Introduction...6 Minutes to Mxe...8 ‘SUPPLIES: STOCK UP NOW TO SAVE TIME LATER: ORGANIZE TASKS INTO TIME UNITS Protreat Your Fabric: 20 Minutes Store All Your Project “Ingredients” Together: 10 Minutes Prepare All Pattern Pieces: 10 Minutes Alier the Pattern: 20 Minutes Cut Out the Garment: 30 Minutes Marking the Garment Pieces: 10 Minutes Test and Apply Fusible Interfacing: 30 Minutes Divide Pattern Pieces Into Construction linits: 10 Minutes Set Up Your Machine: 10 Minutes COLLAR CONNECTIONS Wrapped Comer Collars: 20 Minutes Classic Peter Pan Collar: 20 Minutes POCKETS: NEW AND IMPROVED ‘Speedy Sport Pockets: 20 Minutes Professional Patch Pocket: 20 Minutes All-in-One Slendertzing Side Pocket: 10 Minules Flatter Pocket Plaps: 20 Minuies STREAMLINED SLEEVES Easiest Sleeve Easing: 10 Minutes Fold-and-Stitch Hem: (0 Minutes FASTER ZIPPERS, WAISTBANDS & FACINGS Quick Two-Seam Lapped Zipper: 20 Minutes Mistake-Proof Macbine-Sewn Center Zipper: 20 Minutes Waistbands Without Bull: 30 Minutes Facings Applied Fla: 20 Minutes News in Neckline Facings: 20 Minutes FIVE HEMMING SHORTCUTS Prepressed Hems: 5 Minutes Stitch Witebery Hem: 10 Minutes Stitching over Bulky Seams: 10 Minutes Perfect Marked-Tape Pant Measuring: 5 Minutes ‘Quick Patiern-Number Reference: 5 Minutes FINISHING TOUCHES Dependable Buttonhole Patterns: 10 Minutes Songing ., the Wsimale Kime-Saver... 42 AN INTRODUCTION 70 SERGING Understanding Basie Serger Stitches More Stitch Possibilities Basic Tension Setting Special Threads for Serging SERGING: MY FAVORITE TIMESAVING TECHNIQUES FASESERGED 30 MINUTE T:SHIRT SERGE A SHIRT CIN LESS TIME THAN IT TAKES TO SEW ONE) BEYOND SERGER'BASICS legant Narrow Rolled Edging Decorative, Functional HatlockingSupor-Quick Knits...68 NITS: HOW ARE THEY DIFFERENT? Interlocks Jersey Determining the Stretch Percentage of Your Knit Laying Out and Cutting Knits THE BASICS: SIMPLE-10-SEW KNIT SEAMS Machine-Stitcbed Seams | Seams Serge I Decoratively ORGANIZE QUICK KNIT SEWING BASICS INTO TIME UNITS ‘Stabilize Stress Areas: 10 Minuies Special Zipper Application for Knits: 20 Minutes Crossover Mock Turtleneck: 20 Minutes Sweatshirt V-Accent: 20 Minutes Split Collar: 10 Minutes Double Ribbing: 10 Minutes Ribbed Baseball! Neckline: 20 Minutes Johnny Collar: 30 Minutes Clastics—CFastand Fun le Sow...84 ELASTIC LD. Basic Elastics Specialty Blasties NON-ROLL AND BRAIDED ELASTIC TECHNIQUES Updated Hlastic Casing Three Row Elastic Gasing: 20 Minutes Action Wear Waistband ‘Seams Great Elastic Casing: 10 Minutes Quick Hastic Casing for Sleeves SPECIALTY ELASTICS Stitoh & Stretch Bution-Up Elastie—I's Adjustable Drawcord Elastic: 20 Minutes Sew-Through Sport Elastic: 20 Minutes lear Blastie: Gycling Hlastic Stretob Lingerie Lace Needle Know-How Sect Smarts...102 NEEDLE KNOW-HOW: WHICH ONE AND WHAT SIZE? Universal-Point Needles Special-Purpose Needles FEET SMARTS Zigzag Foot Straightstitcbffean Foot Straightstitch Foot Alternative Blindhem Foot Embroidery Foot Pin Tuck Foo! Tailor Tack Foot Overcast-Guide Foot Felling Foot Single Cording Foot Begin to Tew...120 DETERMINING YOUR PATTERN SIZE ‘Take Your Measurements Accurately SHOPPING TIPS Paitern Selection—Keep It Simple Valuable Information on the Patiern Envelope BEFORE YOU CUT ORSEW , Valuable Information Inside the Pattern Envelope Tissue Pattern Basics Tayout and Cutting Tips SUCCESSFUL SEWING BASICS Seams—Bleméntary, But Al-Important Seam Finishing Options Fast, Professional Pressing + Smooth and Durable Darts My Favorite Gathering Method Glossary 134But there are many otbor _fustble tuterfacings. Check. the interfacing secton-of-- you favorite fabri store department store, or catdilog: @ Timesavi Notions: “Zi €) yer fusies are crea uri led: se an bp ‘Pliqué Pressing Shoo ta bop press ou the wrinlbles. Ak though this non-stick prod ct generally used wben ‘ponding fustble werbing to the wrong sidle of a fabric oF: ‘abpligud, it bas aroter use lace the resin side ofthe, corked fusible itoring ‘agains: tbe Appliqué Press fing Shoe Pres. The intor= _fiucirg wll temporary stick to ibe shoet, After waiting a Few seconds fer the fusible ta oo, pel be se fm = = the sheet. Presta! Nomore> cerns. z 10 of plves ed UP NOW TO SAVE TIME LATER Keep a stock of basic supplies such as interfacing, thread, zipper, and batons on band, eliminating time ‘consuming return trips to i Fusible Interfacings re needed for fusing, e inter cs priaved on thin Use fusible inter vinyl rolled with the inte n slip the fora handy re ings 10 save cing on the bolt effort. “Fusibles,” as they nside the storage called, vated resin, When pre side of the fusible will be permanently bonded to the fashion fabric with no sttch> priate types available for 2 range of fabric weights—sheer, light, medium, and heavy When you get your fusible interfacing home, roll it on a cardboard tube so that it won't get wrinkled during storage ings vary in the amount of time, heat, and interfacThreads Whenever possible, buy l 900s in colors that match or hlend with your favorite fabric colors. An example: If your wardrobe includes several shades of red, keep red thread on hand. (Remember for the hest match, choose thread a shade or 2 darker than your fabric) When winding bobbins in basic colors, wind several ata time, You'll use 1 or 2 bobbins per project and stil have a spare. ‘ha’ a lot faster than ning out of bob- bin thread, unthreading your machine, winding the bobbin, and rethreading! Zippers Consider buying zippers “by the yard” or siocking up on commonly used colors, B a apper longer than requiced—it can always be slontened to the exact length desired. Other Basic Notions ‘The most productive seamstresses I know. always have other basic notions—elastics, buttons, linn, hand gain, stick with your basic oF favorite accent colors (or shades that biead. with them), and you'll be surprised at how snaps, hooks and eyes—on ‘well these on-hand notions coordinate with, dilfere projects ‘MINUTES TO ORGANIZE —— @ Timesaving Notions Creale-AZipper is arbile ripper tape tha comes in jar roi with 12 ‘oriinaiod eippor pulls: ‘us 40 use: Simpl deer imine the zipper length nec ess jor. your application (enerally1* longer than the spent), baitac acriss he Sipperieth wih ma ‘chine ziezag stich-at tho de pigih (op anid’ or bet fon); aad Cutt zipper ape, You We in busbnesst @ Timesaving Notions Mandi-Bobs are plaste caps tat ‘old. your bobbin ‘on the en of the spo0, ig treads er andl preventing ness unividing Jus place the bobbin inthe Handi-Bob and Stasi T end of the pou-—— MINUTES TO ORGANIZE TASKS IN Pretreat Your Fabric —— 20 Minules — se recommend pretreating fabrics right after sing them, so that they will be “ready ‘Note from purcl To sdenify te fabri thd for the needle.” Though this may seen ‘ie beenpreinédied ipa unnecessary, the better-safe-than-sorry rule “on comercffibepreiradied i “Pretreat the fabric as you will wash or ign tba clean the finished garment.” Here's why fabric signal that seca Even shrink-resistant fabsies may shrink When machine-washed and dried, Even nly” fabrics should be teamed, or at the least, inepressed at home. By thoroughly st removing cutting out th consistent fit th y residual shrinkage before garment, you will ensure ughout the life of the ‘© Most fabric mills add finishes to fabrics to prevent soiling and wrinkling. Unfortu resin finishes can skip stitches. Pretreating nately, thes the machine fabrics helps remove these resins and pre nt the aggravation of skipped stitches. < + Pretreating will also tell you whether 0 cause washing or steam pressing will remove the nd wrinkles. Ifthe creases avoid those areas when center crease don't disappe laying out the pattern pieces. WK TIME UNITS Guidelines for Pretreating Washable Fabric ‘When you purcha read the care-code label on the end of the fabric bolt. The following list gives the code numbers and explains what they mean, washable fabrics in the delicate cycle of your washing machine. It isnt na full cycle; a short cycle nount of detergent works just necessary t0 with a sill well Ifthe fabric ravels considerably, zigzag or serge the raw edges before washi + Dry the fabric as it will be dried after the garment is completed Read the care-code label.» = Store All Your Project “Ingredients” Together — 10 Minutes — Once you have stocked up on interfa ings, threads, zippers, and other notions, father those needed for your project and Sore them with the pattern ancl fabric (Check the back of the pattern envelope for atber recommended notions, 10 make sure you haven't missed anything.) Now the materials will all be ready and waiting when You have another 10, 20, or 30 minutes to sew. Try 1 of these tried-and-true storage nehods * Wrap the smaller project ingredients inside the fabric and place the fabric on a shelf or in a drawer near your sewing area. Put the easies-to-misplace items, such as buttons or hooks and eyes, in a regu rnailing envelope or * Enclose all items in a harge bag. Clear plastic works best, so that you can see the contents, or + Store fabric, notions, and the pattem in an inexpensive plastie storage basket or bin Gold at most discount and variety stores) ‘This is my favorite method and also the Scorage method we use in the dressmaking department at Nancy's Notions, Lt. Alter you've collected everything required for your sewing project, you're ready for the next sep. Goa Busy Woah weePrepare All Pattern Pieces —— 10 Minutes Another sewing unit that takes 10 minutes Cr less is cutting apart the pattern pieces for the project you have chosen. At this point, cating accuracy is not crucial. Here's all you need 10 do: «Cut out the pieces needed for your projec. + Refold any unused pieces, Replace them in the pattem envelope. + Press the pieces you!ll be using with a warm, dry iron. Steam may cause the pattem tissue to ripple.) + Drape the pieces you'l be using over a hanger, pinning smaller pattern pieces to larger ones, Place the pattem envelope in a plastic bag, hole-punched at the top; hang the bag over the hanger hook Alter the Pattern —— 20 Minutes — Few of us are a perfect size 10. To make a pattem fit, most of us need 10 acl to 1 body area of subtract from another. When you can find a 20-minute time block, alter your pattem, readying it for layout and cutting, Use your favorite method of altering the patter to your measurements and height. If you generally use patterns from the same company (such as Butterick or McCall), ‘you may be able to repeat the same basic alterations from garment 0 garment. ‘A recipe card file is an efficient way to kkcep track of your alterations. On each card, list the pattern number and any adjust ments made. Date the card so that you can see ata glance when the pattera was last used, Have you gained oF lost weight since = aR EEE caiman that time? Then you'll be alerted to readjust your alterations before using the pattern again. ‘You!l save time by adding recipe cards for other people, too. If you sew for your children, mother, husband, or other rela- tives or fiends, these cards will serve as quick references for necessary alterations. Cut Out the Garment 30 Minules ‘When you have a 30-minute time slot available, reserve that time for cutting out your sewing project. Streamline the cutting- ‘out session by following these timesaving strategies: ‘Iwo Layers at the Same Time If you're making a lined skin, stack the skirt and lining fabrics and cut out both at once, Or cut out 2 blouses at the same time Here are some guidelines for “stacking” fabrics «The faleies must bé'the same width. «The fabrics should be no heavier than medium-weight. Heavier fabrics, when stacked, are too bulky to cut easily and accurately. « Pin the 2 fabric layers together along the folded and selvage edges before laying‘ue the pattern Adjoining Cutting Lines + Place slippery fabrics on top. ‘ote: Fabrics that require matching, such _ Whenever possible, place straight cuting ‘8 phids and stripes, cannot be stacked, lines adjacent to each other—you'll be able to make 1 cut for both lines. For example, you can cut the lower edge of a top and the upper edge of a cuff simultaneously. (Check to be certain grain lines correspond.) Patter Weights + Begin by pinning 1 end of the grain line amow on each pattem piece, Measure from z the arrow io the selvage or fold. Shift the ‘Adjoining cutng tines ater, if necessary, until the other end of thearow measures the same distance fom Sharp Shears and Scissors the selvage or fold. (See diagram on oppo- sie page.) Pin the pattern piece in place. For best results, use 8" dressmaker shears 4 Use weights to secure the remaining _for cutting fabrics. Sharpen the shears peri patem edges, Position the weights near the _odically 10 ensure clean-cut edges. Use a elges of 1 piece and cut it out. Then move sharpening stone to hone cutting edges and the weights to another piece; cut. Repeat _ prevent dull spots. Reserve these shears for ntl all pieces are cut FAST FASHION ELEMENTS: Place transparent tape between the 2 marks on the wrong side of the fabric, ‘extending the tape ends as shown. Wondernder and Pusible Film are fusible webs applied oa paper backing. Similar products avaiable | without the paper backing | ‘are Stich Wiicber, Fine ‘With right ses together, fold the ‘ise, and TransforWeb The corner 10 a poimy, aligning the marks and the iradltonalisefortbewprot, tape. Stitch next (othe tape bat not through ucts is save time when it, forming the miter. making applepudl fabric ‘Trim the seam "0 $6" from the pieces Butnarcuisnts of stitching, Repeat forthe otier comer. Wonder-nder can also bea real tine saver when post tioning packets arid fusing henines. D Notions’ Mm The bindbem foo is included 2. Turn the pocket right side out, Press fn most seving the seam allowances to the wrong side. ‘machine accessory boxes 3. Fuse interfacing to the hem allowance. Although desgned for ma- chine-blindbeming, ti also works wel fr edgesttcings the tiny adjustable arm sertes as a bandh stitching guide inter‘acing = allowance 4. Stitch the side seams of the pocket them. Press the seams to 1 side and then press them open. Grade the seams ancl tim the comers at an angle. Turn the pocket right side out and press. 28 5. To apply the pocket to the garment: * Cut 4" strips of Wonder-Under for ‘web basting, This eliminates the need to stitch over pins, which may cause uneven topstitching lines. A rotary cutter and mat make cutting the web easy, or you can use the " pre-cut strips of Wonder-Under and cut them down the middle * On the inside of the pocket, position the web strips on the seam allowances, about %" to 4s" inside the pockeredge fold. (he web side of Wonder-Under should be next to the fabric, with the paper side up.) Press the strips in plice and then peel off the paper backing, ‘Strips of Wonder Under + Position the pocket on the garment, Cover with a press cloth and press to fuse- baste the pocket to the garment. 6, To-edgestitch the pocket: Replace your machine's standard presser foot with a blindhem foot. + On ihe right side of the pocket, cedgestitch close to the side and bottom edges of the pocket, using the fabric fold as 2 guide for the blindhem foot.All-in-One Slenderizing Side Pocket In only 10 minutes, you can add side pockets to any skint, pants, or shorts, Trad tiorally, separate pocket pieces are stitched to the garment front and back sections. To sive ime and reduce bulk, make my albin- ‘one side pocket: Cut out the pocket as part ofthe garment, These pockets adkl no weight 0 the hip area because there are no Pocket seams to create extra bulk. So the Pockets are perfectly latering and perfect for light- to medium-weight fabrics, 1. To modify the pattern and eliminate the pocket seam * Make a duplicate of the pocket pattem piece out of tissue or waxed paper, transfer- fing the sitching lines, notches, and dot markings, (Now you have @ pocket pattern tojoin to the front garment piece and a duplicate forthe back garment piece.) * Place the original pocket pattem piece on the garment front pattern piece, aligning the stiching lines. Match any nowches and/or dot markings. Pin or tape the pocket patter and garment pattern together, Re- peat forthe duplicate pocket pattern piece and the garment back piece. Stitching lines 2. Position the modified pattern pieces on the fabric. Cat them out 3. To sitch the garment pieces together: + Align the garment/pocket fronts and backs and stitch from the bottom hem edge to the dot marking the lower packet open- ing, Pivot and continue stitching around the pocket to tie waistine edge, Shor} sea * Stitch the short seam from the upper pocket opening to the waistline. No more bulky pocket seams! ‘ PAST FASHION ELEMENTS —— Note from Nancy Because you tape the pocket utter 19 the garment pat- fern and cut it outas 1 rere, you may need act tional fabric forthe wider ieces. Giey the layeut ‘sheiches on the guide sheet a gutck scan before cuing ut the patter, Try repos- Honing the paltern pieces or refolding the fabric to utlze tery square inch, I 904 baven 1 purchased your fab: ic jet, buy’ Ya paca extra of 60" 20ide fabric and Ya yard extra of 45°-wide fabric‘— FAST FASHION ELEMENTS: Flatter Pocket Flaps —— 20 Minules — Most pocket flaps ae lined, so that there is 2 seam at each side. The following tec nique alters the seam postion, making the flap faster to sew, Matter, and less bulky. 1. Use the original flap pattern to cut fusible interfacing for each pocket flap as detailed in Chapter 1 2. Now create a new flap pattern + Phoiccopy or trace a second fap pattern ‘ Machine-baste the 2 paper pattem flaps together along each side seam line. * On the top flap, mark a new verical seam, (This will eliminate the bulk of seams at the sides, If the center ofthe flap tapers toa V, avoid placing the new seam there.) + Cut along the marked line and open the pattern, # Tape a P4?-wide sean cach side of the new flap patier, se this new pattern to cut the pocket flaps from your fabric. (This 1 flap piece is all you need.) Cut out a fabric flap for exch pocket 4, Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the original pocket flap. piercing 5. To stitch the pocket Aap: + With right sides together, stitch the vertical seam, Trim and grade the seam allowances and then press them open. + Refold the pocket flap, aligning the lower edges. Stitch the lower edge seam. * Grade the seam and tum the flap right side out. At the side edges, the flap will be folded rather than seamed, (You'll love the flat and smooth way the flap lies on the garment—and on you.) You ma cedgestich the flap if you wish. 6. Appl the pocket flap to the garment following the guide sheet instructionsCreamlined SLEEVES Easiest Sleeve Easing 17, Minules — Here's a little-known yet tied-and-true technique you can use to ease setin sleeves Gickly. Use 2 pereils with erasers t0 ease the fullness from the sleeve cap! You'l find that ths “eraser easing” is faster and more ‘curate than the tracitidnal basted easing And once the sleeve cap is eased, it's fast and easy to set the sleeve intg the arm- hole—free of puckers. 