seis | iz “rH Livinga a a a LD js aed UE ¥ DESIGNED TO TARGET A CONSISTENT NOBLE PROFILE. Developing products that elevate specific beer styles and create specialized SO eS a OTe CLUS ee profiles and terpene ratios of noble varieties. Blended with 100% American hops using existing acreage, Pacific Crestis a consistent, sustainable choice CR ee ee a oe SUC YA K | MA yn SS CHM EEF -HOPS- During these times of uncer committed to remaining a reliable source of qu the raft brewing community We prioritize the well-being of our customers, employees and growers so that al YCH products and programs will be available as soon as you return o your kettles,THE SPIKE FERMENTER DIFFERENCE At Spike Brewing, we take pride in our craftsmanship and ingenuity. We believe that when it comes to our brewing equipment, no challenge is too big and no solution too small. Our engineers work tirelessly to develop products that not only meet the demands of our customers, but exceed their expectations, toa. And everything we make is designed, welded and assembled in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, so you can be confident that you are only minutes away from getting the answers you need or a custom product you've dreamed up. We like to think our commitment to ‘our customers speaks volumes about what makes us different. Some might say our products speak for themselves. To find out more about the Spike difference, visit us at vrww.Spikebrewing.com/fermenterdifference, Cc (© STAINLESS STEEL CONSTRUCTION Eliminates the risk of shattered glase with carboys or hidden bacteria in plastic buckets, 304 stainiess steel vessels are stronger and more sanitary. FULLY REMOVABLE LID Entire lid is detachable and provides full access for easy Cleaning, No small openings i the top and no clumsy brushes necessary © TEMPERATURE CONTROL Ala carte temperature control accessories allow for temp ‘management regardless of climate, Parts can be purchased individually as needed or as a complete package. VERSATILE DESIGN © Crafted for optimal flexibility during fermentation, Sample, test temperatures, blow off rack or dry hop - 3 variety of setups are available to suit any need, © DESIGNED FOR PRESSURE Holds up to 15 psi of working pressure, Pressure transfer, carbonate, oxygenate and ‘much more, all while keeping oxygen out (© WELDED IN MILWAUKEE All fermenter ports are welded and inspected in Milwaukee, Wl. Unlixe non-welded fermentation tanks, bacteria have no place to hide. PURSUE WHAT'S POSSIBLE|CONTENTS: JUNEJULY 2020 | 90 Modern Mead A contemporary mead renaissance is afoot. Heres the who, what, and how for those ready to explore. Meadmaking (For Brewers) =e (Could you become a meadmaker? Turns out, you already are. You just don’t know it yet, | 5:0n5:Mead MeadmakersottheNewSchoo! ET For beer lovers, mead has gone from Offhradartoanateniongabing wi trend driven by bol favors and rave jy reviews So whatsal hese abou? | Breakout Brewer: From outside the box o top of the beer ratings, they've gained a devoted following for characterful offthewall concoctions. Livingthe: ‘fer year onthe cra cusp, te uimate Brewers beers ae enjoying her moment | Flavor Fever:Pale Lager Randy Mosher onthe surprisingly Complex favor of bery bers S-om:Pale Lagers | Why Decoction Matters Its rom obs Deoton Can ake yout ote (chen destinations Brewers Perspectives: Italian- Frese Waker’ Mat Bxmson tnd Bio IinosAgptne ‘Al goto the source mater | InDetense of Six Row The soem ofthe underoned mak | Flexible Pilsner | Brewing Lager With KC Bier | How toStop Worrying & Lager ie nt Itmay be brewing science, but it Sib y B ait rocket scence. You can brew a great lager faster than you think— Dut not fo fast| CONTENTS | 13 | Infographic 14 | Editors’ Picks & Whale, Bro 20 | LoveHandles BREWING 22 | Special Ingredient Sassatr 24 | Style! 28 | Make Yo Festbier & Welssbier 32 | NoRests for the Wicked: Pastry Stouts Accelerated 46 | Gearhead Side Pulls & Slow Pours PICKSIX 36 | MattTTarpey o{ The Veil in Richmond chooses amixedsixer fullof subtlety and familiar COOKING WITHBEER 38 | Grilling with Lager BREAKOUT BREWERS: 42| 3SonsBrewing 89 | Superstition Me: 98 | CB&BRetail ShopDirectory 95 | Advertiser Index 96 | ChillPiate Chal Bening Magne iS 23-19% cine ISU 253-100 pba kines a arin an, Febuary May iy, Aus and Hover $2398 peers su by United Mea Grup LC aL S. Coleg et Chins, C0824, Pon 8887587080 csonereie® escdbeingcm Praag pit et Cl 0 and atonal maing toes POSTINSTER Sot aes chanes {ott er rning Mize, 3115. Caege Fart Cain, OD 24, Cstane Savi: Ft erin al 8557547080 For sbscigtn os ress hangs etal rt er Brewing Maga, 31 S.C he, Fat lis, 0 8024, subspenseerandhreig com. Ferencrds ste adn US. ols pls stag. The ri ecptin ator oie te Ute Sate an Canad iesiaseus 4) GRAFTBEER :BREWINGOAS aC T(r WHY SETTLE FORA JUG WITH A LID? Enjoy draft beer at your fingertips, with the most convenient, most affordable, most “go anywhere” carbonated growler ever. Available NOW in 640z capacity and two colors. eT TAA Keon]| RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE | HOMEBREW RECIPES Sassafras Forest Wheat Bent Brewstillery Black Joseph15° ‘Jereme2immennan aisten England Maine Peeper Pale Ale Utopian Rebels Svety Lezak Maine Beer Company ob Gallagher Unter dem ZeltFestbier Birnificioltaliano Tipopils st eet ‘Agostino Aro. FourStar Weissbier Riggs American Lager ont Welkert ‘Rigs Beer Company on mee German Chocolate CakeStout ‘Smith & Lentz Versatile Pils Jester olan ‘Smith & Lentz Brewing Medium Sweet Orange Blossom KCBierPis Mead ‘KCB Company KenSchramam ee Pearse FastasHelles SuperstitionSambaHopped Mead _-DrewBeechum yMeadery Page Peo Exharting Vollbier Hell 1967, Brauerel Earting. via Florian Kaplont | CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE| I : LJ ws e i: i S Evan Rl inl ateBeolsacrrb- Randy Moser bos JoshWeiertis Jett AMorthis tte eth Demons 2 from California, writes ting etc for Craft Bor spent most of his career founding member ofthe author of The Ber Bible, San Digo-based beer about beer fom his Brenig Magacne® working on creative proj- Stoney CreekHamebewers, Cider Made Simple, and. journalist and recipient home in Prague, where anda Sights contibu- ects evolving around has medaledimever/BICP The Secrets of Master of the 019 Diversity hehas ved forthe arto oot Beer Hunting, ber Author of Tasting beers, is aBICP Grand Brewers. He canbe in Beer Writing grant bast 20 years. He isthe Shevwas previusy the Beerand four other Masterudge and Cried. found witing about beer_om the Noth American author of The Brewery beereditorat DRAFT Mag- books, he also teaches, Cicerone, and isatvo-tine_at his blog, Beervana, Guild of Beer ites, inthe Boteman Forest —aineandsacertied consults on recipes Eastem Pemnsyvania ‘He alsocohosts the Her work has appeared ‘and many newspaper beerjudge.Shelvesin and branding, and is a Homebrever fhe Year. Beervana Podcast, with in Good Beer Hunting, and magazine articles Missoula Montana, wth partner in wo Chicago-- Heleads a double ile Oregon State University CraftBeeccom, ICE about fod and drinkin alacklaband three area beweres—5 as hejet-setng author ecanomics professor Munchies, and mor the Od Worl bochyard chickens. Rabbit Cerveceria and ofthe Ber: Simpeblog Patrick Emerson, Forbidden Root. (hee-simplecom), 6) cnarracencsnewovewel SELECT INGREDIENTS SUPPORTING YOUR BUSINESS & VISION Order at 800.374.2739 bsgeraftbrewingcom a BSG CrattBrewing| EDITORS NOTE] IAM, BYNATURE, ANOPTIMISTIC PERSON. That should be ‘evident to anyone who reads this note with any fequency, but if you're reading forthe frst ime, there itis in black and waite. One ‘generally must have an optimistic streak to start any type of busi ness, whether thats a media business, a brewery a craft maltste, ‘a brewing-equipment company, or similar, Without the vision and ‘onvition that things can be better in the future, no one would take the risk and put their time, energy, and money on the line. Times like this shake some ofthat optimist’ resolve, Over a period of ust weeks, we watched the craft brewing industry's sales fall precipitously as business restrictions and then stay.atthome orders compelled breweries to close taprooms, dial back production, and fur lough staff. Atthe worst time of the year, when breweries and beer drinkers are shaking off the winter doldrums and ‘gearing up forthe season of outdoor beer garden drinking, a pandemic has fundamentally changed how we shop, how we socialize, and the very hythms ofall our lives. Ithas been an uunsetling experience but one broadly shared as people across the United States and around the world all grapple with similar social-distancing and isolation orders. ‘The bright spot (and you knew I'd find one, as i's clearly in ‘my nature) i that through these difficult times, we have found ‘ways to push forward, Within days of taproom closures, craft brewers launched online ordering with curbside pickup, home delivery, and more. Social drinkers took to video conference platforms to share remote pints. Lapsed homebrewers finally found the time and reason to dust off the brew kettle and get creative. Challenging circumstances have a way of bringing into focus what really matters, and we found the silver linings. The inevitable end of stay-at home restrictions won't mean ‘an instant return to the way things used to be, pe-pandemic Every business that sold beer over a bar before the pandemic faces a long oad to being fully open with the crowds they were used to, Customers’ concems over getting sick won't magically go away just because orders are lifted—we'l all be abit more ‘cautious and conservative. Staffs wll have to be slowly rebuilt a business returns. We will ll grapple with the economic fll- ‘out from the rapa rise in unemployment and the slow process ‘of recovery. A yea from now, the world of craft beer won't look like it did a few months ago, before the world changed. ‘Through it, however, 'm buoyed by the spirit that has driven craft beer from the start—that idea that something better is possible, if we work for it and build it ourselves, together. That ‘same spirit has been on display through brewers’ responses to the pandemic. As the business changes, I suspect that spirit will remain a driving force behind what we do. ‘Whether you long forthe good ol days or face the future with cau ‘ious optimism, we hope you enjoy this issue. We made i for you Bogner founder & Editorial Director, Craft Beer @ Brewing Magazine® jbogner@beerandbrewing.com, @rckstdy on Untappd 8) CRarrarencsnewmne Xrugerfanay Moser van fal Mt Rlsgs fon Verve Josh Weber Justin W Photographer (is ‘ustrators 85 0% amie Bosnee Production ys bvbint Proofreader -) "ct Print Management 1 Faubion ‘Tasting Panel Cy Bong Mark Hoslran [MbttBurton Geoff Cloman Patrick coms (Greg Crum Jester Golaman Fred Fisch ‘MattKunze, Tea Manahan Andy Mitel, Ryan Pachmaver Bran ramos Enc Reansvl, Nathan Rogen Gres Simonds Gray Slater dim Turk yan Waaner Publisher Ha tas ‘Media Experience Manager Hae Ostion FonmmouasaLesmaomIEs 3 c5:8=7S=08:20 (Customer Snccess Manager 80 Thompson Brus ets bocranchnewingcos Pater ersthoerbrew Facebook ac-bookcomératheerandbevang Instagram iar 009 Plnterest zest co/raltbewsbeee Ba SS Cage ve aseersaros Sunscrpton Inguines raf beer anc reung Magnome Calin CO 80524 wabeeranabeewingcom eae aroe708x0 ‘8 College Cat Beer & Brewing Magazine*\spublshed by 3 | Unfiltered SS Malls Goup, wc Cofounder &CB9 J: Biton Gofounder &6C0 fis Bee (600 Haya sraucs Colounderst-pienKoonis PHOTO: HAYDN STRAUSSSree ac Caer etna tur os ena aan Cena eat ae bE ly Racer Mae hee NCE Ela cack int-me scum caleca ae uGbe Nr beer from the beer you're already brewing. Roll the Alchemator into place, connect the hoses to your cellar tanks, press the start button, and start “alchernating" by pulling alcohol and water from your fermented beverage or beer. eelicolecsa ECS I Nite Veta oa CEN c aR aeacoc east + LA/NA Beer Reconstitution Technology Se rete Leet oM ag — + Water Deaeration Technology PEM Reo neta a ncaee Eso CE ose tC Lec Le eae Ovi ee Peres et ee CMe meeeCongratulations to all of the 2020 Medalists! Well deserved. With 2,237 entries in 95 categories, 100 judges, and 3 intense days of tasting... this was our biggest year. And medals were awarded only to those worthy. To view a thorough list of medalists, including beer names, categories, and beer entries per category, please visit us at: BestofCraftBeerAwards.com Cheers. And see you next year! 2020 10 Barrel - Bend, OR 10 Barrel Brewing Innovation Team. GOLD - Bertner-Stye Welsse withwithout Fruit or Flavor Added GOLD - German-Siyle Koolsch GOLD Wixed-Culture Brett Beer or Wild Beer SILVER - American-Siyle Wheat Beer SILVER - Session India Pale Ale or Session Beer BRONZE - Experimental Beer or Other Strong Ale Or Lager BRONZE - Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strang Beer American-Belgo-Siyle Ale GOLD - Reuben Brews GOLD - Bone Brewing SIVER- Ev Czech SER - Segundo Brewing Co, BRONZE Albi Ale Works BRONZE - Danvile Brewing Co. “American-Siye Amber or Rad Ale GOLD - Barret Hour Brewing SILVER - Immersion Brewing el Paar ieee ee as“ Weate hemp tfuagto> Ghat Sopot ae aoe Soha evry banana beer eee ae een eee saectgensteay tan "| tua taatewnanets Sex ieenrysivng Such atin PA GHTTCUate concurs ee ues thecorsye beer memento if ease ens ? pe ee a ee es Boelier (Brewery eee ee eae ae a rer soreness eS , ree ee : i a ee ao a ’ pe eile areata ates ae saasseenets saison rete SILVER iver Cy rowary SIVER-Commenhouse Aleworks plod ean Brewhouse Gul Seam Brewing