__CORNER DESIGN Billfold Tracing and Photo Patterns. See Pages How to Filigree the Leather Prepating the Billfold for Assembly ‘How to Hand Sew — Saddle Stitching Sewing the Billfold Lacing the Billfold d Splicing the Lacing — Broken Lace 1" Alphabet 13%” Alphabet 3" Alphabet oR RABEFOREWORD ‘This book is prepared for those who haye already had some ‘experience in leather carving. and desire something more chat Tenging. The patterns presented have heen selected for their finer eeu tod especially for their intricate Ailieree design. For those ‘hot having had previous Bigure Carving experience, ws suggested ‘hat they obtain one Or more of the following: books: “How To Carve Leather’, “Figure Carving", or “Pict! Carving.” These books offer stem-by-step instruction in the use of the fyure canving Tools and show how to create the tiny demils t9 he found on the designs within chess pages. For proper instructions on the inyerced ‘carving designs, see the book. “Inverted Lesther Carving’. This method of cicving is fase, effective, and very easy co do. Ie reauires fewer tools chan regular carving. “How To Color Leather” is « {good book to study, for those desiring w color shade their leather carved projects, Some of the examples ate shows on the covers of this book. A-sperial section of the hook i devoted co che art of Filigree. ‘This instruction besos on page 22, showing the tools required. ‘whether one uses the Filigece blade wich the swivel knife bacrel,, ‘or the X-Acto knife, the importanc thing is to have the knife blade very sharp. Strop the blade often on a zouge strop board wo keep it sharp. By carefully following the instructions in te book, you sould have litle trouble with your work. Some practice & recom. mended on scraps of leather, if you have had no previous experi ‘ence. Hest results will be obtained by cutting through the full thickness of the leather with one cut, cather thas several swipes ff the blade in cutting through the dickness. ‘This leaves the cut edges very rough, which i uadesicable for a professional appear: ‘We have also included some special instructions on how co hand sew your hilllolds with dhe saddle stitch. To many people, this has always been a bewildering problem. SELT DESIGNS AROUND BORDER simple ta do. fe is much faseee chan lacing andl will far owease the feather lacing for dutabilicy. Once you have mastered this techs ‘nique of sewiig, you will use ie on. many_of your lesthercraht projects, The profesioval ocver lays the needles or dhe aw! while sewing, The awl is held jn the tight hand (iP ight handed), “with acniecille in each hand. At st, chis will seem very awkward) However, J€ you will persist, the operation will become fanuliac and you will discover that you cin sew vety fast, Aluajs push the 7 heed thew che ave] hole front the buck side fine, .» - hen the reels from the fronc side thru the sime hole. Never vary this: Deovedure. Ie will tke a good deal of practice to inasicr this are + bule once you have... your stitches will he a event and neat machine eewings only much stronger Practice on scraps of Teather until you become proficient with che awl and the needles ull each ofl stitcics io with undorm tightness. Carefully study ail of the instevetions fa die book: When inaking the Traciog Pateras, extreme care should be used to follogy all of tke tines faithfully, Special attention should be given to the conformation of the figures and also to the fine filigree areas of the design. All of the lines on the pattern should ‘be traced, including she douted Lines. The doued lines, howeres, should not be cut with the Knife blade... these are used as guide lives for beveling or for movleling contours, etc. For those finding the tracing procedures very difficule .. . Crajacd plastic templates ace ayailable for each of the Billfold patterns in shi hhoole. Ask your Craftaid or Craftool desler about them. Ic is our hope thae this bool will bring you swany enjoyable hours of personal satisfaction and she pride of achievement. ‘whether for profit or for