mUVe 3D DLP Printer Raspberry Pi 2 and nanoDLP

mUVe 3D DLP Printer, Raspberry Pi 2&3, and nanoDLP Instructions
Contents
Introduction.................................................................................................................................................4
Updating Current nanoDLP Installations or Installing Manually..................................................................4
Setting Up Your Pi........................................................................................................................................4
SD Card Preparation................................................................................................................................4
Firmware Installation...................................................................................................................................5
Connecting Your Components.....................................................................................................................6
nanoDLP Initial Setup and Usage.................................................................................................................7
Changing to the mUVe 3D nanoDLP Distribution....................................................................................8
Machine Setup.........................................................................................................................................9
Projector Calibration.............................................................................................................................10
Setting Up Print Profiles.........................................................................................................................11
Advanced GCode Peeling – Ensuring Print Success................................................................................14
Finalizing Your Settings..........................................................................................................................15

Preparing Models for Printing – Direct STL Upload!..............................................................................15
Configuring Slic3er/Plating Parts...........................................................................................................16
Printer Motion Control..........................................................................................................................20
Sending Parts to the Printer and Printing..............................................................................................21
nanoDLP Addition Setup and Information.................................................................................................23
nanoDLP 3D Model Support Generator.................................................................................................23
3D Printer Board Troubleshooting.........................................................................................................29
Projector On/Off Control.......................................................................................................................31
Platform Information.............................................................................................................................31
How to Get the Best Use of Your 3D Printer/FAQs/Troubleshooting........................................................33
TYPICAL PRINTING PREP/ROUTINES/CLEANUP......................................................................................33
What are some things that I can do to prepare my part for printing?...............................................33
What is the normal printing process?................................................................................................33
How do I Post-Process My Parts?......................................................................................................34
RESIN/VAT.............................................................................................................................................35
How often do I need to mix my resin?...............................................................................................35
What can I mix my resin with?...........................................................................................................35
Can I leave my resin in the vat?.........................................................................................................35
How do remove the resin from the vat?............................................................................................35
ACRYLIC CARE INSTRUCTIONS...........................................................................................................36
PRINTER ADJUSTMENT..........................................................................................................................36
How do I adjust the X/Y microns per pixel, or resolution?.................................................................36
How do I adjust the Z resolution?......................................................................................................37
You can't focus the projector to under ~70 microns. Is there a solution to this?..............................37
PRINTER MECHANICAL AND MOTION...................................................................................................37
I am connected to the printer in the control software, nanoDLP, but commands to move the Z axis
aren't causing the machine to move. What is causing this?..............................................................37
The motors move but they pulsate sometimes, what's causing this?...............................................38
When I try to move the Z axis I hear a buzzing noise and there isn't any movement, what's causing
this?...................................................................................................................................................38
I need to adjust my Z axis endstop, how do I do it?...........................................................................38
PRINT QUALITY TROUBLESHOOTING.....................................................................................................39
I see cured material in the bottom of the reservoir but nothing stuck to the build plate..................39
The part prints, but looks like it is losing detail..................................................................................39

PRINTER MAINTENANCE........................................................................................................................40
I Spilled Resin On My Aluminum and I Can’t Clean It Off...................................................................40
Introduction
It’s now possible to control your mUVe 3D DLP 3D printer from a Raspberry Pi 2 or 3, completely freeing
up your PC and its second display output. Below is a list of required items that you will need to have
before getting started. It is also important that you connect your projector and calibrate/focus the image
output and accurately measure your X/Y print area before proceeding. You can use the DLP Calibration
Assistant on our website, or any other techniques you wish to accomplish this.
-Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 Model B
-8GB Micro SD Card or larger
-SD adaptor so you can attach the SD card to your PC for formatting
-2A+ USB Power Supply and USB micro cable, 2.5A or more if using RS232 and/or a shutter.
-HDMI cable to connect your Pi to your Projector
-WiFi Adaptor for Raspberry Pi if you wish to run wirelessly, if using the RPi 3 you can use the built-in
adaptor. We highly recommend using wired networking only. Wireless can be unreliable.
Updating Current nanoDLP Installations or Installing Manually

nanoDLP has an auto-updater built-in and will show that it requires an update in the upper right corner
of the homepage of your printer, click update to run it anytime you see it. To do so manually from a
command line follow the instructions below.
Simply connect to the Raspberry Pi 2 or 3 via terminal, use a program such as "Putty" to get connected,
the run the following:
(wget http://www.nanodlp.com/nanodlp.tar.gz -O - | tar -C /home/pi -xz);cd /home/pi/printer;sudo

