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Popular Wodworking
tape measure
■
are unlikely to disagree, but if they do, they will help you sort through the pile
you’ll be chasing your tail for a long time of combination squares to find the most
before you figure out what the problem accurate one in the bunch. Don’t be
is. To buy these tools, take a mechanical embarrassed to do this in the store; they
pencil and scrap of wood with you to the should be embarrassed that you have to
store that is at least 6" wide, 6" long and do this.
has one straight edge.
tape measure
■
the panel saw or radial arm saw where
they cut down big stock into small stock
for customers.
With the square reassembled, press the
head of the combination square against
the straight edge of the board and use
your fingers to hold the ruler down and
steady against the face of the board. With
a pencil, scribe a thin line along the edge
of the ruler. Make it as thin and consistent
as possible. If the square moves or the
line changes thickness, simply move the
square and try again. The ruler from your combination square can Accuracy is important here. Keep the square
Now flip the square over so the other confirm if the edge of the board is straight. registered securely against the wood as
Usually off-the-rack lumber will have at least one you scribe the line. If anything feels like it
face of the ruler is flat against the face decent edge. shifted during scribing, make another line.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine of your board and hold the head of the Use a mechanical pencil to ensure your line is
icandothatextras.com square against the edge. Push the square consistent in width.
up to your perfect line; this is called the ruler locks firmly in place. It should
“showing the line to the square.” If the stay put when you tug on it.
edge of the ruler is perfectly parallel to Check out the rest of the square. Is
your pencil line, you have found a square there a bubble level in the head? Yes?
that is indeed square. Congratulations. If No? It doesn’t much matter; it’s mostly
the line is slightly off, try the test again. worthless in such a small tool. Is there a
chapter 1.2
csquare
ombination
If it’s off in the same way, put the square removable scribe/scratch awl in the head?
back for another sucker, er – shopper. Again, pretty worthless in my book. I seem
■
tape measure
■
Now look at the ruler itself. It must to lose mine in the first week and never
be readable. Look for fine dimension miss it. It’s too small to use anyway.
marks. Better-quality squares will have Treat your combination square like it is
them engraved in the metal rather than a holy relic. If it gets knocked to the floor,
printed on. Ideally, you want the ruler to curse yourself and then test it immediately
have different scales on each edge. The for truth. If it’s out, get in your car and
best combination squares will have one head back to the hardware store. Throw
scale in 8ths of an inch, another in 16ths, away the old head but keep the ruler – it’s
32nds and 64ths. You can get away without still useful. Never slide the ruler needlessly
the 64ths. The 32nds are helpful in most through the head (I’ve seen some people
cases. The 16ths are non-negotiable and who do this like it’s a nervous tic). This
necessary. activity wears the area where the head Now flip the square over and show the ruler
Remove the square from its head meets the ruler. I’ve had squares that went to the line. If your square is true and your line
consistent, then the line and the ruler should be
by loosening the nut below the ruler. out of true after only a couple hundred
perfectly parallel. If the line and the ruler don’t
The ruler should be easy to remove and full-length motions through the head. If match up, try the operation again before you
Popular Woodworking
Magazine replace. You’ll be doing this quite a bit. that happens to you, buy a better brand reject the square – it’s easy to trip yourself up
icandothatextras.com Now tighten up the nut and make sure of square next time. when checking your square.
16' Tape Measure
First, why not buy a 50' tape measure like
all the contractors have on “This Old
House?” My dad always mocks my 16' tape
measure. “That,” he says, “is for girls.” Let
me tell you, the big tape measures are a
chapter 1.2
csquare
ombination
pain for furniture work. They curl up more
and are hard to lay flat on the work. They
■
tape measure
■
weigh a lot. They are bulky. They rarely
have the right scales on them.
A 16' tape measure is just the right
size for furniture and cabinet work. A 12' or 16' tape measure is a good size for
I sometimes use a 12' tape, but it isn’t building furniture and dealing with household
appreciably smaller or cheaper than the projects. When you start building houses, then
you can step up to the big-boy tapes.
16' tapes, which are pretty easy to find.
The first thing to do when buying a tape
measure is to pull the tape out and look
at the scale. It’s nice to have 16ths on
the entire length and 32nds along the
first 12" or so.
tape measure
■
the work (this makes it easy to mark and
measure accurately).
There also is a thing called “standout”
with tape measures, which is how far out
the tape will extend before it bends and
droops. For building furniture, this is not a Always check your tape measure against your combination square to ensure that the graduations are
big deal – a mere 36" to 48" of standout is similarly fine and actually line up. Manufacturers of tape measures and combination squares swear that
inaccurate scales cannot occur. I, however, have found occasional discrepancies.
no problem in the shop. (Know, however,
that you can never visit a home-building
site with this wussy tool.)
Popular Woodworking
Magazine
icandothatextras.com
Now check the tab, sometimes called
the “hook,” on the end of the tape
measure. It should move a little bit. How
much? Exactly as much as the thickness
of the tip of the hook. If the hook is 1 ⁄32"
thick, the hook should slide forward and
chapter 1.2
csquare
ombination
back 1 ⁄ 32". Some people foolishly glue
(or weld) the hook so it doesn’t move.
■
tape measure
■
This prevents you from taking accurate
measurements on either the inside or
outside of your work. When you measure The hook should move in and out. The distance
the inside of a box, the hook is pushed in it moves should be equal to the thickness of the
so the outside face of the hook is “zero.” hook itself. Tweak the hook with pliers until the
When you measure the outside of a piece, tape consistently measures inside and outside
measurements.
the hook is pushed out so that the inside
face of the hook is zero.
You can tweak the hook a bit with should be easy to activate and release –
pliers back at home in order to make the but not too easy. I’ve always fumbled with
tape measure accurate for inside and the tape measures that release by pressing
outside measurements. For now, find one a plate on the underside of the tool. I
where the hook looks like it moves enough constantly retract the tape by mistake.
to be accurate. Also – and this might sound funny – I like
There are other features on a tape to have a brightly colored tape measure.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine measure that are personal. A clip for the The color makes it easy to find when you
icandothatextras.com belt is necessary. The locking mechanism set it down.
Saws – jigsaw, miter saw, circular saw
■ circular saw
The jigsaw is a two-handed tool. One-
handed use is for hot dogs. One hand
should grasp the tool’s body and trigger.
Keep the other hand with a thumb
pressing down on top of the base against
the work. I use both hands to steer the
tool. My trigger hand supplies the forward
motion and does the heavy steering. My
other hand provides the small adjustments
that are critical to tracking my line. The
thumb also keeps the saw from jumping
up and down in the cut. If you keep the With a little practice you’ll be able to cut very The jigsaw is a two-handed tool. A thumb on the
saw’s plastic guards in place, this is quite close to the line with your jigsaw. If you can leave baseplate will help steady the tool and will allow
just 1⁄ 32" of waste, then it’s simple work to rasp you great finesse as you round curves and track a
14 safe. (or sand) down to your line. If you cross the line line. We’ve removed the plastic guard on this saw
Popular Woodworking
Magazine You also need to know about “relief while cutting, you’ll have no line to rasp to. Make (sorry, we shouldn’t do that). With the guard in
icandothatextras.com cuts.” These are the difference between a relief cut into the corner before cutting the curve. place, it’s quite a feat to cut yourself.
success and disaster at times. Simply put, curves that are a bit tighter by freeing
relief cuts are cuts you make into the waste up space behind the blade, allowing it
that allow you to remove the waste one to turn.
chunk at a time. They’re sort of like I usually make a couple relief cuts
waypoints for your tool. When your waste where my cutline is heading into a turn
comes out in small chunks, it’s less likely or coming out of a heavy turn. Also, I’ll
chapter 1.3 to droop and split and splinter, which can make a relief cut when I see that the waste
■ jigsaw ruin your work. It also allows you to turn is going to be 6" long or so. This really Relief cut
■ miter saw
■ circular saw depends on how big your waste piece is
going to be and how droopy it will become
during the cut. Learning where to make a relief cut takes some
We need to say a word about blades. practice. If you have a sharp corner, such as this,
that’s always a good place to put a relief cut.
Cheap blades will burn or leave a splintery
You’ll also want a few relief cuts in a long cut to
mess in their wake. Buy nice blades and prevent your waste from sagging and possibly
take care of them – wipe them clean with breaking off.
your WD-40 rag at the end of your shop
time that day. After years of trying out
different blades, we generally have two
kinds of blades in our shop. I like the
Bosch T234X Progressor blades, with 11
teeth per inch (“tpi” in shop lingo). Senior
Both of these are T-style jigsaw blades, Editor Bob Lang likes the Progressor for
the most common style on the market.
15
At bottom is the Bosch T234X (my favorite) and straight cuts, but prefers the T101BR for
Popular Woodworking
Magazine at the top in the T101BR (Bob’s favorite). Note curves where the Progessor is too “bitey”
icandothatextras.com that mine is bigger. and “rough.”
Miter Saw
These saws were once the provenance
of the high-end finish carpenter. Then
the rough carpenters started using them
(where they’re called “chop saws”) as did
the furniture makers. Each profession
chapter 1.3 leans on a different feature of the tool
Your basic 10" miter saw is accurate
enough and durable enough for a
■ jigsaw to do their work. Finish carpenters like lifetime of woodworking. Beware of
■ miter saw
■ circular saw the combination of portability and low-priced saws, even from national
accuracy. Carpenters like their speed brands. One of the ways they lower
the price is by equipping the saw
and power. Furnituremakers like their with a poor-quality blade. You’ll have
accuracy and safety compared to a radial- to replace that blade immediately,
arm saw (sometimes called the “radical- and that almost always negates the
harm saw”). price savings.