Co. Sil Fruit Sour Ale Site Sour Ale GOLD - Oneefnch Beers Blending GOLD - luv Dwi Brewing SIVER -Srecoide Brewery SIVER - Wolfe Brewory —— F = Tyee y= re —American-style tout GOLD - New On Lage. Brewing DON SILVER ron Aur Brewing Co, BRONZE Top Rung Brewing Co “American-Siyle Strong Pate Ale GOLD - Break Brewery Deku) SIVER- Rober’ Brows BRONZE - rans of Wrath rowing American-style Wheat Beer GOLD -KesteHouse Brewing Company SAVER - 10 Baret BRONZE - Uta Brewing Company ‘eran Ameo Sf it Lae GOLD Hopusion le Works SILVER - Ex Novo Brewin Corals) BRONZE Quarter Cac Brewpub (Bass Asan tratral-p Pl Ae GOLD - Reuben ewe SIVER- Rock Batom Brewery - La ola BRONZE - Break Brewery (Deku) Baltc-Styl Por 60D - 8g Ash Being SIVER - Fx Brewhouse - Albuquerque BRONZE - Oregon Cty Brewing Ca. Belgan-Siyie Blonde ale o Pal Ale GaLD - Canal Pak Brewing Co SILVER - Redwood Curtain Brewing Co. BRONZE - ld Stove Brewing Co. Belgan-Style Dark strong Ale or Quaa GOLD - pti Family eowers SER - Four Oay fay Brewing BRONZE - Sun King Brewery Belgan-styte Ou GOLD - Texan Brewing Co SILVER - Honkoss Bein Aas BRONZE - Hataz0a Brewing Co. Balgan- Spe Pander Oud Brun rus ad GOLD tiem Family rowers SILVER oly Pumpkin Asan Aes BRONZE -Extovo Brewing Co Aojor-Sy antic Futaba GOLD - Boneyard eer SIVER - Carana Bavernhaus Aes BRONZE -Alesong Brewing and Blanding Beglan-Siyie Pale Strong Ale GOLD - Poseidon Brewing Ca. SILVER - ld Bust Head Brewing Co. BRONZE The Top Brewery Belgan-Sile Tipe GOLD - te Sisters Brewing Co. SILVER - HotazoaBrowing Co, BRONZE - Lauderle Belgan-siyie Wid GOLD - 4 Hands Brewing Co SILER Anthem Brewing BRONZE - Fl rewhouse - Carmel ferret Se Wore rw utr Faeroe GOLD - Wasnt SILVER res Brewing Co BRONZE -ExNovo Brewing - Corrales Bohemian-siyle Psener GOLD = Merotraserie Noire et Blanche SILVER - Ex Novo Brewing - Corrales BRONZE - Wicked Brey Brewing Co Bott Boer GOLD Abate works SILVER Br Fly South Ale Project BRONZE -Stancard re wing Bish tore GOLD - Haye Brewing Co SILVER -Bombshol Bor Co, BRONZE - olden Vly Brewery Britsh-Stye imperil Stout GOLD - Gal One Uquarea trevirg a SILVER The up Brewery BRONZE - Orenence Being r Brown Porter {SOLD Oi Scheatouse Brewery SLVER- Te Creeks Brewin o, BRONZE = Logoat Brewing Co. Chit Pepper Beer (SOLD Sete Down Easy Sewing SLVER- Peter BS Browpub [BRONZE - Pigeon Head Brewery {Chocolate or Cocoa (SOLD - Main & Sx Brewing Co. SER - Sunriver rowing Co. BRONZE - ete Brewing Co Classic French & Begian-Siyle Salon (GOLD - Boeri Brewing Co, SER Prior Ale Nanuactxng Co. BRONZE - Gan Brewing Co. {lassi rish-Syl Dry tout (SOLD - Reuters Brews SLVER- 6 Boars & a Goat Brewing Co, BRONZE - Legion Brewing Co, Coffe Beer {SOLD -E Segundo Brewing Co SER Ordnance Brewing BRONZE - Uno Brewing Contemporary American-StyiePsener (BOLD Wren House rewing C2 SER - Bravehean Brewing BRONZE - Lake Monte Brewing Contemporary Syl orepag-Sye ose (SOLD Catfaus Brewery SER Backstep Brewing Co, BRONZE - Reuben Brews Dortmunder/Eurapean-siyle Export {GOLD Nargan Teritory Brewing SLER- Sunriver roving Co [BRONZE = Kona Brewing Co, ‘Double Hoppy Re Ale riper Red Ale {50L0- Bent are Brewing Co. SUER- Sunriver rowing Co [BRONZE - Halle Brewing Co English-stye Dark Mi Ale or Brown Ale [50L0 Gran Junction Brewing Ca, SER Fx Brewhouse - buguorque BRONZE - clas eric ed Bingo. Engst Sl Summe: Pal ora Pale (GOLD Great asin ewng Co. SER - Woe Brewing BRONZE reatelde Brewery [Deku] ‘Experimental other Strang Ale Or Lager (50LD- Dek Brewing Co. SLVER- Sun King Bowery BRONZE - ID Beret, Expon-siye Stout {50LD- Deion Brewing SER Barrel Younain Brewing BRONZE -lacklt rican Alas old Boor 1D Btvamri Brewing Co. SUVER- Sun King Brewery ‘BRONZE = Kona rewing a, Fruit Weat Beer {SOLD Piipsburg rowing Oo. SER - Pagosa Brewing & Git BRONZE - Pyramid and Portland Bowing German Bock Beer OLD Sockaye Bring SLVER- alin Sk Brewing [BRONZE - NB Custom Brows German-Styte tier {GOLD Redwood Curtain Brewing Co, SSLYER- Thi Wonk Brewing Co, BRONZE - White lu Brewing ‘erman-styte Doppelbock or Elsbock (BOLD ke # Oak rewing Co, SLVER- Morgan Tet Bowing BRONZE -Revelry Bewng German-siyte Koelsch (OLD 10Bare, SLVER- Map Brewing Co, BRONZE - iui Mechanics Brewing hae Sh) Goman-Sye Maran or OcbaresWien GOLD Fix Brewhouse -Abuauerque SVE - Ura Brewing Co BRONZE - Realy Bowing ‘erman-stylePtsener (SOLD - prim Fam Bowers ‘SLVER- Faling Sky Beewing ‘BRONZE - Kishan ewig Co, Serman-Siyle Schwarzber SOLD - Hop Dogma Brewing Ca. ‘SLVER- von Eber Breving Pear BRINE - Redwood Cutan Brewing Co, ‘Gluten-Free Beer SOLD = Evasion Brewing nc. ‘SLYER- Evasion Bowing ne ‘RONE- Eason Brewing Ine. Golden or Blonde Ale (SOLD = Rel Bota Brewery - Lala ‘SLVER- knee Deep Bening Co. BRONZE - eden ats House &Brewng Co and Spice Beer (GOLD Resolute Brewing Co SVE - Local Bowing Co. {RONE - Boric Brewing Co Internatinat-StylePisener SOLD Sun King Bowery ‘SLVER- Map Brewing Co ‘BRONZE - Ravenna Brewing Co, Irish-Styte Re ale OUD - Quarter Calc Brewpub SLVER-Walace Bowing Company LLC [BRONZE -Wrmtown Brewery ule Hazy Imperial or Double PA ‘oud - Yap dor Brewing SSLVER-Moonakee Brewing BRONZE - Widmer raha Brewing ule o Hazy Ina Pale le ‘SOLD = Moonraker Brewing ‘SLVER- Forte Brewing Co, BRINE - Yonamine Sse ancl Stat uly or Hazy Pale Ale {SOLD = reaksde Brewery SVER- Moonraker Brewing BRONZE - sty al Brewing Co ule o Hazy Strong Pale Ale {SOLD = Breaks Brewery» proom SER - Stormbreaker Brewing ‘BRONZE - Wap Brewing Ca, Kellarier or 2wickebier {SOLD - Hao nnovations Brewing ‘SLVER - Hop Dogma Brewing Co. ‘BRON - Weekend Beer Co ‘Mxed-Culture Bret Beer or Wits Beor (GOLD -10Baret. ‘SLVER- Tap Door Brewing BRONZE - Oregon Cy reing Co. ne Sf tivt European SD SOLD Fling Sky Brewing SER - Cade Beer Company ‘BRONZE - Crooked Lane reing Co unien-style Hees (SOLD Grain of Wath Brewing ‘SLVER - Breaks Brewery (Deku) {BRONZE - Lauter Haus Brewing Co, Non-Alcholi Malt Boverage (GOLD = Atak Brewing Ca ‘SLYER- hie Bowing Co. RNZE - Alte Erewng Co. ‘atmeat Sweet, or Cream Stout (SOLD en Pin rewing SVER-Pariwn Brewing Co, {BRONZE - Fue Noch Ale Company ‘ther German-siyle Wheat Beers SOLD -TemplinFarty Brewing ‘SLVER - Cedar Springs Brewing Co, ‘ROE - 10 Bal Brewing Ca, ‘ther Historical Bee Sys (SOLD Vee Brewery SER Lost Cabin Beer Co, ‘BRONZE - Trae ers Brewery ‘ther Lager GOLD - Pigeon Hed Bowery SER Quarter Cet Brewpub BRONZE -Breskide Brewery Pumpkin Spice or Pumpkin/Squash Beer (SOLD Berrewery SIVER- ke 6 Cak Brewing Co ‘BRONZE -Piipsburg Brewing Ca. Robust Porter (SOLD = Gran Aur Brewing Co, SER - Cdr Black Srowory ‘BONE - Soup Brewing SVER- FtyFty Brewing ‘BRONZE - Slack Tide Brewing Co, ‘Scotch ale or Wee Heavy (SOLD - Morgan Tritory Brewing SVER- Bx Novo Bawing = Corales ‘BRONZE - Fx eownous ‘Seottish-syi ale [SOLD = Roe Bot Brewery Lalla ‘SLVER- Bron Aur Brewing Co ‘BRONZE - Cana Park Brewing Co ‘Session india Pale leo Ses (GOLD -Dia ew ‘SWYER- 1DBaret ‘BRONZE - Bron Aur Brewing Co ‘Smoked Beet ‘SOLD Sackaye Brewing ‘SLYER- Hop Dogma Brewing Co. ‘BRONZE - Deschutes Brewery ‘South German-Siye Hefeweizen ‘SOLD ean Brewing co ‘VER - Four Day ay Brewing ‘BRONZE -Walenpaupack Brewing Co ‘Specialty Beer (GOLD = Denver Ber Co, SILVER FtyFty Brewing BRONZE — ty Bowing ‘Specialty Honey Beer (GOLD The ale apothecary ‘SLYER-Oraetinch Bers & Blending ‘BRONZE Rock Bottom Brower Lala ‘Specialty Salon ‘50.0 = Barbarian Brewing 'SLVER- Yon Ebr Brewing (Slondoveo) BRONZE - Sander Brewing ‘Strong Ae or O14 ale {OLD Ser Gy Brewery ‘SLVER- Spied Grain Brewhouse BRONZE The Tap Brewery Vienna-siyo Lager ‘SOLD Lucky Envelope Brewing SSLVER- Breatsde Brewery ‘BRONZE - Noorwork Brewing Wood- and Barel-Aged or Aged Boer {GOLD Siver oon Brewing ‘SLYER- 1D Bart Brewing Co ‘BRONZE -Pipsburg Brewing Co. Wood and Barel-Aged Sour Boor [GOLD -Aesong brewing end Blening ‘SLVER- Bozeman Brewing Co. ‘BRONZE - IB Custom Brews Wood- and Barel-Aged Strong 8 (OLD Deschutes Brewery ‘SLYER-Gateston land Brewing ‘BRONZE - 10 Bare, Woed- and Barel-Aged Strong Sout {GOLD = Fling Sky brewing SLVER- FyFaty Brewing [BRONZE - Ordnance Brewing x J“COMING FROM OUTSIDE OF THE BREWING INDUSTRY, | DIDN'T KNOW WHAT | DIDN'T KNOW. THE BREWERY ACCELERATOR PROGRAM GAVE ME YEARS OF INDUSTRY KNOWLEDGE IN A VERY SHORT SPAN OF TIME, SHORTENING MY DEVELOPMENT TIME TREMENDOUSLY. $O MUCH SO, IN FACT, THAT WE WERE ABLE TO WIN A SILVER MEDAL AT THE GABF IN 2019!” ~ JEREMY DECONCINI, FOUNDER, MOTOSONORA BREWING COMPANY, TUCSON, ARIZONA BREWERY WORKSHOP NEW BREWERY ACCELERATOR Ww NOV1-4, 2020 DENVER, COLORADO THE BREWERY WORKSHOP HELPS BREWERY ENTREPRENEURS BUILD AND GROW GREAT BUSINESSES. THE SPRING 2020 ACCELERATOR SOLD OUT SEVERAL MONTHS BEFORE THE EVENT. RESERVE YOUR SPOT NOW FOR THE FALL 2020 ACCELERATOR AT BREWERYWORKSHOP.COM SPONSORED BY Asse esign Ges GRANDSTAND| THE MASH | COVIDIS Crash Injusta few short weeks, the entire economy (and thebeer industry along with i) wasforced toreckon witha chalengefor which there was no eal playbook With taprooms shut and peopie staying home. breweries that ocused on selingbeer over thetr bar ‘watched their revenue dlsappea and they wen! into survival mode Thelong term effects f the pandemic closuresare unclear but Brewers Association survey oftheir member breweries suggests tha the impact willbe severe. causing tectonic shiftsin the beer landscape HeteS how brewery operators answered the questions posed the data lonttmaket obvious here the ru ‘Your favonte breweries need your business now more than ever Has COVID-19 Have youchanged your business? whehucmee Greckatnatarp) sponse to COVID-19? 0% 40% 204 20% Nochange 105 [BEER NONREWINGCOM | 13Editors Picks sencelsitjustthe taining 1 cnarrerensnewine‘Thelateststories events podcasts and more fromthe Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine™team, Scratch-therural Mino.sbreweryjustnomt nated ora James Beard ard sknown or seasonal range of beersmace trom foreged ingredients Less welnovnis whatthey use {ofermentmosofthose ers thesamestull they usetorasethetrbreads ‘Sept New Date OurSinanmualMinnesota CaftBeer Festvalretumstothentin peapolsComenionCenterforgreat AAS Dbeerfromsomeofthebest breweresin [aia Mnnesotaandacross the county z ‘minnesotacraltbeertestivalcom EDITORS'PICKS 19999 yeticom Youcouldsay weputthecate tration thismodeltheRoadie20 through ongterm reve Over thepast sx yoars wevedraen actossthe country couple times ifort ‘bens Issued review beer torent tasting Banellocationsitskept propbee cold forphoto Shoots anditheptngscoldthat onetime we {thought wouldbeagoodideato shoot Cooking \withBeerphotosatapnicsteatthereser oi ‘Weeveforgstentockan tandhad toscrubout ‘mold ancour photographer Mat has used asastepsoolmeretananre Weveusedand Abuse ands stnnear perfect condition, ‘Thehanclefoamisminttherubber closure palsstilrequiesignifcantarmstengthto close, andi'stilheepsbeer caidfor days ‘Sowe were ete tosee this successor announced for that tietand true tle cook ‘Thisnew iteration boasts fewnew tricks suchas20 percentage interior capacty Aandatalorformfactor hat he manuilacturer assures us) wl ftabotteof wine We can Confirm trough our wn esting that wal hold uptoabalfdozen corkedandcaged 72Omlbeer bottiesstancing upright Youcan squeezeina caseofieczcansoradozen ‘rowers(on theirsies.ifyousodesie "Ncetouches suchasthe hinged clcsures Jetleveragedo the hard work Arlthe carrying ssrapthat replaces the meal bandlesttachedt ‘witha rotating ture tates torts fal sntoplace-aclever design deta "The Yet onde 24 worltmake your baer ‘astebetterbutifyoutelkeusandapprecate \wellmade gear thatstandsuptoharusefor ‘many many years andlooks good doing this ‘new Roadie shouldbeon your ist 8. Novi4 New Dete!Understaning thechallenges inopeningor aqunngabrewery ino ‘important thanever Thsevert wile ‘youbuidasicorsstulbreingbusiness Team through panel Q&As technical {curs hanson demes andmore, Breweryworkshopcom ‘TheLatestfromthe Oe » ‘eA ApstmansPalAmesen Reagleecaraetaly stig comer Lian chesnut Feian Kup on Brea aom SSuiveirernicsnthekrporeredl teas Taner tear es Founders Betsey Hy XS, Michgantbycsnsponamouatemtapn Joey fay Beer onan Apo Tear bene Beyer CreComforson Wood Apne “TeyLawenancBoneyarion aso eps ane esting Osan Wurstosckah Won Wns Statsordakgyemes nnn bares ‘enstrunaBenksreon Creer Psat Iowsoiewea a Ma Taper o Mee i ew Wit rye pects ‘Absa yep abel bebeicen ga ‘ote coandiran Neonat ye Parken Sy Desi Reeser PotsonDeveopn er ae th Sousandtuey Pas Vortmcundrennecanpadcatsobtrantadrrte GREER EERE EEE| THE MASH | EDITORS’ PICKS Stay at home for week: beer? Be serious please. Tasscetvery iydevotedto ‘This wide alcohol delivery app particulariy th idspecial va. hasbeen flourishingin the age of social Inthe age of COVID9, weve all ety, Optionally, youcan recelveanemail distancing How it works Liquor stores been getting to know our onceortwiceperday thatdescribesin _and bottleshops sign up and registe families better-and cur beer: FOMOstokingdetailthehotnnewbottles thelr inventories Youuse the app t ; 5 orcansthathavejustbecomeavallable _browseand {fll your cart. and the shop ordering platforms. Here They get somereal scorchers too from delivers your purchase to your door rundown of some of the options, breweries suchas Anchorage. Jester step-often in essthanan hout.if you and what makes each app King,Side Project, WeldWerks,andmany _livein thecity. The downside: In more n47states Thedownside-They _ sparsely populated areas service may be peabletodelvertoyourstale rlonexistentor may requrea few days yet. depending on local laws. time plushigh shipping fees useful (or nob). Primarily