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Our journey begins in the province of Caserta,

where we explore a palace that succeeded in

rivalling Versailles and continued an Italian


tradition of majestic water gardens.

Next we encounter some of Italy's ties to


the Second World War, from the seaside town

of Anzio to an abbey in the mountains of Cassino.

Following the trail of the ancient Appian


Way, we then enter Rome for an aerial excursion

over its ancient ruins and its awe-inspiring


architecture, including the Colosseum, the

Forum, the piazza Navora and the Palatine


Hill.

From one of the most ancient cities in the


world to the most holy, we visit the sacred

grounds of Vatican City.

We conclude our adventure in the hills of


Tivoli with two palatial garden estates.

Our excursion to the magnificent Caserta Palace,


constructed by Charles III in the mid-18th

century, begins by exploring the 4 kilometre-long


garden which stretches up to the hillside.

The park was designed by Caserta architect


Luigi Vantivelli and completed by his son,

Carlo, in 1780.

Comprised of a system of Baroque water features,


the centrepiece is the Fountain of Aeolus.

An enormous promenade that spans the entire


120 hectare estate.

Adjacent and towards the upper end is the


English Garden, designed in 1782 in the English

style, a reaction to the formal Italianate


gardens of the time.

We cover the last segments of the Park as


it ascends from the Fountain of Venus to its

terminus at the Great Fountain atop of the


promenade.

An aqueduct was built to bring water to this


grotto, from where it then begins its journey
down the hillside.

The aqueduct is 38-kilometres long and runs


through five mountains, keeping the waterfalls

and other features fully operational.

The water first cascades 150 meters into the


ornate basin of the Great Fountain.

Here, we find famous sculptures in the form


of the Fountains of Diana and, to the left,

Actaeon, which depicts the hero transformed


into a stag as wolves prepare to tear him

to pieces, a penalty for gazing at Diana as


she bathed.

King Charles III wanted an estate to rival


Versailles and Madrid's Royal Palace.

Although he never resided at Caserta, the


result of his vision was what the World Heritage

Centre deemed the "swan song of the spectacular


art of the Baroque".

Caserta provided assembly for its king, the


court and the government.

The 1200-room palace is rectangular with four


inner courtyards covering 3800 square metres.

We travel North up the coast to the fishing


town of Anzio.

Situated on the Lazio coast, the port was


a vital landing spot for an attack by Allied

forces in World War II.

The plan was to drive through to Rome, just


56km to the north, to liberate it from German

forces.

The ensuing battle left Anzio in ruins.

However, after the war much of the town was


rebuilt, and in such a way that kept its fishing

town character.

And set back from the coast in the nearby


town of Nettuno is a poignant reminder of

the scale of fighting that took place from


1943 to 1944.

This is the Sicily-Rome American Cemetery.

Rich in art, architecture and landscaping,


this vast World War II memorial covers over

30 hectares.

Nearly 7900 fallen American troops are buried


here amongst the rows of Roman pines.

Most of the casualties were sustained during


the liberation of Sicily in 1943, while other

soldiers died in the landings of Salerno and


Anzio and the heavy fighting northward.

We continue on to Cassino, at the southern


end of the Lazio region.

And it's here we catch the dramatic sight


of Monte Cassino Abbey.

Since its inception in the 6th century, it


has suffered terrible fortune, repeatedly

attacked, pillaged or ruined by natural disaster.

During World War II the German forces used


it as a stronghold, blocking access to Rome.

American led air-raids almost completely destroyed


it in 1944 during the Allied forces' Italian

campaign.

The abbey, originally built by St. Benedict


in 529, was reconstructed after the war in

its ancient architectural form, and finally


re-consecrated by Pope Paul VI in 1964.

With relics from St. Benedict and St. Scholastica,


tourists flock to the working monastery to

indulge themselves in its historical importance


and its attractive architecture.

Our journey now takes us to the town of Frascati,


where we encounter a magnificent exhibition

of Papal extravagance...

Villa Aldobrandini.

Set facing Rome, 20 kilometres away, this


dramatic building was an ostentatious display
of the church's power and authority.

In 1600, Pope Clement VIII, a member of the


Aldobrandini family, acquired this site, gifting

the property to his nephew, a cardinal.

The highly ornate villa and grounds were constructed


during the Baroque period, at a time when

Popes attempted to outdo their predecessors


with shows of grandeur, building palaces which

reflected their wealth and power.

This estate served a ceremonial function for


the Aldobrandinis and was not used as a family

residence.

During the second World War, there was significant


damage to the Villa after bombing destroyed

over half of the town.

Today it remains an architectural treasure


for its historical and cultural significance.

The Appian Way was once the most strategic


road of ancient Rome.

It's also the site of the crucifixion of the


gladiator Spartacus whose slave uprising ended

along this route.

It leads us to the eternal city and capital


of the ancient empire—Rome.

During his journey to Italy, German novelist


Johann Wolfgang von Goethe wrote that "only

in Rome is it possible to understand Rome."

