aes ~ VOLUME XXXVI = ©, GEOGRAPHIC ,. MAGAZINE. |: OCTOBER, 1919 ” CONTENTS A Vanishing People of the South Seas 25 Muastmtlons JOHN W, CHURCH A Mexican Land of Canaan 17 IMusteations FREDERICK SIMPICH Wild Ducks as Winter Guests in a City Park 11 Thustzations JOSEPH DIXON Curious and Characteristic Customs of Central African Tribes 35 Iluatratioin BE. TORDAY Tt ana ee PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C. 2 | f ed FE Brfy eal oy |VoL. XXXVI, No. 4 WASHINGTON OctoBER, 1919 | THE » | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC | MAGAZINE A VANISHING PEOPL, Or THE SOUTH SEAS ‘The ‘Tragic Bate of the Marquesan Cannibals, Noted for ‘Their Warlike Courage nd Physical Beauty By Jons WL Crurer LRER thousand yetrs of mre co n horde of savages drove their War canoes ashore on & group of tuids lying in the South |acife between 8° and tr” south latitde and 138° ind 141° west longituide. Who they were or why they came; what of religion, custom, and tradition they brought with them on their remark alle journey across the ecenn, remains almost entirely hidden, probably forever, in the misty realm of conjecture. ‘That they formed part of that hegira from the As hipelage which peo- pled so many isiands of the canmils established: bie- « been asserted that Marquesans were the first of the wan- jo Teave their native land. : trated the link ng between all the Polynesians ine hiting the South Macitic fram Hawaii to the Malay Peninsula, and offers: the interesting suggestion that Hiva, the na- tive title for the Marqucsas and incer- porated in the names of three of the gronp (Nokuhiva, Fatuhiva, and Hi- vada), % but a corruption of Siva, the ancient worship of Tava, Of records or traditions of their life in their adopted hame prior to their discov- uith Seas: ery by Mendana, the present-day M. qhiesaitis lamentably ignorant. Twas inl formed that one of the few investigators who have visited remote group se- cured, some fifty years igo, a mate fatwa, or family genealogy, running: back 133 generations, or about 4,000 years ! My efforts to verify this remarkable feat of Marquesan-memory proved en- fruitless. Possessing fe written ing allowed their ittaics, or {} inte decay, and, isn nes record of their familie: a system af orcro, or bards charged with sing and teaching then to each su cebding generation, the various tribes thave Tost cally all knowledge of their early history In the year 1595 2 Spanish firey under the command af Alvara Mendana, sailing from South America im search of gold, discovered Fatuhiva, the southernmost of the eleven islands comprising the group. With commendable gallantry, the Spart- ish captain named the group [ins Mar- quesas de Mendoza, in honor af the wife of his patron, Don Garcia Hurtad deae > in Di, / mo A DAUGIITERACVANISHIN' Hi Mindoza, Viceroy of Peru: Manavave. tie buy in which the vouagers: first d anchor, Mendina called Bay of i , heing.a keen observer of sava: ‘anid customs, his choice @f a designation for a Mutqesan village leads me to believe the dowghty captain had a well-developed sensé of humor, Only the three lower islands. were iaited | by the Spaniards, These were christened Sarin Magdalena, Dominica, mid Santa Chrisina, “The northern units af the gem iscovercd” at various times during the cnauing two ¢enturies by half a dozen voyagers. including or dmital Porter, in 813, were given names, a were many of the fifty-odd bays which indent thelr shores, ‘The attempt to replace the native terms proved futile in almost every instance, and today the individual i Jnown by their original des ‘The only name fo siand the acid test af time was the record of Mendana's gal luntry, and this was shortened to “Mat- quesas” for actual service. Even this Jong avecpted and generally used tithe has heen altered by the French, who indicate their ownership by giving the Spanish name a Gallic Haver, ‘The group is now charted as Hes Marquises, ‘The Bay of the Virgins, though sometimes mention as Baie des Vierges in the charts, ix known officially and unofticiatly as Hana- vave: AS BARTHLY HARADI SPANIARDS. ‘Thow old Spanish) chroniclers, Men- atin, Figtecon, atl Qvieros, were en- thusiastic to the verge of vehemency over this discovery. ‘To them the islands seemed nothing short of an earthly para- disc—a paradise marred somewhat. i true, by the cannibal tendencies of the fieree, cruel warriors who swarmed by thonsands in every bay and valle the marvelows heauty af the women and the tropical splondar 6f the islands evi- dently cirtweighed the ever-present possi- Lillity. of becoming “lang pig." —pua oa— the Marquesan’s somewhat startling: de- scription of the human victim intended to, grace his feast, The approach to Hanavave, which gave the Spaniards their first glimpse of the SAD THE a OF THE SOUTH SEAS 277 Marquesas, hardly prepared them for the wonders they were seen to witness. Fromafar Fatuhiva looms a dim, mys- terious mass of the horizon, bleak and forbidding; aor does a near approach soften the grim contour of the const lin Sheer from the accan’s depths rise huge masses of towering, stormworn basall, seamed and riyen by a thousand) tem- pests. Here and there a gnarled and twisted ironwood has driven its tenuous roots into the scarred fuce pf the: cliff. the scanty, wind-bown foliage white with eucrnsted salt from hipti-tossed sea, Below, into the black mouths of glee: caverns, the, ceaseless waves Mityg the white-crested battalions with a monoto- nots roar, to be sumed forth again, in Froth and spray. Inthe distance, its jagged, cloud-pierc- ing peaks unrelieved hy tree or shrub, rises the broken tim of a great erater, standing today, as it has stood through the centuries, a monument to the volcanic fires which thrust that molten mass above the hissing sea, to cool and crack into a fantastic jutntile of serrated ridges, mighty precipices, and impassable gorges. SCENES OF CANTIVATING CONTIASTS, ‘The amazement and delight of Men- dana as his ship passed the towering black clifts ding the entrance to Hamavave iseasily comprehenited, The narrow bay was formed hy the falling away of a see- tion of the crater’s wall, and through this opening, framed by gigantic, grotesque oilers and domes of black cock soweringe aindreds of feet skyward, one Taoks di- rectly tito the great how! of the thneti- tain whose hare, broken rim was visible from beyond the const. Bat what d contrast! Where ance tel- Juric fites burned, the luxuriant verduce of the tropics now overruns the immense amphitheater in rivtous profusion, [ris as if Nature in repentant mood were pouring out hor gifts with unstinted hand to cover the scars and desolation wrought by yoleunie fury. ‘Tree and vine, flower and shrub, cover the abrupt, almost vertical sides of the Inge basin and clamber high over ridge after ridge of knife-like ‘hills; choke the deep ravines and valleys with their pro- lifie mass of bloom and foliage, and,A VANISHING PEOPLE OF THE SOUTH SEAS : = idea tropic of Gancer =a = | sian ae ee eg lh oo |e v Marshall | | civertt, | \ - *I aRouESAS “ISLANDS ‘vont Is] 08 ings SKETCH MAP Qu THE So The brief visit of Meniana and his Meet had at best—or worst—a transitory effect upon these savages. ‘There is interesting tradition, still believed by the Hanayavans, that 4 number, of Men- dana’s crew, enraptured hy the phy pulchritude of the native women, de- serted their ships, enacted a South Sea rape of the Sabines, braved the wrath of the cannibal warriors, and: taking with them a score or more of the most at- tractive maidens, fled over the mountain to an infand valley, where they lived hap- pily. ever after. ‘The story gocs that from this adven- ture sprang a tribe of beautiful red- haired women and fierce warriors, who PACIFIC (HOH TIME AGHES, INCLONG. GHOUE! SOTE TILE LOCATION OF VAP AMONG TIL CAROLE M.Palter He SEsnor ISLA! for generations raided the bay villages of Harayave and Omoo when they came from their inland fastness for salt water. there being no salt deposits on the island. Of the existence of such a village there is no prof: bur in Hanavave and no- where elsé in the islands [ sew several women and boys with a wealth of rich auburn hair. Tn appearance otherwise they were full-blooded Marquesans. OF their descent, whether from the inland village or a leés romantic source, they had no knowledge and evinced typical Marquesan indifference, Aside front this single instance, if even it be true, the Spaniards left no mark on the-few bays they visited. It was the ad-TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE do woilld be a conservative estimate.” Captain Cook gave a larger figure for the single island ai ‘Tahiti at tite time of his first visit, and though for a jong time his estimate was held to: be absurdly high hy men less familiar with the island, inter investi refully pursned have established Cook's figures. as essentially correct. ‘The densely popu- lated Marquess in all probability’ es ded in numbers the single island of aliti: but be thar as it may, it ts certain that had it not heen for the mecssint war- fare between the tribes, the practice of rmibatisny and other customs detecrent toa ndtutal inerease in thelr popslation, the islands, would aye beeame inade- quate to the inhabiteats’ support many nturies ago. The WAS THE MAMQUESAN’S ONLY ANIMAL Relig of voleunie origin, th devoid of fauna. The’ pig, bromght by the savages : ney from Asia, was their only ‘The dense forest: rede void of snakes, insects, ete., which A ustially abound in such disconcerting ac- Photoqraph tr Jobn'W. Cheeky tivity in tropical countries win mis There werea few birds, mostly of sta- 1774.at 43 TAKE \ HUMIRA CT TEAU-IMRESS GV OMAN Au going species, but these did not interest NE, AND SILARK: TEETH nc Marquesan, as he did not tise them for food, ‘The kuku, a species of parrs- the only really edible bind in the 1 do not know nesns prior to Cook's cil frome beael to feet, bat duce te eet, islands today in the Mar He i heavily Tenis of eee nt some two centuries Inter of an in= visit, ctic and business-tike Tn the bays ator 'the edast famous Captain Cook, that there were rm: f fish, from the Deginning of the rapid d man-eating moko, or sltark, to. the much dence and ial extermination of the smaller but more palatable bonita ; and in ple he ly