COSMETICS

LAB
FEBRUARY ´20

The science
behind the
ingredients
 5 4

Content
Wildest

0 Editor’s Note ingredients

1
in cosmetics
Five steps to turn
natural raw material
into active
ingredients
06 17 Three wins
of cosmetic
ingredient
use in 2019
One cosmetic

8
scientist’s fight
10 Top seven facts
about using
extraction
against

1
misinformation

24
when screening
for active ingredients

12
Quiz

True
or false? Horoscope
2 6
 W
hen I was a young girl and we were visiting my grandparents for din-
ner, my mother would always exclaim in wonder and appreciation at
my grandpa’s recipes and cooking. He would always smile and mod-
estly reply, “It’s the ingredients, my dear.”

Thinking back to the taste of those sweet tomatoes which he grew

in his own garden, I can’t help but marvel at the truth of his words. No doubt, the
recipe is of importance, but if the starting ingredients are not right, well then, the final
product is all but doomed.

You don’t have to grow natural cosmetic ingredients in your own garden, but you should
pay close attention to quality, environmental impact and effectiveness, if you want a
winning recipe at the end of the day. After all, whatever you put in your formulation,
you will certainly get out.

Choosing ingredients for your cosmetic products is no easy feat. At this day and age, we
are subjected to incredible amounts of information and misinformation, making it dif-
ficult to find science-driven avenues to pursue. Critical thinking skills must be used like
never before to weed out common anecdotes and misconceptions from actual scientific
evidence. Only then can we make informed choices about the natural ingredients best
suitable for cosmetic products.

There is so much to consider when selecting the best possible ingredients, besides their
properties and effects. When users look for natural ingredients in their cosmetics, they
want actives that are good for them and good for the environment. It is then our job as
scientists and formulators to find ingredients that satisfy these requirements. The con-
sumer might not be aware of possible solutions or limitations, but we need to be.

The day will come when the consumer holds companies accountable for what they’ve
been sold. It is best to be prepared, to engage with the consumer, on social media for
example, on why you’ve made some choices and to involve them in understanding the
process.

In this way, you can flaunt labels withWednesday, 23 October 2019 15:15
ingredients that are good for consumer health,
good for the environment and good for those involved in cosmetics development. And
this is certainly a great formula for success that will long outlive any trend and any
misinformation out there.

Dr. Aurelie Demont

Product Specialist
BÜCHI Labortechnik AG

4 5
 Total extracts are used according to traditional
methods, whereas selective extracts are applied
following investigation of their specific activities.
Examples of selective extracts include using lico-
rice for skin irritations or gingko as a free radical
scavenger.
polar compounds, whereas non-polar solvents
have higher affinity for non-polar molecules.
A typical example of eco-extraction would be the
use of supercritical CO2 to replace a non-polar
solvent. How well supercritical CO2 can extract
an active ingredient depends on how well its

Steps to turn
Wherever possible, the selection of plant materi-
als should be restricted to materials where strong
ethnobotanical use has been established. This
polarity matches the polarity of the target
molecule. By increasing pressure and temperature
in the supercritical state, CO2 will change from
non-polar to more polar. With the appropriate

natural raw
involves choosing ingredients from plants that recipe of temperatures and pressures, the polarity
preferably do not come from protected species. of the CO2 molecules can be adjusted to target the
Moreover, the source plant should grow easily, desired active compounds. Other methods such

materal into
without requiring too much water and should
be accessible in quantities at a reasonable price.
Sustainable sourcing should be achieved in col-
laboration with local communities and in accor-
as screw press extraction, microwave extraction,
pressurized extraction or pulsed electric field
extraction methods are also being investigated to
replace large-scale extraction techniques relying

active
dance with current legislation, such as the Nagoya on solvents from the petroleum industry.
protocol.
While looking for an ecofriendly, sustainable pro-