These tools are rarely perfect out of the
box. They require tweaking for furniture
work, plus they require a different way of
working that we’ll discuss later. But they
are by and large incredible tools once you
understand a few things.
16
Popular Woodworking
Magazine
icandothatextras.com
Styles of Miter Saw saws are as expensive as a good entry-level
There are three major saws in the miter table saw. And most of the features are
saw family: little-used by a furniture-maker.
■ Straight Miter Saw: This saw makes So which saw do you need? Really?
miters at any angle, usually between 47° Probably just a straight miter saw. These
left and 47° right at minimum. The cut are getting harder to find these days, so
chapter 1.3 this saw makes will always be 90° to the you might have to step up to a compound
■ jigsaw face of the work. miter saw. And even these are getting
■ miter saw
■ circular saw ■ Compound Miter Saw: This saw cheap. Thanks to overseas manufacturing,
does everything a straight miter saw I’ve seen good 10" compound miter saws
does, plus the head tips left and right to for about $100 or a little more. What about
make “compound” cuts. Compound cuts the blade size? The 12" saws are notably
are when you make a cut that is angled more expensive, though it’s nice for the
in two directions, across the face of the occasional cut where you really need the
board and across its thickness. This is extra width. However, we honestly think
mostly a feature used by trim carpenters you can get by just fine with a 10" saw.
for installing crown moulding. The heads
can tilt one direction (right) or both (left Important Features
and right). These saws can be loaded with extras,
■ Sliding Compound Miter Saw: This so let’s cut through the clutter here. Two
saw does everything the above saws do, things are really important with this tool.
but it also runs on a sliding carriage, First, it has to have a decent carbide- A carbide blade on top of a steel blade. Luckily,
the steel blades are becoming more difficult to
17 which allows you to cut wide boards – tooth blade that is capable of making find, even on the cheaper saws. If you see a steel
Popular Woodworking
Magazine most of these saws will cut a 12"-wide clean finish cuts. Look for a blade with blade, don’t buy it unless you need something to
icandothatextras.com board; some go as far up as 16". These at least 40 teeth (and as many as 80). The chew up your work in an unacceptable manner.
more teeth you have the smoother the
cut, but having more teeth slows the cut
and increases the chance you’ll burn the
work. And if you fall for a cheap saw that
comes with a high-speed steel blade, you’ll
be upgrading it immediately and probably
chapter 1.3 spending a good deal more money than
■ jigsaw you have to.
■ miter saw
■ circular saw Second, you need a saw that is easy
to adjust so the blade is 90° to the fence.
Note that I’m not talking about the little
handle up front that allows you to swing
the head left and right. I’m talking about
adjusting the tool so that when the head
is locked at 90° it makes a perfect 90° cut.
Sometimes you have to adjust the fence
behind the blade, sometimes you adjust
the points where the head locks down. We
prefer this second method of adjusting the
saw because it is faster and it doesn’t ever
result in you bending the fence. I’ve bent The fences on these saws can be bent during A less-common problem is that the fence isn’t
a couple, even while being careful. And assembly. When you get your saw out of the square to the table. Check this along several
box, check the fence with your square to ensure points on the fence. A twisted fence will wreak
18 when the fence is bent, you’ll never get a it’s straight. If it’s not, take the saw back and havoc with your accuracy.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine square cut on both sides of the blade. exchange it. A bent fence is almost impossible to
icandothatextras.com Follow the manufacturer’s directions fix and will cause a lifetime of headaches.
for squaring up the tool, and then make
a sample cut and check it with your
combination square. This brings us to
another critical aspect of miter saws: How
you make the cut. I’ve found that the No.
1 cause of errors in this tool is not that
chapter 1.3 the fence is off, it’s that the work has
■ jigsaw shifted slightly during the cut, spoiling
■ miter saw
■ circular saw your accuracy.
The problem is these tools have fences
and tables that are make of machined
aluminum, which is slippery. So it’s quite
difficult to hold your work perfectly
during the cut. It’s possible, of course,
just difficult. Some manufacturers supply
a hold-down clamp to secure the work
against the table. These can be slow and
can get in the way. The best solution I’ve
found is to apply a layer of #120-grit peel-
and-stick sandpaper to both sides of the
fence. This works wonders.
The other way to spoil your accuracy is
Personally, I don’t understand why they make the table and fence so smooth and slippery. Their job is to
19 by taking too light of a cut and taking it support and grip the work. Even after using these tools for 13 years, I still struggle with keeping the work
Popular Woodworking
Magazine too fast. For example, let’s say you want to immobilized as I cut it. If it shifts even a tiny bit during the cut, your cut won’t be square. Adding a bit of
icandothatextras.com trim 1 ⁄32" off the end of a board. You line self-stick sandpaper to the fence works wonders.
up the board as best you can and make
your cut. It’s not a lot of material so you
make the cut quickly. Sometimes, not
always, the blade can deflect out when you
do this. This results in a cut that is not
90° to the face of the board. If you need
chapter 1.3 to make a cut like this, take it a bit slower,
■ jigsaw which will keep the blade true.
■ miter saw
■ circular saw The bottom line with this tool is it’s
always best to check your work, especially
if you don’t have some sort of stop to
constrain it from slipping around. So
cut each joint and try each joint. You’ll
be fine.
Other features of miter saws are less Here’s a common operation with a miter saw – trying to remove just a bit to sneak up on a cutline. If
important. We haven’t become fans of you make this cut too fast (especially in hardwoods or thick stock), then the blade can deflect. Though
it seems like you’re making a light cut, slow down and take this operation a little slower than usual and
lasers on these saws yet. That may change,
check the cut across the thickness to ensure everything’s OK.
however, once they get them working just
right. The raw amperage of these saws is
mostly a non-issue. Almost all of them with no complaint. The dust collection feature. There are also high fences (best
list their power as 15 amps, which is the on all of them is quite poor – learn to for crown moulding) and gizmos that
maximum for a typical 120-volt household live with it. allow you to micro-adjust your miter
20 circuit and plug. All of the saws we’ve A few saws allow you to do stop cuts settings. These are not deal-breakers (or
Popular Woodworking
Magazine tested, even the cheapies, have enough to make grooves or trenches across your deal-makers).
icandothatextras.com power to cut standard material thicknesses work. You’ll probably never use this
Circular Saw in thickness set at 90º, and 3 ⁄4" when due to their design. The motor sits behind
When we decided on the list of power angled at 45º. So, it’s obvious this saw is the blade, which is driven by a “worm”
tools for our toolkit, we selected the jigsaw not the one for your shop. You’ll find that gear (it looks like a curled worm.) These
over the circular saw. But there are many a 61 ⁄2" saw just clears a 11 ⁄2" cut at 90° but saws provide a good line of sight while
instances where the circular saw would because the size is a bit odd, you may have cutting and will extend your reach across
be the best choice; straight-line rips and trouble locating blades. sheet goods, but they are more expensive
chapter 1.3 cutting plywood are the most relevant. So The most popular size of circular saw than sidewinders. And, because the worm-
■ jigsaw we decided that the circular saw would is the 71 ⁄4". Any store that carries circular drive saw is a much heavier saw – 14 to
miter saw
■
■ circular saw
have to be the first power tool added to saws will have a complete line of 71 ⁄4" 16 pounds – they can be awkward to use
that original list. saws from which to choose, as well as a because they tend to be front heavy.
There is much to consider when number of different blades designs (we’ll Sidewinders, so named because the
selecting a circular saw, the first of which discuss those in moment). The depth of motor sits beside the blade, are the most
is the saw’s size. The size of the saw is cut with the 71 ⁄4" saw at both 90º and common configuration. Sidewinders
described in terms of blade diameter. 45º is more than required. This saw provide a better balance in your hand
You’ll find saws that are from 43⁄8" to 101 ⁄4" meets or exceeds the requirements of because the handle is directly above the
with a number of entries between. most woodworking so there is no need to motor. Bottom line: We recommend a
So, how do you choose? To begin, take look into beefier models that are heavier 71 ⁄4" in-line saw.
a look at the depth of cut that can be and higher in cost – not to mention they
made with the saw set at 90º and at 45º. can become unwieldy. What to Look For in a Saw
As you begin building projects from this So where do you go from here? What
series you’ll find that your materials will Saw Designs about the power? Most saws boast of
be mostly 3 ⁄4" or 11 ⁄2" thick. So, the need Circular saws are divided into two general amps. The 71 ⁄4" saws generally have a 13-
21 to cut these materials should inform your categories – worm drives and in-line saws, to 15-amp motor. Amps relate only the
Popular Woodworking
Magazine purchase. also known as sidewinders. amount of electricity that the tools use,
icandothatextras.com A 43 ⁄8" circular saw will cut only 11 ⁄4" Worm drives are easily recognizable not the power sent to the blade. Is that
shoes that are aluminum or magnesium
as well as plastic and other material. Our
recommendation is to stay away from the
plastic shoes and look for a metal base;
cast metal would be best. A shoe with ribs
will have added reinforcement in case
chapter 1.3 (or when) you drop the saw to the floor
■ jigsaw – but that added strength adds weight
■ miter saw
■ circular saw to the tool.