thisisanapptohelpabrewery Similar toDrily, connecting with lo range thingssuchasspecialreleases, liquor inde quick delive boltlemembership to your doors-if youre ina major metro thereisa consume nganadaressin yoniecan download eres in their area Washington, Jehan abe creck cose a Wastungton DC ationals and art an Su eso nightbeusingittomakebeer available _argeregionals with virtually no locally The appmakesiteasy to reserve an brewed beers (That may change with ee purchasebeer as wellasaiftcards.swag. your nelghborhood and affliated store ate and tipsor donations tokeep your Sil. there were enough options to find favonte taproom staf fed unt this thing sat beer if you dont demand wide plows over Downsideltsuselessunless Selection andiiveinabigenoughely breweries ear you are into Better Still. Go directly to the websites, Instagram pages, or otherwise most frequented social-media haunts of your favorite local breweries Many of them have worked out their own safe and convenient ways to sell you their beer directly. They're usinga variety of platforms for this: services suchas Square, Arryved, Craftpeak, 2111 2nd Kitchen 2Go. Butin the best cases, you wont notice or care, as you simply lickety-click and procure your beer for pickup or delivery within a few s Itmay not beas fun as sitting at their taproom barsand filing their ears with our opinions But itll do for now. JSWithout LOCAL BUSINESSES, we wouldn't be where we are today. As Deu mee se tS re Reo Rel merce eee LL oath By| THE MASH | 18) CRAFTBEER< BREWINGThe 0.3L Rastal Aviero Goblet CLT) PSE) PRO) ILondon, England ‘This comfy pub is dedicated to serving caskale from smaller, ndependent British brewers And cider. And meat. (Whatitis: Southhampton Arms isa neigh borhood pub with a dozen handpulls of cask ale and six more of cider, plus a devotion to meat in the form of thick pies and crackling roast pork sandwich rolls. The piano in back gets some play as does the small ber garden. The pub cats are named Pork Pie and Scratchings. Getting there takes some planning if youre a tours: is a healtay walk from either Kentish Town or Gospel (Oak sation, but well worth the hike. ‘Whry t's great: Those gorgeous handpulls pour perfectly kept ale and cider, all of t from Britains smaller, independent brew. cers and cidermakers. The pub itself inde pendent too—ie, ita free house—so they can carefully choose what they sere, ina variety of styles, The meat pies are superb, ‘When the piano isn in use, the turntable plays records that are as cleverly chosen as the ales, No reservations, no phone, and tno WiFi. Instead, there are long tables to share with fellow punters, so put your ‘phone away and make frends. —Joe Stange om Bours: 12 p.m.-I1 p.m. orlater, daily Addtress: 139 Highgate Road, Kentish ‘Town, London NWS ILE, United Kingdom (Webs thesouthamptonarms.co.uk 20 | CRAFTHEER BREWING Beer Revolution Cakland, California ‘This classic beer bar offers a huge se lection of craft brews carefully selected by knowledgeable and friendly staff ‘Whatitis: Beer Revolution is an unpre: tentious beer bar and bottle shop near Jack London Square, offering 50 taps of curated craft drafts. IFthat’s not enough, there's a bonazia of bottles and cans from which to choose. Beer Revolution’ selec tion leans heavily toward local beer, but when “local” includes California heavy weights such as Russian River, Botle Logic, and Cellador Ales, it's impossible to {el limited by the dizzying aray of styles, Way its great It's not easy to find places with great service, great beer, and great ambiance—but Beer Revolution manages to rail all three. The vibe indoors is dassic beer bar: Beer stickers cover almost every surface, andthe signature mural ofa hand clasping ‘pint glass dominates the wall adjacent to the entrance, Outside fod is allowed fand ‘her's killer vegan soul food restaurant next door. na iy that’ undergone a food and:-drink renaissance over the past decade, this chapel of craft still manages to impress beer culture-entrenched comrades as much as those new tothe “revolution” Bonus tip Ws open on Christmas, —Beth Demmon my ‘Hours: Noon-Il p.m, Sunday-Thursday Noon-midnight, Friday & Saturday ‘Address 464"Third St, Oakland, California Web: beer-revolution com. Miami Florida This perfect stop for beer is creative enough to belong among the colorful ‘murals of the Wynwood Arts District. ‘Whaatitis: Boxelderis an unexpected and sleek craft-beer bar and bottle shop in one of Miami’ hottest neighborhoods. Boxelders long bar and small back patio welcome visitors exploring the street art of the surrounding neighborhood, The taplist isa who’ who of hot brewers from Florida and beyond, laid atop a foundation of craft classics, Service is friendly but quick and noffuss, andthe to-go selection offers plenty of world-class beer youd never find in Florida's liquor and grocery stores. ‘Whayit’s great: Modern yet comfortable and cool without being pretentious, Boxelder preaches the craft beer gospel toa diverse and international crowd. The thoughtful, nuanced beer menu runs the gamut from classic lagers to hipster haze. You don't develop a tap and bottle lis ike this by accident—it's thoughtfully curated with beers procured through relationships and trust earned. —Jamie Bogner En Hours: 4 p:m.-10 p.m, Monday: 1 psm-I2 am, Tuesday Thursday 1 pm.2am. Friday 1 pam.t0 pm. Sunday Address: 2817 NW 2nd Ave., Miami, Florida Web: bxldr.com éclam (ol0);} NOW WITH MORE COLORS Can Labels OM VELA cas QUICKER The INX 2-Piece Metal Color Catalog is the industry’s only true color standard for 2-piece metal can design. The Advan munication tool contains over metal; not paper. Brant designers, and metal decorators have a true representation of color, and can select, communicate, and approve color efficiently —reducing to market quicker. mes getting labels www.inxcatalog.com Inx international nk Co, GREAT THINGS ea Cz| THE MASH-SPECIAL INGREDIENT | ‘This distinctively spicy folk ingredient has along tradition of going into American drinks, including beer-though it comes witha few disclaim: ers. Ready to forage? LETSGOBACKTO our ots, s0 10 would definitely say to not overdo speak, and look ata traditional Ameri says Jereme Zimmerman, author can ingredient that can add some com- of Brew Beer Like a Yet: Traditional forting sweet-shop spice to your beer. Techniques and Recipes for Unconvention- In the American context, sassafias al Ales, Gruits, and Other Ferments Using refers to Sassafras albidum, a deciduous Minimal Hops tree that grows in forests across much of "Part of the safety concern isif you the eastern United States. Ithasalong ingest it in huge amounts, which would history offolluse—in homemade root mean pounds upon pounds ina batch beer, sassafias tea, and in the flé powder of beer and drinking nothing but that used to thicken Cajun gumbo. Long beer for weeks or months ata time,” before tha, people in Europe and Asia Zimmerman says. “But on a practical found medicinal and flavor uses fort level it'sa really strong flavor, so you Here's the caveat: The Food and don't need much. [love the flavor, s0 1 Drug Administration banned it from don't mind overdoing ita bit” commercial food and drinks 60 years Sassafras character, as favor and ago, after mice who were fed massive aroma, is something like a gentler amounts of it developed cancer and licorice or anise, but not quite—you liver damage. These days, commercial _can also imagine the tase of root beer root beer successfully imitates the taste ofthe smell fan old-fashioned sweet without using actual sassafras, shop. Zimmerman says he finds itto However, in small doses, i's widely be compatible with Belgian-style ales regarded tobe harmless to humans. and suggest it for holiday beers such as dark ales, porters, or stots. It may ‘need to hug some malt to work best. “Tt might be a bit much in a lager or alight pale” he says ‘So, where to find it? In certain states in the lower Midwest, the South, and along the East Coast, you might be able to hunt sassafias on a walk through the woods, “For those who are foraging-minded and are in Appalachia, is pretty easy to find a sassafras grove and dig up a couple of roots,” Zimmerman says. He also sug gests an alternative for people in the Southwest: osha root. "Its not an exact replica ofthe flavor of sassafias, but there are alot of similarities,” he says, Other options: Ask at your local health food store or order some online. Zimmerman recom: rmends the website of Mountain Rose Herbs: “They have a great supply of herbs and are very ethical and sustainable in their foraging he says. —Joe Stange MAKEIT Sassafras Forest Wheat We have adapted this recipe fora woodsy sassaffa ale from Jereme Zimmermanis book, Baw Beer Lea Ye "You can use sas safras favoring ifyou prefer, but ike to use the ral thing” he writes, “Tako like toadd litle bits ofthe forest when making this, ‘such as sprice tips and oak bare... You can really ake this basc formula and substitute various flavoring ingredients, malts, and yeasts to make what sounds good” For yeast,Zimmenman leaves ito dealer's ‘choice—American, Belgian British, bakers yeast, do what feels right—but we think ‘Norwegian kveik strain sa good ft here. Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters) 0G: 1.085 FG: 1011 IBUs: 5 ABV: 4456 MALTEILL 5 Ib (2.3 kg) wheat dry malt extract (DME) HOPS ADDITIONSSCHEDULE 2.6 Ths (38 ml) sassafras root at 60 minutes (0.25 02 (7 East Kent Goldings at 30 minutes (optional 1.5 tsp (12 m) dried orange peel at ‘0 minutes (optional) 5 spruce tips at 0 minutes 53.3 Ths (49 ml) oak cambium (inner bark) post boil yeast ‘Omega OYL-061 Voss Kveik DIRECTIONS Bring 5 gallons (19 lites) of water just toa bol. Stirin the DME until ally dissolved, Add the sassafras. Reduce the |heat to maintain a slight boil for 60 min. ‘utes, adding hops and additions accord ing to the schedule. After 60 minutes, cut off the heat, then add the oak bark. Chill and aerate the wort, then pitch the yeast. If possible, ferment at 95-104 (35— 40°Q). When fermentation is complete, prime and botle or keg and carbonateFROM FIELD SEAS As the world recovers, we're here to help your business continue “(mr * Pee MCR (eet mT esi oe CMT Rola et] G oe Mote Role aut Olan 5 4, et Pears a ketu Nas ciet kun acre UVa cel te Ae) } f vyHOOL | STYLESCHOOL ri Pale Ale: Hopsin Hannony Our yuntrys signi ure flavor profile was notborn in Burton, butin the hop flelds of Oregon. Jeff Alworth explains WHEN YOULOOK AT the history and evolution ofa sje, itis typical to follow the beer The story of pale ale usualy leads back to Burton upon Trent in the English Midlands. Itinvolves colorful phrases such as “borehole, “union system,” and "Burton snatch.” Its a really good story. Yet forthe evolution of American pale ale, it makes _more sense to follow the hops. ‘That story starts in 1956 in Corvallis, (Oregon, where a plant researcher working for the USDA had planted 7,000 seedlings ‘of new hop crosses, hoping to find avai ey resistant to downy mildew. Developing new varieties of hops isa slow business Eventually, over the next 12 years, one of those litte sedlings—No, 56013 —worked its way through successive rounds of climinations and field trials. In 1968, the fist commercial crop ofthe new hop—now called Cascade—came off two acres of Don Weathers’ farm near Salem, Oregon. Writing in Brewers Digest jn 1972, the researchers noted that it was the first American hop with measurable farnesene—an aromatic compound found in classic Nobles such as Saaz and Tettnanger. They continued optimistically, “The aroma of Cascade is delicate, slightly spicy... Aroma notes associated with (Cluster, Brewers Gold, Bullion, and Talis ‘man and described as ‘American aroma’ are absent or very subdued in Cascade "The researchers were excited to have a do- mestic hop that had a "Noble character 24) CRAFTREER BREWING they believed the acid profile resembled Hallertauer Mitelfrolh—and might replace imported aroma hops. Domestic breweries, meanwhile, were hopeful that it would save them lot of money on ther light lagers. Both were wildy, amusingly wrong. ‘American pale ales are, of course, descended from the famous ones brewed in Burton, but their nature goes back to that first modern domestic hop breed. It {is nearly impossible to imagine the series ‘of events leading to ultra-uicy hazy IPAs without American hops and their unusu al, highly ignoble character Ital started with those Cascades, which one brewer in particular hamessed in pale ales, a beer style that created the template for the American palate ‘The Cascade Pales The frst beer to tap into the power of Cascade was a celebratory beer brewed in advance of the American bicentennial in 1975. The Anchor Brewery made a robust ale of 5.9 percent ABV hopped exclusively Ttisnearly impos ssible to imagine the with Cascade—47 IBUs worth. It was not a big seller, and is full, fruity profile wasn't quite where beers would eventually go. Nevertheless, it must have turned heads in the same year that Mille was launching the first national light bee. ‘The more important beer arrived five year later, in a green bottle. Sierra Nevada ‘was among that ist cohort of founding breweries, and is first beer was Pale Ale Cofounder Ken Grossman tells the story of why that was the first beet. “I was an avid homebrewer, starting back in 1969 and brewed through the 1970s and ran a hhomebrewing supply store that | founded in 1976" He used British ales asa template but didnt want to replicate them. Instead, he wanted something that tasted local. “I) chose the Cascade hop as about the only signature American aroma hop atthe time: ‘That ‘signature” aroma was exactly the problem domestic breweries had with it— it was too American, too obviously lacking in Noble hop character. It wasnt harsh like Custer, butt certainly wasnt European, e: ther. For Grossman, that was the appeal.