ingredients
In the last issue of COSMETICS LAB, we briefly explored the
entire R&D process in cosmetics development. Let’s now go back
to the start and zoom in on the screening steps you need to take
to transform your starting material into the actives used in final
formulations.
1. Finding and transporting natural raw material
Many cosmetic actives originate from plant
extracts, herbs or spices, which contain
bioactive compounds such as lipids, polyphenols,
phytochemicals, pharmaceutics, flavors,
fragrances and pigments. Natural material used
to produce cosmetic ingredients comes from a
variety of sources, which include conventional
agricultural production, mainly on fields or in
greenhouses, biotechnological methods such as
tissue cultures, hydroponic systems, fermentation
of genetically modified organisms and microalgae
cultures or re-use of food and agricultural waste.
Plant extracts differ from using synthetic chemi-
cals in several aspects. Herbal extracts tend to be
more dilute than pure chemicals and often contain
additional active principles that can be similar,
both chemically and therapeutically to the con-
stituents causing the desired effects. The colour,
odour, transparency or active ingredients are often
limiting factors when it comes to plant extracts.
Herbal extracts can be either total or selective.
In order to facilitate transportation and to duction method, researchers are also challenged
increase shelf life, the raw material is usually to find a method that does not modify the extract
provided as a dry material. For this process, the properties when compared with laboratory-scale
product is usually air-dried, but other techniques extraction. Extract properties such as bioactivity
such as freeze drying could also be used. are proven at a laboratory-scale level and should
remain unaltered when the extraction method
is changed. In addition, research to develop new
2. Screening of extract for bioactivity green solvents for sustainable chemistry, to im-
prove extraction processes in water or without
Once a plant of interest or a part of this plant is solvent, and to use enzymatic catalysis to improve
selected, a systematic screening of its extracts is extraction efficiency is ongoing.
undertaken in order to isolate bioactive fractions.
Commonly used methods would be Soxhlet ex-
traction or pressurized solvent extraction since
these methods are rather quick, well known, well
characterized and well defined. Extraction is per-
formed using different solvent systems to screen
for metabolites through a wide range of polarity.
Solvents commonly used in this selection phase
may include cyclohexane, dichloromethane, ethyl
acetate, ethanol/water (EtOH/H2O) 90/10, and
water (chromatography grade) - so that molecules
with different polarities can be extracted and in-
vestigated. This screening is usually performed on
different parts of the plant, coming from several
lots which differ from each other in terms of year,
season and region of harvest.
Since most screening is performed with some
amount of petrochemical solvents, researchers
are constantly challenged to find ecofriendly
sustainable extraction methods for the final pro-
duction of the extract.
The selection of an eco-extraction method is
done according to the polarity of the solvents
used for screening and the yields being obtained.
One established phenomenon in science is that
“like dissolves like”. Polar solvents easily dissolve

6 7
 3. Isolation and characterization of active fractions Selecting materials and methods for the isolation 4. Concentration of molecules of interest
of natural products by chromatography depends
The bioactivity of the extracts is then assessed on the type of compound present in the extract Due to the large amounts of solvents being
together with the isolation and structural and the extraction process used prior to puri- used during the solvent extraction and the
characterization of the active constituents. fication. The extract of a plant obtained with chromatography fractionation steps, the mole-
Crude natural product extracts often consist of aqueous ethanol will be substantially different cule of interest may end up being quite diluted.
hundreds of compounds and isolation of a par- than compounds extracted with with hexane. Po- A concentration step might therefore be required
ticular compound can be a challenging process. larity of the compound mixture is a major factor prior to bioactivity assessment, chromatography
The most commonly used process often involves for deciding which mobile or stationary phase extract characterization and formulation.
an initial isolation by flash chromatography to should be used.
“prefractionate” and reduce the number of com-
ponents, followed by a final purification by pre- Further on, activity evaluation takes place.
parative high-pressure liquid chromatography Common activity assessment includes screening
(prep-HPLC). for whitening effect, anti-oxidant properties,
anti-elastase activities, anti-hyaluronidase
Flash chromatography is a rather simple activities, anti-inflammatory effect, anti-colla-
technique used for purification of high quantities genase properties and others. Proper isolation of
of both synthetic and natural products. It is the molecules of interest can take place further
mainly used for the rapid fractionation of crude on during processing. The processes to further
extracts or coarsely purified fractions. The develop the cosmetic ingredients is adapted to
main goal of this experimental procedure is to preferentially extract the most active fractions
reveal the most active fractions so that their and to potentiate their bioactivities.
bioactivities can be correlated to the molecules
or families of molecules they are made of. In
the technique, the sample is introduced into
the chromatography system either by liquid
or solid loading and a mobile phase carries the
sample through a stationary phase prepacked in
a cartridge. The separation takes place through
selective distribution of the components between
the mobile and stationary phase. Silica is the
most commonly used stationary phase (particle
size between 15 and 50 µm), available in different
polarities: unbonded silica (polar) and bonded
silica such as C18 (unpolar). Online peaks
detection is possible and several fractions can be
collected for characterization, bioactivity testing
and further purification by prep-HPLC.

Preparative HPLC is usually the final step of the 5. Addition of supporting ingredients for further
purification of bioactive material. The sample is cosmetic formulation
injected by liquid loading and transferred via the
mobile phase on a steel column filled with silica The ingredient, once elaborated, may still not
(stationary phase). The method offers a robust, be directly incorporated into a formulation as it
versatile and rapid way of purifying compounds could be unstable or it could display undesirable
from complex mixtures at high purity. This qualities such as an offensive color and/or odor,
is accomplished by small particle sizes of the stickiness, unsuitable viscosity. In order to facili-
silica. The smaller the particle size, the bigger tate the incorporation of natural extracts into a
the surface the solute can interact and with this cosmetic formulation, the addition of an appro-
the better the resolution, or separation power, priate support, either liquid (e.g. glycols, vegeta-
between the compounds. For prep-HPLC, the ble oils) or solid (e.g. maltodextrin, arabic gum,
particle size of the stationary phase is between sucrose, starch), is then necessary.
5-15 µm, which is substantially smaller than for
flash chromatography. Due to the smaller particle
size, higher pressure needs to be applied to push
the mobile phase through the system.