The overall weight of the saw will
affect comfort, and that is also an issue
in choosing your saw. Also, check the
Not only can you see the difference between the worm drive saw (left) and the sidewinder (right), it is handle positioning and the balance of
obvious that the sidewinder will be a lighter, more easily controlled saw. the saw. Making sure that the saw fits your
hands and feels comfortable while in use
is key in the selection process.
good, or is horsepower better? Horsepower nor be able to withstand the rigors of the Nex t yo u ne e d t o lo o k at t he
is generally measured when the saw is woodworking shop. They would be great adju st ment s of t he saw. T he t wo
not in a real-world cutting situation. for a homeowner looking to use the saw adjustments are depth of cut and angle.
This too, is not an informative basis for occasionally. You’ll find knobs, levers and wing nuts
comparison. The better way to select a used to allow these adjustments. Large
saw is by price. A good sidewinder for Comparison Shopping knobs and smartly placed levers will make
22 woodworking will set you back around In side-by-side comparisons of saws, begin the adjustment both quick and accurate.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine $100 to $150. Sure, there are saws that cost with an inspection of the saw’s shoe – Small, out-of-the-way levers and wing nuts
icandothatextras.com less, but they aren’t going to last a lifetime the bottom plate of the saw. You can find are less handy.
is the best option. This feature locks the toward the operator. This is dangerous.
shaft from rotating, allowing easy use of There are many choices when selecting
a wrench to remove the arbor nut. a blade for your circular saw. First, you
should always use a blade that is sized for
About Battery Power your saw – if you have a 71 ⁄4" saw, use a
The battery-powered saws are new in 71 ⁄4" blade. Installing a smaller-diameter
chapter 1.3 design (because the battery technology blade will not allow the saw to develop
■ jigsaw has advanced) and look inviting. However, the rim speed needed for the machine to
miter saw
■
■ circular saw
we suggest avoiding these for your work at its full potential.
woodworking toolkit. They might Second, base your blade decision on the
be fine for the homeowner but the type of work the blade will perform. If you’re
cutting power and length of time you rough-cutting lumber, a 24-tooth carbide
can use the tool are greatly reduced. blade would be right. But, using that blade
What could be worse than having the to cut veneer-faced plywood would result
piece ready to cut and finding out that in a massive amount of tear-out.
Large knobs can makes adjustments quick and the entire project needs to be put on hold There are blades that have 16, 18, 24,
easy when adjusting the depth or angle of cut.
because the battery on your saw is low? 40 or 60 (teeth and some in between, I’m
Corded saws are the way to go. sure). There are blades for plywood as well
The last issue to consider is how easy as masonry. You have to decide how the
it is to change the blade. We’ve seen saws A Word About Blades saw will be used in order to select the
that require you to insert a nail through A sharp blade is very important when correct blade. Our toolkit would have a
a hole in the blade to lock the blade. Or using a circular saw. Dull blades are one 24-tooth carbide blade (carbide tips on
23 worse yet, to hold the blade as you try to of the causes of kickback, which is when the teeth will stay sharp longer) for rough-
Popular Woodworking
Magazine release the arbor nut. These are not the the blade catches the wood but instead of cutting stock and a 40-tooth carbide blade
icandothatextras.com best scenarios. A shaft-lock mechanism cutting the piece, the saw is propelled back for the finish cuts.
Properly setting
The cut made with a circular saw
the depth of cut
should not be considered the last step in will help extend
the milling process. A hand plane should the life of the
be used to fine-tune most of the edges for blade and lessen
better-quality results. the possibility of
kickback.
chapter 1.3 Using the Circular Saw
■ jigsaw There are a few basic guidelines for using
■ miter saw
■ circular saw a circular saw. Adjust the depth of cut
prior to cutting any material. Loosen
the knob or lever and raise or lower the
shoe until the blade is between 1 ⁄8" – 1 ⁄4"
beyond the lower edge of the material to
be cut. Remember to tighten the depth let the blade make contact with the wood of the board. This tool is designed to cut
knob before beginning the cut. Setting until the blade has reached full speed. through material resulting in one piece
the depth of cut too deep could lead to Move through the cut with the motor/ – the waste – falling away.
binding and kickback. base resting on the “good” side of the To cut the end off of a board, make
Because the circular saw cuts with the workpiece, not the “waste” material side sure to have the waste material extended
blade coming up through the material, it and do not remove the tool from the past any supporting surface. As the cut is
is best to cut with the face side, or best workpiece before the blade has come to finished the waste will fall away. In cutting
side, down. Any tear-out would then be a complete stop. sheet goods you may not want the waste
on the back side of the material and away Another good rule of thumb is to have to fall. In this case, support the work
24 from sight. your workpiece properly supported. This from below using several long lengths of
Popular Woodworking
Magazine Always start the saw with the front of does not mean laying the workpiece across scrap so the work is fully supported. Some
icandothatextras.com the shoe resting on the workpiece; don’t two sawhorses while cutting the middle people cut sheet goods on top of 4' x 8'
foam insulation board. Either way, set your use the “gun shot” to help guide the tool.
cutting depth so you don’t cut through The “gun shot” is a notch in the saw’s shoe
your support below your work. that aligns with the edge of the blade.
Maneuvering the saw while keeping the
Making the Cuts Freehand notch at the line will provide a straight
Many of the cuts made with the circular cut – as long as you started the cut at the
chapter 1.3 saw will be freehand cuts. This is where line to begin with.
■ jigsaw the saw is guided by hand and eye, not with
miter saw
Cutting with Fences and Guides
■
27
Popular Woodworking
Magazine The jig has a wide fence to make clamping easy. Because this jig was created using the circular saw,
icandothatextras.com whenever we clamp the jig exactly at the cut line, the result will be straight and on the layout line.
Boring Tools – power drill, awl
1. 4
drill; maybe it’s a cordless drill. If I had you probably should buy a 9.6-volt or 12-
chapter
to own only one drill it would probably volt model. These tools generally satisfy
■ power drill be a cordless drill because these tend to all those requirements above – except
awl
they typically only hold bits up to 3 ⁄8" in
■
have clutches and different speed ranges
that make them ideal for driving screws diameter, which is OK. Heavy drills
in addition to drilling holes. However, (such as 18-volt drills) are hard to
nothing beats the raw and unlimited wield with any finesse. And you
power of a corded drill. A handful of the are so rarely far away from your
corded drills have clutches and speed charger while you’re in the
settings, and I don’t know why there shop that the run-time
aren’t more around. Probably because we issue is moot.
love cordless drills – they’re probably the
hottest-selling tool on the market.
There are a lot of factors to consider
when buying a drill because we use drills I got by for years and years with
for so many different things. I’m going a corded drill alone. Once I finally
bought a cordless drill, I was glad I’d
to tell you what’s important for building
made the upgrade. Not only do you lose
28 furniture. First, you need a drill that is the cord, but you gain some features, such as
Popular Woodworking
Magazine lightweight, balanced and will hold all control over your top speed and a clutch that
icandothatextras.com the bits you need, from the tiniest wire prevents you from over-torquing your screws.
You need variable speed. This is found Though the keyless chuck might
on all but the cheapest tools. Variable not hold as tightly as a keyed
speed is where the more you pull the one, this is almost never an
trigger, the more rpm you get. You want issue. The keyless chucks
your drill to ramp up smoothly, though no hold plenty tight enough and
1. 4
drill is perfect in this department. are so much faster and easier to use
chapter
A keyless chuck is a desirable feature. than their keyed cousins. While you’re
■ power drill examining the chuck, take a look at the
■ awl
three jaws that grab the bit. Close the
chuck on itself and take a look at where
the three jaws meet. The best chucks will
have a seamless fit. When the jaws come
together they will look like one piece of
solid metal. Lesser chucks will have a gap
at the center. This gap will prevent the
chuck from closing on small bits. Most of
the time, this is not important, but when
you need a tiny hole …
Let’s talk a minute about clutch setting
When you’re in the store, close the chuck of the and speed ranges. These are important Maybe the big drill doesn’t look so big to you
drill that you’re considering and take a look at “finesse” settings that you’ll become here. Just wait until you have to heft this thing
how closely the jaws close. The best chucks will up for the hundredth time above your head. Then
more sensitive to the more you use your
close down to nothing. The lamest ones will allow you’ll want the wussy 9.6-volt drill. If you work
29 you to get a toothpick in there. The tight jaws will drill. Most drills (with a couple notable far away from your battery charger (like on an oil
Popular Woodworking
Magazine let you grab the smaller bits that are occasionally exceptions) have two speed settings, low derrick) then get the big drill; otherwise, smaller
icandothatextras.com important for woodworking. and high. In general, the low setting is for is generally better (and cheaper!).
driving screws and the high settings are notches and try again. When the screw
for boring holes. That’s simple enough. seats where I want it, I’ll drive all the
Then you have the clutch of the drill to screws for that project.
consider. The clutch has more settings One last detail on the clutch: I don’t
than any reasonable person needs. Perhaps much use it in the high-speed range.
