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7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

Posted by Kelly | Handmade Soap, Soap Instructions and Ideas | 83 comments

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Homemade or Handmade Soap is a great way to be in control of what is going on your family’s skin (and
thus, into their bodies). When I first looked into soap making, I felt like I had information overload. It
took me a while of reading about it before I decided I was ready to make my first batch. Information is
here, there, and everywhere, but not much of it is as detailed or step by step as I would have liked. Now,
years later, I’m super glad to be able to put together these 7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for
Beginners. It may seem difficult at first, but once you do it once or twice, you’ll realize that it’s really not
that big of a deal…and can be super addicting 😉

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

Of course you can always try %100 Natural Soap bars from my Shop as well.

Quick Summary:

Weigh and melt your fats in a large pot.

Weigh the lye in a zip close bag and weigh your water into a plastic container. Go OUTSIDE and slowly
pour lye into container of weighed water and stir with stainless steel spoon. Important!!! Don’t pour the
water into the lye. Pour the lye into the water (more below)

Prepare mold (add wax paper if necessary)

Weigh essential oils according to recipe, set aside.

When fats and lye both reach about 100° F, pour lye into pot of oil and stir.

Use blender on 5 minutes, stir by hand 5 minutes, etc. on and off until trace.

Add essential oils and any natural coloring agents or textures, stir very well.

Pour into mold and incubate for 24 hours.

Remove from mold and cut.

Let air out and harden. Use after 4-6 weeks.

Big Tip: Think of your ingredients in 3 categories

Fats and oils. These go in one pot. These are things like lard (pork fat) or tallow (beef fat), coconut oil,
olive oil, and palm oil. I don’t like to use crisco or vegetable oil because of their soy content, pesticide
residue, and preservatives.

Lye crystals and water. These will be combined to make “lye water” in a separate dish from your fats
and oils. If you are trying a milk recipe you will often add it here in place of some of the water.

Essential oils and other Ingredients. These will be added at the last-minute for smell, color, or texture.
This also includes honey and salts.

Tools

You will need the following items:

Stainless steel pot (no iron or aluminum)

Stainless steel spoon

Plastic spatula

Hand mixer. A stick blender helps it come to trace faster.

Zip close bag

Bowls to measure oils

Container dedicated to lye water (I use an old plastic container)

Digital scale that weighs in ounces to the tenths place (e.g. 2.3oz)

Thermometer (a cheap candy thermometer works fine)

Mold to pour soap in

Wax paper to line mold if necessary

Towels for incubating mold.

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

Step #1: Fats and Oils

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for BeginnersDifferent fats add different qualities to your soap. For
example, coconut oil will help create a lather, while castor oil is great for bubbles. For a great outline of
oils and their uses in soap (and all kinds of other great info.), see this website: Soap Making Essentials.
The first thing you need to know if you’ve never made soap is that your ingredients are weighed, not
measured. And they need to be precise! Of course, the smaller the batch, the more precise you need to
be. I purchased a relatively cheap digital scale (like this one) that lets you set your bowl on the scale and
reset it to zero so that you are only measuring the ingredients and not the bowl (less math). Use a
rubber spatula to scrape all the little bits into your large stainless steel pot. Be precise.

Step #2: Lye and Water

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for BeginnersWhere to Get it:

I searched and searched for lye at a local store. Apparently it’s also used for making some type of illegal
drug as well, so a few people gave me weird looks and asked why I wanted it. Really? Anyway, I found it
in the plumbing section of an Ace Hardware store for a little over $3 for 16 oz. You have to get the pure
crystals, not some liquid concoction! If you don’t want to search everywhere you can get some on
Amazon.

What is It:

Lye’s real name is sodium hydroxide. It is originally derived from ash (We can easily gather a different
form that makes a softer soap called potassium hydroxide or potash from firewood ashes).

It will react with water. The chemical reaction produces an invisible gas and heat! Blasting your lye water
mixture to a whopping 200 degrees F, depending on your starting water temperature.