8 9
 6
Pressurized solvent extraction
(BUCHI SpeedExtractor E-914 /
E-916) offers shorter extraction
times and lower solvent con-
Extraction is performed using The search for more eco-friendly
different solvent systems so that extraction methods is ongoing.
metabolites with a broad range The selection of an eco-ex-
of polarities can be investigated. traction method should be done

5
sumption than traditional tech-
niques. Thanks to the applied
pressure, the cell structure of
the plants is destroyed and effi-
cient extraction can take place
even at low extraction tempera-
For example, solvents commonly
used in this selection phase may
include cyclohexane, dichloro-
methane, ethyl acetate, ethanol/
water (EtOH/H2O) 90/10, and
water (chromatography grade).
according to the polarity of the
solvents used for screening and
the yields being obtained.
Any promising ecofriendly,

7
tures. Water can also be used as These solvents enable molecules sustainable extraction method
a solvent. Pressurized hot water with different polarities to be should not modify the extract

4
extraction has become a popu- extracted and analysed. properties during production
lar green alternative to organic when compared with laboratory
solvent extraction. Pressurized scale. Extract properties such as

Top seven facts solvent extraction is moreover

not restricted to solvents that
can absorb microwaves, unlike
bioactivity are proven at labo-
ratory scale and should remain
unchanged when changing the

about using
some of the newer techniques. extraction method.

extraction
when screening
for active
ingredients
If you are looking to score more information on solvent extraction,
you’ve hit the jackpot with the following seven facts about the
method. Here are some interesting details about the use of solvent
extraction in cosmetic science.

1
Traditional solid-liquid ex-
traction techniques have been
used for centuries and are very
well established in the indus-
Commonly used screening
methods for bioactive ingredi-
ents include Soxhlet extraction,
automated Soxhlet extraction

3
Automated solvent extraction
(BUCHI UniversalExtractor
E-800) enables an automated,
fast, secure and repeatable

try. Nowadays, most of the
production process in perfume,
cosmetic, pharmaceutical, food,
biofuel or fine chemicals indus-
tries include extraction pro-
cesses such as maceration, steam
or hydro-distillation, pressing,
decoction, infusion, percolation
and Soxhlet extraction.
2
(BUCHI UniversalExtractor
E-800) or pressurized solvent
extraction (BUCHI SpeedEx-
tractor E-914 / E-916). These
methods offer the benefits of
being rather fast, they are well
known, they are often reference
or standard methods and they
are well characterized.
screening using solvents of
different polarities, including
water and water-ethanol mix-
tures in parallel. The six distinct
extraction positions enable
individual process control and
simultaneous use of different
solvents and methods.

10 11
 True
?
or false
A brief look into how
chromatography turns
natural products into pure
compounds
Chromatography is one of the most common tech-
niques used by chemists. Despite the popularity
and acceptance of the method, misconceptions
can arise when using chromatography for puri-
fication of extracts in cosmetic science. Here we
try to offer you some evidence-based statements
regarding the use of the technique when used
for separation of active compounds as cosmetic
ingredients.
Due to their high chemical diversity, biochemical
specificity and molecular properties, natural prod-
ucts are rarely productive sources of leads for the
discovery of new active compounds.
False. The properties of natural products make
them a great source for new actives. These
bioactive molecules are commonly used as
food supplements, nutraceuticals, alternative
medicines, cosmetics ingredients or drugs.
Flash chromatography is a relatively easy tech-
nique.
True. Flash chromatography (BUCHI Pure chro-
matography sytems) is a rather simple technique
with applications in both synthetic and natural
products. It is mainly used for the rapid fraction-
ation of crude extracts or coarsely purified frac-
tions. Briefly, the sample is introduced in the sys-
tem either by liquid or solid loading and a mobile
phase is carrying it through a stationary phase
prepacked in a cartridge. The separation takes
place through selective distribution of the com-
ponents between the mobile and the stationary
phase.
12
Particle size affects the separation power in chro-
matography.
True. In chromatography the particle size of the
silica is critical for the separation of a mixture.
The smaller the particle size, the bigger the sur-
face the solute can interact with and with this the
better the resolution. But smaller particle sizes
generate a higher back pressure, so more pressure
is needed to push the sample through the system.
Different purification techniques and multiple steps
are often required to obtain an isolated substance.
True. Several separation steps involving different
techniques might be required to obtain a pure
compound. Fast and efficient techniques are
therefore required to purify the compounds of
interest. The most commonly used process often
involves a first isolation by Flash chromatogra-
phy (BUCHI Pure chromatography systems) to
reduce the number of components followed by a
final final high-resolution step by preparative high
pressure liquid chromatography (BUCHI Pure
chromatography systems).
The extraction process influences the
chromatography process during natural product
isolation
True. Defining materials and methods used for the
isolation of natural products by chromatography
depends upon the type of compound encountered
in the extract and therefore upon the extraction
process. The extract of a plant obtained using
aqueous ethanol will be substantially different
in compounds than that extracted with hexane.
Polarity of the compound mixture is hence one
of the major deciding factors on which method to
apply.
Preparative HPLC is used at the beginning of the
purification process.
False. Preparative HPLC (BUCHI Pure chroma-
tography systems) almost always represents the
final step of separation and purification in the
field of bioactive material. It is a robust, versatile
and rapid technique to purify compounds from
complex mixtures and lately.
UV detection is sufficient for purification of
natural products.
False. In cosmetics, many components, mainly
natural molecules extracted from plants do not
show any UV-absorption or show very low re-
sponse to the UV signals. The combination of UV-
VIS & ELSD detections gives moreover the oppor-
tunity to detect any compound, including those
that lack chromophores. The Pure chromatogra-
phy system C-850 combines both Flash and Prep
HPLC techniques in one instrument to have a fast
purification or a high purity of the material.
Isolation of specific compounds is easy and cheap.
False. Extraction of the compounds from its
cellular matrix, isolation and purification are
important steps in natural product research for
cosmetics. Crude natural product extracts often
consist of hundreds of compounds and the isola-
tion of a particular components can be a rather
long, expensive and challenging process.
The solvent must be removed after the purification
is complete.
True. After fraction collection, the solvent needs
to be removed to recover the purified product.
Freeze-drying and Rotary evaporation can
commonly be used for this purpose.
Alumina is the most commonly used stationary
phase in chromatography.
False. Silica is the most commonly used stationary
phase (particle size between 15 and 50 µm),
available in different polarities: unbonded silica
(polar) and bonded silica such as C18 (unpolar).
13

