The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Contents
Provisional Licence 3
Requirements and different types of licences 3
Motorcycles v. Scooters 6
Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) 7
About the Theory Test 8
About the Hazard Perception Test 8
Preparing for your Theory Test 8
How to book your Theory Test 9
The day of your Theory Test 9
About the Motorcycle Practical Test 10
How to book your Motorcycle Practical Test 10
Module One Motorcycle Practical Test 11
Module Two Motorcycle Practical Test 11
Safety Equipment 12
Regular Maintenance Checks 14
All Weather Riding 15
Braking 18
Stopping Distances 18
Junctions and Side Roads 19
Cornering 20
Steering 21
Overtaking 21
Country Roads 22
Buying a New Bike 22
What to do if you’re involved in an accident 23

First published in the UK by Focus Multimedia Ltd., © 2012

No part of this book may be reproduced, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher, Focus Multimedia Ltd.

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired
out or otherwise circulated without the authors’ prior permission. The contents of this book are correct at time
of printing (June 2012). The publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors, omission or for changes in the
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* Source: GfK ChartTrack PC software chart (units sold, all Driving Test Success products), 1997-2012.
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2
 The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Welcome to The Beginner’s Guide to Biking. This book will guide you step-by-step through the process of
learning to ride and obtaining your full motorcycle licence.

Whatever the reason for wanting to take to two wheels (be it for commuting, social pleasure or just that it’s less
tiring than cycling), there are a few ways to get started.

Provisional Licence
First off, you will need to apply for a provisional motorcycle licence before you can start your motorcycle lessons,
sit the Theory Test or take your Practical Test.

You can apply for a provisional licence from the age of 17 (or 16 if you wish to ride a moped).

If you hold a car driving licence and want to ride a motorcycle or scooter, you will need to check that it holds a
provisional motorcycle entitlement. If not, you will need to apply for a provisional motorcycle licence.

Once you have obtained your provisional licence you can ride a light motorcycle which is sometimes called a
training motorcycle. i.e. any bike with:
•• An engine capacity of no more than 125 cc
•• A maximum power output of 11 kW or 14.6 bhp

Whilst you are riding on a provisional motorcycle licence you must obey the following restrictions:
•• You must display L plates at all times (L or D plates in Wales)
•• You must not carry a pillion passenger
•• You must not ride on motorways

How to apply for your Provisional Licence

You can apply online for your provisional licence using the DVLA’s (Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency’s) secure
online service at http://www.direct.gov.uk.

Alternatively you can complete the D1 application form which is available from the Post Office and send your
completed application by post to the DVLA.

Requirements and Different Types

of Licences
CBT
Once you have received your provisional licence you will need to undertake Compulsory Basic Training (CBT).
You must not go onto the road without first completing this training and receiving a CBT pass certificate (DL196).

It is worth noting that the CBT certificate makes no distinction about the type of motorcycle you can ride
(in terms of moped, scooter or motorcycle) as long as it is limited to 125 cc (11 kW, 14 bhp).

However, it is advisable to take your CBT on the type of bike you will be riding on the road. A manual motorcycle
can take a bit longer to get the hang of so it’s better to get to grips with it within the safe environment of a
training school.

Distinctions do apply for full licences and, as with a car, if you pass your test on an automatic (scooter) you would
not be allowed to ride a manual motorcycle (with clutch and gears).
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 There are some exemptions under which a CBT is not needed:
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
•• If you passed a full moped test after December 1st 1990
•• If you have a car licence issued before February 1st 2001 you are entitled to a full moped licence without
needing to do a CBT course
•• If you are upgrading your category A licence (for example you are doing a Direct Access course but already
hold a Category A1 licence)
You will find more detailed information about the CBT later on.

CBT Certificate
The CBT certificate (DL196) is valid for two years and during this time you will not be able to ride a motorcycle
more powerful than a 125 cc (14.6 bhp). You cannot carry a pillion or travel on the motorway and your bike
must display L plates at all times. After the certificate expiry date you will need to either retake your training or
undertake one of the following to obtain a full licence:

A1 motorcycle licence
Once you reach the age of 17 or over, you can take a test on a motorcycle without a sidecar of between 120 and
125 cc. If you pass your test you may ride a motorcycle up to 125 cc with power output up to 11 kW, or a motor
tricycle with power not exceeding 15 kW.

A2 motorcycle licence
At the age of 19 or over, you can take a test on a motorcycle without sidecar of at least 395 cc with a power
output of at least 25 kW but not exceeding 35 kW.

If you pass, you may ride any motorcycle as long as this does not exceed 35 kW and with a power to weight ratio
not exceeding 0.2 kW/kg.

Full A motorcycle licence

This test must be taken on a motorcycle without a sidecar, of at least 595 cc and an engine power of at least 40
kW. This gives you full access to all motorcycles and motor tricycles.

You can obtain a category A licence by taking a progressive access from the age of 21, or via the direct access
scheme from the age of 24.

Category A under progressive access

If you’ve held an A2 licence for a minimum of two years, you can take a category A practical test at age 21. You
don’t need to take another theory test or hold a CBT certificate.

Category A under direct access

This is for riders aged 24 or over. To obtain a category A licence you must
•• successfully complete a CBT course
•• pass the motorcycle theory test
•• pass the practical motorcycle test.

By passing the practical test on a motorcycle of at least 40 kW (53.6bhp) it gives you immediate access to all sizes
of motorcycle.

IMPORTANT: You MUST NOT carry a pillion passenger or pull a trailer until you have passed your test.

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 Moped licence requirements
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

In order to ride a moped, it must have an engine capacity that does not exceed 50 cc, not weigh more than 250kg
and be designed to have a maximum speed not exceeding 28mph (45 km/h).

Before June 2003 a licence allowed the riding of mopeds up to 50km/h.

To ride a moped, learners must

•• be 16 or over
•• have a provisional moped licence
•• complete CBT training

You must first pass the Theory Test for motorcycles and then the moped practical test to obtain your full moped
licence.

However, if you passed your car driving test before 1 February 2001 you are qualified to ride a moped without L
plates (and/or D plates in Wales), although it is recommended that you complete CBT before riding on the road.

If you passed your car driving test after this date you must complete CBT before riding a moped on the road.

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 Motorcycles v. Scooter?
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

What are the differences and which is best for me?

Whether or not you decide to call it Mabel, Maude or Mildred it is important to consider what will be the best
companion to start your motorcycling journey. This can be dependent not only on your budget but also your age
and licensing restrictions as well as the sort of riding you will be likely do.