How to Use it:

I measure the lye into a plastic bag and the water into a medium sized plastic container. This way I
remember to pour the lye into the water and not the other way around. If you pour water into lye, the
lye to water ratio is so high that the lye can explode (so I’ve read…and I don’t want to test it). I go
outside and pour the lye into the water and stir. I even did this in a snow storm once (I should have
taken a picture).

Once the lye is dissolved there are no more fumes. This only takes about a minute (I usually stir while
holding my breath and then run away). After it is all dissolved you can take it inside very carefully. If it
gets on your skin it will feel itchy long before you notice the damage it is doing. It will burn your skin if
you don’t wash it off.

Lye also reacts with aluminum and iron. Do not use utensils with those ingredients or the lye will slowly
eat away at them. Use stainless steel, plastic, or glass.

Safety:

I recommend using safety glasses, a long sleeve shirt, gloves, and a mouth mask. This may seem silly, but
the first time I made soap I didn’t have any of these things. Let’s just say, when you breathe in lye fumes
it literally takes your breath away. Also, later when you blend the lye with the oils some tiny bits can
splash up onto your arms and begin to burn you. Don’t be scared though! Just keep the kids out of the
kitchen and treat it like you would bleach – you don’t want it on you.

#3 Temperatures

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for BeginnersTemperatures are important! After all, you want a
chemical reaction to occur. The fat molecules need to be blasted open by the lye molecules, converting
both molecules into soap.

You will have to heat up your fats in order to get them up to around 100F degrees or to melt the hard
fats. I try to have my oil AND lye right under 100F (95-100) before I add the lye water to the fats.

It can be a bit of a juggle to get both your lye water and your fats/oils to the same temperature. If one is
cooling faster than the other, just give it a cold water bath by running some cold water in your sink and
placing your pot or plastic container in it. If one is cooling down too fast, then cover it or pace it in a hot
bath so it stops cooling. Be precise and you won’t have to guess about what went wrong. Instead, the
only thing you’ll have to worry about is if it’s ready to pour yet or not.

Step #4: Trace

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for BeginnersTrace is what it is called when the soap is ready to
pour into the mold. It leaves a “trace” behind on the top of the mixture. You will usually see the soap
turn a creamy color and will feel it get thicker as you stir. Use your big spoon to drizzle a little on top of
the mixture. If it sinks right in, then it’s not ready (Though, the first batch I made never left a trace that I
could see and I thought it was not going to set. It set up beautifully. Now I know that’s how Castille Soap
often behaves.). If you look at it with the light reflecting off of it and you can see the drizzle leave a little
path on the top, then it has gotten to light trace. If it starts to become like thick pudding then it is at full
trace and needs to be poured quickly! You don’t want it setting up in your pot.

Step #5: Essential Oils

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for BeginnersAs recipes get more complicated, there are more
things that might be added in at the last minute. This is after you combine the lye water with your fats, it
has come to trace, and it is ready to pour into the mold. If you want true oils and not synthetic
chemically made smells, stick to Essential Oils. For more information on the differences see my article on
Essential Oils vs Fragrance Oils.

Most recipes will give you the amount of Essential Oils to add that’s good for that size batch. Though,
this can vary depending on the essential oil since some are more potent than others. Use it as a
guideline and then after you stir it in see if you can smell it. I don’t like my soap to have a strong scent,
but others do. Use what you like!

Step #6: Pour and Incubate

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

Yes, It’s a funny position, but it works.

You have to have something to put it in for it to set up. Want some frugal ideas?

You can use:

a plastic container, but I had a hard time finding one that wasn’t rounded or ridged on the bottom or
sides.

a cardboard box

glass container, but these are harder to get your soap out of (I don’t care what people claim about
putting it in the freezer)

PVC pipe – nice round soap

Pringles cans – peel off the outside when it sets.