Snail slime
Slime from snails contains
mucin extract, which is made
up of proteins, glycolic acids
Gold
Gold is used in some products
as an anti-aging ingredient. It is
believed by some to rejuvenate
skin cells, have anti-wrinkle
effects, reduce inflammation
thereby reducing acne and
hyperpigmentation. If applied
topically, it might brighten the
skin. However, there is limited
Fish scales
Fish scales contain high concen-
trations of guanine. They are
used to add shimmer to cosmetic
products, such as lipstick, nail
polish, eye shadow. Fish scales
are also used in some products
to help hide blemishes.
Saffron

Wildest
and elastin. The mucin extract research on its use in cosmetics Saffron is not only the most
is believed to have regenerative and there are doubts that its expensive spice in the world,
and moisturizing properties. In effects are lasting, due to its costing roughly $2,800 per

ingredients
facial products, the ingredient is
believed to help minimize scars
and pigmentation.
inert properties. kilogram, it is also a luxurious
ingredient for cosmetic
Oil from a shark's liver products. Saffron is believed
to possess skin brightening,

in cosmetics
You think rose oil is the most exotic ingredient in
your cosmetic palette? Well, you’d be surprised at
what people have added to make-up to get stand-
out products. From simply gross to extravagantly
expensive, these ingredients can make anyone
gasp in wonder:
Diamonds
It’s hard to get a more expensive
ingredient than diamonds for a
luxurious beauty product. From
black-diamond encrusted nail
polish to diamond exfoliating
peels, there are thousands to be
paid for cosmetics containing
the precious stone. For skin care,
diamond powder is believed to
contribute with a brightening
effect, although the efficiency of
the ingredient is under debate.
Bird poop
Excrement from nightingales is
believed to cleanse the skill and
give it a glow. Nightingale poop
is considered special, because
birds have only one hole, the clo-
aca, through which they release
both liquid and solid waste.
The excrement contains nitro-
gen-rich urea, which helps bind
moisture to the skin, making it
feel hydrated.
Shark liver oil contains moisturizing and UV absorption
squalene, a fat naturally found properties.
in skin. Squalene is believed to
protect and hydrate the skin A note of caution: Whereas
barrier and is thus often used in many luxury ingredients could
moisturizers. be used to add uniqueness
and raise the price tag of the
Caviar final formulations, the real
effectiveness of these costly
The fish eggs are appreciated ingredients in cosmetics is
by some in the cosmetics indus- likely limited and remains to be
try due to their nutrient-rich proven scientifically.
composition including omega-3
and omega-6 fatty acids and
antioxidants. These compounds
play a role in protecting the in-
tegrity and barrier of the skin.
Skin-care and hair-care beauty
brands are known to use caviar
for its hydrating, restorative,
shine-boosting and UV-protec-
tive properties. However, some
argue that the benefits of ome-
ga-3 and omega-6 fatty acids
might be best enjoyed using the
inside-out approach, suggesting
to feast on the salty delicacy
rather than applying it topically.

14 15
 Three wins of
cosmetic ingredient
use in 2019
L
ooking for inspirations to start off 2020? Well, you could not
only learn from others’ mistakes, you can also learn from
their successes. See three trends that were so well-received in
2019, that they will most likely continue leaving a positive mark on
the cosmetics space in the years to come.

