By the Same Author ‘Tus Jexton Boox oF Canine ax Wooscnarr Wooocearr Joo Goss Canerive Dances ano Srontts oF Tix AMERICAN THDUAN Doms, Toxerones aND Rarsiss Rorise Pysatte ano PIONEER SrouTs Campine ano Eovestion ‘Tue Boor ron Jowion Woousssex AAs coauthor with E. D. Mitchell Soctat Ganers on Recreation Active Gaxers ax Contests “Tue Tusony oF Px WOODSMANSHIP ty BERNARD S. MASON drawings by Frederic H. Kock A.S. Bares and Company New York | ‘Copyright, 1945 and 1954, by A. S. Barnes and Company, Ine Allrghtsceserved, No part of this book may be reproduced jn eny form, either wholly or in part, for any use whatso- ‘ever, including radio ind televialon presentation, without the written permission of the copyright owner with the ‘exception of a review quoting brief passages ia a magazine ‘ornewspaper. Manufactured nthe United StatesofAmericx. Published on the sume day inthe Dominion of Canada ‘by The Copp Clark Company, Ltd, Toronto Libroty of Congress Catalog Card Number: 54-5408 Most ofthe material i tis book previously appeared in “Tne nook on juston woopsnern (A. S. Barnes, 1945) a rey) CONTENTS Mon ofthe Woods res for Yonder Coury Sire Foting Pole Catto You Sie Double-hit ruler Ax ‘ses Ase, Aes Handle with Cae The Hang oft Whose Fault? ale Axes Do Bie Giving i Teth For Speed and Safety ‘he Old Grinding Wheel Chopping High, Low, and inthe Middle How Bigs the Cow's Mouth? Misery Whips Dont Drag Your Fest OL Fashioned Bucksaw Modern Bow aw Ie Teeth Need Brushing Felling with an Ax “Which Directo? Felling with a Saw ithe Tree Leas Freeing Lodged Tee Pushing Them Down “PLM BE-R'~ Beware Watch Out for Kickback Lopping the Branches Bucking Up “The Backes’ Horses Peavey and Cant ook Bees BESBRRS Bese Cording “The Handy Palghook Canying Logs Come-alongs skidding Pike-poles Bitking Sphitsng Logs Wedges and Gluts ‘To Drive Wedges As Thin as @ Rail Horse-high, Bullstrong and Pigetight 54 Beetles Chopping Blocks Spliting Stovewood Getting the Shakes Hew tothe Line With the Aid of an Adz Shaving Horse Crooked Knife Stamp Vise Barking Brushing Getting Down to Roots “Taking the Stamp “More Power to You Wilderness Auto Tracks Catamaran Your Ax s Your Knife Slab Pigs Backwoods Plumbing Water Boy Giving er Snoose in the Roleo Nailing Dowa the Size Logging Lingo gaaga 80 cy Pn 133519WOODSMANSHIPSURE FOOTING Nori R088 sa OF 1s COURAGE in crashing the brush and slash-piles so mosh as fimay shoes, When well-shod and rough, he wades right into the mess, but with poor foot proteeton, he misces his way, picking every tkap, and worry {ng lest he bark his ankle or crack his shin. The wise look well to their boos Nine inches isthe proper height for a hoot, not over ten. Lower than that they offer no shin protection, and shins ace sensitive; and, moreover the pants leg cannot be tucked in, and tucked in they should be lest the fappy bottoms catch on every stub fo trip and rip. Those who prefer their pants legs open should cut ‘thea off at the top of the boots, stag-pants style. If low shoes must be worn, wrap the pants leg around the ankle and tie them. Knee-high boots axe seldom worn fn the bush=they are hot, heavy, and wholly unnecessary. ‘The moccasin pac is the lightest, most flexible and most comfortable boot rade, yet sturdy witha, offering gocd protection, It has one shortcoming is slippery on wet rocks and grassy slopes. In that kind of country, a moccasin pac with a rubber sole is better. Some prefer it anyway because it has a heel. wampy going. ordinary rubber pacs are excellent. They are usually ‘worn with an arched innersole inserted. Avoid waterpreot leather boots—they are never watertight, and ate unbelievably hot la working on logs, leather boots with heavy calked soles are necessary to prevent sipping. Whatever the boot, wear heavy wool socks, preferably two pairs, to give the needed padding, Heavy socks cushion the feet and absorb the shock D.H. HILL Linpapy wz | Mee PAs teePOLE-AX Eventonn xnows ie yove-ax, even though he may not know it by that name. It is an ax with a hammer surface opposite the cutting edge, as shown in the drawing, Iti the commonest type of ax, the type that comes to one's mind when the word “ax” is mentioned, The harnmer surface is called a pole, hence the name pole-x. While any ax with » hammer surface may rightly be called a ppole-ax, inchading even the litle Scout ax, yet the term as itis commonly used refers to a large ax of this type. One speaks of his pole-an to difer- entiate it irom his double-biteed ax of equal size. It is @ good habit always to speak of one’s pole-ax by that same, not merely to call it an ax. In doing to, one is using the terminology of the woods and the logging camps. Similarly, itis important to know the names ofthe different parts of an ax, and to refer to them by the proper terms, One's talk, as wel as his skills, ebels him a8-woodeman or tender- foot. (Of the two main types of axes~pole-ates and double-bitted ares the pole-ax isto be preferred for general use. It isthe all-purpose ax, ‘meeting the situation whether it be splitting, chopping, or the hammer. ing an ax is called upon to do. It reigns supreme on the woodpile, fr it sone s suitable for splitting wood. And it should never be sold short as a chopping tool. If only one ax can be had with which to do all kinds of ‘work, that ax should be a pole-ay. CUT TO YOUR SIZE ‘Too aie aN Ax is a hindrance. It causes strain and destroys your aim. One gets out more work with an ax that fts—one that fits him and fits the job he is doing, No burly lumberjack would use a lerger ax than the job requires. A full sized pole-ax is not needed for chopping as often as one might think. ‘The smaller pulproood ax is usually large enough. Large pole-axes range in weight from three to five pounds. Most woods. ‘men prefer a SH-pound one with « 86-inch handle, which is heavy enough for any ‘use, But such big axes are needed only for splitting firewood and for chopping big timber, For most other tasks the pulpwood siz is dequate, “The pulpwood ax weighs 2% pounds and as a 28-inch handle. Te & the ax used in pulpwood logging, where the trees seldom run over a foot in diameter at the butt, For such work no logger would ask for « heavier one, It is unexcelled as an ax for boys; indeed, this size Is often cataloged by manufacturers under the title of boy's ax "The cedar ox is another superb’ ax ofthe same size, Its wide bit, shown in the drawing, was developed for use in the cedar country af ‘Texas where a tangle of branches and brush must be cleared away before getting to the tree. But itis becoming popular the country over as an allsound chopping ax for light timber. ‘These 2-pound axes with 28- inch helves are referred to as three: quarter axes. If one of these is handy, ‘you will find that you will seldom pick up the big poleax, They ate type-perfect for boys and women, and large enough for the chopping most men will do. EDA A, AX BRIE ahs.DOUBLE-BIT Tins nacaery ax of the Northland & the token of true woodsmanship. A double-bited ox ‘man!thus i the man spoken of who i master of the sil of the tinber country. Not that this ax sso moch moze dificult to use, but that the tool ofthe professional logger, and as such has become the sybol of expertnes. ‘The double-bitted ax developed i the North country where the tees were big and logging was an industy, and t accompanied the lumberjack from Maine across to Oregon. One sees double-bits on every han in these Nacthland humber camps, but may search long to find a single poe-ax. “The characteristic ofthe doublebitted axis that it has no hammer surface 48 does the poe, lt sather has two cutting edges opposite each other snd both in ine with the handle This chosen ax of the lumberjack has many advantages, and on the other hand sa tol forthe inexperienced it has many disadvantages. Those who are ac- customed tit claim tht there fa balance and trimness about it that makes the poleax seem clumsy by comparison, Its weight i all inline with it ettng edge ~it seems to swing more true to its mark, and to bite deeper. More important til, {ts two blades make ta dual-purpose chopping ax—two axes in one. The woodsman, {nds the to blades to diferent thicknesses. each for decent purpose, The thin Biche reserves for clean, fst chopping, and the thicker one he uses around knots, in cutting roots, and in working near the ground where a slip means a nick, Thus Ines able to rote his keen bit and keep it rzae-sarp, But be it known that the full-sized double-bit ta spevalzed toa that be- longs only in the hands ofthe professional logér. Its big~and vicious. It is too such ax forthe average person. It is dangeros in other than expert hands and it fs not needed outside the logging industry. The lighter and smaller Cruiser Axis the double bit bestsuited for average needs. CRUISER AX “Twx cnuisen ax is a double-bit eut down to size convenient to handle. It sweighs 2% gounds and has a 28-inch handle, Iti thus a three-quarter ax—the double-bitted companion of the pulpwoo8 ax—yet i is capable of tackling with ‘ease any kind of timber up to & foot in diameter. It has all the advantages of the double-bit, yet none of the unvieldiness ofits overgrown brother of the logging ‘camps. And itis much safer Rarely is @ larger ax needed outside of the logging industry, and if ti, a pole-2x would be preferable. ‘The Cruiser isa good ax to know. Iti a standard pattern and is made, with slight variations, by all ax manufacturers, "The best Feature of the Cruiser is that it can be muzzled, a very important consideration, for double-bits are notoriously dangerous to cary, Sheaths are sold for it and inthe sheath & should always be when not in use. When muzzled, both the ax and the people around it are safe. In spite ofits long handle it ean be carried on the belt, ht whether by belt or hand, it should bein its sheath ‘The Cruiser was originally developed for use by the timber cruisers of the Pacific Coast who needed a fistclas,eficient ax, yet one light enough to be carcied while cruising afoot. But filling a widespread need as it i, its popularity spread rapidly to other sreas and for other purposes. Today it stands as one of the most useful axes made. A. meosoring sick (s good to have along in the ‘woods, and the handiest place for itis on the ax handle. If the ruler marks are burned on with a hot wire they become permanently fised and clearly visible, yet do not rough up the handle. Never notch them on, for an ax handle must be absolutely smooth and slick, A two-foot ruler ean be matked on the Cruiser handle RULER MARES BURKED INTO HELVE OF CRUISER AX CRUISER ‘AX 20218.| MICHIGAN AXES, AXES, AXES h HOOSIER i ROCKAWAY [ | DAYTON YERSEY Of WISCONSIN WEEN CROWN | = | sexe, {3 Hen. ARE THE BETTER-ENOWS PAT- ‘runs oF axes. Yes, there are more-many | Todeed, there are upwards of thirty diffeent patterns of poleaxes alone used in Amerie today. ‘Why so many types? Wis largely 2 matter of regional preference, certain sec- tions of the country preferring certain patterns because of traditions that have developed there. This came about because, fn the early days, axes were made by local blacksmiths, each according to his own ideas, Different patterns thus developed ‘nthe diferent localities, and as the years went by the traditions carried on, so that to this day the people in certain areas demand certain styles, the style their ancestors Knew before them ‘When it comes to axes the pat is big fn the present. This is particularly trae in the eastern past ofthe country with its long pioneer history. ft often happens that the style of ax carries the name of the locality where it fst developed, Re SOUR EMD KENTUCKY OR SOUTHERN YANKEE DOCK HALF WEDGE CEDAR HALE WEDGE | HALF ‘Thus it happens that when one goes Into a local store to putchase an ax, he usually finds, not many, but one style of ‘axon display-the traditional style for that particular area, And thus it happens that one orders an ax disect from the manue facturer without specifying the style, the ‘manufacturer will usually determine the style by the section of the country from hich the order came. How, then, can we select an ax from this maze of patterns? In pole-axes, the Michigan pattern is the most widely ‘used td the vext in popolarity is the Day- ton pattern ‘one wishes to follow the twadition of the particular locality in which be lives, he will do well to select ome of these, preferably the Michigan, which is probably the pattern bestdapted for general use, Among double-bits, the Michi gan is again the most widely used, with the Western second in popularity. ‘The axes designed for special pur- poses, such as the Peeling, Half-Peeling, Falling and Swamping types, for example, are tools for the logging industry, where ‘each has particular duties to do. They are not adapted for general as, Ht) PEELWG OR REVERSIBLE WIEHIGAN WARROW MICHIGAN ! FALLING FULLPEELING WESTERN OR PEMNSYLANIA \ SWAMPSHANDLE WITH CARE Le AN AvrowonLe with «faulty steering wheel, an ax with a poor handle 's apt to get out of control and is never dependable, Cheap handles tend to break, split, warp, and fur up, end they’seem to do these things just when the axis needed, ost. Get the best helve that is made, for the best is none too good. This means to getone of seasoned second growth hickory (or of hard maple, as second choice) ~avoid those that are not so labeled, no matter ow beautifully they may be painted or Iaequered. Examine the grai 0 see that itis straight. Poleax handles are usually curved (Figure A), wheress those used on FRONT EMD BELLY KNOB dovble-bitted axes are straight (Figure D). Occasionally a straight handle is seen fon @ pole-sx (Figure C) but these are not commen. ] [At the end of an x handle is kool shaped to 8 the hand. The usual type 1s the familiar faunfoot, seen on practically all poleax handles. The scroll end is seldom used on big axes. Straight handles have slight swell atthe end, ‘An ax handle should be absclutely smooth so that it will slip inthe hand ‘with the utmost ease, All ox handles have a smooth frish when boughs, i tre lacquered to give them increased slckness, In time even a good handle may fur up when wet s0 as to become rough, This may be remedied by soaking the handle in hot water until the grain stands out, allowing it to dry, and then sanding it down smooth. Then give it repeated coats of linseed ofl. Should a handle warp, throw it away and get a new one. In storing an ax fora long time, lay it at on the floor to prevent warping, A PAWN EOOTS SWELL-END POLE-AX HANDLES BITTED AX HANDLE | OBUE BUT Acne THE HANDLES THE HANG OF IT Chnecx 1s HANG OF THE Ax before you buy it Sight down the cutting edge to see if itis in exact line ‘with the end ofthe handle~if ua, discard i, Then glace the ax on a table so that both the cutting edge and the end of the handle touch the surface. If properly hung, the cutting edge will touch at a point one-third from the heel, as shown ithe drawing. Although tastes may vary, this isthe standard and accepted hang for full-sized axes, In pulpwood logging, however, where the palp- ‘wood ax with @ 28inch handle is used, the preferred hang is with the cutting edge touching atthe mile. But even here, the standard hang would he ecceptable. Removing a Broken Handle.