Small wooden planter

Make a wooden mold

Buy a Wooden Mold

Buy silicone molds

7 Easy Steps to homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

I was worried about getting my soap out of my plastic container that I used with my first batch and I
lined it with plastic wrap. I’ve seen pictures where people have done this. It did not work out well! Even
though I tried to get out all the wrinkles, I apparently did not and it was folded into the soap where if I
pulled, it tore and was stuck into the soap a little. It also made tons of wrinkles! My favorite liner? Wax
Paper!! Works great!

So, once you’ve lined your mold with wax paper (if necessary) and poured your soap into it. Give it a
slight jiggle to make sure it’s all settled evenly. You’ll want to place it on a very even surface for the first
24 hours or you will have crooked soap.

Cover in towels to help keep the heat in (remember that chemical process). Obviously, I use less towels
in the summer and more in the winter. Below is a picture of my soap box in a plastic container in the
winter. Yes, my house is freezing during the winter!! In the summer I just drape 2 towels over the box.

Soap needs to be incubated for a 24 hour period. After it is poured into a mold, place on a blanket (or
towel if it is a small batch), and place blankets all around it. After the 24-48 hour period check to see if it
is set. If set, you can take your soap out of the mold and cut.

#7 Curing and Storing

Lye soap is not ready to use at once. The lye has not finished converting the oil molecules into soap
molecules. If you use it right away, it may quite possibly burn your skin. The longer it sets the more mild
it will get, the harder it will get, and the longer it will last. I heard it compared to cow manure once; it
stays hot because of the decomposition of its contents, but give it enough time and it will become as
mild as good dirt. So, cut your soap and let it cure for 4-6 weeks, turning occasionally so that all sides dry
out.

Where to put it?

The only downfall is that over time your essential oils will grow fainter, but I’m talking a few years or so
before you may notice a difference. One idea is to use a plastic storage bin with drawers like this one.
This way, you can semi cover them, but leave the drawer cracked open a bit for ventilation while they
continue to cure. You don’t want to leave them where there may be too much moisture and they will
end up with mold over time. A nice cool dry place is great.

7 Easy Steps to Homemade Lye Soap for Beginners

Need Recipes? Check out my Homemade Soap Page for lots of great resources!

Shared on some of these great blogs.

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83 Comments

83 Comments

Leave your reply.

Lisa· Reply

September 21, 2015 at 7:05 AM

Hi Kelly,

Could you share with me where you got the wooden mold box as well as the divider inside of it? I am
thinking of making soap and I thought that looked like a really good idea. I wasn’t sure if it was a box and
divider that you made or it could be purchased somewhere. Thanks for any help and for sharing your
knowledge on making soap.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR
September 21, 2015 at 11:42 AM

I got that mold from Brambleberry. I have two and absolutely love them. They both came with the ends
falling off and I had to put some finishing nails in them to reinforce the sides, but that was quick and
easy. They sell smaller ones as well. The one in the picture is for 36 bars.

Lisa· Reply

September 21, 2015 at 2:14 PM

Thank you Kelly for that information on the mold. I’ll find that company and check it out. Thanks again
and have a great week.

Carol· Reply

September 21, 2015 at 7:08 PM

Hello. Great article. I have wanted to make soap for awhile now, but am terrified to make the ‘jump’!
this article has again made my creative side anxious to begin. A few questions: first, I noted that there
was no picture ‘below’ showing your soapbox in a plastic container in the winter..

Also went to the Brambleberry site to look at the wooden mold, (yikes, spendy!But I’m sure worth it)
and had some questions about :

When you line the box, do you line the sides of all the individual soaps? Or just the bottom of the box,
and the sides of the box? Lining the sides, won’t that also make wrinkles? The site mentioned using
mineral oil….I don’t use petroleum at all…what is the point of making great natural stuff if you use nasty
stuff like that? Is there anything you can use in place of mineral oil and do you use it? You mention using
PVC pipe, but how do you get the soap out??? Does it shrink that much when drying that it will just fall
out? Sorry about all these questions, but I am really going to try this soon, and I’d like to make sure I
have ALL the info in order to have a successful product! (Using others’ mistakes so I don’t have them!!!
LOL!)

