cach fronder and harmony together, Their need manifest in what tach of she has that the other lek. ‘The selations terween them of exchange and mutel nurture ae oF ani, they are the relations of invegral personales, Eich sovereign, yer for the flilment of ts inde- pendence desmnling integration with the ochers "The three Americas havea more immediae poses sion than 2 hersphere; one without which the hen Sphere could easly disintegrate, in politcal and cle fhral terms, ke Afria of Asa. Tes dhir common {enve of democratic destiny, their dynamic will hat (364) OUR ISLAND HEMISPHERE the term New World shall have a deeper than the geographic meaning in which the. Gacoveres wed fe The Jesus in Paraguay, the Pantans in New England, were remote yet sinc collborton in what became. che American Commandment 0 bold inthis hemisphere the new Cay of Man, The eightenth-century” and eatly”ninceendccoiny statesmen, who fogged the Ameica pola ik dependence, tomed this early eligi api igo a secular religion Whar ie ise im spike shined in praciabiy. Men ike Jeffeson, Fain, fd their southern dicples who founded the Hist Panic republics, were convinced the the New World ‘woald isue from propery drafted poiiel consstas tion. Ther conception of democrary was raves But ic served to por the viion of freemen on the sate book from Canada to Chile Freedoms infinitely more complex and tragic than these optimistic children of Routan and Locke com. rived The genertions sine they founded tee Amer. ican republics have had no grates no more ardoces tak thn to deepen the American religion of demos sey, The United States played the len role 0 saben inthe acta wating i down at te bis of all American lar and inthe development of socishpolical and mgchancal technics for bs proper gation, The peoples of America Flspan, polly End economically ont backward dps, he payed the leading roe in the deepening of the dembersee concep. This they have done not by overs doc, but by thei racy, accheialy and elec mare fee and more organic ways of ling ‘The pens of the Americas and thei capac, complement one another. nthe Ipero-Arerions these is danger that the telosed depths of emotional ad aesthetic power, lacking onde in pial and coor 65]SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY nomic fos, lacking commanicitin, lacking inde Sl cpio, ein nfo and ne Ot da i that our steeorypes of econotsie and pol ems becoming ende sod objects in themselves ab- sorb cu Tove, din our energie, shallow aod deplete aro, Our ke pesto cg. Thee Of the ether America & peshoualy subjective. We Save the ives of ou hdres through the schools and the mechanized ars of adi, newpsing, move we re them inlleccua and aethese nurture. Bot we {oc vals forthe sbseance of this nrcre; we ack even the will andthe "me? to erdeize oat lack of Sales. Oar fellow Americans, in che sobmance of their ales a superior tows eto them inthe mat ter of ross andthe dboton of goods ler tt Shiléren di, and those tha survive, tey permit to be teposed to aen, more efit forme of common: "The wondrous truth is dit she thee Americ have orered diferent aspect of the Peon, whore fal own Snes he ar of the coe ‘oat Ameiean tigi of democracy. The person forthe are non He ee il a of I onan and purposive pari the social group nd in the Comes. These wo integrins te not a viable inf; ony the neds of sal may spare them, eg in he op {whic nad cone centic boi from fanly and workeinion to so tregn state and fedrsed internation) reqs soil Js ae Fens ee of rr saps and eric. Tvegraion in the Coss implies the expe thoes and seven of the as and tlgon, Aa af iu eaten be led fm he Sndividons social and ble conduce, Both integrae tions enl ll man's cemers bis nsnctive ane Sonal if, his wil his seabed and nels eke 1366] OUR ISLAND HEMISPHERE ing. Only when the individual fanctiots on all hee Planes and toward al thse directions, a person, ‘And democrsey is dhe one principe of ie wih guire this wholeness of Bhavioy which therefore inelcably moves toward the development of pests Th the totalitarian and aritocric syste for stance, the individuals responsbiry toward pulls action is teken from him an vested i leader and se, Inthe materialise forms of ocala al con. Suni tae make at sbshte of human sci the