1.Place the sleeve under the presser foot 1 ofthe notch posit de into the fabric, about fics edge. 2. Plice 1 pencil eraser on the fabric on tach side of the presser foot, just in front of the needle Lower the ne 3. Pull the erasers outward, away from the presser foot, as you stitch around the sleeve cap, forcing the fabric to stretch on the bias. Stitch a small section and reposition the ‘erasers, Continue stitching to the next notch, Gf you prefer, you may use your fingers to pall the fabric instead of using erasers, but ‘erasers have more grip.)2. Clip the seam allowances atthe hem- andl then trim the seam allowances to _._ ¥, froni the hemline to the lower edge of . the sleeve. Short sleeves can be hemmed in minutes, 3, Fold up the hem llowance and press. using this quick fold-and:stitch technique. 4, Then fold up this hem allowance again, ‘The hem edge is hidden inside the tuck, Press. durable and ravebree for the life of the 5. Stitch 4" from the second fold, cae gurment, For easier maneuvering, hemi the the raw edge of the, hem and creating 2 Sleeve before setting it into the armhole. tuck, 1. Stitch the underarm seam of the sleeve. 6, Tum the hem down and the tuck up; ress the seam 10 1 side and then press it press. open,FAST FASHION ELEMENTS ——- ng Quick Two-Seam Lapped Zipper IF your previous experiences with insert ing zippers were enough to make your blood bei, lax! Eliminate the hassle with ILrequires only an ows of this updated techniq increased seam allowance and a litle pressing chine sitchin 1. Purchase the zippér at 18st 1" to longer than needed. For example, ifthe pattem calls for a 7" zipper, purchase a 9° zipper. This additional length allows you to extend the zipper beyond the top of the construction, assuring even garment duri stitching inthe Zipper tab area 2. To increase the zipper seam allowance © Add 46" to the seam allowance in the Zipper area (for a total of 1") as you are cutting out the pattem. This wider seam allowance gives you more fabric to work with, so that you don't run out when stitel the lap of the zipper, ss sesgul Teigee 33* Cut a %' V-clip to mark the stitching line at the top of the zipper opening on both the left and right seam allowances. ‘These markings are extremely important. 3. Stich the lower portion of the seam into which the zipper will be inserted, stopping at the dot marking the zipper ‘opening and its wider seam allowance. Lock your stitching at the dot by sewing in place several times with the machine's stitch length set at 0 4. To press the seam: * Press the seam open below the zipper opening ‘On the garments ie skte, fokt and press under the entire 1" seam allowance in the zipper area. Use the clip marking and the end of the zipper opening to pesition the fold line, a + On the garment’s right side, press under 7" of the 1" seam allowance 10 create the zipper underlay. (The finished zipper will lap left over right) 5. To insert the zipper: * With the right side of the fabric facing ‘upward, position the closed zipper along and under the zipper underlay, with the bottom of the zipper atthe base of the Zipper opening, Place the undeslay fold next to the right side of the zipper teeth. Make cera the zipper tab extends above the top of the garment. (With short zippers, it should not be necessary to pin the zipper. Merely “fingerpin” the zipper and stitch.) * Position your machine's zipper foot 10 the left of the needle. Stitch next to the fold, from the botiom to the top. * Lap the garments ff side over the garments right side, matching the V-clips, With "wide Sewers Fixit Tape or trans- parent tape, tape the overlap in place. 6. To topstitch the lap: «+ Align a stip of tape along the folded ‘edge of the lapped seam allowance. This provides an accurate guide for the topstitch- ing line + Change the position of the zipper foot so that the foot isto the right of the needle © Beginning atthe bas ofthe Zipper, topsiitch along the bottom edge of the tape and up the side. *# Remove the tape. To complete the zipper inserion: * Move the zipper pull down into the ‘completed zipper placket. Satin-sttch over the ends of the zipper tape at the top of the Zipper for reinforcement. Cut-off the excess zipper tape. Satin slitchingMistake-Proof Machine-Sewn Center Zipper Sundiesses, jumpers, and garments with jewel necklines ali have zippered openings atthe back neckline, Most sewing directions talus to insert the zipper, apply the neck- Tne facing, and then handstiteh the facing edges in place over the top of the zipper. However, with the following timesaving soning technique, the facing is completed eatiely by machine, minimizing bulk and ‘lminating ll tedious hand sewing, 1.To modify and mark the pattern: ‘Trim away 94" from the center back edge ofthe neckline facing Interfacing + Fuse the interfac + Mak each side of the zipper opening onthe garment back, %" from the edge 2.To sttch the zipper in place: * Sitch the garment seam from the beom of the garment to the dot indicating the base of the zipper opening. Press the seam open. * Fold under the 54" seam allow frum the base of the zipper openir pechlne Pres. Seam allowance tothe + Open the zipper and unfold the fabric, With right sides together, align the teeth of the zipper with the pressed crease in the fabric Zipper teeth © Zigzag the zipper tape to each seam allowance 3. To sit * Wit the facing to the neckline right sides together, align the FAST FASHION ELEMENTS —— Note from Nancy Ifvour machine have a ba b setting, drop the machine feed dogs ana sew several mediun:-width slezag stitches toro the facing and seam-allowance layers. Wath the fed does vil dropped, the fabric will notfacing and garment at the center back opening, Stitch, Y | Interfacing * Stitch the shoulder seams of the facing, Then stitch the shoulder seams of, the garment * Align the shoulder seams of the garment and the facing, Pin. At the center- back opening, the garment will wrap around the zipper because the acing was trimmed 94" * Sitch the neckline/facing seam, + Grade the seam allowances and Uundersttch. Tum right side out 4. To topsite the zipper in place: * Close the zipper. * Press the garment from the right side so that the fabric meets, covering the zipper teeth, * Center a length of s"avide transpar- ent tape over the seam. + Using the tape asa stitching guide, topstitch the zipper in place. Stitch next 10 the tape, but not through it Waistbands Without Bulk —— OU Minutles— If you shy away from pattems with sepa- rate Waisthands because of bulk in the ‘waistline seam, help is on the way. Try this technique, which eliminates much of the bulk by removing part of the seam allowance before the band is cut. Here's how: 1, To cu the band: * Fold under 7 along the long un- notched edge of the waisthand pattern, * If possible, place the folded edge of the patter along the selvage edge of the fabric to provide a neat, ravebfiee edge, (If it cannot be placed on the selvage, after ‘cutting out youll need to finish the edge by igeagging or serging,} * Cut but the pattern and and centers 2.'To interface the band: * Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, Interfacing should not extend into the seam allowances. k notches+ Ifyou are using WaistShaper, position the center slot along the fold ine. One side cf WaistShaper is %' wider than the other. Position the wider side along the selvage or finshed edge of the band and fuse, 3. To stitch the band: + With right sides together and notches aligned, stitch the waistband to the garment ‘The waistband will extend beyond the garment on exch end, * Grade the seam allowances, trimming the waisthand seam allowance to 14" and te garment seam allowance t0 3 * To reduce waistband bulk even futber, cut the garment seam allowances and dart at an angle from the stitching line tothe cut edge. * Cutoff any excess zipper tape. Satin- stich over the ends of the zipper tape 10 reinforce i. # Press the seam flat. Then press the waisband up, covering the-seam 4. To stitch the ends of the band: * With right sides sogether, fold the band along the center sto, aligning the ends. (The lower edges will not meet; 1 edge will extend beyond the other.) * Stitch 9 from the ends, Trim and grade the seam allowances ancl angle-cut the comers ‘ ' i ‘¢ Turn the waisthand right side out, For sharp comers, use a Collar Point & Tube ‘Turner, To secure the remaining edge of the waistband: *# Pin the back of the waistband to the skirt, covering the waist seam. Pin from the right side of the garment. The selvage or finished edge of the band will extend '6" below the waistline stitching ‘* From the right side of the garment, stitch in-the-citch of the seam. The extension will be caught and secured by the stitching, and the finished hand will be perfectly neat and even. ‘FAST FASHION ELEMENTS —— @ Timesaving K. Notions ls: pinbing shearsto grade ‘and trim seam al lowances in { step, When ye are using ighwerght Jeabrics, trim bath sean a lowances simultaneous, To mince dl by asi beaver fabri, cut occ al- owance separate @ Timesaving ‘Notions Pellon Wats Shaper manes Interfacing wa ‘bands even easier! available in TA" and 2" fntsbed widths, thas perforations long the conter that sone Ss poston guides. You'd obtain absolutely ungorm 37\- — FAST FASHION ELEMENTS: Timesaving Notions Seams Great isa "wide nylon Iricot strip that neatly bids raw edges without deine bul. Gently pull Seams Grea io deter ‘mine the cur directions place the rau edge ofthe fabric inside the curl. While you are 2igzagaing it in place, gently pul tbe Sears Great. I will ausomaticaly cut over the rate ede to be Finisbed. CBevause Seams Great is made from a lou. lemperature fiber, asd toxecbing i tet a bot iron.) Eacings Applied Flat For a quick and easy facing variation, try sewing the facings to the garment sections. before seaming the shoulder lines or arm- holes. I's so much faster to work in the flat instead of manipulating circles, You can’t beat this approach when facing the tiny necklines and armholes found on children's wear, 1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong sides Of the front and back facings, 2. Finish the raw edges of the facings with ig, vigzagging, or Seams Great, 3. Aligning the cut edges and matehing notches and markings, stich the facing to the garment. 4, Grade the seams, timming the facing seam allowance to 14" 5. Press the seams flat and then press toward the facings, 6. Understtch, sewing the seam allowances to the facings with ether straightsitch or muki-zigzag, Uncerstitching 7. To stitch the shoulder or underarm seams: * Align the stitching lines of the gar- rment front and back pieces exactly where the facings join the garment. Pin together Matching seams exactly is essential Garment back ‘Armhole facing * Stitch continuously, from 1 Facing edge to the other facing edge. Because seam angles sometimes vary, i may be necessary to pivot your stitching slightly when you reach the point at which the Facing seam meets the shoulder sear, Neckline ‘acing, lAmboe facing 8 Press thy seam allowances flat and then press them open. Within the facing section, trim the seam allowances to % 9. To tack the facing to the garment + Tun the facing to the wrong side of the garmentneckline, Stitch around the entire neckline in a continuous seam, 4, Trim and grade the neckline seam allowances, trimming the facing allowance Yi and the garment to approxi allowance to 3", 5, Press all seam allowances toward the ing and undersiich. 6 To stitch the back opening: + Pin the facing to the buck opening, aligning the back opening lines. The neck: ine seam allowances will “wrap” toward the + Place the facing seam allowance and facing side, eliminating bulk at the neckline ‘oresponding garment seam allowance edge. under the sewing machine needle. (Be sure the girment is pushed out of the way.) # Adjust the sewing machine for a gag barack. Bar-tack through the Facing and gament seam allowances only. Do not sich through the garment News in Neckline Facings Paters with a back slit opening tradi tionaly siggest stitching the neckline and iheslt in 1 operation, How many times WES fave you attempted such an opening anc ended up with edges of different lengths? Isa common problem. The next time you Ube a pattem with a neckline facing, try this plated technique. Ic gives superior resus every tine. 1. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the neckline facing, Finish the outer edge of the icing 2.0n both the facing and the garment Tuck, mark the cutting line for the back opening with a washable marking pen. 3, With right sides together ard matching seam lines and cenvers, pin the facing to the a + Center strip of !6"-wide basting tape over the stitching line + Shorten your stitch length to 12 t0 15 stitches per inch, stitch along beth sides of the basting tape, tapering to 2 point at the to stress, restiteh along both sides of the point for reinforcement ‘+ Remove the basting tape and cut along the back opening, + Tum the facing to the inside and tend of the opening, Since this area is subject ‘FAST FASHION ELEMENTS —— @ Timesaving Notions Bastin tae commonly used ‘opin slippery fab res geben, When Ise toi acing Tse the nar. rowest width, 16" asa stitching gle, Hs ic tp accurately sth lies a! gv; bat tte that are tape, youl have perfect stitching Hines every time@ Timesaving Notions The Dit: Hem Gauge has. a straight and a curved edge Bach edge has near mals indicaing 1, fold up the hem al- loweance over the gouge to the desired hemline mark, ‘and press By using the Rage, sou willalso avoid eavtg @ hem-edge impres. ‘Sion on the right side of te fabric, The fearr-a-ma- ” ii isa notion de- signed bel | your machine sitet over thick sean, pocket ard belt ops. 1 wor on te same princphé is stich: ing over bulky Seams Bid Deca W besa levine suajace tet tbe machine lide oer those bumpy Semis more ready. “> —— FAST FASHION ELEMENTS ‘bem depths. Place the gauge ‘on the wring side ofthe fab HEMMING SHORTCUTS Prepressed Hems 5 MAbinules— Prepress any hem while the fabric Lies fat! Then, after the project has been stitched together, you can touch up the prepressed hhem to ready it for hand or machine stitch ing, Try this the next time you're sewing children’s sleeves or any area that is cificule to press after itis sewn in a circle, Stitch Witchery Hem — 1 Miniles— Stitch Witchery. works like a charm when you're hemming garments, The trick is to keep the bonding web on the fabric while fusing, and not on the icon, To prevent this messy problem, serge (or zigzag if you don't have a serger) the bonding web to the ‘wrong side of the ecige of the hem. Serging secures the bonding web, trims the web and fabric edges evenly, and finishes the edges, all in | step. When you apply a heated iron to the right side of the fabric, the hem will be fused precisely, without the danger of ‘exposing the web to the iron. Stitch Witchery Stitching over Bulky Seams W Minulea—— When stitching over bulky seams (in jeans and other heavyweight fabrics), it can be difficult to sew smoothly over the seam. The foot tits upward and stitches unevenly or jams, To solve this common sewing cilemma, soll up a scrap of fabric and, when. approaching the bulky seam, place it under the back of the presser foot or try using a Jean-a-ma-jig. This levels the foot and en ables you to sew easily over the bulk, with cout skipping stitches, Perfect Marked-Tape Pant Measuring —— 9 Miinules—— To hem pants, fist ty them on and place a pin at the desired length, W folded and the inseam and sic aligned, l Lift up 1 leg and measure the inseam from etch jp the pin. Mik this measure ment on your tape measure. You will never h the creases seam the pants op the ironing board. have to try on pants when hemming (unless you change your mind about fength or your size changes). Use your marked tape for a just-right length, “every time.Quick Pattern- Number Reference Before you hem a garment, stitch the pattem number in the hem allowance. ‘Try these seldom-used monogram stitches on Dependable Buttonhole Patterns E Luli Because machine buttonholes are one of the last construction details ackled 10 a sgaiment, the buttonhole placement mark: ings you transferred to the fabric when you cut out the garment may disappear by the time they are needed. ‘To avoid remarking the project, make a buttonhole pattern at the tine you cut out the garment, Make the buttonhole pattemn out of a temporary stabilizer, such as Wash-Away or Sttch-N-Tear, I recommend that you use this temporary stabilizer over your fabric when Jou stitch buttonholes, because it provides axltional support for light- to medium- weight fabrics, Using this inslovative tech- nique, the stabilizer serves 2 purposes: It not ‘aly support the fabric, but it also marks the buttonhole placement your sewing machine, Or use a laundry marking pen and write the number directly ‘on the fabric, Then, when someone compli= ments you on your outfit and asks what pattem number itis, you can simply look inside the jacket, or fip up the hem of your skint and presto—you're always ready with the right answer wide by the length of the buttonhole area 2. Place the stabilizer on the pattem, 1 Hong edge on the fold line. Mark the siitching line at the neckline edge. 3. Trace the lines for the center front and the buttonhole placement 4, To stitch the buttonholes: + Place the stabilizer over the button- hole aréa, matching the buttonhole to the fold fine and neckline edges. Pin in place. * Try on the garment, Ifa buttonhole does net fall atthe center of your bust line, ‘move the Sabilizer srip up or down. (A buattonhole placed at the bust line will prevent “gaposis.”) Repin the strip if neces sary to make an adjustment * Machine-stitch the buttonholes over the markings on the stabilizer. * Afterall the buttonholes are com- pleted, tear away the stabilizer. (If small sections of the Wash-Away remain, simply sprtz with water to make them disappear.) ‘FAST FASHION ELEMENTS g) Timesaving Notions os marking stitching lines on it, 4lRemember, because the fab- ‘ric is cut before it serged, ‘tisessrmial tht you guide the fabric accurately uncer the fot. (No adjustmenss canbe made at ibe needle.) ia Sore, ten cit, make sure that te fabric layers fit in toe "mottb™ — opening. = ‘AN INTRODUCTION TO a Serger terminology may be foreign to you now, but reading through these brief defini- tions should belp you understand this new sewing language, ‘You will generally hear sergers described by the number of threads used on the machine, such ay “3threach” *3/4-thvead,* “4/2thread,” or “S-thread serger.” Some ‘models can be converted to produce addi- tional stitches; for instance, some 3/4-and Sthread machines have 2-thread capability. + Loopers: Instead of bobbins, sergers have loopers, which loop the threads to- gether in a knit-live fashion, * Feed dogs: Sergers have tecth-like tippers, called “feed dogs,” nested in the throat plate. Feed dogs on a serger are nearly twice as long as feed dogs on a sewing machine, + Presser foot: The extri-long presser foot seldom needs to be raised when begio- ning to serge. Simply lay the fabric on the machine and begin to sew; the fabric will be evenly fed under the foot, In addition to being longer than their counterparts on a conventional sewing machine, most serger feet have a “stich finger” over which the stitches are formed. Two standard feet ave generally included with your serger: 1 with 4. wider stitch finger for basic overlock seaming and 1 with a narrower stitch finger for