WIN: Circular economy

This sustainable approach involves the recycling of natural

by-products and waste from food and agriculture to create cosmetic
ingredients. Circular economy reduces the carbon footprint of the
ingredient and improves waste management. Examples of waste
that can be turned into active ingredients is plentiful: citrus peels
are rich in flavonoids, olive waste is rich in polyphenols, tomato
pulp and seed possess antioxidant properties and when fermented
can yield amino acids and prebiotics, blueberry skins can protect
against blue light and many more.

WIN: Artificial Intelligence as Assistant in Ingredient Discovery

Currently, AI has the ability to read 10,000 research papers per day,
form connections and patterns at a speed unmatched by the human
mind. AI can then be used to skim through billions of peptides to
pinpoint those with application potential for humans. Besides dis-
covering new targeted bioactive peptides from nature, AI can also
help provide a roadmap for scaling the ingredients without activity
loss.

WIN: Hyaluorinic acid

This very trendy molecule can hold onto a lot of moisture,

approximately 6L of water in just 1 g. Hyaluorinic acid is then a
very potent humectant, can reduce the appearance of wrinkles,
helps to provide smoothness and softening to the skin. It appears
to exert substantial effects even at concentrations as low as 0.5%.
Interestingly, the natural sources of hyaluronic acid, include rooster
combs and cow eyes. The ingredient is then only available for use in
cosmetics formulations thanks to biotechnology, where it is pro-
duced via bacteria fermentation.

16 17
 “Don’t believe everything
you read on Facebook”
-Abraham Lincoln
I
f Jen Novakovich ever
lays eyes on this quote
currently making the
rounds on Facebook, she
would probably have
a good laugh at it. After all,
Jen, a cosmetic chemist, en-
One cosmetic vironmentalist and scientific
communicator, has dedicated
her professional life to fighting
scientist’s fight
misinformation in the field of
natural cosmetics.
against misinformation
It did not take long for her to
find her calling. Fresh out of
graduating with a degree in
nutrition and nutraceutical sci-
ences, she started working as a
sales representative in a natural
health distribution company.
Critical thinking: How Jen Novakovich, Founder “What is communicated to con-
and Director of the Eco Well practices what she sumers and what you learn in
preaches school is like night and day,” she
explains. “I was not allowed to
say things that I thought were
18
important. I was restricted in
getting people accurate informa-
tion.”
Jen was quick to discover that
this was not a problem specific
to her company, but to the in-
dustry as a whole.
“It doesn’t really matter what
claims you make, as long as you
sell the product,” she describes
the industry mantra during her
tenure as a sales rep, adding
that the experience left her very
pessimistic both about consumer
and companies’ attitudes.
“When consumers reach for
natural health products, many
are just looking for a silver
bullet. They just want to be told
what to take,” says Jen. “Peo-
ple don’t differentiate between
anecdotal and actual scientific
evidence.”
So, Jen started to look for ways
to engage people. She targeted
natural cosmetics believing
that people are too emotionally
invested in nutrition to change
their opinions. Still, she hoped
that once people become aware
of science, communication and
critical thinking, they could
apply these tools to all aspects
of their life.
To try to popularize
science-based, informed deci-
sions in natural cosmetics de-
velopment and consumption
specifically, she got a diploma in
cosmetic chemistry and simulta-
neously launched the Eco Well.
The organization aims to spread
accurate scientific communica-
tion about cosmetics via courses,
consultations, events, blog posts,
podcasts and social media.
19
 Critical assessment of natural
cosmetics for scientists
Emphasizing critical thinking
seems to come naturally to Jen,
as it appears to be embedded
deeply in her own personality.
A prime example of this is her
opinion on synthetic and natural
ingredients used in cosmetics.
She finds the choice of ingredi-
ent to be a very complex issue
with societal, environmental
and economic impacts to be
considered.
“A lot of people would say
petrochemicals [should be
phased out as cosmetics in-
gredients],” she offers as an
example. “I don’t know how I
feel about that. I have not seen
any data to have me concerned
petrochemicals are a risk for
human health. Petrochemicals
are by-product ingredients. If
they are not used, they will just
remain as waste. But they can
20
be re-defined. If you use natural
sourcing, tractors require petrol
for the cultivation, harvesting
requires energy, which usually
requires petrochemicals. How
much do you save then if you
just use the petrochemical
itself? Of course, as a society
we should be thinking about
phasing out the petrol sector in
general. But until that happens,
I’m not sure how I feel about
phasing the by-product ingredi-
ents out of personal care.”
She also emphasizes the environ-
mental burden of growing some
natural ingredients, including
rose essential oil, which is re-
quired in unsustainable amounts
for cosmetic products. She goes
on to mention sandalwood and
explains it takes ten years for a
tree to mature to extraction and
the extraction kills the tree. A
process that certainly has played
a part in the extinction threat
sandalwood trees currently face.
Instead of putting so much
emphasis on natural ingredients,
Jen recommends focusing on in-
gredients that are simply better
for all aspects of the workflow.
“What isn’t natural?” she ex-
claims. “If you look at ISO-defi-
nitions synthetic usually means
petrol-derived or from ingredi-
ents not deemed natural. But
petrol comes from nature and
sometimes synthetic ingredients
are a better choice for safety,
sustainability. We shouldn’t be
focused on natural versus syn-
thetic, but what products offer
high efficiency, are sustainable,
all the things that actually mat-
ter.”
“What isn’t
natural?”
Jen acknowledges that she is
willing to change her opinion if
presented with enough evidence.
Previously convinced by the
efficacy of prebiotic and probi-
otic products for the skin mi-
crobiome, she has changed her
mind after speaking with several
dermatologists and carefully
exploring available evidence on
the topic.
“I like the idea, but more re-
search needs to be done before
we can have efficient prebiotic
or probiotic products,” she says.
“We just don’t know enough.”
At the same time, she is well
aware of parties spreading false
information in this particular
field. She brings up one compa-
ny that makes claims that syn-
thetic ingredients destroy skin
microbiota. She has a simple
message for them:
“Show me the data – there is
none.”
Still, she goes on to explain that
the company is very popular
and given a large platform to
spread their message as invitees
to multiple industry events.
The message of the cautious
dermatologists and scientists in
comparison is as loud as a whis-
per and reserved only for those
actively trying to hear it.
Jen exercises caution when it
comes to the cannabis trend in
cosmetics as well.
“More research needs to be
done,” she repeats. “Especially
on how to stabilize CBD in
formulation. CBD is prone to
oxidation. There are tactics like
adding antioxidants, but we
don’t have the best formulation
strategies yet.”
There are cosmetics trends that
are exciting for Jen. One of
them is the concept of circular
economy, which aims to elimi-
nate waste by re-using resources.
Jen excitedly talks about a com-
pany in her native Canada that
produces cosmetics using extract
from bark, a common waste
source in the country. She also
mentions a European company
who has recently launched a
cosmetics line using ingredients
from fruit, vegetable and coffee
waste. She is so into the idea of
circular economy, that she will
often look to ingredients that
match the concept to use in her
own formulations.
“Biotechnology can regress
some of my concerns,” Jen com-
ments about another trend she
views positively. “You can make
pretty much anything in the
formulation in the bioreactor.
The limit is your imagination. It
is the most exciting thing hap-
pening and it will continue to
grow in popularity in the next
20 years.”
Jen is full of examples of how
biotechnology has benefited
the industry, especially when it
comes to solving sustainability
issues. From rose essential oils
to squalene from shark liver oil
to the popular hyaluronic acid
derived from rooster crowns to
unique ingredients from the
Amazon, she feels biotechnology
has provided feasible, ethical
means to use natural sources.
Still, she readily admits biotech-
nology is a well-kept secret from
consumers.
“Not many people put bio-
technology into the ingredient
list,” she says. “It is not always
communicated to consumers,
perhaps because of this fear of
science.”
In her efforts to disperse this
science phobia and sharpen
consumers’ critical assessment
skills, Jen tries to go there where
the masses are.
21