Scooters
A scooter, otherwise known as a ‘twist and go’ is exactly that. There are no manual gears or clutch, and they are
often regarded as easier to ride.

Small and light, scooters are ideal for town work and short journeys. However, if you are using one as a learning
stop-gap leading to a bigger motorcycle, then it might be worth thinking of starting with a smaller manual
(geared) bike.

The majority of scooters have an engine size of around 50 cc - 125 cc but do go up to 800 cc and are available in
many styles to suit your personal needs.

Scooters have a platform where you can rest your feet and some even come with a blanket to cover your legs
from the elements. There also tends to be more room to place items under the seat than on a bike, but you’ll also
find plenty of luggage accessories available that will help with extra storage if needed.

125 cc Motorcycles
Most 125 cc motorcycles and scooters can be ridden once Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) has been completed.
Like scooters, 125 cc motorbikes tend to be light and nimble but have the added complication of learning gears
and clutch control. However, this will stand you in good stead if you decide to progress to a bigger bike later on.

The riding position is different to that of a scooter as your feet are on pegs at the side, as opposed to in front on a
platform. If you do plan on riding bigger bikes, then getting familiar with the use of footpegs when turning corners
and in general riding is going to help later on.

Both smaller bikes and scooters are cheap to run and insure, but scooters tend to edge it. If you decide to go for a
bigger bike (licence permitting), then it will still be important to consider the sort of riding that you will be doing,
your budget and riding experience. It might feel great to jump astride your new race replica superbike, but if it’s
just for a ten mile all weather commute, then it may not be the best choice.

Whatever you decide to choose, ride safe and have fun.

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 Compulsory Basic Training
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

What to expect on the day

The Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) course is an assessment of ability and a way of giving riders the basic skills
that they need to practice in preparation for their full test.

As it is not a test, you cannot fail a CBT and in effect there is no time limit on how long it takes (though about 6-7
hours is typical). Instead the training is built around the completion of five elements. Do make sure that you check
with the training school as to what will happen if you are not ready to receive the certificate after the first day (i.e.
whether you will have to pay extra costs).

The cost of a CBT course will be somewhere in the region of £100 though this can vary depending on area.
As with most things, shop around and make sure you are clear of any ‘hidden extras’.

All CBT’s must take place at a Driving Standards Agency (DSA) Approved Training Body (ATB) which should have
a good level surface for onsite training.

Most training schools will be able to supply the bikes and safety equipment, so all you need to do is bring your
provisional driving licence (both parts) and a positive attitude. If you do want to bring your own bike (via a friend
or trailer) you will need to bring insurance documents and log book as well as L plates for the bike.

At the end of each of the five elements the instructor should check that you have understood the contents before
proceeding to the next part.

Element A
The first element will cover the aims and objectives of the CBT course. As well as your licence, your eyesight will
be checked. You must be able to read a number plate from 20.5 metres (67 feet) in the case of old style plates,
and 20 metres (65 feet) for the newer style plates (those that have two letters followed by two numbers). It may
be worth checking that you can read characters from this distance before booking your CBT as you will not be
able to continue should you fail the eyesight check.

This part of the course will also contain an informative insight into the use of correct clothing and equipment (such
as helmets) and general road safety.

Element B
The second section will focus on introducing an understanding of the machine controls, daily and weekly checks,
how to get the bike on and off the stand, wheeling the bike and learning how to use the brakes. There will also be
an exercise in starting and stopping the bike.

Element C
The third element will be the fun bit and consists of a series of exercises actually riding the bike on site.
This will include throttle control, use of gears and clutch (if applicable) braking (including emergency stops)
manoeuvres (such as slow riding and simulated turns with appropriate use of indicators) and observation skills
(like when to use a lifesaver).

Element D
The fourth element will be based in a classroom and will prepare you for the road riding element.
It will cover a range of safety issues including:
•• Weather awareness
•• Road surfaces
•• Traffic conditions
•• Highway Code
•• Hazard awareness
•• Correct rider attitude

Element E
The fifth element is the road riding section and will last two hours. You will only be allowed out on the road if the
instructor is confident that you are capable and have understood all the previous elements.

You will be in radio contact with your instructor and there should be a maximum of two students to one instructor.
7 Successful completion of this (and therefore all of the other elements) will result in the award of your CBT pass
certificate (DL196).
 About the Theory Test
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

The first step in becoming a full UK licence holder is to take your motorcycle Theory Test. You must pass this
before you can book your Practical Test.

This computer-based test consists of two sections:

1. A multiple-choice test
2. A hazard perception test

You must pass both parts to get an overall pass. A failure in either part means that you will have to sit both the
theory and hazard perception tests again, so it is important that you are fully prepared before you apply and sit the
test.

You will sit the Theory Test using a touch screen PC. You will be given 57 minutes to answer 50 questions and
you must score 43 or more to achieve a pass. The questions cover a wide range of theory knowledge including
alertness, attitude, safety, road signs and much more.

Once your test begins, a question and several answers will appear on screen and you have to select the correct
answer by touching the screen. Some questions may require more than one answer so it’s important that you read
the questions carefully. You can navigate between questions and ‘flag’ questions that you want to come back to
later in the test.

Case study questions

Some of the multiple-choice questions will be given as a “case study”. The case study will comprise a scenario
with five questions based on the situation outlined. The subject of the scenario focuses on real-life examples and
experiences that drivers could come across when driving.

About the Hazard Perception Test

Once you have completed the multiple choice element, you will be offered a short break before starting the
hazard perception part of the test. To pass this test you will need to spot 15 developing hazards in 14 video clips,
each lasting about one minute.

Each video clip will contain at least one developing hazard. You will be expected to spot the early warning signs of
the hazard BEFORE it develops and to respond by clicking with the left or right mouse button.

You are not expected to click ON the hazard, just to press the button when you recognise that something is about
to go wrong. You will need to score 44 or more out of 75 in order to achieve a pass mark.

Preparing for your Theory Test

To help prepare for your Theory and Hazard Perception Tests, Driving Test Success produce a wide range of
PC training aids, developed specifically to ensure that you are fully prepared.

No matter how you want to learn, Driving Test Success has a solution for you. From PC software, DVD’s, on-line
training, digital downloads and Apps, you’ll soon gain the vital experience you need to pass both parts of your
Theory Test with confidence.