./setup.sh muve3d
Answer the prompts to your preferences and upon exiting the installer the Pi will reboot.
Setting Up Your Pi
SD Card Preparation
The first step is to install the operating system for the Raspberry Pi 2/3 and prepare it for the software.
We will use Raspbian as it is one of the most popular and also the compatible operating system for
nanoDLP. We will have a downloadable image as soon as possible, this will save a good deal of time with
setup however the download size will be very large. The fastest method for those with slower internet
connections will always be the manual setup process. Once you’ve done it once or twice, it will only
takes 20 minutes or so to complete the entire process, including calibrating the printer.
Use the following link for instructions on installing SD card images, each operating system is different:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/installation/installing-images/
Download the nanoDLP SD Image from this location:
http://www.nanodlp.com/download/
Once you have your SD card formatted and the Operating System image loaded to it, insert it into the
Raspberry Pi 2/3.
Firmware Installation
nanoDLP communicates with the Arduino to keep layers properly timed and in-order. This
communication required a change to the DLP firmware. If you downloaded and installed your firmware
before 1/10/2016 you MUST install this firmware for the printer to work with nanoDLP. So before you
disconnect your DLP printer from your PC, do this one last step.
The firmware can be found here: https://github.com/mUVe3D/Marlin-mUVe1DLP-Running
Instructions for installation: http://www.muve3d.net/press/supportsources/muve-1-software/
Once the firmware is installed you can proceed to wiring up your system.
Connecting Your Components
Wire the HDMI to your projector HDMI, connect the USB from the RAMPS to the Raspberry Pi USB
header. If you’re setting up a RS232 adaptor, connect it after you’ve setup your RAMPS connection. This
will simplify the process.
Once the projector is configured and powered on, apply power to the Raspberry Pi. You can now go back
to your PC and type the IP address of the printer into your preferred web browser. You can also use your
tablet or cellphone if on the same home network.
*SHUTTER NOTES* The shutter was attached to the RAMPS in our printer systems years ago, but we
now have the added option of wiring a servo to the Raspberry Pi. Simply wire the servo to its own 5V
power power supply, or to the Pi if you have a high amperage PSU, and run the signal pin of the servo to
one of the free GPIO pins on the Pi. Then you can configure the nanoDLP software to use whatever pin
you selected. We used GPIO 14/physical pin 8. If you have a low enough amperage servo/high power Pi
power supply, you can take power from pins 4 and 6, 5V and Ground. This allows you to plug your servo
connector directly into the RPi, the servo may need to have the power and ground pin swapped inside
the connector if it has not already been done.
nanoDLP Initial Setup and Usage
nanoDLP is easier than ever to find and manage on your home PC. Just open your network browser, and
look for it. UPnP will make sure that it’s discoverable and that you can browse right to the printer web
page by right clicking on it!
Right-Click and select “View Device Webpage” or whatever terminology your Operating system lists.
Changing to the mUVe 3D nanoDLP Distribution

Once the page opens in your browser, append the following to the address so that we can change the
version to the mUVe 3D version of nanoDLP.
/printer/distro/change
So if the address was 192.168.1.100 you would enter:
Http://192.168.1.100/printer/distro/change
Once on the page press the “Change to mUVe 3D Version” and then continue. If you already installed
manually using the instructions for command line installation then you’re already setup with the proper
version.
Once rebooted go back to the Setup tab and look to “Tools” from there restore the machine defaults
and the system will reboot again. Once rebooted it will have default profiles, setups, etc, all preloaded
for your use.
Thankfully the folks at nanoDLP have preloaded the machine settings as well as the print profiles for our
use. So there’s no major setup aside from sizing and focusing your projector, and telling nanoDLP the
exact microns per pixel. We’ll still explain the “Setup” page for those that wish to go the manual route.
To restore the default profiles, go to the tools tab and use the restore button. This is always
recommended for major version changes
Machine Setup
You can see that we don’t use the movement GPIO’s so they are disabled. We have however setup the
3D Printer Board section, USB/Serial, ASCII Encoding, No Wait Pin, /dev/ttyACM0 port path, 115200
baud rate, and the start and end GCode below are the only printer requirements.
GCode – Bootup
G90
G92 Z[[CurrentPosition]]
GCode – Resume Print

G90
G92 Z[[CurrentPosition]]
G1 Z[[LayerPosition]]
[[WaitForDoneMessage]]
[[PositionSet [[LayerPosition]]]]
GCode – Start of Print

M650 D5 S5 R1
G28
G90
[[PositionSet 0]]
!!!NOTE!!! If you wish to omit the above G28 line be sure to manually home the printer before starting
a print. The process is as follows, omit the G28 from the Start of Print GCODE, Home the printer
manually before starting a print, click the “Disable Motors” button and make any necessary
adjustments to the printer build plate home position by hand, finally start the print. Using this
method the printer will not home at the start of print and the manually adjusted home position will
be preserved. This can be especially useful if you’re having trouble adjusting the endstop switch. If
you go this route you will never need to pay much attention to it’s “fine” adjustment and can simply
ensure the endstop keeps the build plate from colliding with the reservoir.!!!NOTE!!!
GCode – End of Print

M651
G1 Z{[[LayerPosition]]+5}
[[PositionSet{[[LayerPosition]]+5}]]
M84
In this area you can also define a projector mask, as well as setup any RPi connected shutter servos you
might have.
Projector Calibration
Use our DLP Calibration Assistant to size your projector output to the reservoir if you haven’t already.
Instructions Here: http://www.muve3d.net/press/2015/11/10/dlp-calibration-assistant/
To assist in the sizing process you can also browse to your nanoDLP printer and go to the Projector
Calibration tab. Select the “Display” button on projector boundaries to place a thin rectangular line at
the projection extents. You can also control your Raspberry Pi Shutter on the right, or your RAMPS
shutter with the buttons below.
If you can’t get the output focused to an exact micron setting, i.e. 50, 75, or 100 micron, just measure an
axis and divide the number of pixels into that axis. So if the long 1920 pixel axis measures out to be
120mm, dividing 120 by 1920 yields .0625mm per pixel. Or 62.5 microns. You will use this number to
define your printing profiles. If you managed to get a perfect 50, 75, or 100 you can use the profiles as
they stand.
Measured distance in mm\Number of pixels = mm per pixel
Setting Up Print Profiles