—Thrust the blade in the ground and build a little fire over it. If itis a double-bit, dig a small ditch, place the ax crosswise of ‘and cover the cutting edges with earth, then build a fre in the ditch, The eaeth protects the temper. Hanging a New Handle.—First saw off about one inch from the end of the fawnfoot so a8 to provide a blunt surface on which to pound. Split the other end 0s toreceve the wedge, then drive ths split end into the eye of the ax by pound- ing on the Sawntoot, ete is a secret that will make the wedge stick: When the ‘wedge is driven in cut a groove crosswise of it as inthe drawing, and then continue driving it in until the groove disappears in the end of the handle. Then break the wedge off~it will break at the groove, and the handle ofthe ax will swell over it ‘and hold it securely. The wedge shauld be of seasoned hardwood. oe | al PROPER HANG (OR A LARGE POLE-AX PREFERRED HANG FOR A PULPWOOD AXTHIS WAS THE FAULT OF THE WARM YOUR AX BEFORE USING IT. WN COLD WEATHER WHOSE FAULT? Wues: ax ax cars, we are quick to blame the ax...to ccudema not only the ax, but the manufacturer and al the axes that bear his name, Now it may well be that the ax was defective, but {ts more probable that the fault rests with the axman. And one lance at the ax will settle the matter, fora sound ax breaks in & diferent way from a faulty one, Note the drawing of the ax at the top of the page. This was a sound ax, used by a careless axman, The breaks in it have curved edges; they are small rounded nicks. Such nicks as these are caused by striking an object harder than the ax ean cut ‘Now look atthe pietre ofthe faulty ax below it. Note that these breaks come to a sharp point. Such breaks are caused by cracks resulting from shrinkage after the steel hardened. Any manufacturer of warranted axes will replace an ax that develops such breaks, but will not replace ones with breaks of the type shown in the upper drawing, ‘Axes are male of steel, and stel will break if struck against too hard an object. They are made to cut wood. Ifa good ax is handled carefully, it will not break: 1. Never let the edge touch the ground—even pebble ‘may chip it. Mattocks are made to use in the ground, not axes. 2 Avoid hemlock and balsam knots—they are glas-hard and will break any ax. Never chop any kind of a knot unnecessarly-eut around it iF possible 8. In cold weather, warm the ax before tung, Steel with frost in itis very britle, Don't get it too othe test sf yom ea toc it with ‘your hand MUZZLED AXES DON'T BITE One Tae Mase wert A Hos-nuLe ax i careless about where he puts it. Kicking a sharp ax slike touching a razor blade, That keen edge must be kept covered up: 1. When through with a pole-ay, stick Win a log ox stump-never lay it down or lean it, (Don't leave it stuck long, however, or it will “sweat” and become dull.) 2. A double-bitted ax should never be stuck in a log so that one bit flares out dangerously. Stick the head under a log, ot ist drive one bit into small piece of wood and then stick the other bit inthe log 8. Indoors, place the pole-ax in a corner with the Dlade pointing inward. A double-bit should be placed in a ‘comer with both blades touching the walls, 4. In carrying a double-bit, grip the handle close to the head and carry at the side, blades up and down, Grip a pole-ax in the same way but with the blade point {ng outward. If you stumble, throw the ax. 5. Get the muzzling habit. Ifthe ax has a sheath, seit.GIVING IT TEETH AN AX IS THE EAStesr oF Toots to sharpen. An S-inch mill file and a round ax stone are needed, both of which should always be handy, ROUND AX STONE og, 1. First down the flat surface ofthe blde: Place the le at onthe blade a «point a halfnch from the edge (Figure 1), and push it directly ey frm the edge Lift the fle of aftr each stoke, ling only onthe forward motion. The Ble should always be kept at right angles os cutting edge 2 Aim fore fan-shaped effect shown in Figure 2 fling back for & dis tance of thee inches from the cutting edge a its midle point 3, Now file the edge: Place the fle on the very edge (Figure 8) and make rounded stokes away frm the eige to a pot half-inch back from \ 44 Next hone the ax withthe round ax stone. Grip the ax as in Figuee 4, and rb the edge withthe stone, using cieular maton from the toe tothe heel Start with the rough side of the stone ad repeat with the fine sie, Wet the tone. ‘3 Hold the ax asin Figure 5 and repeat onthe other side The ax should now be razor-sharp. Each time its resharpened, the flat face ofthe blade shoud be filed before the edge is touched up. The importance of this will be seen nthe next chapter FOR SPEED AND SAFETY ‘A ous axis a thing to be feared. Instead of cutting in, it tends to glance off ‘and herein rests the story of most accidents, for when an ax glances of i ates out wildly and is beyond the control of the axman. Both for speed in chopping and for safety, an ax should be kept razor-sharp. ‘The need is not only fora sharp edge, but for a blade that is thinned. dawn. Proportionately. A new ax is usually ground to proper proportions when it is put chased, but when you resharpen it, if you merely fle the bevel ofthe cutting edge without thinning the blade correspondingly, the blade will soon become stunt and stubby. This isapparentin the bitmarked "too thick. ‘That kind of an ax is both inefficient and dangerous On the other hand, axes are often ground too thin, ‘even to the point of giving them a convex grind as ‘seen in the drawing of the blade matked “too thin.” Such an ax may bxeak under ordinary chopping An abit gauge dispels all these worries in sharpening an ax. This is a thin sheet of metal with slot cut fa it ofthe exact thickness the blade should have. By sipping it over the edge of the ax, one can tellata glance whether the bits too thin or too thick. ‘These gauges are not on the masket, but cen easily bbe made from a shoet of sft steel, using the pattern shown at A, which & the ex- act size aa LUG NL BLUNT AXES GLANCE O) PROPERLY SHARPENED ONESTHE OLD GRINDING WHEEL 1s ss woten aN ax is in bad shape and in need of much grinding that the services of the grindstone are sought, but once in shape again, a fe is all chat is needed to Keep it so. Those whe touch up their axes regularly seldom need the srindstone, 1, Keep the grindstone wet. A dy stone will surely ruin an ax. The temper ofits thin edge is easily drawn by the heat of grinding, the steel becomes softened. and the ax rendered worthless. For the same reason, turn slowly—speed creates ‘00 much beat, even when the stone is wet 2, Turn the wheel so that it moves toward the ax, not away frm i. 3, Hold the blade of the ax crosswise of the stone as in the drawing, so that the stone will stroke it at right angles to the cutting edge. If held as in the picture ofthe wrong way, a gyoove will be worn in the middle ofthe stone 50 as to ruin it for foture use. 4. Follow the same routine as in sharpening with a file, rst grinding the fiat surface of the blade, then rounding off the bevel ofthe edge. Read the instruc tions for fling on page 16—the procedure is the same whether with file = grind: 5. Grind gently, keeping an eagle eye on the bevel of the bit, 0 as not to alter its original ine. CLOTHING GUARDCHOPPING ‘Aw exami in the ast of chopping is not born in a day. Full mastery comes only after one has had an ax in his hands for years, But the fundamentals are clear, and can be picked ‘ap by anyone, and once in hand, will do much to make the big chips dy. Holding the Ax-—Grasp the at with the left hand just above the knob at the end of the handle, and support it with the right hand about three-fourths of the way up the handle ‘With the ax held én this way, crosswise in front of the body, wwe are ready to start chopping, The Forehand Swing —This is to eut the right side of the notch, Raise the ax up behind the right shoulder asin the ‘picture. The hana ae stil in the same position as atthe star. [Now bring it down onto the log with @ natural, easy, swing ing motion, sliding the right hand down the handle as you do 50, 80 that both hands are together at the end ofthe stroke, Raise it again, sliding the right hand up as before, and start the next swing. The right hand thos slides up and down, FOREHAND — “ile the left remains stationary. ‘SWihle The Backhand Swing —This sta cut the let side of the notch. aise the ax over the right shoulder as before, bt len the body well to the left, so that the ax ean be brought down in line with the left face ofthe notch. Chop Gently—Above all, take it easy. Never drive the ax or force it. The weight of the axis sufficient to do the chopping. Force is unnecessary, but worse-it destroys your alun, and agcuracy te ‘chat counts, Swing with a normal, natural, unforced, rhythmic swing-and watch your aim. That is what cuts wood, not brute fore, PAKHANO SWING DOWNWARD SWING HIGH, LOW, AND IN THE MIDDLE ‘Ture rosrrtow from which to chop logis standing ‘on top of it. The reason is simple: A log is chopped by. cutting a V in one side of it, and then cutting another V in the opposite side 50 that the two meet. OF course if the log fs small enough to be rolled over, one ean stand to.one side and chop a Vin the top of i, then roll it over and finish on the other side. But if it can’t be rolled, which is usually the case, there is po choice but to mount it. from which position you can chop one side, then arn around to chop the other. This i always the best postion anyway if the log i large ‘enough to provide footing. If i is tipsy or slippery, rough up footholds on i. Peter MeLaren, of champion chopping fame, frst put into words the chop- ping technique that forms the basis for our motto, “high, low, and in the middle.” Standing on top the log, first make three forehand stokes, then thyee backhand strokes, following the sequence shown in the drawing: the first stoke should strike the log atthe top edge, the second at the bottom edge, and the third inthe ‘middle. This is the routine of good choppinghigh, low, and in the middle, There is good reason for this: Not until the wood has been cut at the top and bottom can the big center chip be thrown out, and moreover, if the middle stroke is made frst the ax wilt bind and freeze én the solid wood. The top stroke should be so made that the corner ofthe ax blade extends above the log, and the bottom cut so thatthe corner extends below-this to prevent the ax from sticking Ate the wood has been cut at the top and bottom the middle blow sill loosen the center chip easily and the ax willbe freed. It is the last stroke in the series—No, 6 in the drawing—that throws the chip to the ground, ‘f course in actual practice it will nat work out jut this way unless every blow is perfectly placed. Ifthe blows are poorly aimed, several estra strokes may be needed. And again, ifthe log is big, several centr strokes may be needed instead of one, But the high-low sequence should be followed regardless. WEFECTVE RIGHT DANGEROUSHOW BIG IS THE COW’S MOUTH? Trpepenns ox THe S128 OF THE 106. The commorest mistake is to make it too small, with the result that before the center of the log is reached the V becomes so pinched that the ehips cannot be thrown out, anda larger notch must be started. The width of the cow's mouth should be the same as the width of the log. "This is really just «trifle wider than necessary, but ic is an easy rule to remember and a sale one slvays, Actually, 8 10-inch notch is wide enough for a 12-inch log, Dbut iis better to err on the wide side than the narrow. “Mark the width of the notch on the log before starting, then begin chopping the V, aiming it at the center of the log, so that when the V comes to a point the ‘center ofthe log will be reached. ‘Watch the angle at which you chop. Only those blows struck at a slantwise ile wil bite in, The picture atthe bottom of page 19 shows it: To swing the ax straight at the log will cut no wood—the ax will rebound and merely dent the log. At an angle of 45 degrees or a trife more the ‘ac takes hold and bites deep. But beware of glancing strokes, A blow swung at iss than 45 degrees is apt to glance off and send the ax Bying wide and far, More acci- dents result from these glancing strokes than from any other cause. A sharp ax hrlps, but watch your angle! Give the ax a little twist each time it hits, to prevent it from sticking and to loosen the chip. Iti this twist dhat bursts the chips and theaws them out- With ex- perience it becomes automatic. ‘The method of cutting the notch changes when the log is more than a foot fn diameter, The plan to follow is shown at B: frst chop a 10-inch notch, then en: large it by knocking of chips from one side of i. On an extra big log, enlarge it by chopping chips from both sides of it as indicated in C.MISERY WHIPS Inve re couneem the loggers spend many more hours a day with their “misery whips" than with their axes. Indeed, to all who work around logs, even if cy easily, the act of sawing Is every bit as important as that of axmanship. The large logging saws are of two types—the two-man and the one-man. The two-man ersicut sa (usually referted to merely a a croscut) has @ detachable handle at each end, and a its name implies, is operated by two men, fone at each handle Some have straight backs, and others have swaybacks, but the colting edge is aliays tound-breasted as show in the drawing While these can be had in length from 5 to 14 fet, the usual sae i 5 fet. The handles are attached bby sipping the loop over the end and twisting. A twist and a jerk will move them, an essential feature, fr in felling trees the handle must be yanked off fa « fash ‘The man in the picture (ight) on page 23 is using the one-man croscut sa¥, called a cedar saw because of its use in years past in cedar logging, These are 3% feet in ther standard size, and resemble jn appearance an overgrown carpenter's saw. In addition to the typical saw handle, a supplementary handle i also pro- vided called a point handle, which can he attached just above the regular handle, fr atthe end of the saw so as to make a two-man saw of it, or lft off altogethe. Such sasts are used in felling cedar and other small softwood tees, and in bucking. ‘thom up. In recent years they have been largely replaced by the how-saw (page 26). ‘The standard tooth patterns seen in erosscut saws are the tutte tooth and the perforated lance tooth. The tutle tooth