“ was aware ofthe Cascade hop when i got launched and popularized. I brewed with itasa homebrewer from prety early on. It ‘was my familiarity with that hop and the distinctive nature ofthe aroma—the piney citrus—that I appreciated and enjoyed and wanted to incorporate into our pale ale: ‘The original formulation ofthat beer con tained three elements that would become blueprint for American brewing over the next 30 years, He used a neutral yeast, a decent dollop of crystal malt for a sweet, caramel note, and those unique local hops. "The process didn cal for dry hopping (thouigh Sierra used that technique in Cel eration) but instead for large infusions of late-boil Cascades. The rich note of caramel series of events leading to ultra-juicy hazy IPAs without Ame! can hops and their unusual, highly igno- ble character It all started with those Cascades.Fromold school tonew school.a few of our favoritesof thestyle Boulevard Pale Ale ‘oundatioa lass, hs bo ated Balad in 1989—but thet the brand wet nation, these ad fen ut fashion. ts shane because tsi an ot the bestin th cout —with a bread mal backbene, ight isso eaamel refreshing sap of iteness, anda subtle erat punch ap smack that has eed erie ecates fisting yan ly nthe tongue. [ABU 54% Lees Kansas iy Missa Fremont Brewing cones ronal snl tee, nce wy athe tal ame tsa a wh oars ne {Conc Cayo and png pes iia the wet dtcon ren te poche ek toto oynrand espn Spe AaBv.s% Los ute Mann Pune and right mango and = ets et wth Confit unabases tees, cements poston as ethane ar dst American pal al Lard King felcreatie et camfortable with a pete crafted boty that amples theres tpka-hp rts witout log sp deal the wa tough thei. ABV: 5% Loe: Chicago ois Cellarmaker Tiny Dankster Du alta Nor England style ate fos at Callarmalr hve ver intentional designed tis unto, i ay ae wt aver pal that’s mae: etn st han East oiatve wth pil ut undertone that es mae Marah sagron anc tan rt soa, is exquisite in sgt eating and balance. [ABU 57% Loe: San ane, Catomia Old Ox AlphaOx terrae iia breve et mare ype al Od Ox esis nal a range of sys wth consistent excelence and Character This anes where een Adve bak nto Ameian pl Emanates righ orange pein th ase shin crus-ap args juy exh om ty weet al Releshing it, ever ash, fly ule, Nena tobrak new rnd whe the ecutin lawless ABV. (5% Loe: kh, Virgie 26 | CRAFTBEER BREWING ‘sweetness was a perfect counterpoint to (shat was then considered) an intense bitterness, butt also drew out the sweeter, fruity quality of American hops. It was. such a winning combination of favors that almost every brewery in America imitated it Pale ales based on this template would remain the most popular style in the craft segment all the way until 20 Comes the Juice “That year marked an important transition point—not ust inthe popularity of pale ales but inthe way Americans made hoppy beers. Brewers had been using hops for neatly a thousand years, and over that time, the underlying philosophy essentially hadn't changed. Unlike other herbs, hops act as an antimicrobial agent, so brewers boiled them in wortso the beer would keep longer. Whether a beer was strongly or weakly hopped, brewers put most or ll of the hops ina the start of boil ‘Americans eventually tured that conven: tional practice om its head. Americans hops had been bred for maximurn bittring po tential and, for atime, IPAs were extremeh bitter—a consequence of using high-alpha hhops in quantity throughout the process. Yet by the mid.20008, brewers were increas: ingly going after the intense tropical-fruit flavors that American hops could provide, rather than thei bitterness, To extract those flavors, they used more and more hops, but later and later in the process. The emer. gence of juicy American-style IPAS has been one ofthe watershed developments in brewing: the flavors and aromas were un- precedented, and brewers were using hops in ways that would have been inconceivable even a decade earlier. ‘This evolution put all the attention on PAs, butit did no favors for ale ales, which continued to be brewed more or less as Grossman had done it 30 years earlier. ‘They became dated; ifbrewers wanted to ‘make loweralcohol hop bornbs, they made session IPAs instead. Bu those beers were engineered to showcase hops, not balance, which was the hallmark ofthe American pale ale. I rcal talking toa brewer about this in 2014, He went on and on about how ‘wonderful a great pale was—but he didn't brew one himself. Surprised, I asked why not. “I can‘ sell them he said ruefully ‘The Dry-Hopped Pales Fortunately not long after tht conver: sation, pale ale 2.0 emerged beers that strike a balance between the drinkabilty of the first era and the hoppy saturation of the second, One ofthe great champions of modem pales is Dan Kleban, who found: ed Maine Beer Company wit his brother in 2009. They launched the brewery on : & i ithe strength ofa pale ale with which they fallen in love: their Aagship Peeper. Inthe years since, they've added Mo and A Tiny Beautiful Some. thing. These beers aren't session IPAs—they're proper pales, with body and malt character andthe kind of sessionability that makes you want to sitin the pub and watch the snow fly forfour hours while drinking them. ‘The key change is dry hopping, a technique that American brewers use ‘on just about every beer these days—it's almost tc like bottle conditioning among Belgians—but that wasn't common in 1980. Sierra "Nevada Pale Ale isnt dry-hopped and never has been. But moder pales? ‘In my mind you can't make a hoppy beer without dry hopping, at least by my definition” Kleban tells me. Ifyou want aroma, he says, “dry hopping is essentia.” Peeper uses 1.5 pounds per bareel of dry hops, a relatively modest amount by today’s standards, But compare it to 1980. In his book Beyond the Pale, Grossman writes that they used about a pound of hops per barrel, total, in their Pale Ale. Maine's pale ales ae great examples of where the style has migrated: a juicer quality, less caramel, but still with mal sweetness and flavor—and ‘importantly, that sense of harmony and balance that defines the style. ‘American pale ales are certainly descended from those brewed in Burton, but the thing that defines them came from fields inthe Wills: ‘mete Valley. During 40 years of craft brewing, they have evolved into expressive, juicy examples. One doesn't have to look too closely, however, to draw a line straight back to 1980 (or 197), to the time that distinct favor was first used in American brewing, Ithas defined the country’ signature flavor profile ever since. MAKEIT Maine Peeper Pale Ale Here is a homebrew-scale recipe forthe beer that got all started for Maine Beer Com: pany in 2009, Cofounders Dan and David Kleban brewed Peepet—over and over—on a ‘one-barrel system until they were happy with the results. Its a superb example of a mod: ‘em, brightly aromatic American pale ale Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters) Brewhouseefficiency: )2°: 0G: 1057 FG: 1.006 BUS: 32 ABV: 5.49% ‘MALT/GRAINBILL 77h (3.5 kg) Briess Brewers 2-Row 8.02 (227g) Briess Carapils 602 (170 g) Briess Vienna {6.02 (170 g) Briess Red Wheat Malt HOPS ADDITIONSSCHEDULE (0.2.02 (6 g) Magnum [14% AA] at 60 minutes 1 Whirlfloc tablet at 15 minutes 0.102 (3g) Amarillo [8.3% AA] at 10 minutes, (0.102 (3g) Cascade [6.3% AA] at 10 minutes (0.102 (3g) Centennial [10.6% AA at 10, es 0.55 02 (16 g) Amarillo [8.3% AA] at whirlpool 10.35 02 (16 g) Cascade (6.3% AA] at whirlpool (0.55 oz (16 g) Centennial [10.656] at whirlpool 1.40 (40 g) Amarillo, dry hop on Day? 11402 (0 g) Centennial, dry hop on Day 7 YEAST ‘Wyeast 1056 American Ale DIRECTIONS Mill the grains and mash at 150°F (66°C) for {60 minutes. Vorlauf until the runnings are ‘lear, then run off into the kettle. Sparge and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 liters) of wort—or more, depending on your ‘evaporation rate, Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops and Whislfloc according tothe sched: ule. After the boil, chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 66°F (09°Q. Aerate the wort and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 68°F (20°C) adding the dry hops after I week. After 5 days on the hops, rack into secondary or cold crash and package.| MAKE YOUR BEST | \\_4 HOMEBREWING i i Going beyond the simple question of ‘what" and instead exploring the why" will help you understand how to design and brew better beers By Josh Weilkert Festbier This ott the Arr ofthe aplewe hvecometo ao S onobert Feber the ber ty sculy vent Ober isles dear lee a and babe hee he ng erty anata acer yo se at ey Shed a lshasetnthe btm she Gomansar Sicimersos Ups dows Backs white Hak ou ow Sibert ast enn eeber sna? Bae digest Seertow emake die tee Sipe: god punto onprsonis ler kaka. Mab, Thy ae i arbre ee at tes ents ote bt seein gut anc nrc hop er snd sae he pide ins ete aptly maton btin sh xml an tach orageeertiareeed tal hope ncaa nd aca apy Cee bn ithe searing biter mye eft tat npeson sas ey. depsoel ceanwihnayaneser or pool orton toe ond TES beabcto rats inrl anda er fr veteran Ingres: ag mals onsite th but the rst pier and Nach pss tak of Vis The eadng ak decer ce mahal na stig infor sn cle Se hp hs ae wena nt [nd alors nee sos mitre fred sand fave shoud bette nt Sn gat lt ncn gsr 20 Us shard to owed wh ele hp pcan aber sub eng mms, nth Lage esere ser omen Tontoshmene bend na ae Proceat ht and bala len il and was o our rote rod ne ocd ued ach nhs roe Remon tcperte S07 U0) Tike or tine the sorb tr quck ean Aer shoud Soe tunpupt empty srubeltaedop atte we Seta neen corse uh rteaye Th hls production, yielding a squeaky: | wen puelge Coca gender siete St ning but ening usoncar bere sutures tara Brow an merase Oxo to adie yeurcns wae Or sat white albert he warm ston Strand taritone heanber ne othe ening nie cae yal Gad ou were gta CEE Eee 8 i i MAKEIT Unter dem Zelt Festbier Slow and steady wins this race, so plan ahead to have this ready in plenty oftime for your favorite Oktoberfest party. Also, don't be afraid of the hopping here: a fresh, grassy, floral hops nose isa perfect fit for the bready ‘malts in this grist. Prost! Batch size: 5 gallons (19 liters) Brewhouseetficiency: 72° (06: 1.056 FG: 1014 Bus: 23 ABV 575% MALTEILL ‘Ib (4.1 kg) German pilsner 1b (454 g) Munich 8.02 (227 g) Victory HOPSSCHEDULE 1.5 02 (43 g) Hallertauer Mittlfrh (496 AA] at 30 minutes 1.5 o7 (43 g) Halletauer Mitel [4% AA] at minutes YEAST ‘Wyeast 2308 Munich Lager DIRECTIONS Mill the grains and mix with 3:3 gallons (124 liters) of 163°F (72°C) strike water to reach a ‘mash temperature of 152°F (67°C), Hold there for 60 minutes. Voriauf until the runnings are lear. Sparge the grains with 4 gallons (15, liters) and top up as necessary o obtain 6 gal- lons (23 liters) of wort. Bol for 60 minutes following the hops schedule. ‘After the boil, chil the wort to slightly below fermen: tation temperature, about SO'F (10°O) Aerate the wort with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch the yeast. Fer- ‘ment at 50°F (10°C) for 10, ays, then let the tempera- ture rise to 54°F (12°C) for about 4 days. After that, let the temperature fiee rise to room temperature and hold for 2 days, Cold crash to 35°F (2°0) for 48 hours, then lager for at least 6 weeks, Bottle or keg, and carbonate toabout 2.25 volumes,BATTS INDUSTRY GUIDE BREWINGINDUSTRYGUIDE.COM/SUBSCRIPTIONIM » 8 Cee ee eee IAKE YOUR BEST | « Weissbier Racin ee fe : Attaonsshietn, tisucoecCtepetcmmeternie, BU MCLSSOICIS from its flavor profile to its ight, fuffy body —heck, even the way sunlight illuminates its hazy, golden coor Don't bother with a yeast starter oxygenation, Style: A world-assc sje, weissbier isa pale drinkable wheat beer or cold crashing here. We want the Yeast with modest ABV, vietally no bitemess, anda distinctive appearance “strugling”to produce a nice, noticeable and favor profile. By tradition, the grist sat east halfmalted wheat, _estr/phenol profile, andthe cloudiness is no ‘which contibutes a nice bready background. Grist isnt where the vie ina wei. interes is here, though—what really makes a weissbir i its yeast. ‘The traditional strains are persistent non-fioeculators. Most lave a lot AE cof yeatin suspension, which adds a unique mouthfeel. More import ant though, ae the characteristic esters and phenols—specifiall,_Batehsine:5 gallons (19 liters) trademark aromatics of banana and dove. Want to know ifyoure -—-Brewhouseeliciency: 725 holding wessbier? Give ita sift. 06: 1.051 Ingredients: To be true tits history at leat 50 percent ofthe FG1.013, agrst should be malted wheat but go higher—as high as ean and HU 10 relabylauter and sparg without getting tuck. In combination with ABW: 5% floormalte plsne, you should get some great low-Lovbond bread and. biseuit aromatics wih a touch of honey. You can stop here, but‘ MALT/GRAINBILL ifyou want to adda bit mor light malt favor (which I recommend), 5b (23g) wheat malt add just a dash of your favorite 20sh Lovibond character malt uch 4Ib (8 kg) loormalted Bohemian pilner as Victor). Alternatively go the waditional route i'youhave the 402 (113g) Victory time) and doa decoction mash, Finally, some rice hulls will help you 8 oz (227g ice hulls ‘mash al