Click the Printer Profiles tab. Profiles need to be created and X/Y micron settings set before uploading
models to the printer, X/Y micron settings changed after a part is uploaded, will need to have the parts
uploaded again to reflect the changes.
Depending on how you have your servo connected or configure you can choose the profile that is closest
to the X/Y microns that you measured in the previous step, all the profile names describe the settings in
them. To make a new profile using the settings that are closest, click the clone button on the profile you
wish to make the new version from.
On the next page you will be displayed a large number of settings. Enter your X/Y resolution from the
previous step into the X/Y Resolution area. You can also adjust your cure times and layer thicknesses for
any given profile in this section. In the example shown on the next page we are using a Futaba servo
connected to the RAMPS board. So we have custom GCode in the “Before Each Layer” section to address
it. We also have other custom GCodes to handle the peel process. All of the GCode and layer cure time
settings can be changed and saved REAL TIME. So if you’re overcuring a print, just go drop the layer cure
time and save the profile to try and recover.
Advanced GCode Peeling – Ensuring Print Success

In the above “Before Each Layer” you can’t see all the code. It’s pasted below for your convenience as
we’re going to explain it in-full.
M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)*2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)*4)}

M651
G4 P1000
G1 Z[[LayerPosition]]
M114
[[PositionSet [[LayerPosition]]]]
“After Each Layer” Code:
[[PositionChange [[ZLiftDistance]]]]
Most importantly here, we have the ability to specify changes for code based on certain information
about the print. Specifically, we can increase the peel speed of a print based on the layer we’re on. In
the future we hope to use the advanced features of nanoDLP to ensure automatic peel settings. Since
nanoDLP calculates the printed and non-printed surface area of each layer, we can effectively calculate
how fast or slow we should peel based on the potential forces at play. This advanced feature is going to
take some testing and should be available in the coming months. You can test now if you wish however!
The variables are listed and are ripe for the picking!
Let’s take a look at M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)*2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)*4)}
When the statement section in orange is true, it will register a value of 1. Which can then be used
mathematically. When it’s not true it’s value is 0, and therefore anything multiplied by 0 becomes 0 and
is ignored.
In this statement we’re saying that if the layer number is under 30, that we’re going to do some
additional calculation. This particular statement will yield:
Layers under 30: M650 D5 S1

Layers over 30: M650 D3 S5
The M650 code is highly configurable as well as a few other codes. See the options available below:
M650 D P R S T-
D - Set Distance in mm - Set to 0 to remove the peel

R - Set Speed in mm/s - Retract speed of the peel
P - Pause in milliseconds - Set to 0 to ignore pause
S - Peel move speed, mm/s - 2mm/s max unless max speed for Z and E axis changed in
configuration.h
T - Tilt option for post print resin draining. Default 20 mm, values sent in mm
Example: M650 D2 H0.1 P500 R3 S2 T10- Peel distance 2mm, layer height .1mm/100
micron, pause .5 seconds, peel speed 2 mm/s, retract speed 3mm/s, Post Print Tilt
10mm
M651 - Initiate the peel move with the settings chosen
M653 - Execute tilt, this should be placed in your end of print GCode
M654 - Restore from tilt, this is sent manually to place the build stage back at a
horizontal position
So in that last example before we cut to the codes, we’re speeding up the peel as well as lowering its
distance after the 30th layer.
Layers under 30: M650 D5 S1

Layers over 30: M650 D3 S5
You can use this technique to save tons of time on your prints. Just don’t get too aggressive! Peel forces
can cause fragile parts to break during printing.
Use the block of code above, as well as your layer height, X/Y microns, and cure times to make usable
profiles for the mUVe 3D DLP printer.
Finalizing Your Settings
Once you have your settings as you’d like them to be, press the submit button at the bottom of the
screen to save your profile. And don’t forget to give it a NEW name if you cloned it!
Preparing Models for Printing – Direct STL Upload!

If you need to add support material to any of your parts before printing. Please do so using AutoDesk
MeshMixer. It has automatic settings for DLP printer part alignment as well as support generation that
outpaces much of the other free options we have available. Once parts are prepped for printing you can
upload the Binary STL to nanoDLP directly! nanoDLP has inbuilt slicing and can handle parts over 100MB
in size with ease. If you wish to use your PC for slicing, or need to plate multiple parts onto one build
surface, please proceed to the next set of instructions.
Configuring Slic3er/Plating Parts
Typically, single parts prints are for tests. Most folks do prints with multiple parts however. So we need
to “plate” them together before we send them to the printer. For plating and slicing we use Slic3r, it can
be downloaded at slic3r.org. If you’re not plating multiple parts then you can directly import your STL
files into nanoDLP! Just skip this step and go to the “Plates” page of nanoDLP and import a part.
Once slic3r is installed, we need to configure a minimal number of settings in order to make the output
from the program appropriate for DLP printing. First click on the “Print Setting” tab at the top of the
screen and set the layer height to the same as your intended Z layer height in your nanoDLP slicing
profile. In this case we used .1mm for our 100 micron Z layer height.
Next we need to set the bed dimensions so that the preview window is useful to us, and the parts
output at the correct scale, so this is very important! This will only impact the SVG slicing however, if
you are just using Slic3r to plate parts together and export a new STL you can proceed to the end of
the Slic3r instructions. At this time we do not recommend importing SVG slices, there are better
options that require less work. If you must, the SVG option is still available.
Click on the “Printer Settings” tab and then click the “Set” button for Bed Shape. Then enter your
measurements from your projector calibration process.
Now the preview window should look appropriate:

To add a part, click the “Add…” button and select your 3D models. Use the tools in the preview window
to arrange the parts to fit on the print bed. You can arrange as many parts as you can fit. Finally press
the “Export STL…” button at the top right and save the plate.
From here you can upload the STL generated by Slic3r to nanoDLP, or if doing SVG, the last step is to
export the SVG for importing to nanoDLP. Select the “File” menu and select “Slice to SVG” to bring up
the file selection dialog box. Select the STL file you just saved and select “Open” to bring up the save
dialog. Pick a new file name for the SVG file and press “Save”
Congratulations! You’ve successfully prepared your printer as well as prepared your parts for printing.
You can now load the SVG files into nanoDLP for printing!
Printer Motion Control

The Z Axis Calibration tab holds all of the controls for the main functions of printer motion and
maintenance.
On the left you have buttons to:
HOME PRINTER Z AXIS: You need to use this button before you can move the printer Z axis in any way.
The endstop must register after the button is pressed and the axis come to a stop.
TURN MOTOR POWER ON/OFF: Use these buttons to turn the power to the motors on and off. Useful if
you need to manually turn a leadscrew by hand to make an adjustment.
RESIN DRAIN TILT/RETURN: Use these buttons to drain the resin from the back of your build plate and
printed part after printing.
CUSTOM BUTTONS: You can add custom buttons to any page from the Setup page of nanoDLP. You can
name the button, choose its color, and add any command or system call you wish. This pretty much
opens up customization of the interface for anything you desire.
Sending Parts to the Printer and Printing
Browse back to your printer and select the “Plates” tab. Click the “Add” button to upload a new SVG,
SLC, STL or ZIP to the printer. Newer features including “reslicing” and “3D view” have recently been
added.
On the Add Plate screen define a name for this plate, select which slicing/printing profile to use from the
dropdown, select your SVG file from your local PC, and press the “Submit” button.
The printer will now begin slicing your project, this could take some time depending on how many slices
exist. Thankfully the software can multitask so you can start printing right away!
Go back to the “Plates” tab and select which project to print, press the “Print From Start” button to print
your parts.
Your printer is now using nanoDLP!

nanoDLP Addition Setup and Information
nanoDLP 3D Model Support Generator
nanoDLP has an amazing and rich feature list already, but none might be more welcome than the new
internal support generation system. This system loads from your Raspberry Pi device that is running
nanoDLP, however uses your local computer and browser resources to generate support material and
do rendering of models. This means that you have a lot of power in a small package. Best of all the tool
can immediately send your customized model to the plating system for onboard slicing as well. It’s truly
an all-in-one solution for DLP based SLA 3D printing.
From the Plates tab of nanoDLP there is an option called “Add with Support” which we can use to
upload our local models, generate support, and then send them back to the plating system for slicing.
You can even export the STL back to your PC for later use.
To load a file, simple press the “Choose File” button and select the source STL from your local PC. Once
you open the file it should load into your browser window as shown below. From the Layout View that
we’re currently on we need to adjust the height of the model that we’d like to add support to. The field
to the left of the “Move” button will do just that. Since we’re only worried about vertical position there
is only one field to adjust. Once you enter the height at which you’d like the model to sit, press the
button and the model will move vertically.
To orient the model’s rotation before adding support, left-click and hold on the object with your mouse
while moving it around.
To Pan the view around the model, right-click and hold while moving the mouse.
Before Repositioning:
After Repositioning:
From here we can safely begin our support material additions. To start the process press the “Support
View” button from the menu.
There are 2 basic options for support already loaded into the generator. One for model to floor, and one
for model to model. Model to floor will generate pillars with the specified settings that connect the base
of the scene, to the model where it is being clicked. Model to model support will generate pillars with
the specified settings that connect with smaller tips and are meant for model stacking, where one model
is vertically connected to another.
In this screenshot we’ve created a “Model To Floor” Support Named “mUVe 3D Standard” and it has the
following settings.
Head Diameter: 0.5mm – Diameter of the top of the pillar, the portion that will protrude into the model.
Head Length: 1.5mm – Length of the section that will transition from the main pillar body, down to the
tapered tip that is defined in the Head Diameter.
Type: Cone – Cone or Sphere tips to protrude into the model.
Penetration: 0.2mm – Depth that the head of the pillar will insert into the model surface.
Base Diameter: 4mm – Diameter of the base of the support pillar that touches the print surface.
Base Depth: 2mm – The thickness of the base pillar. In our case here our, we have a base that is 4mm in
diameter and 2mm thick. It should give a nice solid attachment point for even the most fragile parts.
Body Diameter: 2mm – The diameter of the main body of the support pillar. The non-base, non-tip,
straight section of the support. Once we’ve made our choices we press the “Add Type” button to see it
added to the list above for use.
Simply click on it and ensure it is highlighted in red and then start clicking on the model in areas that
need support added.
Controls for this area are very similar to the main page where we loaded the model.
-Left-click and hold to rotate the view around the model.