is more wiely used, ‘fh Teer apes BUCKSAW (oppe: et) For sawing firewood CEDAR SAW (wppersight) One-man cosscut | for bucking softwood TUTTLE JOOTH CROSSCUT SAW (eight) § i, Sn City lh aN ee y = eee CEDAR SAW i BOW-SAW (bottom) | PERFORATED LANCE TOOTH For plpvood ewting and small log workDON’T DRAG YOUR FEET rss ne as inp eongh ch singles han handing an at tou dag Jor fete ee Sopa wah any Elevate the log if possible so thatthe end is free, Noten the ples on pgs 2 tht oporing os pled uneath Boa oe sow Ths vets ping, Bs te weg theless th kr eigen te sa ese land dive nege nck weve tng Semorina sf he Spe wae ou tend ose Thick back da al sa 5 Sue kesne en he nw for ato. {tea gn sny, wi ft vl oat Schl hey towed yo wg oven ods el Xeon esam. Pulser ou that and hing mae det positincthtyourparners johns a od Eres ou pros wd Ont acd soley ted thr your arms fora yn wth hse hse, outs ene put ese nd donot wees foe I down pll with jot enh dwn mpl ep thea ta on @ Karp the sights af at «sigh, etn ed Crooked he pnd Whe the ev begs plc ive a weg nthe ke When ts may hgh wl pba plc ayo, wedge o to wedge nln ager inne Ths eo ck ear of that flowin gh nd he dope OLD-FASHIONED BUCKSAW ‘A nvcxsaw is used for bucking up small logs into lengths. Is an intimate partof the woodpile that feeds the stove and fireplace, fo the making of Srewoad it one of the buckss’s chief functions The time-honored bucksaw with ts familiar wooden frame, which has graced. the woodpiles of Ameria since pioneer days, is seen inthe hands ofthe man inthe photograph (upper left) on page 23, Its wooden frame is collapsible, assembled in five minutes. The metal rod across the top is equipped with a turnbuckle, and by (isting ths the blade can be given the necestary tension. The blade should be stretched with all possible tension $0 as to remove all play. Blades not properly tightened tend to buckle, vibrate, rattle and chatter ‘Time changes all things, and while the old bucksaw has served well these ‘many decades, iis fast giving way to the modern bow-saw o Swedish buck-saw described in the next chapter, with its metal frame and is fastr-cuttng teth, 1s chief shortcoming rests in the blade with which it is usually equipped and with which it works best, which has a series of simple V-teeth, This cuts wood all ight, bt not with the zep and zest of the bow-saw blade with its coarser teth, ‘These more highpowered blades can be inserted in the bucksaw, but the wooden ‘frame often has difficulty in providing the necessary tension for them, Styles change slowly, however, and the old bucksaw will doubtless continue ‘to make firewood on the wondpiles of America for many along year to come, But its usefulness confined to the woodbpile, while its faster-amoving offspring is cap- ble of going out tothe woods 0 fell trees and tackle all log work on timber upto a foot in diameter. Roof Bin sy (Stroct Brce Steight VToots ii well, for use om all timber up to 1s superior merit rests fst in is frame, which ‘in its frame, which is of hollow exceedingly light, and gives terific tension to the blade, But fre ‘wood, which lead usto the second point of superiority, the busines ting blade, which isthe nearest thin . itzips through timber. As compared tits savage teeth, the Vt "fot in ies atthe stamp eel bing nt do not at sedge ofitsct ig toa buzz th speed andensethhich ‘eth ofthe ol syle men boggy days. But this aks us ack te Fane sesn, foraless powerful frane wold ge he necsaty revere erful tt, Bute kaown hat thee are severe les of fee ee tooth patterns, some better than others. A tooth pattem ps Ne ream shold be Sly Bed in minds tha cer 12 hat canbe real the kris to lear ou the sad nthe ket is known athe Buchman This type of a vasosy led owe, Sued so, upd a (oF in the vernacular of the lumber camps, a ic ered PS, & Swede fd, but to those who use it ‘These bow-saws came in vi replace the oldstyle bucksaw for cutting Stewood, The own wat atc n th Ame : to th Amer woods em Svan nth 180% mealies hag Sle Ba supreme in the pulpwood camps, PSUSMAN PATTERN FOUR C7. 104 hese! ITS TEETH NEED BRUSHING ‘Tux emer norris you see sticking ot of a logger's hip pocket contains coal ‘il (kerosene) to be squirted on the saw to Tubricate it, and to cut the resin in ever- greens. The neck of the bottle is filled with straw or pine needles to make the squirtet. The hip-pocket habit is a bad one, however, because the pants get wot and this chafes and ierltates the skin, The better way is to wire a hook on the nock “The thin stiip of wood you see on his erosseut saw as he goes to work is & saw guard, which performs the seme functions as a sheath on an ax, mszaling the ‘harp teeth so that she saw can be caried with safety, and protecting the teeth from ding dulled. Be sure your saw is equipped with a guard when you buy it, and keep the guard on always when notin ute. Make one if need be, by cutting off a %-inch, strip from the grooved edge of a pece of tongue-and-grooved lumber. Sav, like axes, noed sharpening regularly, but walike axes, they re- quire the experienced hands ofthe Old Squint Bye, The logger who uses his saw constantly brushes up the teethat least once a day, and tums it over to a7 hg the Squint Bye for « complete shargening at last once a week. Everyone 24” af should lero to brash up the teeth, but the how of ti a story oolong tobe Bre eee told here—take your saw to an expert sharpener and watch him work—ack questions, and learn. se The daly touching up avaves two process: Fis, the rakes (page 28) must be shortened oF jointed, for it is necessary that they be a shade shorter than the cutting teth, in crosseut saws perhaps 1/64-inch for softs wood, and 1/100-inch for hardwood. This is done in « ssh with a raker ‘guage which when sett the proper length is slipped on the raker and a fle run over the endl of the raker points. Next, each tooth is sharpened with a inch mill le, care being taken to retain the original shape of each, Complete sharpening involves, in addition, setting the tooth or bending them to the side. Proper setting is very important. Softwood requires more set than hardwood, and if one's ssw does not work prop ceil, it probably does not have the proper set for the kindof timber being sawed. Setting requires special tools and skill 1) or.4 OTHE LON NOTEH t ft Oren OTHE MK 00 0° UNDERCUT FLLLWG NOTH 45 A HINGE FELLING WITH AN AX 1, Ft, cutthe front ste or undercut, cous mouth asthe Tumba call "The ree wl fal in the duction of th not The width ofthe notch shouldbe hal the wiih ofthe tee_merh I belong starting. When the notch comes wo poi, the te shed beet sag tos pit the te hold be et haley 2. Next cut the bck atch dey oppose the fit and one t ‘wo inches higher This the fling nth that wil send the oe oe lig down ica in these way, and jut bere oes to poe the te wil go catingdovn nthe decton of he fae ah, 8.In chopping the notches, the same routine flowed as Sa chopping «log onthe gourd: there th rule wae hgh lw, nd ne idl" her ts ner far, din the mide The et coon he near si the second i th fr sidan the thd os many ove a cet, nthe mide, alvaye woking fom the sides ard, ee tge 14). Fist chop the top elge ofthe notch inthe wy selene Bottom isthe botom stake that remove the chips, andthe rol betwisted with each trokesoas to bunt the chip 4 Gut there a owas posible igh stumps waste wood 5. Iisa bigtee, the nth cat a nthe once dong by chopping two small notches, then Inocking ot the ok meshed 6. Inthe way ofthe lmberjeks, keep your mouth ope ile 2% you swing, and grant HAs the ax hit Ths hep you aed sed others sons tel. WOTCHMG A BIG ONE THE BRIDGE SERVES i i a WHICH DIRECTION? cine Wm nmRZTION to el tre require study ofthe ree ist, and of the suonndingsfor each ee shoul be felled according fo plan carefully worked ont before blow i srk 1. Drop ina clearing posable. The worst is that i get lodged in ether es for he tsk of recing i wl ten be dfeut and hazardoos Do nt at tempt to drop It betwee: (wo tees standing cle together boat the branches are ap to interlace and ld ifs I there are tes fn all eto, flit to ward a smaller one which wil be apt to give and lt the tree bump through and doom, 2 Almost every tree has a slight sn, or has more foliage an one sid. Drop tin that ection i pose 1s the dren in which the rewind © fall enyoay, and advantage could be taken of thi, One cannot determine the lean while standing under. Got away fom it, walk around and use your a= Band ara plumb ine 2. Drop th the wind if pole ven slight bree ext rest pee sure on te, or the folage ats as a huge sll a catch the wind. Hf his i in porbl, and ia big toe and the wind is ting, better wait for «camer day 4 In what direction do you want to move the log when down? Fl? sin that direction posible. Swinging slg nthe mods it ey If there i very lege and heavy link extending out low on one sie, avoid eling the tee in tat deton, for i should fall icy on this tin, the trnk mey break at ts middle. The sume thing may happen should the unk fll ety onto a large stamp or rck "hese are the factors then tat must be con sidered Ifthe tee ie stright and symmetrical, i Stands ia a clearing in ll directions i thee sno wind blowing, and you do not intend to move fin 2 prt recto, makes no diference where itis felled, But when one or more of thee futons enter the picture, ddsons mst be made before the i edTHE BRIDGE oT @ SAW THE 474 WNDERCLT FELLING CUT y SERVES AS A HINGE a | FELLING WITH A SAW 1. Fr, chp the notch or undereut The ew alin the dice on oft et Ths oth shouldbe oefourth the dlmetero he re Soe rer ye 2 Nec at eawing rely oppose the noth and one or wo ince above th lowe uc oft. HOH theo eve with he nd 9 that when the te fall the top ofthe stamp lb fat. Brber has aad toh ae sigs ef poor verianship CL smen are ang, thsi axomplshed by each man elg ts the svn frogs the uber finches beteen te sw andthe notch ob de When one cll his number th other answers ith as, and fone eter vay thn th other the sa imme adjusted, 4 To aval pinching keep the sw soll straight fits allowed TB, \, ben oc wit a dead pinch may renal In eting big tree, pinching can | Barber Clos os couse be expected rom the sheer weight of thee, ane wedge wl be "Pees cutting ceded to spread the kerf 7 5. Jast as the tree starts to fall, withdraw the saw and move off to one : side. too his witha tworman sow, oe man units shale sd lip 1a off so that the other -an pl the saw through as he turns to leave PB 1 6. Cutthe tree asnear the ground as possible. Itishardertosawdown low but i saves precious timber. IF THE TREE LEANS 1. Tr rae sac stanns Penrecryy STRAIGHT, It should be felled as already described. 2, Ifthe tree has a slight lean in the direction of the fall, tf felled exactly as if it were straight 3, Ifthe tree has a heavy lean in the direction of the fall, special caution is necessary: cut a deep notch, at Teast % the diameter of the tre, then extend the noteh to the aides of the tree, making the winged notch pictured ‘on page 34. Be careful not to carry the wings past the middle ofthe tee, however. Such leaning treesarenotori- ously dangerous~they are prone to split up the trunk be- fore the sawing is completed, thus imperiling the worker (see page 85). Cutting the notch deeper and extending it to the sides reduces the danger. It s usually safer to fll such trees at an angle to the lean if possible. 4. If the tree leans diagonally to the direction of the fal, the saw should be held at an angle to the notch in the way shown in the diagram, The bridge is thus made narrower on the leaning sde, and this tends to pull the tree over in the direction desired. Ifa wedge isnecessary, {should be driven from the angle shown. 5. IF the tree has a sight backward lean, it can only be folled with wedges, if at all, Notch and saw as tual, and drive the wedges in deeper and deeper as the sawing progreses. Ifthe tee has a heacy contrary lean. {it cannot be felled away from the lean at all. All leaning. tudes are best felled at an angle wit oAGoNAL LEAN.‘Tnaxs D0 o£ Lonce, in spite of all that can be dane to prevent it ft hap pens in thebestof families and isnot always an indication of poor fling. Pertcu larly in the cedar swamps and the dense evergreen woods it an ever-present worry, where the stif ranches refuse to bend to let the tee crash through “There fs no foolproof way to fee a lodged tee, always sure to work, but ' these are the lines ofatack: 1. First, try shaking it by pushing against the trunk: If it starts to g, get cout of the way fast. But dont clin up it! That i a timpaton that always seems tole the greenhorn, and often to his gre, for many a man has een injred that sway, It's futile anyway, for if shaking won't fee, climbing i probably wo't | 2, Tf the bat i stil esting onthe stump, asi usually the ease, ry prying St off with a gale or by forcing the blade of your ax under it '. If tsa small ree, grab it by the butt and drag it directly away from the sopportng tee. But for safety: sake, take hold of ita the extreme end only, and dio not it the butt more than «few inches off the ground, sort of sling along Whatever you do, don’ get under i. For big tres, use a team oF a tractor. 