that gummy wheat. Hops are simple here: about 10 IBUs of anything, right at the star of the bil Something German, suchas‘ HOPSSCHEDULE Halletaer orTettnanger is more authentic but in a pinch, 've used 0.5 oz (4g) Hallertauer Mitelfth (5% AA] at generic bittering hops with no obvious ill eects. yous want more GD mites fioral notes in your final product, Keep the 1BUs level but uy a single 30-minute veast addition instead ofa 60-minute, ‘Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen adjusting forthe lower isomerization devel. As fr yeas, there’ only one DinECTIONS answer here in my book: The dassic ‘Weihenstephan stain, Process: Doughin with the rce hulls along wih the grains: The sce lls wl help prevent a stuck Inutr/sparge. Bol ssa, chil, and pitch—but dont go overboard. Fin not felling you to deliberately under pitch, that dot iake whatever steps you nor rally take to encourage yeast growth Don't grow up a starter Dont ongenate the wort One smackpack, no caygen or aeration. Why? Because if you provide too, ‘uch help, your yeast may not produce the favors you want, Unstressed yeast will coast through and produce mini esters {and phenols, ve found), Less is more hete Enjoy the break. Ferment warnih, Youll maice changes inthe esters and phenals you tinker with the temperature find 66" (1°) tobe righton the money, Itresult ina good balance between fay and spicy, without ‘wandering too fa into bubblegum and Pepper. Dont cold crash just package nd carbonate toa healthy 25 volumes {9f CO, You can dink this one right way, but itcan age surprisingly well it youstoreit cold 8 Mill the grains and mix with the rice hulls ‘Add 29 gallons (1 liters) of 163°F (73°C) strike water to reach a mash temperature (of 152°F (67°C), Hold there for 0 minutes. Vorlauf until the runnings ae cleat. Sparge the grains with 44 gallons (167 liters), top- ping up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 ters) of wort Boil for 60 minutes, following the hops schedule, After the boil, chill the ‘wort to slightly below fermentation tempera- ture, about 65°F (18°C), and pitch the yeast. Ferment at 66°F (19°C) until the completion of primary fermentation, then bottle or keg and carbonate to about 2.5 volumes,Learnto With Craft Beer & Brewing Online Classes! Are you new to brewing ordo you want to improve irbrewing skills? Craft Beer & Brewing onlinelearn: platform canhelp youbecomea better brewer, one ‘atime 40 classes led by CB&B staftc lable for purchase either as orthroughalow monthly sub Brewing Milkshake ‘The Secrets to Brewing Great Lagers &Sour IPAs with Coffee & Beer: From Roasting to Brewing. Narrow’ Introductory Extract Brewing in ee Introductory Al-Grain & Partial Mash Brewing Pe engine YourBeo? brew greatmishake andsour IPAS ‘Adding Flavors to Beer ‘Temperature Control for Lagering ‘Home Draft System Setup Brewing Water ‘Wood Aging Your Beer vanced Packaging Methods SEE EE Make the Most of Your Extract Kit Your Brewery with ‘Fundamentals of Malt 2nd Shift: Advanced All-Grain Methods Steve Crider founder brewer andy ‘Advanced Yeast Management rmanat2nd ShiftBrewinginSt Lous, Hot Rod Your Kettles and Mash Tun shares hisknove-how on keepinga How to Build Your Electric Brewery,1&2 brewery running and whattodo How toMake Great Mead ‘when tings break doom Fundamentals of Opening a Brewery Hops: How to Best Use the Spice of Beer Introduction to Evaluating Beer ‘Troubleshooting Your Beer Recipe Development From Start-to-Finish How to Adjunct Like Weldwerks How to Brew Great Stouts Introduction to Cider Making Visitnow fora free preview beerandbrewing.com/learn| EXTRACT BREWING NORESTSFOR THE WICKED Did youeverno were encyclopedi Thisseries by Jester Goleman on extracting the EVERY HOMEBREW CLUBHAS their cadre of old hands whe have been brewing allgrain batches almost forever ‘They're used to running triple decoctions in their sleep, and they've worked their way through every category in the BJCP Style Guide—both the 2008 and 2015, editions (don't get me started on 2004) ‘Well, this series isnot for them. Instead, we're going to look at beers that might seem daunting toa new or intermediate brewer, and we'll beak them down into something more approachable Well focus on extractor partial mash recipes, with some discussion of how to simplify the process. ‘Weill kick things ff with a suitable chal lenge of a beer defined by its intensity. Pastry Stout 101 The name “pasty stout” started as ade rogatory dismissal from people who would argue whether these should even qualify as beers. Where normal styles look for balance, pasty stouts embrace the moto, “Too ‘much is never enough.” Where a normal imperial stout might be somewhat ageres- sive with alcohol and rich malt characte, these start as heayyweight, oversweetened siants, layering in adjuncts and flavoring to create a decidedly not so-beeny drinking ex perience. Drawing on sweets for inspiration, they aim to create the experience of some: thing such as tiramisu, pecan pie, or peach cobbler a iit were wrung into bottle. Even those who hate the thought of| brewing one have to admit that it’s a tough 32 | CRAPTBEERSnnEWING one of those Inow'itall grain veteran homebrewers who icontopicssuch asmult {for them Welcome toNoRestsfor the Wicked, anow series tepmashesand glucans? Yeah. character from extractrewing, beer to make ftom star to finish. The first challenge is the base beer. A good imperial stout requires a hefty malt Bll to supply depth of roast and dark malt character Because oftheir high gravity fermentation takes some carefil attention, too. The pasty side ofthe equation is even harder. After you select a great target dessert you think would ft well with the stout, you hhave to break down the favor components and figure out ow to introduce those into the beer. You can forget that those flavors have to survive fermentation and aging Thisisa lesson I've learned a lot fom mead making: Fruits and other additions change character when their sugar has fermented, {nto alcohol. Een if youre building on a ‘sweet foundation, hiting the right favors isnt easy. Another issue: While pastry stout are unbalanced relative to ordinary bers, its vital to work out the right combination of clements to evoke your target Ttmay not be a cake walk, but you want to have your cake and drink it, oo, you can brew this, Plotting Our Course To plan this out, we have three problems to solve: the base beer, the pasty side ofthe equation, and bringing those two together. Laying the Foundation (ur first step isto work out an imperial stout recipe that wil have a stating gravity fn the order of 1.100-1.10. Typically, that, ‘would mean something allgrain, with at least 20 pounds (91 kg) of base malt, roasted mal, and other dark malts fora five gallon (19ter) batch. IFyou'e used to brewing normal-strength beer, that amount of grain might be overwhelming for your equipment. It would be much easier to try a partil-mash recipe. But lets make thisa lot more manageable and use a fulhextract recipe with steeping grains, This might not be the best choice if we were doing a straight Russian imperial stout, buta pastry stout will be more forgiving. Normally, I recommend using lighter colored malt extract, but in ths case, well start with amber mat extract, in hopes of getting some more dextrins—the unter. ‘mentable sugars that will add richness via sweetness and body. The real color and avr will ame from the steeping grains Well use a selection of malts to get some reasonable complexity along with big tout character: roasted barley, chocolate malt, ‘melanoidin malt, dark crystal, and some Carafa Special It (dehusked). ‘The roasted barley, chocolate, and Carafa malts will give a solid stout base, while the crystal and melanoidin malt will add some complexity and contribute some dried fruit character. In addition, well add some lactose to make up for the malt extract, which might have yielded a drier beer than the hotter mash schedule weld use for allgrain, Wed want the lactose—a.ka, milk sugar, which is unfermentable—to get that rich desser-like quality anyway Pick Your Pastry ‘This isthe fan and creative part. While there's nothing preventing you from going totally crazy (lemon meringue sto, anyone), start by thinking about flavors, such as chocolate or chery, that would mesh well wit the dark ‘malts, From there, you can brainstorm yourEXTRACT BREWING favorite sweet teats, such as Sacher torte, raspberry Oreo cheesecake, s'mores, of may bbe something more exotic, such as maple bacon-infused chocolate chip cookies. Whatever you choose, the next step is to dig into the lavor components that build your impression ofthat wonderful dessert. ‘Well use a technique that engages both yout intuitive ight brain and your analyt cal eft brain, The bonus is that you get to enjoy your sweets in the name of research Start by picking up (or baking) the dessert you want to evoke. Before you even take a bite, give ita sniff and write down your sensory impressions. Then take bite or two and write some more notes. Next, do some research: Search the Intemet for recipes to make that dessert even if you already have one). Looking at several of these recipes, make a list ofthe in that could contribute to the favor Compare your tasting notes and the ist of ingredients. You'l likely see ingredi tents that you didn’t initially notice in your tasting notes. Take another bite and see Which ones you notice now. This exercise gives you a palette to work with to trans form that basic imperial stout ‘Suppose you want a German chocolate cake stout The fist thing you might notice {is the toasted coconut and light nutiness, followed by a creamy sweet chocolate. A selection of recipes suggests the following: tasted coconut, pecans (sometimes toast ed), sweet chocolate, cocoa powder, baking chocolate, vanilla, brown sugar, evaporated ilk In most ofthe recipes the icing is a ‘mix of coconut and pecan often with sweet chocolate, while the cake tends to have ‘cocoa powder or baking chocolate In that light, it's easier to pick up that nuance between the darker chocolate of the cake and that ofthe icing, which has ‘more vanilla character That will be @ nice detail to round out the more intense center of coconut and pecan, Before we flesh out the recipe, we need to work out how to bring in the special flavors. Given the fat content of pecans, T think pecan extract sa better approach than adding toasted pecans. Coconut is also fairly oily, but coconut extracts are too ‘much like suntan lotion for my tate, So, a ‘mix of coconut in the bol long with some inthe secondary is probably the way to go. The chocolate is also alittle complicate. [think well rly on the stout malts for the darkertoned chocolate-cake part, and then use cacao nibs along with a touch of vanilla in the secondary for that milk choc olate icing taste ‘We've worked out the pieces, now let's put them together TAKE CONTROL 3/8 HP ‘Multi-vessel crashin¢ ‘temperature cont Convenient plug-and-play temperature controller dock Compatible with up to6 Pump & Controller Kits (optional) and fermentation OF YOUR FERMENTATION Glycol Chiller | $899.99 Tidy cable and hose management ‘Small footprint Quiet operation meee A asa duu uray Reedthe grain with 2 quarts (946 German Chocolate "herr Cake Stout ‘sms Sra ‘SECONDARY ADDITIONS. adding the bitering hops and 1 Ib (454g) of toasted, ‘ocomt fer the hopped wort shredded coconut has boiled for an addtional 45 S vanilla beans, sliced into mites (5 minutes into the STEEPINGGRAINS Tong strips boil, temporarily remove the pot 1Tb (454g) roasted bar Ltsp (5 ml) pecan extract from the burner and stiri the 1Ib (454g) chocolate ma 1 Ib (454g) cacao nibs remaining LME and the lactose rmelanoidin malt Resume the boil for another 15, crystal 1201 DIRECTIONS. ‘mites, then tke the pot off 8.02 (227 kg) Carafa Special 1 Crush all steping grains and dhe burner and add water to top (dehusked) place in a nylon grain bag itoffto 5 gallons (19 lite Start heating 45 gallons (17 Chill the wort downto pitch ‘BOUL INGREDIENTS liters) of water in alarge pot that ing temperature—about 65°F 1b (5kg) amber liquid malt can holdatle (18°C); Thighly recommend a extract (IME ters) While the waterisheating, wort chiller. Once the wort is 1.02 (28 g) Magnum hops dip the grain bag in and swirl cool, make sure to thoroughly [11.256 AA] at 60 minutes _—ittothoroughly soak the grain. splash it when transferring it cup (24) shredded coconut Heat for 30 minutes without tothe fermentor to provide the 60 minutes exceeding 155°F (68°C)—tuming yeast with plenty of oxygen, 1.5 Ib (680 g) lactose at dwn the heat as necessary Proof the packets of yeast in 15 minutes, Remove the bagand rinse warm water for 5 minutes, then RESULTS MATTER. PMR at Uk ail DO Ree elas Cee cr) equipmentyou won't finda better De et cera) Cree) with equipment and support oe eeu ee eal Ley ay se em ee ae pitch it into the fermentor With ‘a bee this big, it's a good idea to use a blow-off hose during pri mary fermentation, Ferment at room temperature, about 72°F (22°), fr three or four weeks. ‘Once the fermentation slows, carefully rack the beer int secondary, adding the toasted coconut, vanilla beans, pecan ‘extract, and cacao nibs. Let it sit for two weeks before racking This isa good time to taste the beer to see whether the favors are hitting the balance yout want, At this point, i's Sill possible to add any ofthe individual flavors ifthey'e not quite to target This includes adding mo dont think is sweet enough. Once you're happy with the balance, package the batch