narrow-edge serging. * The upper looper thread is the second (on a Sthread serger) or third (on a 3/4 or S-thread serges) thread from the right, This thread does not pass through the fabric; instead, it passes over the surface of the fabric, catching the needle thread on the left and the lower looper thread on the right «* The lower looper thread is the kas thread cone on the right on all but Sthread sergers. (On 5-thread machines, i is fourth from the right.) Like the upper looper thread, the lower looper thread does not pass through the fabric; instead, it passes underneath the fabric, catching the needle threacl on the left and the upper looper thread on the right. Blades: The cutting is done by 2 blades: 4 stationary blade.and a second blade that moves up and down in synchronization with the needle(s), Working together in a jrw- like configuration, the blades *bite” the fabric as you stitch, trimming the seam allowances to 4. + Tension disks or dials: There is 1 tension disk or Grop-in dial for each thread, ‘The tensions usually need at least minor adjustments when chatiging fabrics, stitches, or threads, + Stitch Iength dial: This dil determines the spacing of the stitches. Stitch length on most sergers ranges from about 0.5. mm to 5 mm (from fine satin sexing to about 4 to 5 stitches per inch).Sitch wieth cal {behind looper cover * Stitch-width dial: This optional dial is “alent to the blade area, As the name inples, this dial adjusts the stitch width— thedisance between the needle and the ales—also referred to 28 the “bite.” As with other senger measurements, the width {sgven in millimeters: 0°5 mm to 5 mm (rom very natrov: to about %" to 4"), with Some sergers capable of stich widths up to 75 mm (4 * Needles: Although basic 2- and thread 1s have 1 needle, models having 4- or id capability have 2 needles, as shown ht. One needle or both can be used, depending on the widih and type of stitch desed, Take note of the type of needle ‘Tension dials Your serger requires. Athough most use regular sewing machine acedles (shank with 1 flat side), some requize industrial overtock needles (round shank). The industrial nee les may he more dificult to find.Understanding Basic Serger Stitches 3-thread Overlock A 3:thread overlock stitch can be produced ona 3.thread, 4-thread, or S-thread serger. In this sttes, the threads interlock with the needle thread on the left, and the upper and lower looper threads loop together at the fabric’s edge. When the looper tensions are hralanced, the stitch looks the same on both sides. The 3thread overlock stitch, generally used for seaming or edge-finishing, is ssretchy (ideal for knits) and is very versaile for decorative serging. Try heavier threads, ribbons, or yams in the loopers —Upper looper thread Need thread }—Lower looper thread Wrong side 3/4- or 4/3-thread Overlock ‘A 3/4-thtead overlock stitch adds a second needle line to the right of the primary seam line. The second line of thread uns through both loopers, creating a stitch that is more stable and durable than the 3-thread stitch, For specialized serging applications, either needle may be renioved. Ifthe right needle is removed, the left needle makes a wider 3:thread stitch. Ifthe left needle is removed, the right needle makes a narrower 3thread stitch, With this stitch, intriguing decorative serging is possible. Upper looper ti Lett needle thread Fight needle th Lower looper thread —— Wrong side More Stitch Possibilities ‘These serger stitches are used for more specialized applications than the basic overlock siitches 2-thread Overedge ‘The overedae stitch is formed by thread from | needle and 1 looper: the needle and upper looper of a 4/2-, 2/3/4-, or S-thread serger, or the needle and single looper of a 2thread serger. An overedge stitch is perfect for finishing eclges on lightweight fabries and for 1-step fatlocking (see page 63), but it must be used in connection with another stitch, Because the upper and lower threads do not lock at the seam line: the overedge stitch cannot be used alone to stitch seams, ‘Upper looper thread Needle thread Needle thread from wrong side ‘Wrong side2-thread Chain Stitch Ona 4/2thresd serger, the site is formed by thread from the left needle and from the lower Jooper thr thread chain , Lettneedie thread ‘Wrong side Lower looper thread On Sxhread sergers, the stitch is also fonmed by thread from the let needle and the lower looper thread. On some sergers, the timming blades can be disengaged and ihis stich can be serged anywhere on the fabric, without trimming simultaneously, On other sergers, the chain stitch must be serged slong an edge. For decorative topstitching, especialy if heavier or decorative thread! is used in the looper, serge with the right side of the projec next to the feed dogs. True 4-thread Stitch The true 4 seiged on a machine with 4/2-thread capa- biity, such as 2 4/2-serger and most 5 ihvead sergers. The sutch combines a Mlwead chain stitch and a 2-hread aad stitch can only be Upper looper thread ‘Right neadie thread Left needle thread Upper looper thread ‘Wrong side Lower looper tread overedge stitch, and is best suited for use on woven fabrics or for stabilizing streichy fabrics 5-thread Stitch This is the strongest ofall serger seams. Five threads are used at 1 time—2 threads to form the double chain stitch and 3 threads to overlock the edges. Upper lcoper thread, Fight needle thread Lott needle thread ight lower looper thread —— Right needle thread Let lower locpar thread —— Wrong side Basic Tension Setting For most seaming, an overock stitch should be “bakancec.” When balanced, the stitch will look the same from the right and wrong sides; the 2 loopers will interlock on the left with the needle thread and on the right, at the fabric edge, with each other. The needle thread should hug the fabric and the looper threads without forming loops or causing puckers. When you receive your serger, the ten- sions will be set for a balanced overlock stitch. Some brands mark the tension dials or disks with an “N° for normal (balanced). Unbalanced tension— Loopers do not intertock at fabric e0ge. — Wrong side SERGING, ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER For an easy way o trouble shock serge tension prob lems cond io beter under sand the postion ofeach thread wlibin tbe sich, practice with a different ob ‘red thread n each needle ‘and looper. You'l east see ‘which thread requires tn Sion adjctent. Ifthe over- loch isnot banca, bagi by teosening the ionper tbat soa tight. Adjus the leper tensions rs. tfyou dont se enough of the ire, soins respec te _seeto0 much of the thread (excess bap), Rebtening & required Having difficulty remem ering whic we tar ‘sour lension dials orasks? Aby friend, serger expert Gati Brown, 0 on the catchy phrase “nghtytigbty and Tefloasey” for tension ‘sls For drop-in tension dials remeraber “uptight oust loose.” When i. dot, refer to your cuner's mara a7‘THE UUTIVATE IESE @ Timesaving Notions ‘Usou can't find Somer thread to ‘mach ous fubric: obo. use regular sev thread in the needle Top ich tread spo th somer cap. The cap fis tn te tp cpening ofthe spl ‘Preventing the tread rom eaiching nthe sci the sim of thesponl Buen och this beaver toad will ot nosleably Increase the weight of ibe sea because the needle thread stiches mexsouight tine: Special Threads for Serging Coned Serger Thread In contrast tq all-purpose sewing thi Which consisis of 3 strands of yarn cwisted together (-ply), serger thread is 2-ply Bec than conventional sewing machines— usually 3 10 5, depending on the type of se Sergers stitch with more threads seam—they need this lighter-weight thread to reduce bulk at the seam line On most sewing machines, the upper thread feeds from the side of the spool through the tension guides to the eye of the needle, Ordinary sewing thread, therefore, «wound pariicl with the top of the spool However, the thread path for sergers re quires that che thread feed from the top of the spool, For this reason, seq thread is path, usually on tapered cones, to ease feeding from the top. cis available in a wide wound in a spir Coned serger variety of colors. If you have a specific abric color to match, consider m: only the needle thr 1d (the thread that is visible ifthe seam is strained), Because the looper threads will not show from the cght meni, they do not ly side of the finished gi need to match the fabric color ex Decorative Thread— Exciting Options Try using 1 or all of these specialty hireadls in your serger to create wondeefil decorative effects * Machine embroidery thread (Sulky, DMC Embroidery Thread, YLI, Duct! Duty Plus). Embroidery thread is avaitable in icher ie this lustrous Hrread is lightweight, tension adjustment is seldom nécessary. These threads are gener ally sold parallel-wound on traditional * Texturized-nylon thread (Meiroflock Woolly Nylon), This thr twvisted, and has more stretch than either eacl is spun, norserging or all-purpose thread. Because itis sofier than other threads, itis often used when sexging lingerie, baby clothes, swimwear, and leotards. Also, because itis not twisted, itis frequently used when increased thread coverage is needed for ‘arrow-rolled and decorative serging. When ou use this thread, you may need to loosen | the needle or looper tension slightly + Metallic thread. This lusirous thread le beauiflly accents dressy garments and agcessories, Use it in 1 or both loopers when overlocking, narrow-rolled hemming, or flatlocking seams. Because of the metal : content, this thread is a bit wiry and consid t eably more brittle than ordinary threads. Fhncle with care when threading loopers and needles, loosening tensions if necessary. + Topstitching thread, This widely available specialty thread works well in the lcoper(s) of a 3:thread overlock or 2-thread chain sitch, Although some loosening of the tension(s) will be required, | ind ic to be 1 of the easiest-to-use decorative threads. Look for it en 55-yard spools in a range of fashion colors + Pearl cotton (also available in fayon). Like topstitching thread, pearl cotton adcs a glossy accent when used in us] the loopers. Because of its popuarty for j seruing, itis now available on eross-wound r- J cones. The most common size is #5 (the bigger the size number, the finer the thread), You may also id pearl cotton sold i} inskeins for embroidery and crochet. How- ver, the skeins are relatively short (uscally Jess than 10 yards). To use them in your Serger, you will have to wind the thread onto an empty cone * Ribbon floss. For shiny, 3-cimen- sional stitch, use this Yis-wide mini-nbbon, itis conveniently cross-woung on a 40-yard spool Use ribbon floss in the looper(s), * Decor 6, This is 1 of the most lussrous decorative threads available for serging, Made of 100% viseose rayon filament, it feeds smoothly throughs the upper or lower Iboper guides and eyes. As when using other heavy threads, you must loosen the looper tensions when using Decor 6. * ThreadFuse. A polyester thread twisted with a heat-ativated fusible fiber, Thread- Fuse bonds 1 fabric lke magic, with a touch of a steam iron, Changing Threads— The Fastest Method Don’t rethiread your serger from scratch each time you change thread. You'll save time and aggravation by using this tied-and- true tie-on method instead. Many years ago, I purchased my frst serger by mail! I removed it from the box and noticed that the machine was threaded with 3 strands clipped right above the thread rods. Not realizing they were there for a purpose, { proceeded to pull out all 3 threads, Fory-five frustrating minutes later, as I was sill tying to thread my senger, 1 finally read the directions. They began: “Tie the new thread color to the clipped thread tails” Wouldn't that have been easier? Lea from my mistake—contt pull out the thread! * Clip the existing threads close to the thread cones or spools. Remove the cones ‘or spools from the thread rods * Put nev cones or spools on the mods and tie the new threads to the existing threads (use slip or square knots). Pll test the knots, making sure they are secure. IF not, re‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER SERGING; Pattern Pals aro | pressuresersitve Symbols that make sransfering pattera detats 1 fabric very easy, deat for smarking notes, dens, and. circles on seams that wl be Senge, ibey eliminate the need for nipped markings erHiead Pins when seizing. The “Poiver Bead es fa the fabri, yet 18 easy to, “grasp and easy 10 locate when you are serine Seam. Plus, because tbe pins ‘are era tong (29, you use ewer pins foreach sean 50 + Trim the thread tails close to the knots. * Clip the needle thread above the needle oye. + Tum all tension dials to the loosest settings. * Chain off'a couple of stitches. (The looper threads will separate because youve clipped the needle thread.) * Pull the looper threads through the machine, gently feeding the knots past the tension guides and dials or disks. # Pull the needle thread until the knot reaches the eye of the needle. Clip off the knot, Rethread the needle, using serger veevers if necessary. # Return the tension dials to the normal (balanced) settings MY FAVORITE TIMESAVING TECHNIQUES Fast, Effective Marking ‘Transfer the pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric (along the seam line, if possible) with a washable marking pen, Although a common method of mark- ing notches for sewing-machine construction is to make 14" nip markings into the seam allowance, these markings are not as useful for serger construction. If you cut your garment pieces using standard 34 seam allowances, the senger will trim away the nip markings 2s you stitel And if you cut the pieces using a M4’ seam allowance, the nip markings will weaken the seam, Safe Pinning Place pins parallel to the seam and 1" from the cut edges. Don't pin at right angles to the seam (as you do when stitching on a conventional machine). The serger knives might cut into a pin you forget to remove, dulling or camaging the bladesAccurately Gauging Serged Seam Allowances seam allowance is from "4" to 9G mm to 10 mm) wide—perfect for ptimns with, lowances! But if your pattern h dign the cut edges of the g with the seam-width guide printed on the looper cover. If your serger does not have ecermine a point %" from the needle, so that the needle will stitch on the patern seam line, Mark this position nt pieces | Tape or serger guide Ravel-Proofing Ends of Seams Like si serged seams should beginning and the end, But because a serger does not backstiteh, you these alt stitched on a sewing machine ecured at the tive methods * Apply a drop of seam sealant or n. Allow it to dry and clip the end of the se thread tail Use a darmi needle or other large- eyed needle to bury the thread tail under the looper threads. SERGIN ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER Timesaving ‘Notions The Server Gt ide. a deoal that at “aches to the lcoper ‘over and tachides "2%, 76", Nand Pe muarkings * @ Timesaving Notions a Fray: No-one, are matte: of {a sotorroof scone “on The do 0k wes ut! ‘Adiop sal hat seeded a sheen of aserget seanSERGING; ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER A sexger can quickly and professionally assemble a rib-rimmed top, Tshirt, or sweatshirt, Rather than sewing the neckline or cuff and ribbing in a circle and then serging the 2 together, the ribbing is ap- plied to the garment flat, Here's how: 1. Adjust your serger for a 3/4-thread or wide 3-thread balanced tension overlock stitch, Use serger thread in the needle(s) and looper. 2. Serge | shoulder seam wit together. Include a piece of Stay 30 MINUTE T-SHIRT exged 8 you serge. Or fuse a in. strip of interfacing to the of the back-shoulder seam line before serging 3. To apply the neckline ribbing * Dividg the nibbingyand the neckline into fourths, Mark the quarter poinss wit pins or a washable marking pen. This is called ‘quarter-marking, * Pin the shirt and ribbing together, with right sides together and quarter marks hing,+ Senge the ribbing to the neckline, sretching the ribbing to the shirt, Be careful toalign the ribbing ends evenly with the lussewn shoulder-seam edges. 4, Serge the remaining ribbing and shoul er seam, including the Stay-Tape or inter- facing in the shoulder seam. The ribbing ends shoul match at the neckline edge. ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER 5. Serge the sleeves to the armhole. 6. Apply the cuff ribbing in the manner described in Step 3. 7. Serge | side/underarm seam, being careful 10 match the ribbing edges at the beginning and end of the stitching 8. Apply the ribbing to the waistline in the ‘manner described in Step 3 -ctire the ends of neceline sess, ry te tore ta instead of appbybig seam sealant 9. Serge the remaining side seam as described in Step 7. 10, Seal all the thread tals with seam sealant. When it dries, clip off the excess thread ends, aShivt S Oe LESS TIME THAN IT TAKES TO SEW ONE) g Serge a shir, fas! Sergec seams, particu- hnty 3/4, 4/2-, or Sthread seams, are duable for both knit andl woven fabrics. “éontrary to sewers fist assumptions, serg- ing can be used to sitch inside comers, suchas collar and lapel areas, The key is vrapping,” a new technique that dramati- aay enhances the versatility of serging, Serger “Prep” Work + Fuse interfacing to the fabric pieces that need to be interficed. Follow the pattem ‘guice sheet directions. 1 » *# Mark notches, dots, and any other necessary markings on the seam lines with @ ‘washable marking pen or tailors chalk. 53Note from Nancy For accurate seaming when sorging a garment, always ‘becarefulto align the nee- die ine with the "seam dine. < 54 3. Fold the collar, with right sides to gether, (The seam allowance should be wrapped toward the under collar.) Serge the ends of the collar, Press the seams flat. Turn the collar right side out. Press. 