4. Felling another tre across it will sometimes free it The tre should strike it as high up a8 posible. Never fell more than one tee on it lest a jackpot be created, which nothing shot of a team of horses ean untangle 5. Ava last resort the supporting tree may have to be felled, but this is risky—be sure to stand on the safe sid, and give it plenty of room, Never leave 4 lodged tree up. Tt then becomes a widow-maker and rnay come down unexpectedly on FREEING A LODGED TREE | ' t ‘some innocent pasterby. PUSHING THEM DOWN Big trees are felled with wedges, which is Just another method ‘of pushing, and if there is the slightest question of the tree not falling in the right direction, wedges should be used without fal ‘Trees under a foot in diameter, especially evergreens, are usually pushed down with the body. The savring is stopped just before the tree is ready to fall, leaving 2 litle bridge of uncut wood, then it is given a push, either with the arm or with a pole. This is always safer than continuing to saw clear through, for the bridge serves as hinge to guide the fall in the desied direction, ‘A very small tree that stands perfectly straight may be pushed byhand as inthe picture, by straight-arming it wth the arm at shoulder level and throwing the weight ofthe body into it. As soon as it starts to-go, step quickly to one side, It is easier and allways safer, however, tose a pole, because the pole puts the push up higher where i realy ‘counts, and permits you to stand farther back out of possible danger, Al tees over six inches through, and all tees that Jean, should be pushed with a pole, never by hand, ‘The pole should be held at an angle of 45 degrees, which isthe angle at which the greatest force can be applied. A series of short shoves to get it swaying is better than a steady push. Pulpwood loggers carry a pushing pole for the purpose, about 2 inches thick and 10 feet long, often with a pike (spike) on the end of it, but any similar pole eut on the spot will do, This same pole may be used as 2 measuring pole for bucking up the logs. ‘But mark this: You may fall and be hurt if your pole slips off the tee. Sharpen the point and work it into the bark before throwing your weight on it, and be careful“T-I-M-B-E-R” BEWARE ean awar evenrnie from erund the tee before you start to work-evry branched sap ling every tian ce, sar asthe x con reach, Check by swinging your at In a cle over your head, then ina Sele pall othe pou I jour tx could a ch a touch the tp a ranch, ina be defected so us to hurt you badly. Nvies often stright nto chop with ter dogard fet the danger tht hark in every igs such fol hardness at ewes aecdets Tbe the ell echoes though th woods wherever lglg going onthe danger ell at ars that ate about tera, Never alto gor is even if you fel sre you are lone To all odo ‘0 serminal nl ‘When the te Begin to sway, move few yards to oe sie oft never back behind frit In Kk back, and never ron away fom Step to tne equ and keep your eye o the te, You now where it suposed fll and if you are to ene eof and cls to you wl ae plenty of time to move it shuld age dein, Bat i Journ avay to where its branches could it you You nay ot be abeto gta. Beware alo of danger that ks gveead whenever ees are being flledthe foo kes or wldow-maters, age limbs het hanging im tees, which ay cash dev at ny te and with call of “Timber for warning Keep ancgl ey out fr then, and dont work under them ‘alin ee may create is ovm widow makers town branches brea Ings goes down, Such bande are wally how ack 50a ofall neat he Stamp or behind t Keep your eve onthe trunk long enough fo make sure oft ecto of al the ook upward for he widow makers ‘Asai ree ean wally be depended upon to fall scheduled, 29 5 ots hl or ated oe. Always give the ee the ax ttt So iF itoounds bellow. If soa winged notch should Be wed fall, A WHGED NOTCH SHOULD ‘Wing BE USED OW A HOLLOW TREE \ | WATCH OUT FOR KICKBACKS Ye, math for Kel Try tpn, bu en in hey come ihe pe ead ee tice aay, The km dogg ten oy Sane Supe tom ten toe pT hymen tev Saeed ee tt ling Wetec do nt ot hppe by hance, They al hve ina hte cata be pte hy en ttt tezottaed Aesop lexbeckune ie low wands Wifes ther re flings ohn css be eto bnnce partied fy eked este, BEWARE OF LEMME ‘When there is a possibility of the tree striking another, be doubly 79665 - 74/EY MAY SAL/T cautious 2. Ifthe tree is felled up a hill: When the branches strike the ground they spring the tree upward and gravity shoots it down the hill. : 3. If the tee is sawed below the notch: When itis sawed properly, an inch or two above the lower surface of the notch, « litle shoulder i left on the stump which prevents the tree from slithering backwards. To sav low is to invite a kickback, 4. If the trunk of the tree spite before iis ‘out through: This happens in leaning trees and those with a hollow center-beware of them Re: member that such trees should be notched with a winged noteh, But the main rule is, never get behind the tree. TREES FELLED "ss UPHILL OFTEN KICKBACK,THIS WAY ~ LOPPING THE BRANCHES ‘Wars rie razz is wow, comes the task of lopping off the branches~a lng jb ofa short one, depending upon how gifted one is with the ax. Here is where deft axmanship counts for speed and for safety. These are the rules which the timber- wise and the experienced follow: 1. Work from the butt ofthe log up tothe top, cutting on the undeside of branches. There is good reason fr this, for were it done the othe: way, with the ax swung into the crotch WOT THIS: WAY ofthe branch, the bark would ripose below the branch and a second swing ofthe 1x would be needed to cut it An exception is found in the evergreens, where the ‘bark seldom rips, and the branches often extend downward anyway. 2 Always branch from the for side of the log, wih the log segaraing you from the axthis for safetys sake, fr the brenching i fraught with hazard. Yo 0 other task is there such constant danger of the ax glancing of 3. If the log is so big you cannot reach over it, trim of the top fst, then stand on top and clean up the sides. 4. Cuteach branch flush withthe log, leaving no stub, Stubs make the han- ling ofthe log dificult and dangerous 5. Use both hands on the ax, however small the branch, 6. Intrimming evergreens, the dead branches may be broken off by hitting them with the butt ofthe ax or with a pole. Such hard, bite branches may dull the a, if chopped. Care should be taken to knock the stub off clean however. BUCKING UP Arren prancunne cons nuckine, which is fawing the log into the lengthe desired, It should be done on the spot and as soon asthe branches are lopped. First, get the log supported on something so thatthe end is elevated. Nest, measure the length exactly. Saw logs are usually cut into lengths of 8,10, 12, or 16 feet, and these are measured with a measuring pole caried along for the purpose, But pulpwood logs, which are cut into 4- or 8-foot lengths, are meas: ved with the saw itself, which is so constructed as to serve this purpose. When the ‘aud of the 344-foot pulpwood saw is hooked over the end of the log, the end of the Ihandle will measure exactly 4 feet, and this ends also useful for seratching the mark fon the log. Ifthe saw is of an odd size, a measuring mark can be scratched on the framo and used as indicated n the drawing. ‘Now to buck up: Take long even strokes, 3s near the full length of the bow- saw as possible, putting your body int it as well as your arms, and keop a steady shythm—good buckers saw atthe rate of about 60 strokes per minute. % helps to rock the sew, dipping the end downward and backward—this helps to clear out the sawdust, ‘The main hazard in bucking is in placing the hand on the log to steady it. ‘Saws do jump when the kerf is being started, and many a hand is ripped open that way,i PUREPLACE LEWIS ; STOVE LENGTH THE BUCKER’S HORSES Ax-Tue came woovore we can have the assistance of N, sawhorse, which is great convenience over propping the Jog up on any old support. Sawbucks are of many types, bat they all do two things: they elevate the log to a convenient ‘height for sawing, and they prevent it from moving under the pressure of the saw. [Note the one at A. This is the commonest type. When a sawbuck must e tossed together in ahurry, make it as shown at B. Two poles are driven in the ground to form the X. A makeshift sawbuck can be quickly made as at C, by driving two poles inthe ground to form the X, and wiring them together. The upright post driven in the ground just back of the X helps to steady the login that it gives you something to pth the log against with your foot while sawing. ‘An excellent sawbuck for big logs is shown in D, made of a inch pole, along the top of which a numberof holes are riled for the supporting pegs. Big logs are rolled up onto the Dorse, Hiandiest for sawing long logs into lengths are the lum. Derjack sawhorses shown at E and F That at E consists of skid-poles leaned against a log, up which the logs are rolled into the notches, That at Fis more permanent, with notched Dlocks spiked to the foundation logs, PEAVEY AND CANT-HOOK Most nosaenic op occ 70015, they are to the lumberjack 4s the lariat is tothe cowboy, yet few people outside the timber country seem to appreciate their uses or the difference between them. Firs, the cant-hook, sometimes called a log-wrench, or in the slang ofthe timberjacks, a mooley cow it a movable hook or dog on a wooden bundle, used for tuming or rolling logs. The process of tura- ing the log is called canting, hence the name. The handle serves as a lever to give the hook great power, so that one man ean turn a log that otherwise would require many men and much straining, How does the peavey differ? Only inthis respect: it has a pike cor steel point on the end ofthe handle, as in the pictare, Tis is bocause the peavey is employed in faridling logs in or around the water, ‘whereas the cant-hook is for use on Tand. The pike or point is used to push the logs as they float inthe water, thus making the peavey a sort ‘of combination of cant-hook and pike-pole. The peavey can, of course, be used on land, and often is, Buta cant-hook would not do inthe hands of the viverjockies who ride the booms end biel the logs and break up the jams jn the vivers-there the pointed end is indispensable. The _peave} get ts name from Joseph Peavey who invented it in 1858. (One does not really appreciate a cant-hook until he i called upon to move a large log. Like the wrench isto a bolt, thete big hooks grip Le, and tum that which hands cannot grasp and arms do not have the power to mave, Their uses are many, and their absence would make the moving of big logs wellznigh impossible. Peaveys tnd eant-hooks vary in length from 24 to 6 feet, 34 feet being best for average use. They vary also in the shape of the point on the hook, the best-known pattems being the duck bil, round, diamond, and chisel, of which the duck bill is the most widely used, and unless otherwise specified, your ceant-hook or peavey will probably come in that pattern, WSEL = DIAMOND ROUND DUG BUL Fa‘FoR PULPWOD ow FROZEN GROUND RlGE on "CORD" oF STOVE WOOD \j CORDING A cono is A UNIT OF MeRAsunE Fon wood, in thé same way that a gallon is for gasoline, or a bushel for potatoes. A cord is a pile of wood & feet long, 4 feet high, and 4 feet wide. A riok, on the other hand, isa pile 8 fect long, feet high, and of whatever th the woud happens to be cut. Stovewood, for example, is usually cut 16 inches long, and a pile of it 8 feet long and 4 feet high, would be a rick. To be @ cont this wood would have to be piled three pieces end to end, so as to make the pile 4 feet wide Pulpwood logs are usually eut into 4-foot bolts, and so a pile ofthese 8 fect long and 4 feet wide would be a cord. In some sections pulpwood is cut 8 feet long, in which ease a pile 4 fect long and 4 feot high would be a cord, In other words, a cord is 128 cubic feet. In popular usage, however, the word cord is often used to ‘mean a rick. Thus a pile of short stovewood 8 feet long and 4 feet high is often referred to as a cord of this wood. Although incor rect, this ute of the word is quite widespread, and in some sections of the country the word rick does not seem to he used a al ‘Wood should always be piled 4 feet igh, so that by meas- uring the length ofthe pile one can tell how many ricks or cords there ace in it. Ths isthe most convenient height anyway. ‘The easiest way to stack stovewood isto eriseross the ‘end pieces, thus making a slid supporto hold the pile secure. For longer wood, such ay the foot pulpwood, the usval sathod is to drive a picket in the ground at each end of the pile, supported by a pole propped against it. If the ground is soft or swampy, a brace is pot across the top instead, notched to accommodate the tops ofthe pickets. Long logs, if few in number, may be bunched in low piles, oto which they can easily be swung, If many, they may be either rolled wp onto the pile on pling skids, or swung, up on a piling jack, This jack is made from a @:inch pole, notched with ladder steps about 18 inches apart. By leaning it against the pile % from the end, the log can be placed in one of the notches and swung up.THE HANDY PULPHOOK We ser mre rnronea. sll steak that serves san exten of he frm fn seaching out after logs. Tis jst tout the handlest gadget ever lavented for working around sal logs, and to the prulpwood logge, worklog in smal tinker ashe doe, is aot a Teportant asa and saw thence the mane, puipook 2A glance atthe pletres wl india ts many Uset—for pling vp logs, for swinging them around, and forsaking them to you: for carrying short bls endfor throwing tem tothe ple Tes» snap f0 tesa log with hook, bu ilo beave the unwed thing very far by hand_the hook gets more distance and greatly Seproves yours. The woodman who adds pulghook to his ott saver himself much stooping lifting reaching, handling, an wer and ear on the human frame. ‘A hook tha blot point gps the log beter, and safer. File the point of fiat toa thickness of about inch A pulphonk isto be respected, for it dangerous crow shout cael. Hang it up when not in we. And beware of jabbing into the side of log ort apt to glance of and stab you let bites into the end of log but shies of the ide ‘An ax sometimes ued do the work ofa pulpook, bo tis cxovdingly dangerous practice, tnd hat cused many and many ap Accident: An ex thud never Be wed fr iting, snaking or tring Puphooks canbe made by any bucks, inde res made tn the logging cape, They arent on the market. One ofthe most tiling of role events isthe logdbrowing contest with pulpock se page 81, CARRYING LOGS 1's mzancy 4 jon for a team of horses or a tractor, but if necessary a log can be hauled out by hand —and without any tools if need be, although the come-alongs and skid ropes dé scribed in the following chapters would be a great help ‘Toothpicks or slender poles can often be dragged out by Hooking your arm around one end and walking forvard, If too heavy, they may be moved by swinging them end for end, that i, by picking up one end and swinging i forward and dropping it, then picking up the other end and swinging st forward, To do ‘this, however, the log mutt be in the clea Big logs up to backbreskers (over 14 inches) in size can be carried on skid poies placed crosswise underneath asinthe deaw- ‘ng, Several men then pick up the log by means ofthe skid-poes. But watch your footing, for if a man should stumble and fall thereis grave danger that the heavy log willbe thrown upon him Forthis reason tis never wise for fourmento carry alog, because sf one falls the og is almost sure tot him; with six, there is hope that it will be held up by the remaining two men on that side ‘The front men who can see the tral ahead should warn of very root and boghole underfoot, and of every widow-maker over- head, inthe latter case calling “Headache,” which i the himber- Jacks’ warming that an overhanging branch is at head bumping level and must be ducked. If the ground is level enough, the log may be rolled on the skid poles instead of carried. Place the skid poles crosswise and push the log forward, bringing the back pole forward when- ever the log rolls of it In lifting a log, never bend down and hoist t by straight- ening up for this places undue strain on the muscles ofthe back, and often causes back injury and hernia, Squat down and lift it with the leg muscles.COME-ALONGS ‘Tay ane vamousLy caLLeD come-alongs, lg-hooks, oF timber-cariers, and {for moving a log, they have anything beat short of a team of horses