-Right-click and hold to pan the view around the model.
-Single Left-Click the model to add a support pillar.
-Change support type by clicking a different option from the list.
-Remove supports by hovering over the support pillar from the list on the right side of the screen, click
the name of the pillar and it will disappear.
-Press “Export STL” to save the model to your desktop
-Press the “Save” button when you’re ready to start plating and slicing.
Assuming you’re done adding support and have pressed the “Save” button, you should now see the
“Plates” screen and a project that looks incomplete. We now need to press the “Edit” button on that
plate to make some selections and get it moving.
On the edit screen we need to give the plate a name, and pick a printing profile at the very least. Then
press the “Submit” button.
The slicing system should now take over and being processing your project for printing. If at any time the
process hangs, restart the system and the slicing engine should recover. If not please let us know and we
can submit the bug information to the folks at nanoDLP.
This support generation system is still an early release so please expect a few bugs from time to time.
The more feedback we receive from you all the faster they’ll be resolved.
3D Printer Board Troubleshooting
Sometimes the port names and locations can change on USB connected devices so if you’re finding that
when you connect to the printer you can’t home or move the Z axis. To verify you aren’t able to connect
first go to the terminal screen in nanoDLP and see if there is any connection or motion data being
shown. You should see something similar to the below. If it’s blank then you aren’t connecting and need
to address the potential issues.
-Is the latest DLP Firmware loaded?

-Is the latest nanoDLP installed?
-Is nanoDLP configured for the mUVe 3D DLP Printer?
If yes to all then verify the following on the settings page:

Baud Rate: 115200
USB/Serial Port Address: /dev/ttyACM0 - could also be ACM1, 2, 3…., it could even be /dev/ttyUSB0 - or
USB1, 2, 3….. If you save and the settings don’t stick try the next number in line and try to save again.
Once you find the correct port it will save successfully. If you also have a projector controller be sure to
connect the printer board and test it first. Once you have printer motion it will be much easier to find
the projector controller port. If the printer is ACM0 the projector controller is likely ACM1 or USB0. If the
printer board is USB0, the projector controller is likely ACM0 or USB1.
Once the settings are entered, and the setting saved, go back to the terminal screen to verify you have
connectivity. If not, keep checking the port numbers until you find another that works. If you don’t then
there is a wiring or firmware installation issue on the Arduino, or the Arduino is simply not responding
and needs to be replaced.
Projector On/Off Control
Adding nanoDLP projector control is easy if you’re using an RS232 to USB adaptor. Simply plug the
adaptor into the Raspberry Pi and projector and reboot. Be sure you can control the printer before
working on this setup. If not go to the previous step and get the printer board and motion control
working first. Then proceed.
Go to the Setup page of nanoDLP and configure the projector connection information with the data
below:
Projector Connection: USB/Serial Port – Binary
Baud Rate: 115200
USB/Serial Port Address: /dev/ttyUSB0 - could also be USB1, 2, 3…., if you save and the settings don’t
stick try the next number in line and try to save again. Once you find the correct port it will save
successfully.
Projector On: \x06\x14\x00\x04\x00\x34\x11\x00\x00\x5D
Projector Off: \x06\x14\x00\x04\x00\x34\x11\x01\x00\x5E
Once the settings are entered, the nanoDLP system will automatically turn the projector on and off for
you at the start and end of each print. If you wish to manually turn it on or off, simply use the buttons on
the Projector Calibration page.
Platform Information
By default the nanoDLP system can’t keep track of where the Z axis is without a feedback mechanism.
Currently when the M114 command is sent via terminal the “Current” platform position will be updated
on the platform tab. We are working with the firmware to make this feature more of an automatic
response however for now you’ll have to add M114 to a new line in your current slicing profile between
each layer change. This will allow the software to keep tabs during the print, ensuring that the Z axis
position is always being reported properly. This is also why it is important to home before each print.
How to Get the Best Use of Your 3D Printer/FAQs/Troubleshooting
TYPICAL PRINTING PREP/ROUTINES/CLEANUP
What are some things that I can do to prepare my part for printing?
 Check the material data sheets and recommended settings first. This is going to tell you the
most about how to prepare the part.
 Hollow parts to 2-4mm walls using AutoDesk Meshmixer for less resin waste. MakerJuice resins
are plenty strong for most parts to be hollowed and high-end premium resins may require even
less. This will depend on the overall material strength and again the resin manufacturer
recommended settings.
 Supports should be added using AutoDesk Meshmixer. The auto settings for DLP printing are
acceptable but usually are more than needed for most parts. The mUVe 3D printer lineup can
print a 70 degree overhang unsupported in most cases and with most resins. So keep support to
a minimum when possible, it’s also quite easy to make your own support with this software
using the mouse to selectively add and remove support pillars.
 Slic3r is an excellent program for merging multiple parts into a single print, or “plating” your
parts for printing.
 Export files as STL binary for nanoDLP, or SVG slices but be sure your slicer settings match your
print profile settings if using SVG.
What is the normal printing process?
Printing with nanoDLP or Creation Workshop is a simple process that follows a series of steps that will
ensure you don’t have any machine crashes and will minimize any possible print failures. At this point
we’re going to assume the part has already been adjusted and setup with any supports that might be
necessary. This part has also been uploaded to the printer or queue for printing. We are also assuming
that the “G28” homing command has been removed from your “Start of Print” GCode. You do not want
to home again at the start of the print after completing this entire process. It will undo some of your
work.
For best success of first layer adhesion and print success use the following routine:
 Ensure resin is well mixed in the reservoir and that there are no pieces of cured material or
debris in the uncured liquid. If there are you can use the “blank white” projection in nanoDLP to
cure a large rectangle in the liquid and try to “catch” the floaters in a cured resin chip.
 Ensure the build plate is flat and free of any cured resin, then wipe it clean to ensure no residues
will prevent a good first layer cure.
 Home the printer Z axis.
 Disable the Motors.