Critical evaluation of natural
cosmetics for the general public
“For a lot of consumers, the
main source of information is
social media from “influencers”
or “wellness coaches” who do
not have expertise,” says Jen.
“We need more people who are
thinking critically enough. We
need more scientists commu-
nicating about what they are
doing, pointing out inaccuracies.
My strategy: influence the influ-
encers. Then they can influence
their thousands of followers.”
Jen believes a major problem
is that ingredient suppliers are
often on LinkedIn or Twitter,
but not on Instagram, where in
her experience, most of the con-
sumers actually are. She would
love to see science communica-
tion-dedicated platforms from
22
companies, especially cosmetic
giants, where scientists working
in the industry can accurately
communicate what they are
doing without any marketing
restrictions. This would also lead
to higher consumer confidence,
as users would get access to ac-
curate information.
“Currently consumers rely on
databases that just aren’t accu-
rate from people who might even
want to interpret science, but
just don’t know how to,” adds
Jen. “The educational system
has not kept up with preventing
people from reading something
that just popped up on Face-
book and believing it. Reading
and assessing a scientific pa-
per is really hard. People go to
school for years to learn this
skill. Instead people will go find
one paper from 1995 that has
never been replicated and point
to it as evidence an ingredient is
toxic [despite much more evi-
dence on the contrary].”
In her experience, consumers of-
ten fail to give enough thought
to the processes involved in cos-
metics development. As a result,
very few companies bother to
improve or mention their efforts
in improving certain steps, from
harvesting to extraction to for-
mulation.
“Consumers think the ingredient
goes from field to vial with very
little in-between,” Jen shares
her opinion. “There is not much
thought into impact. That’s why
more scientific communicators
are needed to spread the
message.”
The ultimate goals of natural
cosmetics assessment
If you are just starting out or
are already in the business and
want to count Jen as one of
your customers, then you should
get a few points right.
“Use metrics when deciding on
ingredients and process,” she
advises. “Use data, think what
certifications actually address,
be critical of them. Don’t be
misled by flashy packaging.”
She also recommends joining a
local chapter of cosmetic scien-
tists as a great way to network,
learn what’s going on in the
industry and attend conferences.
“The more you know, the better
off you’ll be,” she adds.
But her ultimate dreams for
the natural cosmetics field go
far and beyond to encompass
industry-wide collaboration.
Her hope is for businesses to
come together and cooperate to
achieve a unified understanding
of sustainability.
“So much ingredient selection
right now is informed by mis-
information,” says Jen. “[We
need] evidence-based informa-
tion, rather than bad scientific
interpretation.”
She hopes that an entrepreneur
would one day come up with a
metric-driven system for assess-
ing anything from water usage,
to endpoint of pollution to
make informed choices based on
universally accepted definitions.
She believes a framework for
all the questions people in the
industry should be asking and
having scientists inform stan-
dards are key to achieving an
evidence-based definition of
sustainability. She feels a lot
of these definitions are already
available internally, at least in
the workplaces of cosmetics
giants. Her vision and this shift
would require widespread col-
laboration where definitions are
released to the entire industry,
so stakeholders can come to an
agreement on good standards
everyone can follow.
At the end of the day, Jen firmly
believes the intention of cos-
metic scientists and consumers
is good. And that is not a bad
starting point.
“The whole industry wants to be
greener, we just don’t know how,
because there is so much misin-
formation out there.”
“The whole
industry
wants to be
greener”
Photographer: Jen Lyon®
More about Jen and “The Eco Jen Novakovich finds her pas-
Well” sions in science communica-
tion, environmentalism and
The staggering amount of cosmetic chemistry. She holds
misinformation plaguing the two Bachelor of Science with
cosmetics industry can easily Honors degrees from the Uni-
confuse or mislead both industry versity of Guelph and has
members and consumers alike. completed graduate studies in
The Eco Well was started to cosmetic chemistry. Currently,
help spread accurate informa- she is focused on sustainable
tion about cosmetics and sus- development and science-based
tainability related to the indus- cosmetics. Besides being head
try in a form that is accessible of the Eco Well, she is also the
to everyone. To achieve this, director of the environmental
presentations on sustainability organization, the Eco Market
in cosmetics are regularly given Canada.
in universities, beginner and
advanced classes on cosmetic
formulating are offered and con-
sultation services to business are
provided. The Eco Well website
also features a free cosmetic sci-
ence podcast, a blog and heavy
social media presence.
23
 Quiz
The giant (mis)information
quiz for cosmetic scientists