We're now over the heart of the Italian capital


and the River Tiber - winding through the

city that has influenced the world politically


and socially for 2500 years.

And it's importance lives on to this day as


the spiritual centre for the world's billion

or so catholics.

The splendour of Rome's ancient treasures


can be seen almost everywhere.

From the imposing Trajan's Column, to the


temples of the Republican period dating back

over two millennia.

They nestle effortlessly amongst newer landmarks,


such as the Victor Emmanuel Monument.

One of the best preserved structures is the


mighty Pantheon, the former temple to all

the Gods of ancient Rome.

And nearby is Piazza Navona, arguably Rome's


most beautiful square.

Once a fortified city, the original walls


can still be seen today.

They date back to the third century, erected


around the seven hills of Rome to protect

against German invaders.

Two-thirds remain intact and well-preserved,


since they were used for defence right up

until the 19th century.

There were 18 grand gates, such as this one,


known in ancient times as Porta Appia.

Flanked by two semi-circular towers, it was


later renamed Porta San Sebastiano.

The wall incorporated many existing structures


like this Egyptian-style pyramid built in

12 BC as a tomb for Caius Cestius.

At the southeastern part of the ancient district


are the red-brick ruins of the Baths of Caracalla.

Completed in 217 AD, and covering over 11


hectares, the massive rooms were enjoyed by

Romans for over 300 years.

The complex was able to accommodate up to


1600 citizens, providing not only bathing,

but a library, a gymnasium, galleries, restaurants


and even brothels.

Today, it hosts the Rome Opera company during


the summer, having staged the first concert

of the three tenors in 1990.

We arrive in the heart of the city at the


imposing and impressive Colosseum, the largest

building constructed in the Roman Empire.

Despite its decay, it remains a remarkable


feat of architecture and engineering.

The amphitheatre held 50,000 spectators who


assembled, for no charge, in tiered seating

arrangements that reflected the hierarchies


within Roman society.

Below ground were rooms that contained mechanical


devices and cages for wild animals, which

could be lifted to appear centre stage.

Aiming to increase their popularity, the Emperors


would stage fights to the death between gladiators

and animals or simply between gladiators themselves.

It was made of concrete and stone yet originally


clad in marble, which was later incorporated

into the construction of St. Peter's Basilica


and other landmark buildings.

In the present day, visitors are allowed to


view the interior of the arena, and, recently

in 2010, the subterranean passageways were


opened to the public.

The site is still used ceremoniously by the


Catholic Church on Good Friday, as a starting

point for the torchlit procession led by the


Pope, known as The Way of the Cross.

Although dwarfed in size by its neighbour,


the Arch of Constantine is not short of historical

significance.

One of three remaining imperial triumphal


arches, the edifice, commemorates Constantine's

victory in a 4th century Civil War.

Ironically, the decorations aren't as well-preserved


as those from earlier eras -- and it's almost

a symbol for the eventual fall of the Roman


Empire.

We shift from the entertainment hub to the


centre of Roman public life at the Forum.
For over 1000 years, this rectangular plaza
hosted elections, Senate assemblies and triumphal

processions.

The complex of ancient ruins includes government


buildings, temples, arches and basilicas,

giving visitors some idea of the Forum's original


layout.

Perhaps no landmark in the Forum remains as


intact and well-preserved as the Arch of Septimus

Severus.

Erected in 203 AD to commemorate the Emperor's


victory in Parthia, the structure originally

had a flight of stairs running through the


12 meter high centre passage.

The arch became property of a church in the


Middle Ages, and unlike other monuments such

as the Colosseum, its parts were protected


and not incorporated into new buildings.

According to legend, Rome's founding dates


back to 753 BC when twin brothers Romulus

and Remus settled on this site, marking the


beginnings of the Roman Kingdom.

Today, the Palatine Hill is an open-air museum


containing ruins of large imperial buildings,

such as the Palace of Septimus Severus.

During the Republican era, the top of the


Palatine Hill became the exclusive residential

area for the rich and powerful, not least


for the amazing vistas over the city.

Augustus, Cicero and Marc Antony all resided


here.

One of Rome's modern landmarks is the 18th


century Spanish Steps, connecting a piazza

to a 16th century French church.

This symmetrical and elegant structure has


twelve flights of stairs with total of 138

steps, and is the widest staircase in Europe.


Nearby is the oval-shaped square, Piazza del
Popolo.

Tourists flock to see the ancient Egyptian


obelisk in the centre, but it was the Porta

del Popolo that made an impression upon those


arriving in the Renaissance era.

The large gate welcomed pilgrims entering


the city along the Via Flaminia, which connected

Rome to the Adriatic coast.

Another example of the opulent palaces built


by wealthy families of Popes, is The Villa

Borghese.

Situated on the outskirts of Rome at the time


of its construction, it was built by a cardinal

who was the nephew of Pope Paul V, and to


this day showcases the Borghese family's collection

of paintings, sculptures and antiquities.

Erected during the late renaissance in a classical


style, the Villa became a publicly-owned gallery

in 1902

Heading toward Vatican City, we stop first


at Castel Sant' Angelo, a national museum

that once stood as a refuge for Popes facing


an imminent threat.