desired ta aid. Cook the valleys and mountains nature had Fediscovered the Marquesas in 1774, been lavish with her gifts, Some of the hile on his third voyage through’ the fruits and flowers are of a later period, ith Seas. dating from Cook's introduction of the At that time there were cleven densely orange, several varieties of mango, ba- abited islinds, with a total af some fei, et m Tahiti and ‘other sty bays and lands. But white the ing a pop support ¢ to five thou- sand, ani in some instances, sucht as Pua f the tremendons population, the mait, ‘Taipi, and Hanavave, possibly islands had to stistain, the variety of flora nearer double that number. ‘There were was ample for native needs in every way. al inland valleys with large vi The coconut palm served the inhabit- its of the isinds witha utility as varied the cactus serves a Mexican: food, apply of food ight and often did prove inwuficient by “To phice the population of the group inA VANISHING PEOPLE OF THE SOUTH SEAS diink beth hard sind voft—oll, filler Tor and rapes, its fronds for hitching the hits and a score of minor Services, And in whatever particulars of pliable usefulness the coco paln failed, the panilanus, with its soft, sitiny leaf of great strength and durability, came to the Feseue Then, to, they possessed the mei, the famous breadfrait, whieh, fresh and “rottet:.” has Leen the'st foud of the South Sea islands for cenlatries, and from wh turk ich of the mative tappa cloth was made, From the trunks of the niassive, stately (i, or Marquesan mango, swift, graceful canoes werg fash ch from a single hollowed Tog. nbs and tappa sticks were fash- rel elvin War iotted fram the tow, a. ba hy ny and almost 1 From the mio, a rasew howls and paddles were made: also from the kokoo, one.of the few trees which brave the tempest-swept const betwee the hays. From the pitta the maidens gathered th white, gardenia-tike blossoms with which fo scent the coee oil: and the nuts of the ama, string on oil-soaked fiber, gave the Marquesan his dim ‘and fitful Tight o° nights, Though rarely used hy the savages, Nature supplied them with two poisom ‘The hut, a magnificent tree, with gor geous crimson tasseled flowers, produc a fruit resembling = large mango im ap- pearance, which is a strong narcntic. This they sometimes ysed to stiipefy fish by ernshing the frait and throwing it into the bay. From the root of the eva they could extract a deadly poison. ‘There grew. also the beautifut hibis the bamboo, the noni, the ena, a pungent native ginger, anid many wonderful tropic flowers with which 1am fatnilinr only by sight and their native name ard not enough of a botanist to- classify UNKNOWN WITEN THY TELA WERE DISCOVERED Several viirieties of bananas, mammie apples, and yams belong to this perio hut T believe the uma, or native sweet potato, was of later intreduction, ‘The above incomplete list indicates how bountifully Nature provided for the needs of the Marquesan, save only in that iran yD We Chanel wattientr EN OF NURUHIVA, PRIN: CIPAL ISLAND OF THI MARQUESAS ROE Sho fives iw state.on the shores of the Bay of Pusa, with a numer af men who, work her copra lint are not royal eonaorte. ‘The wri per was donned for the photugranher, This ts the queen’s bay, anid no one enn five there &x: rept her mia aiid lerself, his capacity for propagation at times ot stripped her-tnaided ability to supply his demands. ‘The omission from this Hist of any horks, roots, or barks for medicinal pur- poses brings out a striking feature in the life of these savages, the tare so as it is contrasted with their pitiahle condition today. At the time of their discovery ase was tmknown in the islands, so naturally no provision was made against it. Lacking poisononts reptites, dangerous <, oF insects to carry infection from some far-away lind, the Marquesan lived ina state of physical health rarely found among other races, While in all essentials the flora as well=iA VANISHING as the customs and habits of the 5 in the islands were iden i instances there was much varmatiott. ‘Trees grew in some yallevs which were unknown in others; the whim or judg iment of the tribal king instituted customs: and proclaimed fapite unlike theme in vorme among their neighbors; and even the language varied greatly throughout the group. Although the islands he but 5 ta 50 miles fipdtt, ceaséless warfare prevented. any affiliation among. them, andl it is the great similarity rather than the slight divergence in’ their mode of life that is worthy of comment. Tr was with good cause. that without excoption the numerous discoverers of the group waxed eloquent aver the Mar- eee. ‘He was a mngnificeht savage. Averaging six feet in height, with a mus cular develojiment any atfilete might well the clear skit cavy, good features, and eye af perfect health, it is small won der he-arottsed their acmiratinn. TIL RNAUTIEUL, MARGESAR NES To describe the dainty, graceful! Mar: quesanne as she unqnestiinably was will, T fea me open to the charge of ex- aggeration. TF so, 1 shall still he in good company. From Mendana to Stevenson, with Meivitle for good measure, her re- markalile beauty was a source of surprise and admiration. Unfortunately, my per- sonal observation has been restricted to A period fraught with sickness, mixed blond, but today the few 5 women in the istinds bear out the made for the beauty of their material ancestars When wotnen possess beautiful, text tant hair, fine eyes, perfect teeth, a slen- der, graceful form, 1 skin of velvet tex- ture and tmblemished surface, and these physieal atteactions ace combined, with 3 vivacity of spirt and action, exaggeration becomes diffenlt and unless all chroni clers of the islands have for several cen- turies agreed to deecive the world, such was the Marquesinne; and so she fy to- day when sickness has not diminished her FISRCK, CRUEL, CANNIBALS ‘The men were fierce, cruel canuihals, whase chief occupation, aside from the OF THE SOUTH SEAS 280 indulgence of their amative proctivitics, was the killing ef both men and women of other tribes for gastranamic purposes. ‘The sentiment Gften encountered in other cannibals regarding their victims, such as devouring a brave enemy in the belied that the mantle of his eunrage will envelop the victor, or the interesting idea that it is better to cat your friend than to have him rot onthe ground, wouhl have fotmd searit favor here, ‘To para- phrase a popular author, “pig was pig,” and the langer the better, to the Mar quesan. Each tribe had its tiki, or god, to, whom ite members tendered a sumewhat casual worship, High yp in the valley, usually in the gloomy shadnw af a great preci pice over Which the sun rarely shone, they built their Maie, or sacred sacrificial grove. Here, beneath the deep shale of the sacred banyan trees, was erected series of terraces and platforms, the highest scinte 15 fect ftom the level of the stane= paved grove, ‘This great pucpae, often roo feet in létigth, was Jirge cough 10 seat comfortably — on their heels — the tribal king, his chiefs, and several him- dred warriors. Tn the cetiter stood the fiki, » crude, grotesque imige, sumetimes of wood, hut more often rudely carved fram soft stone with tools of flint. A large stone oven atood at one end of the paepae, and here the priest, with his assistants, attended to the preparation of the feast, After the fioce de resistance md een property baked, certaitt ceremonies of a nature presumed ta be gratifving to the fiki were performed. A Jen‘-tined bowl containing human.eves and other tidbits 10-tickle the aval palate were presented ta the king, the feast was on. In the sacred grove ware gaihered the Tesser ranks of fighting men and-youths, who had not yet attained their spears. No women were present. For 2, woman to step inside the stone wall marking the limits of the Moie at any time was tapu, or tiboo, and merited instant death. No~ where, to my knowledge, in the South Seas—certainly not in the Marquesac— was the taboo against eating “lone pig” ever lifted for the gentler sex; and at is safe to say that in the centuries past, mile8b VIO NATHONAL GEOUHRATYIC MAGAZINE lions of women have Hi nid died. in these islatds in ach with can nibalism, none of whem bas ever tas human fe The all-powerful Jape was the anid the prophets” af the Marquesan. the king of any valley rplexed Mor or private royal plewsir fer YHENGS WosKeN wamiem WORN Ho be isi who ranked next s often ern all, the wil the pork interprete erat the But the roa deli nt fakes jn nyt tthe break ¢ simplest fapu meant death fishes most rh deterrent, but_all Pala nd tradition points to the f ¢ to obey the trial law of the punishment to folloy ing of acterl scmA VANISHING om b outside th eaptured buy slomon t weet with = relating ional food of led. or baked fond, IOEALD, mealy stom and burying it by the ens oft rige it wher gree ands an . in ontVANISHING PEOPLE pits dug im the ground for this purpose. After the pit was filled it would be cov~ ered with a layer of earth and a stone wall, too high to be jumped by the wild: pigs, built around it. ae valley had ssveral of these pits, guarded by fapu until the food supply Tam short. Sometitties five years would elapse before necessity forted the king to Tift the ban and open a given pit, Liy experience, it was discovered that even ten years did not destroy the buried bread{nuit. ‘The once green outer rind turned black, and the contents presented a white, somewhat mushy appearance, fermentation beginning immediately after it was broken open. This, when ground in a wouden bow! with a stone pestle, would rise like a mass of fermenting dough and had the same sticky con- ‘Satency, Tc had an unpleasant odor and possessed an acrid, biner flavor decidedly UnWelcabie to the tininitiated palate. ‘This ts the famous foipei of the Mar- quesas, ot fo be confounded for a mo- nient with the delightful foi of Hawai Tahiti, anc other South Sea islands, “Phe latter more nearly resembles the Mar- esan Kochi, a similar preparation of fresh breadéfuit ‘over witch a erearn squeezed from grated fresh coconut is poured. Centuries of eating the fer- mented breadfruit finally destroyed the Marquesan taste for the fresh fruit, and. his principal food, together with his fa- ‘orite varieties of pig. heenme the acrid poipor and