For further information visit: www.drivingtestsuccess.com

8
 How to book your Theory Test
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

You can book your Theory Test online using the DVLA’s online booking service at
www.direct.gov.uk/drivingtest. Make sure that you use the official website as other sites might
charge you a booking fee.

You can also book your Theory Test by telephone on 0300 200 1122.

To complete your booking you will need the following:

•• Your valid provisional driving licence number (Great Britain or Northern Ireland).
•• A credit or debit card to pay the test fee.

The Day of Your Theory Test

If you want the day of your Theory Test to go as smoothly as possible, it’s important that you are fully prepared.
Before you leave for the test centre, you must have all of your documentation with you including:

•• B OTH parts of your driving licence – Your signed photo card licence AND the paper counterpart
Or
•• If you have an old style paper licence you must also bring another form of photographic identification such
as a passport.

Be prepared
It is important that you know exactly where the test centre is located and that you arrive in plenty of time.
If you arrive late, the test centre may cancel your test and you may forfeit your booking fee as a result. But most
importantly of all, it is critical that you are fully prepared so that you arrive 100% confident that you will be leaving
with a pass certificate.

At the test centre

When you enter the test centre, a receptionist will check your details and you will be asked to empty your pockets
of any mobile phones, MP3 players, notes, books etc. These must be stored in a locker until you complete the
test.

When the time of your test arrives, you will be shown to a computer workstation and given some brief guidance
on its use. For the Theory Test, you will answer questions by pressing on a touch sensitive screen. In the Hazard
Perception Test, you will respond by using either a left or right mouse button.

The tests each have their own introduction videos and headphones are provided so that you can listen to the
voice instructions. For both parts of the test, you will be given a test question to practice with before starting the
assessed part of the test.

After the multiple-choice part, you can choose to have a break of up to three minutes before the hazard
perception test starts.

When you have completed the test you will be asked to wait 10 minutes or so, before being given your marks and
(hopefully) your pass certificate!

Remember – practice makes perfect! Good luck.

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 About the Motorcycle
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Practical Test
The motorcycle practical test aims to improve the standard of road safety for motorcycle and moped riders.
Unfortunately bikers have been identified as having a high risk of injury or death, which is particularly the case for
young and inexperienced riders.

The motorcycle practical test will be completed in two modules:

•• Part one: The off-road module
•• Part two: The on-road module

In order to obtain your full licence you must pass BOTH parts of the test. You can book both parts of the test at the
same time, but you must pass module one before you can sit module two.

If you don’t pass module one you must wait 3 clear working days before you can re-sit the test. Therefore it’s
advisable to allow enough time between the two modules to avoid you losing the test fee of module two.

However, if you don’t pass module two, you must wait TEN clear full working days before you can re-sit this
module again.

How to book your Practical

Motorcycle Test
Before you can apply for your Practical Motorcycle Test you will need to have passed your Theory and Hazard
Perception Tests (see previous section for details).

You can book your Practical Test online by visiting the Direct Gov website at www.direct.gov.uk.
You will need to ensure that you have the following information to hand in order to complete your booking:

•• A valid Great Britain or Northern Ireland provisional driving licence number

•• A valid credit or debit card. Cards accepted include Visa, Mastercard, Visa Electron, Switch and Solo Cards.
Please note that Maestro cards no longer accepted.
•• Your Theory Test pass date and certificate number

Alternatively, you can call the Driving Standards Agency (DSA) on 0300 200 1122 and book your test over the
telephone. Make sure that you have all the details listed above to hand before you call.

Book your Practical Driving Test by post

You can also book your practical test by post. To download the application form, click here.
Payment can be made via cheque or postal order. Please note that cash payments are not accepted.

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 Module One Motorcycle
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Practical Test
What documents do I need to bring with me?
You must make sure that you bring the correct documentation with you on the day of your test, otherwise your
test may be cancelled and you may lose your fee.
•• Your Theory Test pass certificate (or confirmation) if you are not exempt
•• Both parts of your photo card licence
•• Your compulsory basic training certificates (for both modules)

Practical Test Module one

The manoeuvres that need to be carried out at specific speeds will be tested in module one, in a safe off-road
environment, also known as a motorcycle manoeuvring area. This should take approximately 20 minutes.

On the day of the module one test, you will be asked by the examiner to demonstrate your riding ability on
either the left-hand or right-hand circuit. Please note that the standard off-road layout may change due to local
conditions on the casual sites.

Manoeuvres you will be asked to perform include:

•• At least two manoeuvres carried out at slow speed, including a slalom
•• At least two manoeuvres carried out at higher speed, of which one exercise should be in second or third
gear, at a speed of at least 30 km/h (approx. 19 mph) and one exercise avoiding an obstacle at a minimum
speed of 50 km/h (approx. 32 mph)
•• At least two braking manoeuvres, including an emergency brake at a minimum speed of 50 km/h
(approx. 32 mph)

At the end of your test the examiner will give you the result and feedback from your test. If you pass module one,
you will receive a Test Pass Certificate which you MUST bring with you on the day of your module two test.

If you fail the module one test, you will not be allowed to take module two. You will need to re-book module one
and pass before you can progress to the next stage.

Module Two Motorcycle

Practical Test
Module two of the test will take about 40 minutes to complete consisting of:
•• The eyesight test
•• Vehicle safety and balance questions
•• The road riding element (including the new independent riding)

The examiner will usually follow you on their motorcycle and provide you with directional instructions via a radio.
The test will include normal stops, hill and angle starts.

What documents do I need to bring with me?

You must make sure that you bring the correct documentation with you on the day of your test, otherwise your
test may be cancelled and you may lose your fee.
•• Your Theory Test pass certificate (or confirmation) if you are not exempt
•• Both parts of your photo card licence
•• Your compulsory basic training certificate to both modules
•• Your module one test pass certificate

Vehicle safety and balance questions

As part of your module two motorcycle practical test you will be asked a vehicle safety and balance question.
11 Click here to download a list of all the safety and balance questions you could be asked by the examiner.
 Independent riding section of the riding test
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
You will also be expected to ride for approximately 10 minutes independently, also known as Independent Riding.
This part of the test is designed to assess your ability to ride safely while making decisions independently.

The practical moped riding test

The practical moped riding test (which does not include the high-speed requirements) will also be carried out in
two modules. The obstacle avoidance and emergency braking exercises will be carried out in Module 1 at 30 km/h
(approx. 19 mph).

At the end of the test

When the practical test is over, the examiner will tell you whether you have passed or failed. You can request
feedback on your test from the examiner, who will then go through your performance during the test. If you do
fail, you will need to wait 10 clear working days until you can book another Practical Test.