Originally a mausoleum, the castle was fortified


and incorporated into the Aurelian Wall, transforming

it into a Papal fortress and luxurious residence.

Occupying less than half a square kilometre


and completely encircled by Rome, is Vatican

City.

It's the world's smallest country and spiritual


centre for over a billion Catholics worldwide.

St. Peter's Basilica was built on Vatican


Hill as a shrine to St. Peter, one of the

twelve apostles and considered the first Pope.

He died as a martyr and was buried on the


site in 64 AD.
Construction of the present buildings commenced
in the early 1500s.

The greatest Italian architects of the era


spent over 100 years building the new basilica,

and it was finally re-consecrated in 1626.

Although millions flock to Vatican City each


year, it is home to only 800 residents.

Arguably the best panorama of the Eternal


City is from the base of giant lantern that

caps the oculus atop the ribbed vault of St.


Peter's Basilica.

A masterful collaboration of between Bramante


and Michelangelo, the massive cupola has a

diameter of 42 meters and rests on four huge


pillars, which support a cylindrical drum

that features 16 windows.

At a height of 136 metres, this crowning piece


is the tallest dome in the world.

Such a magnificent and imposing structure


as St. Peter's would be incomplete without

a grandiose esplanade to welcome those taking


in its splendour.

The Baroque-style piazza was designed by Bernini


in the 17th century.

The elliptical circus that slopes towards


the Egyptian obelisk at its centre, is surrounded

by massive colonnades symbolising the Church's


outstretched arms greeting its communicants.

Bernini also sculpted the 140 statues of saints


that perch on top of the balustrades of each

colonnade.

Historian Banister Fletcher referred to the


piazza as the "greatest of all atriums before

the greatest of all churches in Christendom."

As we prepare to leave Rome, we capture yet


another fantastic approach to viewing the

city in the form of a hot air balloon, tethered


about a half kilometre above the beautiful
Borghese gardens.

The vista is our last look at the Italian


capitol, as we continue east into the hills

toward Tivoli.

We take a slight detour, southeast of Rome,


to a sacred grotto in the hills of Subiaco.

Built into the cliff on Mount Taleo, is this


brown-hued stone monastery that enshrines

the cave, deemed the Sacro Speco, where St.


Benedict lived as a hermit for three years,

before organizing his first monastic community


a few kilometres from here.

Most of the monastery's Gothic style buildings


were constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries,

hundreds of years after St. Benedict's lifetime.

The monastery is still active, and open for


visitors to pray and explore.

And tucked away is an inconspicuous entrance


that leads to the holiest place in the sanctuary.

This is the portal for the chapel that contains


the sacred cave of St. Benedict where he spent

his hermitage in 500 AD.

Benedict along with his twin sister, St. Scholastica,


resided in the valley for twenty years, founding

13 monasteries and nunneries between them


before moving to Monte Cassino to spend another

two decades in service.

Resting among cypress and olive trees in the


ancient town of Tivoli are the ruins of the

Villa Adriana, a great complex built as a


summer retreat for Emperor Hadrian in the

early 2nd century.

Excavations began in the 16th century, revealing


the remains of some of the finest Roman architecture.

The grounds cover a vast area of 120 hectares,


which included designs inspired by Hadrian's

travels to Greece and Egypt...


...like the Pecile, this piazza with a central
pool, inspired by the Athens landmark, Stoa

Poikile.

In total there were over 30 buildings, including


palaces, baths, a theatre, temples, libraries

and living quarters.

The most ambitious creation was Canopus, a


sanctuary of the god Serapis along the Nile's

delta near Alexandria.

Designers crafted a canal over 100 metres


long and this artificial grotto called Serapeum.

Perhaps Hadrian's favourite refuge was the


Maritime Theatre, a round pool with an island,

which contained a small house, an atrium,


baths, and a library.

Surrounded by columns in a classic ionic style,


the theatre is assumed to be the private studio,

where Hadrian withdrew to indulge himself


in painting and architecture.

Our final destination brings us to another


palatial estate in a series of extravagant

17th century villas, in the hills that surround


the Roman Campagna.

These are the magnificent water gardens of


the Villa d'Este in Tivoli.

Tourists marvel at the clever irrigation which


feeds the 500 fountains and water displays,

integrated harmoniously into the natural sloping


landscape, which covers an area of 4.5 hectares.

Very few gardens can compare to the innovation


of the fountains and basins of the Villa d'Este,

perhaps a reason why European gardens, from


Portugal to Poland, would be modelled after

the estate's landscaping, such as this wall


of water called the Hundred Fountains.

Cardinal Ippolito d'Este built the villa following


a failed bid for the papacy, desiring, in

his own words, a garden suitable for "one


of the wealthiest ecclesiastics of the sixteenth
century."

The result were gardens that blended ancient


artistry with a modern mannerist style, creating

an Italian oasis to be treasured for centuries.

A perfect place... to end this journey.

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