@ STYLE PROFILE
A SOPHISTICATED
WINTER SIPPER
Brewing wheatwine at home
BY GORDON STRONG
Many examples
play up the
“wine” angle and
seek strong
aromatics anda
lean body rather
than being a
malt bomb, but
interpretations
vary widely.
WHEATWINE
ay THE NUMBERS
+++ 1080-1120
+1,016-1,050
3 8-15
Bu: css co 30260
B12
Photo by Chtes A Paterinages Pls
ost homebrewers
are quite familiar
with barleywine,a
very strong ale with
English roots and
‘modern American craft interpretations.
However, many have not heard of
wheatwine, its quirky craft cousin. AS
with many wheat beers, a grist of at
least half wheat mattis typical, but a
Wheatwine is not just a barleywine
with a higher percentage of wheat. I's
quite a bit more sophisticated than
that. Many examples play up the “wine
angle and seek strong aromatics and a
lean body rather than being a malt
bomb, but interpretations vary widely.
Stan Hieronymus writes in Brewing
with Wheat that wheatwine has its ori-
gins in modem American craft brewing,
but that it was nat intentional. A happy
accident produced a higher gravity
American wheat ale. The first modern
commercial version is credited to Rubi
on Brewing Company (Sacramento,
Galifornia) in 1988, but many breweries
now produce it asa limited edition
winter release. Some examples are vin
tage-dated and oak-aged, suggesting
‘they likely will continue to improve
with age.
The 2015 Beer ludge Certification
Program (BICP) Style Guidelines in
cludes Wheatwine as style 22D, part of
‘the Strong American Ale category that
also includes double IPA, American
strong ale, and American barleywine
So you can correctly infer that higher
alcohol levels are a major component
of the style.
SENSORY PROFILE
\Wheatwines made like American bar-
leywines with half the pale malt
swapped out for wheat malt will often
be indistinguishable from barleywines.
Abiscuity or bready character might
30 DEcEMRe® 2015 aREW YOUR OWN
suggest to tasters that an English base
malt was used, or that some flaked
grains were added to increase the body
‘and mouthfeel. While American barley:
wines can also vary widely, many have
strong caramel, toasty, or bready fla-
vors,and many feature aggressive
‘American hop varieties (often with cit:
‘sy, piney. or resiny qualities). think
both of these qualities are out of place
ina wheatwine, but you can likely find
‘examples made this way.
‘Wheatwine is more of a scaled up
‘American wheat beer than a wheat
barleywine,so the main malt flavors
are the grainy, bready flavor of wheat
with 3 more dextrinous body,
\Wheatwines tend to be more attenu:
ated than barleywines, giving them a
drier finish. The increased body pro-
vides a filling sensation but this is
usually not accompanied by a syrupy
(oF sugary sweetness,
The aromatic qualities of
\wheatwine features hops less promi-
rently than a barleywine, which allows
some of the bready, wheaty aromas to
bbe enjoyed. Hops can be of any variety
but milder floral, spicy, and fruity vari
‘ties tend to play better than more
aggressive choices. Likewise, the matt
‘can have some additional character,
‘but not at the expense of masking the
bready wheat flavors. Light caramel,
‘toast, or honey qualities can adé com-
plexity while complementing the base
wheat character
Hop bitteress levels are wide
‘open, and often suit the brewer's per-
sonal preferences. | prefer moderate
|8Us, but the balance can be low to
high. The bitterness shouldn't be low
‘enough that the beer is perceived to be
‘sweet, but shouldnt be so high that
tthe wheat flavors are overpowered,
Higher IBU levels are fine if the beer is
intended to be aged, since bitternessWHEATWINE
(S gallons/19
alt-grain)
0G=1.108 FG=1018
[BU +48 SRM=9 ABV= 13.2%
INGREDIENTS
413 los. (5.9 kg} German wheat malt
275 tbs, (1.25 kg) German Pilsner
matt
2.75 tbs. (1.25 kg) Simpsons Golden
Promise™ mait
13 02, (0.37 kq) honey malt
14 ibs (0.64 kg) white sugar
(45 min)
444 AAU German Magnum hops
(60min) (1.02/28 g at 14.4%
alpha acids)
8.25 AAU Citra® hops (5 min)
(075 02/21 g at 11% alpha acids)
9.75 AAU NZ Nelson Sauvin hops
(1 min) (0.75 62/21 9 at 13%
alpha acids)
5.28 AAU NZ Motueka hops (0 min)
(075 02/21 g at 7% alpha acids)
White Labs WLPOO1 (California Ale)
or Wyeast 1056 (American Ale) or
Fermentis US-05 yeast
cup com sugar (iF priming)
STEP BY STEP
Two or three days before brew day,
make a 2-qt.(2-L) yeast starter,
aerating the wort thoroughly (orefer-
ably with oxygen) before pitching
the yeast
‘On brew day, prepare your ingre-
ints; mill the grain, measure your
hhops,and prepare your water This
recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO)
water. Add % tsp 10% phosphoric
acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing
water, or until water measures pH 5.5
at room temperature, Add 1 tsp. cal-
cium chloride (CaCl,) to the mash,
This recipe uses a multi-step mash
with a mashout. On brew day.mash
inall the grains at 104 °F (40°C) in
22 ats. (21 L) of water and hold this,
‘temperature for 10 minutes, Raise
the temperature by infusion or
direct heading to 131 °F (55 °C) for
STYLE PROFILE RECIPES @
15 minutes, then ralse to 146
(63 °C) for 40 minutes, then to
158 °F (70-°C) for 15 minutes. Finally
raise to 168 °F (76 °C) for 15 min-
‘utes to mashout, recirculating, This
step mash helps provide a more
_attenuative wort and improves clar-
ity Fly sparge with 168 °F (76 °C)
water until 65 gallons (25 L) of wort
is collected
Boil the wort for 90 minutes,
‘adding the hops at times indicated in
tie recipe. Add the sugar in the Last
15 minutes of the boil. After adding
the final hops when the heat is
tured off, let the wort stand for
120 minutes before chilling the wort.
‘This technique is called a hop stand
‘and will add flavor, aroma, and some
bitterness from the flameout hops.
Chill to 66 °F (19 °C).
‘Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast
starter Allow fermentation tempera
ture to rise to no more than 72 °F
(22°C) until fermentation is com-
plete. Rack and allow the beer to