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    Designing by Draping PDF

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    ziva

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    DESIGNING BY DRAPING x M x m % x x % %- Women’s Institute iz a % eagron pa. © PS % % % x DESIGNING BY DRAPING a NEAGES DRAPING, as applied to the development of wearing apparol, refors to the process of fashioning & garment vithout the aid of e pattern, that is, working directly with the material, pinning, shaping, and cutting it on the figure itelf, 1b overconos tho Limitations of pattorse and rosulte ina woll-fitting gament. fon you have noquired tho sbility to drape, you aro oquippod to dovolop original dociens or to cory ony that you wish, And you fo this in a vay to minimize ony irroculerities and produce gormonss that fovor the lines of the Tiguze, ke you Desone experionesd in this wrk, you vill feel a gronter froodom in the handling of febriee and s more definite upprociation of their boanty ond adapta- Dility. Every gansont you make will bo o true exproasion of your fooling for Lino, proportion, bulanco, end senso of style and fit, os woll as your abslity to combine harmonious ooloxs ox omart contrasts, You who havo nimble fingore and an eyo for tho besutiful, oan sudstontints your telont and round out your drossmak- ing ability by a study of the princivles of dreping. You will find thie informa- on n ready guide and a valuable help in making any gormont that you develop © eredit to you ond ¢ distinctive creation. PRINCIPLES OF DRAPTHG ries and Designs Thon selecting material for drsping a gammont, it m fabrics are wore suiteblo for the purpose than oth~ fobries rocuire difforont mothoda of hendlirg, Those igh drapo wall aro: sll Kinds of soft silk or ayuthetio cropos, suoth~ or Fough-finichod; sating, plain and hemored; velvots, transparent, Lyons, broeaded, chiffon, end uncut; ucffcine; moire; ohiffons; leoea; sheor, light-weight wools; emo; ad eoft cottons and linons. letoriels that ere stiff, heavy, and not very Pliablo do not lond thousolves very agroombly to tho p=coosavus of draping slthmd: ovon they have pousibilitios in the hends of az oxpurt éropor, In ueing a mstorisl having © usp or a print dosign with o definite up-and-dom ‘ttorn, thoso characteristics should be carofully considered so thet thoy will ‘uniform throughout, In handling taffeta, the tendency of this febric to be ffent mst be taken into account, whon employing chiffon, the fact that it ic shocr and billowy will roguire a xofe Liborel use of tho fabric, Soft fabrics in errto weight give tha most graceftl effects because of their inclination to cling Where necessary and to fall into Loney. rhythmic folds. Iaportence of Muslin in Draping.--It will be to ‘the advantage of tho beginnor to > hor first draping in uuslin,« plat that.is followed by docignors of many yoars of oxpericnes, boeauas it pormite a freedom that develops ono's oroative powere the wampst degroo, Alsc, developing tho uodol in melin first will mcke the work nero interesting, onjoyeble, and aévontagoons, for thon the drapod creas will carry grostor porfootion thaa it ordinarily vould in tho vory first dc @lition, a saving cf dross actorial usually results, so, or trying out ideas provide ¢ muubor ef yarde of inexponsive muskin that is of a woight ond priabilit; recenbling as nosrly as possible the fabric te de used in order that tho offvets achieved Fill be tho sac, 2 DSSIGNLYG BY DAMPING 4 2 Of courco, there are many simplo draping problems what do not roquiro development in muslin first, and as your experienoo along those lines incressos, you may work @iroctly with the materivl., However, it te well to Keep 2 eupply of the draping miolin on hand, so that if you should moot with a foature thet scone difficult to plan, you cat ley tho dregs material oside and work out the troublocome detail in tricl fabric. hon using cuslin, you will noed to add will meagre tho sac ce tho width of tho material fron the garment, Yor instance, if your mclin is 36 inches bo dovelopad of 39-inch flat crepe, suv a ctrip of su! to ncke iv the proper width for use when the full widt! end prosa tho evan open. on of Dusign to Dray 2 nto inplic arigeraeketata ree preferably be employed for effects o ly tailored ones, Also, in draping, it is important r larre-murfecod. of- fects, thet is, thosc which de not cut up tho maicrial into emall pisces. As you gain experience in draping you will learn to rocoguize the type odosign thet can Be developed to advantage sy this nethod. to its width in sone cass, so that it oxpoct to out do end your dross is to mt size to the malin of the fabric ic neodod, 5 a soft technique are rather than strict Unity of Bffect.--In draping, cortsin principles of arose devolopnont imstbe enze~ Filly observed. First, the garment ase whole should be considered in an offort to work for unity of effect rathor than for detail, to wateh the line of the fig~ ure nnd the proportion of ths lines te one another, and te observe the effect the droping hao on thess lines. In the graphic instruction given, only a section of a gament is treated at a time, but, vhen a complete garment is being draped, it is vexy nocescary thatthe various soctions haruonize in line vhun they ero combined and that they are suitable and Decoming te the porson who ic to wear thon, ave an illustrebion of the gemont doaired or a rourh skoteh of your idea always before you while you aro draping. You ney need tc nnke slight changes es you procecd, but it will holp you to retain the unity of offect which is oasential to all good designing, Roguirenente.--A thorough understanding of sowing and the principles of dreceaak~ ing end deaign ia tho first ossenticl in a castery of droping, Hot only does this Kmovlodge cimplify the actucl work of draping, but it makes pocsiblo tho perfoct completion of the draped gamentn. Thon, it vill be necessary to have 9 dross for: if you intond to drape garments for youreeli, This form chould bo propared to be on oxact duplicate of your fig~ ro necording to instructions givon in the Dress Fon: acction of the Cutting and Fitting volume, In paddize the fora, de careful te reproduce the posture of your Figaro, Tho om, which should be detachable, may bo filled with horsehair which is ddoal for this purpose because it is licht and resilient. A dross fom heving fa skirt foundation ic an ndventoge for the draping of skirt Bluo and rod colored poncils, tailors! chelk, pins, suslin, tape measure, plunb lino, yard stick, noodles, and throad in coveral colors cre importent roquirouonts, Procedure in Draping Draping on Figure or Dross form,--When draping = garnont for a person other then Youraci?, it is roll to do the work directly on tho figure, as the illustrations throughout this book show, these having been dana on a 36-aize figure. jlewever, elopment may work raping icult to etail in phat it, : to out 5 is to malin Readod, clinique strict cod ef 48 you et ean ban ne DESIGNING SY DRAPING 3 never attonpt to drape on yourself’, Always use your dross fom for thia purpose, ‘ut do the fitting dirostly on the figure, profercbly with the aid of en oxperi~ a porson, In working out a new and originel idee or in aiming for a dosirod offcct, you will fing it a pleasure to exporitiont with unteriel on a drece for, this exabling you te work witheut haste or foar of tiring 2 model. Sono professional designers like vith sotual. fabrics instead of muslin ot sell, wcll-preportioned sures, This, they find, gives thez greater freedom of oxprosaicn, for the rs- tof coubining certain textures snd colore enn be soon inmwdiately, and the his parpose is not vory groat. Laver, e draping is dono with gron oul cost of using short lengths of nsterinl for: thon repecting the idea on = ustural-cise figure, onse and assurance, Undor-Are Tinee,--To the beginner, the placing of the sesu Tines nay se paznline, but caroful study will enable you to decido on the prop- er position of shoulder and under-am seats with no hesitancy, those boing the two ingortant seas whose location on the figure is proctically tho oauo in every case, & kno of the proper position of those seans wiil holp you in drapi much of tha good offect dep on it, An ili-pleced sen is tlvays aviward. Correct Shoulder sné By.obsorving the location of these seme on othors as well as on yoursclf, you will notice that the chowldor sce is placed in s line fron the highest point at the nook to } inch tack cf the highost noint on the tip of the shoulder, as chown in Fig. 1. Therefore, in droping, stand at the diroc: side of the pereot or dress form on which you are working, and bring the back and the front togothor om this line. The undor-ern line should bo in lino with tho shoulder sean, at right angles to the floor, and straight up and dowi with ebsolutely no ourvos whon viowed fron the dire position, nso the pluub lino, that is, ghted tapo under the am slightly back of the conter of the ampit end drop the woigited end straight to the floor, ce shown in Tig. 2. When viowod directly from the cide, the under-arm sesn should coincide with the plumb lino. If you aro using « drees form for draping, follow the shoulder end lings on the propared covering of your fomi,firet hav- ing touted these for eecuracy in relction te each other with the plunb lino. Al: to facilitate the work, it is voll fez you to onphaniso thon vith colored poncil other foundation lines, ineluding tho nook, buet, waist, and hip the contor back, tho amhole, the side sean lines, tho 4 tho widest part of the urper am, and the wrist, os shorn in Mg. 3. Marking Ginos o Aeouraey in Draping.