Safety Equipment
Motorcycling is not risk free, but a good rider ensures that they do everything to minimise those risks, be it
properly maintaining their bike, receiving further training and of course, wearing good quality, protective,
riding-gear.

Safety Helmets
It is the law in Britain that a helmet must be worn on the road and that it complies with British Standard BS
6658:1985. It also needs to carry the BSI Kite mark or another standard accepted by the European Community
and equal to BS 6658:1985.

In addition there is the Government backed SHARP (Safety Helmet Assessment and Rating Programme) which
independently tests helmets purchased from high street retailers. It is worth noting that the highest SHARP ratings
are not always given to the most expensive helmets. The other considerations should be for comfort and wind
noise.

The outer shell of the helmet is made from plastic and in some cases fibreglass, carbon fibre and Kevlar. The main
force of impact is taken on by the expandable polystyrene foam on the inside of the shell. Although the outer shell
will withstand the odd nick, any major first impact on a hard surface will affect the integrity of the inner layer and
should therefore be changed.

Helmets don’t last forever and (depending on use) should be changed every three to five years.

Different types of helmets

Full face helmet – The full face helmet will give you the greatest protection as it covers both the back of your
head and face. Some people can find these claustrophobic to start with so spend a few minutes in the shop
getting used to it before purchasing.

Flip front – The flip front will enable you to switch between an open face and full face helmet. This is particularly
useful when off the bike, talking to people, buying petrol and parking.

Open Face – The open face helmet will still protect your skull but will offer minimal protection to your face. Some
open face helmets come with a visor or need goggles (BS 6658:1985 permitting) to be worn to help protect the
eyes.

Choosing the right helmet for you

It is advisable when purchasing your helmet, that you do so from a high street retailer so that you can try
it on for size. The following link gives a good step by step guide in getting the right fitting helmet
http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/content/get-right-fit.

As a rule of thumb, always make sure that you wear it in the shop for at least a few minutes with the chin strap
fastened, ensuring the fit is snug but does not leave red marks on your forehead.
12
 Do not buy a second hand helmet as you won’t know its history or where it’s been (the outer shell might not
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
necessarily show visible damage but the inner shell could still be suffering from reduced protection).

It’s also not advisable to buy off the shelf where lots of people have tried on the helmet. This will not mould to
your head as well as a boxed model.

As you start trying on different helmets, you will find that certain makes fit your head much better than others.
You may have heard bikers having in-depth conversations about having an “Arai” or “Shoei” head for example.
When choosing your helmet, if you are not sure, ask the specialist in the shop for some help and advice.

Chin Straps
There are also variations of chin straps. The Double D fastener is probably most widely used and can be a bit fiddly
to get right at first.

Also available are the seat belt and sliding bar buckles. Whichever one you go for, make sure that you are familiar
with the design before purchasing but most importantly before setting off on your bike.

The fastener should be tight enough without causing discomfort and you should be able to slide two fingers
between the strap and your chin. Be warned that if you choose not to fasten the strap, technically you are not
wearing a helmet at all.

Earplugs
Earplugs are an important safety feature, and no matter how quiet the helmet is, they are still worth wearing.
At motorway speeds, the wind noise can be equivalent to standing next to a Jackhammer. This will affect
concentration, increase tiredness and can rapidly lead to permanent hearing loss.

The quality of earplugs varies tremendously, ranging from foam types available from bike shops and chemists to
those specially moulded to your own ear.

Visors
Visors should be kept clean and scratch free at all times. When cleaning with visor cleaner, make sure to check the
helmet manufacturer’s guidelines as some cleaning products degrade the visor and its supporting side pod.

Also be sure to check the legality of dark visors and avoid wearing a tinted visor at or after dusk. Some helmets
allow for pin lock inserts which help against misting. These are particularly useful in wet weather although they do
need changing fairly often. Breather guards and de-misting sprays are also available.

Gloves
Gloves are invaluable not only for safety but comfort; cold hands make braking and clutch control much more
difficult. The gloves should be a snug fit but also enable you to reach the controls and be able to maintain an
accurate ‘feel’.

Many bikers will wear summer and winter gloves. The latter tend to be a lot thicker, heavier and waterproof in
order to withstand harsher weather conditions. The use of heated grips, hand guards and handlebar muffs can
enable you to wear the lighter and more flexible ‘summer gloves’ further into the colder seasons.

Boots
Motorcycle boots will cover various different parts of the foot including toes, shin and ankles depending on height
and design. Manufacturers now offer quite a selection; from race styling to a shoe like design for town riders.
Many others offer all day comfort but are fully protective and waterproof.

It is common to see town riders wearing trainers or army boots. It is really worth bearing in mind that if the bike
is to drop on you, the majority of the weight will come down on your feet. It’s not uncommon for people to lose a
foot because of this. A good pair of purpose-designed motorcycle boots are your best and most protective option.

13
 Jacket and Trousers
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Man-made material textiles now offer a lot more flexibility and are probably more ‘user friendly’ than leathers
particularly if you want to be able to wear your normal clothes underneath. They also tend to be more waterproof
and breathable as well as having the added protection of being CE armoured.

Waterproof suits that go over leathers are also available, but try and get them on before the thunderstorm hits!

High visibility
Although it should not replace your own awareness, high visibility clothing can help reduce occurrences of
SMIDSY (Sorry Mate I Didn’t See You), and is particularly useful in the dark and in poor visibility.

Hi Vis clothing can vary from the Sam Browne belt put across regular jackets to integrated fluorescent outfits. It
is worth bearing in mind that the use of high visibility clothing (including helmet colours) may also help with
insurance compensation in the event of an accident (it makes it hard for another road-user to argue that you
couldn’t be seen).

Remember, wearing safe, high-quality clothing does not mean not looking good or being uncomfortable.
It also does not have to be expensive. The choice of clothing can say a lot about a person as well as their general
attitude to riding a motorcycle.

Regular Maintenance Checks

We know it’s a cliché, but look after your bike as it will definitely look after you. It isn’t necessary to know one end
of a spanner from another in order to perform basic motorcycle checks. It is a good idea to perform a systematic
check on a regular basis, though. One acronym that many people use is POWDER.

P = Petrol
You won’t get far without it, and you will be guaranteed to annoy your mates if you have to stop twenty miles
into a group ride. Remember full tank, empty bladder. Many tanks have gauges and countdown readers but it is
best not to push your luck!

