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Latin American Perspectives
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Tradition and the New Social Movements
The Politics of Isthmus Zapotec Culture
by
Howard Campbell
LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECIIVES, Issue 78, Vol. 20 No. 3, Summer 1993, 83-97
i 1993 Latin American Perspectives
83
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84 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 85
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86 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
led by a charismatic leader killed local officials and reclaimed lands taken
by Spaniards. This rebellion lasted for four years before being crushed by the
Oaxaca government (Tutino, 1993). In 1866, in a major incident that galva-
nized Zapotec ethnic opposition to outsiders, Juchitecos wiped out a battalion
of Napoleon's troops. The last major Juchiteco rebellion was the Che Gomez
movement of 1911, during the Mexican Revolution, the second largest armed
revolt of the time (Knight, 1986).
After the revolution, life changed dramatically in the Isthmus. Formerly
the region had been very poor, but between 1930 and the 1960s relative peace
was maintained and there was rapid economic development (Binford, 1985).
Juchitan, located near the Pan-American Highway, became a major commer-
cial center. Until the 1950s, it had been primarily a peasant town with only
a few rich families. Economic growth led to the development of a rich
Zapotec merchant class that built large, elegant homes and bought cars and
stylish clothes. Streets were paved, and hospitals, schools, and other urban
facilities were installed. The majority peasant population, however, contin-
ued to work the fields with oxcarts and to wear sandals or go barefoot.
Juchitan today has the atmosphere of a city and a peasant village at the same
time. Pigs and cattle share the streets with fancy cars and trucks; modem
houses with satellite dishes are located next to adobe huts with dirt floors.
Class differences increased in the 1960s and 1970s as a result of two major
development projects: the Benito Juairez dam and irrigation system and a
massive oil refinery in nearby Salina Cruz. Heavy spending on these projects
created an economic boom. In the climate of unfettered growth and social
instability that resulted, land prices rose, and many peasants lost their plots
to businessmen and corrupt politicians (Binford, 1985). In general, develop-
ment made the rich richer and the poor poorer. The peasants blamed the
government and the wealthy Zapotecs for their problems. Whereas pre-
viously Juchitecos had united to fight against outsiders, now they began to
fight among themselves.
The COCEI was created in 1974 by Juchiteco student veterans of the
1960s Mexican protest movement. These activists organized displaced peas-
ants, recruited aggressively in poor neighborhoods and among workers and
younger students, and set up an extensive political network in Juchitain and
surrounding villages. The COCEI eventually included the majority of Ju-
chitecos. COCEI leaders claimed that the movement was the contemporary
manifestation of the Zapotec rebellious spirit expressed in earlier protests.
Their major tactics were land invasions, strikes, and other direct actions.
After years of struggle with the local elite, the COCEI allied itself with
the Mexican Communist party and won the municipal election in 1981. It
called its administration the "People's Government," flew a large red flag
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 87
with the hammer and sickle over Juchitan City Hall, and installed posters and
statues of Marx, Lenin, and Che Guevara in its offices. Yet the new mayor,
Leopoldo de Gyves, said that his governmentwas based on Zapotec cultural
principles. For two years Juchitan was a kind of political laboratory. Zapotec
was spoken in the mayor's office, land was given to peasants, and there were
frequent strikes and highway blockades. Radical graffiti and political posters
were plastered all over town, and politicized street theater performances took
place in front of City Hall. Pro-COCEI artists painted murals with themes
from Zapotec history on buildings, fences, and walls. Political demonstra-
tions were modeled on the local fiestas (velas) that are one of the prime
symbols of Isthmus Zapotec collective identity. COCEI rallies were a kind
of ethnic performance in which emotional speeches in Zapotec linked current
struggles to the "great Zapotec past." Juchitan became the most politicized
community in Mexico, reminding some of Nicaragua, Cuba, or El Salvador.
The media depicted it as a center of Communism and Indian rebellion.
