Whatchtime - February 2016 PDF

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Februar y 2016
TESTING THE NEW

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WT_0116_Publishers_Letter_03.qxp 03.12.15 16:25 Seite 10
PUBLISHER’S
Letter
WatchTime New York:

A Dream Becomes Reality
n October 23-24 of last year,
O
social media) and those of our key media
WatchTime celebrated the watch partners for the show: AFAR, Robb Report
industry with our first two-day and Wine Enthusiast. We informed them
collector event aptly named, “WatchTime about our new show concept and let them
New York 2015.” As many of you know, know when new brands signed on as
WatchTime has been in the events busi- show sponsors. I was delighted that we
ness for quite some time, having organ- also were able to join forces with the
ized the highly successful “Inside Watch Anish team, led by founder Anish
Basel.Geneva” road show for 10 years Bhatt. That collaboration led to a new
and having worked with watch brands to event partnership that exposed WTNY to
host smaller events. When it became time more than 1 million of Watch Anish’s
Twenty watch brands showed their latest and to reexamine our event format, we felt we Instagram followers. As you can see in the
greatest watches at WTNY. were ready to make our dream of a much pictures in Mark Bernardo’s article on
needed larger scale event in New York pages 111-115, we were successful in
City a reality. drawing a diversified and qualified audi-
“WatchTime New York” drew more ence from the watch community.
than 700 guests over the course of two WatchTime is very appreciative for all
days and allowed watch collectors of all of our 20 watch brand sponsors and other
ages to come together and bond over their key partners like BMW and Delta who
love of watches and horology. A natural made the show an overwhelming success.
camaraderie exists amongst watch collec- It would not have been possible without
tors that is quite unique: there appears to their support of our new event concept
be no judgment in terms of what each per- strategy, which brought new faces to their
son is wearing on their wrist. The only booths and new eyes to their timepieces.
requirement is that they share the same I can confirm that “WatchTime New
passion. This passion for watches generated York 2016” will take place this October.
More than 700 watch collectors and
aficionados attended WTNY. a tremendous energy on Friday night that Plans are underway to increase the num-
lasted through Saturday evening when the ber of watch brands showcasing their
show closed. novelties. We plan to implement other
One of our goals for making WTNY exciting elements to the show to make the
successful was to welcome a large and experience fully interactive and educa-
diverse audience of watch enthusiasts. We tional. Hope to see you all there.
felt it was important to include all genera-
tions of collectors, each of whom plays an My very best,
important role as consumers. Through
our various readership surveys, we knew Sara Orlando
that we had a growing digital audience of Publisher
young followers on WatchTime’s website
and social media outlets and it was our
job to speak to them. We crafted an out-
WatchTime wants YOU at the next WTNY reach strategy to reach them through all
show, coming this October. of our media channels (print, digital, and
10 WatchTime February 2016

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WATCH_ppcoplcd H1505174.1.indd 1 12/7/15 11:28 AM

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EDITOR’S
Letter
Details,
Details, Details
ur cover story this time is a test of the
O
the 1/8-second. However, the company instead
newest version of the IWC Portugieser chose to graduate the seconds track in conven-
Automatic, launched last year. It’s one of tional, and, in this instance, incorrect 1/5-second
what our gang informally calls “supertests.” increments.” Brunner is a stickler for details and
Every now and then our watch testing team in his story is chock-full of information like this.
Germany goes an extra mile (or 10) on a test. For Anyone curious about how a column wheel actu-
supertests, they not only do the normal wear test ally works in a chronograph should not miss this
and timing test on a Witschi machine. They also article. It begins on page 96.
do what Jens Koch, the author of the Portugieser Here’s another thing you might not have
test story, calls a “vivisection.” Working with a known but will discover in this issue: mighty
watchmaker from Wempe Jewelers, they literally Rolex struck out a couple of times trying to break
take the watch and some of the movement apart. into the chronograph market before it hit a grand
The result is what I call the WatchTime differ- slam with the Daytona. Thomas Gronenthal
IWC Portugieser supertest
ence: a level of detail in reporting and analysis writes that Rolex’s Ref. 6234 Oyster chrono-
that you will find nowhere else in the watch graph, produced in limited quantities from 1955
world, print or digital. to 1961, “often languished on dealers’ shelves
You’ll see what I mean when you read the because other manufacturers had long since estab-
article, “A Classic Revamped,” beginning on lished themselves as chronograph specialists.”
page 50. Here’s one example. “The rotor is lighter These “pre-Daytonas,” as they are called, sold for
than before,” Koch writes. “For comparison’s about $200 in the early 1960s. Today, they fetch
sake, we weighed a rotor from the previous cal- 100 times that price, Gronenthal says, in “Track-
iber and the one from this caliber. The new one ing the Daytona,” which starts on page 78. It’s a
weighs 5.02 grams: 0.65 grams less than its fore- detailed account of the evolution of the Cosmo-
bear. This yields weight savings of approximately graph Daytona, inside and out, over the past 53
13 percent, an important detail because in some years. One added bonus: he gives the current value
old Portugieser watches, the heavy oscillating of a number of vintage Daytonas, like Ref. 6263,
weight had snapped the rotor’s staff. This is now which Christie’s sold for nearly one million Swiss
less likely.” Koch has written what is certainly the francs in 2013.
most in-depth and independent review of the new Mechanical chronographs take a star turn in
IWC piece anywhere. I hope you enjoy it. another story in the issue. Here, though, the focus
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, 1963
We head under the hood again in “Counter is less on the products than on the person behind
Check” by our technical wizard Gisbert Brunner. them, Dieter Delecate. Exactly the way Delecate
It’s a detailed comparison of in-house chrono- never wanted it! Delecate years ago acquired Ger-
Dieter Delecate
graph movements in deluxe models from three of many’s then dormant Tutima brand and revived
the most prestigious names in the business: Patek it. He has worked in the watch business for
Philippe (Ref. 5170 G), Vacheron Constantin (the longer than most of our readers have been alive.
Harmony chronograph) and A. Lange & Söhne He’s had a fascinating career but has deliberately
(Datograph Up/Down). With Brunner, you can avoided the media spotlight. Luckily for us, he
quickly find yourself drowning in technical detail. was persuaded to sit down with WatchTime and
But it’s worth the deep dive. Here’s another talk about his 61 years on the watch front. “Meet
example of independent, in-depth reporting Mr. Tutima” starts on page 64.
you’re not likely to find anywhere else. “The in-
house Gyromax balance oscillates at 28,800
vph,” Brunner writes of the Patek Philippe Joe Thompson
chrono. “In theory this permits accurate timing to Editor-in-Chief

IWC PortugIeser.
the legend among ICons.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. could be working on its legendary status for

Ref. 5033: The daring expeditions of the eternity. i wc . e n g i n e e r e d fo r m e n .
Portuguese seafarers held out the promise of

everlasting glory. A worthy legacy of this heroic
epoch is the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding,
Timelessly elegant, it features trailblazing tech- IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre, 7-day power
nology that includes a 7-day automatic move- reserve, Power reserve display, Perpetual calendar
with displays for the date, day, month, year in four
me nt w ith Pe llaton w inding a nd a powe r
digits and perpetual moon phase, Sapphire glass, See-
reserve display showing the date until 2499. So through sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant 3 bar,
conver ted into human lifetimes, this model Diameter 44.2 mm, Alligator leather strap by Santoni

WT_0116_TOC_02.qxp 02.12.15 11:31 Seite 14
CONTENTS WatchTime, January-February, 2016
50 84
64
COVER STORY
50 A CLASSIC REVAMPED 84 GETTING GEOPHYSICAL
By Jens Koch | A test of the venerable IWC Portugieser, By Norma Buchanan | Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing
equipped with a new, improved movement a new collection, the Geophysic, to bridge the gap
between its Master line and its ultra-high-mech models.
88 FROM RAW METAL TO MOVEMENT

FEATURES By Jens Koch | A look at start-from-scratch movement
manufacturing at Glashütte Original
64 MEET MR. TUTIMA
By Joe Thompson | Dieter Delecate has spent 61 years 96 COUNTER CHECK
in the watch business. He’s seen a few things. By Gisbert L. Brunner | How three high-end, classic
chronographs from A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe
78 TRACKING THE DAYTONA and Vacheron Constantin stack up against each other
By Thomas Gronenthal | A look at the 53-year history
of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

WT_0116_TOC_02.qxp 02.12.15 11:31 Seite 16
CONTENTS
February 2016
88 106
78
106 MADE IN GLASHÜTTE 24 WORLD OF WATCHTIME

By Norma Buchanan | Thilo Mühle is a rarity among See the global reach of WatchTime and its partners.
Glashütte watch executives: a native Glashütter. We
asked him about his town’s turbulent history as seen 26 READERS’ FORUM
from his front-row seat. Reactions to our dive-watch section, pondering Rolex
shock absorption, and more
111 WATCHTIME NEW YORK DEBUTS
By Mark Bernardo | Big crowds and big buzz mark 30 WATCHTALK
WatchTime’s new watch show held in New York City Two more Swiss companies launch smartwatches,
in October. Richemont sales and earnings, the Pope’s watch, and
more
116 WHAT’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN
By Martina Richter and Melissa Gössling | We shine a 40 WATCH QUIZ
spotlight on bronze, that most ancient of new case Looking back on watch-related events of the year gone by
materials.
42 BRAND NEW
A portfolio of 12 new models from a range of brands
DEPARTMENTS 120 FACETIME

A photo mélange of readers and their watches
& COLUMNS 122 LAST MINUTE
10 PUBLISHER’S LETTER Smartwatches: the fourth revolution?
12 EDITOR’S LETTER ON THE COVER: The IWC Portugieser Automatic. Photo

by Marcus Krüger
18 ON WATCHTIME.COM
A glimpse at what’s on our site to keep you up to date
on the latest watch news

WATCH_ppcoplcd H1505152.1.indd 1 12/3/15 2:09 PM
WT_0116_onwatchtime_02_Proof.qxp 03.12.15 14:16 Seite 18
ON WATCHTIME.COM
Visit our website for more information about the
world of fine watches. To read the stories shown
here, go to watchtime.com/on-watchtime.
INSPIRED BY AVIATION:
MONTBLANC 1858 COLLECTION
Montblanc recently launched a new AUDEMARS PIGUET UNVEILS YELLOW-GOLD
collection called 1858, inspired by ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR
1930s pilots’ watches from the For the first new watch that it is unveiling in
brand’s archives. We go in-depth advance of the upcoming SIHH watch fair,
on the two models that have thus Audemars Piguet goes for what many would
far been announced, the 1858 consider old-school horological luxury –
Chronograph Tachymeter Limited releasing a new version of its Audemars
Edition, in gold, and the 1858 Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in
Small Second Limited Edition, classical yellow gold, outfitted with an
in steel. au courant dark blue dial.
Q&A: JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER ON THE

BORROWED TIME: BREMONT TAG HEUER CONNECTED WATCH
ALT1-WT WORLD TIMER One of the biggest stories in the
Bremont refers to this blue-dialed, watch world last fall was the launch
aviator-friendly world-time watch as of the TAG Heuer Connected watch,
“over-engineered,” and that might developed by the Swiss brand in
be an apt description. It’s equipped partnership with Google and Intel.
with two major complications – a WatchTime had the opportunity to
world-time indicator, operated by a speak with the man behind the
bidirectional crown, and a ambitious project, TAG Heuer CEO
chronograph – and sports the and President of LVMH Watch
quintessentially British brand’s Division Jean-Claude Biver.
complex “Trip-Tick” case. How did it
hold up in a hands-on review?
Scan this code JUKE BOX HERO: HARRY WINSTON OPUS 14

with your smart- Harry Winston’s Opus 14, the most secretive
phone to visit new watch launch in recent history, made its
watchtime.com.
long-awaited debut at a lavish 1950s-
Americana-themed party in
Baden-Baden, Germany.
WatchTime takes you
TUDOR LAUNCHES NEW inside the launch
FASTRIDER BLACK SHIELD event and offers
The newest version of the Tudor insight into the
Fastrider Black Shield – with a limited-edition
high-tech ceramic case and timepiece’s unique
automatic chronograph complication,
movement – screams “biker’s whose mechanisms
watch” with its all-matte-black are reminiscent of a
look and distinctive white high- miniaturized jukebox.
lights for road-riding legibility,
inspired by the design codes of
the Ducati XDiavel racing bike.

ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS
PATRAVI SCUBATEC
Discover the world 500 meters below
its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s
watch offers a multi adjustable clasp
and an automatic helium release valve
to ensure ultimate comfort and worry
free equalization of pressure. Created
with the highest grade of stainless
steel, its rugged ceramic bezel and blue
illuminated hands and dial markers
ensure perfect readability, even at the
deepest depths.
BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION
WWW.CARL-F-BUCHERER.COM
800.395.4306

WT_0116_Masthead.qxp 02.12.15 11:40 Seite 20
THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WATCHES
Editor-in-Chief/Associate Publisher Joe Thompson

Executive Editor Norma Buchanan
Managing Editor Dara Hinshaw
Digital Media Editor Mark Bernardo
Art Direction/Design trurnit Publishers, Munich
Contributing Writers Gisbert L. Brunner
Rüdiger Bucher
Maria-Bettina Eich
Melissa Gössling
Jens Koch
Alexander Krupp
Martina Richter
Thomas Wanka
Neha S. Bajpai
Aishwarya Sati
Nitin Nair
Contributing Editor Carol Besler
Translations Howard Fine
Joanne Weinzierl
Photographers Nina Bauer
Marcus Krüger
OK-Photography
Eveline Perroud
Nik Schölzel
Zuckerfabrik Fotodesign
WatchTime (ISSN 1531-5290) is published bimonthly for $49.97 per year by Ebner Publishing International, Inc., 274 Madison Avenue, Suite 804, New York, NY 10016.
Copyright Ebner Publishing International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. January/February 2016 issue, Volume 18, Number 1. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to WatchTime,
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signs François-Paul Journe; a guarantee of an invention entirely made in our workshops
“I invented it and made it”
Ref. TN
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WT_0116_Masthead.qxp 02.12.15 11:40 Seite 22
THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WATCHES
EBNER PUBLISHING INC.

274 Madison Ave
Suite 804
New York, NY 10016
USA
Management & Administration
Publisher Sara M. Orlando

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Office Manager Steve Brown
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EBNER PUBLISHING GROUP

Ulm, Germany
Executive Board Gerrit Klein

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Head of Digital Development Paul-Henry Schmidt
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Digital & Mobile Jens Koeppe
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L I F E I S A B O U T M O M E N T S
C E L E B R AT I N G E L E G A N C E S I N C E 1 8 3 0
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TIVOL / Kansas City, Missouri / Overland Park, Kansas / 800-829-1515 / tivol.com

WT_0116_Media_Worldwide.qxp 02.12.15 11:51 Seite 24
THE WORLD OF
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WatchTime is a subsidiary of Ebner Publishing of Germany, whose flagship watch magazines are WatchTime
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WT_0116_Readers_Forum_03.qxp 03.12.15 10:07 Seite 26
WATCHtalk
READERS’ Forum
‘WEARING A $10,000+ TIMEPIECE ON A

DIVE [IS] THE HOROLOGIC EQUIVALENT OF
LIGHTING A CIGAR WITH A $1,000 BILL.’
REMEMBER THE HYDROMAX! YOU SURE THAT’S A JENNY?

I was surprised to see no mention of a unique I am a watch enthusiast and collector of many
dive watch in the “Dive Watches Through the different manufacturers of Swiss-made watches.
Decades” article in the December 2015 issue. I really enjoy the magazine, especially the
The Bell & Ross Hydromax is rated to the reviews of the vintage watches. I just wanted to
unreachable depth of 11,100 meters (assuming comment about a watch shown on page 169 of
you plan to return). the December 2015 magazine [“Dive Watches
Admittedly, it is quartz, but it is equipped Through the Decades”]. You identify it as a Jenny
with a seven-year lithium battery. The patented Caribbean, but the watch appears to be an
case, which is filled with transparent oil, has a Ollech & Wajs dive watch. If possible, please let
back designed to flex under pressure. As a me know if this is a typo or if Jenny & Cie man-
bonus, the oil makes the watch readable under ufactured for the O&W label.
water at any angle. Try that with an air-filled
watch. Although B&R discontinued the Hydro- David Nastri
max years ago, Sinn still makes oil-filled quartz
dive watches in their UX series. They are rea- You are very observant, sir. And correct. Jenny,
sonably priced (under $2,500), which makes founded in Lengnau, Switzerland, in 1963, and
them a good choice for those who might actually now headquartered in Bienne, made dive
take one into the water. Wearing a $10,000+ watches, watch cases and designs for numerous
timepiece on a dive has always struck me as the brands, including Jaquet Droz, Fortis and
horologic equivalent of lighting a cigar with a Ollech & Wajs. These included the Caribbean
thousand dollar bill. 1000 watch with the O&W logo shown in our
story. Jenny continues to produce the Jenny
Lawrence H. Clouse Caribbean watch. By the way, Jenny is now the
Marshfield, WI owner and manufacturer of another famous
The Jenny Caribbean watch with
Ollech & Wajs logo
dive watch mentioned in story, Doxa. JT
Norma Buchanan, co-author of the article,
replies: RESPONSE TO A RESPONSE
The Rolex Sea-Dweller Thank you for your comment. The Bell & Ross Thank you for printing my letter in the August
Hydromax is indeed a notable dive watch. We issue about the new Sea-Dweller and the
limited the scope of the article, as we pointed Paraflex shock absorber. It’s quite a thrill get-
out in the introduction, to mechanical watches. ting a letter in your forum. Also, thank you for
The reason was expediency: to list all or even printing T. Kite’s letter replying to mine [Read-
most of the important and interesting mechani- ers’ Forum, October 2015]. I appreciate his per-
cal and quartz dive watches would have spective and insight on the matter. I’ve often
required many additional pages and the impact sought advice on dive watch forums from mem-
of the piece would have been diluted. If we had bers with similar backgrounds. I’m also a little
opened the door to quartz watches, we would more than jealous: his former profession seems
have to include multifunction wrist-instrument- exciting, to say the least. If your work has you
type dive watches and even wrist-worn dive sitting at a desk as often as mine does, then you
computers. The article would have been know what I mean.
unwieldy and, in its selection of some quartz He is, of course, correct. Sea-Dwellers/Subs
multifunction watches over others, arbitrary. have been working quite well without the
WT_0116_Readers_Forum_03.qxp 03.12.15 10:07 Seite 28
WATCHtalk
READERS’ Forum
‘WHEN I TIMED MY ROLEX SUB-DATE TO SEE IF