1. 4
manufacturers see it as a way to get the Most drills have a setting on the clutch
chapter
upper hand on competitors. I just wish I designed specifically for drilling bits. So
power drill
■
didn’t have to do as much fiddling and I recommend you set your speed range to
■ awl
clicking to get the right clutch setting. high, set your clutch to the drilling setting
What does the clutch setting do? It’s for then go for it.
driving screws. When you reach a certain The list of things you don’t need on a
amount of torque, the clutch disengages drill is quite long. Wrist strap? No. Bubble
the motor from the chuck to stop the level? Nope. Work light? Not likely. Laser?
Setting the clutch as shown will disengage the
spinning action. This disengagement can Please! Focus on the attributes that are clutch, allowing you to drill at full power and
prevent you from making some critical important and you won’t go wrong when speed. This is in the drill’s instruction booklet that
mistakes, such as snapping or stripping a picking a drill. you threw away.
screw’s head. Or driving it too deeply in
softwoods – perhaps to the point where Another Type of Cordless Drill
the screw won’t hold. Sometimes the easiest, fastest way to do for many things – marking lines that won’t
How do you use the clutch? Here’s a task is to use a hand tool instead of a smudge or disappear, poking holes in the
how I do it: When I’m driving a bunch power tool. Making small holes to get a rim of a paint can so that the overflow
of screws into a cabinet back or the like, screw started is an excellent example of from your brush doesn’t spill over the
30 I’ll set the clutch setting really low. When this principle. One of the tools in your kit side, marking holes to be drilled with a
Popular Woodworking
Magazine I drive the first screw I’m unlikely to fully should be the simple, versatile awl. power drill, and making pilot holes for
icandothatextras.com seat it. So I click the clutch over a couple You can use the pointed end of the awl woodscrews.
You won’t be faced with many choices so that you can push the point in to the
when you go to buy an awl; there are basic wood with the palm of your hand.
ones at the local hardware store and The awls in the photo show a common
fancy ones from mail-order woodworking variation in the handles of awls as well as
suppliers. The steel should be straight and many other woodworking tools. The awl in
1. 4
stiff, and it should be firmly attached to the bottom of the photo has two flat sides,
chapter
the handle. Start with an inexpensive awl. while the other one has a round handle.
■ power drill After using it for awhile, you’ll find your The round handle is more comfortable,
■ awl
personal likes and dislikes. You also may but it can roll away when put down on a
eventually find that you want two. flat surface.
Machinists use awls for scratching The other difference is in the way
lines, and awls intended for this purpose that the very tip of the awl is shaped and
will have a handle like a screwdriver. For sharpened – and this is the reason you’ll
woodworking, you want a bulbous end likely want two. One shape works best
for marking, and the other works best for The faceted point on the left makes the awl an
efficient tool for making a small hole.
drilling small holes.The most commonly
The shorter awl has flats on the seen point tapers like a pencil point.
handle that prevent it from rolling This is an advantage if you are using it To make a pilot hole with the round-tip
around when put down.
to scratch a line on your work. awl, place it in the center of the opening
The other point style is faceted. I took and push down. You won’t be able to go
a small mill file, and in a few minutes very deep because the wood fibers will
filed four facets on a round-point awl. crush and fill the hole. While using the
31 These straight edges will provide faceted tip, twist the tip as you push down.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine a cutting action when making a The corners of the facets will cut the wood
icandothatextras.com pilot hole for a screw. in the hole, letting you go deeper.
Finishing Tools – rasp, file, sander, block plane
■ block plane truth be told, I do very little sanding in my pick up without a lot of instruction. The
Good sanding is the modern foundation shop, but that’s because I’ve spent years downsides to sanding with a machine
of a good finish. And a good finish can using hand planes, learning to sharpen are that it’s mind-numbing work and
generates a lot of unhealthy dust.
So if you want to start building today,
you are going to need a sander. Don’t
buy a belt sander – that’s for hogging
material off. Don’t buy a pad sander.
These vibrating tools use sheets of
sandpaper and aren’t very aggressive. Buy
a random-orbit sander. These high-tech
tools are a marvel. Though they have a
disk that spins rapidly, it’s also wiggling
Random-orbit sanders are eccentrically. The result is that the tools
excellent fine-finishing
35
tools for the money and strike a nice balance between aggressively
Popular Woodworking
Magazine they don’t require a lot of removing stock and leaving a fine finished
icandothatextras.com skill to learn. surface.
There are three body styles available: So what should you look for when
the small palm-grip tools, the big right- buying a random-orbit sander? Here’s
angle tools (that look like an angle the funny thing, I have yet to find one I
grinder) and an intermediate tool that’s really dislike. They all work pretty well.
between the two. I have used them all Some vibrate a little more, some are a
and recommend you get a palm-grip little slower, but they all pretty much do
chapter 1.5 tool for furniture work. It’s inexpensive, the job. These tools don’t have a lot of
■ rasp & file the 5"-diameter sandpaper is available bells and whistles available, so I think
■ sander
■ block plane everywhere and the tool is lightweight you can buy a basic tool and be just fine.
enough to use one-handed and get you in Some of them are variable speed – I have
tight spots. The bigger tools are better for yet to find a moment where I thought to
sanding big tabletops and the like. myself: “Boy, I sure wish I could slow down
the sanding process so I could really enjoy After some experience with these sanders, you’ll
it.” I’m sure there’s some delicate jobs that want to hook it up to a shop vacuum. The dust
benefit from this feature, but I think you’ll this tool makes is the worst. It’s unhealthy and
be hard-pressed to say it’s essential. annoying. Adding a vacuum and hose to your
sander will make your sanding faster (because
T he s e to ol s don’t h ave l a s er s,
the dust won’t interfere) and (almost) pleasant.
worklights or wrist-straps (yet), so that’s
not a consideration. But one thing you
should pay close attention to is the dust get the upgraded filters for the vacuum and
collection. Dust collection on almost all buy the hoses that attach it to the sander.
of these machines is a spotty business, and If you can’t afford a shop vacuum, then
Generally, the variable-speed feature is
36
unnecessary on a random-orbit sander. The only
sanding kicks up a lot of the dangerous you need a face mask that filters out this
Popular Woodworking
Magazine time I’ve slowed down the tool is when I was dust – the sub-micron stuff that gets lodged nasty dust. And not just a paper mask –
icandothatextras.com dealing with some really thin veneer. That’s it. in your lungs. If you own a shop vacuum, I’m talking about a mask that’s NIOSH
approved. These are available at the and move it around until everything is on the work. It’s tempting to sometimes
home centers and are essential sanding consistently sanded right? There actually tip the tool so one edge of the pad is
equipment. is a little more to it than that, and proper contacting the work so you can work a
T he other consideration is the use of the tool will ensure you get the job small area of tear-out. This will work with
sandpaper. Sandpaper can be expensive, done in short order. a little skill and if the tear-out is shallow.
but there’s nothing more expensive First thing to know: hand pressure. Try If it’s deep tear-out or you linger too long,
chapter 1.5 than cheap sandpaper. The quality stuff not to bear down too hard on the tool you will create a valley in the work that
■ rasp & file (Norton 3X and Klingspor are both good while you are working. It’s tempting to do may not be evident until you put a shiny
■ sander
■ block plane brands) lasts a long time. I think you really this when you’re sanding a rough patch, finish on the work.
need three grits to handle most project but it’s not so good for the tool and there’s Second thing: Don’t move too fast.
building. Get #100- or #120-grit paper for a risk of you going too far when you get Zipping around a board with a sander
your coarse grit. Buy the most discs of this rowdy. Similarly, try to keep the tool flat doesn’t do the job. Manufacturers
grit because you will go through a lot of
it. Do as much sanding with this grit as
you can because it does the job fast. Then
get a smaller quantity of #150-grit paper
for your medium grit. This intermediate
grit goes pretty quickly if you did a good
job with the coarse grit. And then get a
small quantity of #220-grit paper. Again,
if you did a good job in the earlier grits,
the #220 work will go quite fast. You’ll need the biggest supply of #120-grit
sandpaper (left) because it does the most work
37 People sometimes laugh when they and needs to be replaced more regularly. You’ll
Popular Woodworking
Magazine hear there is a proper way to sand. After need less of the #150 (middle) and even less of
icandothatextras.com all, you simply put the tool on the work the #220.
recommend moving the tool about a foot Again, you’ll do most of the work with
every 10 seconds (at least, that’s what a the coarse grits. But how do you know
couple engineers told me). I think that’s when to switch to a higher grit? Once the
too slow to be practical – try it and I think workpiece looks consistently scratched to
you’ll agree. I go faster – maybe a foot the naked eye, I’ll take a desk lamp with
every seven seconds. a movable head or one of the yellow job-
chapter 1.5 T hird: Work each su r face i n a site lights and position it so there’s a low,
■ rasp & file consistent pattern. I like to work a panel raking light across the work and give it a
■ sander
■ block plane left to right, slightly overlapping my passes. quick look. The raking light will point out
Then I come back and work the panel any dings or divots or tear-out you missed
front to back in this way. This ensures I as areas in shadow. If the board looks good
don’t miss any spots. under raking light, then switch grits.
