Amritsar

By-

Neha Sharma

Being a history buff, I always wanted to visit Amritsar owing to its location & of the most horrific
times of partition of India & at the times of emergency. It is a big bustling city in Punjab, near the
border of Pakistan. I was particularly excited to visit Harmandir Sahib- Golden temple, wagah border
and the newly opened Partition museum. Amritsar has often found itself at the front lines of history
because of its location in the country’s north-west – including during the birth of the nation. I visited
for three days in July 2019 during the term break.

My first destination was the Partition Museum

I have long been fascinated by the independence of India movement, and the Partition. This period
in Indian history, the mid-20th century, is one of the most dramatic and world-shaking. The ripples
of are still felt to this day. So, I was really excited about finally visiting Amritsar, to see the brand-
new Partition Museum, and the many other historic and spiritual places in this fascinating city.

Some of the iconic photographs on display includes Mohandas K. “Mahatma” Gandhi at his spinning.
India’s last Viceroy, Lord Louis Mountbatten, standing on the steps of Viceroy House in New
Delhi during the Partition Talks. Prime Minister Nehru giving his speech on the ramparts of Red Fort.
And, heart-breaking images of some of the displaced millions, carrying their meagre possessions,
crammed into over-stuffed trains, walking long miles on foot, or balanced on bullock carts, as they
fled. And gruesome images of the dead lying the side of the road. Trains pulling into stations filled
with slaughtered and mutilated corpses.
Exhibits trace the history of Partition, and provide context and historical background for those who
are unfamiliar with modern Indian history. Memorabilia and oral histories bring the events to life
and give them a human dimension. A phulkari (Punjabi shawl) and briefcase, for example, were two
of the few possessions a young couple carried with them when they fled their homes. Their story is
written next to the display – each lost family members to the massacres, and they lost each other,
too, before they were miraculously reunited in a refugee camp.

After spending the afternoon at the partition museum, my next destination was the awe-inspiring
Harmandir Sahib or as it better known as the Golden Temple. This Gurudwara, located at the center
of the city, is the focal point of Sikh Religion and attract the maximum number of visitors from all
religion due to its astounding glory.
I immediately loved the atmosphere, which managed to remain serene and peaceful, even though it
buzzed with activity as volunteers cleaned, ushered visitors, and of course cooked and distributed
massive amounts of food in a practice known as langar. This is the term for the free vegetarian meal
that is served at Gurdwaras to all who visit – without distinction of religion, caste, gender, economic
status, or ethnicity. At langar, all people eat sitting together on the ground, as equals.

The kitchens at the Harmandir Sahib serve more than 50,000 meals per day. At different times when
I was there, I helped distribute rotis, drank milky sweet chai, and sat and ate the langar on the floor,
in a long row of people from all religions, all walks of life, all ages. It was an uplifting experience that
brought home the message of Sikhism, and of spirituality: we are all brothers and sisters, all part of
one family.

I was so impressed with the Harmandir Sahib for both pastoral and spiritual reasons. I truly felt a
deeply peaceful, spiritual atmosphere and never wanted to leave. I can understand why some
people sleep there. It’s opened 24 hours per day, and the amplified prayers, which are for the well-
being of the entire human race, ring out for about 20 hours per day, adding to the soothing vibe.

While I was on my way to Golden temple in the afternoon, I was talking to the auto driver. He
informed me that there was a recent beautification project in the area around the golden temple
which has made it very beautiful to walk. Although, I had never visited the place before, the initiative
had really managed to retain the historical character of the place, dotting the vehicle free boulevard
with impressive statues, lamps, benches and grand arcs and doors lining the way to golden temple
and Jallianwala bagh.

On the way from town hall & partition museum to Golden Temple, in between the stall and shops
lies the entrance to the infamous Jallianwala Bagh. On April 13, 1919, British Brigadier General
Reginald Dyer’s troops opened fire on a peaceful gathering within the confined space of Jallianwala
Bagh and killed hundreds of civilians. It was one of the blackest days in the history of British India.
There was nowhere for anyone to escape. Many jumped in a well and died. There is some
controversy about how many people died that day. Colonial records state that about 400 men,
women and children died, but Indian figures put the toll at closer to 1,000.

I’ve long been haunted by this horrible event, the Amritsar Massacre, and was nervous about visiting
the site. I was able to remain calm until I came to the well, which is now covered and called Martyr’s
Well. I looked inside and the tears welled up. The tragedy of that terrible day seemed to be
concentrated in that dark hole, and the horror and sadness filled me with feelings of grief.
Jallianwala Bagh is now beautifully kept, and honours the memory of the people who lost their lives
that day with statues, plaques, artwork and other memorials. At least this incident helped propel
India towards independence. And it is not forgotten.

Next on my list was The Old Market of Amritsar. I was eventually able to enjoy the lively and vibrant
atmosphere of central Amritsar. Together with my husband, we dove in and explored the narrow,
ancient laneways of the old city – where the atmosphere is palpable with history and culture … and
the smells of Amritsar’s famous foods make you instantly hungry. Amritsar is the acknowledged
culinary capital of Punjab, and that’s saying a lot as I think the food I ate while in Punjab was just
about the best I’ve had in my life.

The Next day, on my bucket list was the wagah border

ceremony. Wagah village is a place near Amritsar and is
the last village of India where India shares a border with
Pakistan. I took a cab to wagah at around 2 pm as I was
told by the hotel staff that ceremony would not start
before 5 but I should be there a bit early to avoid the rush.
One can see the Indian flag from kilometres away on the
way to the border.

At the border, Flags and hats with

India’s colours were being sold along the
admission queue, on the Indian side of the
border with Pakistan, where hundreds were
waiting for entry to the ceremony. Once inside
the stadium, building work to add more
seating capacity was visible on both sides
of the border. A sign of growing tourist
numbers, or a bid to outdo one
another? Loudspeakers on either side also bid to outdo one another. The flag bearers ran in and a
deafening cheer rose up from the crowds on both sides. Thirty minutes later, we heard a final
whistle, and saw high marching, and a blink-and-you’d-miss-it handshake between officers. The
gates between India and Pakistan clanged shut once again.

Perhaps the biggest surprise of this experience is that the ceremony takes place at all. Seventy years
on from the tragic events of Partition in India, relations between India and Pakistan are arguably as
tense as ever. That the line drawn down Punjab in August 1947 resulted in the largest migration
crisis in human history is a fact still omitted from too many history books. Knowing that more than
14 million people fled or left their homes when Partition was announced, and seeing that line, makes
the border experience even more real. Through the separating trees comes the harsh reminder that
Punjab was once happily one. The faces looking at each other from either side of the gate are
remarkably similar.