O = Oil
This is the lubricant of the engine and it is important not to let it get too low, as this may cause a seizure.
Be sure to also check the oil levels on level ground and if you do not have a centre stand, ensure that the bike
is held upright off its side stand.

Let the bike run to operating temperature and then give it a couple of minutes for the oil to settle. Bikes either
have an oil window or dipstick. In terms of the dipstick you are looking for a blob that should sit above the
minimum marker but not above the high marker. Slowly top up the oil and check it as you go to avoid overfilling.
Be sure to check the particular grade of oil that the bike needs with either the dealer or in the manufacturer
handbook.

W = Water
If appropriate, check your bike’s coolant levels through the expansion tank. Be aware that coolant expands within
the tank, so do not fill the coolant to the max (unless you like the feel of warm liquid in your boots).
Indeed, many manufacturers top the coolant to just above the minimum level to allow for the expansion.

D = Damage/Drive Chain
You should check that your bike does not have any damage that may be a danger to your ride. If your bike
has one, regularly lube the chain particularly after a wet journey. A quick spray of chain cleaner followed by an
application of chain lubricant will mean that you are not spraying over layers of dirt. Keeping the chain clean,
will extend its life and reduce the need for maintenance.

Make sure that you adjust the chain as per the manufacturer’s guidelines. When tightening a chain be sure that it
is not too tight as this can cause excessive damage to the gears. When adjusting the chain, take account for your
own weight on the bike as well as that of any pillion or luggage. A quick check is to see if you can pull the chain
away from the sprocket. If you can, then it is far too loose and needs immediate adjustment.
14
 E = Electrics
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
Check your electrics (indicators, brake lights, headlights - full and dipped beam) and make sure that your
headlights are clean from road grime and salt before setting off on every journey.

R = Rubber
Regular checks of tyre pressures will give you ultimate grip and braking response. Be sure to check them
according to the manufacturers guidelines and when cold. Bike manufacturers will often recommend particular
makes of tyre most compatible with their bikes. Also be sure to check your tyre tread wear; it is advisable not to
wait until the legal limit of 1mm is reached.

Other regular checks should be for brake wear, front fork wear (push down on the forks and they should come
back up smoothly), and smooth steering with no catches (raise the bike off its front wheel using an appropriate
stand and move the bars from side to side). Be sure that you keep to the servicing schedules and consult with an
expert if you have any serious doubts.

All Weather Riding

Riding in winter
When riding in winter always ensure that you wear good-quality warm clothing that is waterproof. Coldness will
affect your ability to concentrate and increase your reaction time for hazards. Winter creates additional distractions
for other road-users and pedestrians, so make sure the clothing you wear is highly visible.

Equipment such as hand-guards and heated grips will offer much needed protection for your hands. If they do
become cold make sure you stop before it gets too late.

Reduced vision
Salt and grit from the road will reduce your vision. Always carry a visor cleaning kit and use when appropriate.
Wearing a demisting insert in your visor or applying a fog-resistant spray will help with visibility. Failing that,
slightly lifting the visor to let air flow in, will also be some help.

Ensure that you have plenty of stops to help remain alert and you’ll be surprised at how much difference a hot
drink can make!

Maintain your bike

Your trusty metal steed will look after you so make sure you do the same in return. Applying anti-corrosive sprays
like GT-85 or WD-40 will keep the rust away (but be careful where you apply it: WD-40 oversprayed onto a brake
disc can be dangerous). If possible wash your bike after every ride. This does not necessarily mean a three hour
valet, just a rinse to clear off any road salt.

Chain
If your bike has one, regularly lube the chain, particularly after a wet ride. A quick spray of chain cleaner followed
by an application of chain lubricant will mean that you are not spraying over layers of dirt. A clean chain will
extend its life and reduce the need for maintenance.

Tyres
Regular checks of tyre pressures will give you ultimate grip and braking response. Be sure to check them
according to the manufacturers guidelines and when cold. Bike manufacturers will often recommend particular
makes of tyre most compatible with their bikes. Also be sure to check your tyre tread wear. It is advisable,
particularly in winter and wet weather for the tread not to be left until the legal limit of 1mm is reached.

Electrics
Check your electrics (indicators, brake lights, headlights - full and dipped beam) and make sure that your
headlights are clean from road grime and salt before setting off on every journey.

15
 Riding in the snow and icy conditions
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Riding in the snow is great fun if you are on a snow plough but not so great on a motorbike. It is unlikely on your
test or training that you will end up riding in such extreme conditions. However, if you do find yourself riding in
snow or icy conditions, try and bear in mind the following:

Stay relaxed
If you are too tense this will affect your bike’s handling and make for harsher steering inputs. Also relax the bike
by keeping in a higher gear than usual (which will reduce the chances of your wheels spinning). Car drivers may
not be as aware of the slippery conditions as you will be, so do not feel pressurised into speeding up.

Keep warm
The right equipment both in clothing and on the motorcycle (such as heated grips) will ensure that you are able
to concentrate longer and will reduce fatigue. Still make sure to take plenty of breaks and have a hot drink to keep
your core temperature up.

Keep it smooth
Slow down and plan as you ride. Avoid making harsh movements on your brakes, steering or throttle which may
cause instability. In order to do this you will have to allow much more reaction time and stopping distance. When
braking, make sure you do so gradually and in plenty of time.

Keep off the ice

Many rural and minor roads will remain untreated in the winter, so where possible, plan your route to include
major roads. Due to the biggest drop in temperature, the most treacherous time of riding will be late at night or in
the early hours, so try and avoid these times if possible.

Riding in the rain

Clothing
Wear good clothing that is waterproof and visible. Getting wet and cold will dramatically reduce your concentration
levels and increase fatigue.

Visibility
Wearing a demisting insert in your visor or applying a fog-resistant spray will help with visibility. Failing that,
slightly lifting the visor to let in air will also be of some help.

Focus
Often when riding in the wet, there is a big temptation to focus at the ground straight in front of the wheels. Try
instead to lift your vision and ride at a pace that enables you to take in all the information around you.

Road surfaces
Be wary of road surfaces that can become slippery and adapt your riding accordingly. Road paint, drain covers,
road banding and other such irregularities should be avoided in a timely and smooth manner. If possible keep the
bike upright (therefore maximising tyre grip) and avoid using the front brake abruptly or harshly as it is liable to
result in a skid and loss of control.

Riding in fog
Mist and fog can make riding treacherous. Always ride at a speed that allows you to stop within the distance
you can see. Never feel under pressure by others (and their possible lack of judgement) to go faster than the
conditions and visibility allow.

