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    Lacing and Stitching For Leathercraft PDF

    Uploaded by

    Orlando Vallejo

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
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    of 20
    10 Different Lacing & Stitching Techniques ur Qo veer D2 &@ @]@ Oo @ NTRODUCTION? When early man first began using the skins of animals, he probably just used them as blankets or shawl-poncho type clothing. But as he began to find more uses for leather and skins, he needed ways to hold the skins together. Simple thongs were used at first, to tie pieces together. Later, holes with laces were utilized, much as our shoe laces. Today lacing can be as simple as that same shoe lacing or as intricate as a multi-thong applique done on leather just for show. Like early man, we use most of the leather articles we create, so they must be durable, But today, we also insist that our creations be appealing to the eye as well. In this book | hope to show you a few types of lacing techniques which are both practical and attractive. There are a few things to remember when doing any type of lacing. Always lace with the outside of the project facing you. This is the side which everyone will see, so you want the lacing to be attractive on this side. Your lacing should be smooth and even throughout the entire project. Pull each stitch snug, not tight, and use the same tension on each stitch so they are all even. The lacing or stitching can either make or break a project. Lace usually has a front and a back side to it. Never twist the lace! Always keep the front side of the lace out on the outside of the project, I have a little trick | use for this when I’m using a flat needle. | call it speed lacing and it can be used for any lacing technique. After | push the needle through a hole or slit, | pull through four or five inches of lace, without turning loose of the needle, and then | stick the needle through the next hole or under the next stitch, whatever the next step is. The flat needle will keep the lace from twisting while you pull it through the last hole, and your hands are free. This saves time when you are working with ‘a long piece of lace. You don’t have to run the lace through your fingers before every stitch to make sure it’s not twisted or fumble with the needle while you're pulling the lace through the hole. There is a lacing technique suited to every purpose. In deciding which technique to use, several things should be considered; such as the size of the project and the stress which the seams of this project will receive. Generally the smaller projects, coin purses, billfolds, checkbooks, clutches, etc., will need 3/32” wide lace. Larger projects, handbags, holsters, bowling bags, attaches, need lace which is 1/8” in width. Wider laces are usually used for buckstitching. Also the more intricate, or the more times the lace crosses the seam, the stronger the seam will be. But these rules of thumb are not cut in stone. | have seen some nice work with 3/16” florentine lace, double loop laced through 1/8" slits; and buckstitching, using 5/32” buckstitch lace and straight slits will hold even the heaviest leather together, So when deciding which lace and lacing technique is best suited for your project, just make sure it is strong enough for the job, then use your imagination and the instructions in this book to guide you. POA OOOO gg O OSLO U ees ese S Sen Sy: a eeye AL @ 2 @ @ @ @ @ @e@ @ @ CONTENTS PUNCHING LACING HOLES Lacing Nippers .......... 4-in-1 Round Hole Punch Overstitch Wheels : Mini Punch ... Rotary Punch . THREADING THE NEEDLES Two Prong Needle Hook and Eye Needle Life Eye Needle ¢ SPLICING Cement Splicing Dry Splicing en e=. Splicing on a Single Thickness .................. 