individals det condi and elation othe Coons trophies aod dasppears ‘Demoercy in th complete sense that have given ig mae inca not only tl men, Bo te hol nae, Feedom must mean growth aoc only forall eh, bet free pe at nen fhe man, Sk of this wholes 8 ou modern history revel Se, incr deve pn dole. lm employs its energie, privileges 2nd genis to Abolish freedom,” PENS sd gee “In the United States there she will toward social justice. Te resins shallow, Fandamenely feels not ‘only becuase our way of life fap to genera the capacity to confron the soc ijt implice fa fur economiz isons; eren inte beste ot Blindness to the sestheve and religions dimeasons of tan, our mote and deliberate coatenpe for the pees ‘atonal andthe organs, depeve ws ofthe energy ond insight for ereive soci action. Tn many of te oro, Aneren sun hat ram compcon acceptance, Yer fae eo fourih because of the kek ftp ecnewat sa imensions in our modem world eannctpessbly de velop. ee verte, in the complete ese Ihave given i encercy & the damiant will the domiast Sra ba)SOUTH AMERICAN JOURNEY tion, of the three Américas. In this universal vale, the American hemisphere is a new world; the con cept of One America has meaning. Now look atthe map. You willse that Europe and ‘Asia form one immense mass, with Aftiea «2 step Below Gibraae ip appendage. Sniy, Au tralia with Oceanis depends upon Eurasia and che maser of Earssa, ‘Thi isthe aser hemiophere Th are, fe soven-tenths of the teresa globe; in population, ies more dan nineencs of mankind. {Eoote again atthe map. See how the vart arm of Abia ‘hss from the west ino the eye of our hemisphere 1 Alaska; see how fom the eat, Asics looms upon 1s atthe bulge of Bra. The Americas ae an sland in this overwhelming land-massy minority ‘land surrounded by the far greater lands and populations ofthe other hemisphere “The American Flgion of democracy as T have de- fined ic... this bone of our politcal structre, this Bod of ame ways its and acter hasbeen shared, by the overwhelming majority ofthe thaman masses. The concept ofthe person asthe fune damental integer of value was born in the Mediter mean word. fe snot ofthe mn fabri ofthe great cultures of India, China, Japan. The Hindu’ bee in reincarnation radially linits the person to an ephem- al fom, and pessoal action eo an extrinsic vale, ‘The Chinese ancestor worship shies the focus of good to the family and, lagely, wo the pas in Japan there is a stateidolaty’lesely akin to the religion of the fascias, Rusia’ Christian tradition brings her within the domain ofthe person; Russ current religion of inlecial materialism desitely—even if only shal- lowly and temparaly-places her in another camp. stl OUR ISLAND HEMISPHERE In Western Europe where the religion of democracy weg need tah aris htond, today engaged in a grese ruggle for sural In Gerzany ely, fscized Spain “in face onthe whole continent, ts very exinence fs threntened, And the threze wil oust the fall of Hite, ance fac itself samere end prodtt of deeprsnedsni-demo™ erate Forces within the very exe of modern Faro pews thei and of he wle indie Ws ores which have penerted into the altar of demos say, Gr Bay rane andthe Unied Sas frets wich unconsciously coropt in lange mesnte the itera and raed thought tae tot comple enuy lead the Bight agin fassam. ‘The enemy sirzoends us, the enemy is within ‘ws, Ips dhe inward emmy the we mu thinly ne ‘or if we overcome the enemy whut, we may sl break from within, Be if we overcome the coca Within, we shall be sound, we sal be whole; and 9 forward enemy’ shall rele, "The grese Oriental tultares sich asthe Hindo, have Been based pon 8 sense ofthe indvidal very dnt from ours: These are not eneay, bu alien euues. Our modern ek lion of techsiqus of empricnm and cence wok ship, by reducing the dimensions of man's rey falling avay from our own bac vision, flere % the essential ena. valance os inthe exo of Germany ‘with the alien culare of Japan, pons to our rage postion in an overwhelmingly hole wort, The ear gains the omtwird enemy” cannot be mceefliy Gino ue i nde pee he eep wer against the inward enemy, ged ot the very hear of out liberal and radia thoughe fn es peo the dep wa forte sie pare the person, Tbero-Amercs hae resources av much B69)