Block Plane
Buying and sharpening a block plane is
probably the most involved task we’re
going to ask of you as you get started in
the craft. The barrier here is sharpening
the blade – lots of woodworkers get tied
up in knots about this simple and very
important skill. Here’s the promise: Once
you learn to sharpen a single woodworking
tool, the same principles will allow you Block planes are commonly available. Paying a
to sharpen a lot of other things: chisels, little more will add some nice features – a blade
Always “break” the edges of your work before adjuster, a mouth that you can close up for high-
39
finishing. This makes your project nicer to the
carving gouges, all manner of plane tolerance work and the blade pitched at a lower
Popular Woodworking
Magazine touch and makes your edges less susceptible to blades, turning tools, marking knives angle. That said, even the cheap ones work well
icandothatextras.com damage. and so on. on softwoods when sharpened.
act of sharpening is simply the abrading Disassemble the block plane and clean
of those two planes until they meet at the off the cutter. Notice that one end is
smallest point possible. That’s it. wedge-shaped. This is called the “bevel” of
Like sanding, you start sharpening the cutter. The flat part of the cutter that
with a coarse grit and move up in grits. intersects the bevel is called the “back”
You can use almost any medium to of the blade. The back and the bevel are
chapter 1.5 sharpen. Sandpaper works well as you’re the two “planes” of your cutting edge and
■ rasp & file learning. You’ll also find diamond stones are what is to be abraded.
■ sander
■ block plane and oilstones at the home center. Pick a Begin with the back. There’s a lot of
system that fits your budget. If there’s an metal here. Abrading all that metal flat
oilstone that has coarse grit on one side would be a massive task. Remember that
and fine grit on the other, that’s what only the very end of the back is what
I’d get. Sometimes it’s called an “India” does the cutting. That’s all you need to
stone. Buy a little 3-in-1 oil and you’re worry about. So we’re going to cheat so
in business. that we work only that area (and get to
work much faster). Take a thin, cheap 6"
The Basic Strokes ruler and stick it along one edge of your
There are lots of good books and web sharpening stone. Now rub the back of
sites that can help you with sharpening. the cutter on the stone with the cutting
I’m going to tell you here how to get a edge on the stone and the back part of
good working edge that will get you the cutter propped up on the ruler. The
started cutting pine and other work-a-day ruler holds the back end of the cutter in
By propping up the back of the blade as you work
40 woods. My personal sharpening regimen is the air so you work only the area up by the back, you’ll greatly speed the polishing action
Popular Woodworking
Magazine different, but everyone’s is. The following the edge. of this critical surface. The ruler ensures that every
icandothatextras.com requires the absolute fewest tools. If you use the ruler in the same way time you do this it will be consistent.
every time you sharpen you’ll find that good; that means you really sharpened Setting a block plane is pretty easy.
the angle stays the same. This is called up at the tip of the tool. Work the bevel You want to project the iron equally all
the “ruler trick” and it was developed by some more with your coarse stone and across the mouth. Turn the tool’s adjuster
British craftsman David Charlesworth. It’s then your fine stone until your scratches to project the blade until it looks like it’s
a big time-saver. Use the “ruler trick” on look good. At the very end, you want just starting to emerge. You can feel this by
the coarse side of the stone and then on to remove the burr. Put the ruler back passing your fingers lightly over the mouth
chapter 1.5 the fine. Look at the cutter, the scratches on your fine stone and stroke the iron or by sighting down the sole of the plane
■ rasp & file should be consistent and the metal should over the stone and ruler – this is called head-on. Then use a little scrap of wood
■ sander
■ block plane be shinier than when you started. “backing off.” Wipe down the blade and to confirm your setting. Rub the block
Now turn your attention to the bevel. reassemble the tool. over the mouth. You should feel it drag as
This is the part that trips people up
because they have trouble balancing the
Learning to hone the
tool on the narrow bevel on the stone. I bevel takes a little
like to use a little jig to hold the cutter practice. Take it slow
for this part, but if you don’t have a jig, and check your work
it’s still easy to pick up the skill. Start at frequently. A honing
the far end of the stone. Rest the tool’s guide is a good $12
investment if you can
bevel flat on the stone (don’t forget the find one at your home
oil). Now raise the tool up just a tad so center.
you’re working only at the tip. Drag the
tool toward you. Lift up and repeat the
stroke about four or five times.
41 Now feel the back of the blade with
Popular Woodworking
Magazine your thumb. There should be a little burr
icandothatextras.com of metal curled over on the back. That’s
A small block of wood
the iron removes a tiny shaving. And you
can check the setting of
should be able to hear it. Try it in several your plane’s iron. If the
places along the mouth. If the drag feels block of wood has the
the same and the sound is the same, then same amount of drag all
your iron is square in the mouth. across the mouth, then
your blade is centered
Using a block plane is a one- or two-
chapter 1.5 handed operation – I prefer to use two
in the mouth and is
projecting squarely –
■ rasp & file hands as much as possible. Once you get to work!
■ sander
■ block plane sharpen it up, you’ll find endless uses for
it. After you rip a board with your jigsaw,
the block plane cleans up the sawblade
marks, making the edge ready to finish Note the grain on the
(no sanding necessary). If two parts of a face of the board. See
joint aren’t in line with one another, the how it is heading up
toward the edge being
block plane can trim the proud surface planed? Think of those
flush. grain lines as fur. If the
One thing you should be aware of is tool is pushing them
that you will have better results if you cut down as it works, the
“with the grain.” Think of each board chances are your cut will
be sweet.
like a furry animal – the grain lines are
the fur. If your tool is pressing down the
fur as you cut, it’s like petting an animal
42 correctly. If you rub (or cut) the wrong
Popular Woodworking
Magazine way then the animal will get mad and
icandothatextras.com the work will tear out.
Joinery Tools – biscuit joiner, pocket hole jig
52
Popular Woodworking
Magazine The long driver bit that comes in the kit keeps the
icandothatextras.com drill chuck away from the wood.
Fastening Tools – hammer, screwdriver
1. 7
these are two tools you’ll never outgrow,
chapter
you should select your first hammer and
■ hammer screwdriver with care.
■ screwdriver
A good wooden-
Hammer and Nail Set handled hammer and
a few nail sets can
You’d think that there isn’t much to be serve you for a lifetime.
said about buying a hammer. It’s just a Avoid the fiberglass and
metal rock on a stick, right? Well yes, but metal hammers. They
buying the wrong hammer will trip you are not as forgiving on
up. Buy a hammer for making furniture, your joints (as in your
shoulder and elbow).
not some hammer for chipping rocks. We
recommend a claw hammer that has a
head that weighs 16 oz. and has a wooden and finish it to your liking. Sanding it nicely There are other things to look for, too.
handle. up to #220 grit and then adding a coat of The business end of a hammer can be flat
The all-metal and composite hammers wax or linseed oil will result in a hammer or slightly bellied. Go for the hammer
work, but I find them less forgiving on your that is a joy to pick up. Seriously. Most with the bellied face – sometimes called
elbows and arms. I get sore a lot faster. The new woodworkers are loathe to modify or a bell face. This results in fewer mis-
53 wooden hammers are, by and large, cheaper, improve the wooden handles of the tools. strikes and allows you to drive the nail
Popular Woodworking
Magazine too. And here’s another bonus: You can sand Hello? That’s why they’re made of wood – in much closer to flush than a flat-faced
icandothatextras.com off the junky, gloppy finish on the handle so you can make them suit you. tool will.
Also, look at the claw. Does it stick a crowbar. You want the claw to curve grasp the end of the handle to get more
straight out, almost straight out or does down – this gives you more leverage to bang when driving a nail. If you’re after
it curve down back toward the handle? If remove a nail. more control, choke up toward the middle
it doesn’t curve much it’s called a “ripping Using a hammer is straightforward, but of the handle and extend your thumb up
hammer.” These hammers are used for keep these tips in mind. There are two the handle. This will reduce the force
1. 7
disassembling things – the claw is actually basic grips. One is the power stroke. You you transmit into the nail (which can be
chapter
■ hammer
■ screwdriver
54 This is the power stroke with a hammer. When you build a deck, or really By choking up on the handle you can gain some finesse and reduce the force
Popular Woodworking
Magazine need to wallop something, grip the tool at the end of the handle. Sticking (sometimes a good thing, really). Note again the position of my thumb.
icandothatextras.com your thumb out will help steady the tool a bit.
a good thing) and it will help keep your thickness – an 8d nail for 1" stock. A 6d remember about using a nail set: When
strikes where you intended them to be. nail for 3 ⁄4". you hold it, I find it’s best to keep the
Also, there’s a lot of confusion about 3. For softwoods (white pine), select a edge of your hand against your work –
how to buy nails. Most places denote nail that’s one penny larger. For harder don’t suspend your hand in space as you
the length of a nail using the English woods (maple), use one penny smaller. grip the set. Grasp the nail set between
1. 7
pennyweight system. The origin of This seems complex at first, but it quickly your thumb and forefingers. Whack away
chapter
“pennyweight” is a mite murky, so let’s becomes second nature. until the nail head is 1 ⁄16" to 1 ⁄8" below
■ hammer stick to the facts. Pennyweight is denoted Once you drive a nail into your work, the surface of the wood.