Think you can easily separate fact from fiction, have all the knowledge on trendy 7. Which of the following is the most “natural” 8. How many beetles does it take to make
topics in natural cosmetics ingredients and are on top of things when it comes to cos- surfactant: 1 kg of carmine?
metic development news spread on social media? Well then you are certainly prepared
to ace our quiz: A. Cetrimonium chloride A. Around 5,000
B. Saponified oil B. Around 15,000
C. Sorbitan C. Around 150,000
D. Cocamidopropyl betaine D. Around 1.5 million
1. How do ISO-definitions typically describe 2. Why is it inappropriate to use “100% natural”
synthetic ingredients? labels on products containing iron oxides as
colour additives? 9. Which of the following is originally derived 10. Which of the following faces the least
A. Carcinogenic or non-bio degradable from rooster crowns and is only available sustainability issues:
ingredients A. Iron oxides must be lab- made to eliminate thanks to biotechnology?
B. Ingredients that are highly toxic to risk of heavy metal contamination A. Mica
aquatic life B. Iron oxides are never found in nature A. Sandalwood oil B. Aloe vera
C. Petrol-derived ingredients or ingredients C. Iron oxides are made using unfair trade B. Argan oil C. Palm oil
not deemed “natural” practices C. Ascorbic acid D. Sandalwood oil
D. Ingredients from mineral sources D. Iron oxides are toxic to the environment D. Hyaluronic acid

3. Which of the following products require 4. Why are all iron oxides, used as colour
preservatives: additives, synthesized in the lab? Answers

A. Water-free products, such as balms or oil- A. Not available from natural sources
based serums B. Natural sources are contaminated with Less than five questions right:
B. Products with very low or very high pH, heavy metals -5 That was admittedly a pretty hard quiz and even the most skeptical
such as castile soap or bar soap C. Extraction from natural sources is not scientist could not know it all. Keep being critical of all information

1:C, 2:A, 3:D, 4:B, 5:B, 6:C, 7:B, 8:C, 9:D, 10:B
C. Aerosols with reduced contact with air sustainable you come across.
D. Formulations that incorporate water, such D. “Natural” iron oxides have very poor
as lotion and shampoo efficiency From five to seven questions right:
Well done. You already have all the right makings of a true detec-
5-7 tive and can readily differentiate between facts and “fake news” on
5. What makes the addition of cannabis 6. Why is it difficult to use natural natural cosmetic ingredients. Keep on developing yourself along
CBDs to cosmetic formulations ingredients as colour additives? with your cosmetics.
challenging?
A. Frequently contaminated with Eight and more questions right:
A. CBDs are prone to mold growth heavy metals You’ve earned a gold star sticker. There is no trumping you when it

Answer Key:
B. CBDs are prone to oxidation B. Not economically feasible +8 comes to misinformation about cosmetics development. You know
C. CBDs can cause hallucinogenic effects C. Poor mixing, staining abilities your cosmetic ingredients well and you don’t let popular anecdotes
D. CBDs are a very expensive ingredient D. Potential carcinogenic effects easily muddy up scientific evidence.

