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Community Supported Agriculture, Food Consumption

Patterns, and Member Commitment


Carol Goland 1996). Thus, through its social and economic benefits, a local
food system helps rebuild community (Norberg-Hodge 19%,
Carol Goland is assistant professor of environmental studies 1998). Elements of local food systems include farmers'mar-
at Denison University in Granville, Ohio. kets, direct marketing, food co-ops, roadside stands, "buy-
local"campaigns, institutional buying agreements, and Com-
munity Supported Agriculture (CSA).
Introduction The (re-)emergence of local food systems runs counter
to several current trends in U.S. food consumption patterns.
Great costs are associated with our globalized food sys- During the 1990s, spending on food away from home grew
tem and the industrial agriculture system on which it is much more rapidly than spending on food at home (Ciauson
based, whether calculated in an environmental or social cur- 2000). Of every dollar spent on food in this country, 47 cents
rency. The current context for agriculture in the United is spent on food eaten away from home. Much of the addi-
States creates extreme pressures for yield increases and re- tional away-from-home food expenditures occur at fast food
wards economies of scale. The costs which result from these venues (Jekanowski 2000), whose growth has vastly out-
forces include run-off of farm chemicals that has degraded paced other commercial dining establishments (Price 2000).
soils and polluted waterways (Gliessman 1998; Pimental et Food purchased to be eaten at home increasingly includes
al. 1995; Sampat 2001; Soule and Piper 1992), endangered quick, easily prepared meals, often relying on pre-processed
health of farm laborers (Pimental et al. 1992; Soule and Piper elements to reduce preparation time (e.g., already sliced veg-
1992), loss of farmland and family farms (Stauber et al. 1995), etables, marinated meats, etc.) (Elitzak 2000). Only slightly
and reduced vitality of rural communities (Berry 1992; more than half of the dinners eaten in American homes have
Heffernan 2000). For most U.S. food consumers, some 275 one or more homemade dishes (Bowers 2000). Despite a sig-
million of us, purchasing and consuming food makes us part nificant rise in consumer spending on food, farmers' earn-
of that globalized food system, and unwitting contributors ings on each food dollar have remained flat. This is largely
to the social and environmental degradation it creates. accounted for by rising marketing costs, such as the value-
Given the distance our food travels and the number of added processing and packaging of at-home foods (Bowers
links it passes through as it travels the chain from field to 2000). Since the allocation of food dollars is closely related to
table, it is not surprising that people are largely ignorant of changes in disposable income (Blisard 2000), these trends
the environmental and social costs associated with our food reflect, at least partly, the general (though certainly not uni-
system (Kloppenburg , Hendrickson, and Stevenson 1996). versal) prosperity of the past decade. Also driving the trends
A number of researchers and activists have advanced local are longer workdays, and a greater number of households in
food systems to remedy this problem (e.g., Gussow 1991; which both adults work outside the home (Jekanowski 1999).
Kloppenburg, Hendrickson, and Stevenson 1996). The pro- Consumers are eating out more but, when staying home,
motion of local food systems is premised on the belief that in they seek to purchase foods that will minimize the time they
order to create a more sustainable agriculture, those who eat spend preparing foods. In contrast, local food systems offer
(not just those who produce) will need to develop a philoso- produce so minimally processed that dirt may still be cling-
phy and act on a set of values that are congruentwith a sus- ing to it. Produce available from local food sources both
tainable agricultural future (Clancy 1997; Thompson 1995). beckons consumers back home to eat and increases their
A local food system has the potential to connect consum- food preparation time.
ers both to the land that produces their food and to the farm- My focus here is on CSAs, one element of a local food
ers who grow it for them. It also has the potential to recon- system. Specifically, I examine the ease or difficulty with
nect and revitalize relationships between people, groups, which individuals shift towards obtaining food from this
and institutions that have become distanced by the conven- local source, given the patterns favoring convenience noted
tional system (Kloppenburg, Hendrickson, and Stevenson above. My concern is whether the relative inconvenience oi

Culture & Agriculture 14 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2001