Thanks again for a great post!

Sasha Chong· Reply

September 22, 2015 at 3:04 PM

Good afternoon and thank you so much Kelly for your article. You stay true to your slogan, and as usual
it’s a pleasure reading your publications. This was done in simple steps that us your viewers can
understand and appreciate. Really a good read and makes me more excited to do soaping. Thanks again,
and keep up the great work. God’s continued blessings on you and your family.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

September 22, 2015 at 4:03 PM

Thank you for your kind words Sasha

Kallee· Reply

September 25, 2015 at 8:02 PM

Wow. What a process, but it looks terrific. Homemade stuff is always so good.

Katerina· Reply

September 26, 2015 at 9:20 AM

When I was in high school our teacher taught us how to make soap. You brought so many memories to
me!

Sandra· Reply

September 26, 2015 at 12:00 PM

I always see sodium hydroxide as a listed ingredient in products. Now I know that it’s lye! Thanks for the
details on making your own soap. There are many benefits to knowing what you are lathering on your
body, and love that you can customize each batch!

Betsy @ Desserts Required· Reply

September 26, 2015 at 9:21 PM

My sister used to make her own soaps and I loved each and every one of them!
Joy @ Joy Love Food· Reply

September 27, 2015 at 6:14 AM

I love homemade soaps, and would love to make my own, thanks for the easy steps!

Gregg The Rural Economist· Reply

September 29, 2015 at 7:13 AM

Love this post. Have shared it on all of my social media. We have made soap several times. My
grandfather even showed me how to get lye from wood ashes when I was younger.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

September 29, 2015 at 11:05 AM

Thank You Gregg. Love your site – the Rural Economist!

Sandra· Reply

September 29, 2015 at 9:39 AM

Great tutorial, thanks for sharing at Our Simple Homestead Blog Hop.

Therese· Reply

October 15, 2015 at 7:41 PM

Thankyou for your clear and consise instructions. I made a batch of castile soap (olive oil, rice bran oil
and coconut oil) about 6 months ago. I t turned out OK but there are 2 things that I wasn’t sure was
normal or not. First of all I use a handheld stick blender and found that my batch traced super fast, like a
few minutes, it set up super quick as well which made getting it into my various moulds tricky. After
about a day and a half I cut them up and placed on a wire rack in my cupboard to mature. I turned them
regularly and used one bar after about a month. It was a bit soft so I left it a few more weeks. I still
found it softish so left it a few months. While the soap is set I find that when I use it, it gets very soft and
squishy after the first few uses. I just thought it would be harder. Does this sound normal to you? I’m
keen to start making another batch soon for presents. Any suggestions?
Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

October 15, 2015 at 8:04 PM

It sounds like your recipe used a lot of olive oil. This can make for a very soft bar. If you try a different
recipe with less olive oil you should have a much harder bar. When it just starts to thicken get it in the
molds.

I have a number of recipes on my site. Let me know if you don’t find what you’re looking for.

Therese· Reply

October 16, 2015 at 5:43 AM

Thanks, I think you may be right. From memory I think the batch was 250gms coconut, 750gms olive oil
and a smaller amount of rice bran. I’ve perused your recipes. First of all I was wondering if a shampoo
bar can be used for the body. Also do you favour using part of your fat content in the form of animal fat?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

October 16, 2015 at 11:27 AM

The shampoo bars can definitely be used as body bars.

I do use animal fat. You can often ask your butcher to reserve fat trimmings for you for free or a few
cents.

Joby· Reply

December 21, 2015 at 10:43 AM

Very good article. Would have been nice if the measurements for ingredients would have been included
though?

maybe I missed them?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

December 21, 2015 at 10:48 AM

This is a general “how to” article. For a list of recipes using these methods, click on the Homemade Soap
tab in the menu above.