■ screwdriver
by “d.” So a two-penny nail is 2d. And a you’ll almost always want to “set” the nail
2d nail is 1" long. For every penny you so the head is slightly below the surface. Screwdriver
add, the nail gets 1 ⁄4" longer. So a 3d nail Then, for nice pieces, you’ll putty the One of the easiest mistakes to make
is 11 ⁄4" long. A 4d nail is 11 ⁄2" long. A 5d hole. The tool to do this is a “nail set,” when buying tools is to snap up a bargain
nail is 13 ⁄4" long. And so on. which essentially is a pointy steel rod. thinking you are getting all the tools you
You select your nail’s length based on The shaft is knurled so you can hold will ever need in one decisive move. This
the thickness and density of board you onto the tool easily. The tips come in a is especially true with screwdrivers. In the
are fastening in place to another board. variety of shapes and sizes. Because nail tool aisle there will always be a great deal
Here’s how the old rule works: sets are inexpensive, buy a variety of sizes, on a complete set of screwdrivers. If you
1. Determine the thickness of your mostly ones with small tips, which are aren’t sure what you need, and what the
board in eighths of an inch. For example, suited for woodworking (as opposed to difference is between a good quality tool
a 1"-thick board would be eight-eighths. deck building). Get at least one nail set and a poor one, it’s tempting to spend $20
A 3 ⁄4"-thick board would be six-eighths. that has a cone-shaped tip. Some finishing for a set of screwdrivers, especially when a
And so on. nails have a matching depression on their single screwdriver might cost $7 or $8.
55 2. For a wood of medium density heads and the cone-like tip helps secure You will need the ability to drive and
Popular Woodworking
Magazine (walnut or cherry, for example), pick a the nail set as you strike it. remove several different sizes and types of
icandothatextras.com nail where the pennyweight matches that There are only a couple things to screws, but you don’t want to buy a cheap
set and you don’t want to spend a small The tip of any screwdriver is the part quick, inexpensive solution. You should
fortune buying a bunch of individual tools. that takes all the abuse from the twisting pick up a set of bits of different sizes and
What makes the most sense is to invest forces exerted on it. The screwdrivers that types, but once again you should avoid
in a good-quality handle that will hold come in sets won’t last very long. If you the temptation of buying a cheap set that
different driver bits. Look for one that buy an inexpensive set, you will soon find includes everything you’ll ever need in
1. 7
holds the same short bits that are used yourself the owner of several screwdrivers
chapter
for driving screws with a cordless drill. with damaged tips (the ones you need to
■ hammer The one in the picture has been in use use most often) and a few good ones you
■ screwdriver
for more than 10 years, and stores extra likely won’t ever need. When you try to
bits in the handle. It replaced a drawer use the good ones you have left you will
full of miscellaneous screwdrivers. find they are a little smaller than they
should be to fit the screw. This in turn
will damage these drivers (or the screws)
and eventually you will have 15 or 20
tools that are only useful for prying open
paint cans.
If you’re using individual bits, damaging
one bit or needing a new size or type has a
A decent screwdriver
that holds magnetic
bits will replace a
drawer full of cheap This selection of bits will fill most of your
56
ones and you won’t woodworking needs; small, medium and large
Popular Woodworking
Magazine need to worry about slotted, #1 and #2 square drive, and #1 and #2
icandothatextras.com wearing it out. Phillips.
favor of a quality set of the few you will a “trim head” screw with a very small the tip of the screwdriver and so are easily
really need. head that comes in either a #1 Phillips damaged. Try driving in a steel screw of
The one size you will need most often drive, or a #1 square drive. If you have the the same size first to cut the threads, and
is the #2 Phillips. The crossed recess of choice, go with the square drive. Like its lubricate the brass screws.
this bit is much easier to use than the big brother, the #1 Phillips is susceptible There is a large, #3 size of Phillips
1. 7
common slotted screw because the driver to damage and once the bit is torn up, head, but it isn’t likely you will need one
chapter
will center itself in the screw head and it will start damaging the screws. If you unless you are working with large diameter
■ hammer won’t slip sideways as you turn it. If you are attaching hardware and can’t drive screws. If you have a large screw, and your
■ screwdriver
have a choice when buying screws for the screws without doing any damage #2 bit has a sloppy fit in the screw head,
assembling woodwork, get Phillips, not you should make sure your pilot hole is you need to head to the store and get a
slotted heads. Drywall screws are more the correct size. If it is and you still have #3 driver bit.
brittle than woodscrews, but work fine trouble, try lubricating the threads of the Square-drive screws won’t slip out of
in most cases and cost less. screw with some wax. Be especially careful the recess when the screw is tightened,
The downside to the Phillips head is with brass screws. They are softer than and generally work better than Phillips
that the end of the bit will eventually
wear out. When a Phillips-head screw is
The square drive holds
fully tight, the bit slips out of the recess in so well that the screw
the screw head. This helps you keep from will hang on the end of
over tightening or stripping the screw, but the bit.
it is hard on the driver. Get several extra
bits of this size.
The #1 Phillips is smaller, and you
57 won’t use it as often as the #2. Usually it
Popular Woodworking
Magazine is only used for attaching hardware, not
icandothatextras.com in building. There is a wood screw called
heads. A square-drive screw will hang on the screwdriver in use. There’s an excellent
to the tip of the driver by itself so it’s easier chance that you will come across them,
to use if you have to reach in a tight spot. so having a few sizes of bits on hand is a
You can apply more force to the square good idea.
drive without it slipping or damaging the If you have a cordless drill, you’ll
1. 7
screw head. Pocket-hole screws use a #2 probably use it for driving screws as well
chapter
square drive, and the trim-head screws as drilling holes. A magnetic bit holder
■ hammer mentioned earlier use a #1 square drive. will make your life much easier. It’s a lot
■ screwdriver
With either of these applications, don’t easier to handle and holds better in the
use Phillips-head screws if you have a drill chuck than the smaller individual
choice. bits. In addition, the magnet will hold
Square-drive woodworking screws can the screw to the driver, making it much
The magnetic bit holder chucks in your cordless
be hard to find at your local home center, easier to place the screws where you want
drill and uses replaceable insert bits.
but they are readily available from online them. When you drive screws with your
and catalog sources. Many woodworkers drill, adjust the clutch settings so that
prefer the square drive for all applications, the clutch engages at the point where the
but you will still need to have other bits screw is tight. This will keep you from
on hand. driving screws in too far or stripping the
Slotted screws used to be called threads. It will also extend the life of your
“common” because the vast majority of drill.
screws were made with that type of head.
The technology to manufacture other
58 types was developed after the 1930s. The
Popular Woodworking
Magazine newer types are much easier to use, and
icandothatextras.com less likely to damage either the screw or
Workholding – Workmate, clamps
Workmate
You need a surface to work on, but it doesn’t
have to be fancy or even permanent. A
couple sawhorses and a solid door is a
primo break-down work surface. I think
the case can be made that you can build
almost anything on a Workmate.
These wonders of engineering and
marketing have dominated home garages
since they were introduced in the early
1970s. (If you want to read a fascinating
history of the Workmate, pick up a
copy of Scott Landis’ “The Workbench
59 Book.”) The workmate is going to cost
Popular Woodworking
Magazine you anywhere from $50 to $100 (or hit You won’t outgrow your Workmate – I’ve always had one in my shop. It’s a bench, vise and (don’t tell) a
icandothatextras.com the garage sales; they’re everywhere). big stepstool. The new ones are good, but if you can find an older one, you’ll have found a friend for life.
And for your money you’re going to get Clamps
a workstation that can be positioned at You need some clamps to hold your work
two heights: Kinda low, which is great while you cut it or drill it and to hold parts
for sawing and kinda high, which is good together while the glue sets or you drive a
for everything else. Plus you get a big nail or screw. People spend a fortune on
workholding kinda-sorta vise. It’s not clamps, and someday you might also do
chapter 1. 8 going to do the job of a big metal the same. But to get started, we think you
■ Workmate woodworking vise, but with the need only about six clamps.
■ clamp
plastic dogs provided with the F-style clamps are so named
Workmate, you’ll be able to because they look kinda like
clamp most things. an “F.” Usually they have a
One nice thing about a wooden or plastic handle.
Workmate is that it folds up The typical and most useful
reasonably flat so you can stow it of all F-style clamps has a bar
away or throw it in your trunk. that is about 12" long with a throat (the
Plus, it’s not something you’ll ever distance from the bar to the tip of the
outgrow. Even if you become clamping pad) of about 3".
a professional cabinetmaker How do you pick a good F-style clamp?
and have a $100,000 in tools Good question. I hate – let me repeat that,
you’ll still find a good use for hate – cheap, cheesy clamps. They usually
your Workmate. aren’t much less expensive than the good
There are some off- stuff, but they are much less useful and
60 brands out there. We haven’t These two F-style clamps are absolutely your best durable. Even if you abandon woodworking,
Popular Woodworking
Magazine used them. They might be fine; they might friend when working wood. They hold things in you’ll probably keep your F-style clamps to
icandothatextras.com not. You’re on your own there. place as you cut and shape them. hold stuff for household repairs.