dealing with fresh produce impacts the experience of CSA As local food systems, CSAs provide a number of bene-
members, and how this relates to member commitment. fits in contrast to the global alternative. CSAs reduce the hid-
While we know that the desire for fresh organic produce den costs associated with our food system. Food travels far
motivates many consumers to join CSAs (Kane 1997; Laird when produced and distributed in the conventional food sys-
1998) and that their diets do differ nutritionally from non- tem. Estimates of the distance food travels on average range
members (Cohen et al. 1997), little attention has been given from 1,129 to 2,146 miles (Pirog et al. 2001). In contrast, food
to how the convenience factor has played out as the lived circulating in CSAs travels a maximum of 200 miles (Imhoff
experience of CSA members. In this paper, I briefly review 1996) and typically far less. Thus, less energy is consumed
the opportunities provided by CSAs, and then turn my at- transporting food. Farmland is preserved and since CSAs
tention to examining the challenge of high turnover among seem to be particularly successful as a link between rural
CSA members. I hope to make three modest points: (1) CSAs producers and urban consumers, this is especially important
require their members to deal with food, food processing, on the urban fringe where development pressures are so
and meal preparation in a way which may be unfamiliar to intense (Kelvin 1994). CSAs also reduce the waste-stream
them; (2) The challenge of dealing with food and meal pre- associated with our food system, by minimizing the need for
paration in new ways is responsible for much of the high packaging (Kittredge 1996). In contrast to conventional crop -
turnover rate experienced by CSAs; and (3) CSA members ping systems, CSA food is typically produced using organic,
who have environmental and social concerns and have con- or at least "ecological sensitive," methods (Van En 1997). As
ceptually linked these to the food system are most likely to sustainable agricultural systems, they rely on regionally ap-
endure as CSA shareholders. propriate food varieties and production methods. These fac-
tors, in addition to the freedom to select varieties other than
What Is CSA? those bred to transport and store well, maintain biodiversity
and local ecological knowledge. Therefore, in addition to the
Community Supported Agriculture is a direct partner- direct benefits CSAs provide to their members, they also
ship between a farmer/grower and consumers. Consumers supply externalized environmental benefits that are distrib-
pay an annual fee up-front (often before planting has even uted across a wider community (Lass and Sanneh 1997). As
occurred) in exchange for a weekly share of the future har- food dollars are kept circulating locally, the community
vest. If the garden produces well, the consumer shareholders benefits economically (Kittredge 1996).
will receive a bountiful array of vegetables and fruits. If the For those who do participate in CSAs, there are addi-
garden or certain items in it fail, shareholders may receive tional direct benefits. For growers, CSA provides a way for
less overall, or even none of certain items. Thus, the central them to share the risk of food production. It does so by guar-
element in CSA definition is that growers and consumers anteeing them their market. They do not have to spend time
share together in the food bounty as well as the risk inherent during the growing season searching for markets, they do
in its production. not have to contend with the economic risk of climate or
The first CSAs in this country were established in 1986 pests that may leave them with no product to market, nor do
in the Northeast. They remain most densely located there, they have to contend with the risk of selling produce in a
although CSAs are now found in every state. But the origins flooded market where prices will be low. And because the
of CSA date back at least thirty years when Japanese women, annual fee is paid up-front, the CSA farmer gets an influx of
concerned with the increased price of food, asked local cash to cover operating expenses at the same time his or her
farmers to grow directly for them. The farmers agreed, on conventional neighbor is signing a note for a loan to cover
the condition that a number of families agree to support operating expenses.
them. In Japanese, this concept is referred to as "teikei," mean- Consumers also benefit. They are provided with food
ing "partnership," but is literally translated to mean "food they see as "safe," and that safety arises because of the near-
with the farmer's face on it" (Wells, Gradwell, and Yoder universal tendency for CSA produce to be grown using sus-
1999:38). In comparison, one face ubiquitously associated tainable, often organic, methods. The fact that it is "local,"
with food in the United States, and increasingly throughout and has a face associated with it, provides a measure of trust
much of the rest of the world, is Ronald McDonald's. This is even in the absence of any certification process. Through this
an apt contrast, since CSAs represent a movement away arrangement, shareholders pay significantly less than they
from the globalized and homogenized food system so un- would for comparable produce purchased retail (Cooley and
flinchingly represented by Ronald (Ritzer 2000). Lass 1998). At least part of this saving derives from avoiding