8 LACING TECHNIQUES The Whipstitch The Running Stitch ...... The Buckstitch-Angled Slits The Buckstitch-Straight Slits 1 Single Loop Lacing .... 11 Double Loop Lacing . 12 Triple Loop Lacing . 14 Saddle Stitching ... 15 Round Braid or Mexican Basketweave 16 Double Loop Two-Tone Lacing . Applique Lacing 907 Tand osha Oar Badan ed Yansjerte re! ‘A igs vasa PUNCHING LACING HOLES Before you can begin lacing, you have to punch precisely spaced lacing holes or slits in the leather. Thore aro THONGING CHISELS ll ui bww Thonging Chisels are so called because they look like small chisels. They punch lacing slits instead of round holes. ‘These chisels come in single-prong, three-prong, four-prong, six-prong and eightprong punches and they punch slits ranging in size from 1/16” to 5/32” in width, They al: come in angled chisels for slanted lacing slits. The 1/1 several ways to do this and many tools available to the leathercrafter or hobbyist. Veneta chisels are used for punching saddle stitching slits, to be sewn with thread. The 3/32” chisels are for 3/32” lace, 1/8” for 1/8” lace and 5/32" for buckstitch or florentine lace. OF course, these rules are not hard and fast as stated in the introduction, ad way you he fer sege Hi erie» light guide lie sound figs, 78" in, wth wing dvidore To. progerly lige weeseting. sine lace ‘ise prong’ lat it punched fied punch gain. Captinve guncring ‘Afvwr punching she corner at, begin slits with # multrprong chisel, Spoon the rte from the corn same distance es bstwoan the othe evel 1 you ‘he fia a might suneh twrough tho edge of Inve Bice, sich a x pack. 8 Fart Prong Emvern bast St Propary align suseeeding sits, cawith Engh" sit Place tetra tot Sit punched Begin next slits with the multiprong the fet (hehe be th corner When going around slighty rounded recy Si tn yt ei ace tawt afte Turn ‘chant slightly so the the chisel so the las avon ‘hen ging aroun sly round Soar thc tig may beet Rep Pace itd prong a mula ciel owt te Fain thal hy 0. the Chisel Sethe los’ prong makes {eit impreion al eect the po ‘hey Bunt ty, ntesone wh Use Sipgle?rong chisel *F5 Raine Spas “Commer me the spacing ighty"“by “using “the ‘chic 3s thown shown, THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE THE SAME FOR BOTH STRAIGHT AND ‘ANGLED CHISELS, rene ease “ieee Kw > LINING INSIDE POCKETS His view suovs ebae AND sorrow Be THE: PROIECT INSIDE POCKETS TO EXPOSE SLITAN CI CARVING LEATHER Sometimes safest 1 punch ain pin re bac of Seer these pare the puree of parching cg proictbutore Examle A This hams he oe of the pouka caming dre in ht cn a sii Pini aed oh th Up te the st In Stop 1. Pullout the punch and move ove, ack nwtcre coment iinet ao naire gePe slog ad Sipping the it oy in Sop 2 Than carey time hm comer woe oF he hus punching thsough the for thickness ihn cementing tho'poskate in paler me Crome Gi Here so edgba the pocket euTTClony overs Bites (Btu heehee Bon punched sfton i wget tn pesos wit Be . Feit cee cf it ""and wan punched, tbe prone maul cet through we T@SH sO thatthe sinleorong chisel con be used at an onal to prevent cutting ssn Fate ctauat ihn" undosPaablor Aufecmorts Bove te be msde to the edge, Should the edgo be cut, simply wim off the corner ee es shown ant thie Sturdy the tupgest ons presorited stove. in exemple A. LACING NIPPERS A pair of Lacing Nippers is a handy tool for punching those areas which won't lay flat against a table, like handbag gussets, You can’t reach these places easily with a chisel. Lacing Nippers punch a 1/8” slit. Winen making bandon or cue or Teal any arabe the Sits tes tasahy upehd sefore inst ro shasbaco oath, te gue 2 Jrieors te farce, (ss good ek ice gli lina Sea the [Guset to be'sure the sits come cut USE MIPPERS WiTMOveRSTITCH WHEELS PR @IFORetHER STRAIGHT OW ANGLED SLITS NIPPERS CAN ALso BE UScD |) Wir THe ANGLED CHISELS. 