So how do you separate the good pronounced flat or plateau at the top of They are more durable. They don’t seem to
clamps from the bad? The first place to each mountain. Some will have a sharp get gummed up as much. They generally
look is at the metal screw between the peak. Likewise, the mating valleys can be work faster. They also are more expensive,
handle and the pad. Look closely. Think either flat or pointy. but they’re worth it.
of the threads like mountains and valleys. The flat-topped threads are commonly The other thing to look for on the
Some screws will have threads with a called “Acme” threads and are far superior. clamps are the “teeth” or serrations that
chapter 1. 8 are cut into the bar. Cheap clamps will
■ Workmate have teeth that are short and spaced far
■ clamp
apart. Good clamps will have finely milled
63 Router Designs Routers are available in many designs and at many different horsepower ratings. From left to right
Popular Woodworking
Magazine There are two distinct router types: plunge standing is a plunge router, a two-handle, fixed-base router, and a D-handle, fixed-base router. Lying at
icandothatextras.com base and fixed base. Plunge bases are the center is a trim router, sometimes called a laminate trimmer.
spring-loaded units that, with the motor only 1 ⁄4"-shank router bits. (You’ll learn you desire, but we think there is a better
slid into the base, have the ability to adjust more about this shortly.) Also, small introductory router choice.
up or down as you work. Plunge cuts can routers have small bases, and that makes Fixed-base routers with two handles are
be started and completed without moving it more likely you’ll tip the tool as you most often thought of as a router for entry-
the tool off the workpiece. While plunge- work. Tipping the tool causes problems level woodworkers. These routers sit flat in
base routers do have a place in the shop, when routing. You can replace the stock your workpiece with handles set close to
chapter 1.9 these routers, usually taller than fixed- base plate with a custom-made plate if the work. As you use the tools, the balance
■ router designs base routers with handle placement set
■ horsepower & higher off the workpiece, are a bit top
variable speeds
The base on a trim
■ other
features
heavy and awkward. Therefore, a plunge- router is small and that
■
a look at base router is not recommended as your presents problems with
router bits
■
router bit
first router. tipping the router as
profile choice In fixed-base routers, removable motors you cut. To improve the
■
size does usefulness of this small
matter are slid or threaded into bases that are
■
proper router router, add a shop-made,
techniques
then clamped around the motors to form oversized base with an
■
pattern a fixed unit with which to work. Fixed- extra handle. Also, the
routing
■
climb-cutting base routers include trim routers, as well tool is held with one
■
safety first as two-handle and D-handle designs. hand.
Trim routers are small tools that are
easily held with a single hand. Generally,
there are no handles associated with these
small routers; you simply wrap your hand
64 around the tool and begin your cut. Trim
Popular Woodworking
Magazine routers would make a good introductory
icandothatextras.com router except for the fact that they accept
is right and there is no top-heaviness to steady. This unsteadiness is reduced when to use a router. If you can find a multi-base
speak of. But there is a problem as you the router has a “soft start” feature, a gentle setup that includes a D-handle base as
begin or end your operation. motor increase to full speed. (Without part of the set, then I would look closely
To reach the on/off switch, you must soft start, the tool has a small kick that at the tool, as long as the desirable features
remove one hand from the tool. When can catch you off guard.) When ending a discussed below are met.
you do that, the router is difficult to hold cut, if you take your hand from the router
chapter 1.9 handle, the tool has a tendency to wobble Horsepower & Variable Speeds
■ router designs – and because the router bit is still turning Horsepower ratings for routers can also
■ orsepower &
h
at a high rpm, that can be a dangerous be an indication of router size. Trim
variable speeds
■ other
features
scenario. routers, which are the smallest in size,
■ a look at D-handle routers have the on/off have the smaller horsepower (hp) ratings.
router bits
■ router bit switch set in the handle of the base; it’s Generally, these routers come in around
profile choice a trigger control. This, coupled with a 1 horsepower; some are slightly less.
size does
well-balanced tool, allows the router to The highest hp ratings belong to the
■
matter
■ proper router be easily operated without any tipping or largest routers. These routers are primarily
techniques
■ pattern wobble as you begin the cut, work through used as table-mounted routers where the
routing
■ climb-cutting the cut and come to the end. This is the increased power can spin larger-diameter
■ safety first router we feel should be your choice as a router bits to remove waste material
first router. quickly. Larger routers have horsepower
What about router multi-base router ratings at 3 - 31 ⁄2 hp. They are unwieldy
kits? Kits generally are two-base setups to work easily as hand-held tools and we
that include a two-handle base along with don’t consider them to be a good first
D-handle routers are well balanced and can be
65
held steady with a single hand. And the on/off
a plunge base. It’s sometimes hard to pass router. Routers in the middle category
Popular Woodworking
Magazine trigger is right at your finger. It’s hard to look on a deal such as this, but we’ve discussed are normally rated with 13 ⁄4 or 21 ⁄4 hp.
icandothatextras.com anywhere else for a first router. the problems for someone just beginning The difference in hp ratings is negligible,
so choosing one over the other can be a
toss-up. However, a D-handle base is more
often found with the 13 ⁄4 hp routers, but
you can find the 21 ⁄4 hp routers available
with that base design. Then you should
consider price and if you can work with
chapter 1.9 a slightly heavier tool.
■ router designs Variable speed is something to look for
■ orsepower &
h
in your first router. Adjusting the speed
variable speeds
The collet, the part of the router
■ other
features
is necessary when you’re using router bits that grabs and secures the router
■
a look at with a larger mass in the profile. As the bit, is the piece inside the collet nut.
router bits
■
router bit
bit’s mass increases, you should slow the Today, these two important pieces Wrenches are as varied as routers. Cast is better than stamped,
profile choice tool’s rpm. are generally joined as a single although we wouldn’t walk by a router without cast wrenches.
■
size does unit. Different size collets accept We would, however, pass on a router that insisted we change
matter
different size router bit shanks. bits using a thumb-activated spindle.lock.
■
proper router
techniques
Other Features
■
pattern Other features one should consider when
routing
■
climb-cutting evaluating routers are the collets and how joined together. Collets are made to fit than trim routers, include two collets:
■
safety first router bit changes are made – do you need and work on the router model with which 1 ⁄4" and 1 ⁄ 2". Other sizes, 3 ⁄8" and 8mm,
two wrenches or is there a spindle lock? they came and should not be considered are commonly found accessories. Collets
A collet is part of the motor shaft interchangeable between different models, should grip the bit shank tightly and not
assembly; it’s the piece that holds the although some companies produce a release once tightened.
router bits safely in the router. On early single collet design that can be used on Many routers come equipped with a
66 routers, the collet was separate from the many routers produced by that company. spindle lock and a single collet wrench. To
Popular Woodworking
Magazine collet nut, but most routers today have a Also, collets sizes must match the shank swap router bits, your thumb depresses a
icandothatextras.com collet assembly where the two pieces are on your router bits. Most routers, other lock into the router shaft, then you operate
the wrench with your second hand. This profile. That extension rides against the along the wood. There is little chance of
process is inefficient and can result in wood to guide the bit in the cut. Pilot- marring the edge, and if the cut burns as
the setup slipping during changes, and guided router bits mar the edge of your it shapes, chances are there is operator
sometimes the lock slips out of the spindle workpiece and are likely to burn as they error involved (we cover that later) or your
as you attempt to loosen or tighten the cut. Today, this design is all but vanished, router bit is dull and should be replaced.
collet. The best arrangement is to use but can at times be purchased. Bits can be found with bearings placed
chapter 1.9 two wrenches: one wrench on the spindle A better choice is a bearing-guided bit. above or below the router bit profile.
■ router designs and a second on the collet nut. Look for Bearings spin freely as the bit is moved Different bearing placement is for different
■ orsepower &
h
a router that comes with two wrenches.
variable speeds
■ other
features
It’s better if those wrenches are cast metal
■ a look at instead of stamped.
router bits
■ router bit
profile choice A Look At Router Bits
size does
What about router bits? There are a
■
matter
■
proper router
techniques
number of designs from which to choose;
■
pattern just as there are easy calls on what not
routing
■
climb-cutting to use. The vast majority of entry-level
These router bits create a 3⁄ 8"
■
safety first router work is to produce edge profiles. roundover profile, but the router
The best results are accomplished when bit on the right is by far better.
using guided router bits – router bits that The bearing rolls along the edge
self-limit their travel into the wood. of your workpiece as it guides the
router bit. The piloted bit on the
If you’re rummaging around a flea
left is an older design. The shaft
67 market or a garage sale, don’t pick up pilot- guiding the bit often produced Guide bushings, also known as template guides, are another
Popular Woodworking
Magazine guided router bits – bits that have a portion a burnt edge below the cutting method to guide your router bit. The bushing, available in differ-
icandothatextras.com of the shank extended below the cutting profile. ent diameters, rides along a fence or pattern to guide your cut.
routing operation. Generally, being new most. At that point, purchase better- 1 ⁄2" radii are the most common. These bits
to routers, you’ll be most interested in quality router bits with that profile. produce a smooth roundover detail, or if
router bits with a bearing mounted below And don’t be afraid to experiment with set for a deeper cut, the same bit forms a
the profile. different profiles as you learn. fillet (or step) in the design.
Of course, there are times when a non- One important furniture profile is a A few other router bits are commonly
guided router bit is called for. In these roundover bit. Roundover router bits are used in woodworking. A classic ogee
chapter 1.9 operations, you are either making a cut available in a variety of sizes – 1 ⁄4", 3 ⁄8" and profile – as is its cousin the classic Roman
■ router designs free-hand – a procedure that’s inefficient
■ orsepower &
h
and difficult to master – or you’ll guide
variable speeds
Roundover router bits
■ other
features
the router in some other manner such as produce two distinct
■
a look at running the base plate along a straightedge profiles depending on
router bits
■
router bit
or using router guide bushings. the depth of cut. Set flush
profile choice with the workpiece, the
■
size does bit produces a roundover
matter Router Bit Profile Choice
■
proper router design. The same bit
techniques
The most often-asked question about creates a thumbnail design
■
pattern router bits focuses on what profile or which includes a small
routing
■
climb-cutting profiles should a woodworker purchase. fillet if set deeper.