4. Serge the shoulder seams, 5. Pin the underside ofthe collar to the tight side of the garment neckline, matching the notches, dots, and center-back markings 6. Pin the front facing o the neckline seam with right sides together. (The collar will be sandwiched between the garment ind the facing.) Do not pin the center-tront edges of the facing and garment together Gf you are working wih a shirt front and facing that are a single piece, simply fold right sides together along the fold lines, Sandwich the collar between the garment ancl facing Then omit Steps 9 and 10.) ‘The Best Serging Order 1. ace the under collar and upper collar ght sides together. Serge the outer, uunnotched edges, 2, Press the serged seam allowance fat and then press it toward the under coll From the right side of the collar, using conventional straight stitch, understitch the serged seam allowance to the under collar 7. Senge the neckline seam, Understitchingcease the cap into the armhole, serge with the sleeve side down, next to the feed dogs. 13. Serge to finish the raw edges of the sleeve and bodice hems, 14, Pin the sleeve/side seam with right sides together. Serge the seam in the di tion shown, Necktine 8 Press the seam flat. Then press the seam allowance to the garment side. 15, Press the hem allowance to the wrong 9, Alin the gament and front facing, side of the blouse, Topstitch with your ‘with right sides together, Pin the center front conventional sewing mach ‘seam, wrapping the neckline seam allow- stright stitch, ‘nce tothe garment side 10. Serge the center front seam, Press the seam flat Wap tte 16. Stich the butionholes using your ‘teckling conventional sewing machine. seam toward the “garment Serge-and-Fuse Trim Try this decorative technique when you are lining a jacket. Serge the facing and lining sections together, using decorative thread in the upper looper (for pipinglike accents) and fusible thread in the lower Jooper (for assembly speed). Just serge and 11. Tum the facing with right side out, fse—the senged seam becomes the décora- fokiing along the seam line. Press, aligning tive “trim.” the seam line along the edge: 1. Adjust your serger for decorative/fus- 12, Pin the sleeve to.the armhole, with right ible 3/4-thread overlocking. (Phe right sides together and notches matching, To help needle line adds needed strength t0 the seam.) * Use decorative thread in the upper Jooper, serger or all purpose thread! in the needles, and fusible thread (such as Thread ‘Shoulder Fuse) in the lower looper. ioe © Set the stitch width at the widest setting, 2. To serge the front-facing ining seam: * Press up the hem allowances on the lining piecesfusible spread is not part of yur sening supplies, lopsilek toe sengee 60: instock of fusing tt Ui. auatching all-purpose thread in your conventional sewing machine lap and edgesitch the serged svar so the garment. * Pin the front lining piece to the front facing, with wrung sides together * With the facing on top, serge the seam, For accuracy, the left needle line should serge along the %" seam line # Press the se red seam allowance toward the lining. The fusible threacl will fuse che seam to the lining, Place an Appliqué Press- ing Sheet under the lower part of the facing edge to prevent the fusible thread from fusing to the ironing-board cover 3. To serge the back-facing/lining sear: * Pin the back lining to the back-neckline facing, with trong sides together Neckline facing Lining: * Due to the extreme curve of the back facing edge. machine-baste first with your conventional sewing machine. Place the facing down, next to the feed dogs, to help ease it to the lining edge. * Serge the facing to the lining with the facing on top. The left needle should sich along the %" seam ine ++ Press the serged seam allowance: toward the lin * Straightstitch the shoulder seams, with right sides togetherSerger Twisis— Timely Accents in No Time! Add designer detailing with “serger twisis, threads in the upper and lower loopers. Then straightstiteh the rows in alkernate ddrecions, The serging twiss, showing off the differen: looper thread cos, 1. Adjust the s long 3 for a ide thread! overlock stiteh, (To convert thread stitch, remove the right n hread—contrasting lle.) = Use decoratv colors in the upper and lowe achieve the most dr. needle thread should purpose t fashion fabric the blades on the serger, i Test the stiteh on a scrap of fabric Adjust the looper tensions (heavier deedra- tive threads require loosening) to achieve anced stitch 2, Prepare the fabr © Cuta rectangle of fabri nthe longer tl pattern, Each, tional i" in length. © Mark serging lin ly, about 1%" to able marking pen of tailor’s chalk. 3. To serge along the chalk lines: © Beginning at 1 end of the the fabric with wrong sides toger the first line, Senge gonally of vert apart, using a wash ic, fold wer along Note: if the blades SER ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVERcannot be disengaged, guide the fabric away from the blade area Fold + Continue serging until all the lines are serged as shown, 4, To mark the straightsitching lines with washable marking pen or tailors chalk * Measure the distance between the serged rows. Use this measurement as the space between the vertical rows * Mark the second set of ines at right angles to the lines already serged as shown, 5, To create the “twists * Using conventional sewing machine, straightstitch the first vertical row down over the serged rows, Staightsttch down. t + Straighistitch the next row up, so that the senged seams are twisted, exposing the differeat-colored threads, * Continue straightstitching along the marked lines, alternating directions. Straightsich down, Straightstich up. 6. Cut the pattern piece out of the serged fabric.BEYOND SERGER UWcs Elegant Narrow Rolled Edging Before the introduction of home-use only factory workrooms could wddice the narrow rolled edges seen on “apkin, scarves, and tablecloths. Now, with few adjustments, you, 100, can serge lovely, lightweight stitch, is Adjustments ‘To create this itch, a 3-thread overlock of Ztead overedge stitch is converted to a rolled elge. Tension adjustments are crucial! Hete are general adjustment guidelines for -conceting to 4 narrow rolled edge. (Please your owner's mafual for the exact tings for your serger.) ‘Replace the standard foot with the ow rolled-edge Foot, which has a nar- sith finger than the standard foot. ‘On some sergers, the stitch finger is on a sepante throat plate instead of on the + foo; if so, change the throat plate et Sergers require changing both the foot the throat plate. A few sergers may diopping part of the stitch finger (narrowing the width), instead of changing either the foot or the plate. Regular toot Relled-ecge foot + Nartow the stitch width as much as possible and shorten the setting on the ‘tch-length dials. Begin with a setting of 2 mm-for the stitch length and agjus: it as necessary. + If you are using a 3/4-thread serger, remove the left needle, + You will need to tighten the lower- looper tension considerably. # Test the stitch and adjust the tensions as necessary 10 achieve the desired look. With the upperlooper tension loosened and the lower-looper tension tightened, the upper- looper thread should roll over the edge. Rolled-Edge Troubleshooting Probleme “Pokies’—whiskers of fabric are poking through the rolled edge, especially ‘on the crosswise grain,SERGING, THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER Solution: * Shorten the stitch length, * Widen the stitch “bite” (the distance specific instructions, consult your owner's @ Timesaving manual or ask your dealer, Notions + Use a mullfilament thread that spreads Ifyou do not over the edge, such as Metroflock or ave matching Wolly Nylon. tread, use clear orsmoketined monofila- Probleme The ecige doesnt rll to the ‘ment ibread, size 80, inthe underside. needle and lace locper Tis tread, which resembles ery fine ishing line wil : ‘utara end wtb Ege dosnt practically al fabric estos and help igbten down the dover looper, You find it concentent and econemical Wirong side too, because it's cross wound on king-sized or mini-king-sized cones. Use a the clear thead on med: tun-toigh colored fabrics Solution: ‘and the smoke-tinted thread * Tighten the lower-looper tension. om dark fabrics. © Use texturized or monofilament-nylon, thread in the lower looper. Problem: The edge packers. Solution: * Loosen the needle tension. the looper Narrow Rolled-Edge Options— teasion adjussments are staining the needle 4 “Pouble” Ruffle line, tighten the needle tension. you can serge 2 Problem: ‘he stitch pulls off the fabvic. strips of fabric together to create what looks like a double ruflle, The secret Seam witha narrow rolled-edge stitch. You cin very 5 quickly make yards and yards of 2" trim suitable for use in home decorating, crafis, or children’s wear, ts 1. Adjust your serger for a narrow rolled: edge stitch. © '* Use a decorative thread, such as m- chine embroidery thread, texturized woolly aylon, or metallic thread in the upper s looper: ‘© Use serger or all-purpose thread in a iP color to match the rue fabric in the needle Solution: and lower looper. * Lengthen the stitch, The short stitching is 2, Cut] grip of fabri€'1Y2" wide. Cut too dense for the fabric. (Youll encounter second stip from another fabric 3/2 wie. this problem more on lightweight fabrics) __CWhen seamed together, these strips will * Widen the stitch bite. (See your owner's _yield a finished ruffle width of 2'.) manual.) 3. Place the strips with wrong sides to- * Change the direction in which you are gether and serge, using the narrow rolled- seiging edge stitchNarrow rolled-edge sitch An ina! i at 4. Fokd the serged fabric band in half with tong sides together and press, One sicke wil appear to be a double rufile because of ihe wolled edge joining t \ wrong sides together 5, Sirightstic the ends of the cuflle, with fight sides together, forming a circle. 6,Gather the long unfinished edge and apply the rule 10 your project. Easy, Pretty Pin Tucks Create delicate pin tucks quickly, using Your serger’s narrow rolled-edge sti Serged pin tucks are perfect for heirloom- look blouses, children’s wear, and decorator sccesories 1. Adjust your serger for a medi long narrow rolled-edge stitch, Use n thine-embroidery thread in the needle and looper) 2.Cut a rectangle of fabric approximately 2 to 3° wider than the pattem piece # Mark the pin tuck placement lines Vertically on the fabric, usirig a chalk wheel ora washable marking pen. Lines spaced 1* ‘at will produce pin tucks approximately + Fold along the marked lines, with wrong sides together. 3. Disengage the cutting hlades, if possi- ble. If not, be sure to guide the fabric just slightly to the left of the blade so that itis not accidentally cut, Serge along each fold Presto—instant pin tucks! To make the niost elegant “sere pin ticks, use a deco raawe tread tn the upper 61SERGING, ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER ‘Note from Nancy usualy retommend tbat the interfacing extend Ye Int the seam allowance, ‘thax its secured by ma- chine itching, Howser, since this blewse's outer edges are exposed, wise to trin he the sea Hine Trining ibis way will prevent dy inter- {fcing from showing at he exposed ede. 62 A Quick-Serged Blouse Use the narrow rolled-edge stitch to serge blouses made of light-to-medium-weight fabrics. The quick-serged edge is perfect for jewel-neckline tops or even a blouse with a collar and lapel detailing, The serging is exposed along the stitched edge, resulting in a finish that is decorative and free of bulk Here are the steps: 1. Trim away the interfacing seam allow. ances and fuse interfacing to the wrong sides of the front and back facings. Trimintertacing _ | seam allowance. 2. To adjust your serger for a narrow rolled-edge stitch + Use specialty thiead in the upper looper. In the lower looper and needle, use matching serger or all-purpose thread. + Test the stitch on a scrap of fabric Adjust the tensions and length if necessary for better thread coverage. 3. To serge the collar * Place the collar pieces with wrong sides together, with the upper collar on top * Serge the unnotched edge of the collar. Te rolled-edge stitch is most attractive from side. The needle should stitch along é Sg Upper collar Rolled-edge stitch RS + Serge the ends of the collar with the upper collar on top, Serged end + Place a drop of seam sealant on the thread tails at the edge of the fabric atthe collar comers. After the sealant dries, care- fully clip off the excess tals. 4, Place the front and back pieces with right sides together at the shoulder seams Serge the shoulder seams. (This serged edge will not be exposed.) Shoulder seam 5."To serge the front facing * Pin the Facing to the garment front with twrong sides together. ‘With the facing on top’so that theattacive side of the rolled be exposed, serge the center-ront edge to the ficing, The serger will trim the seam allowances as you serge. “Align the needle line with the “am line. Canter-sront |+—" edge, 6,7o serge the neckline and collar * Pin the righ side of the collar to the turong side of the neckline, matching totes and circles, ‘ Semme the collar to the neckline, with the collar piece on top. The collar must be fn op to have the auractive side of the tlled-edge stitc exposed, Reinforce * seam with /slraight / stitching, With conventional straight stitching, ferlorce the seam line where the collar and ekline meet. * Secure the thread tails with seam sell. Cp off the excess thread T.Fnish the blouse by seaming the sides and sleeves with right sides together. Turn the blouse right side out Decorative, Functional Flatlocking Just about any serger can flatlock—all you need is 3thread or 2-thread stitch capability Afier making tension adjustments, simply serge 2 layers together and then pull them putt untl the fabric is flat. The result? A stitch that is versatile for both decorative ib seaming and “topstitching.” erases “ne and armiboles, Place toe wrong side ofthe facing on ‘Upper looper thread See Right eed treed iy altel ns ‘wit the seam Ene. Loosened right needle teas ‘trong side Easy Adjustments Nee Won Ne Check your owner's manual or workbook DiC Matrteraer iba ‘or specific recommendations. Here are the “br onePedge capability, general guidelines for 3-thread flatlocking: such asa 2374 treed, If seaming, pre-trim excess allowances, ‘some Stb1ead.-and some Although its best to test the wickh of the lute sided pred a= flatlock seam on scraps, you can estimate ccbines facie usialy that the seam will be about 4" mm to 6mm), ‘If “topstitching” with flatlocking (or fold), fold the fabric with wrong sides 10- ether along the line you want to embellish. z * Use the standard presser foot and stitch eerste finger. maybe necessary Insen * Loosen the needle tension to “0” or as ‘both the needle and sooper: mich as possible, ension: * Tighten the lower looper by 4 to 5 zs settings ‘Leave the upper looper at the normal iz tension seiting. z + Guide the fabrie away from the blade. + Use only the def needle of a 3/4-thread or Sthread serger; this will give the widest flatlock stitch.SERGING ‘THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER Note from Nancy To serge the best ltiock ite, the lower Sooper thread shouldbe tightened to forma sratgbt ine in addition toads te tension dials, anoiber tay to tighton the bnver-onpet thread isto tse tested. Wooly Nylon tbreud. This thread stretcbesns i passes through the guides, tnicreas: ing the tghtening action Another aterative 1 to se “Anger tensioning, ~ ‘Test the stich om a serap of fabric. For the flatest flatlocking, guide the fabric to ihe left of the blade, so that the stitches hhang over the edge slightly. (Doing this allows space for the fabric under the stitch and prevents the problem of accidentally cutting the fabric if you are flatlocking a fold.) + Grasp the fabric on both sides of the stitches and gently pull to flaten. Guide adricto the lett of blads, Flatlock Troubleshooting Problem: The stiching doesnt pall con pletely fat _- Doesnt pul iat Solution: ‘Loosen the needle tension, « ifyou've loosened tas much as possi ble, remove the needle thread from the tensiondisk or dia ‘© If your serger has deop-in tension dials, | cover the tension slot with a piece of trans | parent tape. Or, if your machine has knob type dials, do not engage the thread in the dal,+) “ladder” stitch. Use topstitching thread in | the needle. To accommodate the thicker thread, also change to a largerssize needle For the upper and lower loopers, use serge thread. Serge with wrong sides together so that the ladder sitch will appear on the top [ i of the fabric * When flatlocking, allow the stitches to — hang over the edge slightly Decorative Possibili Flatlocking Fun! By simply changing the thread types and colors combined in the sitch, Matlock looks can be created + “Framed” loops. Use contrsting colored threads in the needle and lower ies— <== any different looper to frame the upper-loop Lower I~ looper thread + “Floating” loops. Use “invisible monofilament thread in the needle and lower looper. For the upper looper, use decorative thr ck the upper-looper thread pat on top of the fabric Flatlocked “Topstitching” I. oper Fatlocked “topstitching” adds int will appear to fl ‘ ing (PORES exture and colo o any fabric. I's easiest to Matiock evenly and uniformly wien the fabric is flat, before the project is seamed. eres how 1. Adjust your serger for a flatlock stitch Monofilament» Use decorative thread in the upper Bonen Use decorative thread in the upper needle and looper of a 3-thre: stitch and the looper of lowerlooper 3 2thread stitch * Use matching all-purpose, serger, or I i clea monofilament thread inthe nee SERGING, THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER 6SERGING THE ULTIMATE TIME-SAVER ! Notions ] Gastar ‘a very fine line on fabric 1s preferred by quilt. aE ES ee Se i sharp by filing with an eS | @ tmesaving | | 66 (For 3:thread Matlocki of the same threads in the lower looper.) 2, Cut out the pattem, Mark the fabric with a linear design, using a washable marking pen, chalk wheel, ortailo’s chalk 3.To “topstitch” fabric with fatlocking, + Fold wrong sides together lines marked on the fabric + Disengage the blades, if possible. + Place the fabric underneath the presse 1 just to the let of stitehes will hang foot, positioning the fi the blade *mouth,” (Tt off the edge slightly.) lock the fold * Gently pull the fabric fla 4. Continue flatlocking along all the marked lines. From Ribbon to Fabric- Flatlock Your Own Create your own fabric by fatlocking ribbons and/or leee together into caching piece of fabric art 1. Adjust your serger for a flatlock stitch, Try floating-loop flatlocking effect ran * Optional: Use decorative thread! in the looper of a 2-thread stitch or in the upper looper of a 3-thread stitch, + Lise matching all-purpose, serger, or lear monofilament thread in the needle, (For 3thread flatlockin, of the also use same threads in the lower looper.) 