4-IN-1 ROUND HOLE PUNCH ‘This punch is used in the same way as the multi-prong punches except it punches 1/16” round holes instead of slits. It punches the holes more accurately land rapidly than could be accomplished with the mini-punches. The punching tubes are replaceable, Always remember to use a protecto board under your leather to protect your tools. biog ae i Jann PUNCH 19 “AHOUND CURVES FO ADJUST SPACING AT CORNERS. Ihote end shan plsingCopunch on fod tina bunch with mallee / OVERSTITCH WHEELS These tools are used to mark spacing for holes when You are not using multi-prong punches or are us to punch holes, as in saddle stitching. They are available in several sizes. The numbers indicating size tell you how many stitches per inch each wheel marks, For instance, a number wupstians Pa 5 wheel will mark 5 stitches to the inch, a number 6 will mark 6 holes to the inch, etc. TUAW To SADDLE STITCHING MsTRUCTIONS Fon FUSTHER USES OF OVERSTITCH WHEELS 6 Stitches Per Inch 7 Sritohes Por The Mini Punch is an all-purpose hole punch with interchangeable tubes from zero to five. For lacing holes the number zero or number one is generally used unless Using latigo or buckstitch lace, It comes in a set with one handle and 6 tubes, Extra handles are available. Bo sure you protect the tips with 2 protecto board or piece of leather. Tune sizes " maria ponerse an Oabnch © © 0 OO ice cetetial clans | $135.1 S202 Size Size 4 Size — Rotwry Purch can't. Placr the punch vn poston | ° S33! Fas? i ae Gi r4 lies ith 4 pair of ‘Grip the tube with the and" turn couraer clock Wie Replace the the by turn Ing ieelackwee, ROTARY PUNCH A Rotary Punch is @ plier-like tool, with a punch on Sez gue ow wit hi Pace the end. You squeeze the handles to punch the hole. The Sth “ent "undar ihe latter ard Sane head of the punch has six tubes radiating out like the spokes tputher sora Bi Coun il Hata to a ‘of a wheel. With a turn of the wheel you can change hole sizes. Remove tubes from punch You sernoved tie mint bunch Abe ‘Tuse sizes. NOTE: The 6:IN-4 Rotory, Punch {bes art Interchangesbie with Met r———- Punch } seit THREADING THE NEEDLES Just as in sewing, a needle is advantageous when push through. It’s like trying to push @ piece of thread lacing, When you start lacing, the lace is usually stiff enough through cloth without a needle. Below we will show you to go through the holes without a needle, but after going how to thread three diffirent kinds of lacing needles. through a holes it soon becomes too soft and pliant to TWO PRONG NEEDLE This is a flat lacing needle recommended for 3/32" widely used lacing needle, It is inexpensive and can usually and 1/8" flat laces. The Two-Prong Needle is the most be used for several lacing jobs before it is discarded. 2 Spring the throading end of the evel open Insert the pointed end af the ince ‘nthe lace and saucers gantiy with Ite he aoate, sooth side wp 95 ‘Bronge pierce the ince are Tonk im plas Ta roma shown, Spring tne nadie open ae sew n'Step 2 HOOK AND EYE NEEDLE This is also 2 flat lacing neodle. It is recommended for hooks. This helps to insure the face will not slip out of the 3/32" flat lace, The lace passes through a hole or eye in the _ needle when you pull it through the leather. This needle is end of the needle before it is gripped by the prongs and also considered to be disposable. Prepare the lace oe in. the ingtructions Showe‘Pagr the lace thraugh the aye of the headie: spring the needle open and ger ha end of te lace lace eod saubee whe parrot The pranas. ber Fomave te tc Ing"the pron oven "she falling. the Tace oft the LIFE EYE NEEDLES ‘These are solid brass round needles, much preferred and 1/8" laces while the large size, called the Latigo Life professional craftsmen. Unlike the two previous needles, Eye, is used for larger laces such es 3/16” florentine, 5/32” he