ANYTHING BAD HAPPENED, IT WAS AN INCREDIBLE
PLUS ONE SECOND EVERY FOUR DAYS. A WATCH
THAT WAS 23 YEARS OLD WHEN I BOUGHT IT.’
Paraflex system for decades. My most watches that sell for $20,000 to $40,000 that
accurate watch was a transition Sub- score in the low 80s. My biggest pet peeve is a
Date (16800). I had a hiding place watch that can’t keep time.
when not wearing it and one day it fell I read the cover story on the Rolex GMT-
out and onto the floor. When I timed Master II black and blue in the October 2014
it to see if anything bad happened, it issue and thought to myself, “Just a piece of art
was an incredible plus one second work. However, that is a lot of money for a
every four days. This from a watch that GMT with a black and blue bezel.” Recently, I
was already 23 years old when I bought was in my authorized retail dealer’s store here in
it. My current Datejust also works quite Albuquerque, speaking with one of the sales-
well with the Kif system. people about the black and blue. The salesper-
That being said, it still makes me wonder: son said, “Oh, we have one in the vault.” I said,
OK, Rolex wants to take “baby steps” and not “Do you mind if I look at it?” As soon as I held
introduce the Paraflex to its Sea-Dweller 4000 the watch in my hand, that sold me. I bought it
(and GMT II). Does that mean Rolex is using two days later. Thanks to WatchTime for doing
the Datejust II, Sky-Dweller, and now the new such a great job on the article and very clear
Cellini (gorgeous watch, by the way) as guinea photos. I had been wearing a GMT-Master
pigs until they can say, “OK, it’s good enough red/blue since 1967. I paid $150 for it back
for our sports models”? See what I’m saying? then. I thought it was time for a change for the
Also, if I’m not mistaken, they did just the new GMT II. Thank you, WatchTime, for not
opposite with sapphire crystals: the sports mod- selling out and going cheap.
els got them first, and the Datejusts and others
stayed with Plexiglas for years. Wayne Silva
Blue/black Rolex GMT-Master II I’m sure other companies do the same thing. Albuquerque, NM
Car companies probably do it with race cars
using experimental brakes, suspension compo- WAY TO GO!
nents, etc. Except with Rolex, whose R&D is Many congratulations to Joe Thompson for
touted as one of the best in the business, it being awarded the “2016 GEM Award for Life-
comes across as rather odd, despite Mr. Kite’s time Achievement.” Such a well-earned acco-
rather convincing letter. It makes me wonder if lade for quite obviously many dedicated years
WatchTime welcomes cor- it’s a more complicated process than just plop- of hard work. I find it so heartening in this trou-
respondence from readers. ping a different shock system into the 3135 bled world that we live in that true expertise is
Send comments to editor- movement and that Rolex just hasn’t gotten being recognized in this manner – in other
in-chief Joe Thompson at around to it yet. I suppose I could write them words, a good person doing good things cer-
274 Madison Avenue, and ask. tainly creates a feel good factor! I trust that you
Suite 804, New York, NY will in due course enjoy the celebrations of your
10016 or via e-mail to Scott Lalonde proud family.
jthompson@watchtime.
com. Please include your
THE PRICE OF ADDICTION Donald P. McLeod Hawkins
full name, city and state,
I think that I may be addicted to WatchTime. Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, England
and country (if outside the
The only magazine that I read several times
United States). Letters may
besides WatchTime is Yachting magazine. I My deepest thanks to Mr. Hawkins and other
be edited for length or
clarity.
appreciate the watch tests with the spec sheet readers who have sent similar messages. I am
and score sheet. I am amazed at the number of very grateful for your thoughtfulness. JT

Seebataillon GMT
Mühle Glashütte’s CEO, Thilo Mühle, participated in The Fulda Challenge—an extreme Winter sports competition
that challenges athletes in Canada’s Yukon, complete with dog mushing, snowshoe racing and ice chopping.
With a timepiece chosen for the elite unit of the German Navy on his wrist, the Seebatillon GMT proved
to stand upto the extremes of The Fulda Challenge. In cooperation with the soldiers of the ‘Seebataillon’, an
extremely robust watch with a second time zone has been developed in both design and
functionality, proving it’s well-equipped for every mission—whether or land, sea or in the air.
For more information please contact:

Mühle-Glashütte USA • 727-896-8453 • www.muehle-glashuette.de
E.D. Marshall Jewelers Scottsdale, AZ • Topper Jewelers Burlingame, CA • Feldmar Watch Company Los Angeles, CA
Ravits Watches & Jewelry San Francisco, CA • Right Time Denver & Highlands Ranch, CO • Exquisite Timepieces Naples, FL
Old Northeast Jewelers St. Pete & Tampa, FL • Little Treasury Jewelers Gambrills, MD • World Class Watches Santa Fe, NM
Joseph Edwards New York, NY • Danson Jewelers Hasbrouck Heights, NJ • Martin Pulli Fine Jewelry and Watches Philadelphia, PA
Marvin Scott & Co. Yardley, PA • Jack Ryan Fine Jewelry Austin, TX • Timeless Luxury Watches Frisco, TX
Fox’s Seattle Seattle, WA • Trident Jewels and Time St. Thomas, USVI • Ray’s Jewelry Philipsburg, St. Maarten

WT_0116_Watchtalk_04.qxp 03.12.15 15:37 Seite 30
WATCHtalk
Swiss Smarts
TAG Heuer and Movado join the growing group of
Swiss smartwatch makers.
Three views of
T
wo Swiss watch companies threw has a 46-mm case made of grade 2 titan-
their hats into the smartwatch ring ium. It has a textured black rubber strap the TAG Heuer
Connected
right before the holiday shopping (six other colors – red, blue, white, orange, watch, $1,500
season. One is TAG Heuer, which intro- green and yellow – are available, sold sep-
duced its Connected Watch – first announced arately) with a deployant buckle also made
at last year’s Baselworld. The watch was of titanium. The watch is priced at $1,500
developed in cooperation with Intel Corp. and, as of WatchTime’s late November
and Google and is powered by Android deadline, is available at about 20 U.S.
Wear technology. retailers.
The other company is Movado, which As per Biver’s directive that the watch
launched three smartwatches: two in its “be a connected watch but not look like a
Swiss-made collection and one in its Bold connected watch,” TAG Heuer has devel-
line of less expensive, non-Swiss casual oped three LTPS LCD watch faces
watches. These two join a bevy of Swiss designed to resemble the “real” dials of
smartwatch makers that includes TAG’s Carrera watches, down to such
Frédérique Constant, Alpina, Breitling, details as shadows cast by the “hands” and
Gucci and Mondaine. (Bulgari has sunburst effects. Wearers can switch
announced it is working on a smartwatch between a chronograph, a three-hand dial
but has not yet launched it.) and a GMT dial, all of which display the
TAG unveiled its Connected Watch at a date and are available in a choice of three
press conference at LVMH Tower (LVMH is colors (black, deep blue or white).
the parent company of TAG Heuer) hosted The watch can be synced with a phone
by Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer, running either on Android 4.3 or a later
who was accompanied by Brian Krzanich, version or on iOS 8.2 or later. If your
CEO of Intel Corp. and David Singleton, phone is not with you, the watch will
vice president of engineering for Android at remain connected to the cloud as long as
Google. Bernard Arnault, chairman and you have a Wi-Fi connection.
CEO of LVMH, was also at the press con- The Connected comes equipped with
ference. Here are the watch’s basics: apps including an alarm, stopwatch and Movado
Officially dubbed the TAG Heuer Con- countdown timer. Thousands of other Museum
nected Watch with Intel Inside, the watch apps are available at the Google Play Store. Bellina Motion
watch, $1,495

Adhaesio
One hand – two times
www.meistersinger.net
Old Northeast Jewelers St. Petersburg & Tampa, FL; Exquisite Timepieces Naples, FL; Orlando Watch Company Winter Park, FL; French Riviera Jewelers Miami, FL
Worthmore Jewelers Atlanta, GA; Robert Goodman Jewelers Zionsville, IN; Little Treasury Jewelers Gambrills, MD; Aaron Faber Gallery New York, NY
Bassano Jewelry New York, NY; Danson Jewelers Hasbrouck Heights, NJ; Martin Pulli Fine Jewelry and Watches Philadelphia, PA
Saltzman’s Watches and More Cranston, RI; Arizona Fine Time Scottsdale, AZ; Right Time Int’l Watch Center Denver, CO; Leslie Gold Watch Co. Los Angeles, CA
Ravits Watches & Jewelry San Francisco, CA; Partita Custom Design Jewelry San Francisco, CA; Jewelry Atelier Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA

WATCHtalk
Information from the various apps is dis- ($1,195), or an all-PVD bracelet model
played in the three subdials on the chrono- ($1,495).
graph face. The Bellina is 39 mm in diameter and
The watch has 4 GB of memory. The comes with an all-steel case with either a
power in its battery lasts for about a day, plain steel bezel ($1,495) or a diamond-set
depending on usage. The watch is one ($2,495), or a two-tone case and
equipped with a small microphone to com- bracelet ($1,695). All versions have mother-
municate via Google voice control and a of-pearl and silver-colored dials and dia-
sapphire crystal touchscreen complement- mond markers at 3 and 9 o’clock.
ing the crown at 3 o’clock, which houses The Movado Bold Motion watches
controls. ($695) are also compatible with iOS and
Finally – and this is where the product’s Android phones and tablets (iOS 8 and later
tagline “connected to eternity” comes in – and Android 4.4 and later). The watch is a
anyone who purchases the watch will, for unisex style, 43.5 mm in diameter. It has
an additional $1,500, be able to trade it in Bluetooth connectivity and, using vibra-
two years later, when the warranty expires, tions or visible cues, alerts its wearer to
for a TAG Heuer Carrera watch with a tra- upcoming appointments, e-mails, text
ditional Swiss-made mechanical move- messages, phone calls and social media
ment. The mechanical Carreras have been updates. The watch also tracks steps. The
specially designed for this purpose. They case is made of black ion-plated steel and
also have titanium cases. the strap is black silicone. The Museum
TAG has set up an online platform, Sport, Bellina and Bold smartwatches are
tagheuerconnected.com, so that Connected- available on Movado.com.
watch owners can learn about the latest
Movado Museum Sport Motion watch, $1,195 new features and get new apps. Retailers
carrying the watch are also listed there.
Movado is manufacturing its new
smartwatches in collaboration with
Fullpower Technologies, for the Movado
Q&A
Swiss pieces, and with HP, for the Bold What ex-CEO of a major watch
Movado Bold Motion watch, $695 smartwatches. company just got a $5-million
The Swiss-made watches are called
Movado Motion, and are powered by cash infusion for the smart-
Fullpower’s MotionX-365 platform. (It is watch company he now runs?
the same platform used by Frédérique
Constant and Alpina brands, which both Joe Santana, former CEO of the
unveiled smartwatches last year.) There are Timex Group. In late November,
two versions: the Museum Sport, for men, Santana announced that European
and the Bellina, for women. They provide
several fitness-related functions including venture-capital companies had
steps tracking, sleep monitoring, sleep- invested $5 million in the
cycle alarms and alerts that it is time to get London-based smartwatch firm
out of your chair and move around. The Vector Watch, where he is CEO.
watches are compatible with iOS 8-or-later
and Android 4.4.3-or-later cellphones and
tablets. The watches’ battery life is two
years.
The men’s version, 44 mm in diame-
ter, has a black dial with Movado’s signa-
ture dot at 12 o’clock and a subdial at 6
o’clock that show the date and provide
fitness-tracking information. The watch
is available with a steel case and black
PVD bezel, with either a perforated black
rubber strap ($995) or a steel bracelet

* 1
GPS ATOMIC SOLAR HYBRID* 2
MTGG1000D-1A
©2015 CASIO AMERICA, INC.
*1 As of September 2014, CASIO investigation. *2 Function combining CASIO solar

power-generation with location positioning, determined by GPS (Global Positioning
www.gshock.com/gps System) and time synchronization through reception of terrestrial radio waves.
PPCO_Placed_4492.indd 1 10/13/15 1:22 PM

WATCHtalk
Baselworld
CLASSIC STARS
NEW STARS
Beckons
T he wind is chill; the snow deep.
That can only mean one thing:
Baselworld is right around the corner.
TECHNICAL STARS
This year’s fair will take place March
17 to 24. As usual, it will be at the Basel
fairgrounds, or Messeplatz. This Basel-
world will be the fourth edition of the
fair since the fairgrounds underwent a
$450-million renovation. Baselworld
now has an impressive 141,000 square
meters of exhibition space.
The most famous watch brands are
housed in Hall 1. There and in adjoin-
DESIGN STARS ing buildings, watch and jewelry com-
panies, movement and equipment
STARS FOR A LIFETIME makers and other industry suppliers
show their wares. Some 1,500 brands
exhibit at the fair. About 150,000 visi-
The Envelope, Please tors attend. Watch brands range from

high-end marques like Patek Philippe,
Rolex, Omega and Breitling to myriad
fashion-watch brands. Although
STARS FOR A LIFETIME honors watches
W atchTime’s parent company, the
Ulm, Germany-based Ebner Pub-
lishing International, has held the second
whose technical or design features give
them an appeal that will last for decades.
Baselworld is primarily a trade show, it
is open to the public.
Because Baselworld is where most
edition of its watch awards competition. Eligible watches can be mechanical or of the Swiss-watch industry’s new
Called Watchstars, the competition has five quartz. The winner is the Omega Speed- watches are unveiled, the fair gets huge
categories. The winners are chosen by an master Professional Moonwatch. amounts of publicity all over the
international jury of 76 watch journalists world. Last year, 4,300 journalists
and experts. NEW STARS honors watches, mechanical attended. This was a record number,
or quartz, that have enjoyed successful up 7.5 percent from the prior year.
The winners are: launches. The winner is the Tudor North The fair is open from 9 am to 6 pm
CLASSIC STARS honors mechanical Flag. every day but the last, when it closes at
watches with three hands and no additional Thomas Wanka, editor-in-chief of 4 pm. Tickets are 60 Swiss francs
functions other than a date and/or power- Uhren Magazine, WatchTime’s sister publi- (about $60) for a single-day pass and
reserve display. The winner is the Omega cation under the Ebner umbrella, oversees SF150 for a pass that is good for the
Globemaster. the awards. Gisbert L. Brunner is president entire fair.
of the jury. Ebner launched Watchstars last
TECHNICAL STARS honors mechanical year with an eye to creating an independ-
watches with added functions other than a ent, international watch competition.
date or power-reserve display. The winner Watch companies have no participation in
is the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater from A. the awards. Only jury members, not watch
Lange & Söhne. companies, can nominate watches or vote
for the winners. A list of the jurors is avail-
DESIGN STARS honors watches, either able at www.watchstars.com. Four
quartz or mechanical, with interesting WatchTime editors are among them: Roger
design features. The winner is the MB&F Ruegger, Joe Thompson, Norma Buchanan
Legacy Machine 101. and Mark Bernardo.

WATCHtalk
Stanislas
de Quercize The U.S. wholesale market for watches
was “extremely challenging,” Richemont said.
De Quercize
Steps Down Jewelry Outshines
At Cartier Watches at Richemont
I n a surprise move, Stanislas de Quercize
resigned his post as CEO of Cartier in
early November. Johann Rupert, chairman S ales at the Richemont Group for the
six months ended Sept. 30 rose 15
LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin −
grew 8 percent, to €1.75 billion ($1.85
of the Richemont Group, Cartier’s parent percent, to 5.82 billion euros ($6.17 bil- billion). This growth rate also indicates
company, praised de Quercize for his lion), compared to the same period of the weakness in Cartier watch sales because
“superb career” and said in a statement prior year. In constant-exchange terms, it is higher than that of watches as a cate-
that he and Richemont’s board of directors the increase was 3 percent. Net profit gory (including Cartier watches).
“deeply regret that Stanislas has decided to grew 22 percent to €1.10 billion ($1.17 For the six months, watches accounted
stand down but must accept his decision.” billion). for 48.1 percent (€2.80 billion, or $2.97
Richemont said de Quercize cited “personal Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert billion) of group sales versus 52.2 percent
reasons” for the decision. De Quercize will described the results as “satisfactory.” in the prior-year period.
remain with Richemont as chairman of Strong growth in the company’s own Richemont sales in the Asia Pacific
Richemont France. stores compensated for a decline in region showed a “significant” decline,
De Quercize has been with Richemont demand at wholesale, especially in the the company said, due chiefly to weak-
since 1989. He had two stints in North Asia Pacific region, he said. Jewelry sales ness in Hong Kong and Macao. (At a
America, as CEO of Montblanc North grew much more than watch sales, 30.2 presentation to analysts following release
America from 1994 to 1997, and as presi- percent versus 5.7 percent, respectively. of the figures, Richemont CFO Gary
dent of Cartier New York from 2002 to An analysis of the Richemont figures Saage said wholesale business in Hong
2005. From there, he became global CEO indicates considerable softness in watch Kong was “simply dreadful.”)
of Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris. In 2013, he sales of the company’s biggest brand by Mainland China nonetheless showed
was named global CEO of Cartier in Paris. far, Cartier. Here’s why: sales by what improvement, resuming its growth due to
Richemont announced that Cyrille Richemont calls its “jewelry maisons,” strong sales in Richemont-owned stores,
Vigneron would take over as Cartier CEO the brands that get most of their sales which offset weak sales in the wholesale
as of Jan. 1, 2016. He will also replace de from jewelry, increased 18 percent, to channel. Europe and Asia overall showed
Quercize on Richemont’s Group Manage- €3.18 billion ($3.37 billion). Cartier jew- very strong growth, the company said.
ment Committee. Vigneron is a Cartier vet- elry and watches are both included in this Demand in the Americas was “sub-
eran. He worked at Richemont, principally figure. The fact that jewelry-maison sales dued,” according to Richemont, with
at Cartier, from 1988 to 2013. Passed over (which also include sales by Van Cleef & lower watch sales offset by growing sales
for the CEO position in 2013, he left Arpels and Giampiero Bodino) grew in jewelry, clothing and leather goods.
Richemont to become president of LVMH much less than the jewelry category by Saage called the U.S. wholesale market
Japan. “Cyrille is an old colleague and a itself means that these brands’ growth for watches “extremely challenging.”
highly capable and effective leader,” Rupert was inhibited by relatively weak perform- Gold-and-diamond watches showed
said. “We welcome him back to Cartier.” ances by their non-jewelry products notable weakness, he said. Steel models
Of all the brand CEOs in the (chiefly Cartier watches). did better.
Richemont Group, the head of Cartier is Sales of what Richemont calls its Total Richemont sales generated by
the most important. Cartier has by far the “specialist watchmakers” – A. Lange & Richemont-owned boutiques accounted
highest revenues and profits of any brand Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Panerai, for 54 percent of total sales, compared to
in the Richemont portfolio. Piaget, Roger Dubuis, IWC, Jaeger- 49 percent the year before.
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WATCHtalk
The Pope’s Pick

J orge Mario Bergoglio, better known
as Pope Francis, is a Jesuit and as
such took a vow of poverty. Hence his
The Swatch watch: a Swatch Once Again, which sells
Once Again for an affordable $50. The watch has a
costs $50. black plastic case and white dial and
shows the day and date. His previous
watch was a Casio.
Pope Francis’s predecessor, German-
born Pope Benedict XVI, wore a German
watch – a Junghans that he inherited
from his deceased sister. Pope John Paul
II wore a Rolex. Pius IX (who was pope
from 1846 to 1878) and Pope Leo XIII
(1878 to 1903) wore pocketwatches
made by Patek Philippe.
– MELANIE FEIST
Chrono Accessories
high. The multilevel dial has apertures
V isconti, the Florence, Italy producer of
luxury pens and watches, has intro-
duced a new collection of limited-edition
that show the movement. The grid on the
dial of the Monza watch has an anthracite
chronographs (a total of 1,000 pieces) that coating with soleil finish and details in
come with matching pens and cufflinks. galvanic black and red. The hour indexes
Called the Opera Metal collection, all three are nickel, with luminescent inserts. The
products are designed using what Visconti design of the skeletonized hour and min-
founder Dante Del Vecchio calls “the utes hands are exclusive to Visconti.
squared circle” motif, which combines a The watches contain Swiss automatic
circle in a square. The watch design sets a chronograph movements (VI-AC304-03)
circular bezel on an octagonal case. adjusted to four positions, with 57 Visconti’s Monza Opera Metal
There are four versions in the collection: rubies. The power reserve is 40 hours. chronograph with matching pen
and cufflinks
Monza (red and black colors), Silver Shadow The matching pen is either a fountain
(silver and black), Roadster (yellow and pen with a patented tubular Chromium
black) and Speedboat (blue and white). 18 nib or a roller ball. The pens and cuff-
The watch case and lugs are made of links are produced in Visconti’s ateliers in
AISI316 stainless steel, which is micro- Florence.
blasted, polished, and satin-finished with Suggested retail prices for the watches
black PVD coating. The case is water resist- are $5,950 for the Monza and Roadster
ant to 100 meters. The architecture of the and $5,750 for the Silver Shadow and
case and dial is complex. The lugs are Speedboat. The complete set (watch, pen,
screwed into the bezel and case. The case cufflinks) costs $6,500 for the Monza
is 55.40 mm long, 47.15 mm wide and Roadster and $6,250 for the Silver
(including the crown), and 17.10 mm Shadow and Speedboat.