2, To flatlock the ribbons and/or lace ether Place the ribbons with wiong sides ether Fight sda | ot etoen+ Dsengage the blades, if possible. * Place the ribbons under the presser foot, uiding them just to the left of the bade ‘mouth. * Gently pull the ribbons fla 3. Continue Matlocking the risbon arcl/or lace together until the fabric is large enough for your project or patter piece. TH Twice-Stitched Seam— Straight Stitching + Flatlocking EE J cevn seam? The twice stitched seam is not ‘only decorative, but stronger than the seam that is only fatlocked. For a creative combi- nation, use flatocked seams with color Blocking (see photo a righ. 1. Sirightstich the 96" seam an your «conventional sewing machine # ress the seam flat and then open: This tep pressing technique forms a neat fold along the seam, making the seam easier to fatlock 2, To flatiock the siraightsttched sé # Fold along the s Ibgether. # Adjus the serger for flatlocking, using a decorative thread in the looper of 2 2thread ‘orthe upper looper of ¢ 3hread. + Place the seam under the serger presser foot, guiding the fold just to the left of the Blade “mouth.” * Gently pull the seam flat Press the ry seam f necessNote from Nancy Yau find a wide range in the price and quality of ‘nits at fabric stores. The bnargain-priced knits are tbe ‘nos! empting o buy But ‘remember, atbough i takes ‘Be same amount of tie 0 seu quality fabric a does bargain fabric, the frst- quali fabrics usual last longer. My adeleo—by the ‘est quality you con offre nthe log run, i ecomems- eal as wel as iesaing Kriti THEY DIFFERENT? Interlocks Knit fabrics are created by interlocking loops of yam. Interlock knits are con- structed with 2 loops of yamn (1 loop knit from the back and 1 from the front of the fabric) and are classed as double-kaitfab- tics. Like other double knits, interlock looks the same on the right and wrong sides. (Don't be confused by the term “double knit.” During the 1970s, it was synonymous with the stable, plastic-like, 100%-polyester fabric) Today's interlock double-knit fabrics, ‘made of cotton- or cotton-anckpolyester yams, are lightweight, drapable, comfortably soft, and stretchable For many sewers, the most desirable interlock is 100% cotion, Although 160% cotton interlock can be more expensive and may shrink more than cotton/polyester blends, itis les clingy and less prone to pilling, On the other hand, interiock blends Cf 50% cotton/50% polyester are more affordable, shrink less, and are sold in wider assomiment of colors than the alk cotton variety Pretreating Interlocks Pretceat washable interlocks by laundering. the fabric 2s you will the finished garment. For best results, pretreat any 100%-cotton interlock by washing and crying it twice ‘This double washing eliminates any residual shrinkage and also compacts the yarns, adding body to the finished garment Jersey A jersey isa single-knit fabric, formed from 1 set of yam loops-smooth on the right side, with horizontal loops running crosswise on the wrong side. Because the yarn loops are often very fine, it may be difficult o tell the difference between the 2 sides. To determine the right side of a jersey knit, hold a cut edge-ether cross-grain or selvage-and pull to stretch the edge. A jersey will always roll to the right side rN HOOK TSIOIeT TYPOS Look for jersey fabrics in a variety of fibers, such as acrylic, wool, cotton, ot bblends. The wool and wooklike (acrylic) jerseys have the greatest body and least tendency to roll er curt, Cortons and cot- rar” polyester-blend jerseys are lighter in weight, they are well suited to vse in T- shirts and children's wear but are generally too limp for use in dresses or skrss, Blends of cotton and Lycra (usualy 108 c0 15% Lycra) are perfect for strech pants and active wear,Pretreating Jerseys under the fabric as you will handle finished garment. If the fabric is 80% wpto 10% seamed by a dey cleaner. Steaming resizinks the fabric and removes su S708 Your Knit cate the amount of stretch. to tes the stetch of the fabric at the (Some pattems state the amount of si ‘sretch” or "50% stretch.") serch of a knit fabric: fabric (the cross-grain) to prevent the test fart stretches: 10" stretches 10 12! 10) stretches to 15' = 50%6 stretch Original et mare coton, look for possible shrinkage of treated, the center fold line may rema Notall knits stretch the same amount. The fiber content and type of knit construction nok fora stretch gauge on the back of nur pattern envelope. This gives you a way store ‘equted by the pattern, such 2s “2505 To quickly determine the amount of p+ £9 Stretch Laying Out To pretreat any washable jersey, machine- and Cutting Knits the or Even after your knit fabric has been pre- in permanently set, resulting in @ line that is ‘When you are using wool jersey, have it too conspicuous. Refold the fabric to cut ‘round this line, For jerseys and other flat face’ knits, bring the selvage edges to the original fold line, creating 2 new fold lines, 1 on ‘each side. For inteclocks, which are usually knit in a tube, roll the tube so that the permanent fold lines do not lie at the edges Determining the —siwerre Stretch Percentage of etch, Also remember that the one-way forma: 1. Fold under 3" along the cut edge of the tion of the interlocking loops ereates a cut difference in shading on knit fabrics similar ‘eg: from stretching excessively during the 0 the nap found on velvet or corluroy Because of this one-way shading, you will 2, Neasure 10 of the fabric and see how need 10 use the “one-way” layout when you are positioning and cutting your garment = 25% seretch, pieves. Check the pattern envelope to make sure you buy the proper amount of fabric 50% + Streteh —_______, 25% Stretch brie width ‘Note from Nancy ‘The right and wrong sides af sntelock knits ioe the same and car be wed iter: changoably, unless you're using an interlock print, of‘SUPER-QUICK KNITS @ Timesaving ‘Notions fyi are serging ‘a srech josey or ‘a coon knit wtih {ner Lrecommendl using @ bread overoc sth uit Jexturized nylon thread for all 3 treads, Stretch jeney can siretc up to 80% or more (tbs, 10" can stretch o 189, and it realy needs siretchable seam. 3.tbread ovelac seam us- ing Woolly Np or Metrftck Stretch Nylon ‘bread isthe mod flewble serger sich avaiable Note from Nancy Inthe pas: when using a dowble needle, ! would guide’ 1 thread tothe let of he ten- sion dish an the ctber thread tobe right of the disk, At times my double newle stitching wasn't bak anced. Afier experimenting tv threading bat ioread trough the same tension is, I fund the tore sions were mare balanced! rom ncw on, take tis sm ple an when using a double needle faster approach 72 THE - MCS. SIMPLE-TO- SEW KNIT SEAMS Machine- Stitched Seams I you sew without a serger, don’ despair. Your conventional zigzag machine has several stitches that can be used as func tional, fashionable seaming altematives. Traditional Knit Seams For hest results when you sew with knits, always use Stretch, Yellow Band, or ball point needles. If you have worked with knit fabrics before, you may have noticed tiny holes that form along the seam line or ‘opstitching line, The holes are caused by the acute points of ‘shamp” sewing machine needles, which pierce the yam fibers. The Stretch, Yellow Band, or ballpoint needles have rounded points that slip between the fine knit loops and do not cause holes, provide additional strech in the s narrow zigzag stitch along the seam line. 2. Using a medium-vidth, mediam-length stitch, zigzag the seam allowances together, close to the seam line 3, Trim away the excess seam allowance close to the zigzag stitches. im, Use a Double-Needle Seams and Hems Another way 10 add stretch to seams on kunt fabric isto stitch with a double needle The 2 top threads pass through the twin needles, creating 2 straight lines of stitching oon the top of the fabric, while the bobbin thread zigeags back and forth between the needle threads. Although the double-needle stitch is usually used for hemming and decorative topstitching, it also builds lexi ity into knit seams, To stitch a double-needle sea: 1. Use 1 spool of thread on each of the spool pins on top of the machine IF your sewing machine has only 1 spoo! pin, wind extra bobbins and stack the bobbins on yhe spo! pirrinstead of usinga spool! of thread. ‘Following the threading insteuctions for your machine, guide both threads as 1 throug the tension disk and thread guides. At the needle area, separate'the threads and thread each needle with 1 thread.2.To ensure an accurate %" seam, change the needle position so that the left needle ines up with the center of the presser foot. Ifthe needle position cannot be changed, aljas the Y" seam guideline so that the let reedie stitches along the 9" seam line, 3.Slitch the entire garment using a 2-mm, Samm, of 4-mm double needle 4, Press the seams to I side, with the _tigagging down, Because of the formation ofthe sitches, the seams will automatically lap wih the double stiching on top. To stich a double-needle hem, press inder the hem allowance. Stitch along the ‘hem elge, from the right side, with the double needle as ‘Topstitched Seam » To create a designerstyle topstizched oa: : 1. Staightstict a normal 54" seam, using single needle. Press (or finger-press) the sem open. stich 34" from each side of the seam line, Using a medium-length straight stitch (10 to 12 siitches per inch) or a medium-wi medium-length zigzag stitch, ‘Topstitched Hem ‘To create a fast and easy topsttched hem, press under the hem allowance. Topstiteh from the right side, using either a straight or Zigzag, stich Topstitched Facingless Edges Consider eliminating the neckline and armhole facings when you are sewing with knit fabrics. This ready-to-wear technique of ‘uming and topstitching speeds up construc- tion, cuts down on facing bulk, and finishes ceadges beautifully. Because knit fabries dont ravel, there is n0 need to finish the raw cedges on the wrong side, ‘To create a topsttched edge 1. Eliminate the facing piece(s). Press under the seam allowances. 2, Straightsttch or zigzag 42" from the fabric ald. Youre finished! 2. On the right side of the garment, top--—— SUPER-QUICK KNITS Note from Nancy Because the wrong side of he hem allowance shows on the right sie of the garment lecorativey senged bems tersible interlock kts. So when jou are using jersey ‘orany other kit with dept nile right and wrong sides, bom treatraent Serged Seams and stitches the shirts, s the se pieces together while overlocking th Now, with garments literally in minuies, without sact: ficing construction rge Seams on knit fabrics, use & 3+ oF ead overlock stitch adjusted for balanced tension, (Refer to Chapter 3 for more details on serging,) Unless color matching is critical, use all-purpose serger thread in the needle and both loopers, Check seady tion ideas. wade clothing for consiruc- fen the most expensive lines of Jesigner clothin -ature topstitehed seams, ls that add and stability while reducing pressing time and other de m line accents Serge It Decoratively Try using decorative threads in the looperis) and then purposely exposing the seam, (Add a few minutes to your sewing ime for testing the decorative ser nique on scraps of your fabric.) Decoratively Serged Seams To make a decoratively serged seam 1. Serge, with wrong sides together, alon; the %" seam line, (The blades will rim the excess seam allowance while serging.) 2. Use a meclum-to-wide stitch width, shoa stitch length, and decorate thread inthe upper looper. Try using Woolly Nylon or Metroflock (both texturized nylon threads) or Decor 6 @ rayon topstitching thread) inthe upper looper. (For more decorative thread possibilities, see Chapier 3.) # Serge the seam so tnt the decorative senging will show + Finger-press the seam to 1 side ¢ Using a conventional sewing machine, ; Eugestitch the seem, Decoratively Serged Hem If you have decoratively serged the seams, consider unifying the garments design ele- ments by decoratively serging the hem. To make a decoratively,serged hem 1. Use a medium-to-wvide stitch width, shot stitch length, and decorative thread in the upper looper. With the wrong side of the the hem.-(You will be serging of fabric) Allow the serger blades to trim the single layer edge of the hem slightly; a more uniform stitch can be prochaced ia this way 2. Press the hem to the right side, exposing ment facing up, serge along the edge o . tect epg. Wi comet sewing machine, edgestitch along the serged needle line 10 comp the hem.SUPER-QUICK KNITS: . Z | QUICK-KNIT SEWING BASICS INTO TIME UNITS Stabilize Stress Areas To stabilize shirts and tops: * Fuse a %4'-wide strip of interfacing, cut —f0o Abin ais ‘on the lengthwise grain, to the shoulder ‘With fusible interfacing, it takes only a ‘seams on the front garment pieces only. minutes to stabilize your knit garment ‘nae that easily sag or stretch out of interfacing ~ To sabilize pants: * Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the fbr in the knce area, from 4" above 10 4° Note from Nancy Special Zipper 10 save tine later, cuts a ‘ eral 44" 0 1'-wide Easy Application for Knits sus sw est your Meee 20 Minutes ——_ snoentidenarse s ‘grain and others on the bias. _# Fuse a %'-vide bias strip to the wrong In the past, I found that zippers in knit Sve of the pocket, even with the cut edge, ~ garments tended to ripple and buckle, so 1 _b prevent siretching, avoided them altogether. But now, with the help of fusible-tricot interfacing (such as Easy Knit) and a paper-backed fusible web (uch as Wonder-Under), putting a zipper in aa knit jumpsuit or jumper is a simple 20- init pres. Purchase any 8 polyeteralpperthn ‘ is 1" to 2" longer than the opening, The extra length allows you to slide the zipper & tab away from the presser foot and avoid crooked stitching, (The excess length will be trimmed off in Step 8.) To insert the zipper: 1. Cut 2 (14 "wide) strips of fusible-tricot knit on the lengthwise grain and fuse them -‘SUPER-QUICK KNITS Timesaving Notions Sewers Fact Tape isa torrie {ape t use wien topstitching zippers ike smansparent ope, itis" tne, yo mucb safer ‘and easier band. Use t also for altering pater. ‘The tape can eve be repsi- oed witbout wearing the tssuepaer 76 to the wrong side of the zipper area. This lightweight interfacing will siabilize the zipper area, preventing the knit fabric from rippling 2s the zipper is inserted 2, Machine-baste the zipper opening dosed. Press the seam open. 3. Cut 2 (V2"-wide) strips of paper-backed fusible web. Fuse the strips to the terong side of the seam allowances. Peel off the paper backing. Fuse the seam allowances to the wrong side of the garment pieves by pressing the seam open again. 4, Cut 2 more //"-wide strips of fusible ‘web the length of the zipper tape. Fuse the strips to the right side of the zipper tape. Peel off the paper backing Fusibie web Fusibie web \ 5. Center the zipper face down over the seam, extending the extra zipper length above the fabric, Press to fuse the zipper in place 6. ‘Tum the garment right side out, Center a length of ¥2'-wide transparent tape or Sewer's Fix-it Tape over the seam line. On ‘each side of the seam line, sitch from the bottom to the top of the zipper, using the tape edge as 2 stitching guideline. 7. Remove the transparent tape, Open the basting stiches. '8. Open the zipper. Bar-tack across the top on each side of the zipper. Trim the excess zipper length even with the seam allowance.Crossover Mock Turtleneck — 20 Minutes — You've seen this clever crossover neckline in catlogs and stores everywhere-on men’s, Women’, and kich’ T-shirts and sweatshirs The crossover neckline is much easier 10 sew than you would imagine, and it pro. ‘ides anothes option for customizing basic sportswear tops, ‘To make the crossover turtleneck: 1, Purchase ribbing in a color to match or coatast with your shirt fabric. 2. Cut the ribbing 3" to 6" wide by the kengih of the ribbing pattern plus 3° for an overlap. 3 Fold the ribbing in half lengihwise, with wrong sides together. 4. Measure in 3" fiom each end along the cat edge; mark, Trim the ends at an angle, beginning at the 3” markcand tapering to the fol 5. Overlap the ribbing ends by 3°, align- ing the cut edges at the bottom. Machi bust or serge the edges together, rounding 6 Quareer-mark the ribbing and garment feckline as shown. Align the quarter mark- ings, with right sides together. Pin, centering SUPER-QUICK KNITS —— the overlapped nbbing at the center frant of the garment, 7, Serge or sew the ribbing to the neck- line, stretching the ribbing to Ft Note from Nancy To male certain tat the ceuter front of oe ribbing alu lines up wit he center front of the garment, color code the quater ‘marks. Use mult-colored ass Pad pins and choose 2 red ones to mark the ce ler fronts. The other quarter ‘marks can be any color otb- er than red When pinning the ribbing and shir togeth- % match tbe 2 red gla ‘oad pins and the other quarter mart‘SUPER-QUICK KNITS Sweatshirt V-Accent — 20 Minules— Sweatshirts encure as a sportswear main: siay. Update this comfortable classic with a simple-to-sew V-shaped accent 1. To make the sweatshirt V-aocent pat- tem (The size of the V can be varied as desired) + Fold the sweatshirt pattern in hal ‘mark the center front * Cover the top center front area with tissue or waxed pa + On the paper, mark 4¥%" down the center front line from the neckline. + Mark 2%" from the center front line 10 a point on the original pattem neckline. * Connect the 2 marked points, forming a V-shape, Trace the marked area to make a pattern, Add a ¥' seam allowance on the long side of the V tern, 2, To eutt out fabrics for the V: + Cut 1 insert of interlock or ribbing, Mark the center front with a V-clip, Also V-cip the center front of the sweatshirt + Cuta second insert from fasible-knit interfacing, such as Stacy's Easy Knit. | | 3. To sew the insert ‘ Align the right side of the insert with the fusible (resin) side of the interfacing Fusible side of intetfacing wrong side of xt fabic : Y 4 siitch 14’ seam « Serge or sew 1 side of the V, using a seam, ‘At the point, wrap the seam allowance toward the center of the V, (Wrapping makes it much easier to tum a smoot, uniform comer.)* Sitch the second straight side of the V, ‘sing a seam. ‘Wrong side of fabric z Fight side of fabric v Trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk Tum the V accent right side out. Use a Banboo Pointer and Creaser to obtain sharp comers. Finger-press the edges. 4, Plce the fusible side of the V on the fight side of the sweatshirt, matching center fron V-clips 5. Cover the V with an Applique Pressing Sheet and fuse the V to the sweatshirt Match center fron. ae 6 Fagesitch the V accent. 