Ciabatta This bread, with its big, did Italy during the past 50 years, Although it hails from an age-old tradition of rustic, slack-dough breads, according to one of its many origin stories, the name ciabatta was not applied to this loaf yy holes and amorphous shape, has taken America by storm, just as it until the mid-twentieth century. An enterprising baker in the Lake Como region of northern Italy observed that the bread resembled a slipper worn by dancers of the region and thus dubbed his loaf ciabatta di Como (slipper bread of Como). A new tradition was born. During the second half of the century, this ciabatta became the unofficial national bread of Italy, so closely identified is it with the chewy, rustic peasant breads of the Italian countryside. As with pugliese bread, the dough is not unlike that of many other Italian and French rustic breads, including pizza and focaccia, and can thus be made into many shapes other than the Lake Como slipper. You can make this dough with a large amount of either poolish or biga, and formulas for both versions follow. It can also be made with the addition of milk and olive oil to tenderize the dough. In other words, there are many variations, all valid, and as long as you make a slipper shape, you can call it ciabatta, Since writing Crust & Crumb, I have continued to fine-tune these rustic breads, pushing the limits of time and temperature manipulation, trying to evoke every bit of flavor trapped in the flour. In the pain d ancienne formula, we will make a similar dough but with no preferment and a Jong cold fermentation. Each variation in technique brings forth slightly different flavor tones from the wheat, and everyone seems to have their own preferences. In this version, the use of 165 to 180 percent pre-ferment seems to be the magic amount to maximize a same-day bread in a 4- to 5- hour window. It yields a slightly acidic and yeasty edge, a flavor that many people love. They say, “This tastes like real bread!” I have found little difference between the biga and poolish versions; both are amazing. 207‘This rustic bread dough can be formed into a number of shapes beyond the classic slipper, such 2s the long stiato, stubby pain rustique, or round pugliese isle. 208209Ciabatta, Polish Version Makes two 4-pound (453g) loaves or 3 smaller loaves BREAD PROFILE Lean, rustic dough: indirect method; commercial yeast DAYS TO MAKE: 2 DAY 4: 2 to 4 hours polish or biga DAY 2:1 hour to de-chi 30 minutes baking 10 to 15 minutes mixing: 3 to 4 hours fermentation, shaping. and proofing; 20 10 poolish or bis COMMENTARY You can add ¥é cup (2 ounces/ 57g) olve oll 1o the formula and/or substitute whole milk or buttermilk for some or ll ofthe ‘water (even the pools can be made with milk). The oil or milk-erviched product willbe softer and more tender than the lean, wateronly version. Ifyou are adding the ol, ou may need to add a small amount of flour—as always, let the dough dictate if it needs any flour or liquid adjustments [As you become comfortable with wet dough, you may want to try increasing the hydration and stickiness of the dough. The ‘wetter the better, as long as It holds together enough to make the stretch-and fold maneuvers. Its during the stretching ‘and folding that the gluten has a chance to strengthen, resuiting in the large oles so distinctive and prized in tis bread, ‘This dough is very simple to make ina food processor. ee instructions. ‘There are a number of excellent variations that you can try, Including adding mushrooms, cheese, or sautéed onions, 2s described on the following pages. MEASURE OUNCES GRAMS. INGREDIENTS * Sues «278 ~~C«ABSSSClh 1685 Beye «138 —~=~«SED.—_anbeached bend our 100 Bons OM a 328 Fr o7s sseun ps ato or substue wile ik baton ral or 3 15 as lpmistusecevamconneriary mam aris 445 tsepons foomsa-cte 38° Semotna o cornmeal fr ds ora, sir TOTAL DOUGH FORMULA AND % 210OUNCES GRAMS INGREDIENTS % 28 709 bread four 4100 oa 325 salt 18 oar 5 instant yeast o7 1875 532 water 75 TOTAL 4775 1. Remove the pools from the refrigerator I hour before making the dough to take off the chill, 2 Tormake che dough, sti together the flour, salt and yeast in a4quart mixing bow! (or in the bow! of an electric mixer). Add ‘the pool and the water and, using large metal spoon (or on low speed with the paddle attachment), mix until the ingredients oem a sticky ball. If there is sill some looe flour, add additional water as needed and continue to mix, If you are mixing by thand, repeatedly dip one of your hands or the metal spoon into cold