--Droping showli be started cocurotely, thet is, with the proper regard for the warp and woof threads and a definite contor lino, which usu- Jy cones on the lengthvise throsd, dlvays neko sure thet tho center fold is securate, and that the grain of the upper and under aoctions of tau sinilar,’ Since much of tho ctaping will be done with the uoteriai doublo in thic woy, it is essential thet tho grein of both be oxactly alike. Also, do not allow the straight throad of the : al to vary frou tho straight Lino you aro fbllor- the conter front, contor tack, bust, and hip linos, In fact, the theso lines is of the utcost inportance and should always be kept in hile draping, In naterials in which it is difficult to follow the thread, it iss wise plon to nark the position of the bust and hip lincs, aa shown. 6 DESIGNING BY DRAPING of design. A large woman should wrk for tho sppoaronce of easy smoothness, while ‘the very thin women needs a goft, leoso offuct. Hosvy fabrics aro umuelly fitted wore closely than soft or thin ones, ‘The style feature should bo worked into the garment durine the actual draping, o that when the various parts are basted to~ gether the effect will be that for which you are striving, Changes during final fitting are not ucually necessary, but if you feel that there vould be an improve- mont made by an altorabion of this kind, do not hesitate to make it. Marking Dot2ile Aoouratoly.--Tt is cleo most important that seom lings, plaite, darts, and all other dotails cf construction bo marked accurately in order to sim- plify the mcking, Such uvene as colored poneil, pins, tailors’ cholk, and Lines of basting exe suggested in the dircotions givon you, the method to use depending on the neteriel as woll as the portion of the garmont to bs marked. or instance, some fabrics vill not allow of tho use of tailors! chalk; on these, uso basting, or, if pino cro found satisfactory, particularly for darte, sean lincs, ete., use then alone, Jhon working in actual febric, it will uu necessary to pross open seams before unpinning and to basta with black or contrasting throad slong pressed linos in oréer to retain than throughout tho eubsoquont busting and finishing of the garment, Fer armhole lines, whero tho sloovo ia to bo sot in, basting or tailors! chalk ic proforable, All narks on the muslin should be carofully trans~ forred to the fabric, ng ed ¢ In tho instruction given, only soctions of a garment ‘are dovoloped at first in orier to enable you te bocoue proficien: with tho method of constructing oach, As you progress, you will find it practical to combine sev- eral sections ins singls droping project, as, for inatanco,’ a solected bodice, sleeve, end exirt might bo draped on tho figure in a single process, In overy caso, when éraped and pinned, the sowing still reneina te be done after the seo~ tion or sections arc rouoved. Tho rowovel of ns fow pins as possible and accurate marking before basting tho eoaus will holp to retain the originel lines, although, whon necessary, sections of tho garuont may be marked carefully, ontirely taken apert, end redraped, ax, for instance, whon a collar or peplun hee boen applied. Plen to put the ferment on st least onco during tho meking, or, if you are a be~ gimner, tice, to ascure yourssL? that each detail is correct, Ouo fitting should take place aftor basting, the other after stitching the some but before tho final finishing is done, BODICES OF ONE-PIRCE TYPE Gertain todices are of the one-piece type, that is, the front is in one piece as is also the back, oo that each ono can bs draped with the material folded dom the center front and back, 4 maber of such bodices are presented, each charac- terized by certain features that zeke ite draping somvhet different from the othere, Ae in oll tho draping throughcut this boo} figuro, ené the measurouents of tho materi cordingly. Hovevor, for varistione from th: be mado according to the aize of the figure, these bodices were draped on a 36-size for laps and drapes worked out ac- 8 size, chengoe in the allowences must With Undor= im Dart In droping tho plein, exooth-fitting bodice with undor-orn dart, you learn many foundation principles that oan rosdily bo epplicd to practically all types of Plouse designs thet have rogulation amsholes with or without set-in slooves, The Anstruction thet follows is, therefore, very important, Bess, white eliy fitted °d into the ce as down arac- | the 5 20~ must sany of Tho DESTORIN: BY DRAPING Zor the front of the bodice, moaeure off a length of matoricl extending inches above the higheat chouldor point near tho neck lino, dom ovor the st to 2 inches dolov the norms] waist line and eut on a straight throad. Thon gure off crosswise of the fabric the width of tho bust from» point dirsetly der one am to the cthor plus 6 inchss and cut on a straight thrond. Hark the et throad line, fold tho mstoriai lengthrise throw the center, and mark tho 1a 2s tho conter front. Then pleco ogeinet tho right side of the figure with fo foldcd cfge directly et the ecouter front and tho bust threed lino running the apex of the bust, ond pin et tho conter-front buct line end Te achieve the ease noceseary for moct draped bodieor, ny in and pin sn oven }- inch fold of both thicknassos of tho material 5 to 5 inches fron the center front and parallel to it, oxtending frou tho lover vage up over tho apox of the bust to a point sbowt 3 inches above it. ‘This is known es tho eae dart and ie retained throughout the draping. thon the figure is thin or the material soft, a }-inch or even larger fold ray be proforrcd, as exporizents will detormino. In the drapes thet follow, tho ease dart ic included or ouitted as we think sdvisable sineo it is an individual ssttor end cannot bo applied to 211 equally, Srooth the x iol ureily across the figure at the bust thrond linc so thet the crossriso thr perfectly horizontal, and, teking caro not to havo a arema appoorence, avin at the under-ara sean lino, Jolding the naterial in position at the conter-front neck line, snroth it outvard and upward end pin on the shoulder lino te the shoulder strep. old the uatericl findy on the suoulder with thy loft hand, and, The Ficht, smooth ic dow gontly tozard the under aru. Ley in o fod ab the uni ara alenr the Duet threed line in order to digose of the surplus raterial con centrator here and pin this in» dert, oxtendim this not nearer then 2 inches of the apex of the Dust and toking care not to alter the horizontal position of tho bust throsd linc, This dert should not be mare than 3/8 to 2 inch wide at the jer-ani som line, If it ahculd bu nocesrary to dispose of more natorial, then din at the shouldor or front neck line, instruction 2 second dart ehould be Le! for which is given later. At the waiet line, snooth the materisl fro the front to the under-am sean lino ond yin, taking care to avoid a drevn nppearence. At about 1 inek beyond tho tentative under-ar: sea line, trin av+y excess material, as indiented, up to the + Slash the material onco or twiew at the crsoyy, taking care not to cut 00 elese to the smecye to persit 0° furthor correction. 5B.--For tho bodice beck, nossare 9 length of uaterial frou 2 inchos above the topsost shoulder point to 2 inches below the novel veist line end out on 2 streight thread, Crosavise on this usterial, nessure the width of tho back fre. ne unter-ar sean line to the othex plus 6 inches, end out on = ‘ark the crosevice thread Line on this section. Fold through the eonter Lenyth 6, tark the fold for tho conter back, and place against tho right side of figure at tho back with the lonzthrise fold directly over the eenter-oack 1 3 the pper edge oxtendine 2 inchos beyond the top shoulder point at the neck line. Pin at the conter-brek dust ard waist lines. Lay in end pin the easc dort 3 to 5 inches from tho center back, as oxplained for the front. Keeping the throad of the metericl straight and horizontal around tho figure at tho threa) line, scooth cutwart toward the under-er: sea linc, avoiding a drew eppecrance, end pin, It is not nocossary that the back thread line neet th ye 4 i a DASTCHING SY DRAFING one at the tront, Thea eznoth upvard tovard the shoulder, Xeoping tho contor-beck fold in position, and disrose of ths oxtra uaterisl by piuning in 2 anall 18- to 14-inch vertical dart 2 te 4 inches in lonzth at the neck. Then, fron the front, pin the back vo the front along tho shoulder ern line. Similarly, at the under fama, guooth downvard and cut anc pin the front end beok togothor at the under-am gona line. fe for up es at the front, out svay the oxeosa material 1 inch from tha unéer-an: ser Linc, and clash in at the amscyo, tekin, the sence precautions jontioned for the front. Trig off the shouldor fabric to within 1 inch of the pins. Slash alee at the lower cdgo, both back and frout, bulow tho waist line, + 50.