BABYLONIAN
Hand Engraved movement, Hand winding.
Open dial with mother of pearl ring, blued hands.
Stainless steel. 5 ATM. Limited edition of 300 pieces.
ARIZONA FINE TIME

7830 E. Gelding Drive, Suite 100
Scottsdale, AZ 85260 • Phone: (480) 214-0272
Email: info@azﬁnetime.com • Web: www.azﬁnetime.com

WT_0116_Quiz_03.qxp 02.12.15 11:58 Seite 40
WATCHquiz
quizs
2015: The Year

In Watches
Looking back on watch-related
What brand unveiled the most complicated watch
events of the year gone by in the world?
1. Which watch company did not 6. Which of the following roiled the 11. What well-known watchmaker
introduce a smartwatch during the year? Swiss-watch industry throughout the designed a movement for Fabergé?
A. Breitling year? A. Antoine Preziuso
B. Mondaine A. The weakness of the Swiss franc B. Felix Baumgartner
C. Movado B. The strength of the Swiss franc C. Christophe Claret
D. None of the above. They all launched C. The end of quantitative easing in China D. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht
smartwatches. D. Fear of a Nivarox bankruptcy
12. Which company announced it had
2. In November, TAG Heuer launched 7. Rolex launched a new movement, appointed a new CEO?
a smartwatch that Caliber 3255, in which model? A. IWC
A. Needs recharging just once a week A. Submariner B. Casio
B. Can be traded in for a mechanical B. Cosmograph Daytona C. Rolex
watch C. Cellini Automatic D. Breitling
C. Is cheaper than most Apple watches D. Day-Date
D. Is square in shape 13. Which brand hired New England
8. What brand unveiled the world’s most Patriots quarterback Tom Brady to
3. How did Patek Philippe get tongues complicated watch? appear in ads?
wagging at Baselworld? A. Patek Philippe A. Movado
A. It kept a caged tiger cub in its booth. B. Jaeger-LeCoultre B. Citizen
B. It launched a smartwatch. C. Vacheron Constantin C. TAG Heuer
C. It launched a pilots’ watch. D. A. Lange & Söhne D. Rolex
D. It announced it was raising U.S. prices
by 7 percent. 9. How did Tudor make news? 14. What watch brand announced it had
A. It brought out quartz women’s watches. formed a partnership with rapper and
4. Bulova introduced a watch that B. It launched its first in-house music producer will.i.am to launch a
was far afield from its other models. movement. smartwatch?
What was it? C. It was acquired by the Swatch Group. A. Oris
A. A tourbillon with an Arnold & Son D. It pulled out of the U.S. market. B. Gucci
movement C. Shinola
B. An ultra-thin minute repeater 10. La Joux-Perret resurrected what old D. Raymond Weil
C. A fitness tracker called Accu-thon Swiss watch brand?
D. A watch with a 24k-gold case A. Angelus 15. Which brand introduced a smart
B. Houriet watch strap called the e-Strap?
5. Who was named CEO of the Sowind C. Badollet A. TAG Heuer
Group, parent of Girard-Perregaux? D. Humbert B. Frédérique Constant
A. Antonio Calce C. Montblanc
B. Jérôme Lambert D. Seiko
C. Georges Kern
D. Stephen Urquhart
11D; 12B; 13C; 14B; 15C
Answers: 1D; 2B; 3C; 4D; 5A; 6B; 7D; 8C; 9B; 10A;

BASELWORLD.COM
Te one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery
industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations.
Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.
MARCH 17 – 24, 2016

WT_0116_BRAND_NEW_05_Proof.qxp 03.12.15 14:24 Seite 42
BRAND NEW
HYSEK
• Hysek’s new Verdict Double
Tourbillon with blue sapphire dial
uses a special iridescent dial treatment,
which creates a tint with highlights
and subtle color variations for the
movement it houses. First unveiled by
Hysek in 2003, the brand’s new
process gives the dial deeper color and
more highlights.
• The whole watch movement is
revealed on the dial side.
• Two independent tourbillons are
joined together by a central differential,
which distributes force evenly to each
of the two balances. This mechanism
regulates the speed of each tourbillon
and doubles the caliber’s accuracy.
• Hysek has also added to its movement
a double micro-rotor in rose gold and
platinum.
• 46-mm case in grade 5 titanium
• Limited series of eight pieces
• A rose-gold version is also available.
• As shown, $234,000
BALL WATCH
• The Fireman Storm Chaser DLC
Glow uses an entirely black color
RADO scheme and brightly luminous
indicators to evoke lightning in
• Three new watches in brown high-tech ceramic the darkness.
have been added to Rado’s HyperChrome family. • Telemeter scale makes it possible
The color and material combination pays homage to calculate the distance of an
to Switzerland’s Maîtres Chocolatiers. observable event that produces a
• The high-tech ceramic used to craft these sound, such as a lightning strike.
watches is scratch resistant, lightweight, • 66 micro gas tubes illuminate the
and adapts to the wearer’s body dial – blue for each minutes index,
temperature. orange at 12, green for the
• Due to the properties of ceramic, the chronograph functions, and
brown hue will not fade over time. yellow for the hour, minutes and
• Each model has a date window. seconds hands.
• Rose-gold-colored accents on the • 43-mm DLC-coated stainless-steel
dial and case case with “Doppler Radar on
• The HyperChrome Automatic Wheels” on the caseback
Chronograph Tachymeter shown • Automatic ETA 7750 movement
has a 45-mm diameter case. • Withstands shocks up to 5,000 Gs
• Also available in a three-hand version • Also available with a white dial
and a version with diamonds. • Limited edition of 1,999 pieces
• As shown, $4,800 • $3,699

PPCO Placed_1753 4/9/14 8:33 AM Page 1
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RAYMOND WEIL
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
• Raymond Weil’s new Maestro timepiece is a
tribute to the brand’s watchmaking roots and • The Senator Observer 2015 takes up the tradition of
its source of inspiration: music. It is an evolution observation watches and pays particular attention to the
of the brand’s first Maestro watch, launched in legibility of the watch’s time indicators.
2010. • The brand’s own dial factory in Pforzheim, Germany,
• The new model features pure, taut lines, delicate uses Super-LumiNova to highlight individual elements,
dial decoration and modern hands and indexes. such as the white-gold hour and minutes hands, the
• Large date window at 3 o’clock Arabic numerals and the chapter ring hour indexes.
• Polished steel fluted crown with RW monogram • Small-seconds dial at 9 o’clock
• Automatic movement • 55-hour power reserve at 3 o’clock with German
• 38-hour power reserve “Auf” and “Ab” indicators
• The 39.5-mm polished stainless-steel case • Panorama date at 6 o’clock
balances the black dial and black leather strap. • 44-mm stainless-steel case
• Sapphire caseback • In-house automatic Caliber 100-14
• $1,095 • Sapphire caseback
• Available with a leather strap or stainless-steel bracelet
• As shown, $11,800
NOMOS
• Nomos is introducing five new
Neomatik models, each in two versions:
one with blue accents on a white silver-
plated dial and one with neon orange
details on a champagne-colored dial.
• In-house automatic DUW 3001 Caliber,
only 3.2 mm thick
• 42-hour power reserve
• All models are 35 or 36 mm in
diameter.
• New rembordé strap with in-house
designed buckle clasp
• Sapphire caseback
• First-edition engraving on the case
• Shown, the Minimatik Champagner
with 35.5-mm case
• As shown, $3,800

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WT_0116_IWC Test_04_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 13:18 Seite 50
A CLASSIC
REVAMPED
A test of the venerable IWC Portugieser, equipped with a new,
improved movement
BY JENS KOCH
PHOTOS BY MARCUS KRÜGER
February 2016 WatchTime 51

TEST
IWC Portugieser Automatic
The rotor and movement bridges

are skeletonized to reveal more of
the components.
H olding a freshly assembled Por-

tugieser Automatic with its
newly redesigned caliber in your
hand, you’re reluctant to reach
for a screwdriver and begin dis-
assembling it: that process turns
a smoothly functioning whole
into a lifeless assortment of
screws, levers and wheels. So let’s postpone the vivisection for a
moment to review the Portugieser’s history.
That history began when IWC was contacted by two Por-
equipped the Portugieser with IWC’s first manufacture caliber
in many decades: the self-winding Caliber 5000, whose most
notable feature was its seven-day power reserve. The watch,
called the Portugieser Automatic 2000, was produced in a lim-
ited edition of 2,000 watches. The watch had a power-reserve
display at 3 o’clock and a subdial for the seconds at 9 o’clock.
With a diameter of 38.2 mm, Caliber 5000 was the world’s
largest self-winding wristwatch movement to date. This was a
daring step for IWC because the caliber would not have been
able to fit in a case smaller than that of the Portugieser, which
had retained its original diameter of 42 mm. If the then-nascent
tuguese merchants who wanted to offer naval officers a large trend for large watches had petered out, the movement would
wristwatch that could keep time with the precision of a marine soon have been useless. It didn’t, of course, and the Portugieser
chronometer. IWC responded in 1939 by putting Caliber 74H4, Automatic went on to become a huge success.
a pocketwatch movement with a diameter slightly larger than In designing Caliber 5000, IWC revived one of its signature
38 mm, in a 42-mm steel case. The movement, which had a sub- movement features: the Pellaton winding system. IWC’s then
dial for the seconds at 6 o’clock, was topped by a tidy-looking technical director, Albert Pellaton, had developed the mecha-
dial with a railroad-style minutes circle and Arabic numerals. In nism in the early 1950s for Caliber 85, and as a result the move-
an era when men liked their watches small and elegant, a Por- ment became famous for its reliability.
tugieser must have looked like some kind of measuring instru- The unlimited version of the Portugieser Automatic, which
ment of unknown purpose. The first models were therefore followed in 2004, included a date display at 6 o’clock. The cal-
manufactured in relatively small numbers: only a few hundred iber was given the five-digit designation “50010” and the
were made before production ceased in 1958. architecture of the automatic bridge was modified. The next
The Portugieser first tasted success in 1993, when IWC evolutionary step, which changed Caliber 50010 into Caliber
made a limited edition of the watch. Like its ancestor, the new 51010, followed in 2005, when a fine-adjustment mechanism
version contained a pocketwatch movement. In 2000, the brand via weight screws on the balance replaced the earlier mecha-

The new rotor (right) is

lighter, prettier and simpler
to disassemble.
nism with index and eccentric screw. The balance spring could IWC unveiled another major revision of the Portugieser
now breathe freely throughout its entire length. The balance’s Automatic at the SIHH fair in Geneva last year. Only one-third
frequency was increased from 18,000 to 21,600 vph. Both of the components in the movement remained unchanged in this
modifications helped to improve the accuracy of the rate. A new version, which was given the number 52010. Another third of
profile for the teeth debuted in 2008, the same year that IWC its parts were entirely new and the final third were basically the
replaced the rubies that bore the barrel with a bearing made of same but altered in some way. It is this movement that we are
beryllium bronze. This change reduced the number of jewels going to take apart and examine.
from 44 to 42. The name was changed to 51011. Early in 2013,
IWC revised the Pellaton winding mechanism to further reduce MASTER WATCHMAKER Florian Pikor, of Wempe Jewelers in
wear. The ratchet lever was now composed of ceramic rather Hamburg, Germany, begins the dismantling process by separat-
than beryllium bronze and the winding wheel was made of ing the watch from its crocodile-skin strap. He then unscrews
annealed steel instead of nickel silver. the back of the case, which is fitted with a large sapphire win-
Many customers mistook the ceramic, which was white, for dow, pulls out the crown shaft and frees the movement from the
plastic, and this prompted questions about the movement’s case. After removing the hands and dial, the movement lies in its
quality. Furthermore, a few weak points still remained in the pure form on his worktable.
device: the large and heavy rotor, combined with the enormous We notice that the rotor has been changed from the one in
amount of force needed to wind the seven-day barrel, produced the old Portugieser: the golden medallion is smaller and the
much friction in the movement, which thus suffered abrasion. rotor’s spokes are pierced to reveal more of the underlying com-

TEST
The balance is free sprung:

CHANGES MADE TO THE
four weight screws are used
for fine adjustment. The
PORTUGIESER INCLUDE
balance spring has a
Breguet curve. ADDING A SECOND BARREL
AND INCREASING THE
BALANCE’S FREQUENCY.
The bridges under the rotor have a totally new layout. Large
piercings in the bridges reveal the underlying barrels and
wheels. The edges are beveled but they aren’t polished, which
would have made them prettier. The circular pattern of Geneva
waves looks very handsome on the bridges.
The Pellaton winding system is now visible, too. The princi-
ple behind the device is simple. A heart-shaped cam is mounted
on the rotor. A rocker with two ruby rollers embraces the cam
like a pincer. When the rotor turns, the rocker moves. Attached
to the rocker are two winding ratchets that mesh with the auto-
matic wheel. Whichever way the rocker tips, one winding ratchet
or the other turns the automatic wheel, thus conveying force to
tighten the mainsprings.
In this new version, the winding ratchets and automatic
wheel are made of low-wear zirconium-oxide ceramic. This
should prevent the heavy wear that used to afflict this portion of
the mechanism. The technicians also hardened the pins in the
ruby rollers so they don’t need to be replaced as often. Zircon-
ium-oxide ceramic serves in the rotor’s bearing as well, helping
to reduce wear. The ceramic parts are now glossy black so they
don’t look like plastic.
Other parts of the movement underwent even bigger
changes. IWC increased the balance’s frequency from 21,600 to
28,800 vph. And instead of one barrel, there are now two.
Adding a barrel, of course, fundamentally altered spatial rela-
tionships within the movement. So did increasing the balance’s
ponents. Beveled edges and handsome skeletonizing give the frequency: it required changing the gear ratios, which meant
oscillating weight a three-dimensional look. With raised letter- different wheel diameters and therefore different locations for
ing and sunburst embellishment radiating from its gold-plated the wheels.
medallion, this rotor is truly an eye-catcher. Both changes were made for the sake of precision. Two bar-
The new rotor is also much simpler to unlock. In the past, a rels are enormously helpful in improving the watch’s rate. Rely-
watchmaker needed first to remove a screw and then, using a ing on just one to provide such a long power reserve meant that
fair amount of force, extract the safety slide from the rotor’s the mainspring’s torque differed drastically between its fully
staff. Now the safety slide, which is positioned under the rotor, wound and nearly unwound states. This difference altered the
can be pushed aside with the tip of a screwdriver; a spring then amplitude, i.e., the arc through which the balance swings, and
pulls the slide back into its starting position. these fluctuations in amplitude adversely affected the rate. Two
And the rotor is lighter than before. For comparison’s sake, barrels cut this difference nearly in half.
we weighed a rotor from the previous caliber and the one from Our measurements on the timing machine showed that this
this caliber. The new one weighs 5.02 grams: 0.65 grams less improvement was necessary. With power from two barrels, the
than its forebear. This yields weight savings of approximately amplitude after five days declined by 30 degrees, an acceptable
13 percent, an important detail because in some old Portugieser amount. But it declined an additional 45 degrees when the
watches, the heavy oscillating weight had snapped the rotor’s movement was shifted from flat positions to hanging ones. Any
staff. This is now less likely. further decline caused by a major decrease in torque would have

IWC added more ceramic

components to reduce wear
in the Pellaton winding
mechanism.
had a very deleterious effect on the rate. Thanks to twin barrels, could. The heads of the screws, on the other hand, are meticu-
however, the movement keeps time quite well: we measured a lously polished. The result is a mixed picture, so to speak. We’re
gain of from +1 to +8 seconds per day when it was fully wound pleased to report that IWC’s watchmakers have attractively
and from 0 to +12 seconds per day five days later. adorned whatever surfaces can be seen from the outside.
The watch’s long power reserve is of practical value only if Other details, including the fine adjustment mechanism, are
you leave the watch unworn for a few days. If you wear it regu- well made, too. The balance spring terminates in a Breguet
larly, it keeps itself almost fully wound, even if you work at a curve. And the oscillating system can breathe freely thanks to
desk and don’t move your arm very much. This indicates that fine adjustment without an index. The frequency can be finely
the winding mechanism is quite efficient. adjusted by turning four weight screws on the rim of the bal-
ance. IWC supplies its authorized repair centers with a special
AS PIKOR CONTINUES to take the movement apart, we see tool that fits the square heads of these screws.
that IWC did not decorate the undersides of the components. The switching for the date mechanism is another special fea-
Unfortunately, scarcely any manufacturers nowadays embellish ture. To minimize friction, the date ring runs on a narrow track
surfaces that ordinarily remain unseen. Stamped parts, e.g., the milled into the plate. A switching cam shaped like a broad spi-
stop-seconds lever, therefore don’t look quite as pretty as they (Continued on page 58)

TEST

TEST
SPECS
The folding clasp IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC
is easy to operate;
it and the strap Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen,
are well made. Baumgartenstrasse 15, CH-8200
Schaffhausen, Switzerland
Reference number: IW500705
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds,
date display, power-reserve display
Movement: Self-winding manufacture
Caliber 52010, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels,
stop-seconds function, rapid-reset for the
date display, Incabloc shock absorption,
fine adjustment via weight screws on the
Glucydur balance, seven-day power
reserve, diameter = 37.8 mm, height =
7.5 mm
Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire
crystal with nonreflective coating on
both sides, fully threaded screw-in back
with sapphire window, water resistant to
30 m
Strap and clasp: Crocodile-skin strap
with stainless-steel folding clasp
Rate results:
Deviations in seconds per 24 hours
(Fully wound / after five days)
Dial up +2 / +3
(Continued from page 55) Dial down +2 / +4
ral switches the ring. The elastic shape assures that the date Crown up +8 / 0
advances instantaneously: the front part of the switching cam Crown down +1 / +12
continues to press against the corresponding switching finger of
Crown left +5 / +6
the date ring until enough force builds up to overcome the pres-
Crown right +4 / +6
sure of a spring that holds the disk in its current position; when
enough force has been amassed, the disk suddenly advances one Greatest deviation of rate 7 / 12
increment. The sprung switching cam can also slip in the other Average deviation +3.7 / +5.2
direction so you can set the date even when it’s close to midnight Average amplitude:
without fear of damaging the mechanism. Flat positions 313° / 282°
As they were revamping the movement, IWC’s technicians Hanging positions 268° / 237°
strove to make it simpler. One example: in the old version, small Dimensions: Diameter = 42.3 mm,
screws were used to affix the oscillating weight to the rotor height = 14.5 mm, weight = 103 g
beneath it but in the new one, the weight is riveted and glued to Variations: Rose gold ($24,400)
the rotor. One consequence of such simplifications is a reduc-
Price: $13,300
tion in the number of jewels from 42 to 31. This was probably
a good decision because, as a general rule, the simpler a device
is, the less likely it is to malfunction. If a mechanism has fewer
screws, for instance, then it also has fewer screws that could
loosen or fall out.
After Pikor has removed the rotor, bridges, gear train, bal- THERE WASN’T MUCH NEED for improvement to the case,
ance and barrels, the last items remaining to disassemble are although small alterations were made in the strap lugs and the
two very thin but large bridges that host the lion’s share of the spring bars are now curved. The Portugieser is very comfortable
hand-setting and winding mechanism, along with the surpris- to wear: it doesn’t slip or slide back and forth on the wrist as
ingly large number of wheels required for the power-reserve dis- some other large watches do. Despite its ample diameter, this
play. As we survey all the components lying on the table in front model no longer ranks among the largest watches on the mar-
of us, we’re impressed by the many improvements IWC has ket. But its large crystal, small numerals and big, flat dial make
made to the Portugieser movement. it look larger than it actually is.