Life Eye Needles can be used again and again, as their buckstitch and even latigo laces. @ small size is recommended for 3/32” “To, remove the lan from tho naw eye, Solas 'SBn hates Sonorskave Now insert the pointed Ty the open rot ten lockwie several simes until the Tace {eFimly secured Should needle fil to thread propery, there is probably material foded in the eve. This can bere ‘movee mith a pin TWineing necdentiy breaks even with the aye of this needle, unscrew stub with a per of small toe tars It this tr unsuccassfl, take mpin and runit ito the tub of lace (at angle) andurssrew counter SPLICING When you lace a project it is generally recom- mended that you use no more than 2 yards of lace at a time. This is because pulling the lace through all those holes wears the lace and may weaken it. It also frays the edges so that the lace doesn’t look good toward the end of CEMENT SPLICING This method is commonly used by leathercrafters and manufacturers of lace 2s well. Often on a spool of lace a piace will be splicad in to fill the spool. ‘kiss tha ont ofthe et ace a7 aha top si. Siva the ad at ‘he. naw lees om the bottom side, Carefully soply crafman ‘comand to the sewed ends DRY SPLICING This type splicing can be used on any type lacing as tong as you have more than one layer of leather. It is easy and doesn’t take as much time as cement splicing. The fo 8° of icing i ‘he splice. Fallows jo an iow Top Side OF Lace the project, Well, unless your project is very small and you are doing a very simple stitch, 2 yards of lace will not go completely around it. You will have to splice in anew lencth of lace, maybe even several times. ‘Allon cament t0 dry until tacky. Adhae skivad ands together. Gontina icing seo your proiect lustrations are on double loop lacing, but it is done the same way regardless of tha type lacing being done, Lace uth the aid ae op 30 the new lece. Go though slit Im front se n'y, ond come up Between the leathers. nd corti wd sort your project with 1 cut off the ‘about 3)" SPLICING ON A SINGLE THICKN Generally when lacing on a single thickness of leather, it is recommended that you put enough lace in your needlé to complate the erea without splicing. Sometimes this is just not possible. On thin leathers, cement splicing must be used, however on thicker leathers, dry splicing can be done. eK END BETWEEN, TEATHERS Continue lacing aril tage over ens ‘Srinetrusted, to lode them im place ESS gary craaly ait he de ing sbout three hole, Use dry spicing tecigue Se thowh shove = aaa LACING TECHNIQUES Lacing puts the finishing touch to handmade leather articles. How you lace, your technique and proficiency, has a great deal of importance in the overall appearance of the finished product. With the following instructions, plus @ little practice, you will soon be doing @ professional job of lacing, THE WHIPSTITCH RECOMMENDED USAGE: [Small projects with little stress ec Use 2/92" holes and 9/92" lace. tne whip Sitch uses 3% times the aro St lta ate ong samp vou wit | ad "gpg ced 3) timey that reourt ot Inca, oF 7 ft. of lace, Thread the needle onc when pierce ine with 3 There are two rules to remember when lacing, no matter what technique you are using. 1.) You should load no more than 2 yards of lace in your lacing needle at a time as lace can fray and wear from being pulled through the holes. 