■
safety first The answer is whatever bit profiles you
need. Of course, to someone not familiar
with routers and router bits, that answer is
meaningless. Our suggestion, if you’re just
beginning down this path, is to purchase a
68 set of inexpensive bits in different profiles.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine As you become more experienced, watch
icandothatextras.com to see what router bit profiles you use the
ogee – is used as a tabletop edge profile and
sometimes found as a door edge design.
Rabbeting bits, used to produce
stepped profiles along the edge of boards,
are available in either a fixed setup that
is good for a single rabbet profile, or the
chapter 1.9 router bit includes additional bearings
■ router designs that can be switched to produce varying
■ orsepower &
h
sized rabbets. There are dovetail bits
variable speeds
■ other
features
used to create dovetail joints and sliding
■ a look at dovetail joints – more advanced router
router bits
■ router bit operations. Dovetail router bits can be
profile choice bearing guided, but most often you’ll find
size does
them without. And there are straight bits,
■
matter
■ proper router including pattern bits.
techniques
■ pattern Pattern bits have become more popular Pattern router bits are available in many lengths and bit diameters. Small diameters allow you to get
routing
■ climb-cutting recently. These router bits are simply crisp details in your work. Here an elaborate pattern, half the overall length of the workpiece, is used.
■ safety first straight bits with a bearing mounted (Flip the pattern to complete the piece).
to guide the cut along a predetermined
shape. That shape is only limited by what
you can imagine – it can be a straight cut Size Does Matter However, when the cutter profile becomes
to house shelf standards for a bookcase, When talking about router bit shank larger, the router bits are generally limited
69 curved to form a round or oval tabletop, sizes, the mass of the cutter profile helps to 1 ⁄2" shanks. As a result, a trim router,
Popular Woodworking
Magazine or an intricate design used on the side of determine the shank size. Many profiles are due to its 1 ⁄4" shank limitations, is not
icandothatextras.com a piece of case furniture. available with either 1 ⁄4" and 1 ⁄2" shanks. used for larger-diameter router bits.
So with many routers able to work with will not move as you work. Next, move the
both router bit shank sizes, why choose Transition router from the left to the right as you’re
point
one size over another? The answer most routing an outside edge, or against the
often given is for durability and longevity. rotation of the router bit. On an inside
A 1 ⁄2"-shank router bit experiences less edge, such as the interior edge of a frame,
vibration than the smaller diameter you have to move from right to left or
chapter 1.9 shank. That lack of vibration extends again, work against the rotation of the
■ router designs the useful life. But as discussed above, router bit. That’s why it’s best to remember
■ orsepower &
h
some routers use only 1 ⁄4"-shank bits. to move against the bit rotation.
variable speeds
■ other
features
Begin with the router bit away from
■ a look at Proper Router Techniques the workpiece, but with the router base
router bits
■
router bit
Bit installation is important. A router resting on your work. Wait for the tool
profile choice bit should be fully engaged by the collet. Install the router bit by sliding it fully into the to come to full speed (soft start), then
■
size does
matter A simple rule of thumb is to slide the collet then pull it out about 1⁄8". If the collet move the router and bit into the work and
■
proper router tightens around the transition point (shown by
techniques
bit completely into the collet, then pull move slowly along the edge. As you reach
the bit out anywhere from 1 ⁄16" to 1 ⁄ 8" the arrow) it’s probable the collet would slip and the end of your cut, pull the spinning bit
■
pattern
routing the bit could fall from the router.
■
climb-cutting before tightening. It’s imperative to not away from the workpiece and allow the
■
safety first leave the bit fully set into the collet; doing router to come to a complete stop prior
so could cause two problems. First and is against the motor shaft, as the tool to removing the tool completely.
most important, the collet could tighten is used and heat builds, any expansion The speed at which you move is vital
at the area where the shank blends into could push the bit away from the shaft for a clean router cut. If you move too fast,
the cutter and not only on the shank. The causing problems with your depth-of-cut the cut will be rough and jagged. But if
70 connection could loosen as the collet slips settings. you move too slow, you are apt to create
Popular Woodworking
Magazine down onto the shank and the router bit The procedure for edge routing is to burn marks on the routed edge. Finding
icandothatextras.com could fall free. Second, if the bit shank first securely clamp your workpiece so it the sweet spot is important. This is an area
where being able to adjust the router speed
(rpm) is nice. If you feel uncomfortable
moving along the edge quickly enough to
prevent burn while maintaining a clean
cut, slow the spin of the router bit.
There are a couple tricks to eliminate
chapter 1.9 burning. One trick is to increase your
■ router designs speed as you rout – find that sweet spot. If
■ orsepower &
h
that fails, a trick we find useful is to rout
variable speeds
■ other
features
the entire edge of your workpiece, then
■ a look at adjust the depth of your router bit just a
router bits
■ router bit fuzz deeper to run the edge a second time.
profile choice This is a surefire method to a clean, burn-
size does
free edge profile. (Tip: Whenever you are
■
matter
■ proper router routing a panel that has both long grain
techniques
■ pattern and end grain, you should work the end
routing
■ climb-cutting grain first. This helps to prevent tear-out
■ safety first as you profile the edges.) If your first pass produces a charred profile, a technique used to remove the discoloration is to lower
the bit a small amount then rerun the edge. Without having to remove a huge amount of material, the
second pass is quick, the bit cuts cleaner and the charred edges disappear.
Pattern Routing
As mentioned above, pattern routing
is gaining popularity in woodworking. jigsaw or some other tool prior to routing. the pattern. Here, whatever the pattern
Place your pattern on to your workpiece Next, clamp the pattern in position and shape is, an identical shape is made in
then draw a line along the pattern. It’s rout the design just as you would an edge your workpiece.
better to remove most of the waste with a profile, allowing the bearing to ride along To rout an inside area such as a handle,
begin by transferring the pattern to the jigsaw blade if you have a lot of waste rout the waste from inside the pattern –
workpiece just as before, then drill a hole to remove. As before, the closer to your remember that you’re on the inside edges
through the area large enough for your cut lines you can get, the easier the task so you’ll have to move the router from
pattern bit to pass through – or your will be. Clamp the pattern in place, then right to left.
Climb-cutting
chapter 1.9 Pattern routing can be
as intricate as you need,
Until now, we’ve talked about moving the
■ router designs or it can be simple and router against the rotation of the router bit.
orsepower &
h
Working with the rotation is called climb-
a great way to make
■
variable speeds
■ other matching pieces. And it’s cutting. While this is an operation often
features a real timesaver when
■ a look at used in woodworking, it has potential
router bits woodworking.
■ router bit problems. When moving with the router
profile choice bit rotation, the router bit has a tendency
size does
to grab the work and propel the router
■
matter
■ proper router forward. If you’re not prepared for this, the
techniques
■ pattern router can be pulled from your hands and
routing
■ climb-cutting your workpiece ruined. In this scenario,
■ safety first it’s best to take very light cuts and not try
to hog off heavy-duty waste. Even with
that in mind, make sure to brace yourself
as you cut. Stand in front of the cut and
lock your elbow to absorb any kick.
72 With these potential problems, why
Popular Woodworking
Magazine would you climb-cut at all? When you’re
icandothatextras.com routing hills and valleys, it’s better to work
down the hills. If you move only right to
left, as you work up the hills, you’re apt to
tear out sections of your workpiece that
are vital to the finished design as the spin
of the bit cuts away from the workpiece.
By climb-cutting from the apex of the
chapter 1.9 hill down into the valley, the router bit,
■ router designs as it spins into the wood during a climb-
■ orsepower &
h
cut, cuts the waste material while pushing
variable speeds
■ other
features
into the finished stock. This helps to keep
■ a look at the wood intact.
router bits
■ router bit
profile choice Safety First
size does
Remember to protect your eyes, ears and
■
matter
■
proper router
techniques
lungs when using a router. Eye protection
■
pattern is key whenever you’re working in a
routing
■
climb-cutting woodshop, but it’s of particular importance
■
safety first when using a router. The decibels reading
for most routers is more than 100, which
is over the danger threshold, so hearing
protection should always be worn. And
fine wood dust gathers in your lungs and
73 accumulates over time, so it’s best to wear
Popular Woodworking
Magazine a mask as you rout – especially when Safety gear – safety glasses, hearing protection and some type of dust mask – should always be used
icandothatextras.com working with exotic woods. when routing.
2 Techniques
■
2 ■ Jigsaw as close to the line as possible without
Popular Woodworking
Magazine crossing it. Move the saw swiftly yet surely for a
icandothatextras.com smooth cut.
chapter 2.1
■ ripping
3 ■ Use a block plane to remove the saw marks and create a square edge.
Plane down to your cutting line (check both faces of your work).
4 ■ Check your work in several places along the edge to ensure it’s square.
Work on the areas that aren’t.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine
icandothatextras.com
Layout – Egg Crate Shelf Joint
Test fit each joint as you go by fitting a piece of scrap wood. Take note of
where the joints are too loose or too tight and correct your technique when
you cut the next joint. Don’t worry if the first joints have some gaps. The
project will still come together if you’re not perfect. The idea is to practice
and get better with each attempt.
Popular Woodworking
Magazine
icandothatextras.com
3 Materials &
■
Hardware
“One minute of patience, ten years of peace.”
— Greek proverb
Materials: Selecting Lumber
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Magazine
icandothatextras.com