 Remove the Projector Protector.
 Turn the leadscrew from the coupler connection by hand until the build plate is gently touching
the reservoir bottom. You do not want it to be pressing hard into the bottom, only enough that
you can see a film of resin between the build plate and the reservoir bottom when looking from
below.
 Start your print!
 Once printing is complete you can lift the build plate using the Z axis motion buttons if needed.
 Restore the Projector Protector.
 Tilt the build plate to drain any collected resin if needed.
 Remove the Build Plate using the Thumbscrews.
 Remove the printed part very gently using a sharp thin spatula. Move slowly and try to release
all edges before lifting as your part can easily be broken if it is small and too much force is used.
 Start over at the beginning when you’re ready to print again!
How do I Post-Process My Parts?
Most resins require post curing to finalize the chemical bonds and completely form the polymers that
were initialized with the 3D printing process. The ways that parts can be cleaned will vary depending on
the material. Most materials can be cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, Simple Green, and/or
water. There are several guidelines that need to be followed:
 Always use gloves, chemical safe storage containers, and when necessary eye and breathing
safeguards. Most resins don’t require a respirator because of their low toxicity, but if you’re
getting into experimentation always be sure to check the material safety data sheets.
 Never wash parts in the sink or dump spent cleaning liquids down the drain, evaporate any
solvents and then cure the remaining resins in the container until they can be scraped out and
thrown away as solids.
 Once a part is rinsed, try spraying it with compressed air until dry. This typically helps the
surface quality of the part once it is finally post-cured.
 Post-Curing typically requires a UV light source that isn’t too intense. We offer them in our
store, there are a ton of options online, and you can always use the sun on a bright day if the
resin manufacturer says it’s safe. Some resins will heat too quickly outside because the light is
too intense and it can cause fractures and part breakdown. Post curing times will depend on the
part depth as well as the resin manufacturers needs/requirements for the material.
For MakerJuice products we use a small parts cleaning device from Harbor Freight, they’re about
$60 and have an internal pump and nozzle that is effective for cleaning out resins. An easy way to
get excess resin off our printed parts is to fill this machine with a couple gallons of a mixture of
Simple Green and water, nothing flammable! Then you blow the excess liquid away with
compressed air and let dry before curing in a UV Oven.
RESIN/VAT
How often do I need to mix my resin?
Not all resins require mixing, most resins with bright colors or deep opacity will require it however. We
supply our printers with MakerJuice SubSF resin, which is quite deeply pigmented and needs frequent
stirring to maintain performance. Resin starts to separate over time and needs to be mixed so the crucial
components used in curing don't separate and the pigment doesn't settle. The latest version of SubSF
resin should stay mixed for quite a long time without separation but we still find it best to stir at least
once every 6-8 hours. Or at least before starting each new print.
What can I mix my resin with?
Growing in popularity is the silicone kitchen spatula. It's important the spatula be silicone and not
another rubber material, other materials will quickly melt under exposure to the resin. Use a silicone
spatula to gently wipe the floor of the FlexVat and lift the settled pigmentation. Keep mixing for one to
two minutes and ensure the material is evenly stirred before starting your next print. If more than 30
minutes pass before you get your print started, stir again. Making sure again to scrape the bottom of the
reservoir. Settled resin will prevent curing and cause failed prints.
Can I leave my resin in the vat?
Yes, but long term storage should not be considered. Leaks can take place over time, and the resin
shouldn't be exposed to air and potential debris for longer than necessary.
How do remove the resin from the vat?
Using the chemical safe syringes is one method of removing resin. Be sure it is fully mixed before trying
to transfer it back to the bottle. It can also be helpful to use a funnel and cheesecloth or strainer when
returning the resin. This will prevent any accumulated cured resin from being poured back into your
clean supply. If you need to pour out the resin, remove the FlexVat, pick a corner to pour from and place
a piece of papertowel under that corner to catch any drips, then pour back into the container.
ACRYLIC CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Follow these to ensure you don't ruin your acrylic FlexVat walls when cleaning. If you have metal walls
you can wash them in the sink after cleaning the resin off them using isopropyl alcohol. NEVER user
isopropyl alcohol on acrylic.
The best way to clean acrylic is with a specialty cleaning product such as Novus No.1 or Brillianize.
NEVER use window cleaning fluids with ammonia (such as Windex or Formula 409), gasoline, denatured
alcohol, carbon tetrachloride, or acetone, which will cause the acrylic to craze with minute cracks. A
mild solution of soap or detergent and water can also be used safely.
Begin by gently blowing away any loose dust or dirt from the acrylic’s surface.
Apply the specialty cleaning product (or soap and water solution) with a dampened non-abrasive/non-
contaminating/lint-free soft cloth, microfiber cloth or cellulose sponge.
Rinse well with clear, clean water.
Blot dry with a chamois, damp cellulose sponge or microfiber cloth to prevent water spotting.
Note: Grease, oil and tar may be removed with a good grade of hexane, naptha or kerosene. Be sure to
wash these solvents off quickly to prevent damage to the acrylic.
PRINTER ADJUSTMENT
How do I adjust the X/Y microns per pixel, or resolution?
Moving the projector on the DLP printer will allow adjustment of the X/Y resolution. Move the projector
further away increasing the projected image size to lower the resolution, but increase build area. Move
the projector closer making the projected image smaller to increase the resolution, but lower build area.
Once a build area has been decided upon, measure the size of the projection with a metric ruler and
enter the values into the software to calibrate it for use.
We provide starting profiles for nanoDLP and Creation Workshop on our website, preinstalled for
nanoDLP, so that you can use these in combination with our DLP Printer Calibration Assistant to get the