4. Continue following your pattern in. srictons to complete the shirt to /¢ from the sides of SUPER-QUICK KNITS: Split Collar —— 10 Mines — If you follow trendy fashions, you know that this neckline variation is all the rage Made from ribbing or interlock, the collar can be worn up for a sophisticated look or tumed down for a more casual look To make the split cola: 1. To determine the colar size: + Lengily: Overiap the pattem front and To press the Vaccen! lt, back pieces at the shoulder seams. Deter- mine he neckline creunfewce by mexsx: (alae ing along the stitching line. An easy way te patreta ne oe mee ‘ ‘pliqué Pressing Sboet and ccurately determine the collar length mea surement is to place the tape measure on its celge along the stitching line. The tape will ‘pres, Aller the fabric cols the fusible ideof the V cn be casiy pooled off the non- follow the curve more easily in this postion ds Cf patterns are cut on the fed, remember wo eh elon ate fie dlouble the neckline circumference measure-_ PMINa-sheet ment.) To the neckline circumference, add 2 seam allowances (usually ¥" total),* Width: For adults, cur the collar 10" wide, For children, cut the collar 6 wide. ‘ +— Neckline + seam allowances —» 2, For the adult sizes, mark 2/2 from the ‘cut edges. For children’s sizes, mark 112" from the cut edges, + Neckline + seam aliowanoas —> tre he 3. To sew the center back collar seam: * Fold the collar in half widthwise, with right sides together. Stitch from the cut edge to the mark. Lock the stitching; clip the threads. Repeat from the other cut edge to the other mark, + Refold the ribbing so that the marked ‘ends of the first stitchings meet. Stitch from 1 fold to the cemter; lack the stitches. Repeat from the other fold. Its important that these ssitchings come as close to the center as possible without stitching inro the center Othenvise you'll end up with a hole in the center of the split colla, + Angle-cut the comers to remove exces bulk, Tum the collar right side out and fold in half with raw edges together. Finger-press 4. Quarter-mark the collar and the neck- line edge. Serge or strightstitch the collar to the neckline, positionigg the split at the ‘center frontDouble Ribbing O Minules — Double your wardrobe versatiliy with this double ribbing. Experiment with different ‘olor combinations and widths of ribbing To prepare the ribbing. If your sh m contains a pattern add 1" to the for 1 piece of ribbing: (The extra inch piece forthe ribbing, simph ng is necessary because the neckline becomes } tghter with 2 thicknesses 6f ribbing; the extra length ads the necessary ‘give.”) 2. Cuta second piece of ribbing, either wider or narrower than the first, and same length as the first bbing pics * To determine the sécond/Abbing width: Double the finished widkh plus ¥ J (4 seam allowances, For example, a | ribbing piece measuring 6" wide will J make a 3"-wide finished trim, 3. To sew the ribbing * For 1 ribbing piece, sraighistitch each end seam, with right sides together. Finger: press the seams open. Repeat with the other ribbing piece. * Tum each ribbing piece right side out ce the long cut edges together 2 ribbings together at the cut edges, using a narrow serge or igrag stitch * With pins, quarter-mark the ribbing anc the neckline of the garment. * Align the pins and sew or serge the ribbing to the garment, using a zigzag or serged stitch wide enough to cover the previous stitching SUPER-QUICK KNITS —— Note from Nancy Hore bow figure the ribs bing size if our pater doesn’ include a patern lec fort. Ribbing gen. erally appied at a 23 ratio. So cut the ring 2% the length of toe necktine mea. surement For example. i the neckiine measures 18! AX 18 = 12"+ 3% 12h lar length, For cildren, the rato soften 3:4. Bex cause a child's bead is larg &r in proportion to tbe rest of bis body, yout ned to cut te ribbing %4 the length ofthe neclhe 81a SUPER-QUICK KNITS Ribbed Baseball Neckline — 20 Minules — Your whole family will want shirts featur ing this lapped ribbed neckline. Try using 2 different colors of rbbing. Before cutting ut the ribbing, experiment to determine which color you want to be dominant To make the baseball neckline: 1. Cut 2 ribbing pieces, using the pattern (© desermine the length. * For the crew neckline piece, cut the ribbing 4" wide. Crew neck ‘ Patter . measurement * For the lapped piece, cut a piece of ribbin than the crew neckline piece, 3" wide and 1" long 82. Lapped piece + Pattern + 2. Fold the lapped piece in half length wise, with wrong sides together. Mark 1" from each end along the cut edge, “rim the ds ata at the 1 make and tapering to the fold, angle, beginni Eold 7 3. Overlap the ends 1°, aligning the cut edges at the bottom, Straightstcch, zigzag, of serge the cut edges together, rounding off the comers. Quarter-mark the lapped piece, placing the first pin atthe center ofthe overlap. 4, Straightsttch or serge the 4" center ack seam of the crew-neckline piece, Fold he ribbing in helf lengthwise, with wrong sides together; sraightstcch, zigzag, or serge the cut edges together. Quarter-mark the crew neckline pieve, placing the fist pin at he seam. 5, Align the quarter marks and the cut edges of the ribbed pieces, with the lapped piece on top. Place the crew neckline seam directly opposite the lapped piece. Machine baste the cut Edges together. T ‘Baste cut edges together, rounding comers 6 nark the garment necklin With right sides together, align the ove lapped ribbing with the neckline edge. Place the crew neckline seant'at the center buck and the ceyter ofthe lapped piece atthe center front, Straightstich or serge the neckline seam through all layers,Youll lke the Johnny collars convertibil- iy, can be wern turned down (over the sting), sanding up, or pinned to 1 side, In thistechnique, the collar is added after the ftbing has been applied. f you can't find jus the right purchased collar, here's how to sake your own. To make the Johnny collar: 1. To detemnine the collar size: * Measure around the seam line where the nbbing has been attached. ay ite ¢ The collar length is % the length of the ment neckline measyzement plus 4"— for2 (4) seam allowances. If the neckline measurement is 18°, the collar length is 14 + An average finished collar width is 4" Double this finished width and add Ys"—for 2(14) seam allowances, ‘The ribbing size in this example would be 812° 14", 2, Cut the collar from the ribbing, —— 30 Minutes — in allowances 3, Fold the collar in half lengthwise, with right sides together; straightstitch each end using the 4" sea 4, Turn the collar right side out, Finger press if necessary, but do not press with an. 5. Overlap the collar center front edges by 2", Machine-baste or zigzag to secure the overlap, “a Q if _ 6. Quarter-mark the collar and neckline edges. 7. Match the center front and back of garment and coll pin 8. Machine-stitch the collar to the neck- line, using the original ribbing seam line as 4 guide for stitching Note from Nancy {se your tape measure as a calculator! To determine ¥ Of 18% fold tbe end ofthe ape measure tothe 18" ‘mark. Then fold a second time. The measurentent on the ld 6134 —Vaof 18% Adit 2" CA" 00 each side forseam allowances 83 SUPER-QUICK KNITS ——+Stitch & Button: Stretch Up Draweord Basic Elastics Non-roll elastics are made by knitting clastic threads together. Be ney retain their shape when stretched, non-roll elastics are more suitable for most applications than braided elastics, Non-roll elastics are gener. ally %4" to 2! wide and can be used in cas ings, or sewn ar senged directly to the fabric. Braided elastic generally costs less than non-roll elastic, but it narrows when it is strefelied, Because it chan ges shape, you should-use this elastic only in a casing Specialty Elastics Stitch & Stretch, 1 woven polyester band with rows of spandex elastic cording, is 1 of the newest specialty elastics. It is stitched flat to the fabric along the woven-in blue lines (no need to stretch the elastic as you sew), and then the spandex cords are pulled to gather the fabric to the corr available in 1 and 244" widths Button-Up Elastic is a %"-wide polyester- and-rubber elastic with woven buttonhole of the band. The size. This sections in the « Cycling Lingerie Stretch Lace buttonhole button is sew ngs are spaced 1" apart. A inside the casing for easy waistline adjusiments, Drawcord Elastic has a drawcord knited into the 1/-wide band that will extend to twice is length, allowing ample cord for tying insidé or outside the waistband Sport Elastic, an elastic used in ready wear sportswear, can he stitched directly to the fabric. The 4 u guides for stitching Clear Elastic isa transparent sp durable 100 3 times its original length, Its lightweight snc resiss deterioration by swimming pool raided rows provide of ches to polyurethane that st chlorine, yet is darable enough to be Stitched through (or even nicked by serger blades) widhout losing its elasticity Cycling Blastic is ideal for use with Lyen, Three rows of exposed spanlex threads grip the skin, keeping garments from “riding up” Lingerig Elastic is «-so decorative picot edge, available in "and 42! widths. Another soft elas. elastic with a often used ‘on expensive ready-made lingerie, is Stretch Lace.Non-roll and ny we Elastic Casing or 1° non-roll results. The key to this sv or serge the side seams of the Id and press a 14" casing. (This is nmon width allowed for casings on ) Zigzag or verge the raw edge. 3. Edgestitch 14" from the fold, last 2" shorter than the wais.- 4, Cut th 7. Use a zipper foot with the needle Fae measurement positioned atthe right side ofthe foot. With 5, But the elasitc ends together. Place a the edige of the foot next to en fabric under the smoothing the fabrie so th Zigzag the elastic ends to the front of the foot. Allow the f BP fbic Thm away the excess fabric, behind the foot. The elastic will be sandwiched betwee 2 rows of siraight stitching, producing a professional look, clastic inside the casing, to fitand periodically P) pinning it in place ee‘ELASTICS FAST & FUN TOSEW. 3, Stitch the center seams and 1 side seam, leaving the remaining side seam Unstitehed, 4, Using a 6" seam on your conventional machine, sith the remaining side se from the lower edge of the garment tothe casing fold line, Do not serge. (The wider pressed-open seam allowance of the com ventional sitch will make it exsiert0 insert the elasic.) : E . 5. From the casing fold line, lve a 1" ‘opening in the seam by advancing the fabric through the sewing machine, Sitch the final Wt of the seam to close the ends of the casing, 6, Trim the seam allowances within the casing area 10 4% 7. Puse all the si ThreeRow = guteeenre tice” Elastic Casing ‘Wonder-Under. This will prevent the seam ae WAH " it’s being inserted in the casing. In this asing width), 4" ong (double the Add interestto a waistine by using mui ple rows of elastic. This is a functional. Fusible web , fashionable waistline treatment that is A slightly wider than the casing found of most patterns ‘ To make the casing 1. Cut 3 strips of *s"-wide elastic, each 2 shorter than the waistline 2. Check the casing with allowed on the | pattem and extend the pattem a to provide 2 for the casing Cut out the neasurement seessary 8. Fold the fabric t6 the wrong side of the garment along the casing fold line; press. Zigzag or serge the raw exe 9, Start "from the cas fold and struighistich 3 10%,10. insert 1 strip of elastic through each ‘ow of the casing with a bodkin, safety pin, reastic glide. (Before inserting the elastic, pin | end to the fabric to keep it from being pilled ino the casing 11, Butt the elastic ends together. Place a scrap of tightly woven fabric under the elisic Zigaag the elastic ends to the fabri. Tim away the excess fabric 12. Stretch the waistline to evenly dis- abut the fabric 1, Sitch inzhe-citch (sew fiom the right Side nto the seam line) along seam of the casing, This stitching will keep ihe elastic evenly distributed and prevent it fron tvising Action Wear Waistband Examine a piece of ready-made action year and you'l find this durable covered aitband, Suited to both knit and woven fabrics, 35710 produce. Just use some non-roll asic and a litle sewing know-how to tify the waisband pattem in any pair of ch side is waistband is fashionable and pitts or shorts 1, Mark a new cutting line on the patter, ig fold line. CYou mus! remove the excess casing because the elastic will be inserted inside 2, Cut a separate waist as long as the garment waistline ment plus 1’, With right sides together, sew the ends of the waistband together, forming acirde 4 | * Pattern measurement + /" = 3, With right sides together, stitch the waistband to the top of the assembled garment, using a 14sTo prevent the welsthand from shifting ring te fe ‘il Stitching, base trove the elastic and waistband at ‘ich uuarten mis befobe itching: (This belps beep ‘the gathers the band per- Polly vertical )-Lengtiven the ‘sich and leave long thread tails at each enclof the bas ‘ng’so thatthe can: be eas 1y removed later. “Available i: boib Sean a" ‘witb, Seams Great isa bhas-cut 100% nylon tricot bina tradi tionally sec 10 clecn finish seam allowances Scots ‘soft and extromeiy ight eigbk, ieades-viewally na ‘ulhe—sometbing that's weak Ip impotent na cas Ue tbe PA wits Vo" ‘Or Fa elastic: se tb6 76" ‘wht withery narrows — 4, Cuta length of 1"-wide non-roll elastic, 2" shorter than the waistline measurement. But the elastic ends together. Place a serap of tightly woven fabric under the elastic and zigzag the elastic ends to the fabric, Trim away the excess fabric. 5. Quarter-mark the elastic and the waist- band. With the waistband stil against the garment, pin the elastic to the waistband seam allowance, matching the quarter marks, aligning the lower edge of the elastic with the seam line joining the garment and ‘waistband, and allowing the elastic 10 ex- tend above the garment. Baste in place. 6. Zigzag the elastic to the ¥" seam l- lowance, stretching the elastic as necessary to match the quarter marks. 7. Wrap the waistband over the elastic to the wrong side of the garment, Pin, 8. Working from the right side of the ‘garment and stretching the elastic as you stitch, straightsttch the lower edge of the waistband '4" above the waistline seam. Don't sitch through the elastic, Straightstiteh the upper edge of the waistband in the same 9. Remove the basting stitches. Seams Great Elastic Casing — 10 Miinules — ‘This elastic insertion technique uses tracitional non-roll or braided elastio—but in a very lightweight casing. Often, when a pattern includes an elastic casing at the waistline, the guide sheet will suggest using strips of bias-cut fabric or bias tape to form the casing, This extra layer of bias fabric ‘may result in a bulky, uncomfortable waist line, Here's a quick, lightweight way 10 achieve the sume elasticized waistline 1. Mark the placement line for the elastic on the wrong side of the garment, using a washable marking pen, marking pencil, or chalk. 2, Fold under 4" on 1 end of a matching 6 Coordinating color of Seams Great. Align the fold at 1 of the garment’s side seams, 3, Stitch 1 edge of the Seams Great round the waistline, 4" to 14" from the edge, When you come to the end of the Seams Great, turn under Y" and butt it against the other turned-under end of the casing, 4.7Tuck the elastic undemeath the Seams Great casing. (Remember, the elastic must be narrower than the casing.) Secure 1 end Of the elastic to the casing by bar tacking with 2 oF 3 stitches, Bartack in-the-ditch of the side seam, if possible, fo conceal the stitching, 5. To sttchythe remainifig edge of the casing + Remove the general-purpose presser foot and replace it with a zipper foot. Adjust the needle position so that the needle is as clase as possible to the right edge of the Zipper foot* Postion the zipper foot next to the 6. Try on the garment and pull the elastic wg the other edge of the to fit. Barack to secure the elastic and ithe elastic, Do nct —_close the opening. Cut away the excess elasticQuick Elastic Casing for Sleeves For a simple elastic treatment on cuffs and sleeves for chilcren’s wear, zigzag over a casing. Create this casing before sewing the underarm seam of the sleeve. To create the quick casing: 1, Cuta length of 'a"- or Y"-wide elastic toa comfortable measurement for the child's wrist or arm. (Be sure to add 14" to the measured length for seam allowances.) 2, Place the elastic on the wrong side of the sleeve along the gathesing line. Pin at 3. Bartack the elastic to the seam al- Jowance at 1 end, 4. Set the sewing machine at 2 medium stitch length and a rigzag stitch wider than the elastic, 5. Stretch the elastic across the sleeve, holding the fabric'taut both in front and behind the presser foot. Zigzag aver the elastic, making sure not 10 catch the elastic in the stitching 6, Bartack the other end of the elastic to the fabric. 7. Sew the sleeve seam t's that fest andSPECIALTY lastics Stitch & Stretch Sitch & Sireich is 1 of the newest elastics Itis stitched to the flat garment and then stretched. This woven polyester band has rows of spandex elastic threaded through it. Non-elastic blue lines running the length of the band provide convenient stitching guides. To apply the elastic: 1 Stitch the center seams and 1 of the garments side seams, (Remember: This asic is stitched to the fat fabric 2, Press the casing to the wrong side of the garment, Trim the casing to 12 3. Cut the Stitch & Stretch elastic the same length as the unfinished waistline. (Stitch & Siretch is the exception to the rule of cutting clastic smaller than the finished waistline.) 4, To position the el «Fold under 7 on 1 end of the Stitch & waistband to its finished size.) Pin the Stitch Siretch, Phice the elastic on the wrong side & Saretch in place. of the garment, with the upper edge of the astic % fromthe fold at the top of the waistband. * Zigzag the folded end of the elastic to the garment to secure the elastic cores. 5. Sew the Stitch & Stretch to the garment along each ofthe bive sitching lines + On the opposite end of the Stitch & Stretch, fold under only the woven fabric, tet the elastic cords. (The cords must be free so that they can be pulled to gather the6. Pull the elastic cords until the waist- band is the desired finished size. Evenly disiribute the gathers. Then secure the cords at the end of the Stith & Siretch by zigzag. gir from the cut edge. For greater security, add a second line of zigzag stitch- ing %4" from the edge. Trim away the excess Doritthrow way theses Cons elastic cords tbat were rimmed afer gatbering a veaisthand, se Bren to ale uf rshores: Zigzag over be cords cr ate a casing, as déscussed the Quick Baste Casing for Sees section, 1B 24" t0 Stitch the remaining side seam, Stitch & Stretch: An Enclosed Technique The on is suited to most garm ic exposed Stitch & Streich appli- nts. But there may be times when you prefer to enclose the elastic, rather than expasing it. Before cutting out the garment, check the pattern to be sure that the casing on the pattern is slightly wider than the elastic. This 4, Fold the casing to cover the elastic. Pin is especially important when you are using the casing in place from the right side of the =) the 2:4"-wide Stitch & Stretch, garment. 1, Stitch the center seams and 1 of the garment's side sears. 2, Press the casing to the wrong side to establish the fold line, Do nottrim away any of the casing; the easing must be wide enough t0 cover the elastic 3. To apply the Stitch & Siretch to the 3, garment: * Gut the Stitch & Stretch the same length 5, Stitch the casing ciosed from the right as the casing. side ofthe garment, sewing along the upper * Position te clastic on the wrong sie of row of the original stiching, Streich the the garment, with the edge of the elastic fabric to fit as you stitch. The elastic will be along the casing fold line. (The elastic completely encased. Sen should be positioned on the garment sec tion, not on the casing Siitch the elastic to the garment, using Steps 4 in the basic Stitch & Stretch 6. Stitch the remaining side seam of the garment }Button-Up Elastic— It’s Adjustable waistline with breathing room? You can it with this elastic with buttonholes! ‘The sewing is simple; just add a button to the inside of the casing. Use it in clothing for growing children, for moms-to-be, or for anyone with a changing waistline. 1, Cut the elastic longer than needed for the waistline, especially when making nity wear 2, Stitch the garment’s center seams and 1 side seam, leaving the remaining side seam ‘open to insert the elastic: © On the final side seam, use your con- ventional machine andl %' seam to stitch from the lower edge to the casing fold line. A the fold line, backstitch or sitch in place to reinforce the seam, « From the casing fold line, Jeave a 1" ‘opening in the seam by advancing the fat through the sewing machine. Stitch the final Wf the seam to close the ends of the wing 3. Trim the seam allowance to %" within the casing area, Fuse this section of the seam to the garment with narrow str fusble web, 4, Fold the casing to the wrong side of the arment along the fold line. Press. 5. Unfold the casing, Mark the button placement on the inside of the casing, next tp the casing opening. Stitching through the ‘casing layer only, attach a button that will fit through the butionhole openings in the lastc. 6. Refold the casing to the wrong side of the garment, Stitch the casing, sewing com pletely around the lower ed@€. 