Visibility
Make sure you wear high visibility clothing to increase your chances of being seen. Use a dipped beam rather than
full beam which will bounce off the fog creating a ‘wall’ ahead of you.

Overtaking
If overtaking a slower moving vehicle, always allow for the possibility that vision may be reduced once the vehicle
16 is passed. Also do not assume that oncoming traffic will have their lights on.
 Riding at night
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Night riding can provide riders with extra clues (though not always) as to the road terrain and direction, as well as
the presence of oncoming traffic.

Visibility
Always make sure that you maximise your chances of being seen by wearing high visibility clothing when riding
at night.

Street Lighting
Naturally, it’s more difficult to see in low light, particularly in areas where there is no street lighting. Be aware of
this and reduce your speed accordingly, as well as being extra vigilant.

Reduce your speed

Watch your speed. It’s much more dangerous to ride too fast in the dark than during the day. You can only see
as far ahead as your headlights allow, meaning you have much less time to assess the road ahead and spot any
potential hazards.

Keep a safe distance

Leave more room between yourself and any vehicles in front. If they have to brake suddenly for an unexpected
hazard, you need to give yourself plenty of time to stop and avoid a collision.

Town and urban roads

In town and urban situations the road will usually be illuminated by street lighting, although this in itself can create
shadows. Many pedestrians will not be as conscious of the need to be visible. Therefore, you should ride at a pace
in which you can scan the area in front and all around, whilst still being able to react to any potential hazards.

Country roads
On country roads the only light available may be your front headlight. Full beam will increase your vision, but
make sure you switch to dipped beam when oncoming traffic approaches as you may dazzle other road users.
This also applies when you are following another vehicle.

Riding in the summer

Although altogether more pleasant, riding in summer conditions does come with its own dangers.

Rising temperatures
Hot weather can sap concentration levels in a similar way to when riding in the cold. Be sure to remain hydrated
and carry water with you if riding for a long period of time.

Safety clothing
Do not be tempted to ditch your quality gear for shorts and flip flops. It’s essential that you wear your safety
clothing no matter how hot it is. You’ll find a wide variety of summer clothing available to suit all tastes!

Glare
Sunlight glare can be blinding and cause a loss of vision. Be conscious of this particularly when riding through
woodland which can create a strobing effect.

Road surfaces
Always remember that after long periods of dry weather, road surfaces can become very slippery after a
downpour.

17
 Braking
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Understanding how to use your brakes correctly is an essential part of biking and one day may make the
difference between being involved in an accident and avoiding one.

Applying the brakes

There are two brakes on a motorcycle, the front and the rear. When braking in most situations you should apply
the front slightly before the rear, in a gradual manner and in plenty of time. Approximately 75% of braking effort
should be applied to the front brake with the remaining 25% on the rear.

Some riders are concerned that applying the front brake will result in going over the handlebars and therefore
concentrate most of their braking on the rear. However this will deprive the bike of the majority of its braking
capabilities. In fact, too much pressure on the rear can result in a rear tyre lock up and a skid.

Make sure that you are fully aware of the capabilities of your bike’s brakes. Familiarise yourself as to how ABS
(Anti-Lock Brakes) and multi-linked brakes affect the overall braking performance of your bike.

Plan ahead
Be sure to look as far ahead as possible as this will allow you to react to changes in the road ahead, such as
varying road surfaces, drain covers or debris in the road.

Stopping Distances
The stopping distance is the overall distance covered by your bike during an emergency stop, and combines
thinking and braking distance, from the moment you realise you need to brake to the moment when your bike
actually stops.

TIP: Here is a great way to remember the overall stopping distances. Starting from 20 mph you simply multiply the
speed by intervals of 0.5, beginning with 2, for example, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5 etc as follows:

20 mph x 2 = 40 feet
30 mph x 2.5 = 75 feet
40 mph x 3 = 120 feet
50 mph x 3.5 = 175 feet
60 mph x 4 = 240 feet
70 mph x 4.5 = 315 feet

The above calculations are a simple way to help you remember the correct stopping distances, but please be
aware that these are approximate. The overall stopping distance is really the only safe separation gap, anything
less than this is taking a risk.

Typical Stopping Distances

Typical Stopping Distances
20 mph = 12 metres (40 feet) The distances shown are a general guide. The distance will depend
(32 km/h) 6m 6m or three car lengths on your attention (thinking distance), the road surface, the weather
conditions and the condition of your vehicle at the time.
30 mph = 23 metres (75 feet)
(48 km/h) 9m 14 m or six car lengths
Thinking Distance Braking Distance
40 mph = 36 metres (118 feet) Average car length = 4 metres (13 feet)
(64 km/h) 12 m 24 m or nine car lengths

50 mph = 53 metres (175 feet)

(80 km/h) 15 m 38 m or thirteen car lengths

60 mph = 73 metres (240 feet)

(96 km/h) 18 m 55 m or eighteen car lengths

70 mph = 96 metres (315 feet)

(112 km/h) 21 m 75 m or twenty-four car lengths

18
 Typical stopping distances
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
Your overall stopping distance depends on the speed you are travelling, the gradient or incline, the condition of
the road, weather, brakes, tyres, and your riding ability. If you are tired or sick, your reaction times will be slower.
It takes well over half a second for most people to react. In that time, depending on your speed, you may have
travelled a considerable distance.

Separation Distances
Multiple vehicle collisions, or pile-ups, are caused by drivers being too close to the vehicle in front, and not
allowing for reaction time and stopping distance. A good rule would be to leave one metre for every mile per hour.
For example, a speed of 30 mph would mean a gap of 30 metres. In wet weather, double this to two metres per
mile per hour.

The Two Second Rule

To check if your distance from the vehicle in front is sufficient, apply this rule. Pick a point on the road ahead;
a bridge or a signpost would be appropriate. When the vehicle in front passes this point, it should take you
at least 2 seconds (4 seconds in wet weather) to pass the same point.

If it is less than two seconds, increase the gap and recheck. This is especially useful when riding at higher speeds,
say, on the motorway or dual carriageways.

Junctions and Side Roads

Picture the scene…it’s a lovely summers afternoon and you’re riding down an open road with the sun beating
down on you. Travelling behind you is a lorry, and just ahead is a junction with a car waiting to pull out.

As you approach the junction you see the driver of the emerging vehicle glancing from side to side checking for a
safe gap in the traffic to pull out. But before you know it, the driver pulls out from the side road straight into your
path.