--Glesh for sass xt thy neck lino, back ond front, tokis tho elosc. laos 2 tepe smucly around the ami close to tho sh the top. lark alon: the outer cdce of this tape of this narkine and continue the under-ar: tris care not to cut dor end pin at Trin eney te within 1} inches in; to the amscyo. If you are vorking with muslin, wark with colored yeneil the dart lines, back and front, the vhouldor-seas and the undor-am sea linos. euove the febrie from tho figure. Rewovo all pins, transfer tho markinss to the left cide of the muslin, taking yreat care thi ust thread line of the right side lies directly over that of the left sido. Unfold end repin on both sites the oase darts, the under ar: derte, snd the back neck-linc dart If you ore vorking with the final fabric, open flat an press in the shoulder and under-oms yinned seas and the derts beforo unginning, unfold, and baste with con trastiny thread along the precsot linus. Then proceed as oxplainod for malin, Figs, 5D and 58,--Tith the matoriel umfnlded, place tho front nnd the beck on the Figure ogein with the centur-fromt and conter-back ani the horizontel bust thread linos pleced correctly, iin at the coutor-front and the contor-back bust and weist linos, Pin front and deck toy other et cach under-ar: sen at the front bust thread lino ané en together alone both showldor linog taking care not to al- Jor tho meteriel to slide down as it is inclined to do. If you watch the posi- tion of the orossriso throad lino et the front and back, you will heve no diffi- oxlty in adjusting the uatoriel properly te the figure, ‘Then pin toxethor at both under-arz coat Lines without sirsinin: or pulling tho natericl. wake certain that the under-ara scan lines ere in linc with the shoulder evan ond oxaetly vortionl vhen viewsi from the sido, using tho plunb line for this survose. Place a tape around the base of the neck, the lover odgo of the tape at the right si tape eround the normel uveiet line and mn: right sido front ond back only. nm at the center front, ond mark around front and back only, $lece and pin e at the lower edge of the tape at tho Hig. 58.--Rewove the tapes end trim eray r of the neck line end the waist lino, front , the shoulder, and the under am seen, loaving -inch sonu allowances. mark the richt emeoye in front to get an appearances of a straicht line from tho end of shoulder to the point nhere it curves to the under ema. Your first markings will serve a a guide but “will undoubtedly need correction. Yark tho risht-beck amssoyo, allowing } inch greater length at the shoulder then on the front %o provide the necessary oase for the Movenont of the shoulders and the forvaré movement of tho am. This is cased into the front shoulder when soviny the garment. In morking tho armseye underneath, have it epponr aso straivht line across the under-orm sean, narkin: it } inch lower than the setual empit of the figure and curving it up to meet the back end front ermhole lines. It ig advisable to develop the right side only up to this point in order to avoid irrorularities. us materisl at the right side \ } A\ 10 DESLOFING BY DRAPTIG Unpin the left cide seans only, and ravove the uaterisl from the figure, If you are working vith muslin, true up end siork with poncil cf enother ooler slong the correct right shouldor snd under-ar scan linos, both back and front, before re- roving the pins. Mork for corresponding notches at both zight ehoulder and wndor-am seers, back ond front, If you are working with actual dross fabric, preaa open tho Goss at tho right shoulder and under ama before renovins the ping to form creases along the pinucd lines, thus correcting the former tentative narkings, Ronove the first colored basting-stitches and rebaste where noconsary. Aloo, proas out the cago darts. Renovo all pins, fold on both conter-front and contor-back linos, end tranefor all accurate markings to tho left side, again taking caro that tho herizontel thread linos correcpond, Trin away the maperfluous nsterial on tho loft sidey With tho oxcoption of the esse darts, besteell darts tc the wrong side, and baste front end beck tegethor clone; ths marked soun lines with notches matching, You now have a plein bodies with under-ari dart end high neck linow : Tf you havo boot workin: in mclin, you nay use this draped bodico as ¢ pattern, taking groat onre, when pinning to tho dress material, that the threcsd lines correspgnd aceurately snd that the matoricl does mot shift when outtings z .--On the muslin bodice, you ney mark and out ny susrt neck line desired, Hiss; Gf you are uakins sn evenine gow, it vill bo nucossary to out out the amn~ scye to the docired dopth, In addition, you may mark on this plain bodice any yoke or other out design, When revatting in the droas fabric, ve sure to add J-inch soa «llowence on both sidee of tho cut edges thus created. With Shoulder Dart and Comtor Closing For certain designs and certein types of figures, a dort ot tho shoulder is pre~ forrod to one at tho under ara, Also, a waist-line dert is souetines needed, par~ ticularly in e bodice of the basque type, whero it is desired to fit out all ful- noss at the waist line for a tri, suwoth effect. How co provide for both of these darts and how to dispose of the nateriel thoreby obtained aze nettors that ere trosted in the various parte cf Mz. 6, Figs 6.--Cui a soction of muslin or msteriel of the required eizo. If you are draping for a basque, provido on additional 2 inchos er wory in length, aceoré~ ing to the desired depth of the basquc, Procood as for Pig. 5. iho ease dart nay be omitted if a vory sooth, close-fitting bodice is desired, Before pi ning the ustorial st tho chouldor, sicoth it upward fron the under arn tows: the center of tho shoulder, Figs 6h.--After unking certain that the centor fold is dircctly at the center of tho Figure at the nock, disposo of the oxtra fulness by leying in and pinning, Af to 2 inches from the shoulder tip, s dart whose lowcr ond points toward the apex of the bust, slashing, as shown, for ease, At the waist linc, lay in and pin a dert with its uppor ond pointing tozara tho apox of the bust and ite edge parallel to the conter front, Tho depth snd longth of this dart will vary vith the size of the figure, Snooth the uaterial toward the under-am soa and pin at tho yeist lino. Fig, 6B.--Ao in Fig, 5B, prapare the usterial for the back, cutting it 2 inchos or nore longer for 2 basque. If a centor-back closing is deairod, supply the ad- @itional auount nooded and pin it into the febrie along the center-back fold be~ fore beginning tho draping, Be sure to ollow enough neterial for both the overlap re. If you r slong the before ron houlder and 8 fabric, ns the ping tontative Rocessary, sa transfer horizontal lott side, side, : pattern, ed lines \ desired, the ane dics any ro to add is pre- ful~ oth of re that ter of aning, rd the in A a pin acho ad 1 bee slap DBSTOMENG BY DRATING n ry DESIGNING EY DRAPING and the type of finish desired, Then proceed as in Fic. 53, but omit the ease dart and do not slash the lover edge, For s fitted effuct, lay in and pin a dart at the back waist lino after you have pinned the back to tho front at the under- ars sean line, Continue eo with Figs. 58 and 50. After ronoving the fabrie from the figure, cut through the center-back crease where the overlap is to be, re- Place the bodice on the figure with the center back properly placed, and proceed es vith Figs. 5D, 58, ond 5%. Remove, nark the left eide just like the right, end cut ewey surplus netorial. igs 60.--If a basque effect is desired, uark for the lower edge 2 inches below tape Line placed around tho waist line as direoted for Tiga, 5D and 5D. erial leid in at the front waist Line nay be finished as a group of 2 or 3 unl invard darts to produce a decorative effect for the basque. @art at tho shoulder may later be tranalated into » group of pin tho longth of the original dart, or into ahirring, and thet at the weist line treated sinilorly + 62.n-At the beck, fold and baste the hem on each side, allowing sufficient for the overlap. Or, treat it in any monnor decired to comply with Fashions For a center-front closing, the procedure ic tho ceue ae for Figs. 6B and 6P, the overlap and hem allowance being folded in before the draping of the front ig be~ gun, For variations at the neck line end amseye, refor to Fig. 5¢. With Tucks, Plaite, Shirring Sometimes triuming effects, such as tucke running vertically, either front or back, or crosswise shirring in front, or a plaited arrengeuont, ero desired. The Procedure is shown in tho various parte of Fic. 7. Fig. 7.