with about 04 02 (12) total lactose if you dissolved primin give it atleast a month or two in the bottle to age. Then you ‘an break one out, sit back, and enjoy your just dessert Creer UII| PICK SIX | For Matt Tarpey, cofounder and head brewer of Richmond, Virginia's ‘The Veil Brewing Co,,0211y cralt be impressionsin his sense m experiences seared persis smory. Here, he bulldsa six-pack of beers that, it changed the course of his beer (and brewing) interests, as wellas beers, hestill reaches for today As told to Jamie Bogner WHILE THE BREWERY HE ccatvely heads is best known for outlandish—and at times absurd boundary pushing experi ‘ments in ingredient additions, Mat Tarpey's ‘own taste in bee is rooted inthe dassics of Belgium and afew generations ofthe Amer ‘can craft Iescon, In this sizpack, he walks through his personal ber history and palate development, marking the key turning points where bers made an indelible mark nis tastes and even his career, Cantillon Gueuze (Brussels, Belgium) Holy crap. Cantillon was the one that took me fom‘I dori ke sous beer to“T Jove sour beer’ It was actually Cantillon Fou'Foune that did it, but that opened the oor to Cantillon Gueuze, whichis some: thing I could drink daily. Lambic in general showed me that ll sour beer isnt one di ‘mensional lactic or any single character—not allof them are. But Cantillon Guetzeis one beer that I could drinkcall the ime and a beer that was important to my career in general The path my career took—I started to work, ask questions, and volunteer in places that focus on wild beer because of Cantillon “The beer itselis musty, like damp cellar. Slightly acidic and definitely funy, of course. Everytime I think of Cantillon, and lambic in general, the words damp and musty come to mind, Relative to ath 36 | CRAFTBEER BREWING erlambic, Cantillon Guewze has the pe: fect acid level—some are too acidic, so don't have enough acidity for me, but the acid level designed by Jean's palate is how Tove beer to present itself. Also, the cr. bonation level—a lot of other lambic and .gueuze are too effervescent for me. Some times, ifa beer is too carbonated, you cant drink a lot oft. Your throat gets scratchy you start geting belehy and bloated. I've always preferred Cantillon’ carbonation levels because I find them more balanced to my personal preference” Grand Réserve (Chimay, Belgium) ‘Chimay Grand Réserve [a.ka. Chimay Blue] is the beer that made me see that there was more than just the fizzy yellow stuff Itopened my eyes to Belgian beer in general and got me to star trying quads, twipels, and witbiers, and that kind of stuf. Iwas an entry beer for me into everything that was not the fizzy yellow stuf that our paarents—or friends in college—drank T'm pretty sure the fist place I had it was at this place called the Taphouse in Norfolk, Virginia | drank bunch of Belgian beers there—they used to have beers like Gulden Draak, La Chouffe—all sorts of stuff—and I would try all the different beers. “Lremember Grand Réserve being more fulkbodied and sweeter, and it had raisin-y and character—dark fru, and a litle bit of bubblegum and pepper—your standard Belgian characteristics that are nothing like the yellow fizzy stuf. Iwas like, ‘Holy crap, I can believe that this is a beer.” White (Pordland, Maine) ‘Allagash White isa crusher, I's available everywhere, and [never get tired oft Its a beer that, when you're out for your aunt's G5th birthday and the familys going to Ruby Tuesdays, that's your saving grace. You can get Allagash White at franchise restaurants or dive bars—its easy to obtain Everytime, its, They've got Allagash White? Okay, take that ve been drinking it for years, too—the fiat ime I ad itwas probably sound that time I started drinking Belgian beers. At "The Veil, we do so many things to extremes, so Lapprecate subtlety more than I ever have. appreciate subtety more and the Arinkability of Allagash White even more: 3FloydsDarkLord (Munster, Indiana) ‘Dark Lord is the beer that got me into beer trading back in 2010, It was the one that helped me lear about all these different breweries all around the country tht I didn't have access to in my local market The Vie ginia beer at that time was limited, andthe breweries we had were limited, and there were all ofthese other breweries across the county that didnt distribute outside oftheir ‘wn state but were making these incredible beers that wer influential on me that I wouldnt have access to otherwise“Ijoined Beer Advocate, Ratebeer, and the beertrading forums, and Dark Lord ‘was the one beer that got me into it Tye always been a metal guy—I used to tour around in metal bands and stuf like that. Three Floyds always had this metal vibe with their branding and their beers, and I gravitated toward Dark Lord, That was the pinnacle of beer trading—people ‘would go to Dark Lord Day every year and get the bottles of Dark Lord, I actually ‘ent to Dark Lord Day, once in 201 drove from Virginia to Indiana I don't know if could drink a 22-02 bomber of Dark Lord right now. I recently hhad the barrel-aged version with vanilla— Marshmallow Handjee—and thought it was amazing, So good fora barrel-aged, adjunct stout ‘But Dark Lord was an important beer in iy development, learning about all these breweries. Without it probably wouldn't hhave earned about Kate the Great and Portsmouth Brewery. It was the beer that, ‘when I got on the forums and started read- ing about it and learning about it before ‘ried it, that was the beer that everyone was ‘uying to trade for—Dark Lord, "ended up trading frit and geting a whole vertical. | had 10 years of Dark Lords, and | ended up opening a bunch and trading bunch. [always took them to bot shares because T just had a stockpile of Dark Lords eared so much about beers across the country from beer trading, and I developed my palate that way—from trading and doing bottle shares and stuffike that. [Teamed about The Bruery, about Half Acre—all these breweries around the country that ‘werent distributing much farther than one to thre states in their area, fatal. “ve always dug 3 Floyds—Zombie Dust, Alpha King, Gumballhead, Dread- naught—I used to havea beer-trader guy who was local to 3 Floyds, and Ii send him stuff from my local store, and he'd send me fresh bombers of Arctic Panzer Wolf, Behemoth, and all the stuff that 3 Floyds had, since they were one of my favorite breweries at the time” (Milton, Delaware) “Dogfish Head 90 Minute is beer that shovwed me what hoppy beer can be—the Deer that got me excited about hops, hoppy beers, IPAs, and pale ales. The favor profile and the aromatics drew me in—T had never ‘experienced something so hoppy in my life. And the alcohol evel—Id never had an imperial IPA. I thinkit was 9 percent ABV? Tthink that’s how they doit—60 Minutes 6 percent, 90 Minute is 9 percent and 120 Min ‘utes like 75 percent alcohol or something? “Ym not going tole o you; [stil ike 120 Minute. Ihave a lot of cool stories and experiences Listen Up! But 90 Minute— that was me drink: Tuneintothe ing the yellow fizzy GrattBeer & Brewing stuf, then going Magazine* podcast into drinking Bel- epiece 28formore ftom Mt Tarpey am beer. whichis andhistreving not hops-driven at hnsonyprocessand all and more yeast. pilosopty and maltdriven. To beerandbrewing go into something fomipodeasts ke 90 Minute, itwas like, “Holy crap, that’s lot ofhops! “Figuring out what those could be—ask ig, what isan Imperial IPA?—that got ‘me more excited about IPA and pale ale and hops in general. “Recently, Ihave been going back to making mixed siepacks, going back and trying ll these nostalgic beers that I used to drink on a semi-frequent basis and ask- ing myself, ‘Does it hold up?" I grabbed a GO Minute, and I actually grabbed a Burton ‘Baton—that ber is what, blend of oak aged IPA and some barleywine? But I did hhave Burton Baton, and it did hold up. “Dogfish has done a prety good jb, being as lange as they are. I dont see alot oftheir beers tasting different now than when I had them back then. My palate has evolved, but the beer isi different. [argue that they've been consistent, and 60 Minute probably tastes the exact same to someone who has had itor the past 10 years because they are s0 focused on quali" (chico, Calforsia) "As dich a8 it might sound, Sierra Nevada Pale leis the one—the beer tha you can find anywhere, dink ay ine, tay point inthe year Youcan hive one, ou can have five Its the perfec balance of it bit of hops and ite it of mal but without being oo eay drinking or agers ooo IPA You dont want tobe drinking tons of 75IBU TPAS over and over—youe jst go- to destroy your palate and be burnt ut “Pale Ale super accessible and pe-drinkable the perfect balance of hops Id alt Thaveit in my ge right now. 1 doc real drink ato of ty Own beor 1 taste it constant bat Fm not binging home cases of my om beer o,f want beer at home and im at the grocery soe, 11 usually just get a sixpack of something fiom Sierra Nevada, Sometimes its Dogfish Head, buts usualy Sera Nevada” A SBEERANOBREWING.COM | 37| COOKING WITHBEER | COOKING WITHBEER with Lagers Fire up the grill and break ou 2s social-distancingrul sof beer of exploring the flav re lagers. designed for sharing (among members oft nfood, Fi hese three tasty dishes are e same household only, of pply)and are surefire ways mn the minds and kitchens: Jastin Kruger anc Justin Wright, (ie Two Fat Justins. Grilled Honey Helles Shrimp Skewers with Char-Roasted Spring Vegetables a Serves: 4 SHRIMP 2 Tbs honey 8 02 (237 ml) helles (drink the rest! Lisp smoked paprika Salt and pepper as needed 11b (456 g) 21-25 ct shrimp, peeled and deveined 1p olive ol Four 8° (20 em) bamboo skewers, soaked in water overnight VEGETABLES 1 Ib 454g) asparagus, woody stems removed 1b (454 g) spring onions, or green onions, oots removed 2 Ths olive oil Salt and pepper as needed 402 (113g) baby spinach 4-6 leaves fresh basil 2 sprigs fresh dill 2°Tbs chopped chives Ina small bow, mix the honey, bee, pap Ja, anda pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside, Arrange six shrimp per bamboo skewer and brush with olive ol, then season light 38) CRAFTBEER BREWING ly with salt and pepper. Preheat the grill to ‘medium heat. While the grill is preheat ing, combine the asparagus and spring ‘onions in a bow, toss with olive oi, and season with saltand pepper Lay out the vegetables on the grill and cook until they have reached the desired char, then place into a bow! with 2 table spoons of the beer mixture. Add the spin ach and herbs and toss, Season to taste, Place the shrimp skewers on the grill and cook for 2 minutes, then fip and begin to ‘brush with the remaining beer mixture until the shrimp are cooked through. Portion the charred vegetables onto 4 plates and top with the grilled shrimp. Beer Sensory Notes: Spaten Brewery in Munich created the helles inthe 189s, a de parture from the city’ preference at that time for darker lager Delicate but malt forward, itshould poura very ight golden color with an inch or 0 of creamy; white head. The azoma shouldbe lightly sweet, and the taste should be similar, with low hop bitterness and hop flavor. While this ste is simple, itis incredibly refreshing and enjoyable in larger formats due tits low ABY, Classic examples inchude Lawenbrati Original, Paulaner Pr ‘miu Lager, Spaten Premium Lager, and ‘Weihenstephaner Original Whatthe Beer Does for the Dish: During cooking, the helles will add extra sugar tothe process, allowing for more char and caramel character In this recipe, will ensure that the shrimp have a nice, rich exterior for the cook time. When you add the beer mixture to the vegetables, the elles will lightly enhance the char character, and the subtle aromat ics ofthe beer will ring forward al of the herbal notes from the vegetables. Overall, this beer will subtly bring out more herbal and roast character from the entire recipe, Dunkel-Braised Bratwurst with Giardiniera Mustard Diced Serves: + BRATWURST Canola ol as needed 1 yellow onion, roughly sliced 4-46 cloves of garlic, diced 2 bottles of your favorite dunkel (one for ‘cooking, one for drinking) 4-6 quality bratwurst Ina mediumsized Dutch oven, drizale enough oil to barely cover the bottom ofthe pan and bring to medium heat. Toss in the onions and galic and cook until the onions are lightly golden brown. Pour in one bottle of dunkel and bring toa low simmer. Gently place the sausages in the pan and cove, then reduce the heat to low. Cook until the sausages ar filly cooked: 155°F (68°C) intemal temperature ot higher ‘While the sausages are cooking, fire upa 128 or charcoal grill to medium-high heat ‘When the sausages are finished cook ing, remove them fiom the cooking liquid and allow to cool. Save the cooking liquid 5| COOKING WITHBEER | for the mustard recipe (below). When ready toeat, char the sausages on the grill tothe desired color and serve with mus: asty dunkel tard and more ofthat 2 Ib (907 g) Kirby cucumbers sliced 14" (6mm) thick 1 serrano pepper, thinly sliced 8 0z (27g) green beans, cut into (6mm) rounds 1 cauliflower head, cut into small florets Tred onion, thinly sliced 2earvots, peeled, halve (mm) half moon and sliced into cup (240 ml) apple cider vinegar 4 cup (60 ml) rice vinegar, unseasoned 1 cup (240 ml) water 4 cloves of garlic Isp fennel seed 1 sp coriander seed Tbunch fresh dil Place the giardiniera vegetables in a large nonreactive bowl, Place the giardiniera liquid ingredients into a nonreactive saucepan and bring to boil. Allow the liquid to coo! slightly, then pour it over vegetables. Place the mixture inthe fridge tocool. Before you add the mixture to the ‘mustard, drain the vegetables, reserving the liquid. in a blender, pulse the vege bles until coarsely chopped. 