to skid it. These ingenious devices for carrying « log by hand consist of 2 pair of dogs or hooks set ‘opposite each other lke icetongs, and hung in the middle ofa long handle, so that when the hooks are clamnped on alog there is a convenient handle on each side by which to litt. ‘There is nothing like having the right tools with which to work. Handling 2 log with a pair of come-alongsf 39 much quicker, safer and more convenient than carrying it on skid poles, The hooks ean be applied in a jifly, and when the log is lifted sti carried low, just off the ground, so that if « man should trip ana fall there {sno danger ofthe log falling on him, whereas with skid-poes it i held high and clfers grave danger in case of a fall. There is just one thing to watch: when the ‘hooks are clamped on make sure they are firmly yet ‘With a lugchook clamped on the frontend, two men can swing a log around and even drag ita short distance although dragging is heavy work. A pair of hooks, ‘one at each end, will be necessary to transport it, perhaps more, depending on its “The hooks are equipped with a swivel so that the handle can turn, which is ‘4 great convenience in going through « narrow opening, as for example between two tees so clase fogether thatthe ends ofthe handle would hit fit did not tur, age SNS ‘oa SaSKIDDING Iw Tr Logcine canes it would be done with skid-chain and a caterpller or a team of horses, but this is not a book on how the big outfits operate. Rather it sa book on how you and I can get the job done with ‘whatever happens to be at hand. If a rope i hhandy, three or four men can skid out a pretty big log on level ground, and itis lot easier than carrying it. If a team is available to pull it, so much the better, and the ar- rangement of the rope would be the same Its done with a timber-hitch ted as in the drawing, which knot is famed for ts‘ability to grip even a slippery spar. The timber-hitch should be applied near the back end of the log, and a simple hitch added at the front end, the purpose of which isto guide the log as it s being snaked along the ground Rough ground will hamper any skidding operations, but on smooth ground the log will come right along, Indeed, as a race for speed, skidding ts ane of the ‘most thrilling events for young men in a logger’ roleo, as described on page 81 ‘There Is danger in snaking, however, not to those who are in front and pull- ing, but to anyone walking Beside the log, for logs have a vicious way of jumping. sidewise when they hit a bump. Many a loggers leg has been broken in this way. Always walk behind the log. In skidding with a team the driver i often foreed to walk beside the log, but he should remember he is taking a grave risk and be cautious ‘A log will skid more easily if i is nosed, that i, if the edges at the front end are rounded off “The easiest way to get a log up a steep hill by hand is to par- Dbuckle it. The arrangement is shown in the drawing-hang the rope at its middle around a tree atthe top ofthe hill then put the ends around the log so thatthe log rests in the loops. By pulling on the ends the log will come up with surprising ease. UTMBER-HITCH SWAKING BY MEANS OF A TMBERH/TCH PIKE-POLES ‘Tue rasuesr way 10 Move Loos isto fot therm. The lng way round by| CURYED} |] STBNGHT, || BILE waters often preferred 0 the short way AMES b wot OMY 14 by lan. If here isa current the logs will take care of themselves and travel on their ow, with jst little shove now and then to keep them headed right, Here is where the pike-pole comes in, the long erm with which the riversjockey reaches far out over the water to push and to pull the strays int line. For pike-poles are long and slender, ranging from 10 to 20 feet, and are exceedingly light. A pike-pole is just what the name implies~a pike (spike) on the end of a pole. Most of them have a hook in addition, the hook for pulling, tnd the pike for pushing. The three styles are shown atthe top of the page, the commonest being the curved pike and hook. If the stray log cannot be reached from shore, the jockey leaps out onthe floating logs, and jumping from one to another, goes right out to it. In this bust ness of riding the logs, the pike-ple serves another purpose~it isa sort of balanc- ‘ng pole, helping the ride to keep his balance, expecially while bitling or spinning the logs, as desrbed inthe next chapter. ‘Tn Rating logs in lake, without benefit of current, a oom is formed by chaining a numberof logs end to end to form a large circle which surrounds the mass of los and holds them together. The boom then towed by pull boat, When the river is reached the boom is broken and the logs turned to oat. 4BIRLING Duar May ne PART OF THE Wonk-A-pA¥ LiFe of the log jockey on the rivers, but i 8 also one of his chief sports at the roleo, related to it as the brone viding isto the cowhoy’s rodeo, While one can have fun on a log barefooted or with tennis shoos, he can't go fa without cals, the shor spikes riven inthe soles of heavy leather shoes. Size 000 is used except on Douglas fi of the Pacife Coast, where size 00 is preferred, ‘The best biting logs are of cork white pine, but any straight smooth soft. ‘wood log will do, 20 inches in diameter, from 12 to 16 feet long. Bark it and smooth itup.A balancing poe i also needed, mado from a 14-foot cedar sapling, 2 aches thi, Start by just standing on the log until you fee at home. 1f balance is dificult, tue the pole with about one foot of the far end in the water. There are two funda ‘mentals of bisling-to rll the log, and to snub or stp i. To sollit, face sideways, crouch a ile, and start treading slowly. As the log turns it will tend ty take you down the back side of it into the water. Watch these things: (2) Spin if slowly™speed can come later. (2) Keep your eyes on the end of the log (8) Stay on top the Jog, always using short quick steps, (4) Maintain a slight stakes nthe oun A sledge woul baler the loss the posts and srl ruin hemor the bee wi do, Tet no peblem to make one alough the help of & Mackamith wl be need to put onthe ton bands Use| irontoood if possible, even if you have to hunt far for it, | btherws some tough hardwood to witand the severe Tatterng wl rece ant fora woe measuring oven | Tacs the but and et of jst at ground evel | ting the but forth beetle hed ecase the wood toughest there. Shape io the dimensions shown have R=@™A tng te ends dow crfly, nd then havea can sik he ron bands om the ens The vecfoot bade shuld be of ronweodor and rely wedged sta arg as fencoponts cn uly be deve i he beetles he round very bard or rocky. eis nh eal han digging posts, beleve me Tes prety hard toms the pot withthe big beet, batt play sae have on parser bl t nth bet green branch a in he dain "The chi equine fort pst that twin dasa. The Bist woods are white cedar red edar, Mack lot, chest and nage onde, thee lstng from 18 t 90 years. Good ao. are taatack pres, beneck white ea, and Binck vat, which hve fe Span up to 18 Years, TF the bottom end ofthe posts dipped in a bucket of exeosoe, ts ie wll ve greatly ners. Orin he way of the bacwonds the ends ean be cared in the caplet preven cy.CHOPPING BLOCKS We wowtn SPEAK MORE ACCURATELY to cll them splitting blocks, since they are used in splitting stovewood, but they hove always been known ss chopping blocks so that seems to settle it Tn chopping, one cuts crosswise ofthe grain, as in chopping a log in two, whereas in spitting one euts with the grain, asin splitting a chunk lengthwise, The man at the woodpile who swings his ax at the end of a chunk to cut iis half is therefore not chopping ‘wood, as the common expression has it, but spliting wood Best of all chopping blocks is the Y-shaped arrangement shown in the drawing, best because it holds the chunk of wood upright and steady, even if is end is aot sawed square, Hunt around until you find the justright fork of solid, tough hardwood, such as sycamore, elm, sugar maple or oak, The branches of the erotch should be sic inches in diameter; less than that they will do litle good. Trimmed 2s A, the block can be sed as i, although it would be handier ifthe top were fattened as in D to provide a lat surface for cutting small stuff. To do this, cout a series of notches as in C, then chop off the sections between. Sometimes a chopping block is seen with » slab of wood nailed across the end as in D, but this offers few, if any, advantages. {A section of a large log split fn half may be imbedded i the ground under the chopping block, Bat sie up, so as to prevent the ax from striking the ground, but « good axman will not fad this necessary. If one only has a litle wood to split now and then, he can improvise a block by laying one half of a round chunk on the ground, fiat side down, as seen on the opposite page. But for # permanent woodpile,« permanent chopping block is well worth the effort to make in the safety and convenience it afford, ‘Near the chopping block ako should be a kindling block, made from a stump-shaped section of log stood on end, a great ‘convenience in that it brings the work up to a handy height. sn Miter SPLITTING STOVEWOOD Ser Tax noun cone o¥ sN0 in the chopping block (A), [ifthe ax over the right shoulder and bring it down with natural swing, sling the right hand down the handle just as in chopping 11 dogs (page 18). Just sit hts, give it slight twist, throwing the Dutt or pole ofthe ax to the right—Figure F shows the ax just as, ‘eis hitting, and G after the twist has been made, The secret of splitting rests right here in this ttle twist: It spreads the split, acting 2 fulerum on one side and forcing the other side away, thus throwing the two halves apart. It prevents the ax from freex. ng shoal the chunk refuse to split, and it prevents the ax frora {going through into the ground should the chunk split readily, When split in half, place one of the halves in the block as in B, or if it will not rest solidly, lean it against one side asin C. ‘When Jeaned inthis way, always work from the far side, never on «the near side with your foot against it. That is so dangerous that no one but a dub would dy it. Its just inviting a ext foot Round chunks that will ot stand on end showld be Kuned {in the crotch, or in @ notch chopped in & log ‘A tough, knotty, emery chunk can usvally be split by cating off slabs from the sides to reduce it, IF not, use a wedge. Never stand a chunk beside a large log and attempt to split ‘tas in J, for if the ax handle should hit the log it is apt to break, or at least to jar your hands painfully Tf the ax freezes in a chunk, do not try to wrestle it frde, but strike the end of the handle a sharp blow from underneath withthe heel of your hand,GETTING THE SHAKES Shake, copboards pts ayo ny costa cal thm they ar thn tends spt fem Tog at edn place of Single on oo Theat felting them i welligh st saeeept nang» few otters ofthe back county ho same lang yesterday of sgl ving Yet an 8 Shll to eam and tgand one to no ll ofthe glamor of srpner dye anacing of re woosmaship. A weal oe 10, pe npake al mae te mot pitreque tot fra abn o hack and ae ae dopendable a any that can be hd truncal wich can be made by any Baksh irom te pte The blade tou be 12 t0 1 ice long, Then sbapend frit suse more a wedge hana bie Jamal hand al 15 inches long ao needed Mach dapends upon nding the stig te. Norther chit cedar Bost ated Tor theese fr which ps, ad enone dusty ofthe shakes made of Good, ko, MS neous, the pines oth white and yellow, and lp, Bat yal woe ofthese vats wild. Lock fra big tre, the Digue the beterthe Meal sve i two fet sm ameter but Ee agn we may hve to acept 4 smaller one Above all ee aig rin: ok for ove a ates saght 0d nea tat fee ram kes, and ta has ight bor, Be'fanowe of which go agit op the wee-erosked. bark aly ndeatscroked gain the tes mets thee resi Son tabula be worth ying Clapods ae 310 38 aches in Tenth Saw of «38 tach sco, stand on end and pitt nal ery cael, I oping your ox gry to ake a groove etl ar Med nt pt Now sit the lx agin nthe sre ten sl the quarters anes more The og now aye ig sts, and ech of hese sould be spi once ent fo ar Mnetett bt pe ig more. The bolts we now have should each make four or ore clapboards ‘The heartwood at the log’s center must now be spit «fi from each bolt by placing the ax crosswise of it and driving it with the maul "Now rig up a supporting rack to hold the bolts while ‘working on them, a5 shown in the drawing. Note that the bottom of the bolt rests against a brake, such as a stump ‘or another log. This brake should not only prevent the bot- tom from sliding on the ground, but should be so con- structed as to prevent it from slipping upward when one presses down on the other end, Stand the bolt in postion, take the froe inthe left hand and maul in the rghit. Place the froe across the exact snidale of the bolt, along one ofthe rays of the wood, and tap it gently until imbedded, Then ey the maul down, grip the bolt with the right hand, and work the handle of the {roe with the left so as to spring the wood apart. Split each of these halves again in the same way, and continue thus ‘until the bolt is reduced to thin clapboards. Dilfculty is encountered when the spit tends toron ‘out to one side, rather than going straight, When it starts to rum out, lay the bolt on the supporting log with the thicker side down, slip your hand inthe split above the roe, ppilm down, and press down hard with It, thus forcing the thick side down onto the supporting log. Now work the froe handle up and down, which action should cause the split to run back into the thick section again. IF bolt tends to run out when spht from one end, turn it upside down and work from the other end. It was Horace Kephart who fist described this miethod of the backwoodsmen for straightening a crooked split, and as he has pointed out, ¢ is right here in this process that the real skill of the shake splitter rests. For anyone can split a straight-pliting bolt, once he has caught on to the tricks of the foe. Only experience, using the method described, wll develop the know-how to make ‘good withthe tough ones. Clapboards are, of course, thicker om one side than on the other, and will vary somewhat in thickness, but this will make no difference so long as they are fairly uniform, SUPPORTING RACK aiSAWED- INSTEAD oF NOTCHED HEW TO THE LINE “Tue suarnsc oF Loos wert ax ox ADz isthe art of hew- ing. One will not live long in the woods without the need for Ihewing, even if only to flatten a log for a bench or seat. Who 1 not looked with admiration upon the logs of some ancient cabin, square-hewn by the woodsmen of another day? Or upon. Ihand-hewn beams on which the marks of ax and adz still lend their charm? “The ax with which the profesional does this job is the ‘broadax. A mighty weapon this, weighing 7 to 7K pounds, with a blade @ full foot wide, bevelled on