WATCH_ppcoplcd 4420.1 11/12/14 8:39 AM Page 1
www.greubelforsey.com
GMT
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Phone +1 212 221-8041 ∙ info@timeartdistribution.com
TEST
Potential purchasers are likely to be attracted by the watch’s

famous face, which includes a railroad-style minutes circle, sym-
metrically arranged subdials with grooved patterns on their sur-
faces, applied hour numerals and slender hands. The blued hands
and numerals contrast boldly with the silver-colored dial, so the
watch is extremely easy to read, assuming there’s enough ambient
light: there’s no luminous material on this elegant watch’s dial.
The case seems rather plain at first glance, but a closer look
reveals many fine details, including satin-finished sides, a pol-
ished concave bezel and a polished back wreathed by concave
grooves. The craftsmanship is of very high quality, the polishing
is impeccably tidy, and no tool marks could be found anywhere.
Fine workmanship is also evident in the crocodile-skin strap.
It was meticulously machine-sewn and the edges of the cut band
were neatly lacquered. With its satin-finished surfaces and pol-
ished edges, the folding clasp is a good match for the case and
has faithfully served IWC for many years.
The clasp closes smoothly and securely. It can be reopened
with equal ease and reliability. Setting the watch is made quite
easy by a large unthreaded crown, a stop-seconds function and Twin barrels
the rapid-reset mechanism for the date display. increase the rate’s
Do the watch’s praiseworthy features mean that all’s well? accuracy.
Well, yes and no. This watch has one shortcoming we must
Three generations of parts from the

Pellaton winding system: ratchet levers
and winding wheels from (left to right)
2015 (black ceramic), 2013 (white
ceramic and annealed steel) and 2005
(beryllium bronze and nickel silver)

WATCH_ppcoplcd 1800cx.1:Layout 1 4/14/14 12:42 PM Page 1
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TEST
SCORES
IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC
Strap and clasp (max. 10 points):
Tidy craftsmanship, easy operation and
handsome styling distinguish the folding
clasp and crocodile-skin strap. 9
Operation (5): With a large unthreaded
crown, a rapid-reset mechanism for the
date display and a stop-seconds function,
the Portugieser makes its owner’s life
quite easy. 5
Case (10): The neatly polished and satin-
finished case has clean lines; it also offers
the refined detail of a concave bezel. 8
Design (15): Could this watch’s styling
be improved? We don’t think so. 15
Legibility (5): The hands and numerals
contrast perfectly with the dial, but
Many gears are
they’re not coated with luminous
needed for the power-
material. 4 reserve display.
Wearing comfort (10): Very comfortable
on the wrist; this watch isn’t as big as it
looks. 8
Movement (20): The seven-day movement
is practically an icon in its own right.
Now IWC has significantly improved it to
mention: the steel model sells for $13,300. Notwithstanding
increase its precision, reduce wear and
the excellent seven-day movement and thoroughly fine crafts-
improve reliability. 18
manship, that’s a lot of money. Rolex charges half as much for
Rate results (10): Slight gain, no similarly well-crafted watches (although none of them has a
excessive differences among the several seven-day movement). If it’s any consolation, IWC didn’t raise
positions and a somewhat too large the already high price for the new Portugieser with the
decline in the amplitude in the hanging
improved caliber.
positions yield a satisfactory result. 7
If the price tag doesn’t frighten you away,
Overall value (15): IWC charges a high purchasing this revised classic will make
price for the Portugieser Automatic; other you the proud owner of the best Por-
brands offer less costly manufacture- tugieser Automatic that has ever been
made watches of equal quality. 10
built. This watch is handsome and
TOTAL: 84 POINTS sleekly simple, and it’s powered by a
terrific in-house movement. 
The watch is also

available with a
rose-gold case.

WATCH_ppcoplcd 1044.1:Layout 1 2/12/14 10:46 AM Page 1
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WT_0116_DieterDelecate_05_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 13:28 Seite 64
MEET
MR. TUTIMA
Dieter Delecate has spent 61 years in the
watch business. He’s seen a few things.
BY JOE THOMPSON
Jörg and Ute

Delecate, seen here
with their father,
Dieter, are the
management team
at the Tutima Group
in Germany.
neer of the mechanical-watch renaissance; his mechanical Tutima
I
n 1954, a young man in Ganderkesee, a town in the north-
ern part of West Germany, heard that a local watch company NATO Chronograph of 1985 was far ahead of its time. And in
was hiring. He went to the factory, interviewed with the 1990, in the earliest days of German reunification, he was one
owner, and got a job. He was 19 years old. of the first West German watch executives to visit the East
The teenager was Dieter Delecate and he has been working German watchmaking town of Glashütte, in a quest to return
in the watch business ever since, a total of 61 years. He founded Tutima to its birthplace.
Dieter Delecate Uhrenfabrikation in Ganderkesee in 1960, Over the years, Delecate has deliberately kept a low profile.
reviving the Tutima brand on his watches. The company, owned If there must be a spotlight, he prefers it be on his watches, not
and led by him, later became Tutima Uhrenfabrik GmbH. His on him. Recently, though, he agreed to an interview to discuss a
career has coincided with a series of momentous events that watch career that spans seven decades. I met with him, his son
shook and radically reshaped the watch world. Delecate dealt Jörg and daughter Ute, both executives with the Tutima Group,
with all of them. An early visitor to Hong Kong, he was able to and Tutima’s long-time U.S. distributor, Gustavo Calzadilla, at
successfully navigate the quartz-watch revolution that wreaked Tutima headquarters in Glashütte to discuss the good life and
havoc on so many European watch companies. He was a pio- turbulent times of Mr. Tutima.

Dieter Delecate at
Tutima Glashütte
PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
Delecate in
the 1960s
Tutima founder
Ernst Kurtz hired
Delecate in 1954.
I.
“WHY TUTIMA?”
The man who hired Delecate was Ernst Kurtz. Dr. Kurtz, as
Delecate always refers to him, is a heroic figure in the history of
German watchmaking. He was the founder and head of
Glashütte’s largest watch company, UROFA-UFAG, and the
creator of the Tutima brand, Glashütte’s first and at that time
finest wristwatch. He had come to Glashütte, Germany’s famed
center of precision watchmaking, in the mid-1920s to deal with
Kurtz’s factory,
the economic crisis brought on by World War I. The market for
Uhrenfabrik
Kurtz, in fine pocketwatches, Glashütte’s prime product, had collapsed
Ganderkersee, during the war and never recovered. The ravages of the post-
Germany, in war economy plunged several Glashütte watchmaking firms
the 1950s into bankruptcy. A Saxony bank sent Kurtz, a young lawyer, to
Glashütte to deal with the crisis.
Over the next two decades, Kurtz revived the industry there.
He introduced machine production of wristwatches, using the
Tutima label for the top-quality models. In the 1930s, his UROFA-
UFAG group employed 1,000 people in Glashütte. World War
II, however, destroyed everything Kurtz had built, including the
Tutima brand. The day before the war ended, Kurtz and his col-
leagues fled Glashütte for Bavaria, which was in the American
zone of occupation. There, in the town of Memmelsdorf, Kurtz
But times were tough. The center of watchmaking in West

Germany was now Pforzheim in the south. Kurtz had trouble
competing with its low priced, mass produced products. The
company changed hands twice before going out of business in
1959.
Delecate moved quickly to preserve his mentor’s legacy. In
1960, he decided to revive the Tutima brand name. He
acquired the rights to the brand, hired some of Kurtz’s techni-
cal staff and started his own watch production company,
Tutima Uhrenfabrik GmbH, in Ganderkesee. His embrace of
the Tutima brand was risky. Tutima was from another time
and, since 1949, another country, the Communist German
Democratic Republic, known as East Germany. “Tutima was
The UFAG factory the past,” Delecate says, “from Glashütte and the 1930s.
in Glashütte, Now there was a new time. It was after the war, a new world,
where Tutima was a new start. Nobody remembered the Tutima brand from
born
before the war. People didn’t know what it was. Is it Japanese?
Is it clothing? What is it? And the young watchmakers, the
new watch stores, they didn’t like it. Even my salespeople at
that time said, ‘Why do you use this brand? People don’t
know it.’” But the 25-year-old boss was adamant. “We must
use it,” he told them. “It’s a Glashütte brand. It has a founda-
tion. It has a history.”
With about a dozen technicians assembling movements and
watches, Delecate relaunched Tutima, first with ladies’ watches,
then gents’. Cheering Delecate on was Kurtz, who was delighted
to see the Tutima brand on the German market again. “Dr.
Kurtz was a bit surprised,” Delecate says. “He wrote to some-
one, ‘Oh, Delecate is smarter than me. He’s using the Tutima
brand. It’s a big success.’ But he was wrong,” Delecate says,
with a smile. “It was difficult. I think he was right to put
‘Glashütter Tradition’ on his dials instead of Tutima at that
time.”
Delecate’s commitment to the Tutima brand pleased Kurtz.
Delecate: Delecate still has a private letter in which Kurtz states, “I con-
“Nobody sider Dieter Delecate my successor.”
remembered the There were many challenges in the beginning, Delecate says.
Tutima brand.” Sourcing components was one. Kurtz had gone out of business
by insisting on making his own movement components in
house. To compete with Pforzheim brands, Delecate had to rely
on outside suppliers for components. (Complete mechanical
opened a small watch factory. In 1951, he moved the watch- movements were not available in those days; producers assem-
making operation to Ganderkesee, near Bremen, and produced bled their own movements with components purchased from
wristwatches under his own name in the top-quality tradition of parts suppliers.) But Pforzheim suppliers made life difficult for
Glashütte. The watches carried the logo “KURTZ” with the him. “The Pforzheim people didn’t like to sell movement parts
words “GLASHÜTTER TRADITION” in italic beneath it. As to us in north Germany. We were competition and they didn’t
for Tutima, it was gone, bombed into oblivion by the Russian like that.” So he bought movement parts from suppliers in
planes that hit Glashütte on May 8, 1945, the day before the France. Plus, there was competition in the market from a new
war ended. category of retailer in Germany, department stores, which were
Kurtz became Delecate’s mentor. “He talked a lot about verboten for Tutima. Quality mid-priced brands like Tutima
Glashütte,” Delecate remembers. “Even on the first day, he told were sold in watch shops. Those shops boycotted any brand
me about Glashütte and his past.” And his brand, Tutima. Dele- that attempted to supply watches to department stores. “It was
cate started in an administrative post, and then moved into very hard,” Delecate says.
sales. In 1957, he set up his own wholesale watch company, act- “Then, in 1969, I read somewhere that Hong Kong made
ing as an agent for Kurtz watches. watch cases and watch dials, and I said, ‘Oh!’” Off he went.

PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
II.
TO HONG KONG
Delecate does not claim to be the first German watch executive
to source parts in Hong Kong. “I was the second,” he says with
a smile. He discovered who was first on his first trip there. He
was directed to a certain factory that made watch cases. “I saw
a number of boxes addressed to a quite well-known Pforzheim
brand and that gave me confidence. I ordered 8,000 stainless-
steel cases right away. It was a big number for me.” He also
bought watch dials there. The deal paid off: he got quality parts A Tutima
at a great price. multifunction
Once Delecate started sourcing appearance parts in Hong LCD watch
Kong (he still used French parts for his movements), his watch
business picked up. He tapped into the growing department
store trade by making private-label watches for Karstadt, a Then came the quartz revolution, which transformed the
major department store chain in Germany, under its house watch world in the mid-1970s. Delecate managed it nimbly. By
brand. He was one of Karstadt’s main suppliers of watches for then he knew Far East watch centers very well. He shifted Tutima
25 years. to an all-quartz line. But soon he gave up quartz digital watches
Sales of Tutima watches picked up, too, as Delecate began and successfully started production of high quality analog watches
forging its identity as a rugged, high-performance men’s watch. in Ganderkesee, with movements from Switzerland and other
Jörg Delecate, COO of the Tutima Group, remembers an inci- parts sourced in Asia. In 1979, he set up his own quartz-watch
dent at school in 1973, when he was nine years old. “I had a company in Hong Kong, Tutima Hong Kong Ltd. Why ship all
real sporty watch, a Tutima mechanical with luminous indexes. the components to Germany when they could more easily be
It was a divers’ watch with a rubber strap and a turning bezel. assembled in Hong Kong? In 1982, he relocated to Hong Kong
We went to swimming class and I was the only one wearing my to manage the business; it became his primary residence. Since
watch in the pool. And the others, even the teacher, said, ‘Hey, then, he has split his time between Hong Kong and Germany.
you’re still wearing your watch!’ I said, ‘Yes, of course, it’s (Today, that operation produces Boccia Titanium quartz fashion
waterproof.’ That was very unusual at that time. Dieter was watches, a brand Delecate launched in 2002. Boccia Titanium is
already making a lot of good, really tough, watches.” one of Germany’s best-selling fashion watches, adorning the
wrists of such luminaries as Chancellor Angela Merkel.)
Tutima quartz
analog watches

III.
THE NATO CHRONO
Not long after Delecate moved to Hong Kong, the German
Army solicited bids from German watch companies for an offi-
cial Air Force chronograph. Their specs required that the watch
have a mechanical movement since there was no telling when a
quartz watch battery would die. Tutima bid on the contract.
Delecate and his team worked hard to fulfill the tough technical
conditions of the German government’s tender. They created the
requested big-space pushers integrated into the case.
Other pilot requirements were a center chronograph min-
utes counter with red jet-plane-shaped tip. It was much easier to
read than the small 30-minute subdials common to most
chronographs. An all-red chronograph seconds hand also swept
the full dial. A 12-hour chronograph counter was at 6 o’clock
and a 24-hour indicator at 12 o’clock. The watch’s stainless-
steel case was 14.5 mm thick to protect the movement from
A West German Air Force pilot
wearing Tutima’s NATO magnetic fields of up to 1,000 oersted and shocks up to 7 Gs.
Chronograph watch Inside was the self-winding Caliber 5100 from Switzerland’s
Lemania.
TUTIMA’S NATO CHRONOGRAPH

OF 1985 WAS AHEAD OF ITS TIME.
IT ANTICIPATED TRENDS THAT
BLOOMED IN THE NEXT DECADE.
The West German Army tested the watch and Tutima got
the bid. Delecate’s innovative chrono pushers were a decisive
factor, he later learned. Tutima began supplying the chrono-
graph to the West German Air Force. It carried the NATO NSN
number “6645-12-194-8642.” Also, Germany’s fellow pilots in
NATO wore it. In 1985, Delecate offered the watch to the pub-
lic. But in the “thin is in” watch world of the mid-1980s, there
was little interest in Delecate’s thick watch with its old-fash-
ioned movement.
“We tried to sell it, of course,” he says. “We sold some in the
retail shops in Germany, but it was not exciting. Japanese quartz
watches were exciting. The Japanese flooded Europe with
quartz watches. In every store window you saw Japanese quartz
analog watches, with colored dials. Mechanical chronographs
were not very popular. Only a few people were interested in
them.
“That’s why everybody destroyed their mechanical watch-
making equipment,” Delecate says. “There was a manufacturer
from Pforzheim whom we met at the time, who said he had 500
Delecate launched
the Tutima NATO
mechanical Swiss chronograph movements in his inventory and
Chronograph in he threw them away.” Lemania in those days was happy to have
1985. orders from Tutima for its movement. “We still have a good

PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
relationship with Lemania,” Delecate says of the firm now and handed him a letter with regards from Dr. Kurtz. We had a
called Manufacture Breguet. long talk and I got my first idea about Glashütte from him.
Once again, he got resistance from his own salespeople, who “Everything looked poor here,” Delecate says. “The houses
complained that Delecate’s mechanical clunker was impossible were not painted. Everything was very poor.” The locals
to sell. Delecate’s disappointment was deep. “He was very showed a huge interest in his 350 Daimler sports car. “Oh, it
proud of the NATO Chronograph,” says Jörg. “He always was a sensation!” he says. Glashütters were accustomed only to
wore it and said it was such a good watch, a mechanical with the tiny, exhaust-emitting, East German Trabants.
these special pushers. It was not really appreciated at the time. On that trip, he got a souvenir of the Cold War and divided
But he was quite convinced about the NATO watch.” He stuck Germany that he has kept. “I remember there was a closed fac-
with it, expanding the collection. To this day, the Tutima NATO tory here. There was a big pile of trash. In it was a flag with the
Chronograph is standard equipment for the German Air Force. words ‘Seid bereit,’ ‘Be ready.’ This was a Communist political
The German military has two workshops in northern Germany flag. Somebody said, ‘We don’t need it anymore.’ And I took it.”
devoted strictly to repairing these NATO Chronographs.
Delecate’s NATO watch was ahead of its time. It anticipated
trends that would bloom in the next decade: mechanical watches JUST DAYS AFTER THE BORDER
in general, and chronographs and pilots’ watches in particular.
Looking back, says Calzadilla, who introduced Tutima to the OPENED, DELECATE DROVE TO
U.S. market in 1996, “You see how influential and how impor-
tant the NATO was.” Not only because it was mechanical, GLASHÜTTE. “I HAD TO GO,”
Calzadilla says, but because it was the first time Delecate linked
the relaunched Tutima to Glashütte and aviation.
HE SAYS. “I WAS MR. TUTIMA.”
In 1989, Tutima produced a brochure promoting the NATO
watch. It showed a photo of the Tutima Fliegerchronograph
1941, a watch Ernst Kurtz made for the German Luftwaffe. The only trace of Tutima was the UFAG building where
“Fifty years ago,” the text stated, “Germany’s first wrist Tutima watches were made. It was for sale for many years, but
chronograph was a Tutima. This Tutima Fliegerchronograph there were no buyers and eventually it was torn down.
was developed at the beginning of the 1940s in Glashütte, Ger- Delecate went to see if there was any chance to bring Tutima
many, and was issued as standard equipment to the then Luft- back to Glashütte. He met with executives of VEB Glashütter
waffe.” Says Jörg, “The picture of the Fliegerchronograph made Uhrenbetriebe (Glashütte Watchmaking Works), known as GUB,
a historical connection. And on that we got quite interesting the combine that the Communists established in Glashütte after
reactions. People said, ‘What a nice watch. I would buy it the war. The East German state dismantled most Glashütte
immediately if you made this.’ This was in the 1980s.” watch firms like A. Lange & Söhne, R. Mühle, Otto Estler and
A seed was planted. Kurtz’s UROFA-UFAG and merged them into GUB. “I met with
the management of that factory a few times,” Delecate says.
IV.
TO GLASHÜTTE Delecate in the
1990s
About the same time, Germany underwent the most stunning
political upheaval since World War II. The sudden fall of the
Berlin Wall in 1989 and German reunification in 1990 made it
possible for Delecate to do something he had dreamed of for
decades: visit Tutima’s birthplace. Within days of the East Ger-
man border’s opening, he drove from Ganderkesee to
Glashütte. The plan was for Kurtz to join him. Kurtz was
eager to meet an old friend from his Glashütte days, Peter
Schöne. For many years they had only been able to stay in
touch through letters because of the Iron Curtain separating
the two Germanys. Unfortunately, Kurtz got sick and could
not make the trip.
Twenty-five years after that first visit, sitting in the Tutima
workshops in Glashütte, Delecate talked about that trip. “I
came to see what was going to happen here. I had to go. I was
Mr. Tutima,” he said with a laugh. “I went first to Peter Schöne