--Detemtine on the nuuber, width, and position of the tucks desired. Then, ae in Pig. 5, meesure off and out the length of msterisl necessary. Bofore »cut ting off the width, add to tho front bust woesure not only the 6 inches auggested ‘but also the enount of material the tucks will require. Yor instance, if you wich to have four tucks, esch } inch ride, you will need } inch for eceh tuck, meking 2 inches on cach side or 4 inches additionel on the entire width, Mark the con- ter front end bust thresd line, place on the figure, end lay in’ the case dart. Tey ina 1-inch lengthwise fold through the conter ‘of the location you have de~ cided on for tho cluster of tucks, ususlly slanting it slightly toward the center front at the waist lino, Do not permit it to run into the ease dart. If you should like to dispose of tho dart nstericl at the shoulder, as in Fig. 6, do so dy Laying it in with this l-inch fold at the shoulder. With tho oxeeption of the trimming of the shoulder seam, which should have a l-inch allowance in thie case, proceed as with Figs. 53, 50, 5D, 58, and 5¥, incozporating the tuck fold until you are ready to baste. ~-Later, baste in your four Linch tucks, beginning with the one neerest the neck, and baste in the shoulder dart, permitting it to come undor the tuck nearest the shoulder so that it will not show. After the shoulder sem has been basted for final sewing, it nay be trinmed with the d-inch sean allowance. Figs, 72 snd 70.--The procedure for clusters of shirring and vortios) plain or tox Plaits is ‘the same as for tucks. In each case, ley in a fold representing the it the ease 2 pin a dart * the under. febrie from to be, rem snd proceed 2 the right, Hches below OUD of pin at the oufFicient rion, a 5?, the nt is be- DESIGHING BY DRAPING Bb “4 DESIGKING BY DRAPING ; anount of material necded to produce the desired effect and continue with the draping as if it vere not there. Whon you aro ready te baste, treat it in the de~ sired manner. In Fig. 7B, the shoulder dort ie included in the shirring, while in Fig. 70 it is arranged under the box plait so that it doos not chow. With Weck-Line Darts and Related Effects Fig. 8.--It is possible to diepose of fulness at the neck rather than in an under~ am or shoulder dart, To do this, propore and place the material on the figure, asin Fig. 5, end pin, excopt at tho shoulder. Snooth the material up from the under ami end across the front shoulder toward the neck, and thon place the pin at the shoulder, clashing for ease es shown. Making certain that the center-front fold is in correct position at the neck line, lay the surplus material into a dart, extending from tho nock lino tovard the apex of the bust, and pin. Then proceod as with Pigs. 5B, 50, 5D, 53, and 5F. Fige. 84, 85, end 8€.--Thic dart may later be developed as shirring, as in Fig. OA, into decorative darts, as in Fig. 8B, or as a box-fold ooch side of the center front, as in Fig. 9C, With Covl or Draped Neck Line Fig. 9.--If greator fulness ic desired noar the neck, as for » cowl nock line ‘or @ neck-line drope, cut » front bodice longth of material 2 inchos longer end 2 inches wider than for tho very plain bodico in ordor to allow for greater freedom of manipulation. Mark the bust throad line 2 inches lover than for the plain Bodies, fold in helf lengthwise, place on the figure with the bust thread line and center front in position, and pin at the conter front. Pin in the ease dart, which ie nooessary in this type of dreps. Turn over c center-front fold 1} inches at the top, taporing the fold to nothing toverd the bust thread line. Lay in two /B-inch darts radiating from the nock. atehing the bust thread lino carefully, smooth tho matericl here and pin at the under-erm soon line, also at the shoulder, Slash in at the armaoye for eace. Lay in ond pin a slanting 5/B-inch dart at the waist line near the under-am seam line end pin at tho socm line, Proceed as in Figs. 58, 5C, 5D, 55, ond 5¥, with the exooption of the neck lino, Figs, 9A and 98.--Aftor marking and cutting the neck line with a l-inch sean allowanco in front in thic caso, ths fulness laid into the darts mey be released and rearronged into 2 soft, high drape, as in Fig. 94, or allowed to drape down softly into a low cowl effect, ss in Fig, 90. ‘The waist-line dart may be developed as tvo omell parallel darts instead of one, 20DIGHS OF TwO-PIBCE TYPE Up to this point, you have been working with e double pioce of fabric folded at the center front end back and producing, when unfolded, a one-piece front and back, or, when cut, hoving its eentor front or back on the straight of the nateri- al. | ovevor, bodices msy have their fronts cut in two pieoes for various style effects. Inportant enong cuch dodices aro those which introduce fulness or sone fashion feature and require 2 conter-front soem, sll or part of which is cut on the bias. Other types are the surplice bodice and the bodice with one-side drape. With Center-Front Bias Sean Pig. 10.--¥or e bodice with fulness getherod into a center-front scam, meacuro off a length of material equal to the distance from 2 inches above the top shoulder % ING BY DRAPING ue with the tin the dew tring, while in en under the Figure, 8p from the | © the pin at center-front into a dart, "hen proceed 2, as in sido of the | e off ulder 16 DESIGNING BY DRAPING point to 5 inches below the normel walet Lino and as wido ac tho distance from the centor front et the bust Lino tc the undor-era sean Lino plue 3 inches, Cut om other pices-just like it, mark the buat thread lino of each, ond place the roverst sidoe of the fabric togothor. You may find it practical to baste thom togothor et the conter front, Place the material on the right side of the figure with one serosa tho bist and pin at tho under ams, Suooth the fabric toward the shoulder end pin ina shoulder dart, placing this nesrer the shoulder tip then usual for an evening-type dress. Slash in at the amscye for ease, Frou the under-am p: smooth the. fabrie straight down to the waist line, lay in e }-inch horizontal: fold, and pin. Ley. in four folds across tho center front deep enough at tho edge to insuro on cacy but close fit over tho diaphragu, Merk down aoroes those folds for a conbor-freut Limo and out, allowing for > inch soon, Fig. 104.--For the back, proceed as in Fig. 5B, but omit the oaso {eld for a omg h Be Gk, Gcieat or pincing ts ancieLine dort os in it, gongextrote tue Sigs fulness into a dart about 14 inches frov tho outer shoulder point 2nd pin, Con tinue as in Pig. 50, York the showldor darte and vaist-lino fold transfer the markings to the left sido, both back and front, Ropin all darts on both cides, pin togothor et the conter front, and replace back and front on the figure, Continue ac in vige. 5D, 55, and 5%. As thie lende itself woll to the ovoning dross thoue, nork for a low nock lino ani low arasoye, as in Vig, S¢, and cat with tho usual gen: allowance, Figs, 108 end 100,--In finiching, sew tho tyo centor-front. edgoa together and shirr, Ghirr the sido dort into the sido sosm, The shouldor darts, both back end front, ney also bo tronsferred into shirring, : Surplice Bodice Fig. 1l.--Yor a"surplice todice, decide, before outting off tho Length, avhothor You wish 2 nonsal wsist-line Todico or on ovorblouse, Yor 2 nomel waist-Line effect, add 6 inches to tho noasurement from top shoulder to veist line .befero cutting, Next, dotomsinc the auount of overlap desired. ‘fo the buct measurement from the center’ front to the under-orm seem, add the ueuel 3 inchos and then the amount for overlap, 3 inches having been ollowed here, Cut two idontieal pieces. Mark the bust thread Lino, and nezk 2 vorticel linc 3 inchos from oke edge on cach piece for-tho centor-front lino. Ley thea together with narkings corresponding end wrong sides facing, baste tho front edges tozether, and place on the figure vith contor-front norking and bust thresd line in correct position, Pin at the center-front bust linc and waist lino, pin in the aese dert, and then pin at the ander-ama bust thrond lino, | Pin in a shoulder dart as in Pigs. 6 and 64. At the centor front, vith the urpor one cbeut 3 vo the waist line and parollol to 4%, place three }-inch folds ebout 5/8 inch apart end pin, For 2 smooth effect st the waist line, smocth the naterial gontly toward the under-ami sean end dispose of the surplus motoriel ina dart running fron the woist lino at the under-er seat line toward the apex of tho bust and pin. Pin back the front vdge from the eide nock line to the top front fold, adjusting this aeccrding to tho depth of tho nock line desired. Procoed with tho back as in Fig. 53, and with tho tarking and cutting of the shoulder, amscye, and under- ars seams, asin Fig, 50. Out amey the rovers ot the front, ellowing } inch for seans, If tho materiel to be used is tho sane on each side, or, if a facing is to bo used, this revers need not be out avay but used ae tricuing. Mark all darts and seas before reuoving and trensfer to tho left side with the usual precou- tions, Untold the brek, separate the front secticns, ropin all darts, replace on vertical cdgo 4 inch boyond the oonter front of tho figure, Snooth the fabrie > unfold, and, \) \ casement Panes from the Bes. Cut one ce tho rovers = tocuthor et To with 6) h the fabri the shouldor en usual for eder-am pin,| : horizontal | at the edge) these folde 2 for a sm ¢ > the slight | Bin, Oon- | unfold, and | 41 darts on ront on the Foll to the ig. 5¢, and gothor and Both back -anhethor sist-line e before esurenont | then the j + pieces, > On cach sponding | figure nat the Bat thy 4b the perollol ord the ron the | -- Pin § justing | back ag ndor= DESIGNING BY DRAPLUG Wy 18 DASIGHING BY DRAPING the figure, vith the center-front markings together, and proceed as with Figs. 20. Si, end 5P, mazking the back neck line only. ark the ueist line es in Fig. 60 for an ovorblouse. : Figs. WA and L1B.