fan, ‘Many Happy Hours, At STOHLMAN153. FHS. F900 - BLADE OM i i : : i : i : 3 icRamTOOLS | pane FesG. £95. Feel. reso F902 F941. F876. TOIRL -FSIRR- 1858: FIS9- A104. VA06 BSED || Hou Rise VaG2-€770. F368 N9O7-ASB-As9. SUGGESTED AREAS FOR FILIGREESUGGESTED AREAS FOR FILIGREEutili SUGGESTED AREAS FOR FILIGREEused RAFTQOLS | BINB- 5896: FB95- F120: vAES- ABE SE2B_VES3- 368 INVERTED Corvng DestieCRAFTOOLS | AGURE Fe9S- Fas. Fa20-T302. F976 F910 useD ORL B98 W936" V4E2” C770: 7369+ F234 S9Bt~ Age. A99. Fa96 - #900 SUGGESTED AREAS FOR FILIGREELADIES BILLFOLD oses Sees unas gasn siooiavas,LADIES BULFOLD Woot sare 0064 - gens -f0L4 “ceed -vexa -ovex -oeee -aeie | qasn ‘St0oLavulaNOTE: an x-acro Canoe USED IN PLACE OF Fusenee BLADE HOW TO FILIGREE THE LEATHER THE IMPORTANCE OF THE DESIGN Proper design is important for FILIGREE work, The background areas should be well balanced. Long, pointed stems and similar areas of design should be tied to portions of the design so that no loose ends can be snagged and pulled up. Slight modifications on some patterns can make them suitable for filigreeing. Study the simplified examples below. POOR DESIGN FOR FILIGREE, ACCEPTABLE DESIGN FOR FILIGRER. Fuieree ROUND DRIVE PUNCHES. BIADE 100F OF ASSORTED SIZES. Firs any Suacesten sizes FoR Gearroou. MOST COMMON USE SWIVEL MAiPE o- 2-4-6 BARREL OPER SI2ES Hy BEREQURED TOOLS REQUIRED FOR FILIGREEING USE UNDER WORK TO BE FILIGREED ‘A smooth cutting surface should be placed on your bench for filigree work. A piece of lino eum or heavy leather works very well. Background areas are too unbalanced and open. Segments of the design have coo many loose ends CARVING THE DESIGN JO BE FILIGREED If the design is to be filigreed the same procedures apply as for regular carving . ... . except for the background. All beveling should be completed in background areas co raise the design. However, it is not necessary to use the background tools. Note how design has been “closed” tying leaves, scrolls, petals, etc., together. Background is more balanced. Ma BEVEL AROUND. ALL BACKGROUND AREAS.-USE FIRM DOWNWARD PRESSURE eur Wind LEATHER WiTih ONE STROKE. HOW TO FILIGREE THE | HOW TO FILIGREE THE LEATHER | curring Ni Begin cutting out the background with the filigree blade or X-Acto knife. Always cut away from the holes... never towards them as a slip could be disastrous and ruin the carving or weaken the structure of the design. Do not lean the knife co left or right; ting. Be sure to place your cucting sutfa DESIcn Arrows show proper direction of cuts. Study carefully. Use caution so as not to cut thru a portion of cera Design filigeeed. Turn the page for continued inscructions the filigree structure.Bens rte Ga on CoioRs. © © eke ee Sea Many variations are possible w vip eouecT Sie do all dyeing or coloring at this time hatte ap the Rlimseed aeat bi your. “oeoe 1s Shown hove Pour some Ficbings Tan Kore (or your favorite leather project Tie a ually sane ih eRenee dressing) into a bowl, and apply liberally co the project with a sponge. Work the dressing inco all of the filigreed areas, being sure all of the edges have been covered Wipe off all excess... . front & back. Allow co dry thor- oughly Back -UP LEATHER MATeH-STICK @ OR SPATULA To fasten back-up leather to project, apply strong bonding cement to flesh side of filigreed leather. Spread evenly with spatula do not cement in filigree openings. Press back-up leather in place before cement dries. . . co insure adhesion. Do not apply cement to back-up leather, assonreP. BACK-UP LEATHERS gold or silver kid, suede, or other lightweight leathers of a variety of colors, Use the color of your choice. suave 10.8 Fearne epce aeodseMin AMienee aen, Cut the leather larger than the coral filigreed areas, yet smaller than che outside dimensions of your project, as shown above. Skive all edges to a feather thin edge ee If large project, or glue sets up too fast, cement a small area at a time. Lay back-up leather down, press in place. Fold un-cemented area back up (see above) and apply cement (0 another small section Repear until project has been completed, Caution too much cement will run down into the filigree openings. Some experience may be necessary to avoid this.PREPARING THE FILIGREED LEATHER FOR ASSEMBLY LING LEATHER, Back uP After cementing the back-up leather in. place, cement a lin- © ing leather over entire project. Use a skiver, or lightweight goat or calf. Cut slightly oversize when possible; trim off excess after cementing. ‘Trim leather to correct project size. The billfold back is ready for assembly. How to Hand Sew begins on page 26. How to Lace begins ‘on page 28. Follow all of the directions very carefully SLIGHTLY ROUND. J CORNERS ) PREPARING THE BILLFOLD BACK FOR HAND-SEWING ASSEMBLY Afver gouging channel, use No. { edger and stircume TOP EBGE OF edge front and back side of top edge only. BOSE: es Moisten and busnish top edge only (indi Ng ely ny he te No.7 oveR- Trin OFF LINER, FLUSH wit BULFOLD BACK ¢ billfold liner in place, ali edges with the billfold bac wover, gouge (very lightly) a channel the inside of the billfold as shown above, Bllfold is now ready to hand sew see follow ing pages, 25 Moisten gouge and run ove stitch wheel all around the channel to mark stitching holes, Gouge a channel all around . . . approxi mately 14" from edge... with the stitch ing groover.HOW TO HAND SEW SADDLE STITCHING | J wax Enos To rme oS Nod CORD, BEES HARNESS AW. OvERSTITEH GROOVER war NeepLes De Mine Neyo Bite NOT Pony” YWRERD Cut a piece of thread about 6 ft. Wax the thread by placing on Jong. Prepare both ends by pulling took ‘and. rubbing, “back and TOOLS AND MATERIALS REQUIRED ue me blade. Sha preguts forth. "Wax hh siden, fall On blade unravels and frays the fibers, length, Waxing the thread tapering she sinews to fine points: lengthens its life) makes. sew Repeat until “silky ing easier THREADING THE NEEDLES GOUGING THE CHANNEL MARKING TRE CHANNEL STABBING THE WL HOLES, yaws oF BEGIN SEWING, BILLFOLD AT END, as FIVE, ok six marks Fon CORNER STITCHING, Groover’ oveRstircH Clamp project in lacing pony with jaws close to channel. Stab awl holes rect angle (see below), Press fi against leather to assist in stabbing holes, if necessary, as shown, ADJUSTABLE BAR ‘Thread the needle by following steps Adjust the gouge to cut above, This locks thread on needle Moiscen the gouged achannel about 1/” from areas lightly and Rept pein th hr nee | Sigal erp Poe’ Meaty | GMT Rone and other end of thread. Wax ends ing end against leather wheel all around to “fuse” threads cogether. to insure a uniform ‘gouge. the channel. This marks position of awl holes, FF aoe “TREND wt FEPPT co 26| As you sew along billfold, keep stitching area directly above jaws of lacing pony move bilifold as — required. 355 iets Berries a okt Fal fold. Stab firse hole five or six marks from corner. Stab Push needle first hole and pull to center of thread Stab second hole e "A" from back e thru 2nd hole, as shown. Always push needle hack side thew first! from jon for Carved ae Push needle "B" thru same hole. Use case nor w pierce thread “A”. If pierced, threads must be uncangled, shown for right handed person sect Spike fe BacKstrren 2 HOLES: ly around billfold to be. ining hole, Backsticch thru. last two holes co lock threads. tightness. Practice makes per fect. Stab ath hole. Pull stitch tight. Each stitch is pulled tight with same pressure for professional look. Stab 3rd hole. ‘Cut off with sharp knife. on bench; tap all sewing with hammer. Re-run_ wheel over all stitches. This aids uni formicy Z\@ Repeat steps 3 & 4. Always push needle from back side thru first. Always push front needle ehru hole on same side of thread. mf stk Finish edges as shown. Edj both sides with =1 or edger. Moisten & burni Apply dressing to edge.Hold billfold as shown, Begin ee lacing in 6th or 7ch hole from corner, Follow: lacing inseructions ac right. HOW TO LACE THE BILLFOLD 5 YARDS OF Lacie. 