water and use it, much like a dough hook, to work the dough vigorously into a smooth mass while rotating the bow! in a circular motion withthe other hand (se his page). Reverse ‘the circular motion afew times to develop the gluten further. Do this for 5 t0 7 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and the ingredients are evenly distsbuted, Ifyou are using an electric mixer, mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment for 5 to 7 minutes, or as long a ie takes to reste a smooth, sticky dough. Switch to the dough hook forthe final 2 minutes of mixing. “The dough should clear the sides of the bowl but stick to the bottom of the bowl, You may need to add addtional flour to firm ‘up the dough enough to clear the sides ofthe bowl, but the dough should stil be quite sof and sticky. 3 Sprinkle enough flour on the counter to make a bed about 8 inches (20cm) square (or use the oil slick method) Using a bow! scraper or spatula dipped in water, transfer the sticky dough to the bed of flour and proceed with the stretch-and-fold method, “Mist the top ofthe dough with spray ol, again dust with flour, and loosely cover with plastic wrap or a food-grade plastic bag Let rest for 30 minutes and then stretch and fold the dough again; mist with spray oi, dust with flour, and cover. Allow the covered dough to ferment on the counter for 1¥sto 2 hours. It should swell but not necesarly double in size ‘Set up a once as described on this page (or use a sheet pan dusted with bread flour or semolina), Carefully remove the plastic fiom the dough and proceed as shown on his page for shaping the dough. Mist the top ofthe dough with spray oil and dust the dough with more flour, then cover the cloth with a towel. Proof for 45 minutes to 1% hours, or until the dough has noticeably swelled. Prepare the oven for heath baking as described on this page making sure to have an empty steam pan in plac, Preheat the oven to 500° (260°C), 6 Generously dust a peel or the back of a sheet pan with semolina or comnmeal and very gently transfer the dough pieces tothe ‘peel or pan, using the pastry scraper if you need suppor. Lift the dough from each end and tug the dough out toa length of 9 10 12 inches (23 to 30cm). Ifthe dough bulges too high in the middle, gently dimple it down with your fingertips to even out the height ofthe laf Slide the 2 doughs (or bake one at atime iyou prefer) ont the baking stone (or bake directly on the sheet pan) Pour I cup hot water into the steam pan and close the door. After 30 seconds, open the door, spray the side walls of the oven with water, and close the door. Repeat twice more at 30second intervals. After the final spray tra the oven setting down to 450°F (232°C) and bake for 10 minutes. Rotate the loaves 180 degrees, if necessary, for even baking and continue baking for Sto 10 minutes longer o until done. The bread should register 205°F (96°C) in the center and should be golden in color (but the flour streaks wll also give ita dusty look). The loaves wil feel quite hard and crusty at fist but will soften as they «ool. 7 Transfer the bread fom the oven toa cooling rack and let cool fora leas 45 minutes before slicing or serving 2u212213” STRETCH-AND-FOLD METHOD (A) Dust the top of the dough liberally with flour, patting the dough into a rectangle. Wait for 2 minutes for the dough to relax, Coat your hands with flour and (B) it the dough from each end, stretching it to twice ts size. (C) Fold the dough over itsetf, letter style, to return itto a rectangular shape. 214f SHAPING CIABATTA (A) Using a pastry scraper that has been dipped in water, divide the dough into 2 or 3 rectangles, taking care not to degas ‘the dough. Sprinkle the dough generously with mare flour and, using the scraper to get under the dough, gently lift each piece from the counter and then ral it on both sides in the loose flour to coat. (8) Lay the loaves on the cloth and gently fold each piece of dough, from left to right, eter style, into an oblong about 6 inches (45em) long, (©) Bunch the cloth between the pieces to provide a wall. (For an alternative method, dust a sheet pan generously with flour ‘ra blend of flours, such as rye, semolina, bread, or the lke. Rol the formed ciabatta loaves on the pan to coat them with flour and then space them, seam side down, on the pan, Mist the loaves with spray cil and then cover loosely with plastic ‘wrap oF a towel. After 30 minutes, gently flip the loaves over, seam side up, and continue proofing before transferring the: loaves to the aven to bake.) 