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PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
Tutima
produced the
original Flieger-
chronograph (far
left) for the
German Air
Force in the
1940s.
Delecate’s
replica of
the Flieger-
chronograph in
the 1990s (left)
was an instant
hit.
“But it was too early and not so easy. I had my people in north DELECATE’S 1994 REPLICA OF THE
Germany. Here they had a company based on the communist
model with 2,000 employees.” TUTIMA FLIEGERCHRONOGRAPH
Delecate made several trips to Glashütte in 1990. One GUB
executive that he had good discussions with was Hans-Jürgen OF 1941 BECAME A SYMBOL OF THE
Mühle, who would himself re-establish the family firm, Mühle-
Glashütte, in 1994. Delecate remembers vividly the phone call he MECHANICAL WATCH REVIVAL.
got from Mühle informing him that the German company VDO
Adolf Schindling, owners of the Swiss watch brands IWC and
Jaeger-LeCoultre, would revive the A. Lange & Söhne brand in
Glashütte in cooperation with Walter Lange. The new company enthusiasts urged Delecate to remake the watch that UROFA-
would be directed by German-born Günter Blümlein, the highly UFAG was charged to produce for the German Luftwaffe.
respected head of Switzerland’s IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre Between 1941 and 1945, Kurtz’s company manufactured
brands. “I thought, ‘Oh my God, what should I do now?’ They around 30,000 of them. Delecate decided to produce an
had big plans. I had to rethink if I should come to Glashütte at authentic replica of that watch.
that time. And I didn’t come.” In December 1990, the new A. It wasn’t easy. The original UROFA 59 chrono caliber was
Lange & Söhne company was established in Glashütte. long gone. To recreate it, Delecate’s “1941” project team had to
But Delecate’s dream did not die. Says Jörg: “We always said modify a manual-wind Valjoux 7760. They eliminated the 12-
that Tutima belongs to Glashütte. That was clear. It has to come hour counter since the Flieger didn’t have one. The new move-
back.” ment was smaller than the original (13 lignes versus 15). But in
every other respect, the new Flieger Classic Chronograph that
V. Tutima unveiled in 1994 was the spitting image of the 1941 original.
The watch was an instant hit. It became a media darling. “At
FLIEGERCHRONOGRAPH that time, wealthy people started to take an interest in mechan-
ical watches again,” says Ute Delecate, Tutima’s marketing
In the meantime, Delecate took a step that unmistakably linked chief. “I remember an article in Germany’s biggest newspaper,
his Tutima with Kurtz’s: he relaunched the Tutima Die Welt (The World). The lead article was about the comeback
Fliegerchronograph of 1941. of mechanics in general, not only in watchmaking. The image
Tutima’s NATO Chronograph sparked interest in the origi- for this article was our watch.”
nal Tutima Fliegerchronograph from World War II. In the Says Delecate, “All the journalists came and it was very
1990s, with interest in mechanical watches growing, watch exciting. This was the beginning of the revival of mechanical

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PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
watches. When they talked about the comeback of the mechan-

ical, it was always our chronograph as an example.”
The Flieger was a commercial success. It became the face of
Tutima and the firm’s best-selling family. Delecate followed the
Flieger Classic with the Flieger Chronograph F2 (containing the
automatic Valjoux 7750 with three subdials); the Flieger
Chronograph F3 (with the automatic Lemania 5100 caliber);
and non-chronograph versions like the Flieger Automatic and
the Flieger GMT.
Looking back, however, Delecate says it could have and
should have done even better commercially. His one regret is
that he did not do more to promote it. “Everybody came with
vintage-styled pilots’ watches. We were overrun,” he says. “My
company was not that big. I didn’t have that much capital to
invest. We should have built up our identity in north Germany
in a bigger way.”
VI.
TAKING TUTIMA HOME
In the following years, the Delecate family continued to visit
Glashütte. They watched the town gradually regain its status as
Germany’s center of fine mechanical watchmaking. It was only
a matter of time before they would bring Tutima home. On a
visit in 2005, as a real estate agent drove them through town,
Delecate speaking at the inauguration of Tutima Glashütte in 2011
Manufacture Tutima Glashütte

Made in Glashütte (clockwise from

above): Tutima’s Saxon One
chronograph, M2, Grand Flieger
Classic Chrono and Patria watches
they passed a building by the train station with a big sign that
said, “I COULD BE YOURS.”
Delecate bought it. By 2008, a team of 20 was already at
work on the premises. On May 12, 2011, Delecate cut the rib-
bon to officially inaugurate Tutima Glashütte SA, the new man-
ufacture. Mr. Tutima had brought the brand back home. In a
speech, Delecate paid special tribute to Kurtz and said, “This
day has a special meaning for me. A day full of past, present and
future.”
Delecate marked the occasion by unveiling the Tutima
Glashütte Hommage Minute Repeater. It is not only the first full
minute repeater ever made in Glashütte, it is the first wrist minute
repeater in the history of German watchmaking. Its hand-wound
movement, Caliber 800, has more than 550 components and was
developed and produced in the new manufacture. Delecate said
he wanted the first watch Tutima produced upon its return to
stand as a tribute to Glashütte’s heritage as “the Mecca of fine
German watchmaking,” as he put it. A limited edition of just 25
pieces, 20 in rose gold and five in platinum, will be produced.
Since then, Delecate has shifted all Tutima watch production
to Glashütte and opened a second production site. A small tech-

PROFILE
Dieter Delecate
Tutima Hommage
Minute Repeater
DELECATE HAS SHIFTED ALL

TUTIMA WATCH PRODUCTION
TO GLASHÜTTE AND OPENED
ANOTHER PRODUCTION
Grand Flieger is the revised and modernized re-edition of the
SITE THERE. historical 1941 Fliegerchronograph, now in larger cases (43-
mm diameter) in chrono ($5,100 and $5,500) and non-chrono
versions ($2,500 and $2,900). There are two collections. The
nical staff remains in Ganderkesee. In Glashütte, Tutima has Grand Flieger Classic has vintage looks. The Grand Flieger Air-
redesigned and upgraded its entire line. Today there are four port has a contemporary look without the 1940s Arabic
new “Made in Glashütte” collections, all with movements numeral hour indicators. The watches are powered by Tutima
either made entirely or modified in the manufacture. Not sur- Calibers 320 (chronographs) and 330 (three-hand automatics).
prisingly, many are chronographs. Patria is a rose-gold dress watch with small seconds subdial
Saxon One is the flagship collection of sporty but elegant at 6 o’clock ($17,900) and, on two models, a dual-time indica-
watches, either chronographs ($6,100 and $6,500) or non- tor ($19,500). Inside is Tutima Glashütte’s in-house Caliber
chrono automatics ($3,400 and $3,800). The chronograph 617, the hand-wound movement that served as the base for the
watches are powered by Tutima Caliber 521, which has an ETA Hommage Minute Repeater.
7750 base modified with a Tutima mechanism for a central “Here is a new start from zero,” Delecate says of the return
chrono minutes hand. The Saxon One automatic is powered by to Glashütte. “The minute repeater was the first one, then the
Tutima Caliber 330. new collection. Now we are ready.”
The M2 is Tutima’s 21st-century version of the NATO Delicately, I ask Delecate if, after his long, eventful career,
Chronograph ($5,900 to $6,700). Since the Lemania 5100 is no having brought the brand home, he ever thinks about retire-
longer in production, Tutima uses its 521 caliber in the new line. ment. The question doesn’t compute. He stares at me quizzically,
All M2 watches have solid pearl-blasted titanium cases with 46- then asks, “Are you joking?”
mm diameters. Slightly larger (46.5-mm diameter) M2 Pioneer Calzadilla speaks up: “He can’t retire. We’re just getting
models have 14 luminous capsules on the rotating bezel. started.” 

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WT_0116_Rolex Daytona_04_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 13:34 Seite 78
The Daytona
International
Speedway has been
in operation since
1959.
TRACKING
THE DAYTONA
A look at the 53-year history of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
BY THOMAS GRONENTHAL
The Cosmograph
Reference 6239
debuted in 1963.
It was nicknamed the
“Daytona.”
F
“Chronograph.” Rolex made about 500 and off the racetrack in the 1930s, when
of these watches each year until 1961, he held the world land speed record.
when the reference was discontinued. Campbell wrote a thank-you letter to
The watch sold for about $200 in the early Rolex in 1931, telling the company
1960s. This model wasn’t very successful, he was very impressed by his Oyster’s
either: it and other early Rolex chrono- durability.
graphs often languished on dealers’ The newer route of the Daytona race-
shelves because other manufacturers had course, which formed an elongated oval
long since established themselves as with a slight bend in it, ran partly across
chronograph specialists. Nowadays these the beach and partly along the oceanfront
or most of Rolex’s history, chronographs so-called “Pre-Daytonas” are rare and roadway. It wasn’t until 1959 that the
took a back seat to three-handed models. desirable: $20,000 is merely the entry- race was run solely on asphalt: namely, at
The company did produce some chrono- level price for one of these hard-to-find the newly opened Daytona International
graphs, but equipped them with third- models with a silver or black dial and Speedway.
party calibers that ticked in conventional, stainless-steel case. Rolex first served as Daytona’s offi-
classic cases, not its well-known Oyster cial timekeeper in 1962, one year prior to
case. Rolex introduced its first Oyster- THE FIRST AUTOMOBILE races were the debut of the Cosmograph Reference
cased chronograph during WWII, but it organized on the beach at Daytona, Fla., 6239. Rolex nicknamed this model
was anything but a hit. in 1902. Many new speed records were “Daytona” the same year to emphasize
In 1955, Rolex launched its Reference set in the following years. Sir Malcolm the watch’s affiliation with the presti-
6234 chronograph. Neither “Cosmo- Campbell of Great Britain was among the gious auto race. This timepiece was con-
graph” nor “Daytona” appeared on the most successful racecar drivers on the ceived expressly for racecar drivers,
dial; the watch was simply labeled stretch: he wore Rolex watches both on which explains why the tachymeter scale

HISTORY
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
1965 Late ’60s
ANTIQUORUM
1970 1970 1971
1988 2000
1965
Reference 6240 had
screwed push-pieces
and a bezel with black
acrylic inlay.
Late ’60s
Among other distinguishing
The old
features, the so-called
Daytona racecourse
“Paul Newman” had a
ran partly along the
contrasting scale for the
sandy beach and partly
chronograph seconds.
along the oceanfront
road.
1970
In Reference 6262, Rolex
raised the balance’s
frequency to 21,600 vph.
1970
Rolex returned to a bezel
inlaid with acrylic for
Reference 6264.
1971
Reference 6265 is the last
series with a hand-wound
movement.
1988
The Daytona became a on the bezel is significantly larger than its price has increased nearly tenfold since
self-winding watch when counterparts on most other watches. then.
Rolex began equipping
Reference 6239 attracted a celebrity If you’re thinking about buying a Paul
it with Caliber 4030,
a modified Zenith El devotee in the late 1960s. Paul Newman Newman Daytona, be careful. It’s rela-
Primero. wasn’t just an actor: he was also an out- tively simple for a crook to convert a
standingly successful racecar driver. In his standard Daytona into a “Paul New-
2000 heyday, he even had his own racing stable. man”: experts believe that more counter-
Rolex replaced Caliber His Daytona watch accompanied him on feit Newman dials are in circulation than
4030 with the in-house
Caliber 4130, meaning that
his races. In the 1980s, collectors gave the genuine ones. And some seemingly com-
all the brand’s movements nickname “Paul Newman” to this style of plete watches aren’t entirely original, i.e.,
were now made by Rolex Daytona, which can be recognized chiefly they’ve been cobbled together from vari-
itself. by the contrastingly colored seconds scale ous individual components.
along the dial’s periphery.
Paul Newman Daytonas can change ALL CLASSIC, hand-wound Daytonas
hands at auctions for as much as contained the Valjoux Caliber 72 in one
$100,000. But there are obvious differ- of its variations. Rolex comprehensively
ences between them. The original Paul reworked this caliber, equipping it, for
Newman watch had a white dial with example, with the brand’s own shock-
black elapsed-time counters and large, absorption device. This caliber was pro-
easy-to-read numerals in art deco style. duced in large series, which makes coun-
The other dial variation, which has terfeiters’ lives easier: they can find it
small and simple numerals in the subdi- inside diverse no-name chronographs,
als, can be bought for prices ranging from which they can buy for a few hundred
$20,000 to $30,000. The increase in value dollars. (But there’s an advantage to a cal-
is immense: these watches sold at auc- iber that was produced in large series:
tions in the late 1980s for the equivalent spare parts for the movement are relatively
of $3,000 to $4,000. That means their easy to find.) The differences among the

several caliber variations are apparent

only under close scrutiny. Watches pur-
porting to be Daytona models should
therefore be purchased only from rep-
utable auction houses or dealers. You can
also send the watch to Rolex, where the
company’s experts can substantiate its
authenticity or unmask it as a fake.
Rolex switched to screw-in push but-
tons with the debut of Reference 6240 in
1965. These seal the watch’s case nearly
as hermetically as the Oyster models
without a stopwatch function. The bezel
of Reference 6240 was black with an
acrylic inlay. Reference 6262, which was
manufactured in one year only, 1970,
and is therefore extremely rare, marked
Rolex’s return to an engraved steel bezel
and to unthreaded push buttons. The
movement was also modified: Rolex
raised the frequency of the Valjoux cal-
iber from 18,000 to 21,600 vph.
This movement was used in Reference
6264 from 1970 to 1972. Unlike the
6262, Reference 6264 had a bezel with
an acrylic inlay and screw-in push but-
tons. The last references with hand-
wound movements were 6263 and 6265,
which were produced from 1971 to
1988. The first of these is especially valu-
able: Christie’s auctioned off one of these
watches in 2013 for nearly 1 million
Swiss francs, a record-breaking price.
In 1988, mechanical watches seemed
like quaint relics from a bygone era
because quartz technology had long since
Paul Newman at the 24
superseded them. That year, Rolex decided
Hours of Le Mans in 1979 to introduce a self-winding Daytona.
Rolex used Zenith’s El Primero move-
ment, which had been introduced in
1969. Rolex made major changes to the
A platinum version with brown El Primero, including slowing its frequency
ceramic bezel was launched to from 36,000 to 28,800 vph. This resulted
celebrate the Daytona’s 50th in a longer power reserve and longer serv-
birthday in 2013.

ice intervals. Rolex renamed the move- 44 jewels, a 72-hour power reserve, and
ment the 4030. Kif shock absorbers for its balance and
Demand for sporty chronographs escape wheel. Vertical coupling assures a
took off at this time. Waits of up to three smooth start for the elapsed-seconds
years were not unusual for would-be hand. The new movement, like the El
Daytona buyers. Rolex continued to Primero it replaced, has column-wheel
offer the models in all steel and all yellow switching.
gold, which were later joined by steel- The change in calibers is visible on the
and-gold and white- and rose-gold varia- dial, where the running seconds subdial
tions. With prices starting at about has been shifted from 9 o’clock to 6
$6,000, steel-and-gold models from the o’clock and the centers of the elapsed-
late 1980s and afterwards are now the minutes and running seconds subdials are
least costly Daytonas on the used-watch now positioned slightly north of the dial’s
market. All-steel models in good condi- equator.
tion are somewhat more expensive: their The 4130 has had Rolex’s in-house
Caliber 4130, equipped with an prices start at around $7,000. Here, too, blue Parachrom hairspring for the past
in-house Parachrom balance caution is in order. Accompanying papers decade. Prices for the watch are high –
spring. The movement has a
three-day power reserve.
and an original box increase the watch’s used models in steel can cost nearly as
value, but cannot guarantee its genuine- much as brand new ones ($12,000). The
ness because these accessories, too, are most recent addition to the Daytona lineup
often skillfully counterfeited. is a platinum version with a brown
ceramic bezel ($75,000), introduced in
IN 2000, Rolex launched the first Day- 2013 to commemorate the Daytona’s
tona with an in-house movement. Caliber 50th birthday. This longevity is what dis-
4130, still used in today’s Daytonas, has tinguishes a true classic. 
In 2012,
Rolex celebrated
50 years of timing
races at the Daytona
International
Speedway.

WT_0116_JLC_Geophysic_03_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 13:50 Seite 84
GETTING
GEOPHYSICAL
Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a new collection,
the Geophysic, to bridge the gap between its Master line and its
ultra-high-mech models.
BY NORMA BUCHANAN
F device. This changes the frequency of the jumps that the seconds
hand makes as it moves around the dial. In most mechanical
F
watches, the hand progresses in tiny, almost imperceptible incre-

ments of 1/6-seconds or 1/8-seconds, depending on whether the
balance beats at 21,600 vph or 28,800 vph, respectively. The
hand appears to be sweeping smoothly around the dial.
In a true-beat-seconds watch, additional wheels have been
or years, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most ballyhooed introductions added so that the seconds hand jumps forward just once per sec-
have been ultra-complicated pieces with six-digit prices: the ond. The motion is like that of a quartz-watch seconds hand; it
Reverso Rideau Répétition à Minutes, the Duomètre Sphéro- is often described as “ticking.” The advantage of such a hand is
tourbillon, the Hybris Mechanica 11, the Duomètre Sphéro- that it enables to-the-second reading of the time. Since the
tourbillon Moon, et al. advent of quartz watches in the 1970s, true-beat watches have
Now the company is making noise about a far less fancy been nearly nonexistent: after all, no one wants his luxury
watch, or rather, pair of watches: the founding members of a mechanical to be mistaken for a quartz watch. In the past several
new collection called Geophysic. They’re called the True Second years, though, true-beat-seconds watches have become a mini-
and the Universal Time, and they’re meant to fill the large gap trend among high-end mechanical brands. F.P. Journe, Arnold
between the high, high-horology watches of the Hybris & Son, Audemars Piguet, L. Leroy, Jaquet Droz and others have
Mechanica collection and JLC’s far simpler Master collection. introduced true-beat-seconds watches.
The purpose of the new pieces, says Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO The movements’ other distinguishing feature is their oddly
Daniel Riedo, is to appeal to connoisseurs who cannot afford shaped balance. It isn’t circular, as in most watches, but instead
the brand’s high-horology pieces but nonetheless want a watch consists of two curved segments joined by a single spoke. The
with unusual technical features. His hope is that young or point of the non-circular shape, says JLC, is to reduce air fric-
youngish watch enthusiasts, aged from about 25 to 40, will buy tion and hence improve precision. The company first used a bal-
a Geophysic and stick with the brand as their interest in watch ance with this shape in the Master Compressor Extreme Lab of
technology, and their incomes, grow. “[The purpose of the Geo- 2007 and has not used it since. The balance, called the Gyrolab,
physic collection] is to offer something a little more complex has been altered in one way from the original: it now has regu-
than the more common product from the Master line,” he says. lating screws, four of them, for fine adjustment of the rate.
The Geophysic movements have two distinctive features. The balance’s two curved segments were designed to resem-
One is a true-beat (also referred to as a “dead-beat”) seconds ble the conjoined backwards “J” and the “L” of the Jaeger-