2.) When lacing, always lace with the front or out: side of the project facing you! edge of FRovior to ths front ef the profost through net ote over fram brain Frte thom thisod. it thvowshy the it Inthe ane ‘oF the ince srl *hw002% the opposite hol, a sown. Bein lacing in between the feather” Uaave abeut 1/3" at tha Sha whore you st the ace BEGINNING srivent etoreen your ve ich. ae Show an a Fok Tet ian Rat RECOMMENDED USAGE: [Small projects with little stress Use 3/32" holes end 3/32" lace. The Running Stitch uses 1% fimes the length of lace to the Ienath of your project. For example; if your project m 2 ft. around the laced part, you will mead 116 times that amount ot iace, or 3 ft af lace. ogin ting Iuct as you did for tho Wine sth ‘Spread the twa leather iayers nee tn through the eat hole, up between the leathers and through the 1st laod= | put che test foop taht, of tho ine, ta she BEGINNING FLESH SIDE ENDING FLESH SIDE Yan Wi, Sut being" caretel not fo oct thelace. Continued en pave 10, ech ost through front a Stowe, THE RUNNING STITCH— continued from page 9. ers seine 7 ough texte, Spread iar ph eatlck i ‘vd out the Holes. pulling fa | Put hw looca top taht and cansine aches tight os you ge: pulling alle sask ou ofthe ace BEGINNING ENDING 2 2 = & | FOQ ee | Sean agra Ms gg te Ramee ut on a a Tig atte ames ee Hig ieeetie aces | Martie aie tena | beng Gk Rtuyasnroumscoe | Sees aes errr | Barc area THE BUCKSTITCH — An led Slits RECOMMENDED USAGE: 1 3 Small projects with litte strass an seams r as decorative edging. Use 3/32", 1/8” or 5/32” angled MM slits with’ same width lace. Romembar for Buskstitching you rurthawe aneven umber oft : Bucket with angled sits uses sebroxiratay” De tines ‘he emt of lace onthe proiees ryt - frehatlcstoetiotoiea: |, \ | Sets | ta tan ae measures 2 ft around laced part, | Begin tocing just es you did for the ico" and. xn" tivougs ne | fork, eolng corel not to tab oe You wi need’ fof lec. Reta Soran einem cheers” | ee 4 u a. BR 7] / er venee AD f )¢ @ a Cs egitune Darin sir stan Puch nando ‘Sonn a sit. Spree (7 fens ee oct Soe ena ee SAN RSE TCSERS | ta eo nap TEDSTER | nani mee egagine Manone Eeoieaceuaieuens | Deine outs Polar oe ert B 9 é 10) BEGINNING eur Te a NOTE’ = 2 ‘i ENOING. FLESH SIDE | oot Tecing all the may around Y © wp “2 Ta t = meee na teeta ee Plonnnn ered val Gare aL We at gat | I TT EF Ns semaicicnre ve Pea ee eae eat mt Hat aE | vying tw avg nee | SAS rsh the eral of the Tsee clogs to *he leather and tapall cing at with ‘smooth mallet na Continue facing 9 tah fests Ink Sy sme bring whe | \m fiat, then Bask though sand feet "up Between the leathers’ and | strand af ince Erabyruniieg tt hse few etna Under fact stitch on beck RECOMMENDED USAGE: ‘Small projects with ite stress on seams oF a3 decorat Use 3/32”, 1/8" or 5/32" slits ‘with same width lace, Remember for Buckstitching you must have an even number of slits. Buckstiteh with straight slits uses ‘of project. For example; if your project mossuros 2 ft. around faced part, you will nood 4 ft, THE BUCKSTITCH — Straight Slits fecal bo “A Pll frst loop taht ond toca fall ist loop sight end taco back Paull fest stitch vat, Turn pe Bs beck shvough aot eit te chow ck of te seh ae aoa The br both sides of te proloet. ‘Connie tcing. Pull stiches tah at 6 Pall the loose loa tint ane e Piling all tha sash out af the RECOMMENDED USAGE. Lightweight leathers or single thickness. projects where little Jace is required toc Use 3/32" sits with 3/32" la ‘Single Loop Lacingusos 6% times more tace than the le project. For oxampk Project measures 2 ft. around faced part, you will need 13 ft Wore ai In back my ow atten, Fold end up Shown Hold ih i 10) When ving of, go trough oext 50 tate tip berween tia Waters ar back foop lace around os ih tinge lt whan using the Buekalich on 3 ingle thicker beg faci fram ack sie Si, een beck throudh second of tara, Endy rue oce Under lest etch on back eee through 2nd fenooth side of lace. ‘There frst 2 stitches should not be tight but, snug a bey. must be Pus) needle under lace as shown. «| mahusted whan completing Ghith the fee stam ip: Be nat ict 6 LACE. THROUGH THREE CORNER HOLES Tice EACH ‘oon cor comertouee 7 ae hSS Continua lacing ae before. Whon you Slace throug the ee STYLUs END oF WooeveR Lace through last slit and