Culture & Agriculture 15 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


spending large portions of their food dollars for long-distance in the cost oi their share. Some CSAs require their members
transport. And, weather and pests permitting, shareholders to work (22 percent of them, according to Laird's 1995 sur-
are guaranteed regular, fresh, local, organic produce. vey, cited in Henderson 1999: 80), but these appear to be in
the minority. The willingness or ability of shareholders to
Each CSA is Different contribute labor depends in part on where the farm is lo-
Currently there are over 1,000 CSAs operating in the cated relative to its member base.
U.S. and Canada, serving perhaps as many as 100,000 house- One of the biggest logistical challenges for CSAs is how
holds (Center for CSA Resources). A 1992 study of CSAs to get food from field to home. Distribution is determined by
found they had between 35 and 200 members, and that the a number of factors: distance between farm and shareholder
average CSA farm was 14 hectares in size (Greer 1999). The homes, refrigeration possibility, trucking and storage capa-
typical weekly share consisted of 3-5 kilograms of food, com- city, in addition to labor availability. One common arrange-
monly divided between 6-12 items. Per week, prices ranged ment is to have shareholders come to the farm to pick up
from $10-35. The average share cost $346 for 22 weeks of pro- their allotment. This arrangement provides members with
duce, but the range in membership cost was $225-500 on an the opportunity to pack their own share, saving labor for the
annual basis (Greer 1999). Recently, CSAs have been grow- grower and/or other members responsible for coordinating
ing larger, with 200-400 shareholders not uncommon. For ex- the distribution. Some CSAs give members significant choice
ample, one CSA farm in Illinois now serves over 800 house- in the composition of their weekly share, providing "mix-
holds weekly. Beyond differences in the size of the farm, and-match" possibilities among the array of items available
acreage, and membership, there are many variations on the at that time. Other CSAs may rely on a central distribution
CSA theme. site (e.g., the parking lot of a school) or several different sites
CSAs have been created in various ways. In many in- (sometimes provided by shareholders) and have a 2-3 hour
stances, the farmer initiates the CSA. The farmer may al- period once a week when shares can be retrieved. This may
ready be experienced growing food and seeks to alter his or provide less opportunity for shareholder choice, but is ad-
her marketing arrangement, switching from reliance on con- vantageous when the distance from the shareholders' homes
ventional markets to a CSA arrangement. Or a new farmer to the farm is great. Finally, some CSAs may deliver bagged
may also choose to begin with a CSA as a small-scale entry shares to the shareholder's front doorstep.
that requires little overhead or mechanization. In either case, Thus, CSAs vary significantly in terms of both origins
the farmer must seek out shareholders. Other times, a CSA and ultimate form. Involvement of shareholders in the work
may be initiated by a consumer or a group of consumers of the farm, logistics of produce delivery, and even a will-
who want to create a CSA. This initial group may serve as ingness to tailor share size and composition to individual
the "core group." This "core group" later serves as a decision needs, are all aspects of CSA organization that together give
making body and assumes many responsibilities for organiz- each CSA a distinctive character. How these aspects of varia-
ing the work of the CSA, including recruiting members, bility ultimately affect CSA success, such as shareholder
scheduling on-farm work parties, organizing distributions, satisfaction, reduction of farmer workload, or the goal of fos-
setting budgets, managing accounts, and even determining tering a greater sense of connectedness to land is as yet
what will be grown and setting share prices. An active core understudied.
group helps ensure that the grower will know the needs of
members, and vice versa. Strong communication between Maintaining Membership: A Challenge to CSA Viability
growers and members may be vital to the successful oper- Obtaining organic produce through a CSA is a money-
ation of the CSA (Henderson 1998). saving proposition, compared to purchasing organic pro-
Some CSAs offer a one-size-fits-all share, while others duce at a store or even compared to purchasing conventional
may offer as many as five different options. Shares may be produce at the store (Cooley and Lass 1998). Yet for many
sold as large (full, whole, family) or small (half, partial, indi- shareholders, the money is a secondary consideration (Greer
vidual), basic or gourmet (differences in variety), and even 1999). Obviously, shareholders join CSAs because they want
bulk or "canning" shares (with large quantities of a particu- access to fresh organic produce. Because they can typically
lar item). Another variation is whether or not shares involve get that in other, sometimes more convenient ways, and be-
members' work. In some CSAs, shareholders may be offered cause saving money is not a prime incentive, other factors
the opportunity to work a given number of hours per week, are also important in this rather significant decision to pay in
month, or season in exchange for a partial or full reduction advance for goods promised.