--The finished bodice is a simple surplice in overblouse effect Fu orsithout revers, with the wsist-line folds atthe closing stitched on the outside along their edges, and both shoulder and a waist-Lino dart. With One-Side Drape Figs 12.--Up to thie point, the right end left eldes havo been similar in, design GA Git. If 2 one-sided drape is desired, measure off and apply tho back es in Figs 52. Thon mensuze off a singlo thickness of material as vide as the distence fron tho conter front to tho under-am seam line plus 5 inches. Moasure the Length ac for Pig. 5. Mark off 2 inches vertically for a eenter-front Line, mark therbusteline three, epply to the left side of tho figure, and proceed as in Figs. 5, 54, 5B, and 50, Meeauro off the seme length for the right sido, but adé 9 inches to the vidth monsuremont from the center front to the under-am seam janes Mark the center front 6 inchos from one vertical edge, mark the bust-line thread, place tho msterial in position on the right sido, and proceed as in Figs. 5, 5k. 5B, and 50. Pig. 12h.--To form 2 jebot drape, ley in and pin four folde fairly close toge:hos Tis It inches to the left of tho conter front of the figure at the neck. | lark the nosk line at the left side to ueot the top of the folds. Mark off a curved line on the drape from the bust line to the waist line. Broceed. as in Pigae 5D, 5B, ond SF Fig, 12B.--In the finished todice, the jobot effect, whish is eut in one with the Tight Tront, mey be shirred several tines. The left side will Me snooth end ox- tend 2 inchos beyond the center front undernozth. #0 BODICES With Shoulder Sean he Kimono bodice is of several typos, but the eimplest one to drape has s seam down the top of tho shoulder and the entire upper arm, as well as an underarm Soom continuous with the under-ane alecve scan. For the back of suck s bodice, neesure off a length as in 5B, but for its width, meacure from tho center- Deck neck line aeross tho choulder and down ono am to the desired sleevo length, edd 2 inches for manipulation, and weasure off trice this width and oud. In order to be able to use the fabric double, front and back, the sleeve length is ‘imited to vhat oan be obtained fron the ususl 39-inch febric width. Fold in half lengthrise and apply to the right side of the figure es in Fig. 53, pinning in place to tho shoulder atrop. In this cace, it vill be advisable to make the case dart $ inch in dopth ‘or tho avorege figure because « kinono wsist must be sonewhat asier in fit then any other. Fig, 3.--For the front, proceed sc in Fig. 5, but noasuro tho width fron the Genterefront neck line across the shoulder and down the arm tc the desired length Of the cleeve, and add 2 inches, ?roceo’ with the drapo os in Fig. 5, 5A, and 5B, with tho excoption of the under-am sean trinming, loying ins }-inch ease dart 3 to 5 inches fron the conter front. After pinning the back and front to- gether at the shoulder seam line, slach for easo at the neck line and continue the pinning on the sexe elanting Line ee the shoulder seaz to the outer edge of es in Fig. 66 louse effect, Stched on the ar in design ¢ beck as in istance ‘oasuro the line, mark / coed as in fo, but ade ram seam } s¢ Dust-line | 8 in Figs, | i ' se together, | eck. Mark | curved | Figs. 5D, ie with the and ex- 5a, and os CON it “7 a » = Gro DESIGHING BY DAAPING Wy 20 DESIGI NG BY DRAPING the ueterial, The person being droped will facilitate the draping of this sleev: if sho placos hor right hand at tho waist lino end then, vithout changing thé angle of tho upper am at the shoulder, swinga the hend out on a straight lin with it, Hote that the back will extend about } inch highor than the front edge Cut up at the under-am seen te within 2 inches of the aniseye. If a wider, looser sloeve is preferred, thon out up te vithin 3 or 4 inches of the amsoye, necessitating the shoulier dert, as in Fig. 64, rather then the under-am dort, Pin the front ani the back together alon; the under arn ond continue pinning out Ya the odge of the materiel on « lino parallel to the pinned shouléor linc. trim away superfluous usterial, sllowing suple secns, mark carefully, rouove froi the figure, end transfer the nerkings to the left side. Unfold the mstorial, re- pin the darts ond seam lines, and replece on the figure. Figs 1ks--Place 0 tape around the neck Line, mark the right side, end trin; eroumd tho weit linc, mark the right side, and trin; and around tho upper ara the depth of the desired sleeve length. If norely a cap effoot is wanted, the tape should slant in on alnoct verticel line; but if 2 longer sloove is wanted, the tape should bo horizontal. Draw the neteriel as evenly as possible under the tape and mark along the lover edge. Trim avey the excess natericl below the tape, allowing for a scan, Renove the bodice ani transfer the now markings to the left side. Tras up ali markings and trim with }-inch sean allowance. Fig. 138.--Tor a simple, youthful offect, s cluster of tucks or darts ney be ploced up from the lower sleeve odge exch side of, and equidistant frou, the shoulder sean. Tig. 130,--If a nore elaborate kinono usist is desired with tucke, plaits, or aiirring, the uateriel for then usy be provided as in Fig. 7 bofore you procesd with the drapine of the sleeve, with due sllovence uade for thon when measuring the width of the uaterial before cutting, Hero, the drop-skoulder sleeve is sho ani the fulness translated into shirring at the shoulder and vaist line. A 5-in slash at the conter-back neck lino will givo a sufficient neck opening for renov— ing the gement, or the neck line msy be cut low 2a in Fig. 5¢. also, a center- Yack or center-front closiny asy bo introduced with provieion for it uade at the outset of the draping process, as in Fig. 65 greater longth than a double thioless of 39-inch fe¥rie vill cut, such aso half, throe-querter, or fill-length cleevo, it will be necessary to vork with a single thielness of fabric for both tho richt front end the back ond then cut a left front and back from these. This will neocesitate sesm dom tho center front and beck. Or, if the texture and pettern of the material vill pomit, it moy be used ersstise, being folded ond dreped as in Figs. 13 ond 13a. If, ine Kinono bodice with chouldor secu, it is desired to have «= sloove of With Bios Bnok end Streight Front ‘The Kimono cloove bodice with straicht thread front, bias seu at the center back, endo cleeve which has only on undor-em soam, is a type that is often used for necligece es well as for dresses cnd costs, In thie instance, the draping of it ia shom with = eurplice front. Yowevor, e:plein front without 9 eenter~frout seas roy be dreped inc similar nenner by placing the folded edge of the material down the oonter front for 2 short sloeve or by using tho material crossrise for 2 long sloovo, In cither of these instences, you will be rozking vith double folded naterial throughout, In the ease of the eurplics, lonr-sleaved effect shown here, DESIGNING BY DRAPING PN & e, allowing left side. y be placed ter back, sed for of it -er-front terial ise for a je folded va here, a1 22 DESIGUING BY DRaPING only a aingle thickness is nooded to drape the right side beceuso the right front ané beck and left front and tack are nocesserily separate and it is simpler not to handle so mich materisl in one operetion. J4.