At the same time, there was a kind of cultural renaissance.5 The Juchitan
Cultural Center assembled a group of bohemian Zapotec poets, painters, and
intellectuals, a sort of rural Mexican version of the Beat Generation, whose
members gather in local cantinas such as La Flor de Cheguigo (The Flower
of Cheguigo)6 and Ra Bache'za (The Rendezvous) to talk about politics, art,
and philosophy. Among the members of this indigenous intellectual circle
are Victor de la Cruz, a poet and the author of many studies of local culture
and history; Macario Matus, poet, folklorist, and chronicler of Juchiteco
history; and Sabino L6pez, a student of Francisco Toledo, whose brightly
colored surrealistic canvasses of Isthmus animals and erotica are attracting
attention in the United States as well as in urban Mexico (Campbell, 1990a).
While the COCEI governed Juchitan, the movement supported the intel-
lectuals and the Cultural Center in a variety of projects, including Zapotec
language classes, oral history research, and the publication of dozens of
books of poetry (Campbell, 1990b). A group of Juchitain writers and artists
founded a multigenre cultural magazine called Guchachi' Reza (Sliced
Iguana). (Iguanas are a powerful symbol for Isthmus Zapotecs and tne
COCEI because they are feisty and can go for days without food or water.)
Guchachi' Reza is devoted to Zapotec folklore, language, history, and culture.
Each issue contains colorful art work by Isthmus painters, ethnographic
photos, and historical documents. The quality of the writing and graphics is
excellent. There is nothing else like it in rural Mesoamerica. COCEI intel-
lectuals also set up a radio station in City Hall that became the first indepen-
dent station in Mexico to broadcast mainly in an indigenous language. Its
programming was oriented toward the poor and the peasantry as well as local
intellectuals and, in addition to Zapotec music and poetry, included dis-
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88 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
The Zapotec were the first to rebel against the arbitrary actions of colonialism.
In 1660, a group of valiant women, tired of seeing their dignity and rights
trampled on, led the struggle against the Spanish.
Our struggle, Mr. President, has always focused on democracy and the right
to land. Che Gregorio Melendres, Che G6mez, Heliodoro Charis, Adolfo C.
Gurri6n, Roque Robles, and Valentfn Carrasco [Zapotec heroes] are examples
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 89
of the dignity of the Isthmians who gave their lives for the defense of their
lands and for justice and democracy founded on reason and rights (COCEI,
1990: 1, my translation).
When COCEI members fought the Mexican army in Juchitan in 1983, they
compared their actions to Che Gomez's fight against the federales during the
revolution. The three main COCEI leaders model their behavior on that of
charismatic leaders like Gomez. In Juchitan, the past is very much alive in
the present. Dead COCEI members are treated as martyrs and compared to
the heroes of local folklore. This has a particularly powerful effect because
the cult of the dead is very strong in Zapotec society. Most Zapotec homes
are decorated with dozens of photographs of deceased relatives, sometimes
placed on small shrines, and cemeteries are the sites of elaborate rituals
dedicated to the dead. The COCEI has exploited this cultural concern with
the dead to generate support for the movement. Since 1974, 25-30 coceistas
have been killed by police, soldiers, or right-wing gunmen (Amnesty Inter-
national, 1986), and they serve as a rallying point. Placards, banners, and
posters bear their images, and poems and songs are composed in their honor.
Their female relatives sometimes wear pictures of them around their necks.
No COCEI demonstration is complete without chants of "Free Victor Yodo!"
(referring to a popular COCEI activist "disappeared" by the Mexican military
since 1978).
Zapotec women are also a major theme in COCEI ideology. According to
Mexican folklore, Isthmus Zapotec society is matriarchal (see Chinias, 1983;
Campbell, 1990a), and the COCEI seizes on Zapotec women's powerful
image in photographs and posters that show them protesting against the
government dressed in colorful huipiles and long, flowing skirts. COCEI
intellectuals say that these women carry on the tradition of a Zapotec woman
who killed a Spaniard during the Tehuantepec rebellion. Thus Isthmus
women become key symbols of defiance, Zapotec ethnic identity, and
conservation of tradition. Depicted as heroines and the wives and mothers of
martyrs (analogous to the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo in Argentina), they
are also repositories of moral righteousness and militancy. In photographs
portraying their market role-carrying baskets of totopos (a local variety of
tortilla), fish, hammocks, or iguanas on their heads-women represent
industry and the nurturing of the community. With these images and symbols
the COCEI has tapped into the rich community oral tradition and national
mythology about "matriarchal" Zapotecs that continues to shape both local
and external perceptions of Isthmus women.9
The leaders explain these ideas at the COCEI's large, colorful political
demonstrations, which may draw as many as 10,000. Apparently spontaneous
events, they are in fact carefully planned to resemble Isthmus fiestas. Women
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90 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
dress up in their bright ethnic costumes and gold jewelry. There are proc
sions with bands in which women and men are segregated and carry banners.