6 Ths mustard seeds Yecup mustard powder Yeeup reserved sasige cooking liquid cooled 3 Ths giardiniera liquid isp salt \W cup chopped giardiniea vegetables Ima blender, combine the mustard seeds and mustard powder and blend on medi ‘um until the seeds begin to break down, ‘Add the rest ofthe ingredients and puree until the mustard reaches desied texture, Adjust seasoning with vinegar, water, and salt as needed, Beer Sensory Notes: A dure! (or dunks) sa classic dark lager from Bavaria Im Germany, “dunkel” means dark, and this beer can range from amber toa dark reddish-brown, It pours with a light-to ‘medium tan head witha creamy texture. Forts traditional ABV of 45-6 percent, itis deep and rch, with sweetness like bread crus, and various hint of chocolate, caramel, and toffee. Hop aroma is usually subdued but canbe floral or herbal, seldom. spicy. The favor is enhanced by the Maillard 40 | CRAFTHEER bat any negative changes to the beer from 48 | CRAFTBEER BREWING Are side pulls and slow pours gimmicky? Sure, but it's just the kind of gimmick on which Amer- ican beer culture thrives. Side-pull faucets and the slow-pour techniques they facilitate ‘fit very well into modern American beer culture's em- brace of obscure traditions and drive to adapt those authentic methods into new traditions” the slow pour. “A lot of people say they like so that liquid beer fills the glass from be: four normal pilsner more than theslow- _low—a taboo in modern American service pour version], but they Keep ordering slow practices. In this case, best practices are to pours for that drama and aesthetic: ‘wipe down the outside ofthe faucet with ‘Of course, there are some downsides sanitizer after each pour and, of course, 0 to the side-pull faucets—chiefly the cost. follow a rigorous maintenance schedule. Besides being more diffcultto source, ‘That's another downside tothe faucets each Czechmade side-pull unit costs “They can need quite abit more main- between §200 and $300—a farery from tenance, says Carter There are lots of| the $49.95 Perlk flow-control faucets small parts, disassembly is required fora common in tasting rooms from coast to thorough cleaning, and reassembly can be coast Installation can also bea challenge, challenging until you're comfortable with as the units require minor modification the differences. to work on direct-draw systems, and their Are side pulls and slow pours gim: longer shanks are incompatible with rmicky? Sure, but it’s just the kind of ‘many draft towers. Once they're installed gimmick on which American beer culture and properly set up, more challenges thrives. Side-pull faucets and the slow- follow, mostly related to learning to use pour techniques they facilitate “fit very them (and learning how to sell the service well into modem American beer culture's style to customers, who may demand full- embrace of obscure traditions and drive er glasses with ess foam). “Theresa litle to adapt those authentic methods into bitofa learning curve,” Master Cicerone new traditions." Wite says. Its both an Witte says ofthe pouring technique. ‘embrace and a rejection of an older beer ‘There are two main differences that _ culture, and the drama inherent in the run counter to standard draft procedures, towering foam shines a spotlight on how First instead of on-oroff, the low is a beer is served. controlled by how far the tap handle is In a world with more options for beer pulled—opening the tap only alte cre- and bars than ever, a focus on excellence ates more foam, while fully opening the in service is critical for continued devel tap results in more clear liquid beer flow- opment of our own beer culture, Ashleigh ing. Second, after the initial stage of the Carter puts it succinctly: "The more we pour that lays a layer of foam inthe glass, pay attention to how a beer is served, the. the faucet tip is submerged in the foam more we elevate this industry”ee Saas STARTS HERE Haven't tried Five Star products yet? Contact us and well send you a Craft ae eee hi nS ree Tat E-mail Supportefivestarchemicals.com to get started. eae) (@FiveStarChemicals (00) 782-7019 Listen and subscribe to the Craft Beer & Brewing Podcastat| MEADMAKING | Aubrosia esp fancy t Cuve eyed the mead section of the homebrew shop with curiosity or flat outst youbecomeameadmaker? Tums out, you already are: you just dontt know it yet. All youneed are the ingredients and these crucial tips frm Josh Weikert. ONTREONEBAND, fermentation is Kenis the owner and head meadinakerat bitterness of hops or ater ingredients ot fermentation. Theres no magicin it Take Schramins Mead in Ferndale, Michigan. favors that could provide a smilar service. a sugary liquid add yeast and volaan Ifyou have tasted his meads, youre So, acommon postfermentation step isto alcoholic beverage. Gran, grapes, honey, missing some ofthe best drinking inthe adjust the flavor by adding acidity andjor Tice—whatever the source, the principles world. For more (‘compleat” you might tannins to prevent a lying sweetnes more or less the same $2y) information, graba copy ofhis book Finally, usta with beer, you can ‘On the other hand, though, undeniable Here, Iljust corer the basis, package mead in botles or kgs (or cans, distinctions and subleties make each “Mead is made from waterdiuted honey. ifyoue fancy) fr conditioning. Carbon beverage unique, Brewers already have an Honey, as you probably know, comes ina ation—a ite toa loti also an option, intuitive sense ofhow to ferment basically range of aretis. These are akin to wine as meads canbe either sil, sparking, or anything, What welackis that key infor.” grapes Each contributes sublle (or bust) petit (amily effervescent "middle tation about how to ferment it well flavors. The more honey you use, the ground” between carbonated and stil) ‘What follows isa rundown of what you, higher your potential ABV, and meads can See what I mean about fermentation asa brewer already know about mead- range from mid-sngle digits all the way being fermentation? Ths seems simple taking, what you know but probably up tothe high tens. enough (and tly it doest have to be don't need to know, and, finally, what you. Because honey isa bit utrent-barren, complicated), You've go this! In fact there Probably should pay more atention to. youll need toadd yeast nutrient sothe "are plenty of headaches in brewing that Homemade mead is something youll Yeast can propery ferment your honey simply don factor much into modern probably enjoy for allthe same reasons into mead yeast cannot ive on sugar meadmaking. youenjoy homebrewed beer The good alone. Then (obvious youl ned yeast, news is that youte already most ofthe way andthe commercial yeast providers oer Dowv’t Sweat It tomaking it—and making it wel Sains engineered o produce quality Several steps and considerations regarded mnead—or you can even selecta beer or as essential to beer are ether absent ot First, let me putin aplugfor The Compleat Ate fermentation, youbave some work Fis, although were using water, don Meadmakerby my fend, Ken Schramm. todo: Most meads lack the balancing be too concerned about water chemMN MAKEIT Ken Schramms Medium-Sweet Orange Bossom Mead “This recipe for an orange blossom-Aavored mead comes from Ken Schramm’ book The Compleat MeadmaterItis reprinted there with permission. Batch size: 5 gallons (19 ites) 0G:1.120 FG:1.010 BY: 15% INGREDIENTS: 15 Ib (68kg) orange-blossom honey 4 gallons (5. liters) water 2 sp (10 ml) yeast nutrient (Fermaid O or similar) 1 sp (5 ml) yeast energizer 2 packets (10 g)Lalvin 718-122 Dry Wine (or suitable dry hite-wine yeast) DIRECTIONS ‘Combine the honey and water. Ifyou are heating the must, bring 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of water to boil and remove it from the heat, then add the honey and remaining water and str before transferring toa sanitized fermentor. Ifnot heating, add water toa sanitized bucket and stir in the honey to dissolve, then transfer toa sanitized fermentor. (Once the must reaches room temperature, pitch the yeast, add nutrient and energizer, and str, Oxygenate thoroughly, either through agitation/stizring or bubbling oxygen through the must via a sintered stone or aquarium pump. Hold the temperature a 68°F (20°C) for2 weeks —ifusinga staggered-nutrient addition (SNA) method, add according to your schedule. (For more about SNA, see “Mad for Mead, Part 2°on beerandbrewing.com) If refrigeration isnot available, place the fermentor ina cool spot with steady temperatures (such asa base- ‘ment or set) When activity in the airlock has ceased, transfer toa second vese for continued darifying and conditioning. When the ‘mead clears (about 2 more weeks) adjust the acidity and/or tannins totaste, and transfer to botles. Age 6-9 months before drinking, ‘TIPSFORSUCCESS Finda reputable honey supplier to ensure that you get the full expression ofthis mead. Orange blossom honey is remarkably aromatic, with floral and fruity lavors abounding. Sanitize ev. enything and remember that time is your friend: Mead, unlike beer, will generally improve with age. Give your yeast plenty of time to ferment the must into mead and allow plenty of ime for clarifying and conditioning. Finally, the gravities listed above are approximate. Specific sugar content in honey is variable, so your starting gravity may ‘bes many a8 10 points higher or lower than noted here. 52 | CRAPTBEER S wREWING | EATUREHEAD | istry, Adam Crocket, owner and head meadmaker of the award-winning Haymaker Meadery in Pennsylvania, notes that unless you're working with the hardest well water on Earth and/or have water with strong flavors (oil, chemicals) the character of your water just doesn't factor into the finished product. For one thing, water makes upa much smaller percentage of mead than it does in beer. For another, the ‘beery interactions between salts/ions in water and ingredients (hops, yeast) aren't really happening in mead. “Then there's the “production” process: Don't sweat tat least notin the traditional “beer” sense. In Michigan, Schrazam “Beer is very technique-specific: hiting gristto-water ash temps, strike temps, bol duration, and hop addi- tions, etcetera.” By comparison, he says, mead is “very much bout the farfrontend ofthe process"—and well get to that shonly. It's less about the process itself Likewise, even concepts such as “recipe” matter less— Crockett notes that with al of the fermentation and post- fermentation adjustment and tweaking, favor can be quite malleable, and a meadmaker can address significant off flavors in a way tha’ largely impossible fora brewer. Finally: equipment. The newest noob in beer brewing. already has all the equipment needed to produce outstand- ing mead. Ifyou have a bucket, spoon, a racking cane, an airlock, and bottles, you're good to go. Meadmaking is many ‘things, but equipment intensive itis not. So far, s0 good! What You Already Know “There are the things you don't need to know, and then there are the things that are stil vitally important... but that you already know because of your experience in brewing. Crockett from Haymaker hits a note that will sound perfectly familiar to any brewer: "Saitize everything” In brewing, we're mostly concemed about cold side sanitation, since the boil will rectify any hotside messiness on our part. Dip your dog into your beer while coughing into the mash tan, and so long as it doesn't have a flavor impact and you don't tell anyone}, who ‘cares? But mead is basically al cold sid. To the extent that you're heating your mus (the honey-water pre fermentation ‘equivalent of wor) is only to loosen up the honey, to get every last bit out ofthe jars/buckets, or possibly todo some ‘relatively low-temperature pasteurization—and many recom ‘mend against even that, Heating the must, in the opinion of Think about honey the way you. think about grain: quality in, qual- ity out Get yourself the very best honey and additional ingredients (fruits, hops, spices) that you can. AsSchramm says, “Mead is very much about far-front-end ofthe process: finding and using the fin- estingredients you can findand then getting the hell out of the way”eo ienentats eg reme : tomake a mead by pilfering two or three eeemgeenntee Stay mentee wo may have ted is ee ee eee Proce aking adie om more exper ee fey line heme ooo a frelp keep the yeast “happy ba What'sNew? Its time to break the bad news: There a arts of ths process thatare ping tbe tare going tobe Gifferent, bordering on ute alien, Theyre ‘manageable, but you need to now about ths oe Whar ‘mead otto self “Fal Bred Mead” isa ile name for abraggo that sufes fom your brewer tastings aod proctes. Fist as Haymake's Crockett mentions amead can be more yeasintensive han be Whi tan cate erent jou could fllow a standard beer pitch fated roby beak) te eat cast two reason io conse lng cringe Fe ae ‘working with amiah higher orginal grav iy than ber, pushing int the mid high teens of potetal AV percentage The second reason is that honey, ax previously noted (and aswell ump into nex), smu tren deficient While wee adding some that land outinecent memory ‘Mead hasenjoyedametoot Setiool meadimakers ab \ Ye \Y : ep erbert cofounder Superstition Meader Prescott Arizona Prt erry meacimade vai meadw oar Beso Tesararoy usedionsolraspbemes wnichlendsabreht ee eartberyritnessthat pas erect wit acy alow and variances otmeadow oa NS \ —« N Kuhuhenn