Culture & Agriculture 16 Vol. 24, No. I Spring 2002


Social, political, and environmental concerns are impor- frustration at trying to incorporate those same foods into
tant in motivating people to join a CSA. Kane's interviews their diets. Such high rates of turnover and apparent dissat-
with Southeastern CSA shareholders show that "desire for isfaction signal that, while CSAs may hold great promise,
organic produce" is the top reason shareholders joined a they also must confront some serious challenges to their via-
CSA, followed by "freshness." After that, the desire for "lo- bility. One apparent reason for turnover seems to revolve
cally grown produce/' to "support a local farmer," "concern around eating patterns. This issue provides the focus for the
for the environment," and to "support a small farmer," are present study.
all listed as important reasons for joining a CSA (Kane 1997).
Likewise, the North Carolina shareholders studied by Research Design
Andreatta (2000) joined their CSA for organic, locally grown,
fresh produce, and to support a local farmer. Laird (1998) In order to examine issues related to CSA experiences
found a similar pattern in that the most popular reason for and diet, I undertook a study of a newly formed CSA in
joining was to obtain fresh organic food. Other reasons, such Central Ohio. The opportunity to work with a new CSA
as to support local agriculture, and to know who grows their meant the easy identification of a group of novice CSA mem-
food, were cited much less frequently. Kolodinsky and Pelch bers, a group most likely to be confronting the challenges of
(1997) found that neither purchasing organic food nor CSA shareholding. The data gathering that took place in
social/political awareness alone <:ould predict which Ver- 1999 was initiated as a pilot project for a longer-term, multi-
mont consumers would join CSAs. They found, instead, that faceted study of CSAs—both shareholders and growers.
the individual who is both an organic shopper and holds par- Green Valley Farm (not its real name) began in 1999 on
ticular social/political views is most likely to become a CSA 3lA acres of organic gardens. The farmer decided to sell a
member. portion of the produce to CSA members, while another por-
Thus, many people join CSAs primarily because CSAs tion of it was sold at a roadside stand. Though they had the
provide access to fresh, often organic, produce. However, same name, two CSAs actually formed around the farm, re-
people also join CSAs because they are concerned about the flecting two different networks the grower used to recruit
environment in general, because they have made the link members. One, affiliated with a local college, had 21 mem-
between conventional food production and environmental bers. Faculty members assisted in recruiting via e-mail. The
degradation, because of a concern with the loss of small other, associated with a local health food store, recruited 16
farms and farmland, and because they want to counteract members. Brochures were passed out at the health food store
trends towards globalization with a move towards localiza- and the owners helped in recruitment. Local newspaper cov-
tion. Less clear is how these different motivations may erage also led to several memberships in this CSA.
ultimately impact the functioning of a CSA and the share- Because the college CSA actually crystallized a few
holders experience of membership in a CSA. weeks later than the health food store CSA, its shares were
Despite the gastronomic and ideological promises of sold at a slightly discounted rate, $180 for the season, com-
CSA, membership turnover is high, running about 50 per- pared to $200 for the season for the initial CSA. The college
cent a year, and typically even higher in the early years of a CSA took delivery on Thursday afternoons in a parking lot
CSA (DeLind and Fackler 1999; Greer 1999). High turnover on campus and the health food store CSA had its delivery at
uses economic, labor, and monetary resources of a CSA the store on Wednesdays. Both groups received essentially
which would more productively be applied to growing food the same produce. Most members (three-fourths) purchased
(Laird 1998). Clearly, the economic incentive of saving sub- a full share and the remainder split a share with someone
stantial sums of money is not sufficient to keep CSA share- else. About once a month a recipe list was included with
holders. For most (64 percent) shareholders surveyed in six deliveries.
southeastern U.S. CSAs in 1996, the value they perceived of The season ran from early June to mid-October- Share-
their CSA experience decreased after their initial season as holders were told to expect between 3 and 5 kilograms of
a CSA member (Kane 1997). Ironically, the very thing that vegetables each week for 18 to 20 weeks. Each week's share
most excited them in the Spring was the same thing that contained between five and eight different items, depending
drove their discontent in the Fall. In the Spring, new share- on what the garden was producing. For example, a shipment
holders expressed excited anticipation at the chance to try from June could include mixed lettuce and baby greens,
new kinds of vegetables and increase their overall vegetable spinach or Chinese cabbage, snow peas or shell peas, rad-
consumption. Yet by Fall this excitement had turned to ishes or scallions, broccoli or rapini, and new potatoes. A