Jen· Reply

February 29, 2016 at 9:51 AM

Hi Kelly, I really love your soap recipes…however i have not been able to locate how much water to use
to dissolve the lye. Do you ever make your own lye from wood ashes. I have made several batches, but
nervous to use it (and waste the fats and essential oils). could you please let me know how much water
to use. Thanks!

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

March 1, 2016 at 3:34 PM

Water is going to vary, depending on your recipe. Do you have a specific recipe in mind? You can always
put your ingredients (all your fats) in a lye calculator like on soapcalc.net and it will tell you how much
water as well.

I haven’t used lye from my own wood ash (potash or potassium hydroxide), but using it from what
someone else has made – it makes a very soft soap. Find a specific recipe created for use of potassium
hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide. It will be designed for that difference.

Jewls· Reply

March 31, 2016 at 2:42 PM

Very nice summary of how to make soap. I’ve been making soap for years and I as so many others was
fearful of the lye/liquid step of the process. Funny that the way you described it is exactly how I do it.
Mix it up outside, holding my breath and run 🙂 Ok… I don’t run anymore, but I do move away quickly.
The fumes are dangerous if inhaled. Use caution.
Additionally, I too was nervous about the fats to liquid ratio. Find a lye calculator online (there are
several good ones). This will take away the confusion and give you the best odds at a perfectly
configured recipe. Remember too that every batch of soap can bring surprises. Some good, some… not
so much. It’s a learning process and no one gets it consistently right in the beginning. Don’t be afraid of
the mistakes. Have fun.

Once you’ve taken the first big step, your first batch, you’ll see that making soap is actually pretty easy.
Follow the safety guidelines and you’ll be making soap in no time. If you’re anything like me, you’ll be
giving it away (or maybe selling it) for an excuse to make more. It is a great way to share your love of all
things natural and always a welcome gift.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

March 31, 2016 at 3:51 PM

Thank you for your comments Jewls. I’m sure it helps others to hear that it’s not just me saying go ahead
and jump in and give it a try!! 🙂 It is really fun – a creative outlet for sure.

Julie· Reply

April 17, 2016 at 2:37 PM

Thank you so much for such a great step-by-step. I, too, have been reading tons and trying to wade
through so much information on making my own soap. After reading your post… I think I’m ready to
make the leap and do it. Appreciate it!

MaryLin Newren· Reply

April 18, 2017 at 1:32 AM

I plan to make your recipe #5, but I need an idea as to how many bars it will make?

I make bath soaps and love to use the silicone molds. My rectangle molds are 7-1/2

inches wide and 4-inches deep, and the mold has a set of 12. I’m afraid of not having

enough cavities to pour the soap into when the time comes, and I want to make sure
I’m prepared in case I need to buy more.

Also…how long was the entire process the first time you made the recipe? I want to make sure I give
myself the needed time with no interruptions.

Making home-made products is sooo fun! I first began making my own laundry soap, then bath soaps,
and now shampoo bars! It’s all so addicting…a natural high!

Thanks for everything!

MaryLin N.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

April 18, 2017 at 8:46 PM

A 12 slot mold usually makes 3 lbs, or 12 – 4oz bars. That recipe is made for 2 lbs. You will have enough
space in your mold.

You want to allow 3-4 hours for your first time making soap. I still take a few hours, even after hundreds
of batches, but that’s because I’ll melt my oils, and then go and do something else while it cools to 90-
100 degrees. Coming back some time in there to pour the lye into the water so it can start to cool as
well. So, even though you need that time, you’re not standing over it that whole time. Use a cold water
bath to cool things faster, and don’t forget to pour the lye into the water outside! You don’t want to
breathe those fumes that come off for the first 1-2 minutes.