7. Secure 1 end of the elastic to the seam opening by stitching in-the-ditch. Insert the elastic through the casing, using a bodkin or elastic glide 8, Pull the elastic to the desired size. Secure the free end of the elastic to the ‘gurment by buttoning it over the bution 9. Conceal the remaining end of the clastic by tucking it into the unstitched ‘opening. When more room (or less) is seeded, just rebutton! ‘ELASTICS FAST & FUN TO SEW. Wi sens ei the casi 1h cbc Loft seers Tore ws pening af bs sets peat lk Frompressig ease sri fb bach Ab eo st ical 2m fis recital we ei ng standard Sen; borin th a oa loaner Dake ecslr ta wert at:ELASTICS FAST & FUN 10 SEW Drawcord Elastic —— 20 Minutes — Make your next pair of jogging pants or shorts with Drawcord Elastic, a 14'-wide elastic with a drawcord knitted into the middle, This specialty e for the draw- elastic has active wear is extremely flexibl cord can be tightened afier the been applied. This application takes just @ few extra minutes to complete because you must make 2 small buttonholes to accommo: Nets from Nang ce the me rd . Sew the side garment seams. It’ essential to keep the ends 2. Cut the elastic 2" shorter than the waist ‘Oftbe dracon owt of psenstremmert. LESTE 3. At each end of the elastic, cut about Ys" Gaught in We igen See oF the threads that cover the drawcord, ‘ng. Otboreise, you will not beable wo pul te drawcord traagh te east @) Timesaving Notions Te provide al ‘tonal Support sche sttcng thee butionboles, place a pce of Shcb-N-Tar stab tier andes faba fre mmabiig te bullonboles: es ‘move te sablizer afer te ‘butionbole ts completed The Stabile peers he bu tondoles from sinking into. tbe feb 4, Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1 the cords free. Zig sic togetier several times, nh 5. To determine the placement of the buttonh les for the drawcord + For a drawcord hidden on the inside of the garment, stitch I v on each sie ofthe center front seam, wit the top of the battonholes 2" from the top edge of the waistband. When the casing is ical Yo" buttonhole folded to the inside, these buttonholes wil be on the inside of the ga For an exposed drawcord (as shown in photo), begin stitching the top of the buttonholes 114" from the top edge of the waistband, These buttonholes will remain on the outside of the garment when 1 is folded to the inside* Cut the buttonholes open. 6, Quarter-mark both the elastic and the sgament waisthand; pin the elastic to the fgament at each mark. If the drawcord will be hidden on the inside of the garment, ace the right side of the elastic against ‘wrong side of the garment. Ifthe drawcord will be exposed, place the wrong side of the elastic to the wrong side of the garment. 7. Serge ot zigzag the elastic to the top edge of the waistband, stretching the elastic a8 you sew. 8, Fold the elastic and waistband to the ‘wrong side of the garment. (Check 10 be e waistband fabric is securely wrapped around the elastic.) 9. Baste through the elastic and the gar- ment at each quarter mark to hold the casing and elastic in postion for the fina ching 10, Thread the draweords through the battonholes. 1. Straightstitch or zigzag around the entice waistband along the lower edge of the ing, stretching the elastic to fit, Remove the basting stitches. 12. Pull up the cords to gather the waist band and knot each end. Tie cords into 2 bow. Voll! A ready-made touch! Sew-Through Sport Elastic —— 20 Minutes — {In 20 minutes or Jess, you can duplicate the lock of topstitched elastic used on ready-to-wear garments by using S ‘Through Sport Elastic. This 1'4"- or wide elastic has 4 unbraided rows that serve 28 guidelines when stitching the elastic to the garment. Most other elastics will stret ‘out of shape when topstitched to the waist- line, because the sewing machine needle cuts the rubberized, stretchable threads Sew-Through Sport Elastic, the rubberized threads are left out of the unbraided rows, preventing the pesky problem with stitching.ELASTICS: FAST & FUN TO SEW. Shoe te elas: top stiched along: rows: the ‘lf te fare Suto the elastic causes tbe waist: ine ta expand sight. THs IS iby te elastic i xa 3t 5° shorter than the watsine neasorentent as opposed to te customary 2 Note from Nancy Cua te elastic spied to tbe projck at each ana tor make Becaube the St ‘Torogl Sport Haste ia: several inches swat tat ost Sher elastics yo must siete nore than ose lasts to make it ite ceaisindl i thivense, te ‘machine sicbing bold the atic mono secarely and econ tha ins, 98 1. Stitch the side seams of the garment 10 form the waistband, Press the casing to the ‘wrong side, forming a fold line, andl trim the waistband casing to 2. Fuse the ¥3" casing to the garment fabric with a narrow strip of fusible we (this stabilizes the waistband and prevents it from stretching out of shape.) 3, Cut the elastic 3° t0 5' shorter han your ‘waistline measurement. (To decide whether ‘you should cut the elastic 3" or 5, take a few seconds to pin the elastic into a circle at the 3° and 5" measurements, Check to see ‘which measurement fits most comfortably over your hipline.) 4, Butt the elastic ends together. Place 2 rap of tightly woven fabric under the elastic ends. Zigzag the elastic ends to the fabric, Trim away the excess fabric. 45, Quarter-mark the elastic and the waist band. Pin the elastic to the waistband, matching pins; place the seam in the at the center back of the garment. Place the top edge of the elastic 14" to 9" from the casing fold. 6. Slitch in-the-ditch at all seams to secure the elastic. Ifthe garment seams don't line up with the quarter marks, machine-baste the elastic to the garment atthe quarter marks and remove the basting stitches later. sic 7. Stitch the elastic from the wrong side along the unbraided rows, stretching the elastic 10 fit the waistband, For best results, itch the rows in this sequence: top row bottom row, and then the 2 middle rows, Clear Elastic Clear Btastic, a 100% polyurethane elastic that is new on the market, is designed specifically to be used in aerobic wear and swimvvear. It stretches to 3 times its original Jength and has 3 unique features. Fist, i's 100% recoverable! Once stretched, it wil retum to its original length and width, Second) itis not affected by chlorine, mak- ing Clear Elastc perfect for swimwear. And third, this elastic will not fray or ravel if nicked by the serger blade—a remarkable ure! Clear Elastic is available in a variety of widths, including ¥', 4", Ye, and 92. Swimwear Elastic Guidelines Refer to your pattern directions, ot use these general guidelines for measuring the istic *-Leg opening: For adult sizes, aut the elastic 2" shorter than the pattern measure- ment for the leg opening, For children’s sizes, cut the elastic 1" shorter than the leg, opening ‘© Waistline: Cut the elastic 4° to 6" shorter than a comfonable waistine measurement * Armhole: Cut the elastic the same size as the ambtole pattern measurement. ‘* Neckline: Cut the elastic the same size as the neckline pattem measurement.Leg Opening Sewing Guidelines 1, To join the front and back of the swim- suit, stitch the crotch seam, the leg front, remaining elastic inh mark with a pin. Divide the back leg op Jing inbalf and mark with a pin, Pint etic to the leg opening, matching t Fins. | Front 4, Sew or serge the elastic to the leg opening, stretching the clastic as needed to meet the fabric. Repeat for the other leg opening, pattching adds stretch es the swimsuit a 7. Tum the elastic to the wrong side and topsitch, preferably using a double needleEIASTICS. FAST & FUN TO SEW Super-Quick Gathering with Clear Elastic Clear Elastic isn't just for swimwear. Since ts stretch and retention aren't damaged by stitching through it, ry using 9" or 1" C Elastic to gather both knit and woven fab- elastic is practically invisible and imost no bulk to the gathers. Measure your waist (or where the elastic is to be used) to determine the finished length of the garment opening to be gath- ered, Cut a length of Clear Elastic this fin ished length plus 1! for seam allowa Quarter-mark the elastic and the garment. With the elastic against the wrong side o| the fabric, match the « each end of the fabric Clea pin the elastic 94” from each end, levi loose extension of elastic within the seam allowance, (This extension will provide a ov to grasp, helping to stretch the clastic while stitching it in place.) Place the fabric under the presser foot With your machine set at its widest cer marks; pin. At align the end of the stic with the cut edge of the fabric gz siretch the elastic to fit the Fabric and stitch, reginning and ending °6" from the edge Cycling Elastic As the name implies, Cycling Elastic is perfect for making cycling pants or shor. This elastic is 1" wide with exposed rows of rubber that *grip’ the skin, giving d needed tight fit 1. Set your machine for a zigzag sitch and use a Siretch, Yellow Band, or ballpoint 2. Determine the length of elastic needed. Cut the elastic for the waistline 2° shorter than your comfortable waistline me ment. For the leg opening, cut the elastic the length of the pattern measurement, 3. Butt the ends of the elastic together. Place a scrap of tightly woven fabric under the elastic ends, Zigzag the elastic to the fabric. Trim away the excess fabric 4, Sew the side seams, inseams, and crotch seam of the pants 5. On the right side of the fabric at the sthand and the leg openings, mark the seam allowance with a washable mark ing pen, 6. Ali l seam marking on the right side of the gar ment, Pin the e of the elastic with the ¥ stic to the fabric, aligning the seam i renter back seam of the7. Zigzag the edge of the elastic to the garment along the marked sea 4 medium stitch width and lengch. | 8. Trim away ss seam allowance astic to the wrong side of the garment. Zigzag the elastic to the g; along the remaining edge. line, using \ Stretch | Lingerie Lace There are many ways of appiying elastic | lingerie, The preferred method involves | Swetch Lace—cecoratve, yet soft next to the shin. comes in a variety of widths: a wide ace for the waist and narrower widths for the legs. Stretch Lace also has the necessary ‘mount of siretch for briefs, panties, or sips, and adds a feminine touch, | 1. Deterine the length of elastic need ut the elastic for the waisiline 2" shorter | it your comforble waistine measure ment, plus ¥ for seam allowances. For the Peg openings, cut each length of elastic 2° | stoner than the pattem measurement, plus | 1) for seam allow 2. Use a good quality, 100% polyester thnead and a Stretch, Yellow Band, or bal poirt needle. Stitch all except 1 side seam of f the garment 3. Quarter-mark the leg openings, waist. band, and all lengths of elastic: I — 4, Place the wrong side of the elastic on the rigbtside of the garment, aligning t top edge of the elastic with the cur edge of the fabxic 5. Pin the elastic to the garment, matching. the quarter marks, 6. Zigzag the lower edge of the elastic in place, using a medium stitch wicth and length, Stretch the elastic to match the fabric Trim away the excess seam allowance ELASTICS: FAST & FUN 10 SEW: @ Timesaving Notions. C) ADphiquéscSOR, ine Csciwors ith the dachi blade; ca eso for sore ‘hart appligud work: hen 301 are aig sans Tesaices, pc the ac ‘ile the fabrics fe tried; toe larger blade allows yeas 0 nim cosy ditbcus citing tbe easebelle KNOW HOW: WHICH ONE AND WHAT SIZE? Universal-Point Needles Use all-purpose needles for general sewing on both knit and woven fabrics Universal needles are available in both American and European sizing. (American sizing is listed in parentheses.) Keep in mind that larger size numbers mean larger Special-Purpose Needles Stretch, Yellow Band, or ballpoint needl these needles for tightly constructed knits, such 2s nylon/Lycra swimwear and corton/Lycra blends. The special rounded point slides between the knit fibers, helping to prevent skipped stitches. Stretch needles are commonly available in sizes 75 (11) and 90 (14). For casy identification, these needles are often blue or have a blue or yellow shank Denim needles: As the name implies, these needles are engineered for sewing through dense fabrics like denim. Because the point of the needle is extra sharp, it can pierce the compact, heavy threads of the fabric. Common sizes are 90 (14) and 100 16) Leather needles: These special-purpose needles have a knife-edge cutting point so that they can éasily sew through leather. But if used on fabric, they will cut holes. So dont use leather needles gn synthetic suedes or other fabrics. A common size is 90 (14), Topstitching needles which are available in si These needles, 90 (14), have an—— -) ‘NOW-HOW-——] ‘OnE an ‘Auta ea ree Wp exctrge eve, The large eye alows button- the second number represents the size of holetwist thread or 2 stands of al-purpose each needle 1 itvead easy passage without fraying. Below are some common double needle @ Timesaving sizes and their uses. Notions Double or Twin Needles Sete GEOR ‘pincusbion jor | Probably the most popular of all specialty ew or sight. needles, double needles produce perfectly Pin tucking—delicate fabrics used sewing machine nee parallel rows of stching, every time, Dou- Pin tucking—delicate fabrics | dos. Mare he needle size ) ble neesles will it any zigzag machine that Pin tucking/topsttching— on each section ofthe cus: threads from front to back. Because the light: to medium-weight ‘on. Then son'and place © needles are fixed a certain distance apatt, fabrics the lines of stitching are sewn simultane- Topstitching—mediunt-to ously and the distance beoween the 2 rows heavy-weight fabrics never changes. Double-needle topstitching Topstitching—Use only on a great way to add a tailored accent to machines with 6.0 mm- casual clothes and edges of knit garments, wide throat plate openings, ‘Topstitching/hemming—tight- Topsttchinghhemming— Stretch | ”mediumm- to heavyweight ants To thread your machine: * Use 1 spool of thread on each of the spool pins on top of the machine. + if your sewit has only 1 spool pin, wind exira bobbins and stack the bobbins on the spool pin. + Following the threading instructions for | your machine, guide both threads as 1 te | Double needles are available in sizes from through the ‘ension disk and thread guides. ie | 16mm to 4.0 mm, The numbers indicate —_At the needle, separate the threads and tne amount of space berween the needles. insert 1 thread through the eye of each Sometimes double needle sizes are listed needle. with 2 numbers, such as 4.0/100. In this case, the first number refers to the distance fers between the 2 needles, while in millimZigzag Foot Most of us are familiar with the zigzag foot, because itis the mulkipurpose Foot ‘most commonly used for everyday sewing. ‘This foot has a wide opening, proportionate to the width of the zigzag stitch, The open- ing can range from 4 mm to 6 mm in width, depending on the machine. ‘The throat plate used with the zigzag foot ‘has an opening of similar size so that the needle can easily enter the bobbin area and form a perfect stitch. Straightstitch/Jean Foot ‘The straightsitelyjean foot has a single, small round opening in the center of the foot, just large enough to accommodate the needle, A throat plate with a corresponding small, round opening should be used in tandem withthe foot This foot is useful when stitching slippery fabrics, to prevent your fabric from being forced down into the feed dogs. The tiny ‘opening also minimizes puckering and creates a more uniformly balanced stitch The straightstitch/jean foot is also heipul to quilters. can be used 10 join quilt pieces accurately and to machine-quilt, It’s easy t0 see where you'e stitching when you are stitching “in-the-ditch” with the sraight- itch jean foot.Straightstitch Foot Alternative Don't despair if a straightstitch foot and throat plate aren't included in your sewing- ‘machine accessory box. I's possible to gain the benefits of straightstitch foot while using the multipurpose zigzag foot. I find this akernative especially important when topsitching through layers of heavy fabric. Here's how: 1, Attach the zigzag foot and adjust the machine for strightsttching 2. Move the machine needle position from the center to the leit position. ‘To ensure an accurate seam width, mea- sure the distance from the needle to the seam line edge of the fabric, (Because the needle is offset to the lef, the markings on the throat plate, which are set for a center needle position, will be incorrect. Unless an adjustment is made, the seam will be wider than desired.) Adjust the placement of the seam line as necessary. 3. Stitch the seam, Blindhem Foot The blindhem foot has an adjustable guide that will accommodate a variety of fabric weights and textures. The guide can be moved closer to or farther from the left side of the Foot ‘The blindhem foot is among the most versatile feet in your accessory box. In addition to the traditional use of hemming woven and knit fabrics, this foot can be used for applying patch pockets and pro- ducing super-sraight edgestitching, Blindhemming Woven Fabrics ‘When itis set for a blindhem, the machine will make several stuight stitches, followed by 1 zigzag stitch. This pattem will be repeated for the length of the seam, 1. Thread the machine, using monofiké- ment thread on top and thread matched to the color of your fabric in the bobbin. 2. To stitch the blindhem: © Mark the hemline. Trim the hem al Jowance to the desired width; press the hem to the wrong side of the garment © Adjust the machine for blindhemming (See your owner's manual for your specific settings.) + With the wrong side of the garment facing up, fold back the hem allowance so that 34" to 12" of the hems edge is visible to the right of the foot‘NEEDLE KNOW-HOW: AND FRET SMARTS @ Timesaving Notions Use asize 90014) needle for em- brokdery and dec. native spectaly threads These threads are generat Siner than alipurpece seving tbread, yt they still ray easily na machine iovdle with a small ey 110 Embroidery Foot The embroidery foot has an open toe, The toe may be completely open or its center may be clear plastic. This makes it easy 10 see the sitches as they are formed on the fabric ‘The underside of an embroidery foot has a hollowed or grooved section that allows the dense embroidery stitching to move smoothly under the foot without bunching up under the needle. Traditionally, the -nbroidery foot las been used for applique and decorative stitchery, but it also has ‘many other creati Decorative Stitches Customize your fashions or home furnish- ings by adding decorative machine stitching Take advantage of all those stich designs available on your machine and create some tunique, personalized items. * Toosen (decrease) the machine tension by 2 numbers or notches. This ensures that the top thread will loat on the fabric sar face, while the tighter bobbin thread is pulled invisibly t0 the underside, * Insert new machine needle and attach the embroidery foot + When you are working with a single layer of fabric, stabilize it with a piece of Siitch-N-Tear or Wash-Away undemeath. Or press the waxed side of freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric with a warm iron; & will temporarily adhere to the fabric * Use rayorf o7’corton embroidery threads r, for a more lustrous appearance, try metallic embroidery thread « Remove the stabilizer after stitching, Stitchery Magic—Change Colors Without Changing Thread Although decorative stitches embellish fabric beautifully, we usually must change the thread to change the color. Here's an ingenious way to add color to specific areas without changing threads—use variegated thread! 