raw fish dipped in a bowl of salt water. “NE CARREY LIFE GY FILE MAROUESAN crt, Tt would be a grave error to conclude from the taboos mentioned that the life of the Marquesan woman was a hard one. T doubt scriously if a more eare- free or contented maiden ever existed, Her domestic duties were light and agree: able. ‘The furnishings of her thatched shelter consisted of a few pandanté sleeping mats—-nothityg more. Outside ‘on the stone platform war an assortment of howls, enidely carved by the men in their intervals from warfare. These held poipei, fish, fruit, or whatever af food tight be prepared for the one daily meal, at which the savages gorged 10 repletion, OF THE SOUTH SEAS 380 ‘Then there were dainty coconut shells, ground thin and polished by rubbing on stne under water, often carved, which held the coco ail and cthen preparations for the toilet, dear to the heart of the who were adept im fire-making from wood by Friction would quickly. furnish the housekeeper bituze in the stnall stone oven at one end of the terrace. The making of tappa cloth was her only tedious ogcupation, and, as the girls always gathicred in groups and discussed matters of interest to the femitine mind while they worked, I doubt if it proved more onerons than the modern se circle, WoOURS TAM MITRS WERE TAPER CLL ‘The tappa was made from the bark of several Irees, the hreadfruit tree making the best quality. ‘The manufacture of the fabric was simple. A sapling or branch two or three Hiches in dhaimeter was used, The bark was sliv with a sharp stone and peeled off, then cut fn two lengrly each piece about 12 inches lon strip of bark was then laid ona. and gently but firmly beaten with a tappa stick, a short club with corrugated sides, until its fibers spread to an incredible length and width, While ia this almost pulpy’ sture, the next piece bentery out would be tapperl into the edge of the first, and so on nntil sheets sometimes 30 40 feet square were made and joined without aseam. ‘The cloth was then laid in the sunt to bleach, its deep rich brown turning. 2 creamy white in the process, after whieh it was sometimes dyed with vegetable stains. ‘he resultitig fabric was a very thin ‘but surprisingly durable ong, 10 be uscd for loin cloths and girdles—when any were worn—for coveriig on chilly nights. and other household purposes. Its namie. as will readily be perceived, is derived from the tapping sound made on the stone by the woexlen pounder: T have mentioned the use of coco ail by the Marquesans. Probably no race ever attained a greater skill in the art of mas- BLOOMS ro290 THE NAYIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE edit for t Mitiseolar Even toda ever 5 yy. The oll wa wooden be sitins and paw evelopment of the warric dden as ol thas Sof frit oF ‘pet fie atic lime wer ight tal pes LESS kar DEEN THEY COULD OWALK reparation of thi I. her tastage, ane ir mat mal daily or necessity Maren as a qutict “ha: ia The and 1 cond with tH almost 2 tatight to k alone, Polynesian Face lusion the withow eaves, and ferns in and necklaces to be w en anid them enough, am tresses were prob attention given them in the u bilPLE OF THe sour 5 ant yo-soqgs nor dances. iff color ont «% s the renurh, { nastiest which w siti ni the tribe under i ceremony of any fe went the torture of t and throa ts We wf the maidens, ‘I ered with geomet face, which of sailid quares on etimes enclosed in an invert the ross the for the chin, > th Had Let a ereen of my y beautiful wo s fit and his appre him, ‘They used from herman b Usually there wi ch tribe. Mu of the orname! fed fine lace-work, and, as skins were ustially a fight brown,204 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE A GROUP OF MARC HAVE LENDENT IN THER NEW Ct M THY SKIPFER OF A TRAD: THEY Before ries t ans. wore prons and 1 Tnreudlfrut ome of them about the shade of ob ntl to the operation ory, the delicate tracery of th stood in ¢ relief. FOR WOMEN KESEMtuEiD Ss Peco it at the request of «may possibly be ehigion was at FINE Lac Te one unaccustomed to the form beaurifu henea n, if will pos: en ‘ erse to, tof the South Sea natives, tustrious lithe, graceful hodies and n ed skins, th the fashioning and decorating of his Linh Wy in one of the for the purpose, and aw : pat absidence of the inflamma- through the . and Even the trails ilages would test the abilityA VANISHIN PEOPLE of 3 mount: fut they were rarel improved. ravine was narrow enough for a fallen tree to span and the tree at bend. it was dropped across the ravine. wre would be no bridge. Agriculture in any form was unknown, ‘The natives took the boutttiful variety of flora the ishinds provided, but 10 assist nature inany way by tilling or replanti never ocearred to them. Content with their gratification of the desires of the day, the Marquesans took. literally no thought for the morrow. ‘The awnership of land wasa sort of community affair prior to the coming-of the white man, and probably, like all things else, subject tothe tribal regula: tion, Thievery or crime of any sort was imknown. Tinpleit obedience df the tapu was the only law. Within its pale their lives were regulated by customs evolved from their own desires, obviating any sasion for the envy, discontent, or am tian from which crime atises, Otherwise one HLOUS AAMREAGE CUSTOM Th the Mariuesan language there were io words 10 express our conception of ther love or jealousy, por bad these emotions ny Jace in their lives, Their jomestic relations hve always been a very lnvsely defined system of polyandry. Each woman or girk—they bore children at the age of twelve—usually had two or more accepted “husbands,” hut there was 1 amiable custom of a temporary ex- hange of wives at any time withont pre~ vious notice, The marriage of the Marquesan maiden to the youth of her choice, haw- ever, Was ain interesting eéremony. A home for their occupation was: Tilt by their friends, and the various necessities for connuibial happiness placed therein, ‘The majden was taken in-charge by several young ‘miitrons, to. be massaged with perfumed oils and her hair and bady decorated with wreaths and garlands of flowers, ‘The youth was consigned to the ministrations of two older women, who rendered him a similar service, besides smoking him thoroughly with the fumes of sandalwood. At the appointed time the scented and garlanded pair were es- corted by the village to their fae, or hut, ‘OF THE SOUTH s where the king with much ceremony des slared them tapa for two weeks. For the period of the topw none might speak to them or in any way disttirb their - fioneymoon,. Food was left each mom- ingan their terrace, togetlier with haskets af flawers to be woven into wreaths and garhinds by: the happy couple. $6 QUARRELS AND NO JRALOUSIES IN MARQUISAN, HOMES This was the sdgletotiah GF rennet in the life of the Marquesanne- Soon another husband, usually an older mun, would take ‘ap his residence with the young peaple, in accordance with the ti custom. Quarrel: i families thus constituted were unknown, ind, to revert again to the present, where the samie custom still exists, there are tio records of uny bickerings or killings over their women by the present-day Mar- quesans. Spiritual love, or even the de site far the exclusive possession: of any woman, seems to hare had no place in the philosophy of the Marquesan, nor was there any evitence of such a desire en the part of the woman. As atall times the men far outmum- bered the women, it is probable there ex- isted 4 custom of killing a certain pro- wrtion of female infants in onder to cep the popmilation within bounds, as was done in Tabiti for many years, Among a people who looked upon ha- man flesh as the list word in-gastronen pleasiire, it would seem reasonable they should have empl duction of women for their sacrifices and. feasts: but, althongh they had nosctuples about eating women and children of other tribes, their own were rigidly apy. t d any overpra- THE LOT OF THE MARQUTSAN 1 my We attitude of the Marquesan toward children. was one of impersonal but af- fectionate indulgence. Their loose paly androus system precluded any certainty as to the father, and, in place of individ- ual paternal affection, the savages looked upon all childret: as their own. The fact that a youngster happened to be born in the ‘tit of Tehia, down by the bay, meant nothing in his young life, At the age of three he would probably have spent months at a time fi huts up theTHE DAYS OF THEIR TRIBE ‘Marduesan girls with love flowers, or flowers the cars. Ane Tehia would Ie mothering one.or more belonging t some one else ren were welvame everywhere. were few, if “don'ts” for nm in home or village, and the y ded on ideal playgretma for ve bodies. This genial attitude was ‘not eaufined to the children, “Though fierce and un relenting in warfare with other tribes, in their own villages the Marqucsins were a mild-and easy-going fot, Lacking the ambitions and ‘desires which constitute such a large part of the mental make-up of civilized man, and free from any com- mercial or competitive strife, they simply failed to develop many unpleasant tra common to civilizition, and remained to valley, while any, of fri THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE vogreat degree gon hatred, impulsive cliildren in ther tem- mcd comiduet he peculiar con- trast of thelr utier disregard for human life and lively sym- pathy for the living was clearly shown when victims were to be chosen from own tribe, In times of stress, when wnenc- cessful in capturing enemies to satisty the demands of theif god or their own craving for human flesh, the king would deeree the sncriice of a number of his own men. ‘The priest thereupon fired to his hut in the ul pe sacred grov ter se fasting and prayer nnouneed xeeretly 10 the king thir names of the vietiins, These would be told te a ke number of war of whom n of portunity to kill, his man witha blow from behind, so that he dice selection as a’ prine 10) Le Gunthice aineicen sip, behind Without Knowing cipal in the cereny AN EMMCRGATED ACCOUNT OF THE MAROUESAN DANCE 0 story of the early customs of the Marquesas would be complete withont 2 brie dd expurgated — leseription of their one dance, the famous South s hula-holn. From Hawaii to Asia this re- markable exhibition of