one side only. It isa tol ‘only for the expert, needed only where hewing is a busizes ‘Any good ax will do the jo. First, remove the bark, and then mark a line along the side of the log to guide the tx Do this very carefully with a chalk-lne, stretched very tightly between two nailsat the ends, taking pains to smooth out all rough spots on the fog so that the line les fat and even, Chalk the line heavily, or if necessary ‘lacken it with charcoal, and snap it. Make a similar line on the ‘other side, and then strengthen the lines with a Iumberman's crayon. This is what is meant by “hewing to a line.” ‘Now chop a series of notches afong the top of the log, or if skillful enough with the ax, merely gash i, as in the draw- ings. Or if you prefer, saw it instead. Care should be taken to extend the cuts as near to the line as possible but never be- yond it [Now elevate the log on sawbucks. Knock out the wood between the notches, and then, working very carefully, shave st down fatto the line. Keep your ax very sharp, hold it short, and take short careful strokes. Keep your eye on the line, turning the log occasionally ana working from the other side, If you work this way you can, with ear, produce as smooth a surface as ift had been sawed. ‘Another method of hewing is with an adz, described on. page 61. WITH THE AID OF AN ADZ Best von unwine sats. maenen 2s aN ad, a tool made {or this purpose and this alone. The adz isnot so prevalent now- ‘adays, no isthe ability to handle it, but the person who is eager for the skills of the woods will do well o look one up and catch ‘onto the hang of it Like the ax, the adz is a tool for chopping wood, but it difos in that it blade is set at right angles to the handle. It is + Beveled on one side only and the blade is slightly arched. A | conspicuous characteristic ofthe adz i its square or rectangular ey sive nite to the term adz eye a the nam forall such square-comered eyes whe | verthey ae fund. | i Tung th ads, one straddles the log and swings it downward between his i! Alz EVE legs. It will eat away the wood with remarkable ease, Its slightly arched blade pre- ‘vents t from biting in too deeply, or removing too much wood. It leaves the small chip-shaped indentations ot tool marks in the surface that are one of the chief charms of hand-hewen timber. i ‘The ads isan efficient tool but in the same breath it must be sid that itis a = dangerous one, particularly tobe respected. The very position one assumes in using ‘tmakes it hazardous tothe legs. The leg, therefore, should be spread well apart, and the adz handled with great caution on each stroke Only after long practice can it be treated casually In hewing toa line, after the rough work is done hoist the log on a sawbuck and shave it carefully either with ax oF adz ‘There are several types of adzes. The common one, and that best-suited for use on logs, isthe carpenter's ad ‘These can be had with a halt-head or a fulbhead ‘hand adz can be improvised from asmall ax head ‘as shown inthe drawing, iSHAVING HORSE “Tus ot Horse oF sue viowrens {sa log device for holding a stick while tis being shaved down with a drawknife, It grips as firmly as any vise, and you can st down while you work! One should be had wherever rustic work goes on, ‘To make one, three logs are needed, 10, 8, and 6 inches thick respectively. Let us hope they are cedar, otherwise some softwood. Saw off 8 feet ofthe largest Jog and spit it in half. One ofthese halves isto be the main bench. Get t standing on ts legs, 24 inches high at one end and 12inches atthe other, drilling the egholes with a 2inch auger. Then cut the rectangular hole shown at D. ra A Now from the 8:inch log, saw off a piece 27 inches long, spl in half, and shape one ofthe halves as shown in C. Note that it remains full thickness for a dis: tance of 8 inches, then tapers tothe end. Cut the hole in tof the exact size and shape ofthe one in D place it over D, and peg in place by drilling L-inch holes. Next, from the 6:inch log, saw a piece 25 inches long and shape it into the clamp shown in B. Note that ata point 8 inches fom the top, the Tog issawed to form ‘ square shoulder, and that the wood below it is then cut away tothe rectangular shape shown, Tnsert the clamp in the horse, and dril the hole forthe pivot peg (¥ atthe top of the page), To do this, place a 2%-inch block beneath the shoulder ofthe clamp to hold i atthe proper height, then diill a I-inch hole through both the bench and clamp. Remove the clamp and enlarge the hole in it slightly so that when the L-inch peg is driven through, it will serve as & pivot permitting the clamp to rotate. Inseat the clamp in the horse and dive the peg. Finally, insert the sirup pegat the bottom of the clamp, shown at Z, and the horse is completed. If desired a green branch and a string can be applied as in the drawing, to hold the clamp open. Mount the horse, insert the stick fo be shaved under the shoulder of the vise, place your feet on the stirrups and push. This clamps the shoulder down on the stick and holds {efast, o that you can go attwith drawknife crooked knife, hhunting knife or jackknife.4 SSS —— L.. 7 al ROM ASAW BLADE ag ae Cit fo cbieLocingy St fr lng STUMP cane aa cf oy TT { + Vb | ofa gees unlngtelled thee eat rom he pend. Splt the toe le e with an ax and mal pry open and set the stick tobe worked on. “This will grip tight enough for slmost any purpose, but if more CROOKED KNIFE presure is needed, apply a tourniquet. That wil squeeze i unt he ep oozes out the top! Hens 8 Tur warrruine xvtr, the drawshave, and the gouge of the North- \woodsmen, from New England across to the Pacife, and ss far north as men live, learned from the Indians and Eskimo before them, who made it fram bone or cop. per before the days of steel. Where tools are few, i isthe right knife to have. To learn the knack of itis to possess one of the good aris ofthe woods. Grooked knives are held with knuckles down and are pulled toward you, awkward movement at frst but rewarding in the end Use an old 7-inch mill file or piece of saw blade, The method of making is clear in the drawings. Note that itis beveled only on one side, as on a drawhnife. ‘The bevel is caried back half the width of the blade, Be sure you bevel on the right side~study the drawing, A blacksmith will bend and temper it, Particular care should be taken in shaping the handle as shown. The blade is bound to the handle with a wet rawhide thong which shrinks ast dries. ‘As shown the knife is for a righthanded person, Reverse it if left-handed,BARK SPUD BARKING Bank CAN BE PexLeD vany xasiLy duriag the sap-fowing months of the spring and early summer, but only with difteslty thereafter. If peeled logs are wanted in quantities, they should be peeled before the dry stretch of summer sets in. Winter-cut logs will not peel until they thaw out inthe spring and the sap lft in them comes to the surface. AAs a re the bark of semmer-ext logs can be removed only by shaving it off with a drawkoife, and that isa long and dreary job. Of course the different kinds of trees vary inthe exse with which the bark will peel at any time of year. White ‘cedar, for example, peels at any time, and shile the bark will not slip in summer ‘it nevertheless seldom binds fast. White pine and Norway pine, on the other hand, ‘cannot be peeled at any time of year, and must be drawshaved, Bark can be peeled with an ax if necessary, but the proper tools spud, as seen in the drawing, The hook at the sides used for ripping the bark and the Bat end for prying it loose. This spud is used when the bark is tobe ripped off and dis- carded; if tis to be removed in sheets and preserved, the wider and fatter cedar spud is better. AA spud can be made Indian f on from a green sapling. Cut of a two- foot length, work one end of it down wedgeshaped, and shave down the handle to St the bands, Logs are often peeled where they are eut, which hhas the advantage of leaving the bark in the woods 50 as not to liter up the campsite or yard, but i has the ‘one big disadvantage, expecially in the spring, of leav- ing the poles so slippery that they are extremely hard to handle, load and havl. If possible, leave the bark 1 until the logs are un location, ‘Thus far we have assumed that the bark is pecled off to get rid of it, but sometimes itis peeled in order to get the bark, with no immediate need for the logs s for example, in making a bark wigwam, or berk shingles. Then the need is for large sheets of unbroken bask, which can best be removed from standing trees, ‘This becomes a serious matter, for stripping the bark usualy Kills the tree. Never under any circumstances should the bark be touched in » park, summer resort 6 populated area, and never any place without the ‘owners’ permission unless far back in the wilderness, Weel) vez, ed WIM) STRIPPING BARK KILLS THE TREE — — never do it unless you REALLY MUST have ths bark J and even then we should always ask ourselves, “Do we really need this bark?” Moreover, the location of the stripped tree should be remembered so that later on the tree can be taken down and put to use ‘The bark of white cedar is preferred above all others for making shelters, Select Yexge tees, the larger the better, and those that are symmetrical and free from knots. First, girdle the tree around the bottom as in A, and slit the bark upward as far as can be reached. Then girdle it at the top, but since this eut i overhead, it can ‘only be done by holding the ax at an angle, making the zigeag cut shown in B, Pry ‘open the vertical slit with an ax, and then, working very carefully with a spud lest the bark be spit, force the sheet loose all around. If there are other valuable sheets higher up, fell the tree to remove them. Otherwise, the tree cen be left standing nti the logis needed. A tree a foot in diameter will produce a sheet of bark three font wide, and a tee of twenty inches, a sheet upwards of five feet wide. Place the sheets on the ground in the shade, inner side down, and lay logs across them to keep them fat until needed In another book, Wooderaft, I have described how to make bark shacks and wigwams,BRUSHING {Ir nvex YOU WILL APPRECIATE THE PROPER TOOLS itis in cleaning outa brush thicket or bri patch, A little of it can be done with an 38, but the right equipment will kep your disposition sweeter ‘A sapling of size would, of course, be cut with an ax. Bend it with one hand so as to stretch one side of it and give ita slantwise cut as near the ground as possible, If one clip doesn’t sever it, bend it in the opposite direction and repeat on the other side Smaller stuff calls for a brush cutter, of which there are many types. The most widely used and probably the best, everything com: sidered, isthe Brush hook. Its hooked blade is afoot long overall, and 4s attached to a full-sized ax handle. Brush hooks come in all weights, corresponding tothe weight of sxes, and asin the ease of axes the three: pound size is preferred by most men. The fact that one can stand erect ‘and swing it lke an ax gives it wide advantage over the hand brush ‘hook which is nothing more then a big hook-bladed knife. ‘Care should be taken to cut the brush a¢ near the level of the ground as possible, so as not to leave the sharp, stiff stubble so annoy ing underfoot in eutover brush areas. This stubble, when left, can best be removed with a grub hoe or mattock, but it should not be left in the first place, ‘The brush ax isan ingenious tool with a blade that sits Bat on the ground and a handle that extends upward at an angle from its middle. Sharpened on both edges, it is swung back and forth in front of you much like a grass-whip.Itis capable of eutting the brush at the exact level of the ground, leaving no stubble at all, but it lacks the seach of the brush hook. Another brush cutter is the brush scythe, set up Uke a grass scythe, but shorter and sturdier, attached to an ordinary snath or seythe handle, and handled asin cutting grass, Success with a seythe requires experience, and those not familiar with it will fnd a brush hook more to their liking, ‘The caimper’s preference in brush cutters isthe trail knife~an HAND BRUSH HOOK t | f ' k i oversize hunting knife with a 10-inch blade, caried in a sheath on the belt. This is really « combination knife and hhand-ax, capable of cutting brush, felling saplings up to several inches in diameter, and spliting small firewood, ‘These big knives bring to mind the sil larger machete, of which there are endless patterns, but the typical machete is more effective on cane and ather softer vegetation than ‘on brush nce the brush is eut, an ordinary hayfork or pitch fork s best for gathering it up and piling it. Small brush is handled in much the same way as hay, and requires the sume dhree-pronged fork with 12-inch tines. Indeed, forks find many uses in the woods, For example, in eleaning up chips, bark leavings, log trimmings, and the other wood debris around the skid-pile, a seoop fork is ideal, such as the barn fork shown inthe drawing, o a manure fork. How to dispose of brush and slash is always a prob- lem. In the old logging days it wos left lying where it was cut, but nowadays orders are given in each logging opera- tion for its disposal, depending om the needs of the forest— orders to scatter it uniformly and leave it to rot, or to pile it for buming-this much to the disgust of the old-time lumberjack who can see no poiat to tidying up the wilderness in this way. But the forester, with an eye to the well-being of the trees, sees it difler- cently, Brush should be burned only in a clesring, ‘and on solid ground with all debris cleared away, and then only after a rain, A burning brush pile should never be left unguarded. Indeed, burning bbrsh is one of the commonest canses of forest fires. Such a horrible thing is a forest fre that no ‘man's conscience eould be at ease if he felt himn- self responsible for one through carelessness. TRAIL ENIFE OR CHS ANO BARK.CROWBAR Zonrs ¥4 | Wedge Pinch PIKE GETTING DOWN TO ROOTS 1 rae wosteess oF sour 10015 to work inthe ground but the ax is not tone of these. Tf the tools forthe job are not at hand the temptation is strong to use the ax. The moral is clear—a companion to the axis needed to take care ofthe dirty work. That tool i the mattock. We see it in the picture: t has two blades, one hoe-like and set eross- ‘wise ofthe handle, and the other ax-like and set in line with the handle. Both sare of softer stel so that they will not chip, yet have teeth enough to cut all smaller roots. Working inthe dirt is the mattock’s business, its hoe blade loosen- {ng and raking it away, and its ax blade taking out the roots. In the woods the mattock is more tobe desired than a pick, which serves no purpose other than to loosen earth, Only when attacking extremely hard packed earth