MaryLin Newren· Reply

April 18, 2017 at 9:01 AM

Hi Kelly-

It’s MaryLin N. again. I forgot to ask you another question…

I realize you’ve been making shampoo bars for many years, and prices have

changed. but is there any way you can guestimate a ball-park amount of $ it

might cost to buy EVERYTHING to get started, possibly down to the thermometer
and mouth masks? I’m on a limited budget and plan to get started with part of our

tax refund. I just want an idea if it’s at all possible.

Thanks a million!

MaryLin N.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

April 18, 2017 at 8:48 PM

Wow, I don’t know. Think of it as an investment for a lot of bath and body recipes. You won’t use all of
your ingredients. You’ll have oils and butters left over for lip balm, lotion, shampoo bars, and body bars.
So, up front cost can be a little more, but it pays for itself soon. Do a search for items on Amazon. Try
Bulkapothecary.com as well.

Mary ann· Reply

April 19, 2017 at 4:55 PM

I’m really old, so making soap was part of my childhood on the farm! Both my Mom &a Dad made
scrubbing soap and it was just great for anything greasy needing to be clean. Maybe I can help with
some things..this is way too much “Little House On The Prairie!!

My folks used wood boxes that peaches came in. I use heavy cardboard boxes. Some that Costco packs
groceries are great. They are plastic coated. I cut them down

Line your forms with a dbl. layer of cotton muslin or cheese cloth. Helps release easily.

For scrubbing soap, add borax during the stir. My Dad added rosemary twigs to water for scent. They
always used rain (softened) water for all soap

We made soap after butchering season because of all the fat by-product, fall. We never made it inside.
Some butchers will sell you unrendered fat to be boiled down..again, outside! Smoked! To cure it kept in
a cool spot with the homemade wine all winter.

I so admire all of you!

Kelly· Reply
AUTHOR

April 19, 2017 at 5:21 PM

I love that Mary Ann! Thanks for the additional ideas. 🙂

Dori· Reply

August 5, 2017 at 6:17 PM

This is honestly the best site I’ve seen to explain making soap to a beginner. Thank you !

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

August 6, 2017 at 10:07 AM

Thank you Dori!!

Balgates· Reply

November 20, 2017 at 11:45 AM

Hi Kelly, I enjoy reading your processes in cold method, but I have the following observation: 1. You
don’t measure the concentration of the lyr with hydrometer. 2 the volume of the oil per lyr is not given.
Likewise in making the solution of the caustic, I expect the ratio if the caustic and water should be given
in cm3 for easy measurement.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

November 20, 2017 at 2:17 PM

It’s not necessary to measure the concentration of lye. There are standard tried and true measurements
that can be calculated using the SAP of the oils and doing some math OR using a handy dandy
soapmaking lye calculator.

Measurements are given in ounces. If you need to convert them, you can enter them online for help.
Same for water: easily convert to other measurements by using online calculators if necessary. Here in
America we commonly use ounces, which is why you will find those measurements on my website.

Joanne· Reply

January 4, 2018 at 11:43 PM

Hey Kelly! I’ve been stalking your site the past few weeks, got your book, got all the ingredients and
finally had the courage to make my first batch of cold process soap! everything worked out great for me
and it looks like it is hardening up quite well in my silicon molds. As for curing, I have read in your book
that it takes 4 – 6 weeks but how do i know when it’s really ready? I read on other sites online that i can
weigh my soap every few days and when the weight plateaus, it is done, is that right and is that the only
way?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

January 5, 2018 at 8:41 AM

Half of curing is losing some water weight. Thata what youd be measuring with weighing them over
time. Instead, just use your fingers. If it’s hard to your liking then you’re ready to go. Curing until the lye
has been fully saponified is different. That can take 48 hours to 3-4 weeks. We say wait 4-6 weeks to be
safe AND have a hard bar. Ph testing is extremely hard to get right. It’s best just to wait a few weeks.

Joanne· Reply

January 5, 2018 at 12:34 PM

thanks Kelly! I’ll just wait 4 weeks then 😛

Another question about curing – you mentioned to leave it on a shelf to cure. I have 3 animals and fur all
over my house. i was thinking of leaving them in a cupboard i rarely open. Will that provide enough
ventilation?