under loop Insert stylus end of modeling Oo! Under ond of Ince nse stylus beta hosk ove the ‘he leathers anc mndof tice aschown pal up scan and aa itand gf lace out af tre hole: up tan thelenthars. Puts neacin down thiouah th foop, ceratlly, as shaw fis) Push needa through tween the doer not bint 15) Pull lacing ap srg and edjust so that Hlgt the steher sopear even 16] Carefully cut off end from the fe sida as Soom, Tax lacing a with ‘or roll urders weoden dovrs RECOMMENDED USAGE: Medium size projects such os billfolds, ‘purses, ‘clutches, ac. Use 3/32” or 1/e" correspondingly sized slits Double Loop Lacing uses 7-8 times more lace than. the length of the project. For ‘example: if your project mea- sures 2 ft. around laced pai you will need 14-16 ft. of lace. ‘CONTINUE Pull tho stitch under the bight out not right Laca mena pot ait 17] When you are nat lacing completaly around a project you ‘ill begin as {Step of the Wripstich on Doge 8. Then come under fwst stitch ae Shown and continue tins of project. ous the Ase aie Leave about 3" of tho losing nd ‘and goon. to. tho nxt lit Sree gnm go under the pull me stiteh snag whan end 40. throueh last st, Under (op and then go throudh last aii in wont ‘he ‘only and. come ou [ators and beck 3 SIGHT (CROSS) ‘The forms. FD OF, LAGE can, Se fie Leaseo| 19 BEGINNING ENDING FLESH SIDE (Baer? FLESH SIDE acing 07 3 single zi 0 nether end by” fur Bock under the ast few states oF ‘te back of ua laters / HOLD END OF ace bown ATH FINGER. CORNER Hotes | wice each Who tacing a corner, stitch {he thro cornar Poles rice 80h cn veto ape few “iorgth” of ace, "(S08 Splitieg iatmuetions on pee 8) out of th ae ofthe loom Push stylus down berrecn the laches «inate i over ta end te ie Pull end of lace our of sin and we Detweeroothers. Two. emoty sles ‘om the front ses One flied out aoe tuck tha end of the feathera Lees through tho went hit ie Z, Tuck eno nase f/ snd face up through ek se. Alte 88 shoul be file f ut of the frst loop ‘uh tigre tama Si'yeur strenes sapeat ea all the ond of the lacing dow tight Maa" sute all tehen appeot oven ta equally space Ccareuny ross over as shown. and push resale down through the foam hg] Se grata anata Sse ee rofully ext off she and of thie ng. ap icing fat wish a alee or rf fat wit 3 wooden dowel, | Wir you ara nor lacing comely Bosna e Siokesyeu, oa fpcing asin Step 1 though’. in Stop rinsed of holding the ene dow, the ack Ip 1 fog sige of fhe ezher’ ane lust ince vse 1 fart sit again, through front only ‘out beturhen the leathers nt bck few stitches. Trim of [26] BEGINNING FLESHSIDE When Double Loop Lacing on a finale eRekneee ‘eather, you cam begin just ae yeu ata in Stas 28 27) ENDING FLESH SIDE When ending, sun the needa bk utero Lat tow stiches ‘the back ofthe eather TRIPLE LOOP LACING RECOMMENDED USAGE: Heavier projects such as purses, briofoabe: and holsters, because it will cover thicker edges. Triple Loop Lacing uses approx: imately 9 times more lace than the length of the project. For ‘example: If your project mes: sures two fect oround laced part ‘you will need 18 feat of lace Pull sun sua: Ie uncer bint Fail stteh snug owe. Lace ‘frou fist hte vo rahe pantie aeen inn ONE STRAND Oe Z awo 'STRANDS| ‘STRANDS Lace under bight. However, lace Lace under bightz ueder TWO Pu snug: inca through rent hole, | cirande on front, ONE strand on [ro] [a] Pranewvennes | LA eof. \ cg kg \ oy b A ' Lace thru JOTE: Two loops over one ay corner holes : and apposrs only at beginning. hoe times. ese to go inde it Soak ares be cineca ~ a5 ra STRANDS Put up snup: ace through ext | Continue facing: under TWO hole. Strands on frant, ONE at back, Bevin removing end of toes a frown, oO 7 he = Ty] LOOSEN = LEATHERS | Tuck END OF LACE BETWEEN LEATHERS BSS SIP ae VACLOCO ag XK.

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