Culture & Agriculture 17 Vol. 24, No. \ Spring 2002


mid-season share would contain tomatoes (slicing and purchased produce had they not joined the CSA. As in the
cherry), sweet peppers, green beans, summer squash, cab- Spring, they were provided a list of possible reasons for
bage, potatoes, cucumbers, chard, sweet corn, basil, or pars- participating in a CSA and asked to rate the importance of
ley. The end of the season saw such items included as pars- each. They were also asked to rate whether or not their ex-
nips and carrots, escarole or romaine lettuce, red onions or perience of being a CSA member exceeded, met, or fell short
leeks, butternut squash, root vegetables like rutabaga, tur- of their expectations. They were provided space to indicate
nip, or beets, and brussel sprouts, kale, or broccoli. which items they would like more of and those they would
In collaboration with the farmer, the author (who is not like less of, and queried about why some food did not get
a member of either CSA) developed a survey to be sent to all eaten and what they did with any excess. They were pro-
members of the two CSAs. Earlier surveys by Kane (1997) in vided a specific list of aspects of the CSA experience (i.e.,
the Southeast were used as a model. The survey instrument "quantity of produce," "quality of produce," "convenience
included structured and open-ended questions. All CSA of distribution site") and asked to rate their level of satis-
shareholders were sent mail surveys at the start of the faction with each. Again, they were asked to indicate their
growing season and again after their CSA season had been willingness to pay more—or less—for a share than they had.
completed. Respondents were also asked to indicate the likelihood of
In the Spring, respondents were queried for information rejoining Green Valley CSA or joining another CSA. Finally,
on how they first heard about their CSA, if they had previ- demographic information was again collected.
ously been a CSA shareholder (if so, where, when, and why In both Spring and Fall, 37 surveys were mailed to CSA
they terminated their membership), and whether or not they members and, following Dillman's (1978) total design
knew others who had been part of a CSA. In the Spring, they method, a postcard reminder was sent one week later and
were asked about their expectations of the produce they replacement surveys were sent out three weeks after the
would receive (varieties, quality) and what proportion of reminder. In the Spring, 23 of 37 shareholders (62 percent)
their produce needs their share or partial share would meet. returned their surveys and 24 of 37 (65 percent) did so in the
They were provided a list of possible reasons for joining a Fall. While the response rate was thus quite high, the overall
CSA and asked to rate each one on a 1-5 scale. They were number of respondents is nonetheless modest. Consequently,
further asked to rate a variety of sources of information used the findings presented below are offered as tentative and
in forming their expectations. They were then asked to indi- suggestive of future studies.
cate their willingness to pay more for their share, given their
stated expectations. In the Spring, informants were also Findings
asked to recall dinners for the previous week, and to indicate
the number of days they ate at home, the dishes they ate, Demographics
and the main ingredients in each of them. Finally, respon- The typical shareholder is female, 50 years old, and lives
dents were asked to provide basic demographic information in a suburban setting with one other adult and one child
(sex, household composition, community type, education, (aged 13) living in the home. The modal annual income
and income) as well as additional information on habits such among respondents is between $25,000 and $49,000, and the
as gardening, composting, recycling, etc. modal education is a graduate or professional degree (Table
In the Fall, after the conclusion of the CSA season, share- 1). Thus, like CSA members elsewhere (Cone and
holders were again asked to complete a questionnaire, in Kakaliouras 1995; Kane 1997), the Green Valley shareholders
which much of the same information was collected again, as a group are relatively well-educated and financially
retrospectively. Thus, instead of asking respondents to de- comfortable.
scribe the variety and quality of produce they expected to
receive, they were asked to describe the kinds and quality of Spring: Reasons for Joining and Expectations
fruits and vegetables that they did receive. They were asked None of the Green Valley CSA shareholders had been a
about changes in food-related behaviors as a result of being member of another CSA before joining Green Valley. Many
a CSA member (e.g., if they ate more produce or not and if heard about the CSA through a friend (26 percent) or the
they ate a greater variety or not). They were provided the media (17 percent)—the local newspaper had run an article
opportunity to elaborate in a more open-ended manner. Re- about it. The largest proportion heard about the CSA via an
spondents were asked to indicate if they had changed the email circulating around the local college campus. Few knew
amount of time preparing food, and where they would have other people who have been members of a CSA or had even

Culture &• Agriculture 18 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


that it might be a bit dirty or have insect scars. Others, how-
Table 1 ever, also expressed the hope that it be clean and free from
Demographic Characteristics of Survey Respondents
bugs. The majority (61 percent of respondents) expected to
Fall Spring have all or most of their produce needs met by their share
Community (or partial share). Such enthusiasm and high expectations led
Urban 3 1
Suburban 14.5 16
many shareholders in the Spring to declare that they would
Rural 4.5 6 have paid even more for a share. About half the respondents
said they would have been willing to pay 10 percent or 20
Income percent more for their produce share in Green Valley Farm.
< $25,000 1 1
25-49,000 8 9
50-74,000 4 4 Fall: Expectations Not Met
75-99,000 3 1 By Fall, few still felt willing to pay more, based on their
100-124,000 2 2
> $125,000 1 1 experience. Follow up with shareholders showed that, while
some were pleased with their experience, a sizable number
Education had been disappointed. Thirteen of 24 respondents (54 per-
H.S. or less 2 2
Some college or tech 6 7 cent) reported that the experience fell short of their expecta-
Undergrad degree 6 4 tions (Table 3), while 8 percent and 13 percent indicated that
Grad/Prof degree 10 10 their expectations were matched or exceeded, respectively
Household Composition
(the remaining respondents claimed they had no expecta-
Number of women/men responding 19/5 18/4 tions). Not surprisingly then, a large proportion (two-thirds;
Avg. age of respondent 50.5 48.5 16 of 24) of shareholders said it was unlikely that they would
Range 36-66 35-66
Avg. number of children in home 0.7 0.7
rejoin their CSA the following year. Indeed, the following
Range 0-3 0-3 year Green Valley CSA had only eight shareholders, five at
Avg. age of all children 13.1 13 the health food store and three at the college. Of these, less
than half were repeat members.
An unexpected source of dissatisfaction arose as CSA
been familiar with the concept before being introduced to it members compared the produce they received to what was
in the context of Green Valley CSA. Their reasons for joining available at Green Valley's roadside stand. Several men-
are diverse, but among those given as most important were tioned the impression that shareholders received inferior
the desire for produce which was fresh, in-season, and or- produce, while the better (bigger, cleaner) vegetables were
ganic (Table 2). Respondents also indicated that health rea- marketed at the stand. One woman who picked up her share
sons and issues of trust (that is, knowing where and how at the farm stand because of having to miss the CSA delivery
their food is grown) were important factors motivating their felt, after seeing the produce for sale at the stand, that CSA
decision to join a CSA. In other words, the most prominent members received inferior vegetables that were "more scar-
reasons for deciding to join the CSA were all related to red and less attractive." Her explanation was that "they were
qualities of the food they would receive. In contrast, environ- giving the people that prepaid the worst of the lot, while the
mental and social reasons seem to be less important to share- public selecting their own for purchase received the better
holders as a group. Shareholders were asked about the im- quality produce." Another shareholder, who had simply
portance of a general concern for the environment, reducing heard by word of mouth of the large-sized vegetables for
packaging, concern for the land, supporting a small farmer, sale at the stand, responded, "I felt that we helped float the
creating a sense of community, and having a recreational project with our money up front. That should have made a
activity in the decision to join. All of these factors were re- difference in what we got each week."
garded as substantially less important than those related to The central reason shareholders gave for not rejoining
individual diet. their CSA centered around dealing with the food they re-
In describing the quality of the produce they expected to ceived, and in particular, coping with the influx of foods
receive, they used words such as "highest quality," "supe- which they may not like, or may receive in quantities that do
rior," "fresh," "flavorful," and "top." At the same time, at not match their eating patterns. Shareholders mentioned that
least some indicated they understood that the produce might food went to waste, that they received too much of items
look different from the typical fare in the grocery store, or they or their families did not like, and that they wanted to