muscufar and vo- luptnous endurance varies only in degree, and among them all the Marquesan was admitiedly the past master of the art ‘The hula ustuilly took plice at the mouth of the valley, where the level ground near the beach gave an opt tunity for a greater mumber of partici-A VANISHING PEOPLE OF THE SOUTH SEAS pants, several hundred savages often tak- tng part in the celebration. | ‘Their musi- cal instruments were hollowed loge over which shark or pigskin had been tightly stretched. "These were beaten by the mit- sicians with the palms of ther hands, filling the air with a pandemonium of sound. Howls of cva-ai and nitniishi, the two favorite intoxicants of the say~ ages, were scattered about to refresh the Aagging spirits and mmseles of the dancers, ‘To try to visualize the contortions of the hula for one who has not witnessed it is to attempt the impossible. ‘Trai to its art from early childhood, with per- feet deyeloyment and control of every leg und abdominal muscle, they dance for hours in a frenzy of passion, uttering hysterical cries unid groans, and twisting their supple bodies in lascivious, obscene jovernents to the wile tom-tom of the pounding deums and the shrill, never- ceasing chant of the musicians. Utterly exhausted, men and women will fall, gasping and inert, only to creep back agam, stimulated by ara-ara and their reviving passion, and fling them- selves once more into the throes of the daree. What their powers of endurance wert in the old days T cannot say, thengh T bave been told the hula often lasted twelve or fifieen hours, | saw one a few months ogo on a beach at Uapu which began at 1 o'clock and lasted until dawn, six hours later. MAHOUES VS MAIDENS AW HE ISLAND “DISTIULERS” ‘Two intoxicants more dissimilar than the ones most enjoyed by the Marquesan it-would be difficult to imagine. Both are in high favor in other South Sea islands, hut. ¢ description here may not be atttiss ‘The ava-ara, or asa-ti, so called in some valleys after the root from which it is made, is concocted by a method that woul scarcely. win approval from a stu- dent of hygiene. A sufficient quantity of the roots 13 given ta several maidens of the village, who sit grouped about a large howl. Each root is chewed by them until} fihers re broken up, when it is thrown into the bowl. ‘This operation nae water is poured over the pulpy mass, an| fermentation, greatly stimulated by the 297 saliva of the girls, begins atonce. Im a short time the ava-uza ix ready for con- sumption, Jthas a distinctly soapy taste, unpleasant to the Anglo-Saxon palate, and is one beverage my patient and long- suffering stomach reiused to entertain even mamencarily. No stich objection can be offered to huntteehi, Or, a5 it is more common! known, koko. Ehi is Marquesan for coconut, and it is from the coco palin that this most insidiows and delectable of all drinks is made, \ tall coco palm that has been windblown so that its plumy top Jeans far out of the endicular is chosen. ‘The buds, from which eventu- ally. fifty or sixty nuts wotld he pro- duced, grow in a compact, oblong cluster near the top of the palm. The native climbs, or rather. runs like a monkey on hands and feet, up the slender, swaying. trunk, and, using long strips of bark oF fiber, binds the cluster of blossoms tightly round and round, uatil the result re blesa huge, fat cigar protruding from the fronds. “Underneath the point of this a how! is suspended and the tip end of the wrapping sliced off, For-a day or two {he native must pos sess his sonl in patience and climb his tree several times to chip off the gummy coagulation which forms on the end of ‘the imprisoned cluster. After the second day it hegins to drip freely, but the end must be sliced fresh every twenty-four irs to stimulate the flow. In this man- neta tree will furnish one or more gal- Jons a day jor several weeks, When fresh from the tree the beverage resembles a delicious lemonade, with a flivor which would make the fortine of a soft-drink manufacturer who could re produce it. Fermentation takes place speedily, however, and in a few hours t soft drink has “hardened” into a iqtts man-Killer that only a-savage can go against with impunity. I speaks from experience, THE AD TOF THE WHITE MAN'S WICKS In the foregoing pages T have tried to depict the Marquesan as he was before the long arm of civilization laid a finger on bis island home. His vices and his virtues were his own. No extraneous in-ny evil days, fram ed bleed. nce could be praised or cen: either. Granting that he was a eruel, Ticentis cannibal, it must alse be con- ceded that he approached the ideal com. bination Ith, wealth, and happiness toa¢ rely, if ever, attained by any civilized community T have said that the coming of Captain k, in 774, presaged disaster for the result of his previous voyages. Ce rniliar with the difficulty. in. winning ihe confidence of the savages in this rex mote group. They welcomed the white men to their shores, and in return Cook brought them fruits and vegetables from other lands to add to their store of food. He intro duced cattle, sheep, and goats on the RAPHIC MAGAZINE nds, and made the wa waluable presents of iron and tools and ity %, So far the famous English voy- er is on the credit side of the ledger Tit unfortunately there is a debit page as. well, ALAND OF NEGLECTEN wes a Welcomed literally with open arms by the women and girls, ew of his vessel left heltind them disexse hitherto unknown. ‘Today great herd cattle, sheep, and goats roam anmote over the islands, while the Marque when he eats méit at all, contents him- self with the same pig avhich he held in high esteem long before ‘the white man came; year after year the fruit Cook in- troduced rots on the ground, but the evil trail yiiesas Tit the map.” tragic a race of siy- presented in oty of ai lowing fig! Against a ci ita aby, the trader, the finally their conquest and subjug a foreign power, Let me say here, lest some of my slonary friends take exception to. the company in which they are placed, that ie rrangentent is purely chronological, veral sporadic attempts were made from 1812 to 1860 to christinnize the is- kinds, but with the exception of the hersie KI itive Hawaiian who came missionary to Hivaca, these wete, in the main, short-lived. gation by TH ARRIVAL, OF THK FRENCH 1842 Admital Du) Petit-Thouars I possession of the entire group i the cof France, ostensibly tw protect the naries in their labors for Chris- pris were built on ¢ islands and troops installed to enfarce French authority. Idiers and the M which latter, other defeat esan warriors, in v3 at war with each armed, were constantly ‘blackbirders” from NorthA VANISH OPLE & SOUTH SEAS 299noo THe Id proclaim theit) probibitions, and with their troops enforce a certain out ward obedience ina fiw villages, tut the natives as a whole have chang with sullen desperation to the custams of the past. HOW KIKTLA SAV) AN AMERICAN PROM THE CANNINALS' POC [ fave mentioned the missionary Kix ela, and ne account of the islands should averlook one incilent of his « is Self a fulleblooded Palyin cerely intent upon the conversion af the Marinesans to Christianity, he carne to the Tay of Poamaw about 1858. and la hored faithfully, although futilely, sith the fierce tribe whieh inhabited the valley. "The savages have never been partial to “white meat,” and it is probably due to this fact that many whalers and trade eseaperl the eyen, But during Kikela’s residence at Muamau a blackhirder had steccededl in carrying off several men-and women, and the warriors swore wen- vance en the next ship which entered the bay. This chanced to he an American whaler, ‘The frst mite, a man named Whalen, went ashore with a boat for water and food. The crew succeeded in getting back to the ship, but alent was captured, and preparation at once hegun for converting him into “long pig.” Kikela protested lordly and long. hut the king and his warriors gave him scant at tention, “The combination of revenge and food was too seductive to he overcome hy religions argument. Finding his pled- ing and wrath of no avail, Kikela roshed to his hut, returning shortly with bis two, most cherished possessions, a miele loading rifle aid an Old black frock cont. the treasured hace of his clerical office. VIE MISSION ARY'S 1.ASy TRUM ‘These he offered as a tansem for Whalen, The king wavered. He had long coveted that cont, but “long pig” was scarce and revenge was sweet, Kikelu had one last trump, a large, ornately carved canoe recently completed by the ‘west boat-builder of the bag. Lm despera- tion he offered it also—and won. Garbedl ia Kikela's frock coat, the gun con his shoulder, the king ordered Whalen ‘released, and with much cere= NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZ the beach. Kikelit restored the mate to his schooner with a suggestion that a speedy departure fron the bay would be the port of wisdom. Needléss to si\), the advice was instantly acted upon, On his return to the United States, Whalen made public tis thrilling experi ences wherempon Président Lincoln, in the name of the American people, sent Kikela a written testinnmy of they ap- Rea of iene and a handsome gold watch appropriately engraver. Kikela thas long since gone to his re- award, but the watch, no longer a time- pice, is still an object of admiring ven- eration in the hut of a heather wihto Inter followed him from Hawaii and now lives on Uapu, where P saw the interesting souvenir a few months ago. A MATQUESAN MIRACLE—THE TEGeND OF WANES SANMEFLIS Tt was on this island of Vapu that a latter-lay mimicle geeurreil sme fifty. years ago: In same unknown way two hays in the Marquesas, thar af Matihen on Nukuhiva and Uakahetow on Uapu, hecame infested with a tiny, hut ex tremely vicintis sandally whose bite w soratched becomes an uleerons «ore. The natives suffered constantly from the pest and could find 10 relief. finally, the kingoof the tribe, whett he was ahout to die, called his few remain- ing warriors about hint and annotnced that, although he had mot been able to Spare them from sicktiess and misery luring his life, owing to the grenter ower of the white man’s gods, he could y tis death reestablish his prowess, and he would demonstrate it by taking with him all the saned-fies on UVapu ‘That night he died, and by morni every sand-fy had disappeared! Not otily the Marquesans, but the white traders and French aficials, vouch for the fact that there seere sandflies ot apn; that the king dif say he wont! take them with him, and J know that they are wot there now : and further, deponent sayeth not. Unfortunately, Hatihew was not in- eluded in the king's domain, and | have unforgettable recollections of the diminu- tive pests in that bay.A VANISHING PEOPLE OF THE SOUTH SEAS ‘During the first fifty years of French necupation there was a really sinecre ef fort to sonyert the Marquesan and make him an industrious Christian. Small churches were built in several of the bays, and later a tiny cathedral at Ataona with a bishop, and a convent. in which the fins Were to instruct the savage maiden in civilized atts and manners. With the assistance of the French officials, schools: were conducted by the priests, and under the foreefnl persuasion of soldiers the: Jertile hays planted to coco palms and the copra industry begun. . Asthe making of copra consists merely ng the tpe coconut and perm it to sundry fora few wes this did not entail any great amount of labar, gind it Nas become the sole industry of the islands, Fram 18§0 to 1870 several efforts to raise cotton were made hy colanists, who came assured of French authority and. protection, but these all failed, and some of the colonists and their imported Chi- nese laborers lost their lives Ey HOTS CIVILIZED CUSTOMS AND LOSES HI OWN After quelling the rebellion on the is land! of Hivaca thirty years ago, the French withdrew their military establish- ment and practically abundoned the Mar- quesan to his fate. A semblance of con- trol is kept up with an administrator and one or two other officials at Atzona and a few gendarmes scattered about the group. The schools have disappeared, with the exception of a little palm-thatched lint in Ataona, where a few’ children, French half-hreeds for the most, sometimes hive a teacher ‘The little convent at Ataona’ still houses four delightful old tadies, the fearless ntns who came to this savage land more than thirty years ago, but there are no classes now for them to instruct in maidenly arts and deportment. Not only does the Marquesan refuse to feceive the white man's culture; he has Jost his own as well, His viees he has retained and added to them those of the race which conquered him, but his own peculiar arts and virtues have disap- peared. ‘The making of tnppa cloth 303 éciised, sive in tare instances, many years ago, to be replaced by the evtton eloth of the trader. In Ataoma and a few other villages the priests succeeded in forcing the Maryuesinne to cover her body with a hideous nightgown effect, which some of them wear when toe priest isabeut or a trading schooticr comes it, and a more insightly ar incongraotis garb has never heen devised. TATTOO ARTIST 1D WOOP CARVERS HAVE, ISI ‘There fas not been a paildle or a poi- ef howl carved fora generation. The jatmous tattoo artists are dead. and with them died their art. In some of the bays Thave scen some of the young men pir tially and pocirly tate , tut the really heantiful work still to be seem on the bodies of all the older men and women has passed forever. The making of mmw chi, koko gin, goes on with but slight interruption, and to it bas beet addled a vile beer made of fermented oranges or bananas, and aleo- hol in any form they can procure from an ocexsional trading schooner, 1 was somewhat puzzled at the Marquesans’ great craving for perfumes and toilet waters until I diseovercd that a four- ounce vial of “Mury Gurden™ was merely + Marquesan cocktail, and a pint of Flore ia water rate! as a fi ¥ of gin While the little schooner which took me to Tahuata was lying inthe Bay of Vaital, a fieree old chief, tattoned. from head to foot and wearing a head-dress'of human hair encireled with chips of bone and shark’s teeth, paddled cutand board- edits, He threw:a lot of five-frane pidves ‘on the table and demanded strong wa- tere A CHIEY WHO WAITED IN WATS ‘The skipper, an old South Sen trader, was equal ig the occa He produced 3 long ‘ack Ixtle containing about tro «quarts of liquid and sold it 16 the chief. "Don't drink it here,” he told the old savage. “You get te into trouble, Take it ashore, drink it, wait three hours, then you get fine drank.” This, of course, in ‘Marqutesan, as few outside the village of Atnota wnderstand any language but their own,806 ‘The chief went ashiare with his bottle of harmless grenadine syrup, and 1 with, him, Within an hour he had consumed the entire contents, ahd sat somewhat im- patiently awaiting the promised drunk, Meanwhile the schooner sailed quietly away. : Dy sunset I was watehing-an elvallit of disappointment and unbridled rage by a stone-sober cannibal chief that left notiting 19, the imagination of his audi- chee. Skippers of trading schooners rarely go ashore in these bays, and [arm inclined to believe their judgment good. ‘The last official recognition af canni- baliem here was many. years ago, but of unofficial reports and rimors there are many, the latest less than two years ago. THEIR CAN NTMALISTIC. APPRTETES. STILL, - SURVIVE ‘There is no doubt that the Marquesans today are ns fond of “long pig” as in the years past, but the opportunities are greatly decreased and the penalty of transportation and long imprisonment certain should they be caught. Neverthe- less there are several villages where tribesmen from other valleys will not go even now Unless in force; and their wis- dom is bred of experience, Only six of the eleven islands are now i cd, and but a few villages on these. ‘The valley of Taipi, on Nukubiva, made famens by “Type,” Herman: Melville’ beautiful classic af the South. Seas, now given over to the silence of the jun gle. Tt was difficult to realize that this utterly desolate valley. where nnthing now remains save the terraces hidden be= neath a rank. tropical overgrawth, was, less than a century ago, the home of many thousand stivages lending the care- free, Inxurious life Melville has deseribed so picturesquely, ‘The French official Annuaire dex Etab- Hissements Francais de POccanie for Tors—the figures were compiled. in 191 j—gives the population of the Mar- quiesus a5 3,004. 1 have recently com- THE NATIONAL GROGRAPHIC MAGAZINE pleted a journey throught the i during which T visited tery inhabited hay and village. My cout gives a popu fation now of L936, a decrease of more than 33 per cent in less than five years? THE VANISHING RACE ‘The official report gives’ sixty knowitt cases of leprosy, and T siw considerably tnore than that number scattered about the six islands. The actual proportion of lepers to the population will never he known, but it is very large. As leprosy takes years to develop toa degree where it cam be detected readily, nmainy who are now afificted with the dread disease with- out knowing it will die af other causes in the next few years, Adimitiedly, the rav ages of tuberculosis and other insidion diseases are beyond any hope of entemer- ation, ‘The average death rate throughout the islands is at least cight deaths to ane birth, and in many vilinges rims higher: ‘The ratio of men to Women is about seven to one, and they live in: practically the same communal polyandry as in the old days. With these vital statistics available, it cart be seer that not only are the davs af the Marquesan numbered, but the num- hier is exceedingly «mati. [do not helieve that there will be a full-hlodded Mar- qquesan alive in ten years. M_ La Garde. administratar af the group for 908-7. agrees with me in this conciiaen, ‘There can be no doubt whatever that today this drunken, disease-tidden rem- nant of the Maraussen rate is beyond re- demption ; and all the French colomial ad- ininistration can do is to pursue its pres t policy of nominal supervision and tet the natives die off as speedily as possible As [stood for the Inst time in the beau- tiful valley of Phaman, looking theaugh a tropical forest of fruits and flowers to the quiet ‘bay. far below, 1 could but ask myself the question: If prophetic vision had been granted Captain Cook would he not have sailed silenfly past the Mas Marquesas de Mendoa? 1 wonder!A MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN Marvelous Riches of the Wonderful West Coast of Our Neighbor Republic By Freprrick Serie Funwarex Asemeas Comme ar Nowenes, noe Wire Anau. ann, Bee Liven! “Mone Sener, Side Sila Maven” ene. “ AMON-O-0-S !" yelled the con- ductor, and the long mixed train for Guaymas-started with a jerk. From the tail of its caboose | looked back at Nogales, sun-bathed and lazy, sprawl- ing indolently astride that historic line called the Mexican border, Frum beside tis, as we gathered speed, tin-roofed adobe shacks and groups of loitering peons tid back into the wood-smoke hie that hinted! at native breakfasts of beans and burnt coffee. From a wayside corral rose a burst of oaths and. clouds of dust,:as into its “dip- tank” yelling cowboys urged a herd of sullen steers: i tad tangle of hoofs, horns, and tails they were, but Uncle Sam says incoming cattle ruust take this Jest they carry fever ticks that might injure our awn source of T- bones and prime ribs aw jus. Past stimted live oaks we glided and into a shadow y 's slaping sides marked with cow-paths like terraces. Up a stony trafl q mule train plodded, packed with cases of dynamite, bags of four, and provisions, bound for a ming hidden somewhere in the distant bine Sonora—hills of incredible riches. And ar to the south of us, for a thousand curving, twisting mites, the pioneer rail- read pushed its way, down inta that Promixed Land of Mexico, the far-flung famous West Coast, WITEHE THE COLORFUL UFR m ‘The change in plant and anit und industries as you pass from Arizona into Mexico is very slight for the frst 200 mi or more, Had they not searched your trunk at the custom-hott and maybe eharged you duty on that ne eamera, you might not have realized that you had crossed a frontier. It is only After you quit the high, rolling y of northern Sonora and strike the Yaqui valley below Guaymas that_a new world reveals itsdlf. Here the bright, colorful life of the vast coastal plains begins, Flocks of screeching green parrots flap