Marimba music fills the air, fireworks explode, women sprinkle red confetti
on people's hair, and other ritualized activities associated with Zapotec
fiestas occur at appropriate intervals (Campbell, 1989). The speeches are
almost always in the native language and tend to include picaresque jokes in
Zapotec that only insiders can understand (Campbell, 1990a). COCEI crowds
respond enthusiastically with applause, cheers, and laughter. Speakers praise
Zapotec society and attack capitalism. They use terms such as guendalizaa
(sharing and cooperation) and tequio (communal work) as familial metaphors
for the movement's political activities.10
COCEI members call each other bichi, a kinship term which implies that
all Zapotec men are brothers. They give their children Zapotec names such
as Sicabi (Like the wind), Nadxielii (I love you), or Guie'xhuuba' (Jasmine),
and they deliberately speak Zapotec instead of Spanish (although most
Juchitecos are bilingual). COCEI leaders defend peasant agriculture, local
arts and crafts, and the indigenous marketplace and criticize agribusiness, the
oil refinery, and big retail merchants. They argue that local cultigens such as
zapalote corn are superior to the sugarcane and rice introduced by the
government and that the oil refinery pollutes the air and the water. They claim
that the refinery has produced profits for the government but given nothing
to local people. Conversely, they view crafts such as hammock and pottery
making as preserving local traditions. Likewise, they see the female-run
marketplace where produce, women's ethnic clothing, and pottery are sold
as a center for equal exchange and the preservation of tradition. They attack
supermarkets and chain stores for being impersonal and interested only in
profit.
Francisco Toledo's paintings, including Isthmus animals such as the
iguana and the turtle and symbols from Zapotec folklore, portray the Isthmus
as a pristine natural environment in which myth and reality are intertwined.
They show Zapotecs living in harmony with animals and plants and the
COCEI heroically defending the natural world against the destructive forces
of industrial society, capitalism, and so on.
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 91
COCEI represents neither tradition nor invention but both and more. It com-
bines cultural elements from Zapotec society and many other sources in a
politically charged environment. It is a mixture of the old and the new, and
it is a movement based on both class and ethnicity.
Isthmus Zapotecs do indeed have a long history of rebellion. There is in
fact continuity between the COCEI and earlier Juchiteco movements because
the COCEI is fighting for Zapotec control of the same community lands
defended by previous Juchitecos. Likewise, the COCEI's struggle for polit-
ical autonomy is comparable to that of earlier Isthmus opposition groups.
Yet, clearly, the COCEI is not simply the reincarnation of past Juchiteco
political movements, nor are COCEI leaders modern Che Gomezes. For one
thing, the COCEI reflects a shift in Mexican politics after 1968 in which
veterans of the Mexico City student movement returned to their villages to
organize local people, bringing with them leftist ideology and tactics used in
Nicaragua and Cuba and sophisticated knowledge of how to influence public
opinion through the mass media. Therefore, the COCEI is less home-grown
and more cosmopolitan than past Juchiteco political organizations, its ideol-
ogy a creative blending of Marxist and Zapotec ideas.
Furthermore, the COCEI's version of the Zapotec past is based on a
selection from the historical record. For example, it omits mention of the
Zapotecs who fought on the side of the government during the revolution,
and it tends to deny that wealthy Zapotecs are also heirs to the history of
resistance. Periods of peace, accommodation, and social harmony are glossed
over in favor of times of struggle and confrontation with outsiders. Despite
COCEI rhetoric, Zapotec women suffer from many of the inequalities shared
by women cross-culturally, and in fact COCEI political decisions are made
almost exclusively by males.
In the economic area, things are equally complex. For example, the COCEI
defends traditional agriculture, but it is government money-extracted
through ethnic-oriented political mobilization-that sustains that agriculture.
Similarly, the COCEI's support of labor is a response to the proletarianization
of Isthmus society rather than a revival of the Zapotec rebel tradition.