output resolution you are looking for. In nanoDLP the X/Y resolution is entered into the slicing profile.
When the plate is generated from a file in nanoDLP the entered X/Y micron value is used for making
proper scale. You cannot adjust the X/Y resolution of a print profile in nanoDLP after uploading plates.
All exiting plates need to be deleted and recreated if X/Y micron settings changes are made.
How do I adjust the Z resolution?
This axis is completely mechanical and software addressed. Increasing or decreasing the resolution is as
simple as adjusting values in the software for layer height, and recalibrating layer cure times for the new
layer slice settings. If you’re using Slic3er then the settings will need to be adjusted in that program. If
you are uploading STL files directly to nanoDLP then you adjust the layer height inside the print profile
before uploading the STL to nanoDLP. You cannot adjust Z layer height after uploading a plate to
nanoDLP, if you do then existing plates need to be resliced or deleted and uploaded anew.
You can't focus the projector to under ~70 microns. Is there a solution to this?
The lenses in a projector have a limited range and cannot focus beyond certain points without
assistance. Add-on Close-Focus lenses will give you more range on the short side of the projector throw.
So if you want to print ultra-high resolution then these optional lenses are a must. We offer them for
sale in our store, or you can find appropriate close-focus lenses without UV coating at many online
retailers.
PRINTER MECHANICAL AND MOTION
I am connected to the printer in the control software, nanoDLP, but commands to move the Z
axis aren't causing the machine to move. What is causing this?
There are a couple potential causes. First, the printer can't move until it has been homed and the
endstop engaged. This is how the printer determines the location of each axis so that it can ensure
accurate motion. So each time the printer is connected to, or the power cycled, it must be homed to the
endstop before trying to move any other axis. With newer setups of nanoDLP you will only need to
home once per boot, as position is kept in memory and then relayed to the RAMPS at boot. Still, it is
best practice to home the printer before starting a print.
Second, if you are trying to home the printer but that doesn't work, you likely have an issue with the
endstop. The printer detects the endstops for each axis before trying to move it, if the endstop can't be
found it will refuse to move. So check your endstop wiring as well as where you have it plugged into on
the control board. Make sure it's in the Z- port.
The motors move but they pulsate sometimes, what's causing this?
The motors are driven by the motor driver chips on the control board. These chips each have their own
power adjustment screw, if turned up too high the chip can overheat causing the thermal protection to
temporarily disable it until it cools enough to turn back on. If you notice this pulsing taking place, then
you'll need to adjust the POT on the motor driver in a counter-clockwise direction with a ceramic
screwdriver until it stops.
When I try to move the Z axis I hear a buzzing noise and there isn't any movement, what's
causing this?
This is basically the opposite of the previous question. In this case the motor driver isn't turned up high
enough and the motors don't have enough power to move. It's also possible you have a mechanical
bind, so remove power and see how hard it is to turn the leadscrews by hand before turning the chips
up. If it's easy to move the screws with your bare hand, proceed with turning up the power on the motor
driver using the POT and a ceramic screwdriver. Turn very slowly in a clockwise direction until the axis
moves freely when commanded.
I need to adjust my Z axis endstop, how do I do it?
Adjusting the rough position of the Z endstop is quite easy. Simply attach the build plate and reservoir
and lower the Z axis by hand using the couplers on the leadscrews until the build plate is gently touching
the reservoir bottom. From here loosen your endstop and adjust it so that it just barely “clicks” in the
position that you’re currently in. Use caution here, if you print with thick resins you could accidentally
bottom out the Z axis before the endstop gets depressed. If want to err to either direction it should be
that the endstop gets depressed too early.
PRINT QUALITY TROUBLESHOOTING
I see cured material in the bottom of the reservoir but nothing stuck to the build plate.
Possible Causes:
· The build plate isn’t being lowered into the reservoir all the way to the bottom, the build plate isn’t
level, or there is something obstructing the build plate from lowering.
· The layer cure times for the initial layers isn’t high enough and isn’t allowing the resin to grip the build
plate. This is also possible for the print as a whole if you are losing detail or seeing breakage.
· The resin isn’t well enough mixed and pigment has settled causing curing issues.
Tips:
· Home the build plate and then use the motor control buttons on the machine control tab of Creation
Workshop or nanoDLP to disable the motors. Next, manually turn the leadscrews from the coupler with
your hands to lower the build plate. Look at the build plate from below the reservoir and see if the plate
looks level. When homed you should easily be able to see the build plate features through the resin.
· Increase initial layer cure times.
· Keep the resin well mixed.
The part prints, but looks like it is losing detail.
Possible Causes:
· The projector isn’t properly focused, or has lost focus.
· Layer cure times are too high, causing overshoot and overcure. Or they are too low and causing
undercure and loss of print.
Tips:
· Be sure you focus the projector while no resin is in the vat, and using a piece of white paper. Once the
focus has been adjusted you can even place a small piece of scotch tape over the focus and zoom
wheels of the projector to hold them in-place.
· Adjust layer cure times up and down depending on if you see the signs of overcure or undercure.
PRINTER MAINTENANCE
I Spilled Resin On My Aluminum and I Can’t Clean It Off
Lots of resins have different cleanup methods but you basically will need a solvent to displace the resin
from the surface of the Aluminum. For the Pro+ models with the large Aluminum panels the cleanup can
be even more important. Ideally you will use Isopropyl Alcohol or Acetone to clean the bare surfaces.
Use solvent free materials for any plastics or the reservoir components. Usually a paper towel soaked in
the cleaning agent wiped across the surface will be all that is needed.