noisily overhead, Skulking coyotes twist swiftly away into the pilo evrde bushes. At dusk spotted bob-cats Turk in the benshy trails, stalking rabbits: In smoky Indian camps along the railway Yaqui troops are_on duty, patrolling the line against their wikt brothers. of the hills, One sees them making sandals from green cowhide or cutting a beef or a burse into strips and hanging the meat ap todry, From their outposts come the dull signal-bests of their jomtoms. “The sound of that dram always gives the en- emy ain eareche,” a Mexican officer told me. ALAND OF WONDROUS LURK Peyond this Yaqui zone lie the vast level plantations of cane, corn, beans and tomatoes, and thar important Mexican crop, the “garhanz,"' ar chick-pea. Tt is o land of wendrous lare, rich itt romance and adventure. is this magic West Coast. From Acaputea to Arizona the impiaus hones of buccaneers are strewn; and along this sume age-old Antec intrepid padres fought their way, building fort-like missions and carrying the cross te arrogant Apaches and ‘pagan Papayes. From Cortez and Sir Francis Drake to the American min- ers and planters of today it has drawn restless then from the world’s far places and ensnared them with its subtle charm. Millions in gold and copper have beenPhat OF FoR MAKKET ? Hot the clothes, that makes thie rus, fich combines the fare of a Merr gnity und {he Mesican \peon tiiril ie'ig the foot and in tatters, bur (fhA MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN wrested from its hills and fortunes in pearls fished from the hot waters of its gulf. Out ofa lonely gulch in. Sonora, Indians once took a nugget of G00 winds, a chunk of pure silver s0 heavy wthad to be carried away on 9 platform slung between two stout mules. “The Mineral Storehouse of the World,” Humboldt called Mexico; and a tale is told at Uires of one Seftor Almada, wha, on the eeeasiin of his daughter's marriage, lined ‘the bridal chamber with silver plates and paved the path from his house (0 the church with Ine same pale, chaste metal! A FERTILE, UNKEMIY GARD ‘Vet if this West Coast were robbed. to- day of all its gold and silver, its copper anil graphite, i would still remain one of the price regions of earth, a Kempt warden of sturtling fertility, alive with wild animals and birds—a Mexican Edleri, where life is simple and easy, one idler phrased it, “In Sinaloa you can. Kick your breakfast off the trees any morning in the year.” ‘(Of ranches and plantations: there are many, of course, especially in the watered, valleys; but the coast conntry as a whole is largely undeveloped, vast areas being still covered with jimgle brush and wild rites. The very richness of the mineral de- posits and the fact that for generations: the Spaniards worked only the mines, pausing neither-to sow nor reap, tended to keep the country back. Indeed, as ote old Mexican wisely said, “If all the work that’s been done in our mines since Cor: tez went prospecting had been put, to- plowing and irrigating, we'd be raising grain enough now to feed fifty millians, instead of havin import flour and corn from the Umted St id EA ¢ the Children of Israel set out fer Canuin a certain inexorable law has fed restless men of all races to: seek ‘homes where soil and climute make life easiest. Henee, indisputably and inevi- tably, a tide af migration must some day set in to this West Coast, just as it once Howed into our own empty west and into Canada. Mexicans alone cannot settle it and bring it to full fruition, for there are not euough of them, and’ they achieve 308 better results with the stimulus of foreign aid and example. ready hundreds of pioneer colo- ists—Americans, Chinese, and a few Europeans—are settled here. As m chants, miners, and planters, as doctors, Z and manufacturers’ agents, foreign residents are scaticred all down this const from ‘Tin Juana to Te= huantepee. Th the Yaqui Valley one American cor- poration, originally organized by two far- ering: EnarsSers, has already worker 8 agricultural miracle, Aided by Auierican soil experts, plant wizards, and advised hy stich met as built the Roosevelt dam, it has cleared and watered thousands of acresand established a pioneer American calony. ‘The shallow, weed-choked irrigation ditch that the Indians knew is replaced by long, deep canals with miles of laterals and fake-offs, and giant dredges now move tons of mud a day where once the pee taled_ with is frail shovel, Oil- uring tractors and marvelous gang- plows have crowded ont the crade im- plements and scratching sticks of a dec- ade ago. In other places and in other ways the American immigrants influence is setting up a higher standard of industrial and social life, At Nacozari, Sanora, a Yan- kee mining company has built a free elu and social center tor its. Mexiein em Jloyees; there are baths, pool tables, a iheury af Spanish and English books, ind current periodicals. Strikes have never disturbed this cmp. Its American managers are required to- learn the language of the country, study the psvehology of the people, and to respect their cistoms and traiditians When one of this company's mative engi~ neers sacrificed his life in an explosion to save many fellow workmen, the company named the town plaza in his honor and built a monument to his memory. SONORANS “THE VANKKES OF Mexico” Herein Sonora the American idea has taken particularly deep root. Mexicans from other States call these Sonora na- fives “the Yankees of Mextea” because of their thrift, advancement, and close re- lations with the Americans. PracticallyDenn by RM. Parker A SKETCH MAP OP THE WEST COAST OF MENICO-AND THE PENINSULA OF LOWER CAMFORNLS,A MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN all families of the merchant and ranch- ing classes send their children to schools in the United States, ‘These youngsters, returning to Mexico, are proud. of their English (and their Yankee sng). ‘They. wear American- made clothes, dance all the pojiilar “steps,” and display an tinderstanding of American ideals which can only make of them more friendly and helpful commer- cial ficighbors in the years to. come. Even now the average home in north West Mexico is largely furnished American wares—the Yankee ses inachine, the Bio: graphophione, kiteher range, brass bed, ani! baby warriage ate everywhere. And from Uncle Sam's fac- tories our Mexican neighbors get most of their ready-made clothing, their shoes, hats, veliicles, farming implements, carmed fnods, and sporting goods, SPANISH TAUGHT IN SCHOOLS A HOPEFUL sto “The truth is," stid a Mexican of my acquaintance, “we understand you Ater- icans better than you understand tt, be cause so many of us speak English and have lived or visited in the United States, Take miy own case: T was educated in California. When [returned to Mexico asa yoling business man, [ obtiitied the agety for certain Americar farm imple mints, and ina few years I was worth 3 million pesos, “Plenty of American sniesmen came to iny part of the coast, competing with me, but [sold more plows and wagons than all of them put together, because T knew the langitage and mental processes of both maces, Hire.an interpreter and you hunt trouble, No man trusts another when be can't understand him. I've no- ticed it often, “A hopeful sign af beter relations be- tween Mexico and the Sintes, ta me, is the fact that <0 many of your public schools are now teaching Spanish. Keep it up. Tt will help us to become better business friends.” A SILER, 4 CARGO, AND A MARKET It és said that in 1498, when Vaseo da Gann sailed around the Cape of Good Hope to India. and returned to Portisgal with a cargo of spice and pepper, he B11 made 6,000 per cent on the investment. ‘There is more competition im the com: mission business mow and profits are more modest than in Mr, da Gama's day, but the factors are the same—a ship, a cargo, and a market. And this coast is peculiarly our field, Our Panama Ca- nal put it on one of the work!'s greatest highways; and our freighters, cutting the wake of the romuunitic galleons of old, now call at Guaymas, Mazatlan, Acapulco, and other West Coast ports. Already the trains that craw! down from the border are loaded with American machinery, dry thing the Tt # our marker now, linked with us by rail and sail, and we must keep it, WHERE THE OOW-MAN 15 KING ‘The ratio of meat-bearing animals to human beings is probally higher in Mex- ico than in any other country, because so much of the fand is fit only for grazing, Every year we Americans eat thousands of imported Mexican cattle, and in years to come We shall necessarily, buy more id, fore eof fit Below the | Rio Grande, Cow-men irom our Western States long aga ventured into Mexico, and on its vast, unfenced ranges some Americans have built up enormonts herds. On one great American-owned ranch about, 13,009 ealves are branded every spring. In Sonora a certain Yankee cat- tle company’s holdings are divided into nearly 200 pastures, and when the over- seers motor about they carry with them a map of the ranch, showing the different trails, fences, and pastures. To make a i ion of the property a week's time js required. In miny p water for the stock is obtained from wells equipped with wind ‘or gasaline pumps. Little feeding is done, ns the cane can graze the year round. Many of the same forage grasses that caver the great Arizona rnges are also found in Sonora and Sinaloa, ‘The beans af the mesquite tree are likewixe very fattening, and it is yo uncommon sight to, see a Mexican heifer stand on her hind legs and reach for the higher twigs of this succulent bush, Tr some of the mountains many se- ealled “wild cattle” roam at large, un-uafrom Spain, Haly, and € © supply. from tof these peas ar inst each other frally fixed, of Sinnlon lireed:AV MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN and makes its home ih caves among rocky cliffs. Here deposits of utane ac cumulate, small fortunes being some- times realized from the sale of ane cave's oT To Jucate a lat eave these guano-hin- ters work much as do the hackwoods her tree hunters in Missouri, They seek out a likely cliff, wait till disk, and wateh for hats, Soon, by close. observation, they cam loeate the cave entrance from which the bats emerge ‘This bat is small, with flat head and brad cars. and gives off a