Culture and History
sturdier working class. (We always think of the German, for
‘example, as a big, stout man; and this solidity is largely the
result of potatoes, though German beer also helped.) Three,
more and more people were released from farm work and
became available for factory labor. Four, industrial progress
‘meant more income for the masses, better homes and
schools and increasing political power. Five, the rising
standard of living in turn produced an art, a literature, a
science and a technology that have made European culture
supreme in the modern world.
It can be argued therefore that the image today of the
European as a highly civilized, cultured and progressive
individual can be traced back, partly at least, to the coming
of the potato.
But now let us bring in a counterargument. Let us
imagine, say, a German chauvinist who is rabidly anti-
potato. For him, the potato is not a boon but a bane. For
him, the potato is something that should never have been
allowed to change Europe because it is so foreign and
exotic, For him, the potato is to German culture what the
apple was to Adam and Eve, because, by eating of the
potato, the German, the European, lost something of his
original nature, with the result that European culture today
is a deviation from a pristine original: the true European is
the European before the introduction of the potato.
But how restore that uncorrupted original?
Our imaginary German chauvinist demands the
abolition of the potato.
At once, of course, we see the flaw in his proposal.
Abolishing the potato will not restore European man to his
prepotato condition. Why not? Because from the potato
have come such developments as industrialization,
Culture and History
democratization, modernization and so forth. And these
developments have so radically altered European man that
he would still remain what he has become even if he
stopped eating potatoes altogether.
In other words, potatoes are the culture and history that
‘cannot be cancelled in a desire to recover a former
innocence.
From potatoes let us move on
to an ingredient you need when.
you eat potatoes — and that's salt.
Yes, table salt.
One time I had dinner with
some friends of mine: a family T
admire for their nationalism,
although they rather tend to make
a display of it. At this dinner, the
display consisted of using a stone
at the table: a roundish grey stone
about the size of a pelota. This
stone — it was actually a piece of
rock salt — was passed around
instead of salt, because, said my
hosts, that was how the ancient
Filipinos salted their food. You
pressed the stone on your rice and
fish, you rubbed it against your meat, you
broth, for the desired saltiness.
ee
tather have ordinary table salt. In this
tradition versus modernity, I was all for
‘because that stone which, in the name of nation
militancy, I was supposed to use instead of saCulture and History
reminded me of those stones which in the old days you
saw in provincial bathrooms — you know, the panghilod ng
tag. And I certainly wasn’t going to put such a stone into
anything I was going to eat!
Still, I was charmed by the sentiment behind the
display, the nationalist nostalgia. What bothered me were
the implications behind the sentiment. In effect, my hosts
were saying: “Look how truly Filipino we are. Instead of
using a saltcellar, which is foreign, we use a salt stone,
which is native.” The implication there is that the more we
return to what is native and the more we abolish what is
foreign, the more truly Filipino we become.
This may be true — but what I couldn't help noticing
then was the inconsistency. Why pick on the poor
saltcellar? On the table were fork and spoon, which are
not native; and beef and cabbage, which are also not
originally Philippine; and I knew that the food had been
dressed in the method called sauté, or guisd, which is not
native, and cooked in a sartén or a caserola or a fugon,
which are all also foreign. By retaining these while
abolishing the saltcellar, you are practically saying that the
saltcellar is a bigger hindrance to being truly Filipino than,
say, cabbages or caserolas, Anyway, can you blame me if I
came away from that dinner with the impression that the
saltcellar is a bigger danger to Philippine nationalism than
even the U.S. bases?
Of course I know what question was supposedly being
answered at that dinner table with the abolition of the
saltcellar: the question of identity.
Identity, I would say, is like the river in philosophy.
You remember the saying: “You can never step into the
same river twice.” The river has changed even as you step
Culture and History
into it. Nevertheless, the Pasig remains the Pasig, though
from one moment to the next it’s no longer the same river.
This is the dynamic view of identity.
I'm afraid we have a different view of identity: different
becauise we tend to regard culture and even history as static
happenings — and that term is appropriate though it sounds _
so self-contradictory. Just to make it clearer, Vl borrow
Amang Rodriguez’s definition of politics and say that we
Filipinos tend to believe that culture is simple addition,
history is mere addition. We ourselves are, or were, a fixed
original identity to which certain things — alien cultures,
alien histories — have been added, layer upon layer.
Therefore, if culture is tradition, identity is subtraction. All
we have to do is remove all those imposed layers and we
shall end up with the true basic Filipino identity.
That is the static view of identity.
But culture is not simple addition. Culture is not
which you can add anything and it will still remain a stew. _
Rather is culture like those laboratory experiments in
original mixture becomes completely transformed into
something different,
When history added the saltcellar, and fork
and beef and cabbage, and the guisado, to our culture
identity of the Filipino was so completely tran
there can be no going back to a pristine r
abolished the saltcellar, the fork and
and history are the flowing waters |
step into the same river of identity
religion and politics and art and lit
a view of culture. The saltcellar is