--Neasure off a single longth of 36- or 39-inch wotericl equal to the di: {ads Tron the vedet Line et the center front up over the shoulder at thenmkline ond down to the weiet line st the center back, add 4 inches, and cut straight aoross. In this case, place one horizontal edge 2 inches below the front veiet line, measure up for the position of the bust thread lins, ond mark atreight across. At this seme ond and 4 inches from ths sclvsge, mark up for the center front to the approxinate contor-front point at the nock line. Place the material on the figure with the contr front and tho bust throsd lino in eorrect position and pin, allowing the oxtre material to f=11 over the shoulder and arm for con~ yonienes, Fro 3 to 5 inches from ihe conter front, lay in a 4-inch cose fold tc 3 inches above the bust threai linc. Susoth the aatoricl across the bust to the under-ar. soca ond just bolow the throcd lino plece « pin at this point. after smothing tho material across at the vaist line,lay in :. short }-inch dart at the waist line, elanting up tovard the epox of the bust. Pin at the undor-amm senm. Usking cortein thet the conter-front mark is in position at the neck Lins, sucoth the metorial out over the shoulder ond place ® pin. To determine the slant of the am outward from the body, have the person boing draped place her right hand at the waist line,and thon, without changing the angle of the uppor ara, put out her hand. Tho bust thread lino chould then fell on the vriet ot the top of the thun. Fig. 144,--Nointaining this slont of the am: and this position of the bust thread Ting ag vell as the center-front line at the neak, suooth the uaterial acrosa the shoulder around to the back. ?in the beck to the front at the under-arm seou line up fron the waist line to within 3 inchee of the amiscye. Do not reuove the orig~ inel bust line pir for the prosent if it should come above thi point. ext, snooth tho natorial ccrogs the back stove the waist line and then, 3 inches from the conter back, lay ine 4-inch opse dart persllel to the center back, doing this very carefully for the woteriel is on the diss hore. Pig. 143,--xt the shoulder end et the back, slech the matericl et the nook line. You will find that a 3- to finch dert, teporing toward the ar: ond placad and pinned along the top shoulder-seam line, will dispose of the superfluous material here. Mark for the centor beck and cut } inch to the left of the earking fur the geam allowance. Slash the natoricl 1 inch Soyond the under-ams son pins. Place a tepe eround the neck linc, mark, end out avay the oxtre uaterial et the neck froz. the shoulder to the center bai Place 2 tape around the waist line, uazk, and cut avey, tho extre uoterial. Mark ss for e sleove,plecing the pine throuch tho beck cnd front at the under-aru sean line, beginning st the pin 3 inches belov the amscye on thc under-ens sean, Keeping the tust thread line in position at the vrist, end running the pine pore! lol to the sisnt of the top of the orm, At the rriet, fold beck end pin the nate- rinl to the desired sleeve Lensth, bending the elton to make certain the sleove ie long cnough et the back, Fig. 140,--at the nock, fold back e revers from the chouldor to the bust end pin. Trin the revers from the nock line et the shoulder to the outer odge to obtein any slant Fashion denends. If yox wish a surplico closing rithout revers, fold back the usterial from the shouldor to tho weist linc and pin before cutting eway the oxtre natoriel with seax cllowance. Cut anay the extra material slong the under- ai sleeve seen. Ife sloove thet is caught in at the wrist is preferred, place a DESIGNING BY DRAPING slor not 1 to the dis! the neckline streight vont veist streight r the contor leeve ic and pin, tain ony 1d back may the 2h DESIGNING BY DRAPING tape cround the wrist, arrange the sleeve fulness with more of it at the top of| the em than underneath, ond, allowing for bending of the elbow, mark elong tho lower edge of the tape, ond cut cway tho extra meterial with seam alloranco. Rettove from the figure, mark ond crim all svem lines, mark the darts carefully,| trensfor to the materiel for the 1sft side, and cut, taking tho usual procautions.| Figs, 14D end B.-~Tho surplice bodice in double-broasted offect vith revers, slucve fulness caught into c straight bend at the wrist, soam down tho center bacl end under arn, ond a dert over the shoulder aad at the usist Lino, when completed, will oppesr cs shorn here. Fig. 147.--Then completed, the surplice bodice without rovers, vith loose monk’ sleeve, a dart over tho shoulder and at the veist line, scams at the under ara and down the canter back, will eppoar es shown hero. It is advissblo not to ueke the sleeve olose-fitting at this stage. Later, after you have learned more about draping cleoves, you will be able to do co. However, if you find, efter cutting, that you lave made it too close for comfort or that the aodel held her em too lov, onso nay be obteined by mows of a snall dienond- shaped gusaot about 5 inches lone snd 3 inches wide, this being inserted at the araseye, lengthwise with the under-ani seen. J With gtroight Back and Bias Front ne entire drsping process may be roversed if it is preferrod to haye the thread runbing straight dorn the center beck instead of on tho bias ania bise front is desirable. If short slecves are satisfactory, 39-inch uaterial folded lengthwise will eorve, but if long sleoves ero wanted, it will be necessary to use the usteriel crosswise or to have = sent dom the center back. Proceed as with the procedine drape, vorking toward the Sront and repeating oll processes as beforc in reverso order. Instend of the bust thread line at the front, you will have the thread line at the tack, rhich vill roscl. the beck wrist instead of the wrist at the thucb. At tho front, you aay thon develop a bies center-front sosm or a surplice closing without revers. Revers wey also bo utilized, but they vill, of neceacity, be different in shape. Yor » surplice closing, this rovoree uethod is reccruended. si 8 Before attempting to drapo a sleeve, have the bodice into which the sleeve is to be fitted fimily bested at oll ome and the ercoye carefully end accurately out ond narked for sesit ellovence. Also, fold in ani pin the ease darts, back and front, ag moll ee all othor Pulnose st that tho bodice cannot chitt out of posi~ tion a8 you davolop the eleeve. It ic woll to drape tho slecve in muslin firet ond thon ue this as 2 pattorn for tho finel fabric. Plain get-In Sleoves Fig. 15.--In order to arapo a plein sleove with an under-am: seax, supply a ein~ gle Leneth of materiel long enough te reach from 2 inchoe above tho tip of the shoulder to 2 inches below the wrist, mecsuring clong the outor side of the am ovor the elbow. To dotemsins the width, measure around the upper am: at the widest part, add from $ to 1} inches for an eeae fold, depending on the material, ané5 inchos for manipalstion and under-nri sous allowance. Mark with besting- DESIGIING BY DRAPIIG 25, tthe top of] Fk along the oranoo. = tho longthviee center. By folding throuch tho center, right sides to- ‘ley in o 3/B-inch lengthwise fold and pin with slantwise pins pleced feinly Together to prevent it frou drening. esrofully, eeautions, sz from the widest part of the uppor em up to the tip of the shoulder ond 2 isches. Thon measure this distsnce, about 9 inches for the averoge figure, = lengthrise edge of the cut material snd uark across the sleeve soction ‘a crosswise thread. Place the material on the right am co thet the icttlc etce of the fold lies directly dovn tho top contor of the upper orm and wise thread is across the widest part of the upper am, permitting the ‘Zo extend 2 inches above the stouldor tip, ond pin at tho shouldor Keoping tho materiel in this position, draw it around tho sm, bring rend lines together, ond pin close to the ani in line with the Geter-er= com of the bodice. If the posture of the figure has made it necessary 2 under-am bodice scan farther back than for s norel figure, then the the eloeve may bo slightly fervard. center back : completed, jose monk: e under arr ater, after + Hoover, | Hie. Next, keeping the erocowise thread horisontel all the vay up, pin the ort or that | cieere =o the bodice at each sido of the upper am. Hoasuro tho size of the wrist Ll diemond~| ef sise= pine indicating onc-hol? this neasureuent on each side of the marked rod at the | iam “terial at tho epprexinete wriet line. With the em held avay from ; pin the sleeve arcuné tho wrist with these pins ueoting and in line with ‘r top of the thuzb and the center line slanting toward the back. Then, teriol held stoothly around the arm, plece pins fairly close together sleove under the any from ermseyo to above the elbov, keeping the eross~ line in position end «lashing for ease where necessary. he thread, front ie longthwise to use the Pin the naterial carefully eround the ambole of the bodice, slashing cory. At the back of the em ai the elbow, lay in and pin « t-inch » it toward tho elbow. ing oll Gut away the euperflucus naterial arount the amholo, leaving at lesst et the sect: allowanee end fo: later possible adjustuont. With the ara held ck wriat =, eontimo pinning frou the eltov to the wrist, readjusting the wrist pin up ope bins [Mliemaee: if necessary but not changing the éstanse each side of the center. also be ut avay the exeess uaterial at the under ami, Place a tape around end pin and mark along tho lover edge of tho tape while the elbow is that the outer eide will be long enough for comfort ae well as good ap~ Csrefully, before ruuoving, uark tho sleeve Line at the shoulder to ‘th the bodice axshole soa line, elso nark for corrosponding = surplice eve ia to sn both sleeves and bodice to indicate tho position of the sleeve in the ately cut York tho aleove seam end clbow dart end corresponding notches both beck and below the clbow. Renove sll pins and reuovo the sleeve from the fig- of posi~ up the marking, and trin, allowing 4 inch for soans. lin firet 152.