215Ciabatta, Biga Version Makes two t-pound (453g) loaves or 3 smaller loaves MEASURE OUNCES —_GRAMS_INGREDIENTS * some 16 hie 1 aoe 8 255 enlace breed our 400 ms (O87 105 a aa Sr 2 ‘terse wie nlk or bom rallor sop 8 221 fattltewatoyate Common) tevarm(G0°Ft0 88 foorr/so"er0 38°) ar 28 olrecionoan 1 Tora esa TOTAL DOUGH FORMULA AND % OUNCES GRAMS INGREDIENTS, = 135524 —_read four 100 os7 «305s 18 0185 ——_Cstanyeoet o7 us thats 784 1 28 olveol onto TOTAL 180.9/ 186.4 Remove the bigs from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough. Cutt into about 10 small pieces with a pastry seraper cor serrated knife, Cover with a towel or plastic wrap and le sit for 1 hour ‘To make the dough, str together the flour, salt, and yeast i a 4-quare mixing bowl (or in the bow ofan electric mixer). Add the bige pieces, water, and oil (i using). With a large metal spoon (or on low speed withthe paddle attachment), mix until the {ingredients form asichy ball. Iehereis il some loose flour, add additional wate as needed and continue to mix. Proceed as directed in the polish version. 216Wild Mushroom Ciabatta (Ciabatta al Funghi) Makes two 4-pound (453g) loaves or 3 smaller loaves COMMENTARY Probably the most popular bread among my students is wild mushroom ciabatta | included an excellent formula for this in Crust & Crumb but have developed a new technique for making this and other flavor variations using the new formulas in this book. Here are three examples, but there are no limits tothe options. 5 dried shiitake or porcini mushrooms, broken into pieces and stems discarded 6 tablespoons water, warm (100°F/38°C) {1 pound (454g) fresh button or shiltake mushrooms, cut into ¥4nchhick (6 m-thick) slices (stems discarded from shitake) 4 cloves garlic, pressed or minced 4 cup olve ol ‘Salt and freshly ground black pepper Ciabatta, Poolish Version or Ciabatta Biga Version 1. Soak the dried mushrooms inthe water for 30 minutes (you can do this just prior to making the final dough or the day before). ‘Meanwhile ina large silt, sauté the fresh musheooms and garlic in the olive ol over medium heat just until the mushrooms ate soi, Drain off the pan juices and add them tothe soaking dried mushrooms, Season the sautéed mushrooms with sale and pepper and set them aside to cool 2. Make che dough as directed in the master formula, adding the dried mushrooms and soaking liquid as you mix the dough and using as much liquid as necessary to make sft, sticky dough. 3 Proceed as directed inthe chosen version, When you perform the two steteand/-old turns, sprinkle onesquarter ofthe sautéed Fresh mushrooms (or les, if you are making 3 smaller loaves) over each piece of dough ach time and fold them in. IFany fall ‘out, simply add them inthe next ime or slip them between the folds 217Ciabatta with Cheese (Ciabatta al Formaggio) Makes two t-pound (453g) loaves or 3 smaller loaves Ciabatta, Poolish Version or Ciabatta, Biga Version 2.cups shredded or grated Parmesan, romano, mozzarella, Jack, Cheddar, provolone, Swiss, and blue cheese, in any ‘combination Make the dough as directed in the master formula, When performing the two steteh-and-old turns, sprinkle one quarter ofthe cheese blend (or les, ifyou are making 3 smaller loaves) over each piece of dough each time and fold them in, Proceed as described inthe choten version. 218Caramelized Onion and Herb Ciabatta Makes two t-pound (454g) loaves or 3 smaller loaves ‘4 cups sliced yellow or white onions 4 cup olve ol 2 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar :Lcup chopped fresh herb blend (parsley, basi, oregano, tarragon, cilantro, or other favorite herb, in any combination) Salt and freshly ground black pepper Ciabatta, Poolish Version or Ciabatta, Biga Version Prepare the onionand:herb misture at least 1 hour before making the dough or the day before. In a large skillet, saué the ‘onions in the olive ol over medium heat until they tart to caramelize or turn brown (twill take 10 0 15 minutes). Add the sugar and continue 1 cook until the sugar mels and the onions turn golden brown, Add the balsamic vinegar and sti until the onions are evenly coated, Tusn off the hest and add the herb, tosing just until che are evenly distributed and wilted. Season with sale and pepper. Set aside to coal Make the dough as directed in the master formula, When performing the two stretch and/-4old turns, spread onequarter ofthe ‘onions (or les, ifyou are making 3 smaller loaves) over each piece of dough each time and fold them in. Proceed as directed in the chosen version. 219