musky odor. ‘That bright-red dye in the paper-on your library wall probably came from, away down in Sinaloa, Dut you would hardly luwe recognized it had you been at the reveiving station in Culincan the day the mile train got in from the hills, each animal carrying his goopound Jand of short, brown logs. Ttis jn this form that the dyewood is shipped to the States, where it is ground and bo: haut 15 Per cent of its original weight is soluble in water and represents dve matter and tannin, Cnele Sam also eofars much of his army kiki cloth by the use of Mexican fustic dyewood, which Tikewiw comes fram Sinaloa. The Yankee buyers in Mexico bargain for the wood deliverod at the vailway, where they take only the hearts of the logs, with the bark and sap- chopped off. ‘There are extensive forests of this vy. detise wood in Sinaloa, and compariy prefers it for Recause of the tani white ants, and other insect pests lo not eat its its durability in the ground is remarkable. One small railway Tine put in fustic wood ties 45 years:ago, and they are still sound. ‘This tree helongs to the mulberry family. WM LESSON ItROM atisee Nor long.ago one of our farm lecturers at Columbia University. was telling af Some new wrinkles in factning that he had picked upon a trip through Mexico, “Cine of the he said, “was a -viriant of our recently adopted system of green tanuiring that T first saw practiced on a Mexican bean ranch. ‘The bean vines were cut off with hoes just under the 315 surface and the roots allowed to remutin re to rot till the next planting tin The Mexican had never heard af pul= ting nitrogen into his soil and, was merely: following the formula he had learned from his Spanish and Indian ancestors, Jou, he was doing effectively just what thousands of American farmers have learned in the Inst generation to: de—in= crease fertility by growing Gai lesese,, Bie te dill os oe tt All the bean vines, hulls, weeds: and field trash were raked! inte piles-and were soon asdry as tinder. Each of these piles was Wuried with earth 10 a depth of perhaps six inches, so that the whole field was eovered with motnids Fram two to four feet high, “In due time an opening a foot in diam- ster was dug-at the base pf each mond, and the dry vegetation inside set nfire. Then the ‘hole was closed till barely enough air could enter to keep the fire smouldering. but not blazing, and the smuke filtered throngh the loose earth shove {ill the whole fick had the appear. ance of a nest of miniature volcan “After.a few days all the combustible material had butted out of the mounds and they were broken scat- tered, From the Mexican rancher I learned that the practice fad s been follawed hy good farmers in Spanish Anieriea and that it lind been brought from Spain im the eartiest times.” MOWE TRANSIUDATION 18 SEEMED Until recent years this coast zone was untterly ent off from the rest of the world except hy sea, Even now no railway, and not even a passable wagon road, rims east and west actoss northern Mexico, Tn fact, few rich, civilized regions anywhere have so.dew miles of railway, in propor- tion to their area and importance, as this West Coast of Mexico, The north and south traffic is served hy only ont rund, that, of the Southern Barifie of Mexico (owned by the Anreti- can company of the same name), whose railbead in 1910 had been pushed as far as the picturesque old city af Tepic. Here, at the beginning of the Madero revolution, construction work was suse pended. Eventually thie line will be built218 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZT will be extended to st Coast terminus of jtanters » Railway Oe er 1,100-mile stretch country is without a rail-A MENIC. “The engineer says. that ceitiingg tp Taat night his cap Mew off and went out the cab window, He wants tp min slow go- ean find it.” growled the official, “The only quick thing in these parts is the Mesican jumping bean.” THE FISHER MAN'S “PuROBTISED SEA” Ask any United States Navy officer who has “done a hitch” in. Guaymas wa- whup the fishing there ts Tike! “When, vy're bitte wood, you've get to hide behind rock to-hait sour, hodk!” [ence heard a suilor declare. ‘Trolling for toro, red sree ski (oe Spanish mackerel, yellowtail, cabrilio, and other sea fish ts 4 favorite sport, Once the fish-run came so fist and thick, crowding the seu so closely about cur boat (Wwe threw sirdines overtnard as bait, that we fook in all except 15 feet of our tines, acd actually canght the particular fish we wished out of the mixed sehool that leaped after ust “Not you, but yar! my excited com= panion would woul, jerking his spoon trom before an undesirable fish and toss ing it in front of acchuicer species, Then an cight-foot shark. darting suddenly grabhed the leaping skipjack | was, pla img, and took my fish, Tine and all, and mutch perfectly good American skin from a thw and smarting palit, "There ate: sesre fish sid tr fish in the Gulf of Californi: than in any ather known body of water, A-cannery built here contd provide food for thousands. Just maw. the strphes tons of fish serve principally 10 support countless pelicans, cormorants, and ether: fishing birds that swarm on the rocky shores and islnds of the Gulf. re hinds af it is said, WIDKRR WILD FOWL AI AEST Comparatively: few fish are captured hy the Mexicans, who employ: no modern tieans. nntives are wi and trawls: they usually “‘still-fis! depth of roo feet or more for the giant fish and tortuava. Eaeh hoatman cur ries a short, stout club, ated whem he finally gets his fish to the surface and alongside his boat he kills i by pounding tpn the heads then he drags it aboard. ‘The rice planters in the Yaqui Vallee LAND OF CANAAN Bio vill gladly by you a supply of ramon tion and lend yout a-shorgiin if you will spend your next vacation dawn there, ‘At irrigation time, particularly, the wild. fowl become a-pest, for this West Coast lies an Gne ot their great migration routes, From 9 blind beside a vice field T omee got 22 redheads in less than ast hour, working & irgange shotgin as the evening Hight came in, There are goose, tho, and brant and curlew and many va- rieties of shore birds Here abso the California of “valley” quail is amazingly abundant, especially about the wheat and. tomito ‘fields, Around tausually good feeding grounds you will find these birds not in covey, but ih armies, frequently 560 cr 1,000 of them feeding together in ane field. ‘They: ape mimerons in the mesquite covered hills also, and a covey tay often be lu cated by watching for ihe hawks thar circle above the thicker where the birds are hiding, Among the rolling foothills, where they feed on.acortis, myriads of “white wing” ur Sonora pigeons mite theit home. At nightfall these birds flock down to the water holes or irrigation ditches by the thousands. Here is an American happy bunting gground for those who Joye the rad and foun “Some day, when its charms are hetter known, Guaymas must become a polar winter resrt of ‘soft breezes, bine seas, and ideal January outdoor days, WILD ANIMALS. ADOUND: At Agua Fria Ranch, in Sonora, the Americans ‘keep a professional lion- hunter, with a puck of trained dogs. ‘Unless their prowling raids were con- tinuously resisted, the wild beasts would soan overrun the ranch. Tast year this Innter killed over 30 atiimals, including lions, tigers, and wildeats. Once he went into a deep cave after 'a wounded tiger, varrving his pistol in one hand, his torch in the other. The ranchers complain that it is almost impossible to raise colts, especially in the hill countries, for lions have heen known, to leap a 12-foot corral tu:get at them, The “burza” or black decr, sind alsa e white tail, are very common, Anteyar322 ‘THE NATIONAL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE‘A MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN (Of these Indians the 8,000 Yaquis, with their crude’ Bacatete hill forts, their weird ceremonial masque dances and their warlike attimde, are easily most conspicuous. Many are evista ih che federal army br employed as tanch hands and mine or railroad laborers. ‘ General Obregon tells a story, typical of the Yaqui's subtle mind. Obregon nce had occasion to war his men against wasting their simnmumition by shooting from the moving trains at ob- jects along the road. Halted one day at a station, Obregun heard a shot and saw a Yaqui lowering his rifle, smoke floating: about him. He went ont personally and rebuked the Yaqui, “But, my General, | did not shoot," pleaded the Indian. “It was some one who was here yesterday, ‘The smoke you Yaquis with the federal troops are termed Manzas, Yannis: those in the hills, wild and hostile, are the “Hronchos.” ‘The latter are a vagrant lot, robbing ranches for food and as mals, carrying rawhide drums and water gourds, wearmg sandals af gree cow- skin—living by their wits. Pressed by lumger, they subsist as well on hurros as. heel. ‘These hurros, “the short and simple animals of the poor,” thrive by the thow- sand on the West Coast. Many ran wild, Hike "the wild. asses of Mesopatuntia.” "The Maya Indians, some of whom «till carry: hows and arrows, inhabit the flat coastal phiiti somth of the Vad along the River Maya. Ex¢ellent Tabor d, many of the helpers on American ions. ranches and pl ‘nine sti 15 OF ‘Hptre advertised brands of men are familiar to the stiow- going Arve pubhe. = The ead hunter, the Pygmy, the Bushman and his boomerang are all qld circus acquaint ances. But right here at hame, within 760 miles of chaste and classic Los An- geles, there dwells a lost tribe of savages whose very name is known to but few of us; for this tribe has never been tamed. “uplifted,” or even exhibited. Yer it is older, perhaps, than the Aztecs; it may 828: even be the last living fragment of the American aliorigines. ‘The Seris, these ‘strange people are called, and they inhabit a lonely, evil rock ealled Tiburon. (Shark) Ind that lifts its hnstile head from the hot. po ae ters of the Gulf of Cortes, (Gulf of Cal- fornia it’s printed on American maps.) And afl down this coast the name of Ti- arom, is i with a shrug of the shoulders, for these Seris are thieves and. Killers. It is even whispered that long ago they were cannibals, However, they did not try to eat Us or ever hint at it while | was visiting them. From