Hopefully you will never hear a SMIDSY (Sorry Mate I Didn’t See You) uttered by a driver who had five seconds
earlier been staring straight at you – but it does happen, and all too often.

There is often a rationale to this behaviour and it comes down to prioritisation. A driver will prioritise a bigger
vehicle and may sometimes not even be aware of the motorcycle heading straight towards them.

It’s important that you are fully aware of the dangers when riding in front of a bus or lorry and approaching a car
waiting in a side road or junction.

What can I do about it?

Scan and plan – Make sure you move your head from side to side and don’t just look straight ahead of you.
This will help to expand your vision line and give you the necessary information you need to react in good time.
Mirrors – Always use your mirrors to check what is behind you.
Visibility – Ensure that you are as visible as possible in terms of clothing and road position.
Clear intentions – Check that you are clear in your intentions (have you left your indicator on, are you in a road
position that may give drivers the wrong impression).
Speed – Ride at a speed that allows you to process information at a steady pace and consider slowing down and
being ready to stop when approaching junctions and side roads.
Position – Make sure you are positioned accordingly for the road you are riding on.
Gears – As well as riding at an appropriate speed, make sure you are using a responsive gear that will allow you
to accelerate in good time, or use engine braking to help you to stop quickly.
Driver behaviour – Be aware of driver behaviour and try to make eye contact – never assume the driver has seen
you.
Horn – Consider using the horn (but be courteous and wave a thank you after passing the vehicle).
Lights – If your bike does not have permanently-on daytime running lights, consider using your headlight to
19 increase your visibility.
 Cornering
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

One of the biggest causes of motorcycling incidents (or ‘offs’) is rider error in relation to bends.

The basic cause of cornering error is that the rider has not taken into account all of the information available to
them and has gone into a bend with a speed that they perceived as low enough – but which turns out to be too
fast.

The ‘fight or flight’ instinct has kicked in and the front brake has been pulled, causing the bike to straighten up and
obediently head towards where the rider is looking, usually a hedge or other undesirable landing spot.

Although you will not be expected to ride to this standard on your test it is useful to be aware of the system that
the police and advanced riders use when riding.

Information
Before entering the corner try to build in as many clues as possible as to the layout of the road. Telegraph poles
and hedges for example may indicate (but do not always) the nature of the upcoming bend. Smells are also a
useful tool: animal manure may be a sign that you are approaching a farm and might possibly encounter mud on
the road.

When tense, we tend to adopt tunnel vision and look down at the ground right in front of us which in turn gives us
very little information. Keeping your vision up as much as possible will help provide information and inspire more
confidence.

Make sure that you are aware of what is behind you as well as in front.

Position
When cornering you need to position yourself for the best view of the road ahead. By getting into position as early
as possible, you will allow yourself the maximum reaction time for hazards that may develop ahead of you.

For right hand bends moving to the left will give you the best vision, but you should always position yourself
correctly so you can safely account for junctions, side roads and varying road surfaces ahead of you.

For left hand bends you should edge to the right of your lane, but care must be taken that this position does not
potentially interfere with oncoming traffic which may cut across the centre line.

Speed
If the vision point (the point in which the road appears to meet) is moving towards you, ease off the throttle and
then start to brake if the point is still approaching you.

Your speed should always be adapted to suit the type of road you are travelling on. Remember to keep a big
enough space in front of you that will allow you to stop safely and most importantly, remain on your side of the
road. Remember, slow in fast out.

Gear
After the reduction of speed, the point should appear as if it is not moving at all. Make sure that you are in a nice
responsive gear that will help take you through the corner. This gear selection should be done after braking but
before entering the bend.

Acceleration
By this we don’t mean pinning the throttle open but rather keeping a balanced input. As the bike leans into the
corner a nice smooth input will help keep the bike on the right line and see you through the bend. Be sure to
continue to look where you need to go, once the bend opens up and the bike straightens, continue to accelerate
until you exit the bend.

20
 Steering
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Whilst steering on a bike, it’s important to ensure that your movements are smooth and controlled. Even the most
gentle of inputs can make the bike change direction.

Counter steering
You may have heard the term ‘counter steering’ or indeed been treated to complicated explanations of how this
works.

A simpler way is to regard this is as ‘positive’ steering. Even without knowing it, you will apply positive steering to
the bike for anything over 15 mph. It is important to understand how these inputs affect the bike in case you need
to swerve in an emergency.

If you want to go right, a smooth gentle input to the right bar will lean the bike in that direction. The more you
lean, the greater the input will be, but you should remain steady and controlled. Avoid harsh and heavy inputs
which will affect stability and steering.

If you get a chance to see a police rider, notice how they seem completely relaxed and effortless in the way they
take a roundabout or corner. Their inputs to the steering will be so gentle and smooth that it will appear as if they
are gliding from one part of the road to the other.

The ability to do this also is affected by their riding position. Gripping a bike’s handlebars tightly and sitting in a
rigid manner will ensure that the bike will respond the same way. Keep your elbows slightly bent and to the side
of your body, as well as slightly below your wrists. Remember to keep your head up and look in the direction you
want to travel, as this will help when steering.

Remember to keep the bike in a responsive gear as this will also have an effect on the steering.

Overtaking
In the hierarchy of motor vehicles, motorcyclists are unfortunately down near the bottom. However, bikers do
have certain advantages that level the playing field.

One of these advantages is the nimbleness and rapid acceleration that bikes are capable of, compared to other
vehicles, as well as an increased view due to the higher riding position.

Overtaking, when done safely and within legal limits, enables you to negotiate hazards and make progress.
It does also happen to be the cause of a large number of motorcycle accidents and fatalities.

Before you overtake other vehicles on the road, you must have accounted for a number of factors including:
•• The position of the vehicle you are about to pass (is their road position or speed indicating a possible
change of direction?)

•• re you approaching any junctions or side roads? If so, delay overtaking and reassess the situation once you
A
have passed the junction. Even if you can’t see the actual side road, other indications such as road signs or
gaps in houses will provide information.

•• re there any signs or road markings that prohibit you from overtaking and are you confident that you know
A
what these signs or road markings mean? If not refer to the Highway Code.

•• I s there enough space between the vehicle you are overtaking and the next one that you can overtake
without pushing in, or causing the vehicle to slow down or alter course.

•• hen passing lines of slow-moving vehicles, be extremely wary of gaps in the traffic opening up.
W
These may be to allow a vehicle to emerge from a side road. Always check your mirrors and slow down.