Culture & Agriculture 19 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


Table 2
Importance of Various Reasons for Joining the CSA

Not Important Very Important Average


1 2 3 4 5
Desire for:
Fresh produce 0% 0% 0% 4% 96% 5.0
Locally grown produce 4% 0% 30% 26% 39% 4.0
Organic produce 0% 13% 9% 26% 52% 4.2
A sense of community 9% 9% 35% 30% 17% 3.4
A recreational activity 39% 9% 35% 13% 4% 2.3

Desire to:
Reduce packaging 17% 13% 30% 17% 22% 3.1
Educate self 17% 4% 39% 22% 17% 3.2
Support a small farmer 13% 0% 17% 43% 26% 3.7
Educate family 26% 9% 30% 22% 13% 2.9
Support a local farmer 13% 0% 13% 43% 30% 3.8
Eat produce in-season 0% 0% 9% 22% 70% 4.6
Try new foods 0% 9% 30% 22% 39% 3.9

Other factors:
Convenience 9% 9% 30% 35% 17% 3.4
Opportunity to work on a farm 45% 27% 14% 14% 0% 2.0
Concern for the land 4% 9% 39% 22% 26% 3.6
Health/Dietary reasons 0% 0% 14% 27% 59% 4.5
Knowing where/how food is grown 0% 0% 22% 22% 57% 4.3
General concern for environment 4% 9% 22% 35% 30% 3.8

exercise more choice about what foods they received. response to the 1973 meat shortage was to buy up large
Ninety-two percent reported that they had received food at amounts of meat when available, including unfamiliar cuts.
some point that they had not consumed. Over half the time, The result was greater meat waste during this crisis, as con-
the reason the food was not eaten was that there was simply sumers were apparently unable to store such large quantities
too much, or too much of items not liked (Table 4). Only and unfamiliar with satisfactory ways to prepare new cuts
about one-third of respondents mentioned not eating items (Rathje and Murphy 1992:60-61). Like the Garbage Project
because they were of poor quality. Several related that some subjects who wasted food in a fit of crisis-buying, respon-
food went uneaten because they were unfamiliar with the dents in this study often wasted food due to issues of
food item and did not know how to prepare it. Of this quantity or familiarity.
unused food, some of it ended up in the compost heap (50 Thus, although in the Spring these rookie CSA members
percent of respondents did this at least once), more fre- expressed high hopes and eager anticipation of the experi-
quently it was thrown away (59 percent), but most often un- ence they were about to embark upon, by the Fall many had
wanted or unused food was given to someone else (82 per- become disillusioned. This is not, I believe, due to some par-
cent of respondents availed themselves of this strategy). In ticular shortcoming of Green Valley CSA. The two-thirds
Tucson households studied by the Garbage Project, one who say they will not join again is typical of CSA retention
rates, especially in the first few years. Shareholders' com-
Table 3 ments make it clear that much of the dissatisfaction stems
Fall—Degree to Which Expectations of Shareholders from issues related to food processing and preparation, and
Were Met meal planning, or what Laird (1998) more generally char-
Number of acterizes as "CSA inconvenience."
Statement Respondents Agreeing Percent

Had no expectations 6 25 Diet and Meal Preparation


Fell short of expectations 13 54 In the Spring survey, respondents were asked to recount
Matched expectations 2 8
Exceeded expectations 3 13 the prior seven dinner meals eaten at home. This was done
as a way of trying to understand their dietary patterns prior