where we anchored, off the north end of the island, it had seemed quite de- serterl: but na sooner had we waded froma our whaleboat to the beach than two In- dans appeared. carrying a Hag of truce. ‘Then came others, in. swarms, yenturiny timidly from-the meee and palo perde slender, with straight black ti teeth were remarkably white and Sond. Except fora few bows and arrows, all were unarmed. (Later learned that they had hidden their few old rifles in a neighboring arroyo before showing them- selves.) ATMISATPOISTED CITE One picturesque old man, clad in. tat- tered rags, an antediluviaa “Stetson, and rope sandals, advaticed and asked in broken Spanish for the "Chief" of our party, We shook hands, and then, w ime further formalities, he demanded w drink Our failure to produce aleoho! had an immediate and depressing effect on old Juan Tomas, as he called himself Italo seemed to npset the rest of the tribe, who yapped and chattered exciteslly for several minutes. afterward that previous tably started ne- with the Seris by ufferiny Whisky ormescal, Luckily [had lroughit me cigars, and when the tumult among the “wets” had subsided 1 produced these met gave them to Chief Juan Tomas. He made no move to pass them around ; whereupon the ether bucks again broke into noisy, jahbering prot Then crafty old fugn Uta panetela, puffs, and passed it to the Indian nearest324 THE NATIONAL ¢ him, He, toa, tule a Lc i med i ar on to the fests it : disappesred I he ¢t " rele tight to in the crowd. But Jia t to the box. “What kind of acman is that?” de manded the Chief, pointing toa negro sailor in one party - “is Ameri bien,” L explained. “e's not.” insisted the Indian, “I've scen Americans before. They come here to bunt, ‘They are not like that man.” That lee did nor piesiie the subject oF show any further interest in the tiltek man. “After some parley, the Chie? ageved to lead us to the Seri village, Tt lay down the beach huli a mile, toward the Sonora side. But when we got there it was not a pacbie at all, as other Indian pueblos usually are, Tr.was lithe more than a place it the sand where the Seris ate and slept—just rue. flimsy shelters of mesquite ani tules, or pabi xvrde brash pated in circles about holes in the sand, Here and-there. afew big turtle shells were worked in ot laid on the brush. No typienl Todinn hints, no tepees—not even the primitive but substantial “ramadah™ of the Pimas; in fact, the abiding place of the Seri is ho thove of a shelter thin the pigs aid calves of fowa find on the lee side of straw=stacks: ‘The Seri Womiée, carrying bundles ori their heads and chattering excitedly, fled up = canyon as we approached their vil~ lage. Tut after a dew minutes they be= gan venturing back, timidly, curiously, A CONCERT ON ThE SANDS ‘elscaddi to: Nig-seaiety6F. Guerock ‘ernioee tren our Ghij-m sete wi played, the camndelin. Te was theonerti: ficulous—a mandolin tinkling nes" on this lonely shore But our music failed ta soothe these particu- tai savages: on the cantrary, irrande the men dance and the women giggle ‘Then Bie: Santé, lanchitred:Sert destiod thie hrushraid emerged with —leel die, for Jack of a better werd: just a square of dried hide, 9 stick with not iy ailela "herd sinarely. 4: iededl coed Te squatted down, stood the piece af hide: Gin edge, Exid one end of the.tonched stele on the ground and the other end on ve. sien, GRAPHIC MAGAZINE upper eilge of the hide, and: fidiiled awas—and sang, ft was not unmusical, Hot wits it itustt, is our ears know it. “Sounds like filing a saw,” granted one of our sailors. “TM say he's sho got some jazz in ventured George, the negro. One buck volunteered to dane gota dried deerstin and laid i down, on the sand. Leaping onto improvised: platform, with swayi and waving arms the Seri s patted the dried hide with bis bs jotted fect, keeping tithe to the whining fiddle, ‘Then, ane hy one, a small group of women ventured aut from the brash and. formed a half circle abont the dancer and began to sing. “They were a sarelooking charts, tos: he least—ragged, n= speakably filthy, their faces and linths hideously tattoned with some bine color- ing maticr, and their foreheads daubed with white birdextano, Jn q worn canvas envelope, suspended oma string about his neck, the Chief ear- Hes an old letter signed by the Prefect at Hermosillo, acknowledging Juan ‘Tomas as Jefe of the Seris and holding him re sponsible for their good behavior. POVERYY AND GRAUATION AMtPiatp Years age these Indians inhabited a part of te Sonora coast and went trad- mg ta Hermosilto and Guaymas. But their thieving, lawless habits kept them ‘lyin conflict with the Mexican an- ities that eventually they were driven to Tibnrren Istand, For some months previous to our visit the Indians had not been te the muintanil, by reason of a litle affair wherein the ibe had murdered certain Mexican fish- ermen from Guaymas and bored their oat, Their poverty and degradation are per- haps the most absoltte among human be- ings anywhere. No hausekeeping, no gardens. no animals, no fowls to care for, no tools—jst to fish, to lalla deer or a burro, or spear a turtle! (While we Were with them bucks bronght in a deer; it was eaten raw.) ‘They. had no utensils at all except clay olla, One olf squaw, ignoring ws ut- terly, went on with her work making: amA MEXICAN LAND OF ¢ YAQUI noY soLiirens AND ‘One of our py le pictire. She + way. A tetid money to her mather made no impre w bright bra hopped deer me and children were also eatin call “How many dogs have y ed Incredible as ir sounds, of the Chie were subsisting wholly on “P don't know; fF ean't count,” he perl tt int He made the same answer when I y had had none asked Itim how many Seris there were 1 judge x than 200] TIE: MAGIC OF URA: ndians Ina all thi di crude but ps the sign was misundersioo anyway, what the Seris brc920 Tk TIONAL GROGR. 10 igo a Mexican marriage x tl that they nt to ‘Tiburon, ply mate, There are no pr fered to take the Spa medicine ri babies” her people in G in soil for baptism int 1 umn, they. ¢ ind point wed Calife no doubt, to 1 Ned him t Seris, and he took theA MEXICAN LAND OF CANAAN S27 haunt for many Yankee witniralists,® fish- ermen, and Mig-game hunters: and here nd theres fa the more: favored, well watered, grassy spots of the higher ranges, hardy Anierican eattiemen have built their adobe homes, where they en~ joy the limitless freedom of vast un- jenced areas. “The Circle Rar Company at Qjas Negrox Rarich rins cattle over a. leased territory of two and a halé million acres, and x British corporation holds title to something Uke fifteen million acres . Away dawn at peaceful, picturesqie ja Paz, where Cortez repaired his schgoners and where, centuries later, Walker, the Yankee filibuster, raised his another Yankee today runs a busy tittle tannery, turning Gut Gop sides of good leather eyery day, for an American shog factory. Here and there. in hill and valley, Americans are delving for metals or growing the staple frijit : ut the country as a whole, owiig to its-many desert, waterless areas, is but sparscly settled, and. ax ane writer Sys, “In all its turbulent, romantic history, wn days when Sir Franc Dieake dropped. his pirate anchor 4 a Bay, no wheeled velticle haw trav its rough and tortuos length.” are jis'mines and fat ax are of cattle, its chief source of cs in the cottat-grawing regions lexical. its her wealth aroun A DIFFICULT BORDER PRONE At the’ Colirada delta, mare than at any other point on the whole border, the interests of the United States and of Mexico ate closely joined, "This is due to the singular topography of that regine (part of if is below weaslevel) and to the diversion of water from the Colorado River. Inthe opinion of many irrigation: engineers and pralitical students, this pe- caliarly delicate problem of irrigation water Fights, as between planters on the Ameri¢an and Mexican sides af the line, respectively, can be solved sitisfactorily only by soine Joint treaty between the two republics, iuvolvimg etther the fixing of a neutral zone or the sale nf a sonal attip of territory * See ako. in Tie Navinwat flengnarnte ‘Macaxe May, tort, “A Land of Drought and Desert,” by E,W. Nelsc Years ago private American interests built am irngation ditch, takmg water froti the Colorado River near Yuma to irrigate the Imperial Valley in Caliiornia, To avoid the difficulty and cost of emtting througly the shifting: sad a tot Yuma, the ditch, follo vasier resistance, was carried south over the border into Mesico, thence west for soirie: Go tiles, and finally north again into California, LHere the famous Im eral Valley. which now boasts. a pipa- ation of 65,c00.and farms worth a Ter dred thillions, was developed, the waste Water manning down into the Salton Sea, 200 feet below sea-lev In return for the privilege of carrying. this main canal over Mexienn soil, the original promoters agreed tn allow. 50 per cent of te How to te used in irrigating land on the Mexican sile, where a ereat cotton-growing region, owned almost wholly hy American colaniits, Tas re- cently been developed. (In 1918 its erop was. worth nearly ten millions.) THM, FATE OF A WONTEREULLY Prigttta, VALLEY 1S AMT STARE _ Because of the internativtial nieaniler- ings of this canal, it is easy water rights are sometimes in conflict, and also that the farmers in California aretuncasy, day and night, lest some harm come to the Mesiran seetion of the ditch. Tf this life-giving canal should be cut oF destroyed by some farce in Mexico, the vast Imperial Valley would dry up and auleely rewert to desert, just as liap- pened so Tong ago when Ghengiz Khan cut the canal above Bagdad pid trans formed the “sea of verdure™ that HMerod- otus saw inte the wind-Mown munis and sand-filled laterals that mark the modern plain of ruined abylonia This char, then, why the governments of bith republics arc so concerned in safeguarding the international ditch, And.as yet, notwithstanding its present great prosperity, the real development of this amazingly rich Mexican region has marely begun, South of the sd-calted “nnd voleanyes,” east of the 1 i Salada and along the Hardy River, stretches a vist, tile-growh are: a pete ile and rich as the valley the Nile, tuilt np through age-long silt deposits from Arizona, Colorado, aid