1. Attach the embroidery foot and adjus the machine for the chosen decorative stitch, 2, Thread the machine with variegated thread; advapce the thread through the needle to the desired color 3. Stitch the portion of the design in tended for that color. 4. When that portion is completed, stop with the needle in the down: position, 5, Raise the presser foot to allow the— NEEDLE KNOW-HOW-— AND BEET SMARTS thread to move easily throug 6. Lower the presser foot. Raise the nee: guides. Advance the thread between the dle and advance the thread through the tension disk and the needle to the color nce for the next portion of the design Note from Nancy Altea test your siicing to de sure tha he design ex- acti the way yu wet Aer choosing your trad ‘and deconaive sic, ty them On Scrap of tbe prom Ject fabric before working. ‘om tbe actual project. + Sitch the next ponic * Repeat unt the endte Negale section is completed position 7. With a hand-sewing needle, draw the Ibooe thas te the undeakle. oe de thread tails and clip off the excess. } iTimesaving Notions When you are sionegramming ‘Buel, the stiches ‘may get buried in the rap ‘of the towel. To prevent this ‘problem cand to achieve ‘more even stcbing, use a layer of Wash-Awnay stabi- ‘ser on both the top and the bottom of te tovel. For ex- ‘ra ease in follawing.be ‘monogram, outline te inte tals om the 1p layer of the” ‘stablizer instead of on tho towel. After you finish sic ‘ng. just remove bot layers ‘of stabilizer. 2 Monograms—The Easy, Decorative Way Create attractive, professional-looking monograms in minutes by using your ma- chine’s decorative stitches. Try this tech nique on towels, pillow cases, and garments, (Remember, always test mono: gram stitching on a scrap of fabric before using it on the project.) 1. Transfer the inital(s) to the Fabric with a washable marker. 2. Back the fabric with a stabilizer such as Stitch-N-Tear or Wash-Away. 3, Select the desired decorative stitch. Consult the instructions for your machine and drop the feed dogs if necessary. Stitch along the outline of the monogram. * Gently and evenly guide the fabric for the smoothest curves and angles * Combine various stitches in the same monogram, if needed or desired 4, When the monogram is completed, clip the loose threads. Tear away the stabilizer and remove any visible markings. Pin Tuck Foot ‘The most distinctive feanure of a pin tuck foot is the series of grooves on the under- side. Depending on the manufacturer, the foot may have 5 to 9 grooves, These ‘grooves provide channels or guides for previous rows of pin tucking. By combining 4 pin tuck foot with a double needle, its simple to make row after row of stright, uniform, pin tucks. Lightweight fabrics like batiste are best for pin tucked garments such as children's clothing or heisloom sewing projects. (Usea size 1.6 mm or 2.0 mm double needle on these lightweight fabrics.) Quick Corded Pin Tucks To make the pin tucks more defined, add cording, Pear! cotton, topstitching thread, and crochet cotton are examples of cording that work well to make tucks more defined. Keep in ming that if the color of the cording contrasts with that of the fabric, it creates an intriguing shadowed effec. 1. Replace the seandard needle with a double needle. 2. From undemeath, insert the cording through the small circular opening on the thrcat plate, in front of the feed dogs. Us sesges looper threader or dental floss threader to draw the cording through the opening. Allow the rest of the cording 10 remain on the spool or cone so that it can easily feed through the machine. (Place the cording spool or cone on the table or floor in front of the machine) 3. With a washable marking pen, mark the first row of pin tucks on the right side of | the fabric. Because this first row will be the Buide forall successive rows, its extremely important that this first row be straight,4, Stitch along the marked line, * Begin stitching at least 4" from the telge tis prevents the siteles and fabric from being drawn down into the bobbin area. As you stitch, the cording is secured to the wrong side of the fabric, inside the tuck, between the fabric and the zigzagged bob- bin thread. * Stitch slowly, because the bobbin thread mnust zigzag back and forth between the 2 rece threads 5. For succeeding cows of sitching, align the frst pin tuck in 1 of the grooves on the pin tuck foot. (The position depends on the Gesired distance between rows of stitching.) Sich, Since the frst pin tek row follows the groove, subsequent sews wil be straight and parallel tothe frst row ‘NEEDLE KNOW-HOW. AND FEET SMARTS it Notions Astbenaneim- Bis, Serger Lovper & Neue Thread's used mainly to {breed te loopers an ne: ies of a serge. But the dong, cured sbape mae i a perfect notion to fit through the oper in te *Broatplale ad draw te condi tbrcugh the nny drole, $0 ou may wean to feep mone than 1 tbreader ‘ow banal 13Tailor Tack Foot “The appearance of this foot varies slighily from machine to machine. itis characterized by a vertical raised bar that runs down the center of the foot. The m: this bar, creating loops, Vertical / raised bar Bur this versatile foot makes more than tailor tacks. Is a real time-saver when you are sewing on buttons and attac der pads, tco. g shoul Fast, Efficient, Machine-Sewn Buttons When you use the tailor tack foot to sew con buttons, you must use the sew-through kind of buttons with holes from front to ack—and they must be flat with no shanks, But you can easily create thread shan for the buttons. Button shanks make it possible for a blouse’s buttonhole placket to fit under the butions without puckering fine stitches over 1. Adjust the machine for button sewing, if possible, If no such setting is avaiable, adjust the machine for a zigzag stich and lower the Feed dogs. 2. Tape the bution to the garment 3. Place the garment under the presser foot, centering the tailor tack foot over the holes in the button, Lower the foot and tum he wheel by hand several times to test the ‘wich of the zigzag stitch. Adjust the stich width if necessary. 4, Stitch through the holes of the bution several times. Ifthe button has 4 holes, reposition the foot and stitch through the remaining 2 holes. 5, When the stitching is completed, re- move the garment from the machine, leave ing extra long thread tals 6, Remove the tape. Pull the thread tals through the button holes, to the space between the garment and the button. To make the thread shark, wrap the tails around the threads under the button. Te the thread tails in a knot and clip the ends. Se with Fray Clieck Thvead tals \ Ne Shortcut: Secure Shoulder Pads with Machine Stitching Using the same settings as those used fer sewving butions, you can attach shoulder pads to the seams of any arment. just thnk Of it—no more handstitcing The thread shank created by the tailor tack foot allows the pad 10 move, eliminating the dimples that can form on the outside ofthe gument i the pads are sewn in too tightly 1. Pin the shoulder pads into positon2. Use the tor tack foot 0 stitch the comers of the pal to the sieeve seam al: lowances and the center of the pad t the shoulder seam allowance, Talo: tacks aN Overcast-Guide Foot IF you don't own a serger and you find that zigzagged edges curl and pucker, ty sing an overcast-guide foot. A special metal bar in the center of the foor’s zigzag open- ing holds the fabric flat while the zigzag goes over the edge of the fabric. This foot also has a vertical bar that serves as a guide for fabric edges, Simply set the machine for avigeag, guide the edge of the fabric along the guice har, and stitch, Discover this foor’s potential for finishing the edges of napkins, tablecloths, and arves, Sewing takes slightly more time than serging, but you can closely simulate the appearance of a serged edge 1. Set the machine for a satin sitch, using a wide stitch width and a shor stitch length. 2, Satin-sttch each edge individually. Do not pivot at the comer; stitch off the edge 3, Use a drop of Fray Check at the comes to prevent the satin stitching fiom raveling Allow the sealant to dry and clip the thread tals Felling Foot This foot is characterized by an opening or groove through which fabric can easily be guided and turned under as it passes through the machine. Groove for fabric ‘As you might imagine, the felling foot was originally designed for making flat-felled this foot you can easily dupli- cate these professionally tailored seams. In addition, you can apply ribbon to fabric for special accents ‘furs the machines wick. by hand afew finest en= NEEDLE KNOW-HOW AND FEET SMARTS ‘Note from Nancy | ‘The hey to making this eam | {sto press under balf of the tei of the eam alousnce | Si that ik can be mone readi- ty guided tts the fling foot. With some fabric, fn erfesing ut the begin | ning of the seam isa that's rnecesary: on others, 5 ad- | ital to pres the entire | sean uith an iron Test fo See wich works best Depending on the peso ‘ofthe groove on the fling Joo, it may be necessary 0 change the postion ofthe * ‘reel so tbat the non is centered botacen the double nevdles 116 Making a Flat-Felled Seam 4, Stitch, guiding the fold of the seam along the groove of the felling foot All raw edges of a flat-felled! seam, such as those seen on jeans or casua enclosed, The seam allowance on 1 side wrapped over and encases the raw edt the other seam allowance 1. Stitch 4 the fabric together. Press the seam © 1 side (generally toward the back ofthe garmen?). 2. Trim 1 of the seam allowances to 1 4 Seam with cerong sides of 3. Fold the remaining seam allowance in nalfand tuck the raw edge under the trimmed seam allowance, so that it encases the cut edge. Press Instant Ribbon Accents The felling foot, sibbon, and a double needle are all you need for this technique. 1. Insert a wide double needle G0 mm to 4.9 mm) and use 2 spools of thread through the top tension guides and needle eyes 2. Insert 2 length of /’-wide ribbon into and through the slot in the felling foo. 3. Stitch the ribbon to the garment, guid ing it along the groove as the 2 needles stitch it in place4. If felling foot is not available for your machine, use the embroidery foot to achieve the same results, Guide the ribbon through te groove on the underside ofthe foot Single Cording Foot The single cording foot is usually an opiio fiom accessory that can be purchased The front for uur sewing machine ofthe foot, with a wide open Zigzag stitch, looks much like the Zigzag foot. But to distinguish this foot, turn itover: The underside of the cording foot has a large, hollov d-out groove to accom mnodate cording, piping, or decorative tim, allowing itto lie at and feed evenly under the foot A Machine Shortcut: Apply Sequins or Beads by the Yard ¢ look to garments, hi and craft projects by or beads. Simply use your machine fing foot to easily stitch them in 1. Mark the beads on the rig liminate puckering, use Stiteh-NTear lightweight fabrics.) 2. Position the sequin or head strip along the placement lines. * Since sequin sirips have a nap, it’s important to place the smooth direction running with the direction of the seam, Runyour finger along the sequin stip; if your finger catches the edges of the sequins, reverse the direction of the strip so that the sequins don't fight” the groove of the ‘cording foot. Always give a “test pat" before you stat Allon nap of sequins ‘diaction tie seam wale sched. * When you are applying beads, minimize bulk by removing the beads within the seam allowances. 3. To set up the machine: * Attach the cording foot + Adjust the length and width of the zigaag,so thatthe stitch is wide and long ‘enough to clear the sequins or beads, + Loosen the upper tension, especially ‘when you are applying tim to lightweight fabrics. * Thread the top tension guides and the needle with monofilament thread, metallic thread, or sewing thread in a color to match the fabric. 4. Place the sequins or beads in the groove of the foot. Stitch. 5. To apply several parallel rows of se- ‘quins or beads, use a quilting bar, Following directions in your owner's manual, attach the bar to the sewing machine's presser bar. For perfectly stright and evenly spaced ide the edge of the bar along the previous row of beading or sequins. Perfect Machine-Sewn Piping Here's an easy way to create and insert piping on fashions, furnishings, and craft projects, 1. To make the piping © Gut bias stiips 2 to 2%" wide by the needed length. Cut cording the same length as the bias strips * Align the lengthwise edges ofthe stip, ‘wrong sides together, and sandwich the cording inside the fold of the bias stip. © Attach the Cording foot. Position the cording so that it fits in the groove on the foot °+ Adjust the position of the sewing ma- chine needle so that the stitching is close to the edge of the cording, Stitch. + Mark 58" from the stitching line. Trim along this line so that the width of the € corresponds to the piping seam allow Width of the gamment seam allowance 2. To insert the piping into the seam: + Sandivich the piping seam allowance between the 2 garment seam allowances, with right sides and cut edges of the gar ment together + Place the conding'in the groove on the underside of the cording foot. +c) dle position so that it nge the ne lies close to the piping and aligns with the inital row of stitch e fo ensure that the needle will stitch 94" from the raw cege of the fabric * Stitch through all layers. The seam is stitched and the piping is simultaneously insened. Note from Nancy usually piping. 8 applied tn 4 2step process the piping: is sewers to: T sicde first andl “then, the sco i sean to sehen Yoetane pa: specially oot, the ote. a step and aloes ta stop rattan 2tep 119.DETERMINING ogy SIZE Take Your Measurements Accurately “To select the comrect patter size, take these key body measurements, ‘To ensime accurate measurements + Ask someone to help you. Its almost fe to hold the tape accurately by + Measure to the closest ¥" ‘+ When taking width measorements, place a thumb or finger undemeath the tape ‘measure to prevent the measurement from, being taken too tightly. To take these body measurements: 1. Bust line—Measure agound the fullest pat of the bust line, keeping the tape mea- sure parallel to the floor. 2. High bust line—Measure under the arms, across the back, and across the top of the bust line.3. Waisthine—Bend to the side: the deep- est wrinkle is your waistline. Stand straight again and measure around your waistline, Keeping the tape measure parallel to the floor, 4, Hipline—Measure the fullest par of the hipline, keeping the tape measure paral- elt the floor. 5. Back waist length—Measuse from the base of your neck to the waistline. Find the base of your neck by bending your head forward until the prominent bone at the base of the neck is easily fel, Sirighten your neck and measure from that bone down your back to the waisiline. 6. Height—Stand barefco with your back toa wall, Lay a ruler flat on top of your head. Mark where it touches the wall. Then ‘measure from the mark to the floor. Buy the Right Size Your figure and the type of pattern that will fi you best are determined by your body proportions. The’ standard body mea- surement charts are featured in the back of each company’s pattern catalog. Compare the height, the back waist length measure- ment, and the description of the pattern type to your own proportions. Key Sizing Measurements For tops, dresses, jackets, and jumpsuits, use your bust line measurement as the sizing key. Compare your bust measurement to the size listed under your figure type. Paterns are sized for a B bra cup. If your bust measurement is more than 244" larger than your high bust measurement, it means ‘you are larger than a B cup size. If this is the case, use the high bust fueasurement as ‘your bust measurement when you purchase ‘your pattem. The neckiine.and shoulder areas will fit better, ahough you may have to enlarge the bust line For pants, skirts, and ilotes, consider the measurement that i$ critical to the fit of the ‘garment when choosing the pattem size. For example, choose a patter by the hipline size ifthe fit tailored through the hipline. Or choose by the waistline measurement if the waists fited and the hipline is gathered or pleated. Misses’ Misses’ patterns are designed for a well- proportioned and developed figure, about 515" to 516 without shoes, ‘These patterns are appropriate for the shorter Misses’ figures, about 52" to 5'3" without shoes. Bust, waist, and hip mea- surements are the stme as those for Misses! patterns, Half-size Half-size pattems are for a fully devel- oped figure with a short back waist length, about 5'2" to 5'3" without shoes.Women's Young Jr/Teen Women’s patterns are designed fe This size range is desige for developing larger, more fully mature figure, about 5'5" pre-teen and teen gitls’ figures, about 51" to vthout shoes, 513" without shoesC 7 Pattern Selection— Valuable Keep It Simple Information on the Pate cats and rns fer a Pattern Envelope enticing selection of re hions Afier choosing a ps the front and the front of the pattern For your first venture inf Sewing, select aor sketches of all of the v ple garment, The conveniently tabbed _style included in the pattern. These photos dons of the catalog ci to specific or sketches, called “views,” usually show size, Look fora _the garments from the front nv" or ‘learr-to the envelope over and you'll dis- foul find shorts, pants, skits, ‘wealth of information. jumpers, and tops especially designed for beginning sewers, attem style, study both of the envelope. The= Back views: The styling ofall the bac : Views may be illustrated on the back of the envelope. Details such as dars, pockets, and variations in length are easily distin uished at a.glance "Body measurements: The envelope will have a concise chart of body measurements, usually including measurements line, waistline, andl hipline along with the corresponding pattem size Suggested fabrics: This is usually only a few lines, but it contains essential infomta tion—the designer’ fabric recommendations The suggested fabric recommendation also guides you away from certain fabrics that = are less likely 10. work for this pattern style. Phrases like “for stretch knits only” and “not suitable for diagonals’ provide important information for you to use in your fabric selection, Yardage chart: To determine the amount of fabric and interfacing to buy, youll have to know 3 things: the pattern view (gene ally designated by a letter), your size, and the fabric wicth. Under the desired view, follow the size chart down and the fabric width char across, The columns intersect at the yardage requirement. ‘Notions: The notions required to make your garment—buttons, snaps, hooks and eves, zippers, Aastic, and thead—will be listed in the “notions? section.( Wat onan Valuable

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