Culture & Agriculture 20 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


to find new ways to prepare foods and to try more
Table 4 vegetables."
Reasons Given for Why Some Food Was Not Eaten
Some shareholders viewed themselves as already being
Proportion of heavy consumers of fresh vegetables and adventurous eat-
Reason Given Respondents ers. In the Fall, they felt that their CSA membership experi-
There was too much of it 50%
ence did not really alter the quantity or variety of vegetables
There were food items my household doesn't like 55% they ate, nor did it affect the amount of time spent in food
The quality was poor 32% preparation. Shareholders who identified themselves as veg-
It spoiled before I could eat it 50% etarians seemed to be the most satisfied with their CSA ex-
Other 18%
perience. There is a strong correlation (r = 0.50; p < 0.05) be-
Note: More than one response possible. tween being a vegetarian and likelihood of rejoining the
Green Valley CSA the following year. The vegetarians are
the CSA members most willing and able to incorporate the
to being influenced by the arrival of CSA produce in their variety produced into their meals.
homes. I focused on dinner as a way of limiting the amount Other shareholders expressed the strong sense that, as
of recall they were asked to do, and on the assumption that a result of joining a CSA, they had altered their eating pat-
dinner was the meal of the day most likely to show changes terns because they ate more and a greater variety of produce.
as a result of CSA membership. From the information pro- They also spent more time preparing food as a result of
vided, a main dish and side dish(es) were identified, where joining a CSA. In general, these shareholders wanted to re-
appropriate. Thus, for the informant who indicated that the ceive more of the "basic" produce items (green beans, corn,
"dishes eaten for dinner" on a giver, day were "chicken bell peppers, and potatoes) and less leafy greens and other
paprikash, rice, tossed salad, carrots," the first was coded as "exotics." One respondent put it more generally by stating
the main dish and the others were considered side dishes. her desire for the "opportunity to have more control over the
The information provided on the main ingredients used in food I got each week."
all dishes was also coded and tallied.
Respondents reported that, on average, they ate five Shareholder Satisfaction and Commitment
dinner meals at home during a week. For those meals con-
sumed at home the previous week they listed the dishes pre- It would seem that despite the culinary and ideological
pared and the main ingredients used. In general, most re- appeal of the CSA concept, many shareholders are not pre-
spondents indicated an eating pattern that included a main pared to deal with the unfamiliar foods, or familiar foods in
dish of meat, poultry, or fish. Of the 83 main dishes described unpredicted (and from their perspective, uncontrollable)
by respondents, 57 were based on meat (n=28), poultry (n=21), quantities. As in CSAs studied elsewhere (Kane 1997), the
or fish (n=8). Main dish pastas (n=10) or salads (n=9), com- discomfort of incorporating new foods and preparations im-
prised much of the remainder. Hamburgers, bratwurst, and pacts membership retention. When the likelihood of joining
steak were the most frequent main dishes, as were salmon the Green Valley CSA in the future is correlated with mea-
and chicken stir-fry. Vegetables were included in almost all sures of various aspects of satisfaction with the CSA experi-
of the meals as side dishes and salads. Potatoes were most ence, the strongest correlation is found to be with satisfaction
commonly used (13 times), while onions, spinach, carrots, regarding variety. That is, shareholders who expressed satis-
"greens," corn, and lettuce were each mentioned as being faction regarding the variety of produce they received were
eaten more than five times during the previous week. Every those most likely to anticipate rejoining Green Valley CSA
other vegetable was utilized five or fewer times among the again the following year (Table 5). Viewed another way,
aggregate 83 meals. In short, the kind of items supplied by those most dissatisfied with variety were most likely to drop
the CSA do not appear to be used as mainstays of the diet of out of the CSA. The qualitative comments make clear that
most CSA member households. This raises the possibility points of dissatisfaction concerning variety center on having
that the diverse array of vegetables provided by the CSA too much of unfamiliar, "exotic" items and too little of the
may have been incorporated into many households' diets staple items. One shareholder, who politely declined to join
only with great difficulty, if at all. One shareholder, who again, stated she "felt there was too much waste of foods
indicated that she had spent more time preparing food as a [the] family would not eat." Satisfaction with taste and fresh-
result of participating in the CSA, affirmed that it "forced me ness were much less strongly correlated, because share-