CLOSE-UP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic
SPECS
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
GEOPHYSIC UNIVERSAL TIME
Manufacturer: Jaeger-LeCoultre,
Rue de la Golisse 8, CH-1347 Le Sentier,
Switzerland
Reference number: Q810 84 20 (steel),
Q810 25 20 (rose gold)
Functions: Hours, minutes, true seconds,
world time by means of fixed city ring
and rotating 24-hour ring
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house
Caliber 772, automatic, true-beat (i.e.,
Both Caliber 770 (above) and Caliber 772 have true-beat seconds hands
dead-beat) seconds, world time
and Gyrolab balances.
mechanism, Gyrolab balance, watch tested
according to JLC’s 1,000 Hours Control
testing procedure, gold rotor, 274
components, 40-hour power reserve
Case: Stainless steel or rose gold,
transparent back, water resistant to 50 m
Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with
folding clasp (steel model) or pin buckle
(rose-gold model)
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.6 mm, LeCoultre logo (which is shaped, intentionally, somewhat like
height = 11.84 mm an escapement anchor). According to Riedo, incorporating the
Variations and prices: Stainless steel logo into the design was a way to draw attention to JLC’s ability
($15,000) or rose gold ($25,000) to make its own escapements. The company is a soup-to-nuts
manufacture housed in a sprawling factory in Le Sentier in the
Vallée de Joux. It is the largest watch factory in the valley. (Bal-
The Geophysic ance springs are one of the few movement components JLC does
Universal Time not make entirely by itself: the wire is manufactured by A.
has a fixed Lange & Söhne, which, like JLC, is part of the Richemont
city ring and
rotating
Group. JLC shapes and assembles the springs in house.)
24-hour ring. The caliber is designated as 770 for the simple automatic
and 772 for the universal-time version. Both have rotors made
from single blocks of gold. The rotors bear the JLC logo, created
by means of cutouts in the gold. The movements are tested
according to the “1,000 Hours Control” procedure to which
the company subjects all its watches. Riedo says Calibers 770
and 772 will engender a new generation of JLC calibers that will
be used in future Geophysic models starting in 2017. (The com-
pany’s focus this year will be on special 85th-anniversary ver-
sions of the brand’s Reverso watch.)
The Gyrolab balance will make its way into other collec-
tions, including the Master collection (the true-seconds device
will not be used in Master watches, Riedo says).
The Geophysic collection gets its name from a watch the
company introduced in 1958 to mark what was called the
“International Geophysical Year,” which was meant to spur
cooperation between countries with respect to scientific
research and the exchange of scientific information. The watch
was intended for use by scientists and engineers. It had a
chronometer-certified movement and an antimagnetic case.
Last year, JLC introduced a limited-edition watch called the
Geophysic 1958, which paid tribute to the original model. The
The original
Geophysic
from 1958
Geophysic 1958 was a way of reintroducing the Geophysic

name to consumers and explaining to them what it stood for:
high precision and high quality. (The original Geophysic con-
tained the best movement that JLC was capable of making,
according to Riedo.) “We wanted to put the name in place again
after so many years, and to explain what the Geophysic was in
the last century,” Riedo says.
The Geophysic True Second bears a close resemblance to its The Geophysic
1958 forebear. Like it, the new watch has angular lugs and a True Second looks
simple dial with straight indexes. Unlike it, it has indexes much like its 1958
forbear (above
instead of numerals at the “12,” “3,” “6” and “9” and a date
left).
SPECS
window. And, of course, the new watch has a seconds hand that
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
jumps from second to second rather than sweeping smoothly.
GEOPHYSIC TRUE SECOND
The True Second is 39.6 mm in diameter and 11.7 mm thick. It
comes in a steel or rose-gold case. The prices are $9,050 and Manufacturer: Jaeger-LeCoultre,
$17,500, respectively. Rue de la Golisse 8, CH-1347 Le Sentier,
The Universal Time model, which also has a true-beat sec- Switzerland
onds hand, bears a map of the world and a fixed ring inscribed Reference number: Q801 84 20 (steel),
Q801 25 20 (rose gold)
Functions: Hours, minutes, true seconds,
date
Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre in-house
Caliber 770, automatic, true-beat (i.e.,
dead-beat) seconds, Gyrolab balance,
watch tested according to JLC’s 1,000
Hours Control testing procedure, gold
rotor, 275 components, 40-hour power
reserve
Case: Stainless steel or rose gold,
transparent back, water resistant to 50 m
Strap and clasp: Alligator strap with
folding clasp (steel model) or pin buckle
(rose-gold model)
Dimensions: Diameter = 39.6 mm,
height = 11.7 mm
Variations and prices: Stainless steel
($9,050) or rose gold ($17,500)
with city names. To set the home time, you use the crown to
rotate the 24-hour ring so the correct hour is next to the city. To
set the local time, you use the crown to move the hour hand
backward or forward. The minutes and seconds continue to run
The Gyrolab balance was designed to reduce air while you set the hour. The watch is 41.6 mm in diameter and
11.8 mm thick. Like the True Second, it comes in steel or rose

friction and thus improve precision.
gold, at $15,000 or $25,000, respectively.

WT_0116_Glashuette_04_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:22 Seite 88
FROM
RAW METAL
TO MOVEMENT
A look at start-from-scratch
movement manufacturing
at Glashütte Original
BY JENS KOCH
PHOTOS BY MARCUS KRÜGER

MOVEMENT MAKING
Glashütte Original
I
magine if you will: you have potatoes,
carrots and salt, and the task of creating a
four-course meal. Impossible, you say?
But that is in effect what Glashütte Orig-
inal, based in Glashütte, Germany, does.
Glashütte Original
Raw material enters the factory in the makes its own
form of long metal rods and strips that cutting and
are transformed into precise, embellished milling tools.
and often complicated movements com-
posed of perfectly interacting plates,
levers, springs, gears and screws. Except
for the jewels and bearings, virtually
everything is produced in house. Many
hours and processes are needed before
the finely decorated movement – includ-
ing maybe even a perpetual calendar or
tourbillon – is complete.
The ingredients arrive in wooden
boxes in the form of long metal rods and
strips, with the thinner strips on rolls.
CNC machines cut the round parts, the
wheels, barrels and screws, from the two-
to-three-meter-long steel or brass rods.
The metal turns on a lathe and a cutting
tool removes material until a disk with Gears and screws
the desired thickness is obtained. are fabricated from
these metal rods.
These machines are able to cut more
complex shapes like barrels or screws, or
even threads or gear teeth. There are spe-
cial machines to cut teeth with unusual
profiles. The smallest components made
here are screws with a diameter measur-
ing less than 0.5 mm. The technicians
need tweezers and magnifying lenses to
place the tiny gears in the machines.
The spinning axles in a watch, known
as arbors, get special treatment and hand-
ling so they rotate smoothly in their jew- Metal strips are the
eled bearings, and with as little friction as raw material for
possible. A special machine rolls the part, bridges and levers.

THE WIRE-EROSION
TECHNIQUE CAN BE
COMPARED TO CUTTING
A CAKE WITH A THREAD.
which compresses it between two spin-

ning metal disks and brings it to the cor-
rect dimensions.
Fabricating the non-round movement
parts begins with long, thin strips made
of copper or steel. Levers and springs are
given their precise shape by computerized
wire-erosion (also called “spark-ero-
sion”) machines. A taut wire is placed
against the workpiece and receives elec-
trical impulses. This causes sparks to dis-
charge and material from the workpiece
is removed. It is rather like cutting a cake
with a thread. This may not seem like a
high-precision technique but it is: the
pieces are cut to within 0.005 mm of the
specified measurement. Stacking the
strips makes it possible to cut several at
one time.
Other parts, such as plates and
bridges, are first shaped using a cookie-
cutter-like process. Muscle strength alone
Turning machines is not enough to cut square or round
are used to make blanks from the metal strips; mechanical
screws and other power is required. The stamped blanks
components from are placed in computerized milling
metal rods.
machines for precise placement of drill
holes and recesses and final contouring of
the outer edges.
A good cook sharpens his own
knives. So does Glashütte Original. The
tungsten carbide tools used on the cutting
and milling machines are re-sharpened in
the tool-making department. The com-
pany makes some of its tools entirely in
house.
The stamped-out and milled bridges
Wire-erosion are placed in a machine that blasts them
machines create with brass particles to remove burrs.
levers and springs. Then, using a graver, a technician

MOVEMENT MAKING
Glashütte Original
Beveled edges are

given a high polish
with a rotating
metal pin.
removes any remaining burrs and other

surface irregularities from the insides of
the drilled holes. This step requires a
great deal of manual dexterity and
finesse.
The most important thing in success-
ful cooking is getting the seasoning right.
The specialists at Glashütte Original
can’t taste their creations, of course, but
they can verify that they’ve achieved their
goals by checking the parts in the meas-
uring room with a profile projector. A Lacquer protects
the gold-enhanced
technician enlarges the piece and com-
engraving prior to
pares it with an image. A video measur- rhodium plating.
ing device checks the parts automatically.
For more complex components, it can
check drill holes, radii and diameters at
more than 100 different points.
COMPONENTS NEED not only work

perfectly, they must also look good. The
next step is the complex, time-consuming
and strictly manual art of decoration.
An indispensable visual highlight of
high-end watches are chamfered edges.
They are beveled at a 45-degree angle.
Lettering is cut and an engraver decorates
the balance bridge with a hand graver.
Now it’s time to really get cooking. In
fact, the company’s galvanics depart-
ment, with its liquid-filled stainless-steel
containers, looks a lot like a commercial
kitchen. This is where the engraving on
the movement’s three-quarters plate and
bridges is gilded.
After the components have been
engraved, they are nickel coated and then
gold plated. A protective lacquer is care-
fully applied to the engravings. Once the
The perlage finish
lacquer hardens, the workpiece is deco- is made of
rated with a line finish. The company overlapping circles.

Mainplates and bridges receive a metal coating in a galvanic bath.
The gold chatons are set and screwed in place.
uses a slightly angled grinding wheel that is

moved over a bridge in three or four wide
bands. Experienced specialists adjust the
height of the wheel after each pass to
ensure an even pattern. This process
removes any excess lacquer (for some com-
ponents, the excess lacquer is removed by
hand). Then the piece is rhodium-plated
in a galvanic process to give it its final, sil-
very-white color. Only the areas covered
in protective lacquer remain gold in color.
Then the protective lacquer is washed
DECORATION IS DONE BY away in an ultrasonic cleaner so the gold-
enhanced engravings shine on the light
HAND. SOME TECHNIQUES silver, rhodium-plated surface.
Another important decorative finish
REQUIRE HOURS OF WORK is perlage. Here a specialist rotates the
plate, which is affixed to a turntable-like
ON A SINGLE COMPONENT. disk, while creating one circle after

MOVEMENT MAKING
Glashütte Original
More than 30 watchmakers assemble movements.
another with a spinning, diamond-dust

stylus. Every new circle overlaps the pre-
vious circle. Because the diameter of the
stylus determines the pressure needed on
the workpiece, creating this decorative
finish requires years of training and a del-
icate touch.
Other components, like the swan’s-
neck regulator and screw heads, are given
a matte finish. A tin file is used to finish
the regulator. Because the file is relatively
soft, it soon becomes abraded and must
be re-sharpened regularly to ensure that
an even surface pattern is obtained.
It may take half a day until the finish is
perfect.
And what about something flambé?
Actually, Glashütte Original does not The movement, equipped with dial and hands, is placed in its case.

blue its screws over an open flame but

with a hot soldering iron. This way, sev-
SIMPLE MOVEMENTS REQUIRE EIGHT TO
eral screws can be blued at one time. The 10 HOURS TO ASSEMBLE; COMPLICATED
screws go through several color changes,
so it’s essential to stop the process at the ONES TAKE UP TO 40 HOURS.
precise moment the desired color is
reached.
Assembly begins after all the compo-
nents have their decorative finishes. More movements, like those with a perpetual Laminar flow cabinets are used for this
than 30 watchmakers sit in a large calendar, are assembled by a single step. These are semi-sealed workstations
“clean” room: one where special meas- watchmaker in a complications atelier. that reduce dust to an even greater
ures including air filtration are used to This can take up to 40 hours. The watch- degree. The dial (produced by the com-
remove ambient dust. Two watchmakers makers must adjust every part correctly pany’s own dial factory in Pforzheim,
are tasked with putting together a single and adjust the movements to achieve the Germany) and the hands are installed
movement. Eight to 10 hours are needed desired rate results. and the movement is cased up. After a
for simple movements that are composed Now the movements are ready for series of tests, the watch is ready to be
of around 200 parts. More complicated casing – the final “plating,” so to speak. “served.” 
A watchmaker examines a finished movement.

WT_0116_Three Chronographs_05_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:31 Seite 96
COUNTER
CHECK
How three high-end, classic chronographs stack up against each other
BY GISBERT L. BRUNNER

CLOSE-UP
Three Classic Chronographs
10 IMPORTANT CHRONOGRAPH PARTS

ECCENTRIC
CLUTCH WHEEL
CLUTCH COLUMN WHEEL
RESET LEVER
MAIN OPERATING LEVER
SECONDS/DRIVE WHEEL
MINUTES-COUNTER WHEEL
BRAKE LEVER
CHRONO CENTER WHEEL

This image of the classically designed Lemania Caliber 2310
shows the essential parts of a chronograph.
HOW THE COLUMN WHEEL WORKS
Initial position before starting: the reset Pressing the pusher turns the column Stopping the chrono turns the column wheel
lever is seen at left, with the partially wheel. The clutch lever falls between two again and the clutch lever is lifted out. The
hidden clutch wheel lying beneath. columns and the reset lever is lifted out. reset lever remains in position.

time spans are not lost, the brake lever simultaneously returns
T
to its place at the chrono center wheel. Pressing the pusher but-
ton resets the chronograph via the reset levers, which turn the
reset cams from any position so that the hands return to the ver-
tical position.
The Vacheron Constantin is a monopusher: pressing the
chronograph button, which is integrated into the crown, stops,
starts and resets the chronograph in an immutable sequence.
The Patek and Lange watches both have two pushers, enabling
you to restart the chronograph without resetting it. This lets you
measure cumulative elapsed time without having to add up the
separate segments of time. The Datograph Up/Down is the only
one of the three with a flyback function, in which the chrono-
graph can be restarted while it is running; the seconds hand
he chronograph is the most beloved of complications, not only “flies back” to zero and immediately starts timing another
because of its usefulness but because of the high-tech, stylish interval.
look imparted by chronograph subdials and pushers. Here, we
compare and contrast three deluxe, in-house chronograph VACHERON’S CALIBER 3300 is the newest of the three move-
movements: Vacheron Constantin’s Caliber 3300, in the brand’s ments. It was introduced last year and is part of the company’s
Harmony chronograph; Patek Philippe’s Caliber CH 29-535 PS, Harmony watch collection, which Vacheron launched to mark
in Reference 5170G; and A. Lange & Söhne’s L951.6, in the the company’s 260th anniversary. The movement embodies
Datograph Up/Down. All the watches are in the same price cat- both tradition and modernity.
egory (they’re $69,000, $81,100 and $72,500, respectively). All Traditional aspects include the monopusher design, the col-
the movements have the classic chronograph elements: a column umn wheel and horizontal clutch. The clutch has innovative fea-
wheel and horizontal coupling. tures such as the transfer of power from the seconds wheel to
These movements are based on the Lépine design: the run- the chrono center wheel. Instead of one clutch wheel there are
ning seconds subdial is in line with the crown and is in two, placed atop one another and held via friction. The teeth of
the 9 o’clock position. On the movement side the extended sec- the upper, gold-colored clutch wheel are in constant engage-
onds wheel arbor bears the drive wheel, which powers the ment with those of the seconds wheel. When the chronograph is
chronograph. started, the clutch moves toward the center. Then the fine teeth
An odd number of gears are needed to ensure that the central of the lower silver-colored clutch wheel (with spokes shaped like
chronograph hand turns in the same direction – a drive wheel, the four arms of a Maltese cross) mesh with the teeth of the
clutch wheel and chronograph center wheel. The clutch wheel is chrono center wheel (there are 240 of them). This clever design
in constant engagement with the drive wheel. If the chrono- minimizes the initial jump of the chronograph hand and reduces
graph is activated, the clutch wheel must also engage with the mechanical wear.
chronograph center wheel. At this point the column wheel (Continued on page 102)
comes into play. When you press the pusher to start the chrono-
graph, the column wheel is advanced and the free end of the
clutch falls between two columns. This small shift to the right
creates a connection between the clutch and chrono center ALL THREE CHRONOGRAPHS
wheels. Watchmakers can use eccentric screws to adjust the
depth of engagement of the triangular teeth. The extremely fine HAVE THE CLASSIC
profile of the chrono center wheel teeth reduces jumping of the
chronograph hand at the start of action. CHRONOGRAPH FEATURES:
When you press the pusher to stop the chronograph, the col-
umn wheel advances by one position. A column then lifts the HORIZONTAL COUPLING AND
free end of the clutch. This interrupts the connection between
the drive wheel and chrono center wheel. So that the recorded
A COLUMN WHEEL.

CLOSE-UP
Instead of only one

clutch wheel, two
wheels are super-
imposed to minimize
both friction and the
initial jump of the
chronograph hand.
The Vacheron
Constantin
movement and watch
offer classic looks
with modern details.
The column wheel

(bottom center) has
the shape of
Vacheron’s symbol,
the Maltese cross.

Vacheron Constantin Patek Philippe A. Lange & Söhne

Harmony Chronograph Ref. 5170G Datograph Up/Down
Caliber 3300 CH 29-535 PS L951.6
Diameter 32.8 mm 29.6 mm 30.6 mm
Height 6.7 mm 5.35 mm 7.9 mm
No. of components 252 269 451
No. of jewels 35 33 46
Balance frequency 21,600 vph 28,800 vph 18,000 vph
Balance type Free-sprung Glucydur balance Free-sprung Glucydur balance Free-sprung Glucydur balance
Fine regulation Balance screws Balance weights Balance weights
Patek Philippe Seal – -3 to +2 -3 to +3 sec./day in six positions, plus

Rate adjustment Geneva Seal – one min./week sec./day temperature and isochronism
Balance bridge Hand-engraved Geneva stripes Hand-engraved
Hairspring Flat Overcoil Overcoil
Hack mechanism No Yes Yes
No. of barrels 1 1 1
Power reserve 65 hours 65 hours 60 hours
Power-reserve display Yes No Yes
Date display No No Large date
No. of pushers 1 2 2
Flyback function No No Yes
Totalizers 45-minute, no hours 30-minute, no hours 30-minute, no hours
Advancement of counter hands Smooth Jumping Jumping
Horizontal wheel clutch with two Horizontal wheel clutch with special
superimposed, friction-locked clutch gear teeth on drive, clutch and
Clutch type wheels chrono center wheels Horizontal wheel clutch
Traditional, on bridge concentric to Traditional, on bridge concentric to
Clutch bearing Modern, via screw on bridge seconds wheel seconds wheel
Depth adjustment – clutch/chrono
center wheel Eccentric screw Eccentric column wheel cap Eccentric screw
Elapsed time addition No Yes Yes
Reset lever Two-piece Two-piece Single-piece
Reset lever bearing Screws Jewel Eccentric screw
1/5-seconds, does not reflect 1/5-seconds, does not reflect
Seconds track on dial frequency frequency 1/5-seconds, matches frequency
Year introduced 2015 2013 (2010 in yellow gold) 2012 (1999 with base Caliber L951.1)
Hallmark Geneva Seal Patek Philippe Seal A. Lange & Söhne quality standards
Limited edition 260 pieces Not limited Not limited
Case Rose gold, cushion-shaped, 42 x 52 mm White gold, round, 39 mm Rose gold, round, 41 mm
Sapphire crystal back Yes Yes Yes
Price $69,000 $81,100 $72,500

CLOSE-UP
The shape of the teeth

minimizes choppy
movement of the
chrono seconds hand
and reduces friction.
The engagement
depth of the clutch
wheel into the chrono
center wheel can be
adjusted using the
column wheel cover.
The Patek Caliber

CH 29-535 PS has a
classic look and
contains six patented
innovations.