Cherry· Reply

March 23, 2018 at 4:45 PM

Thank you so much. I found all your information very well explained.

Blessings

Cherry from Christchurch

New Zealand

Beverly· Reply

April 20, 2018 at 11:30 AM

Where do you get the recipes?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

April 21, 2018 at 12:18 PM

Click on the soap tab above and go to the recipe section.

Precious· Reply

April 26, 2018 at 4:34 AM

Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

Please my question is, can I use Shea butter in place of meat fat ( Lard)

Thank you very much once again.

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

April 26, 2018 at 7:22 AM

No, babassu oil or palm oil are good replacements for lard or tallow but you still need to run it through a
lye calculator.
Janet· Reply

June 16, 2019 at 11:43 AM

What makes a shampoo bar different from a soap bar? Can I save space and use one bar for both?
Thanks

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

June 17, 2019 at 9:03 AM

You can use a shampoo bar as a body bar, no problem. Shampoo bars have a variety of oils that
moisturize, help with fullness or curl, etc. Body bars are ok for some hair types, but not the best for
others. So you can definitely give it a try.

Adam Reese· Reply

August 29, 2019 at 4:17 AM

Just an fyi sodium hydroxide should have no reaction with iron and if it did it would also react with the
steel. It will react with zinc, aluminium, and titanium. Also a few other non metals like sulfur. But no
reaction with iron.

Linda K Fisher-Berlanga· Reply

September 10, 2019 at 10:03 AM

other hot process recipes I’ve seen suggest the zap test for the soap to make sure the lye is processed
fully. I don’t see that in your recipes. Help me feel comfortable with this. I’m a little leary of sticking soap
in my mouth, tho, to make sure the lye is processed correctly.

Thank you!

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

September 15, 2019 at 4:47 PM

The zap test is completely unreliable. Instead, just wait 3-6 weeks for cold process. Hot process is ready
as soon as it cools.

Katie· Reply

April 16, 2020 at 1:54 AM

Hi I’ve been wanting to make my own soap!

Question…how do you know if all the lye is gone so it won’t burn skin? Also how do you heat up fats?
Just microwave?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

April 16, 2020 at 9:45 PM

In a large pot on the stove you can heat the fats until they melt.

A good soap recipe always has leftover fats. This makes sure there is never any lye left over. All my
recipes are around 5-15% superfatted. The exception is laundry soap recipes that don’t have much
leftover so that you don’t gum up your washing machine.

John Caldwell· Reply

May 5, 2020 at 1:23 PM

You say the measurements of content must be precise yet, you give no starting point measurements.
Why?

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

May 12, 2020 at 9:59 PM

This is a “how-to” so that you can understand what steps to take when you have a recipe. I have a lot of
recipes here. Just check them out and you’ll know where to go from there.
Amy· Reply

May 9, 2020 at 9:34 PM

I am just starting my journey of making soap. I have your book and have really enjoyed it! Question for
you – You mention needing a large stainless steel pot, what size would you recommend? Thanks so
much!

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

May 12, 2020 at 9:53 PM

As long as it holds double the size of your batch then you know you’ll have enough space to work with.
You just don’t want it so full that it splashes you when you blend it.

Mary· Reply

May 28, 2020 at 3:31 PM

I am thinking of going into soap making. Just trying to get things in order. Now that I have read this I am
motivated. Thanks.

Tiffany· Reply

May 31, 2020 at 9:53 PM

So I’ve never done lye soap before and I wonder if there is a substitute for tallow. I just really don’t want
animal fat in my soaps. I was looking at this process after reading about the jewelweed soap for poison
oak/ivy specifically. Thanks!

Kelly· Reply

AUTHOR

June 3, 2020 at 10:29 AM

I have a lot of vegan recipes on my website. Just use one of those and then incorporate the jewelweed
methods into that recipe.
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