Moreover, the COCEI's ideological invocation of Zapotec kin unity and
communal solidarity occurs in a context of increasing economic class polar-
ization. Finally, COCEI appeals to collective and reciprocal traditions, con-
fronting a reality of growing commodification of many aspects of Isthmus
life.
The cultural movement best exemplifies the COCEI's collage of cultural
styles and politicized mixture of new and old. Certainly, the COCEI's fiesta-
like political demonstrations are something new created from older cultural
elements. Moreover, its emphasis on the Zapotec language implies both con-
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92 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
tinuity and change. On the one hand, by speaking Zapotec, COCEI members
carry on a pre-Columbian tradition. On the other hand, this may involve the
use of modem technology, for example, in Zapotec-language programs on
its (now defunct) radio station. It may also include new ways of using the
language, such as writing poetry in Zapotec for the first time (until recently
there was no Zapotec alphabet) or translating Brecht and Neruda into Zapotec
for publication in Guchachi' Reza.
The COCEI painters also mix "traditional" and "modern" forms. Toledo's
paintings depict Isthmus animals and plants in magical realist and cubist
styles influenced by Picasso, Dali, and other avant-garde artists. His themes
come from Zapotec folklore and mythology, but he uses the finest painting
supplies money can buy, his techniques are innovative, and his work is on
the cutting edge of Latin American art (Markman and Markman, 1989). Thus,
although Toledo is known as a Zapotec who wears "Indian" huaraches,
headbands, and white peasant garb, his paintings sell in exclusive art galleries
in Paris, London, and New York. A millionaire said to have homes in Europe
and Mexico City, he continues to paint Zapotec cultural artifacts, give his
paintings indigenous names, and maintain his image as a primitive artist.
In the Juchitdn Cultural Center, a museum of Zapotec antiquities sits right
next to a modern art gallery which often includes paintings by famous
European and Mexican artists. The center's futuristic murals were painted
by a visiting Japanese artist. Juchiteco poets such as Macario Matus and
Enedino Jimenez glorify the customs of the peasants in rhymes and free-form
stanzas inspired by Mayakovsky, Langston Hughes, and L6pez Velarde.
Guchachi' Reza prints obscure Zapotec folktales with comments on the
Zapotec by well-known foreign intellectuals like D. H. Lawrence, Eisenstein,
and Paul Radin and critiques of these by Zapotec intellectuals. Ironically, the
Juchiteco intellectuals have already outdone the postmodern anthropologists
who are busy "writing culture" by creating an ethnographic/literary journal
that is multivocal, reflexive, and experimental without being narcissistically
personal or mind-bogglingly obscure.
The most original recent discussion of the forms of ethnic identity dem-
onstrated by Oaxacan indigenous groups is that of Kearney (1991; also
Nagengast and Kearney, 1990a, 1990b). While in many ways the Juchitan
and Mixtec cases are quite different, there is an interesting resemblance
between the syncretic Juchiteco cultural movement and the "transnational-
ization" of Mixtec identity that Kearney discusses. In the Mixtec case, in-
digenous Oaxacans have reformulated their ethnic identity in a new setting
after crossing international boundaries.11 In the Juchitan case, Zapotec intel-
lectuals and COCEI activists have fused socialist internationalism and Euro-
pean avant-garde artistic and literary styles with an intensely localist, if not
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 93
CONCLUSIONS
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94 LATIN AMERICAN PERSPECTIVES
NOTES
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Campbell / POLITICS OF ISTHMUS ZAPOTEC CULTURE 95
10. In Oaxacan villages, historically, communal work parties known as tequios have been
used to build roads and undertake other public works. Participation in tequios is a customary
requirement of community citizenship. Prior to the advent of the COCEI regime, this custom
was no longer used in Juchitan to maintain municipal buildings because the town had become
so large that its city services were handled by a full-time staff of municipal employees. PRI
municipal governments preceding the COCEI, however, had badly neglected the upkeep of the
City Hall. The first COCEI municipal government rebuilt it with volunteer labor that was called
tequio.
11. Nagengast and Kearney (1990b) note that in the Oaxacan Mixteca ethnic identity is
primarily village-centered. The emergent pan-Mixtec identity that they discuss hardly existed
before Mixtec peoples began to relocate to northern Mexico and the United States.
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