mUVe 3D DLP Printer Raspberry Pi 2 and nanoDLP

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mUVe 3D DLP Printer, Raspberry Pi 2&3, and nanoDLP Instructions

Finalizing Your Settings..........................................................................................................................15

The part prints, but looks like it is losing detail..................................................................................39

-8GB Micro SD Card or larger

-HDMI cable to connect your Pi to your Projector

Updating Current nanoDLP Installations or Installing Manually

(wget http://www.nanodlp.com/nanodlp.tar.gz -O - | tar -C /home/pi -xz);cd /home/pi/printer;sudo

Download the nanoDLP SD Image from this location:

The firmware can be found here: https://github.com/mUVe3D/Marlin-mUVe1DLP-Running

Instructions for installation: http://www.muve3d.net/press/supportsources/muve-1-software/

Connecting Your Components

nanoDLP Initial Setup and Usage

Changing to the mUVe 3D nanoDLP Distribution

So if the address was 192.168.1.100 you would enter:

GCode – Resume Print

GCode – Start of Print

GCode – End of Print

Instructions Here: http://www.muve3d.net/press/2015/11/10/dlp-calibration-assistant/

Measured distance in mm\Number of pixels = mm per pixel

Setting Up Print Profiles

Advanced GCode Peeling – Ensuring Print Success

M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)*2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)*4)}

“After Each Layer” Code:

Let’s take a look at M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)*2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)*4)}

Layers under 30: M650 D5 S1

D - Set Distance in mm - Set to 0 to remove the peel

R - Set Speed in mm/s - Retract speed of the peel

P - Pause in milliseconds - Set to 0 to ignore pause

M651 - Initiate the peel move with the settings chosen

Layers under 30: M650 D5 S1

Finalizing Your Settings

Preparing Models for Printing – Direct STL Upload!

Configuring Slic3er/Plating Parts

Now the preview window should look appropriate:

Printer Motion Control

On the left you have buttons to:

Sending Parts to the Printer and Printing

Your printer is now using nanoDLP!

nanoDLP Addition Setup and Information

nanoDLP 3D Model Support Generator

Type: Cone – Cone or Sphere tips to protrude into the model.

-Left-click and hold to rotate the view around the model.

-Right-click and hold to pan the view around the model.

-Single Left-Click the model to add a support pillar.

-Change support type by clicking a different option from the list.

-Press “Export STL” to save the model to your desktop

3D Printer Board Troubleshooting

-Is the latest DLP Firmware loaded?

If yes to all then verify the following on the settings page:

Baud Rate: 115200

Projector On/Off Control

Projector Connection: USB/Serial Port – Binary

Baud Rate: 115200

Projector On: \x06\x14\x00\x04\x00\x34\x11\x00\x00\x5D

Projector Off: \x06\x14\x00\x04\x00\x34\x11\x01\x00\x5E

How to Get the Best Use of Your 3D Printer/FAQs/Troubleshooting

TYPICAL PRINTING PREP/ROUTINES/CLEANUP

What is the normal printing process?

 Disable the Motors.

How do I Post-Process My Parts?

How often do I need to mix my resin?

What can I mix my resin with?

Can I leave my resin in the vat?

How do remove the resin from the vat?

M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)4)}

Let’s take a look at M650 D{([[LayerNumber]]<30)2+3} S{5-(([[LayerNumber]]<30)4)}