--Aftor basting, in order to insuro a neat fit st the wrist, place o Sail cert at the back of the wrist toporing toward the olbow. The ease dart be cased into the bodise aruhole with the fulness distributed ot =i y cof the top end at the sides so that it lies suooth when finished. If ly a sine mave boon vorking in muslin ani find thet the snount slowed for the ense ip of the ‘too grent and your sleove is too wide the entire length, thie superflu- fthe am the erial may bo taken out by running e tuck slong the uarked center line. If So scant, ‘then ent elong thic line and insert the necessary additional ath overly. w 6 DESIGNING BY DRAPLNG Fig. 15%.--This right sleeve, if correctly draped and fitted in mslin, ney bi eed ac a pattern for both right and left sleeves in the finel fabric. If drape in finel fabric, use it as 2 pattern for the loft sleeve. The muslin model vitl under-am acem tay algo be marked for a three-quartor, half, short, or cap sleeve Pulness Weld in Cuff Fig. 16.--For 2 sleevo that is full delow the elbow, add greater longth ani greater width to the smount of materiel suggested in Pig. 15, approximately inches having been added to the length end 5 inches to tho width jin this case Proceed as in Fig. 15. From the lower edge, fold in two derts sbout 1} inche deep, each with the folded odges perallel to the edge of the ease fold end taper ing up elmost to the cross thread linc. Fig. 164,--Procced as with Figs. 154, 158, and 15C, but omit the elbow dart in} this instance. Figs 16B.--Remove both the ense-fold and the dart pino to sbove the elbow end pleco e tape cround the wrist. Dron the material up over the tape, arranging the fulness as evenly ac possible with « smooth speco 1 inch each side of the under fam soon, leo, puff up the sleeve over the tape at the back of the wrist te eronte ths dovired begginess. Pin to tho tape ell around before marking along! the lower edge. Cut with seem ellowaes, Merk, noteh, remove the sleeve, truo| up, ond trin. Trenefer as expleined for Fig. 157. is Pig. 160.--This draping will result in e clogve having on underarm: soa, a plain’ Top, and fulness below the elbor shirred into 2 1-inch wide band et the wrist. Flered Sleeve Fig. 16D.--For 2 set-in, flared sloove, proceed as with Figs. 16 and 164. after Fomoving the dart oni the esec-fold pine to above the olbow, fold beck and pin the lover edge of the cleeve to the desired length, bending the elbow to make certain that the sleove will be long enough et the back of the ara. True up the marking, notch, trim vith seam ellovance, end remove the sloeve, Trensfer os oxplaine for Pig. 157. This flared, or monk, sleeve showld be finished with e wide facing. Fig. 168. Tulness at Top Fig. 17.--The procedure for drezing tho set-in sleeve vith fulnosa at the top, or [eecoomatton cloevo, is somewhat similar to that euployed for « plein sot-in sleeve, but, vhen cutting, add from 1 to 2 inches in addition to the longth of the materiel ond frou 2 tc 3 inches in addition to the width. This vories with the amount of fulness you mish tho sleevo to have at the top, Continue as, with Fig. 15, but, before pinning at the under eri and shoulder, lay in two }-inch darte each side of the ease fold, close to ani parellel to it, and extending ovm toward the elbow. Noxt, pin the edges together at tho undex~arm seam line ab the amscye, making certain that the crosstise thread line in ebsolutely hori- zontel. In order to keep the crosswise thread horizontcl to the top, fold down right across ell provious darts, a }-inch crosswise dart across the upper arm, tapering it out at cach side toverd the armhole seam. ‘Thie will also teke care of tho fulness nocessary for this type of sleeve. It will vary in depth with the depth and nunbor of vertical darts employed. Continue with tho draping os for Figs. 154, 158, 15C, 15D, 158, end 157. DESIGNING BY DRAPING roxinately 2 n this osse he wrist to rking along leeve, true =, 0 plain 2 wrist. 64. after K and pin ov to make rue up the rensfer as 70 S-inch extending 28 DESLGRING BY DRAPING Pig. UA.--The fulneas at the top nay be shirred into the armhole overly scros She Eop to produce this leg-c-mutton eleevo. Pig. 17B.--For 2 sleeve vith a higher puff, follow the uethod given in He. Ui Gutvuske the darts mich shorter end somewhat deeper at the top. Alco, place th crosswise dart below the lengthwiso darte and unke it proportionately docper. short sleeve is here chown, but the sane top say be employed for a long sleovd Fig. 170.--Here, again, the fulness is shirred across the top before the sleeve 3 Seed imto tho bodice amholo. It is advisable that naterial of sufficient bod be used to make the puff stand up. Sleeve With Extended Darte at Top Fig. 18.--By oxperinonting, innmorsble soart and interesting effects can by aihisied, a8, for inotance, the cleove vith extended darts suggested by tho square shouldered silhouette, for this, proceed as with Fig. 15,thon pin in two 1,-ino} graduated darts about } inch cach sido of tho ease fold at the top with their pis {ines parallel to it and taporing out just beyond the crosswise thread Lines Com tinue as with Figs. 154, 158, 15C, 15D, and 158. Mark the upper end of thes darts for the desired lino with seam allowance before outting. With the oxceptio of the top pins, the other dart pins noy be renoved before marking ond trimming with seem allowance. Notch, reuove the sleove, and then transfer as explained fo ig. 157. Pig. 18k.--The upper edges of these darts should be sewed together before tha sleeve i: "3 seved into the armhole, The material of the ease dart chould be eased in around the emseye as usual. With Pulness Entire Longth Hig. 19.--For 9 rether full cloeve thet has fulness its entire length, determing The amount of tho fulness desired in the alecve width. Also, add en additional 4) inches to the usual length. Before applying to the am, lay in the ease fold ond} tno & to 1-inch folds each side of the case fold end es close as possible to it pithsut overlapping it. Then proceod sc in Fig.15, but before pinning at the tip of the shoulder, fold down ani pin in c tepering dart sufficient naterial ecross the upper am above the erossvise thread line to pemit the thread to run hori- zontel up to the top of the am. Proceed es in Figs. 154 and 153, onit the elbow dart, but ley in a crosswise $- to 1j-inch tuck all around half may between the elbow eni the wrist. Then progesd es in Figs. 150 and 165. Fig. 19As--Soft materials as well as cheer ones are favored for this type of sinwve, Botore sesing the sleeve into the amhole, shirr the material at the up- per sloove, having the chirring oxtend an equal dictence each side of the top Qenter. The ehirring nay extend ell around et the wrist except for a suooth space of 1 inch eech side of the under-am sean ani the fulness nay be confined into e straight band. Figs 19B.--4 capo-like sleeve is draped in the sano manner as for Fig. 194, with the Enpering erosovise dart near the top. After conploting the amhole line, re- nove ll dart pins except the upper ones confining the folds at the shoulder and fold back and pin the lower edge of tho sloeve to the desired length before cut- ting. The upper folds may be retained when sewing the sleeve into the amholew DESIGHING BY DRAPING venly acro: min Fig, 17] se sleove 4 ficient bo the top 2 anooth ; confined 194, with line, re- alder and fore cut amhole, 30 DESIGUING EY DRAPING Boglan Sleeve Hige. 20 and 20A.-As 8 preparation for the draping of tho raglan clecve, m Gertain that the bodies is carofully and accurately draped, fitted, bested, has its onse darts, 5/8 inch deep in this cess, pinned in. A plein bodice with showldor dart is used here, but en under-arm dart fore hicher armhole my, used ss voll ec any other more eloborate type of bodice, such os in Figs. 7A, Ba, 88, 8C, 9A, 9B, 11A, and 128, provided all fulness is folded in and pint dom, ‘lark’on it the line deeied for the raglan frou the neck line to tho unde ara lino, both back end front. Also, moke sure that the centor-frout, conter-bacl and bustethrond Linee are marked. Pig. 20B.--For the raglan sleeve, monsure off a single longth of material ea Go tho Cigtance from the neck Lino of the shoulder sean down aver the shoul and the elbor to the wrist ani add 6 inches for manipulation and seams. Aotemine the width, moagure across the showlder dovn to tho lowest point of 11 marked armseye, back and front, ond 243 6 inches to ello for the case fold the undcr-am seam edjuctment. Pin a heineh ease dort gown the coutor lengthwiee. Measure fron the nook 1i over tho shoulder to the videst part of the upper am, add ? inches, and mo: ‘this distance on tho fabric for the crossvise thread lines Place the natorial the figure with tho upper edge extending 2 inches above the neck line and ti visible odge of tho vase fold runing directly over the right shoulder seam the bodies and atraight dorn over the top of the am. At the shoulder seam Lin pin ct the neck line ond the tip of the choulder. Sucoth the ezossviae thro Lino over the uppor arm and pin tho material togothor close to the ami at thi Point in Line with the under-amu seom of the bedico. Fig. 200.