•• Ensure you use OSM (Observation, Signal, Manoeuvre) and PSL (Position, Speed, Look) before committing to
the overtaking manoeuvre.

21
 Country Roads
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking

Many bikers cite that the reason for their enjoyment of motorcycling is the freedom it gives them. Riding through
the countryside with its sounds, smells and tight corners can present many hazards, but by concentrating fully on
what is occurring around you, can make your ride much safer and more enjoyable.

Relax
When riding through the countryside it is important to relax as much as possible. No one likes to be manhandled
and held in a vice like grip and motorbikes are no different. Most bikes are more competent than the rider, so take
advantage of this fact and do not fight it.

Assess the road ahead and take in all the information around you. This will help you to react to developing hazards
in good time. Do not stare at the ground but instead look as far ahead as you can and scan the horizon.

Ride at a pace that will allow you to take in all the information around you, but not so slow that it becomes boring
(which may cause you to switch off).

In tight single lane country roads, always include the braking distance not only for you but the possible traffic
coming the other way.

Buying a New Bike

Purchasing your first bike can often be a little overwhelming. You’ve probably noticed by now, that there is an
extensive range of motorcycles and scooters on the market, so how do you know which one is right for you?

Licence requirements
You will know if you have read all about the different types of licences that you may be restricted in the size of
bike you can ride. Get the bike to fit your licence, or take further training to upgrade your licence.

Insurance costs
You may think it great to hop aboard a race replica sports bike as your first ride but an insurance company may
well have other ideas. Indeed, the costs of insuring may well be higher than the actual price of the motorcycle.

Insurance companies do tend to be competitive when it comes to attracting new customers, so it’s worth
searching the web or calling round for a quote. A good rule of thumb is that the first call is the most expensive
quote with your last call the cheapest.

Online comparison sites can be a quick way of getting a whole group of quotes at once. However, do not only rely
on price as in the event of an accident you will need to be sure that you have the right cover. If you need help
finding the right insurance policy visit www.drivingtestsuccess.com/bike-insurance.

Budget
Can you afford it? Try not to only budget for the bike but also the running costs and protective equipment.
Petrol is expensive and if you are going to do lots of miles this should be accounted for. Think about the sort of
accessories you will want on the bike. If you are going to ride in the winter for example, heated grips may be a
useful addition. It might be that you can hold out for certain items such as heated grips which will only be needed
in the winter.

When it comes to accessorising your bike, don’t get carried away. Think carefully about what you really need.
A touring screen may seem a great idea when flicking through the catalogue, but if you’re not planning on going
touring, why bother?

Hire purchase
If you are going to put the bike on to hire purchase, be prepared to consider that if you cause serious damage you
may be left paying monthly repayments for a bike that you no longer have. Also take this into consideration when
it comes to purchasing your insurance.

22
 Type of riding
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
The handlebar position of a sports bike means that a lot of weight is transferred onto the wrists, and the
overall ergonomics are cramped. This can mean that riding through town or on long stretches of motorway
can be particularly tiring. If you will be doing these types of journeys on a regular basis, then it might be worth
reconsidering.

A scooter or smaller bike will be just as progressive through town as a bigger bike, but not so good for those
Sunday morning ride outs. If buying your bike on a beautiful summer’s day, spare a thought for when the climate
becomes a bit less hospitable. Will you be happy commuting in winter, or is it going to be a fair weather only
affair?

Capabilities
Be realistic about your choice. Passing your test is the first step but you will still have a journey of learning ahead
of you. Is your bike of choice going to help with your education or be a hindrance?

Manufacturers are very encouraging towards the new rider market and there is an unbelievable range of bikes that
are fun and manageable aimed at the new rider. 600 cc motorcycles for example have a more manageable power
delivery than 1 litre bikes but can still be great fun, even for the more experienced rider.

New or used
Some will decide that for the first bike a used one is best, not only for costs but also in the event of any damage
incurred. Although we all do our best to keep it shiny side up, the very nature of something that balances on two
wheels, means that it can sometimes find itself dropped.

This will be even more likely when you are just learning. Bear this in mind when deciding between new and used.
However, one advantage of a new bike will be the peace of mind that any mechanical failures will be dealt with
under warranty.

What to do if you’re Involved

in an Accident
Unfortunately accidents do happen and will undoubtedly be a stressful experience. Ensure that you are always
prepared for this event. Always carry a first aid kit with you, a notebook and pen, camera (or camera phone) and
your insurance details.

It is also worth entering an ICE (In Case of Emergency) contact on your phone. ICE should be stored in contacts
ahead of the name, for example ICE Mark. Also available are dog tags or contact slips that go inside clothing and
helmets.

Remain calm
Shouting and swearing will not help anyone and may make the matter worse. It may also put off potentially
supportive witnesses. Remain level headed as much as possible and assess the situation.

Get away from danger

Check that there are no immediate serious injuries. Get someone to alert other traffic. If needed, move away from
danger but never leave the scene until all details have been exchanged. Call 999 if necessary.

Often, well-meaning passers-by will try and help lift up the bike for you. Skin and hot metal do not mix, so make
sure your bike is lifted safely for all concerned.

Do not admit liability

Having an accident can be a very emotional experience and cloud one’s judgement. Wait for the cold light of day
before deciding on fault and speak to your insurers first.

Get Evidence
Take photos of the area and record any witness statements and their contact details in your notebook. Take the
23 other drivers insurance and contact details, number plate and take photographs of any damage to their vehicle.
 Contact your insurance company
The Beginner’s Guide to Biking
It is very important to do this as soon as possible, as long delays in notifying them may affect your claim.
Be aware of your policy details as you may be entitled to a replacement vehicle and a solicitor. If not, there are
companies that will represent individuals in non-fault accidents.

Take your time

Where possible, do not jump straight back on to your bike. Give yourself time to calm down. This will give time for
the adrenaline to wear off and to assess whether you have sustained any injuries.

Further Information
We hope you have found the information in this book useful. You can find further help and advice in preparing for
your Theory, Hazard Perception and Practical Riding Test on our Driving Test Success website. Take a free mock
Theory Test, watch a video about the Hazard Perception Test and stay up to date with everything that’s going on
in the world of learning to ride.

Find out more at www.drivingtestsuccess.com

Join our friendly community!
Need some advice? Then come and meet like-minded learner riders and instructors over on our Facebook and
Twitter pages. Thanks to our friendly community, you’ll never be on your own when learning to ride.

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