would a pick be needed. The pick-mattock is a combination ofthe ‘two, with a hoe blade on one side and a pick replacing the ax blade on the other. It, too, isa second choice for working around roots, where the ax blade is more useful than the pick. The mattock is often called a cutter mattock to ciferentiate {t from the pick-mattock. A grub hoe is « half mattock, capable of doing rough heavy duty, but lacking the root-cutting blade ‘The woodsman who has much clearing to do finds his best tol in the mat tock ax, variously called a Pulaskt, clearing ax, or forester’s ax. This is a full ‘grown ax of high-tempered steel for chopping, with a matteck blade extending ‘out from its pole for grubbing and loosening the eatth. Such a high-powered ax 's, of course, more efcient than a mattock, but, by the time token, it must be FORESTER'S ) CLEARING, PULASKI oa MATTOCK AX XN N G ? on CRUB warrock Gyre 3b. handled with all the caution due any ax in working in the ground Ta digging out a stump, the earth must be removed for some distance around so to expose the roots, For this a ound pointed shovels needed. A spade {smere at home inthe garden and around the lawn than in the woods, excellent for cating sod and “spading,” but not for shoveling earth As wth everthing ee, there sa Hight vy anda wrong way to shovel Hold the end ofthe handle in the righthand, and grip it near ite mide withthe left: Bend the left knee slighty, place the et hand on tp ofthe let thigh, and hold the right hand lot in tothe right hip. Thrust the shovel into the earth by leaning, the body to the et and forward. This utilizes the weight ofthe body and relives the arms and back of doing all the work, When the shovel is lifted, the handle is ried against the thigh, Pre fo dg stump out completly by hand is considerable ofa task for one must go deep, digging » hole large enough to get atthe undemesth roots with ax cad mattock, After the large side roots are cut, a stump-puller suchas deseibed in the next chapter wil be appreciated ‘A crowbar is particularly useful in loosening earth deep down in a hole ‘which cannot be reached with mattock or pick, sin digging a hoe with a psthole digger. The point ona standaid crowbar Is wedge-shaped, but a pinch point makes 4 more versitile tool of i, especially useful in moving objects because it eases to force undemeath. Such aba soften called pinchbar ROUND- BORED SHOVELTAKING THE STUMP Avvone can oxr rinncs done with all modern machinery to help hin, Tt would be & breeze to rip a stump out with a caterpillar or bulldozer, or even with system of pulleys and a team. The important thing isto figure out how to get it done with what tools are at hand. In the woods those tools are apt to be few and simple, ‘The mallet stump-puller shown below can be made anyplace, and it increases ‘one’s pulling power by six. This jumbo mllet has a head 80 inches long and 18 Inches wide, made of white codar o other softwood for lightness, since very little strain is placed upon it But the hantle should be of wood tough and strong, such as hickory, elm, or ironwood. It measures si inches thick and sx fet long. Place the head of the mallet as clase to the stump as possible, withthe handle ‘extended upward as in the picture. Wrap a chain around the stump and then stound the handle as shown, stretching ita tight as possible, for precious power is Tost with every bit of slack, To the top ofthe handle attach a pull chain atleast 12 feet long the end of which is hitched 0 the team. As the handle is pulled down to the ground the stump is turned up over the mallet head. It is as if six teams were pulling it ‘What if there is no team? Well, group of men can pull it~six men multi- plying their power by sit means that 96 are pulling, and that is considerable pulling power. In that case arope should be used instead of the pull chain [the stump is too large to pull, dig the dir away from around itwith a mattock and chop the larger roots extending tt the sides. As it is being pulled, a man standing by with an ax can facilitate mat- ters by chopping any large roots as they become exposed. A device of this sort is, after all, designed for use on small stumps. Large stumps usually cannot be pulled at all but must be dug or blasted ‘The eastest way to make the hole for the handle inthe mallet hhead is to bore several holes with a 2-inch auger and then chisel out the wood between them. To make the handle secure, bore a hole in from the side of the head and peg it MORE POWER TO YOU Hones aoun OF oer tur scan ht ves one man he eng cf may. Cape of pug a stump o moving henry eed rea be qucly aged up wa tol of a ood seg ape top earth stamp td anchor the oer nd te, Fad a sicinh geo of tut ight fort of nd reno the bake Midway betwesn ‘evn ne snl stot oot dao no de cg Che Oe og and geri to revolve Atarning pole abt sift ng now Stoled Twat te toe once sound the upright post an shove he pale rough {he oop ashe inthe petre With oneman a each en fhe ol star ur tng the pos. roping the ope sound and sroond "Pas wach crete great over, and wherver power ested there danger, Something mst give and inte sump tr may e he ope. Be sre of sont pe tha ts amply Svong, and apy presse slowly, ie by Ve tl {Re wunp tums over, Vislnc wre tangy When topes beak wd: tason yy ety snd can jr ever sats tha the rope ser othe ump, wl ld even wen te stunp begins urn the stump al tnd ges good sac, + unbordtch may be wed A beter way fondo pei torn the rope ovr thet, citing a grove fori to rst and age rot on the fr sie TE the rope comes lore i as bad si boas. Be suet ct all large surface ros bole ating seat le sucha RY8 Ta noADs pwixpLe DOWN 70 LANES, and the Janes to cowpaths, and the cowpaths fade into the deer “ad® tacks of the wilderness, but still the automobile con- tinues to function. Far beyond the roads end in he log- ‘ging country, the “walking bul” makes the rounds of his ‘ut-camps in his coupe, and the delivery truck earres supplies to the kitchens, Not on roads in country wet and swampy at times of the year, for roads would cost too much ‘and take too long to make, but on board tracks do they travel. Wherein rests a plan exceedingly practical in all such situations. First, the swamping crew must clear the way of stumps and brush, then a skid-oad is laid by placing skid-poles crosswise of it at intervals of five feet. On these skids or “ties” the plank track is Iaid, made of one-inch boards a foot wide, and placed just far ‘enough apart to accommodate the wheels of an automobile, as shown in the drawing. On the inside of these boards, a curb pole 's laid as shown to prevent the ear from running off the track, these poles being four to six inches in diameter, That is all there 58 to i, and it is done easier than in making any other kind of a road. Of course it sa one-way road, but iti usually used only for short stretches, a between the headquarters camp and the ‘camps, and if longer stretches become necessary, side tracks are lid at intervals 2s on a railroad to permit the cars to pass How are the automobiles getten into the bush? The logs ‘must be gotten out by some means, and that isthe way the autos ‘come in. They may be floated in on water, or they may come in ‘on the main line, a8 the logging company's railroad is called. In the latter case, an attachment is added to the wheels of the automo- biles so that they cam travel on railroad tracks as well as on roads. CATAMARAN ‘Tue rmounne win a RAF® Is that you can't go anyplace with it. You might ‘paddle or poe it afew rods out from shore to fish, provided there is no wind blow ing, but i is too clumsy to navigate. The catamaran shown above, however, will take you there, and faster than you might think, for once It gets under way it clips right along. It was such made-on-the-spot craft as this that took the ploneers and woodsmen across the lakes when necessity demanded. It wll de the same for you ‘The construction is clear in the photograph, From cedar or other softwood, make it nine feet long and three feet wide, with side logs eight inches thick. Wherever the logs intersect, square shoulders should be eut as shown inthe drawing. [Never cross large expanses of water with this or any small raft unnecessarily Especially beware of big water with a flat aft, fori an offshore wind should carry ‘you ott, you would have no means atall of controlling it.YOUR AX IS YOUR KNIFE One cers ax-NaNpeD 28 ue woons and seldom thinks of his knife. The ever-present ax does it all from chopping logs to sharpening lead pencils to cleaning fish, And it takes care of any rough planing that needs to be done alto! The more whittling ‘one does with his ax the more certain he becames that a knife | ‘is an unnecessary adjunct except for very fine work, and even for that the ax should not be brushed aside too abruptly. It is the case of getting the hang of it. (Of course itis assumed that the ax is sharp. There need not be any difference in sharpness between knife and ax. ‘A good whittling grip fora hand-ax is with the thumb on the pole as in the drawing, A large ax is better handled with two fingers across the blade, a position often used on a hand-ar ‘alco for very careful work, Grip the ax tightly to keep it under absolute contol and, if at all posible, place the end of the stick on some solid object to steady &. Keep your left hand well be- hhind the ax and your knees where they belong. ‘You willbe surprised what a good plane an ax will make when held as in the picture, and what a good drawknife, too! But be careful in using it asa drawshave because you are mow | ing it toward you-take short, jerky strokes and grip it tightly. | Grp for A HANO-AX USING AX. AS A ALANE a ‘A uncst ro str ox and a table to eat from are appre- ciated even in the roughest surroundings of a temporary wani- gan. A few small poles naled toa framework might do for both, ‘but more woodsman-ike furniture will result from slabs or split Pigs, as the slab benches are sometimes called, can be made in short order once the materials are at hand. It's merely a case of pegging in the logs, for which a twovinch auger is needed to bore the holes. After the log is whitled to ft, its end should be split, then driven in and wedged. When the wood dries out, the log will loosen and will need to be replaced. A better method, if the slab is thick enough, is to use a blind wedge: insert the wedge in the leg beforehand, so that when the leg is driven in, the wedge is foreed into place. When the leg loosens, merely drive it in farther. ‘A table may be made from slabs or half:logs at shown. Wherever two round surfaces come together in log construc- tion, they should be flattened s0 as to provide square surfaces. { BildBACKWOODS PLUMBING Hor waren s atways « ppopuene 29 TH wins. On &camp= ing trip the best one can do isto heat water in the largest cooking Pot, for washing dishes and toilet use. Jn a more permanent or fixed camp, itis good to have hot ‘water on hand more or less constantly. This can be done by placing ‘an old-fashioned wash-boiler over a trench fre as shown above, keeping the lid on for quick results, and hanging a bucket near by for dipping, Another aad better arrangement is to use a large oil drum with a faucet attached as shown, placed over a trench fire, The Dung on the top can be left open permanently to allow the steam to escape. A keg with a wooden faucet is good for drinking water. Indeed, the loggers often take litle kegs containing about two gellons into the woods with them, with a handle attached to the Side for carrying. WATER BOY Bevos Tite PALE oF Tae WATER PIPE AND FAUCET goes the ater tank on wheels, and beyond the roads the water bucker takes over. With a yoke on his shoulders, he gives himielf more hands with which to haul, and saves himself many stops. Shaped as shown, the yoke is of a inch board, wellounded on the edges for comfort. The suggested dimensions may vary somewhat with the sie of the maa, ‘The ropes are short enough so that the buckets on them ride above those carried in the hands. When the buckets sway so as to splash water, they may be steadied with the arms, or by bending your fingers under them as you carry the hand buckets. 20" WATER YOKEto the other end and repeats. the ends extend fre, Each pair of contestants saws of «ik frm the end, and the low time wins. Pole-chopping Contet—Usepoes 8 inches thick, cat into 600 lengths all F of the same species. A handas i used. The man chopping though Sst wins, Gi the choppest mpl room, forthe event can be dangerous nthe excitement Log-chopping Contest~Tis i he eandard chopping contest. Use 15-inch logs cut nt 30-nch lengths. Mount each bolt on crosswise choca x shawn. The sxmen chop fom on top the lg, cuting a Vn one side, then timing to ext the other sie. The man wins who fist cts his log cleanly. The notch may be outlined svith rayon beforehand, and footolds ent. ‘Skidding—Teams of four men anake o drag slg with rope 100 yards aguist time, Te log shoul be afoot in dinseter and ton fet fg, to which the rope is tied witha timber hitch as described on page 46. Pulpwood Throwing Contest~In thie the loggers atch their ln throw ing bts of pulpwood ih ther pulphooks as pictured on page 2. The target is small ee 15 fet frm the throwing line, Use foo bolts of softwood, ext fron inch Yop. Wack man throws three bolts, scoring 3 pins foreach hit onthe By, and 1 point foreach hit on the fist bounce Birling Contst~The log andthe skills ae decribed on pages 4648, The two jockeys mount the log, one on each end, balancing poles in hand. At the signal “Throw your pols” each starts bring and snubbing in an efor to wet the other while he hinsel remains afoat Spiting Conte! all on the sie, while sting and talking things over. No other breed of mer bave such poclvites for distance or acuray, oF ae more wont to rove To ake a contest of ita bean or cherry stone in the mouth helps the judges and improves the sanitation, There are two contests, one for distance andthe other for accuracy witha in canst fot distant asthe target GIVING "ER SNOOSE IN THE ROLEO Comes nouxo rm and the loggers gather from miles arounel, to sit with old friends and spit and gossip, to recollect Paul Bunyan history, to prove their bush- ‘hacking worth by shaving with their double-bitted axes, and above all, to match thelr might with all who come in the logging events of the day. Hlere are typical contests ‘Bucking Contest—This isa contest to see who can saw a Jog with a bucksaw. fastest, Use an 8-inch log, from which a 12foot section is cut and rested on two savbucks, one at each end, The buckers take tures, sawing against time as the stop-watch clicks. Because ofthe faper inthe log, each man, is called upon ta saw off 0 pieces, oe from each end—having sawed one, he runs quickly Two-man Sawing Contest—The log should be 12 by 15 inches in diameter; the saw « two-man erosseut. Mount it on skids so thatNAILING DOWN THE SIZE ‘Tut size oF NaILs is expressed by the word -penny, the abbreviation for ‘which is . Thus these are stopenny vais, threepenny and sa.an up to tenpenny after which the sizes range asin the drawing, up to siztypenny. Beginning with the ‘wopenny, one inch long, the sizes ineeases by one-fourth inch with each number "up t stteenpenny, after which they inerease by one-half inch. The hrgest is the sietypenny, six inches long, after which comes the spikes. ft is not necessary to remember all the sizes—fix the tenpenny in mind as three inches long, and from that you ean easly name any other size you want. Other ‘good sizes to have in mind ate sispenny (2 inches) and twentypenny (4 inches). Spikes range in size from 7 to 12 inches, and are usually ordered by length, rot hy number, The 12-inch spike is much used in log work and is often referred toa a log spike SPKES D. H. HILL LIBRARY Ge Be aNi LOGGING LINGO Dackbreaker, ‘albhoote, Dang juice, barber char, Daten, bear,» bet belly gas, Sowin teard eo tog comp Sono m boom tome bowsews = boys’ as bridge, Drier, road, broader bridage,n Docker, Duck, bbuckoro, bucksaw, bug. boll, Dall bucker, ball cook, bullpen, n. ballpen boy, bollwacker,n. [Abig log, uevally more than 1 ches damete. ‘logger who sls logs down hillsides, -Astamp with «high projection lke the back of «chat ‘Aatbottomed boat pointed at both ens, used by the sver cxews in the 1g dives, ‘Toback a tee down in amateurish fshion ‘Alage wooden mallet vied im driving posts and wedges “The curve in a ax handle. Big trees Ging to cows wo ele ‘A seaight gained te, stable fr rving ito clapboard ‘camp sear a swamp. A piling jack ‘A tnass of foting logs held together for towing, ‘One who des logs a the water, and rafts ther In ooo ‘bucks with 4 bow-shaped tea fame ‘Aso "Sweduh say,” “Swede Bde” “pulpwood sv” ‘thre quae weighing 2 pounds, witha 2Binch handle ‘The narow section of wood Which remans unc i eling a tre, and which breaks a the ee falls A croscut sa. Also “misery whip” “Swede dle” ‘A lage a, the Blade of which is beveled on one side only ‘sed i atening logs, mang es, ete. ‘Acre of teen (One who buck or saws logs into length. rawlock 1. To. lps tat lengths. Alo “og of.” 2, Tocamy anything, as to buck water or wood, ‘One who ride or bite Logs the water and rafts them in toms. Alo “ogocke.” “buck,” “ever diver” ‘hand saw for Bucking wood. 1. A lantem made by inserting candle ima ole inthe side of atincan 2 A aotem of any pe The camp boss o fret. Also "boll f:the- woods” ete. The head man of acre of fllers and bucks. [A cook’ helper or choreman ‘Abunlhoue ‘A bunkose caretaker, Also “eum,” ‘An oten driver, Bunyan boy, m E um the stick bushel cap eye, ‘aim Inspector, n can't cuter canthook, cat.skinmer,n cedar sw, cheat stick, chock, choke strap, clapboard, cactler, n come-along,n cold deck, cold skiddingy © cord, cow's mouth, erostcut rosscut sawn cxown fires m cruiser a, ‘To pile logs in small ples, Abed patter. ‘logger. Alto “brush, “rosn-belly,” “sawdust savage.” ‘Toslide down a pole ‘To cut logs for pay by the plece rather than by the day. (One who bushels; plece worker. A horse ‘A logger. Also “brush-at,” of “ape,” "Bunyan boy.” The trunk of a tee from which the branches have been twimmed of. Camp watchman, ‘A logger who never works long at one fb, moving fom camp w camp. ‘To tum logs with a cant hook Cannot do. also “cant wack’: ‘A tool caning of a metal hook or dog on a wooden handle, ‘used in handling logs. Also “logswrench,” ‘mooley cow” ‘One who operates seaterpller tractor. ‘A one-man eroscut saw for cutting small loge. A log-sealer’s rule. ‘A block or stone put under a log or wagon wheel to prevent it frcan moving To place an dijece wader a lag oc wheel A necktie ‘A thin board split from a log, wed for boarding oF roofing. ‘The camp clerk, Als “nk-singer,” "pencil pusher.” ‘A tool for caring logs consisting of a pait of hooks hung in the middle of « handle. Alo “lug-hook,” “vimberarie.” A storage pile of lo Skidding loge out of the woods at some future time after they te cut. They are piled when cit to await hauling operations later on. See HOT SKIDDING, A measure of wood, 8 feat long, 4 fet wile, and 4 fet high ‘Arnotch chopped ina tree to fell t,o in log to cu tin two, A croscut sa ‘A large saw for sawing logs crosswise, often used to mean spe ically a two-man rosscut saw. Also"brier,"“misery whip,” ete ‘The top of a tee A forest rein the tops of tres. 1. A timber cruiser. 2 Acruiser Ax A doublesited ox of the three-quarter size, weighing 2 pounds, with a 28nch handlecrumb, n crue, uf, 0. deacons seat, m Aeadhead, n dead man, n dead log, Alng-dong, m doll baggy ‘donkey pancher, doublet, down log, double barrel, m dough-mitr, drag one's feet, dugout, n ‘eptom salts, faller, 2. fawnfoot, n fal, v fathead, fool Killer, frog, gees Genuize Flmmy, m seta sada bive “er snoose, slut, srandpa, ‘Tease burner, ‘round-hog, Brunt othammer, yppo out, A bunkhouse cartaler. Also “bullpen boy.” ‘A pole used In place of a broken wagon whee, placed under the axle and fastened to the bed 50 that the wagon wil slide. To keep the log in motion, in competitive biling, by kicking sew the feet. 1A large seat by the fireplace in a bunkhouse, regarded as 1 place of honor is understood that it requires a good tan to occupy i 2. A seat on a log at the end of an Adirondack log leasto, reserved forthe best man peeset. ‘og partly sunk inthe water ‘fallen tee. 4 log which vil not Boat, ‘The dinner gong. ‘A two-wheeled cart ‘One who operates donkey engine ‘A doublet ax ‘log that as fallen of is own accord ‘A bunk or bed for to me The camp cook Also “hash-burmer,” “kitchen mechanic” “ulligansmicer,” “tomach-obber,” “sizer” ‘To “vide” the saw or ful to do ones share in handling a two 1. A water-trough made by hewing out the inside of a log 2A boat or canoe made by hewing ovt the inside of a log, ‘The comp deaten. Mao "E. Possum Salt” "Genuine Jimmy.” (One who fells tres, Abo “elle,” “fathesd” ‘The knob at the end ofa curved x handle of standard shape ‘To.eut down a tre One wiho fells tees (Southern). Also “fll,” “eller.” A loose branch left hanging in a tree which may fll unex: pectely. Also “widow-maker” ‘To lotr, loa, or work stlessly ‘A command used by teamsters to tur the team tothe right, "The cump doctor, Also “epsom salts” [Avwarning not to ride the saw, Give her snuif—an exhortation to work hard ‘A wooden wedge for spiting logs. ‘The general superintendent A locomotive engineer ‘logger who works on the ground, A helper A gong for calling loggers to meals ‘small independent logging outfit. Das poundet, m hang, bash-burner, baw m headache! hele, bogges, hot skidding, housewife. Hoh, Inkeslinge, jackpot, n jam ce, > jerk. jerky, m aif,n ickback, Iutehen mechanic, n tive log, toca, ad. lodged tee, logijockey, log of log scale, n log-wrench,n long-but, lop, Tops, Iughook, 1. rman grabber, n, ‘maul, A teanster, ‘The angle at which an ax head is placed on the handle. To place an sx head oa a handle. A camp cook. Also “dough miter fach- robber,” szzer,” “litchen mechanic: A command used by teamsters to turn the team tothe left. [A warning #0 duck your head let you bump it on a branch, ‘An axhandle ‘A ocamative engineer. Hauling logs out of the woods immediately ater they are cut. Abo “hot logging.” A kit of sewing articles for repairing clothes ‘The sound emitted by a logger in swinging an ax; a sort of grunt ‘The camp clerk Also “Johnny Inkslinger” “penell-pusher,” ete Three or more tes felled one an top another, usualy by ace dent, forming pile dificult to untangle, ‘The crew in charge of a log dive ‘To dey thin strips of meat in the Ho Sun-dried meat ‘The space made by a saw ast ets through timber ‘The action ofa falling tree the Dut of which jumps backward cover the stump The camp cook. Also “dough mites” “hash-burer,”“inuligan rier" “stomach-zobber,”eaer.” ‘A log which will oat. Crazy. A Kelle tree caught in nd woppoctnd by a standing tre. (One who rides or bil logs in the water, and rafts them jn booms Also “buckaroo,” "bucko,” “iver driver” “To saw logs into lengths (Southern). Also “buck” A scale or rule that shows the aumber of board fest ia 2 log ‘lio “cheat stick.” ‘A cant hook. Also “mooley cow.” ‘To buck ofthe rotted part of «log as waste To chop or trim off branches 1. Branches tried fen logs. Alo "slash." 2. The branches and tops of standing tres, A tool for carrying logs consisting of « pa of hooks hung in the middle of « handle. Also "timber cami,” “come-along. Savedust, ‘An employment agent. Alto “man-atcher 1. A club-shaped wooden tool for driving wedges. 2 A metal sledge for driving wedges.aikery whip, n sooley cow, a ‘ud he, smule-sinner, rligas-miner, rmuzale, ose, 0 Now you're logo" ic, paycheater, n. peavey, peckerwood mill m. pencil pusher, n pike, pike-pole, ping jack,» pilings inch, n. inh, dead, Pine straw, pitch, pole, 1». polees 8, pole etn Pulphook, Pupwood, pulpwtood ax,» ‘pulpwood saw, m. poncheon, pak 8 push, posing pole, n. ag manson, zamrod, a ‘A roasct saw. Also "Swede Sle” “bret A cant-book. Also "log wrench ‘A swamp worker, Also "swamp angel” Amul driver. ‘The camp coak. Als “dou smechasic”“stomech-rbber, ‘An ax sheath ‘To round ofthe edges tthe end ofa log to facilitate skidding, Also “snipe” ‘An expression of praise or commendation ‘A boot with a moceaste-type sol. 1 tieheeper. ‘A tool for handling logs, sila to a cant-haok except that it has a pike at the lower end ofthe handle. ‘A small portable ssvnall (Southern), ‘The camp clerk. Alo “inkslingr,”“cakle.” ‘A metal point or spike, urually attached to the end ofa pole. ‘Along slender pole with a pike or metal point attached to the fend, used in bundling logs in the water A-notched log leaned gaint log pte, on which lps are sup: ported in swinging them up onto the pile. One ofthe log laid against log ple, up which logs are rolled “The pressure on a sav In the Kerf which prevents movement. A severe pinch in which no movemeat ofthe saw ie possible Dry pine needles. ‘The resin or sap of cextain evergreen tees ‘The hammer surface ofa polo-a, Asingle-bittad ax with hammer surface opposite the eg ‘tie cutter, Also “te peer” "He whacker,” ‘A sll stoel hook used in handling pulpwood. ‘Loge used for making paper pulp, woslly smaller ogs up to = {oot in diameter at the but, of such toes as spruce, hemlock, southern pine, balsam, fs, cottonwood, and aspen. ‘Anak ofthe size commonly used in cutting pulpwood, weighing 2 pounds with a 28-inch handle A bucks with a bow-shaped stel frame, used in cutting ppulpwood, usually 42 inches long A split log wed for Booring, ‘One who blows the horn or pulls the whistle signal ‘The camp bose or foreman. Also “pusher,” “bull” “uncle,” “ramrod” [A pole used in felling toes with 4 sa, to start the fal, ‘tent ‘The camp boss or foreman, Also “ball” “und “push” wk, dge ruane, five, 6 © slverhog, m sosin-belly,n salve-aters sawedut savage, shotgun camp, sidesender, 2. silver-tp, sealer, 9 skid, s.r, skidway. ach, slasher, snoke-ater, m sake, © sip, © soub, © springer, spud, n squinteye, stem, n stick, 2 ‘A roasite foc wood, 8 foot Tong, 4 fet high ao of whatever ‘width the wood is eu. See CORD. ‘A mountaineer. “Fosplt bourse, apboasts ‘One who rides or birs logs tn the water, and rafts them in booms. Also "boom-hog.” “boor-pig” “boom-ra.” A logger. Also “Drush-at” “Bunyan boy,” “bushvhacker” “saseduntaavage.” ‘A snuff chewer. ‘A logger Also “sawdust eater” “beoshrat” “Bunyan boy.” “bshewhacker,”“rosin-belly” ‘forte tre o tre witha double trunk, The cutting thickness af «saw, determined by the amount of bend given the tect, ‘Ain board pit fron og and wed 8 shingle. Alo “dap- bowed” ‘Acamp in which the men work at top speed. ‘A tee knocked down by a tre that is Beng felled. 1 An old maa. 2 A blonde Swede, 1. The ‘camp cook Also. “ough-micer” “hashburer, itchen mechanic” “omach-robber,”“malligan mice.” 2. Astor. One ofthe logs on which logs are pled off the ground. 1. To drag a log by one ond. Also “sake 2, To hau logs oat of the woods by any means. 1. A toed on which logs are skidded or hauled 2. The pat ofthe town freqanted by loggers. A platform of logs on which logs are ple. “The branches and tops of tes trimmed off and discarded in loaging, Alo Tope” A chopper. ‘A forestfire fighter. “To drag ogs fll length. To rund ofthe edges atthe end of log to facltate siding Also “note” Snuf, partclary the type used for chewing, Also “Swed conditioning powder.” ‘Tostog the og from rolling in bring, with one's calked ots. Abt limb ospling that apengs back stright when released {tool for removing bak from logs. ‘ne whe sharpens sas, Ueully “od squinteye” ‘The trun ofa tree A log Spey ugstomach robber, steawbertes,n stump detective, peamp, © sseamp angel, sseamper, ‘Swede Ble, n. Swedish conditioning poser, Swedish saw, swing, © three quarter ax, tine! timber-carir, timber cruiser, travols, 2 turkey, m sundereut, walking bull wanigan, m webfoot, whiskers, n whitewater buck, ‘widow-maker, x ‘wood butcher, m wolf te, wooden wrench, “The camp cook. Also “dough-mizer,” “hash burner” “kitchen mechanic,” “‘uligen-miser” “sizer.” Beans ‘One who estimate the amount of waste in stumps and treetops. 1, To make a road inthe woods for logging 2. To clear out brush, stumps, ete. as in making a road, A swamp eeker, leo “mid hen” ‘One who swamps or makes reas, 1. A-eroseut saw, Alo “misery whip.” “rier” 2. A bowsaw. Snuff sed for chewing. Also “snoose” ‘A tbucksaw with 1 bow shaped stel frame. ‘To move alog by supporting it on an object near one end, 10 4s to rise and swing the ober end around, ‘An ax weighing 2 pounds, with a 28:nch handle. Also “pulp ‘wood as,” "boy's ax” 1. A warning given when a uee is about to fl. 2. Any waming or exhortation to be alert. [A tool for carrying logs, consisting of «pair of hooks hong in the middle of wooden handle. Also “Iug-hook,” “come-along” (One who estimates the amount of timber in an ace. ‘A woodsman. Alo “woodtick ‘Aire in the tops or crown of tres, Also “erowm fire.” ‘A smal tree ‘A skid-rd. ‘A canvas pack or bag in which logger caries his belongings. ‘The camp bose or foreman, Also “bol” “posh” “ramrod.” ‘The notch cut io a tee to fll it in the dested direction, A foreman who supervises several camps. 1. A howsebout used as a kitchen and snesshall. 2. A temporary kachen; portable kitchen 8. The logging camp store. A boom-rat who works in millpord ‘The splinters on the end ofa felled tree or log. {A good boom-at or logjckey. 1. “A branch which may strike oae's headin walking under i. 2. A loose branch left hanging in 2 tee which may fall un- ‘expectedly. Also “foo ils.” 8, Alodged tree which may fll unexpectedly, A carpenter. ‘Alarge tre that robs small tes axound it of light. ‘A woodsman. Also “timber wolf” ‘A log-wrench or eant-hook | 1