--Contimio the pinning up fron this point to the emscye at the undor ai Seay line, slashing fron the beok end front to vithin 1 inch of the narked ragl: line on the bodice. Yorking up frou the under-an: sean line, pin the sleeve se tion flat to the todice fron the under amiscye up to the ourve, both beck an! front, eontinuins the slashing where necessary+ Fig. 20D.--Fold back the naterial end carefully pin the cleuve to the bodice elon Fie arked reclan seem: lino at the front, beginning et tho under-ers soan line &1 qorkine up toward the neck line. Nort, do the see at tho back, cleo beginning = the ander-am sean line, As you approach the nook lino at the back, you will fint thet some excess material here will have to be disposod of, Ley it into o dart ai tho shoulder in line with tho coce dart hero and tnpering out at the choulder tip Trim away the material slong the pinned reglan line, leaving }-inch scam allo gnee. ‘Yithout reueving the first pine ot tho under amusoye, pin frou tho low ree Jn point at the under-ars eon out to the pin at the erocewise thread Line of th sloeve, Thon renove the first pins. If 9 close-fitted sloove is desire?, procecd with the pinning of tho lover p: of the eloove ce in Figs. 15C, 15D, and possibly 15. If a loose sleeve is pro ferred, continue as rith Fizs. 164 end 16B or 16D. Henove the pina of the eese fold ond ehouldor dort and ropin e dart at the bodice! shoulder lino, taking up at the neck line the anount of both case fold and sddi- tinnel dart and tapering the upw dart out to the shoulder tip. Mark and trin the sleeve at tho neck line. Before rocoving the pins, mark tho sean lines end the) neeeseery notehos carefully. With the sleeve reuoved, cut avay tho exooss right shoulder bodice section, sllowing 4 inch for seams, Cut the left sleove, ust the right as a pattern, and mark and cut the left bodice like the right. DESISUING BY DRaPINO 3h 32 DESIGNIN: BY DRAPING Figo, 208 and 20F.--A close-fitiing razlen sleovo ic gonorelly used in dresse: Boforo basting the clocvo te tho bodicu, the bodice shoulder dart may bo tran: Jabed inte shirring for 2 soft offect, Sy relossing tho ease fold of tho cleo and the ease darts of tho bodies, you will find thet the gaint has t neoossary under-era case for a graceful effect as well as for wovonent, 1 flared raglan is good for coats ond negligees es woll as for dresses. Doluan Sleeve Fige 21 and 21A,-~Pashion rogularly revives tho doimon as o dross sleove, but ii Te used for nerligese ond wraps alnost every season, Prepare the bodice as fo Fige, 20 and 204, but uork on it the desired doinan line, doth beck and front, This is umelly quite lov ot the under-am seam and wey extend ae for up on thi shoulder ac desired and toko any angle, clant, or curve that Fashion dictates, typienl effect in shown hore. Fig. 218.--Zor length, moesure the distence from the mark et tho shoulder sean, Joes over tho shoulder ond elbow to tho wrist and ndd 4 inches, Yor width, meas uro the distanes over the shoulder fron the lowest nmmholo mark on the front t ‘the ono on the back end add 5 inches, that ia, 1 inch for the cage fold and abou 2 inches at onch odge for uanipulation and cleevo seax. Fold in and pin a $-ind ees fold down the oonter longthviae, Mvasure from the mark st the shoulder to the widest part of the uppor em, add } inch for seam allowsneo, ond mark seros for tho crosswise throed linc. Place the matorial on the right am with th center in lino with tho bodice shoulder senu and the upper edge $ inch boyond th merked line, Pin atthe outer shoulder point, Unpin the ease fold at thet shoulder atovo this point, suonth tho materiel down, and pin at tho uatked Ling) on tho ohsulder seam. Smooth tho material easily over tho am at the crosswise thread Lino and pin the pack and fromt tocethor at this point on the sloeve close to the sm, Moesure the width of the wrist, nessure off half this distance each side of tho oontor of tho cloove febric, and pix those pointy togsthor at tho wrist just inside tho top of tho thusb, Holdin: tho arm out, pin the sloove together fron the upper am pin to tho wrist pin, At the bodice front horizentel lino,a vortioal }-inoh dart ney be placed that may lator bo chizrod, It ney bo onitted, if preferred. Pig. 210,--Fold back the cloove natoriel at the marked line on the bodice, beck and Tront, and pin so thet tho edgo Lice along this uark, arranging 0 nest miter at the comers, Trin anay the oxtre naterial, leaving } inch for 2 seen. If e éress sleeve vith close fit at tho lover am: is vented, pin th sleeve to- gevhor ona lino frou tho lowor bodies line to 2 point betwoon the olbov and wrict, Do this without renoving tho orizinel pins closo te the om, If « wider effect is proferred at the wrist, as for costs or nocligeos, then run the pins ina straight line fron the lower bodice line to the ond cf the sleeve, doing this without ronoving the originel pins, Gut away the superfluous ustericl, Reuove the orisinal pins close to thu ara as woll as the oaso~fold pins, To finish fora cloco fit at tho wrist, proceed es with Figs, 15D and 159, and for the Joosor sleeve, az for Fig. 16D. Rig. 2Ds--When eppliod to tho bndicw, the deluan vith the closs-fitting lower ‘am offect ond fulnose at tho front cose sosn will appoar as shown horo. Pig. Z12,--Tho dolman having » loose lower are snd sot in sucthly all around Will “apyocr us shown hero. 3B DESIGNING BY DRAPING d and about in a d~inch) shoulder to serk neross with the Doyond the dat the) erked line nd pin the Measure ios, beck neat miter Leove to- elbow and fe wider the pins 5) doing nateriel, L153, and. 2g lower 1 around 34 DESIGNING BY DRAYING Dolnon Variation Figs. 22 ond 224.--Bvoning aressca and cuner frocks nay ave a band sleove on t @olaan Order, Hark the back and front, runing the lines te the undor-am se: without equering th Big. 22i,--Mearure for the dosired width an length and deuble the width befo: cutting, Ouit the cage fold, old in half crosswise end place tho. lensthwics eonter in line with thy choulder som go that ths out edgee aro § inch boyond +1 marked line, Pin down tho fromt ond back te the under-ana seu: and thon out slightly upward toward tho folded edge, If 1sco or othor hend trimming is usnd, single thickness vill suffice, Transfer for tho left cLoova. Pig, 220,--he bend sleove, whon finished, will appear a3 chown here, A low not Tine nay bo marked if on evoning bodico is desired. Sleove for Cap-Shoulder Bodice Big. Q3.--Then clooves are added to o cap-showlder bodice, the bodice must firs! Qe carefully out. Prepare ac for Tiga, 5, 5h, and 5B, ig. 15 for tho shoulder sean, and then Tigs. 5C, 5D, 52, end 5F, but instead of oubting the embole all around, ont only the under araseye and then cut out so that when viowed from th side tho edge of tho oxp in horizontal, for the sleeve length, noasure fro the odgo of the oap at the upger ara to the desired longth of sleovo, add inches, and cut. In thie case, a shorter~than-elbow length ie uscd. Yor width,} ira cleovo with fulness ic desired, moceuro as for Fig. 19, sllowing for the| fulnoss, in this case o l}-inch fold each sido of tho onge fold being sufficient Fig. 25k.--Hark forthe crosswise thread line, pin in the folds, place on the am, ‘and pin to the enp Line with the usual prooautions, Figs Q3B.--Pin-slong the armsoye and stroight down the sleovo in line with ‘the| Gmdef-ara soan, Place « tepo around the ara, uark for length, ond trin, True! up the nerking, notch, remove, and transfer to the left sleove. Fiz. 230,--The fulnoes usy bo shirred clonz the exp section and the slecvo sot in co es to fit sucoth ob the undor araseya. * Sloove for Drop-Shoulder Bodice Fig. 24,-chen proparin= a sloove for 2 drop~shouldor tedice, as for instance, « Eodel Tiko Fig. 13C, with » showldor soa and c low amsoye, neasure off « length oquel to. the dictanes frou the ond of the shouldor som over tho elbow to the wrist plueJ inches, Yor width, noasuro tho distance around the amholo end ad? 2 inchos, dark with bacting-ctitohos down the longthwise couter, alco tho cross- wWieo threcd lino, Ouit the ease fold, it not being necessery because the armhole Ye low ond vido end the cleove eppliod flat, Pleo the materiel on tho right am: with the centor thresd in line with the shoulder somz, Fold back } inch her and pin te the aruholo $ inch boyond the edge. Contime pinning the folded edge down the front and down tho beck of the todice, increasing the width of the turn te keop the throed line horizontal across the ara, Place a pin at the wrist as in Fig, 154, From the undor-arm sean, pin the slevve togethor straight dow to tho lover edge. Proccud with the lower part and continue with the alooves as ex- plained for Pig. 163. Fig, 24he--Any dosired length or finish ney bo introdueed, tut in this cage the fulnose ab the wrist ic held into l-inch band cuff, DESTGHING BY DRAPTUG 35 Leeve on thi der-am se! Aidth befor in the ana, o with the rin, True sleeve sot stance, a ease the Plered Lower Sleeve Ben-If it is desired to obtain a closo-fitting uppor sloove,

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