PATEK PHILIPPE’S CALIBER

CH 29-535 PS IS THE SMALLEST
AND THINNEST OF THE THREE
CHRONOGRAPH CALIBERS.
(Continued from page 99)

The Vacheron clutch bearing is relatively simple compared
to that of the Patek and Lange movements. It is similar to clutch
bearings in standard movements such as the Valjoux VZ, Lema-
nia 2310 or Minerva 13.20, in that it is directly in the bridge of
the chronograph mechanism. An eccentric screw controls the
depth of engagement of the free end of the clutch between the
column-wheel columns. We asked Vacheron why this move-
ment does not support the clutch on its own bridge concentric
to the seconds wheel. (That is a traditional and, to our eye, more
attractive configuration. Vacheron uses it in its ultra-thin, auto-
matic Caliber 3500, which was also introduced last year.) The
company responded: “The 3300 uses a friction system, which
eliminates the need for fine adjustment of the depth of engage-
ment of the triangular teeth on the clutch and chrono center
wheels. There is no technical or aesthetic reason to add unnec-
essary parts. The Caliber 3500 and Caliber 3300 are two very
different designs with different technical approaches.”
The friction principle also drives the 45-minute counter,
whose hand moves smoothly around the subdial rather than in
1-minute jumps, as in the Patek and Lange watches. Other spe-
cial features of this newcomer include two brake levers for the
chrono center wheel and minutes counter wheel as well as two
separate reset levers for these indications. The movement’s all-
or-nothing safety system is also unusual. In theory, traditional
designs can, if the chrono pusher is not pressed hard enough,
allow the gears and levers to be put in motion without starting
the chronograph.
The balance, which has a variable moment of inertia, beats
at 21,600 vph. This frequency does not correspond to the 1/5-
second divisions of the seconds track on the dial. Fifths-of-a-sec-
ond increments are appropriate only with a frequency of 18,000
The counters on the vph. The balance spring is flat. The balance bridge is engraved
Patek Philippe are with an elaborate engraving. This engraving will be used only
centered slightly on the limited-edition (260 pieces) version of the watch.
below the middle of
the dial to allow
Thanks to the pulsometer track on the dial, you only need to
more space for the count 30 pulse beats after starting the chronograph to read the
day and month disks number of beats per minute. The case, like all cases in the Har-
in the perpetual- mony collection, measures 42 mm by 52 mm. Apart from its
calendar version of size and the sapphire crystal in the caseback, it resembles wrist-
this movement.
watch chronographs from the late 1920s.

CLOSE-UP
THE L951.6 WAS DESIGNED USING AT THE 1999 BASEL Fair, A. Lange & Söhne presented the
hand-wound movement L951.1 – the predecessor to the Caliber
THE FAMILIAR A. LANGE & L951.6 shown here. The watch was called the Datograph. Its
most prominent features were the large date display and the
SÖHNE ARCHITECTURE. THE position of the two subdials, whose centers sat just below the
dial’s equator. The movement was – and is, up to the current
BALANCE AND BALANCE SPRING generation – designed with the familiar Lange architecture. This
includes a three-quarter plate beneath the chronograph mecha-
WERE MADE IN HOUSE. nism, German-silver bridges, screwed gold chatons, hand-
engraved balance bridges, and an elegant swan’s-neck regulator.
Careful examination shows the typical arrangement of the
clutch set above the seconds wheel. The clutch and chrono cen-
ter wheels have screwed gold chaton bearings. One unusual fea-
PATEK PHILLIPPE HOLDS SIX PATENTS for its Caliber CH ture: the levers extending from the chrono pushers into the
29-535 PS. With a diameter of 29.6 mm and a thickness of 5.35 mechanism for starting, stopping, and resetting the chrono-
mm, it is the smallest and thinnest of our trio of chronograph graph have bearings both above and below their pivoting
movements. As in the other two, a column-wheel mechanism points. The reset lever, with its two contact surfaces, is a single
and horizontal clutch enable us to see the chronograph func- piece. The design of the jumping minutes counter is also unu-
tions. Clutch wheels with special rolling tooth profiles guaran- sual. Accurate activation is guaranteed by a stepped pinion and
tee that the chrono hand moves with virtually no jerking and an operating lever (again, double-bearing) with a smooth ruby
requires relatively little energy. They also minimize the starting sliding surface. The jumping of the minutes counter can be
jump of the chrono hand. adjusted precisely. The balance frequency of 18,000 vph permits
In this movement, the clutch bearing is concentric to the sec- timing to the 1/5-second.
onds wheel. Watchmakers can adjust the depth of engagement of The current generation of this movement is Caliber L951.6,
the clutch using the slightly offset rotating column wheel cover. introduced in 2012 in the Datograph Up/Down. (The rose-gold
A brake lever that is operated by an arm of the clutch lever, version was launched last year.) It is comprised of 451 compo-
rather than by the column wheel directly, ensures that the nents rather than the 390 of Caliber L951.1, and measures 30.6
chronograph hand and minutes counter stop precisely when the mm instead of 30 mm. A larger barrel increased the power
chrono pusher is pressed. Because the chronograph hand is sub- reserve from 36 to 60 hours. There is a power-reserve indicator
ject to extreme loads, the cam for the minutes counter’s instan- at 6 o’clock, the well-known “Auf/Ab,” or “Up/Down” display
taneous jumping mechanism has a 60-degree recess. During associated with watches made in Glashütte, Germany, where the
reset the tip of the minutes-counter lever dips into this recess, brand is based.
which eliminates any jerking. The balance and balance spring come from Lange’s pro-
The in-house Gyromax balance oscillates at 28,800 vph. In duction facilities and the rate is adjusted using six eccentric
theory this permits accurate timing to the 1/8-second. However, screws on the balance wheel. The frequency of 18,000 vph has
the company instead chose to graduate the seconds track in con- remained unchanged from the L951.1. To preserve the tradi-
ventional and, in this instance, incorrect 1/5-second increments. tional look there is a swan’s-neck regulator. Lange watchmak-
The relatively small movement means the diameter of the ers use it to adjust beat error, not the rate – that is, the time dif-
round white-gold case for the Reference 5170G measures only ference between the back and forth movement of the balance
39 mm. The positioning of the running seconds subdial and the wheel.
30-minute counter slightly below the dial’s center point is for The dial of the 41mm Datograph Up/Down bears a
good reason. This allows Patek Philippe to use a large disk for tachymeter scale. In this watch, the division of this seconds track
the digital display of the day and month in the movement’s per- is correct: the 1/5-second increments correspond to the watch’s
petual-calendar version, Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q. frequency. 

The clutch is placed

above the gears. The
clutch wheel and
chrono center wheel
are set in gold
chatons.
The Datograph
Up/Down, launched
in 2013, has been
available since last
year in rose gold with
a black dial.
German-silver bridges,
screwed gold chatons and a
hand-engraved balance
cock are all traditional A.
Lange & Söhne features.
WT_0116_Thilo_Muhle_02_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:37 Seite 106
Made in
Glashütte Thilo Mühle is a rarity among Glashütte watch
executives: a native Glashütter. We asked him
about his town’s turbulent history as seen from
his front-row seat.
BY NORMA BUCHANAN
T
hilo Mühle will never forget that Novem- nism his whole life. As a boy, he sifted Mühle is a native Glashütter, unusual
ber in 1989. Mühle was in his home in through discarded magazines and papers among Glashütte watch executives.
Glashütte, in the East German state of at the local refuse facility, searching for Under Communism, the once-venerable
Saxony, when he learned of a miracle: the forbidden news and photos from the Glashütte watch industry was dismantled
Berlin Wall had been torn down. He West. He tuned into distant radio stations and its brand names all but forgotten.
drove his rickety Trabant the 150 miles to in West Germany, straining to hear words After German reunification, West Ger-
Berlin to see the miracle firsthand. When and music broadcast by a world he knew mans came to Glashütte to establish, or
he got there, he crossed the newly opened he might never see. re-establish, watch companies. Mühle-
border into West Germany, passing the His friends did the same. East Ger- Glashütte, alone among the post-Com-
grim checkpoints and now-obsolete bar- man young people, he recalls, looked for- munist Glashütte watch manufacturers,
ricades. He stopped, stepped out of the ward to getting old so they could move to was founded by a Glashütter: Hans-
car, walked a few steps and took a deep the West. At age 65, East Germans were Jürgen Mühle, Mühle’s father. We asked
breath. “I’m free,” he said. permitted to leave the country because the younger Mühle, on a recent visit to
Mühle is the CEO of Mühle- they were no longer useful as workers New York, to tell us his company’s story.
Glashütte, the small, family-owned and the East German government did not
watch company whose roots in Glashütte want to support them in their old age. IT BEGINS WITH the company started
go back to 1869. Born in 1968, a genera- “Young people calculated in their heads by his great, great grandfather, Robert
tion after Germany was cleaved into two how many years it would be before they Mühle, who learned watchmaking at the
parts, Mühle had lived under Commu- could go to the West,” Mühle says. well-known Glashütte watch manufac-

INTERVIEW
Mühle-Glashütte’s Thilo Mühle
turer Moritz Grossmann. Grossmann

founded one of Glashütte’s first watch
companies and established the highly
respected German School of Watchmak-
ing, in the center of Glashütte. R. Mühle
and Sohn, as Mühle’s company was
called, made precision measuring instru-
ments for Glashütte watch companies
and for the watchmaking school.
After World War I, the company
branched out into making speedometers
and tachymeters for the automobile
industry. “The first BMW motorbike has
a speedometer from us,” Mühle says. “If
you go to Audi headquarters in Ingol-
stadt, you can see an old Horch car with
a speedometer that says ‘R. Mühle and The S.A.R.
Son.’” (Horch was one of the four brands Rescue-Timer,
that merged to form Audi. The four rings one of the brand’s
in the Audi logo are symbols of these signature models
brands.)
During World War II, the company,
now run by Thilo Mühle’s grandfather,
Hans Mühle, made speedometers for
German military vehicles. When the war
ended, it met the same fate as did other
firms that had helped in the German war
effort (including other Glashütte watch
manufacturers): the Russians confiscated
the machinery and shuttered the factory.
And so, at the end of 1945, Hans
Mühle started over. He set up a new com-
pany catering to the exigencies of the less to tight government supervision and the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB),
war-ravaged population with basic staple regulation. composed of the remnants of the pre-war
items. Five or six years later, the company In 1972, the Communist government Glashütte watch industry. The combine
returned to the Mühle family’s pre-war confiscated it. Hans Mühle had died in employed some 2,000 people, including
specialty: high-precision measuring 1970 and Thilo Mühle’s father, Hans- electricians, construction workers, and
instruments. The company was named Jürgen, had taken over. The company those responsible for such things as the
Ingenieur Hans Mühle (Hans Mühle was wrested from his hands. “One day in-house kindergarten. (Glashütte itself
Engineering). my father was a capitalist and the next he has just 7,000 people.) “Everything was
After the war, of course, Germany was operations manager in his own com- in one company. It wasn’t like today, with
was split into the Communist East and pany,” Mühle says. outside suppliers,” Mühle says. (If you
capitalist West. Even though Ingenieur In the early ’80s, the other shoe visited Glashütte before 2003, you no
Hans Mühle was in the East, it remained dropped: the firm was folded into a large doubt saw the GUB building, a drab,
a private company, one subject nonethe- Glashütte watchmaking collective called rust-colored hulk. Glashütte Original,
owned by the Swatch Group, replaced it
that year with a light-filled, modern fac-
tory/headquarters building.)
‘ONE DAY MY FATHER WAS A His father was put in charge of selling
ships’ chronometers to Iron Curtain
CAPITALIST AND THE NEXT HE countries. The GUB also made quartz
and mechanical watches. Its best-known
WAS OPERATIONS MANAGER IN movement was the Spezimatic, an auto-
matic, also known as Caliber 74, that
HIS OWN COMPANY.’ was launched in the mid-1960s (the date

version was designated as Caliber 75). In Other Glashütte watch companies Group). He was a celebrity of sorts in the
time, Hans-Jürgen Mühle became one of were also coming to life. That year, a watch industry, famous for turning JLC
five general managers at the GUB. West German named Heinz Pfeifer and IWC around, resurrecting Lange,
founded Glashütte Original. Four years and, in the process, giving a major boost
WHEN THE WALL came down, Hans- earlier, the automotive company VDO to the inchoate mechanical-watch
Jürgen Mühle was free to become a cap- had re-started a company under the name revival. (Blümlein died in 2001.)
italist once again. He wasted little time. A. Lange & Söhne and the West German “He said to my father, ‘Hey, Mühle, if
Right after reunification, the Treuhand, Roland Schwertner had founded Nomos. you produce marine chronometers,
the agency charged with privatizing East There were now four Glashütte timepiece which are of such high accuracy, you
German companies, sold the GUB to the companies and five brands (Glashütte should [also] produce watches.’ My fa-
French movement maker France Original has a sister brand, Union). ther started with one model and it sold
Ébauches. The new owner shut down Mühle-Glashütte continued to make out. He used the money to develop the
the ships’-chronometer division and marine chronometers while its neighbors next one.” Blümlein, as usual, had been
Hans-Jürgen Mühle, unhappy with his focused on luxury mechanical wrist- right: “People were ringing the doorbell
prospects at the company, resigned. “He watches. Then, one day in Glashütte, and saying, ‘I hear that you produce
knew the customers and the products. Mühle’s father had a fateful encounter: watches. Will you show me them?’”
He went to his old accounts and said, with well-known watch-industry execu- Mühle says. The year was 1996. Hans-
‘What should I do so that you’ll buy tive Günter Blümlein. Blümlein was CEO Jürgen Mühle found a distributor for
chronometers from me again?’” Mühle of the Glashütte-based A. Lange & Söhne western Germany (Germany was and is
recalls. In 1994, he founded Mühle- and of its parent company Les Manufac- the company’s largest market) and the
Glashütte, formally known as Nautische tures Horlogères (part of VDO), which business took off. Wristwatches soon
Instrumente Mühle Glashütte SA, spe- also owned Jaeger-LeCoultre and IWC came to eclipse marine chronometers in
cializing in ships’ chronometers. (all are now part of the Richemont the company’s product portfolio.
The Teutonia II
Chronograph,
now available
with a navy-blue
dial
A limited-edition
Robert Mühle
watch, powered
by Caliber
RMK 01
INTERVIEW
Mühle-Glashütte’s Thilo Mühle
IN THE MEANTIME, young Mühle was

enjoying his first taste of capitalism. He
had been trained as a toolmaker and
worked in the GUB for one and a half
years. As soon as the wall came down,
one of his friends started a company sell-
ing watch straps and batteries. He hired
Mühle as a salesman, a job that he found
interesting and educational.
He joined Mühle-Glashütte in 2000
because his father needed help running
his growing business. In 2007, he took
over as CEO.
The business was humming, but
Mühle’s factory is near Glashütte’s southern entrance.
calamity loomed. That year, the company
lost a legal battle with Nomos, which
claimed Mühle-Glashütte was not provid-
ing sufficient added value to its watches to house. He introduced two movements pany launched its first manufacture
entitle it to use the name “Glashütte” in with Mühle-Glashütte designations. One movements, with all plate manufacturing
marketing them. The law requires that 50 was the MU 9408, a version of the ETA and movement decoration done in house.
percent of the value of the movement be of 7750 that was more heavily modified than The movements are designated RMK 01
Glashütte origin, and that the movement earlier versions had been, incorporating, and RMK 02 (the former has an Auf/Ab
and watch itself be assembled there. Mühle among other changes, a newly designed power-reserve indicator; the latter
disputes the judgment against the com- three-quarters plate. The
pany, pointing out that assigning mone- other movement was the
tary value to particular design and manu- MU 9411, a manual-wind ‘WE CHANGED THE
facturing operations is an imprecise task. movement that was the first
The company was nonetheless ordered to Mühle-Glashütte caliber de- COLLECTION SO THAT
pay 2,500 euros for each watch made signed completely in house.
between 2002 and 2007 that was in viola- He also terminated his PEOPLE HAVE A CLEAR
tion of the law, for a total of more than 50 contracts with all his dis-
million euros. The company couldn’t, and tributors, both overseas and VIEW OF WHAT MÜHLE IS.’
entered bankruptcy. in Germany, and reduced
It remained there for five months. “I the brand’s number of mod-
learned a lot in that time,” Mühle says. “It els by half. “We changed the collection so doesn’t). They were cased in three lim-
was clear I must change everything.” He that people have a clear view of what ited-edition models named after the
embarked on the road to greater vertical- Mühle is,” he says. founder of the original Mühle company,
ization, performing more movement-com- Mühle is continuing his march Robert Mühle.
ponent manufacturing and design in toward self-sufficiency. In 2014, the com- “We aren’t able to produce our own
wheels, but we can make everything that
is flat. We will develop step by step and
the next step could be for us to make our
Hans-Jürgen
Mühle (left)
own wheels,” Mühle says. Escapements
founded Mühle- are another matter: producing them in
Glashütte in house would be impossible for a com-
1994 and ran it pany selling in Mühle-Glashütte’s price
until son Thilo
range of about $1,600 to $5,000, he says.
Mühle took over
in 2007. The company makes about 8,500 watches
per year. According to Mühle, the models
that best represent the brand’s character
are the Teutonia, a simply styled watch
that comes in chronograph and non-
chronograph versions, and the S.A.R.
Rescue-Timer, a rugged sports watch
water resistant to 1,000 meters. 