Bourbon Barrel ‘Toast eae Aadswoth founder and meadmae. ‘iteboohavir Meads in Valparasa Indiana Herat Dark ord ay many yearsago 20 Rt FeesFoattromallte other stoous beverages, So oe at day wasavesruck battery cored aromaand favor enc toast which Sa pew anita the bourne ca Tere mnedn.co wel realy aspueto tae thatsae mene nti ourcistomerstireugh our me ‘anders Scie tveu func andmendrake Bonestower Cat ‘Meadinst John nda Moat tye his meas ever rly etiniovevetin Te oe ext olthehoney fra acayand tanner Coane atm frsip Marionbery sone of tGSe cowed oe ert wank tend Lucky tists aioe ats ope Youcan defile say that Maroney Bas ar ance Bonetower any umesover al” We vitz owner and mazer GaraasteMeadery i ‘Tampa, Fora Tout isa Bourbon Barre! Banana Bochet French, eae concept anitstime pretty remarkable. sn that Tasty challenged wha thought mead uk De Aaa lomndsin used spisbarels was tl aE eo aintentionaly buminghoney fr encpatayle meads wasrelalvely unhest o poet ourbon toasted oak aneanata wih aie Stemnatnon Ihust worked andasamead eRe at thetimelt posivey blew ray ma Yy YY Wo ‘Brchora Qual cofounder Manic Meaery | GownPontindana Rae rts Madeline dst arty wasthe eatin ge Sarat nig ookdberry bors Prcrtouyingtisaekous rary Metin Twasvery sepa thi ray ee aimed other thanancccasonalaftr cy Sat Nceline change tra Kerisexpressonct vey need tnebetyrghgttedinperectunion wih seers arly magealexperience Themend wera Se lefeomexty ancbold preseraton ‘woulsnatbetot cut Sehyannmsconiulinsanchinnovation: Yl [BEERANOBREWING.COM | 53| MEADMAKING | of that manually the margin for eror is smaller so avoiding any potential causes of yeast stress (such as under pitching) will also reduce the risk of off favors from fermentation. For that reason, more yeast (and, for that matter, more oxygen at pitching) isa good idea In addition to yeast youll need to add nutrients to mead, Honey is deficient in a key element—nitrogen—that makes fermentation possible. Tis is one reason that honey is essentially immune from spoilage: You cant spoil what you cant ferment. As brewers, we care a bitabout yeast nutrients, but we have a cheat: malt ced barley. As Fairbrother notes, “Malt has healthy supply of YAN jyeastassimilable nitrogen|—honey doesn. So if [you're] ‘making 2 traditional mead, you will need another source.” ‘Moonlight (and ‘many home smeadmakers) uusea product called Fer ‘maid O. It adds organ- ic nitrogen that allows yeast to metab lize hhoney’s Se 54) CRAFTBEERS BREWING complex sugars into alcohol, Many in trodhictory guides (including Schramm's ‘The Compleat Meadmaker) suggest adding, yeast nutrients at the time the must is ‘produced, ust prior to pitching yeast, and in addition it has become standard practice to add nutrient throughout fermentation, These staggered nutrient additions prevent the presence of nutrient scraps," which could enable undesirable organisms to contaminate your mead. Instead, meadmakers recommend adding, just enough nutrient to, as Fairbrother says, “keep the yeast happy” One other infeequent.in-brewing but par: forshe-coursein-mead practice is post: fermentation acid, sweetness, and tannin adjustment. This fine tuning process is a fantastic feature of meadmaking, and it allows even a novice to dal in the exact favor profile desired, ‘Many ofthese adjustments ‘ean bedone to taste (add abit of tartaric acd, taste, adda Dit more, taste, ete), though resources abound for spe- fc tests, ingredients, and measurements to guide you. You can even restore ‘sweetness toa mead by dosing it with potass- um sorbate (to prevent farther fermentation) and then adding honey for other sugars, Sure, as brewers we might occa: sionally dry hop or tss in some oak, but post: {fermentation adjustment is the norm in meads. Ultimately, the differences boil down to these: overprepare your yeast with plenty of company and support, provide them with the nutri. tents they need, and take advantage of the flavor-adjustment tools available to you to ng your mead to the exact flavor profile and expression you want. Now You'reaMeadmaker Meadmaking isnt brewing. As Fairbroth- cersays, “its the smallest of things that ‘make the biggest differences: Manage yout fermentation temps, keep the yeast happy, and plan fora much longer time needed to ferment” Most ofthe differ ‘ences, though, area matter of degree or intensity than of kin, and you already Ienow most of what you need to know, and you already have most ofthe equipment you need o produce high-quality meads. ‘All you nced isthe ingredients ‘And make no mistake: Mead is deli- cious, andi a great way to introduce you wine-drinking feiends to the wider ‘world of fermented drinks. This isn just forthem, though: The greater utility with honey that youl derive ftom meadinak- ing will make you a better brewer. Not only ae there styles devoted to hom ‘ey-rain hybrids (ouch as bragged, but hhoney is a Fantastic adjunct sugar that you ‘an and should be using as an ingredient in your bees. So, start simple, lam the “new basics, and a whole new world will open up to you. Melomels (fruit meads), metheg lins (spiced hopped meads),pyments (grape honey hybrids), and all manner ‘of combinations and honey varieties will challenge you plate and sks. You a ready know how to produce a fermentable liquid. You're already a meadmaker—all youre missing isthe mead Go grab some honey and some yeast nutrients an fx that 8 = = One other infrequent-im the-course-in-mead practice is post-fermen- tation acid, sweetness, and tannin adjust- ment. This fine-tuning process is a fantastic feature of meadmaking, and it allows even anovice to dial in the exact flavor profile desired. Many of these adjustments can be done to taste (add a bit of tartaric acid, taste, adda bit more, taste, etc), though resources abound for specific tests, ingredients, and measurements to guide you. i i i i i iTee Cece Ru crt need os ol eC enc nen ene ony Paces tr em ee serena Telenor| MEADMAKING | ANYONE WHO'S CHECKED THE. rankings of top breweries on Untappd or Ratebeer lately might have noticed something unusual: Many of top-ranked are not breweries at al. They're meaderies. As ofthis writing, meadmakers ae four of the five top-rated “breweries” on Untappd, (Checking the current top U.S. "beers" over at Ratebeet, 1of the top 50 are cureently ‘meads, (Interestingly, every one of those isa melomel—that is, a fruited mead.) So, whats this all about? First, let's give due credit tothe creative new wave of meadmakers—more about them below—who have found a foothold and have been able to grab some well-de served atention amid the cacophony of 8,000-plus breweries in the age of mad var: ey, Meanwhile, the number of commercial :meaderies has grown, too: from just 30 in 2003 to more than 500 today, according to the American Mead Makers Assocation. Vicky Rowe, executive director of the a sociation, says that number looks likely to ¢grovr inthe next couple of years: The group has about 200 more members registered as “meaderes in planning” (Another 600 ‘members are home meadmakers}) Rowe has been watching the mead scene fora while and seen it blossom, She was enjoying mead at medieval fairs in the 1980s, and in 1996, she started what is likely to be the world’s oldest mead website: gotmead.com. She says the site is “the ‘most complete collection of mead infor. ‘mation anywhere on the Intemet” She hhas watched the scene grow from a small niche to what i is today: a growing trend attracting a growing number of enthusi- asts—including many beer lovers. “Oh, ita thrill” Rowe says. “I've been buying, and looking at, and learning about, and making mead—and reporting on it— since 1996. At that point in time, there were about 30,35 meaderes in the country and rot very many people making it. But oddly ‘enough, the bulk of the flks who are in the mead world now are also beer people “So, we're kind ofa crossover alte bit bbecaise we get lot of beer folks” she says. ‘And I tink some of that comes from the fact that beer people, they'e adventurous. They're willing to try new things and be open-minded about stuf? that they haven't checked out yet. Ithelps that some of the new meads— she specifically mentions Schrammis Heart of Darkness as one that has been influential—are pushing the envelope. ‘Meadmakers are geting ideas from each other as well as from the beer world “All the new people coming in, alot of. them ate very innovative and come up with some great ideas” Rowe says. “And the ‘oe folks, if you wil, who have been there, have come around—like Rabbit's Foot Meadery in Northern California, They've been in operation more than 20 years. And you know, they also make amazing mead, So, weve a prety support ive bunch, as an industry. These people have alot of knowledge and idea-sharing going on within the commercial mead community and the home one, too. So, we're tight because we're not that big yet. I don't know whether that will change when there are 5,000 meaderies, iF we ever get to that point. I don't know, I don't really fel lke the new guys ate Johnay-come-latelies, per se. 'm happy that they're there. They're growing things for us” Another force behind the new:mead trend thas been socal medi, On a platform such 38 Untappd, raters tend to reward bold flavor if not drinkabity), and many ofthese _meads are trong, intense drinks ideal for dessers, nightcap, or special occasions. (Often colorful and visually striking, they have also played well on other platforms. "In- stagram isa hotbed of meadmakers” Rowe says. "Therea ton of mead activity there” “Oddly enough, the bulk of the folks who are in the mead world now are also beer people. And I think some of that comes from the fact that beer people, theyre adventurous. They're willing to try new things and be open-minded about stuff that they haven't checked out yet.” 56 | CRAFTBEER BREWING Another element ofthe trend is easily overlooked: In many cases, meadmakers can ship their bottles directly to your door step. Most states have laws that make it easier for wineries (and thus meaderies) to ship thee products straight to consumers, Amid the patchwork of state laws and an entrenched three-tier distribution system, breweries often do not have that option. Rowe names one company in particular that has made e-commerce easier for small ‘meaderies: VinoShipper. The platform makes it relatively sim: ple for producers to set uupan online shop and connect with custom: ers across the county. “Given the fact that most meaderies are fairly small, it's a huge bonus for them—espe cially ight now” Rowesays, referring to the closure of tasting rooms due tothe COVID«19 pandemic “So, this a big opportunity for them: Ttalso puts some ofthese coveted meads within reach—even when yout local liquor store hasnt (yet) heard ofthe tuff. Here isa rundown ofa few of the produc: cers among this new cast of characters, as, well a a brief look at what they're making that has drinkers excited, Note that many of these meaderies have their own tasting rooms, rare-bottle clubs, and online shops that can ship meads to most states, Also note that the meads listed below are virtually all somewhere between 12 to 18 percent ABV. No session drinks, these. Schramm's Launched in 2013 in Ferndale, Michigan, Schramm has grabbed special attention with ts rich melomele such as Heart of Darkness, packed with fruit grown, fn their own farm: raspberries, black currants, and Schaezbeek cherries. The Statement isa ‘more intensely cherried melo: ‘mel, while Black Agnes balances asweetmed | withloads oftart black currant, Nutmeg strikes a different sont of balance, asa metheplin—spiced ‘mead—whose eponymous ingredient has along track record of compatibility with honey and sweetness. For mote about this influential and envelope-pushing meadery, see "Meadmaking for Brewers” (page 5). Superstition In Prescot, Arizona, Jen and Jeff Herbert have a lear and stated mission: “to rintro duce the world’ oldest fermented beverage to mankind.” Founded in 2012, Supers tion has grown since then to become the states largest “winery. The drink that gets folks all atwiter is Berry White, made with raspberries and white chocolate, There are ‘BEERANOBREWING.COM | 57| MEADMAKING | Types of fend Meadhasitsownsor of siyle vocabulary andthere ‘some overlap Heresa ‘bet explanation of some of themost common ypes, thoughtherearemany vations basecon various ‘mead malang tadilons around the word ‘Mead: fermentextcrinic coming ina wideran Alcohol strengths. ‘mustbeatleast 5 percent andby far tbe most popular typeinthenew waveot rat meads Pyment:/\'ypeotelc rmelmade wih grapes, ‘Metheglin: mca flavored ith herbs andlor sprees Braggot:Abeor mead iy brithat may ince ralt andior hors (yser:& cider mead hybrid thatincludes fermented apple julce Bydromek:\soroften used forlovier alcohol mead (ie, Waler honey?) Below Frome isi tapos ans. oy Ca eo oe sey 9 bombo med tie at a prin ett wth ft ter phone variations on that theme, such as Black berry, Blueberry, or Strawberry White, or the Grand Cru, a blend of al four versions. Another of interest to beer enthusiasts i Samba, made in collaboration with Marble Brewing of Albuquerque, New Mexico. At 12 percent ABV, it gets a bright burst ‘of Samba hops fora pineappleslike aroma and flavor (see "The Beyonders” page 59, ‘where youl finda profile of Superstition ‘and a recipe for Samba). Pips Some of the most sought after botles in the trend come from this small producer, founded in 2016 in Beach Park, Illinois, north of Chicago. According to their own

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