1s you2 un oF REQUIRED. SSH RINGER cur 2 PIECES, ACK 3 YDS. IN LENGTH « ATTACH NEEDLE TO EAC PIECE, NOTE: RUB PARAFFIN On FLESH SIDE OF Lace FOR SMOOTHER Lacine Pull the beginning sicch thu the hole; leave about 3/4. of the end Lace thru the next hole Push che needle under the bight. Hold the of the lace down on the all the seitch tight; lac ing over the end. This formsa cross or “bight” back side 4 feta pow € me ° ees ave 7 ROUND. OR “TIP CORNERS. NOTE: FIRST .... punch holes in top edge of billfold back. Then, cement billfold liner in place as shown on page 25. Punch the remaining, holes thru back and liner, Punch holes from carved side. Use the punch and hole style of your choice. Space holes correspondingly for ¥@" or 3/32” lacing, Pull the stitch up snug (not tight): lace theu the next hole, Pill che suitch stay and once again go thru the bight +4 Be sure the lacing is not twisted as you pulls up snugly under the bight cin ek, ee tesSeD, PED LC! a 7 eer SAY BiSuon Fg Sars P Ts be fim TOE sctches | Continue leg a8 pre iy See MoRGeRTA. HOLES Pall he uch yp sms: | should nor be pulled | wow thea Pall ace thru the next hole. | tight; only snug The | remaining stitches ti wey, S wgeever wegen gpg agnea | Theendcanberetewed | purpose for ear ad | with even presire ae XQ Agrancce’ THO’ Pune ND a tC now locked in J justment when finishing | sure to go thru bight on SN Hoseits CRESS NB place ts Suan 28 XN MISE ais ancue On HORIZONTAL Law Sits, VS SM ore: ici eta tar ae Roe R ESOTaero nt" $e Y length of lace. over end of lace © o| SPLICE the LACING Lace until only 5” ot 6" Detavlede spite s of lacing remains. The splice will now have to be made with a new Use Model pull end af Carefully follow Pull end of lace out of OnE LE Gut off end eck be tween leathers and lice thru the next hole. a Push stylus down be toween leathers and hook Pull end of lacing down tighe. All stitches should appear even and equal ly spaced. Pull slack out of first Toop. Adjust lacing with Pull-needle thru, Push Carefully cross over as shown .. and push nee dle down thru the loop stitches appear equal aryhis 10 free of “Twox END BETween CeaTHeRS Pull stitch tight and lace UP thre loop from the back side, All holes on back side should be fill Lave under che bight cdo. not pull chis stitch Carefully cur off lave Tap. lacing flat with mallet, or roll: flat with Push needle chru bole up BETWEEN leather and out betweenBROKEN LACE WHAT TO DO WHEN THE LACING BREAKS WHILE STITCHING. SPLICING THE DOUBLE LOOP STITCH CUT A PIECE OF LACING 2% TO 3YDS. LONG AND RetAch TO NEEDLE. FOLLOW SPLICING. INSTRUCTIONS BELOW. THE METHODS: ON THs PAGE APPLY To BOTH SINGLE .... AND DOUBLE Loop STITCHING. srmero vemnees © © Invert newly threaded needle down berween leathers: (3 or 4 holes from lacing) and_pull out hack side Leave about 3/4" of end. E Eee mre Oceasionally, due to eur for injured lace, it will break while stieching Follow instructions 10 repair the damage Approximately 5° ta 6° cof hacing ts required «0 make the splice. Follow instructions at right emove broken end of lace from stitches with modeling stylus qyecen Soe Begin new lace down be Continue La cin g with Tuck end of lace be | Lace to new lace; push | Pull old lace up tight; f Seread leathers; pull | tween leathers and out | new lace. Tuck ends be eween leathers and com | needle up becween lea: | cutoff ex at an angle broken end of lace wut | fick hole vacated by | tween leathers Use care tine lacing project with | chers (opposite entrance | Allow about 3/4” of “a seh ete eine = role lace end, as palo lace end old lace cf new lace) as shown, fend to remain, i So yee a oe 6 Ere ois oH Continue Lacing the project. Lacing over the fends, as inscructed, locks them in place. Continue ends of the lace... ths Jocks them in place; they ‘will not pull aut Tuck end of old lace be tween leathers; continue facing with the new lace Hold finger firm new lace end as fi saitch 1s pulled tight Begin lacing with new lace ... push needle un: der the bight (cros) 30, Lace the project to its conclusion1 SSCS I? & 1 STAC 1OPORD IC Iv WhKYZ=ABEDEIG| 4 AUIBOIDISSATETIURUL AW A SS Heesa RA aN Pe ij pila) URS As