WT_0116_WT-New-York_04.qxp 02.12.15 14:40 Seite 111
WATCHTIME NEW YORK

DEBUTS
Big crowds and big buzz mark WatchTime’s new

watch show held in New York City in October.
BY MARK BERNARDO
PHOTOS BY WATCHANISH
W atchTime hosted America’s largest watch

event for collectors and aficionados,
watches and mingled with watch company
executives, industry experts, and fellow
Instagram star Anish
Bhatt, founder of the
WatchAnish watch
WatchTime New York, on Oct. 23 and watch aficionados. The program also and lifestyle blog
24 at Manhattan’s Gotham Hall, draw- included several presentations and (second from right),
ing an enthusiastic crowd of more than watchmaking demonstrations. poses for a photo at
700 guests over the course of the two-day The sponsoring brands were A. Lange WTNY with other
watch aficionados.
event. Twenty luxury watch brands, from & Söhne, Armin Strom, Ball Watch, Bell
internationally renowned manufacturers & Ross, Blancpain, Breguet, Carl F.
to up-and-coming independents, dis- Bucherer, Emmanuel Bouchet, F.P.
played their newest timepieces, some of Journe, MeisterSinger, Moritz Gross-
which were being seen by the American mann, Mühle-Glashütte, Nomos, Pierre
public for the first time. Guests tried on DeRoche, Porsche Design, RGM, Tutima,


Ulysse Nardin and Visconti. Porsche

Design used WatchTime New York for
the launch of its all-new 1919 Datetimer
Series; Armin Strom created an exclusive
white-gold/blue PVD version of its Skele-
ton Pure Water model exclusively for the
show. A. Lange & Söhne and Seiko had
watchmakers working at benches at
their exhibits, giving demonstrations and
taking questions.
The diverse crowd at the sold-out
VIP cocktail party on Friday included
professional boxer and boxing commen-
tator Paulie Malignaggi, actor Dwayne
Hill (Mean Girls), and social media sen-
sation Anish Bhatt, founder of watch-
and-lifestyle site WatchAnish.com.
WatchAnish was a co-sponsor of the
show and Bhatt was on hand both days
meeting with brands and guests and cov-
ering the event. Bhatt was one of numer-
ous U.S. and European bloggers who
attended the show and posted articles
about it.
The all-day session on Saturday was
marked by a steady flow of guests and
strong camaraderie. One example: three
collectors who own RGM watches got to
meet in person the man who made them,
Roland G. Murphy, at his exhibit. Mur-
phy took selfies with the men wearing his
watches. The day was also highlighted
by several presentations and events.
WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Joe Thomp-
son gave a presentation called “On My
Watch,” an anecdotal talk and Q&A ses-
sion about his 38 years covering the
watch industry. On Saturday afternoon,
watch expert and brand consultant Jeff
Kingston gave a guided “timepiece tour”
of the event, pointing out interesting
watches from the brand exhibitors. Later
that day, Kingston presented his annual
“Inside Basel & Geneva” multimedia
presentation, offering his take on the top
Opening night
of WTNY at
Manhattan’s
Gotham Hall

Above: Boys
and their toys
Left:
Watchmaking
demonstration
by A. Lange &
Söhne
A BMW Series 7 sedan at

the entrance to WTNY
watches introduced at the Swiss watch event,” said Sara Orlando, publisher of
fairs. Prior to that presentation was an WatchTime. “I want to thank everyone
informal “Watches and Whisky Happy who attended, and especially all of the
Hour” at which guests could talk watches watch sponsors and other brand partners
and sip Dalmore single malt Scotch with who played a key role in making the
Bhatt. show such a smashing success.” Orlando
Guests also enjoyed hospitality from noted that collectors came from far and
an array of other brand partners. BMW wide; one, Alok K. Goel, traveled all the
chauffeured guests around town in a way from New Delhi, India.
2016 7 Series sedan. Delta Airlines hosted Orlando and show manager Minda
a life-size first-class cabin with flight Larsen announced after the show that
attendants serving wine. SLH Hotel they are already planning the 2016 edi-
Group provided discounted rooms for tion of WatchTime New York. Show
out-of-town attendees. Men’s lifestyle dates and other details will be announced
blog French Morning sponsored a tasting in WatchTime magazine and on
of M. Chapoutier wines. watchtime.com.
“It was a pleasure to meet so many Watch aficionado Orestes Sanchez
watch enthusiasts and WatchTime fans in praised the inaugural show. “This is the
person at the event,” said Thompson. best event of the year,” he said. “I can’t
“The great turnout on both days was wait for the next one. There is no other
another reminder of the deep, passionate opportunity to see, touch, wear and learn
interest that WatchTime readers have in about such a wide selection of watches
watches and the watch industry.” without the pressure of a salesman, but
“WatchTime New York exceeded all still with the opportunity to make your

Adam Craniotes (center), founder of the Red Bar
the expectations we had for a first-year dream a reality.” watch aficionados group, talking with Anish Bhatt
The scene at WTNY
A selfie with a Ulysse Nardin watch

WT_0116_Bronze_05_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:43 Seite 116
Panerai and
Archimede use the
bimetallic alloy
CuSn8 for their
bronze watch cases.
WHAT’S OLD
IS NEW AGAIN
We shine a spotlight on bronze, that most ancient

of new case materials.
BY MARTINA RICHTER AND MELISSA GÖSSLING
his is an era of offbeat, their maritime identity. In other watches, Bronze is somewhat more brittle than
T
heretofore-unheard-of case bronze is used simply for its appearance: stainless steel and weighs about 10 per-
materials like forged car- the metal has a vintage-like matte cent more. It reacts with oxygen, which
bon, tantalum, alusic, patina, which differs from watch to results in a distinctive patina. This coat-
titanium ceramic and watch and hence makes each watch ing, which is oxidized copper, protects
even something called unique. Here’s a look at this time-hon- the underlying material against corrosion
“Texalium” (aluminum-coated carbon ored metal. but leaves all other characteristics
fiber). But one “new” case material has Alloys that contain at least 60 percent unchanged.
been around so long it has a prehistoric copper can be called “bronze,” but the Among the various mixtures of cop-
age named after it: bronze. In recent term usually refers to alloys that are made per and tin, experts distinguish between
years, brands including IWC, Panerai, from a mixture of copper and tin. Pure wrought or worked alloys, which include
Zenith, Squale, U-Boat, Anonimo and copper is relatively soft and dents easily as much as 9 percent tin, and cast alloys,
Bulgari have introduced bronze watches. while tin is brittle and breaks. But when which usually contain between 9 and 12
Most are divers’ watches or have a nau- combined, the resulting alloy resists wear, percent tin. Bronzes that contain 20 per-
tical theme; for them, bronze, used for retains its shape and is antimagnetic. And cent tin are called “bell bronze.”
centuries to make ship fittings and sea- its most outstanding property is its ability But bronzes are seldom made of just
faring equipment, is a way to underline to resist corrosion in seawater. copper and tin; adding other materials cre-

Panerai launched its first bronze watch, the

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days
Automatic Bronzo, as a limited edition in 2011.
Aluminum bronze is a golden yellow

alloy that can be cast and wrought. It
usually contains between 9 and 14 per-
cent aluminum. Iron, manganese and
nickel are often added to aluminum
bronze. Anonimo uses a type of alu-
minum bronze that contains 84 percent
copper and 11.5 percent aluminum, in
addition to smaller quantities of nickel,
manganese, iron, zinc, tin and lead. A
Both the bezel and case are made of bronze. A green dial underscores Panerai’s affiliation with very thin exterior film of aluminum
the ocean.
results in this alloy’s extremely high
resistance to saltwater. Anonimo has used
aluminum bronze since 1997. Each series
ates alloys with tailor-made properties. blend used by the watch brand Anonimo that Anonimo offers includes at least one
Phosphorus and zinc are usually added to is in this category. When a material other model with a bronze case.
alloys that are wrought; these two sub- than tin is added to copper, the resulting Panerai relies on the bimetallic alloy
stances as well as lead, nickel and iron are alloy is named for the additional sub- CuSn8 for its bronze cases, which it has
added to cast alloys. These blends are stance, i.e., “aluminum bronze,” “lead used for two limited-edition watches.
known as “multi-alloy bronzes.” If alloys bronze,” “phosphorus bronze,” etc. Man- CuSn8 contains 92 percent copper and 8
contain little or no tin, they’re called “spe- ufacturers use different alloys to create percent tin. Ickler, a case manufacturer
cial bronzes.” The copper-aluminum each brand’s distinctive nuances of color. based in Pforzheim, Germany, also uses

CASE MATERIALS
Bronze
The Gefica BiRetro Safari,

Bulgari’s only bronze watch
IWC’s Aquatimer Chronograph
Edition “Expedition Charles
Darwin”
Anonimo’s bronze bezel as it appears when new

(right) and after it acquires a patina of oxidized
copper (left) this bronze alloy for the cases of its
Archimede pilots’ watches. Archimede
has three bronze-cased models in its stan-
dard collection.
The first of Panerai’s bronze limited
editions debuted in 2011. The Luminor
Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic
Bronzo has a sea-green dial to underline
the brand’s history as a supplier of dive
watches and other diving instruments.
The Militare Panerai equipped frogmen in the Italian
Alpini PRI Navy with dive watches 80 years ago. A
Limited Edition limited-edition Luminor Submersible
Bronze from with a bronze case and a power-reserve
Anonimo
display on its dial was unveiled in 2013.
Both watches are now available only on
Anonimo uses an the secondary market.
aluminum bronze
The case of Gérald Genta’s Gefica,
alloy.
launched in 1988, was made of a bronze
alloy containing more than 90 percent
copper. It is said to be the first bronze lux-
ury watch. Genta supposedly designed
the watch at the request of a big-game
hunter, who wanted a watch with a matte
finish that would not frighten away prey
by reflecting sunlight. (Bulgari bought the
Gérald Genta brand in 2000 and in 2007
brought out an updated version of the
Gefica, also in bronze: the Gefica BiRetro
Safari.)
The bronze-case Squale

Master divers’ watch
Archimede began making bronze IWC used bronze for its Aquatimer
watches in 2013. Like Gérald Genta, it Chronograph Edition “Expedition
chose the metal for its matte patina, and Charles Darwin,” introduced in 2014. In
uses it not only for the cases and crowns that model, IWC’s first bronze watch, the
but also for the rivets on the leather metal is a reference to the HMS Beagle,
straps. The watches’ casebacks are steel. the ship that took Darwin on his expedi-
Last year, Zenith introduced its Pilot tion to the Galapagos Islands. Bronze
Type 20 Extra Special Bronze, which has was used for the ship’s portholes, fittings
a 45-mm case. The movement, the Zenith and nautical instruments.
3000, is automatic. Zenith chose bronze The nautically inspired brands
for this version of the watch (it’s also Aquadive and U-Boat also offer limited-
available in steel) because it enhances the edition bronze watches. Aquadive’s
watch’s vintage styling. Bathyscaphe 100 Bronze has a case cut
The U-Boat Chimera
The bronze version of

Zenith’s Pilot Type 20
Extra Special
The Aquadive Bathyscaphe

100 Bronze
from a solid piece of bronze. It has a

screw-down caseback, also made of
bronze. U-Boat’s Chimera Bronze 43 has
a bronze case, caseback, screws, crown
protector and serial number plate. The
crystal is bronzed sapphire.
Bronze will never eclipse steel or gold
as a watch-case material, but, given the
current popularity of dive and nautically
themed watches, we’re likely to see more
An Archimede pilots’ watch of it in the coming years. 

WT_0116_Facetime_02_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:48 Seite 120
FACEtime
On a visit to Bora Bora,

Alberto Aguilar-Molina
wears his steel and gold
Rolex GMT-Master II
and Stephanie Black
her Rolex steel and gold
Yachtmaster.
On a visit to Venice,
Italy, left to right, Dr.
James Winn, Quang To
and Dr. Frank Tran
sport the Omega
Seamaster 300
“Spectre” Limited
Edition watches they
bought to celebrate the
new James Bond movie.
Dr. James Samuel wears a TAG Heuer V2 Calibre 1887

Chronograph on the job at Advocate Condell Immediate Care
Center in Gurnee, Ill.
At their wedding, held at Boston Public Garden in June, groom At Edouard Clais’s graduation from medical school in October, left to right, Paul
Dale Cruse wears a 1972 Rolex GMT-Master; bride Heather Clais wears a Rolex GMT-Master II; Christophe Clais, a Panerai Luminor Marina
Humble, a 2014 Shinola Runwell; and their officiant, Matt 1950 3 Days Automatic PAM 312; Edouard Clais, a Longines Master Collection
Gregory, a 2007 TAG Heuer Monaco. Retrograde Moon Phase; and Antoine Clais, an Oris Divers Date.

WT_0116_Facetime_02_Proof.qxp 02.12.15 14:49 Seite 121
Facetime
Galleries
To submit a photo, please
send your image to
photo@watchtime.com with
a short description identify-
ing each person in the photo
and the watch each one is
wearing. Please give the first
and last name of the wearer
and the brand and model of
the watch. If the photo was
taken at an event, please
specify when and where it
was held. Only clear images
in which the faces of both
watch and wearer are visible
will be considered for publi-
cation. Images must be in
JPEG format, no smaller than
1 MB. Only the best-quality
and most interesting photos
will be considered.
Cruising the Inside Passage in Alaska on a family vacation, David Spaid wears an IWC Portugieser
Automatic; Brian Spaid, a Speake-Marin Spirit Pioneer Mark I; and Scott Spaid, a Zenith Pilot Montre
d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar.
Celebrating the de Papes’ first anniversary, left to right, Patrick de Pape wears a Citizen Eco-Drive World In front of the Duomo in Milan, Geronico
Time A-T; David Walley, a Jaeger- LeCoultre Reverso Night & Day; Stephanie Walley, a Cartier rose-gold Giovanni wears a Longines Grande
Tank Française; and Emma de Pape, a Movado Museum Classic. Vitesse Andre Agassi Limited Edition.
WT_0116_LastMinute_02.qxp 02.12.15 14:49 Seite 122
LASTminute
BY JOE THOMPSON
The Fourth Revolution?

A
t our WatchTime New York show word from the Japanese companies,” one
in October, I gave a little talk savvy American watch executive wrote
about how lucky I was to get to me recently. “The $64,000 question is,
cover the watch industry at a momentous ‘Are the Japanese sitting this one out?’ I
time in its history. Over the past 38 years, cannot imagine that Seiko, Casio and Cit-
I’ve had a front-row seat for the three rev- izen are going to just sit on the sidelines.
olutions that created the modern watch All three have always pushed technical
world. They were the quartz-watch revo- prowess as part of their brand message. I
lution of the 1970s, the fashion-watch am curious as hell about this one.” He’s
revolution of the 1980s, and the mechan- not alone. So far, Japan’s Big Three are
ical-watch renaissance – a counter-revo- casting a cold eye on smartwatches. Do
lution, actually – of the 1990s. It’s hard to they know something the rest don’t?
believe that I could be this lucky, but I Japanese executives I’ve talked to say
might get to cover a fourth revolution simply that they don’t consider “smart-
before I hang up my notebook for good: watches” watches. Different product, dif-
the smartwatch revolution. ferent market, they say.
I was, and remain, a smartwatch We’ve seen this syndrome before.
skeptic for reasons I’ve explained here During the quartz-watch revolution, the
previously. But I am also a moron at pre- first wave of digital watches came from
dicting the future. It’s hard enough for me Smartwatches: $9 billion in sales last year? American electronics companies (National
to find out what’s actually happening, let Semiconductor, Fairchild, Texas Instru-
alone figuring out what’s going to hap- ments and a horde of others) with LED
pen. So while I remain skeptical about Swatch Bellamy watch. It uses Near Field (light-emitting diode) displays. They
whether consumers will warm to con- Communication wireless technology to were all the rage. Seiko and Citizen did
nected watches in the long run, I am fas- enable wearers to pay for purchases at not embrace LED technology. They con-
cinated at the developments that are now POS terminals across China using their sidered it inferior to LCD (liquid crystal
coming fast and furious in the wake of watches starting in January. Swatch will display). In 1975, with LEDs the hot new
Apple’s entry into the watch market. launch Bellamy in Switzerland and the thing, Seiko salesmen in the U.S. pleaded
Consumers will have their say once the United States soon. with management to provide them with
wave of new smartwatches hits the mar- • In November, a San Francisco com- LED watches so they could sell some-
ket. But smartwatches have certainly cap- pany called Chronos Wearables unveiled thing. Seiko told them to be patient, that
tured the fancy of watch producers. Plus a thin, simple, $99 device that attaches to the LED rage would pass and LCDs
a bevy of newbies who see an opportunity the caseback of standard analog watches, would become the industry standard.
in a potentially enormous market. mechanical or quartz, and turns the poor That’s exactly what happened. Now
Some things to note: dumb things into smartwatches using Japan again is passing on the hot new
• In November, TAG Heuer and “micro-suction technology.” So who thing in favor of their version of a “con-
Movado joined the swelling parade of needs Apple? They’ll be available in nected” watch: satellite wave technology.
Swiss brands with smartwatches. (See spring 2016. Do they know something the others
our report on page 30.) More are on the Meanwhile, estimates of the market don’t?
way. for wearable devices are staggering. One The smartwatch phenomenon is not a
• In October, Fossil launched two example: CCS Insight, a British research full-fledged watch revolution yet. It’s too
smartwatches. In November it an- firm, predicted that 2015 sales of smart- soon to tell. The revolution seems nigh.
nounced that it would acquire Misfit, an watches would hit $9 billion! It predicts But maybe not. Maybe connected tech-
activity tracking company, for $260 mil- the market for all wearable devices will nology will settle into a different form or
lion, to pump up its offering of smart- reach $25 billion in 2019. format than a wristwatch. Like the Fitbit
watches and other wearable products. Then there is the curious case of the bracelet. Or something not introduced
• In October in Shanghai, Swatch Japanese: they are MIA on the smart- yet. Who knows? No one, yet. Which is
Group CEO Nick Hayek introduced the watch front. “I have not seen a single why all this is so fascinating. 

atelier-zuppinger.ch
Crown
Royal headgear
or watch winder?
Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking
at www.hautehorlogerie.org
Crown | Te winding crown is a knurled or futed button of various shapes, held

between the thumb and forefnger and used to wind the watch. Some crowns incor-
porate a mobile pushbutton for operating a chronograph mechanism or to release the
cover of a hunter case.
THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET
DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MB&F | MONTBLANC | OFFICINE PANERAI
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Breguet, the innovator.
High frequency and high precision
A concentrated blend of horological innovations, the Classique Chronométrie
7727 with its balance fitted on magnetic pivots and operating at a frequency
of 10 Hz achieves an average rate of -1 to +3 seconds per day. Notably thanks
to complete mastery of silicon properties and magnetism, this new mile-
stone in the field of high-precision mechanical watchmaking embodies the
spirit of innovation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. History is still being written...
BREGUET BOUTIQUES – NEW YORK 646 692-6469 – BEVERLY HILLS 3 10 8 6 0 - 9 9 11

BAL HARBOUR 3 0 5 8 6 6 - 10 6 1 – L A S V E G A S 7 0 2 7 3 3 - 74 3 5 – T O L L F R E E 8 7 7 - 4 0 3 - 8 1 6 3 – W W W . B R E G U E T . C O M
T7727_BB-Watchtime_228x276.indd
WATCH_ppcoplcd H1505173.1.indd 12 21.11.14
12/7/15 09:11
11:20 AM

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HISTORY OF THE COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA

AMERICA’S #1 WATCH MAGAZINE

TESTING THE NEW

tHis rOtONDe De cartier watcH cOMBiNes tHree watcHMaKiNG cOMPLicatiONs iNtO

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Miami • Aventura Mall • 305-830-1786

Carlsbad, Geneva, Istanbul, Moscow, Paris, St-Petersburg, Beirut,

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MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.

TO OBTAIN FURTHER INFORMATION IN NORTH AMERICA, PLEASE CONTACT

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WatchTime New York:

10 WatchTime February 2016

WATCH_ppcoplcd H1505174.1.indd 1 12/7/15 11:28 AM

12 WatchTime February 2016

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. could be working on its legendary status for

Portuguese seafarers held out the promise of

WATCH_ppcoplcd H1504989.1.indd 1 11/13/15 9:06 AM

CONTENTS WatchTime, January-February, 2016

88 FROM RAW METAL TO MOVEMENT

14 WatchTime February 2016

106 MADE IN GLASHÜTTE 24 WORLD OF WATCHTIME

DEPARTMENTS 120 FACETIME

12 EDITOR’S LETTER ON THE COVER: The IWC Portugieser Automatic. Photo

16 WatchTime February 2016

Q&A: JEAN-CLAUDE BIVER ON THE

Scan this code JUKE BOX HERO: HARRY WINSTON OPUS 14

18 WatchTime February 2016

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THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WATCHES

Editor-in-Chief/Associate Publisher Joe Thompson

GENEVA PARIS TOKYO HONG KONG BEIJING

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THE MAGAZINE OF FINE WATCHES

EBNER PUBLISHING INC.

Management & Administration

Publisher Sara M. Orlando

Subscriptions Steve Capasso

EBNER PUBLISHING GROUP

Executive Board Gerrit Klein

Chief Innovation Officer Dominik Grau

International Editorial Director/Watch Division Rüdiger Bucher

Production Director Michael Kessler

LENKERSDORFER JEWELERS / Tysons Corner Center / McLean, VA / 703-506-6712

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Magazines Website Apps Events

‘WEARING A $10,000+ TIMEPIECE ON A

REMEMBER THE HYDROMAX! YOU SURE THAT’S A JENNY?

‘WHEN I TIMED MY ROLEX SUB-DATE TO SEE IF

28 WatchTime February 2016

For more information please contact:

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30 WatchTime February 2016

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32 WatchTime February 2016

GPS ATOMIC SOLAR HYBRID* 2

©2015 CASIO AMERICA, INC.

*1 As of September 2014, CASIO investigation. *2 Function combining CASIO solar

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The Envelope, Please tors attend. Watch brands range from

34 WatchTime February 2016

1 As of September 2014, CASIO investigation. 2 Function combining CASIO solar