24 25
 AQUARIUS
Fresh vibes
Success comes in many forms.
You will find success this season, it
is up to you to recognize it.
Natural ingredient to try: Charcoal
PISCES
It’s time to turn the other cheek. Counter nega-
tivity with positivity and you will have a truly
happy, productive season.
Natural ingredient to try: Tumeric
VIRGO
Time to get physically active. Don’t just make it a
new year’s resolution, stick to a nice sporty hobby
to keep you in good shape.
Natural ingredient to try: Aloe vera
LEO
You will earn high praises this season. Your efforts
at work or in your personal life will finally pay off.
Natural ingredient to try: Licorice extract
26
LIBRA
Time for a vacation. You will greatly benefit by
releasing some stress and your work will still be
there for you when you come back.
Natural ingredient to try: Beta carotene
CANCER
Don’t dwell on any mistakes, learn from them and
move on. No need to waste energy on events that
won’t have any effect on the big scheme of things.
Natural ingredient to try: Olive oil
CAPRICORN
Sometimes cheap things can end up being more
expensive. Spend your budget wisely.
Natural ingredient to try: Marigold
GEMINI
This is the season where you can find a four-leaf
clover if you look for it. Good luck will be all
around you.
Natural ingredient to try: Green tea extract
SAGITTARIUS
It’s time to read a book, subscribe to a magazine,
or sign up to an online newspaper. These are great
sources for inspiration and ideas.
Natural ingredient to try: Chamomile
TAURUS
Any disappointments this season are just a
stepping-stone to something bigger and better in
the near future.
Natural ingredient to try: Vitamin C
SCORPIO
The devil is in the details. Pay close attention to
what is going around you, so you don’t let any-
thing important slide past you.
Natural ingredient to try: Witch hazel
ARIES
You will be surrounded by good karma this
season, so don’t keep it, spread it. Smile at a
stranger, give up your seat for an elderly person,
small acts of kindness go a long way.
Natural ingredient to try: Rosemary extract
Horoscopes that you really
shouldn’t take too seriously
27
 Readers’ Spot!
Finished with the magazine and got something
you want to share with us? Get in touch and send
us any questions or comments regarding cosmetic
science: marketing@buchi.com
We will personally answer your inquiries and the
most inspiring feedback will be published in one
of our upcoming issues.
28
References
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Bucar, F. et al. (2013). Natural Product Isolation--How to Get from Biological Material to Pure
Compounds. Nat. Prod. Rep. 30(4):525–545.
Burger, P. et al. (2017). Whitening Agents from Reseda Luteola L. and Their Chemical Characterization
Using Combination of CPC, UPLC-HRMS and NMR. Cosmetics 4(4):51.
Chemat, F. et al. (2012). Green Extraction of Natural Products: Concept and Principles. Int. J. Mol.
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Global News (2017, Sept 30). The wild and expensive ingredients used in luxury beauty products.
Retrieved January 27, 2020, from https://globalnews.ca/news/3776540/the-wild-and-expensive-ingredi-
ents-used-in-luxury-beauty-products/
Grabenhofer R. (2018, April 17). 6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology. Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Retrieved January 27, 2020 from, https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/eventcover-
age/6-New-Trends-in-Cosmetic-Technology--480082253.html
Harvey, A. (2000). Strategies for Discovering Drugs from Previously Unexplored Natural Products.
Drug Discov. Today 5(7):294–300.
Kerdudo, A. et al. (2016). Development of a Natural Ingredient – Natural Preservative: A Case Study.
Comptes Rendus Chim. 19(9):1077–1089.
Latif, Z. and Sarker, S.D. (2012). Isolation of Natural Products by Preparative High Performance
Liquid Chromatography (Prep-HPLC). In Natural Products Isolation; Sarker, S. D., Nahar, L., Eds.;
Methods in Molecular Biology; Humana Press: Totowa, NJ, pp 255–274.
Plainfossé, H. et al. (2018). Development of a Natural Anti-Age Ingredient Based on Quercus Pubes-
cens Willd. Leaves Extract—A Case Study. Cosmetics 5(1):15.
The Eco Well (2019, May 11). A Hyaluronic Acid 101. Retrieved January 27, 2020 from https://www.
theecowell.com/blog/hyaluronicacid
Walansky A. (2014, July 18). Snail slime, sheep grease and other incredibly weird ingredients in your
beauty products. Today.com. Retrieved January 27, 2020, from https://www.today.com/style/weird-
gross-beauty-product-ingredients-bird-poop-snail-slime-1D79939563
29
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