Culture & Agriculture 21 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


regard to the likelihood of joining again. Ideological com-
Table 5 mitment to the environmental and social issues embodied by
Significant Correlations with the Likelihood of Joining
Again the Next Year
CSA is significant, in addition to dietary issues. Those most
likely to rejoin their CSA also expressed that they wanted to
N Correlation
be part of a CSA not just (1) for health/dietary reasons, but
Satisfaction with various aspects also to (2) support a local farmer, (3) reduce packaging, (4)
of the experience: know where and how their food is grown, and (5) because of
Quality (taste) of produce 24 .412 *
Variety/mix of produce 24 .699 "
their general concern for the environment. Each of these
Convenience of distribution day/time 24 .495 * correlations is significant (Table 5). In this study, those who
voice environmental and social concerns related to the food
Reasons for wanting to participate
in a CSA farm:
system are those most likely to remain committed to CSA
Desire to ... membership. Similarly, Cone and Myhre (2000) found a
Reduce packaging 24 .447 * strong correlation between members who articulated an un-
Support a local farmer 23 .430 * derstanding of the civic and spiritual implications of CSAs
Other
Health/Dietary reasons 24 .405 * and active participation in the farm. Andreatta studied a
Knowing where/how my food is grown 24 .459 * North Carolina CSA with very high membership retention
General concern for the environment 24 .501 * and observes that those consumers "are mostly committing
* Significant at the 0.01 level (2-tailed) themselves to a grower, and not just to the food in a bag"
** Significant at the 0.05 level (2-tailed) (2000:47).
These statistical abstractions illustrate the characteriza-
tion of CSAs as having a dual personality (Cone and
holders more consistently expressed relatively high satis- Kakaliouras 1995; DeLind and Ferguson 1999). On the one
faction with these factors. hand, they are seen optimistically as "a concrete example of
In the journey between field and table, the promise of economic exchanges conditioned by pleasure, friendship,
CSA loses its appeal. Unlike a CSA shareholder quoted by aesthetics, affection, loyalty, justice, and reciprocity in addi-
DeLind (1999) who stated "I used to think about what I tion to the factors of cost (not price) and quality" (Kloppen-
wanted to eat and then go to the store and buy it. Now, I burg, Hendrickson, and Stevenson 1996:115-116). In this
open my refrigerator and say 'What can I make with an view, CSAs are a political and philosophical statement about
onion, a pepper, two summer squash, and a half pound of the relationships that should inhere between producers and
chard? It's a wonderful challenge,'" many of the Green Val- consumers, between people and the land, in short, the rela-
ley CSA members seem unable, or unwilling, to adopt new tionships that form a community of people, embedded in
patterns and behaviors that allow them to eat with the rhy- place. On the other hand, CSAs are a marketing arrange-
thms of the farm. Shareholder satisfaction seems in large ment. Esteva (1994:12) voices skepticism about the promises
measure to be related to willingness to incorporate the foods made by CSAs, raising the question of whether CSAs might
provided by the CSA into meals, to use the food bounty be just another vehicle by which "'smart' consumers are
distributed by the CSA to drive menu planning. This stands finding another source of healthy, fresh, organic food; [and]
in contrast to more typical patterns, which include purchas- 'smart' producers are finding an alternative market, to get
ing foods according to planned meals, relying on prepared stability in their income and better conditions."
foods, or simply utilizing a smaller set of staple foods to cre- This dual nature of CSAs, in turn, establishes an inher-
ate familiar meals. ent tension. For some consumers, CSAs represent an act of
On the other hand, there is an additional element that rebellion, an option for withdrawing from the conventional
appears to be important to shareholder satisfaction. The marketplace and for creating a different kind of relationship
Spring survey showed that environmental and social issues between themselves and their food, the people who grow it,
did not factor prominently into most shareholders reasons and the land from which it comes. In the language of Klop-
for i?ritially joining the Green Valley CSA (although there penburg, Hendrickson, and Stevenson (1996:117), CSAs in
were some members who reported that such concerns had this context represent a "movement of self-protection," an
factored into their decision to join). In the Fall, I asked re- alternative that exists alongside the dominant system, or
spondents again to indicate the importance of various rea- "secession," "a strategic preference for withdrawing from
sons for wanting to join a CSA, and examined this with and/or creating alternatives to the dominant system." Such

Culture & Agriculture 22 Vol. 24, No. 1 Spring 2002


movements "maintain or create alternatives that will eventu- burdened with the additional responsibility of educating
ally bring substantive change" (Kloppenburg, Hendrickson, consumers.
and Stevenson 1996:117). CSAs may invite consumers to Even if so, educating shareholders in how to deal with
challenge the assumption that food should be convenient, the produce they receive is at best a partial solution to the
and in doing so encourage members to directly confront the problem of turnover. The results presented here show that
premises of the global grocery and dominant consumer cul- people who join a CSA simply because they want fresh or-
ture from which they have previously obtained their food. ganic vegetables are not likely to remain members for long.
There is reason for legitimate concern, however. While Indeed, there are other—easier—ways to obtain such pro-
this invitation to critical examination is an attractive poten- duce. These consumers confront directly the contrast noted
tial of CSAs, such potential may be undermined by pressure by Gussow (1999:17) between the packaged convenience of
on growers or core groups to configure CSAs to more closely the global food system and the time and skills demanded by
fit the prevailing consumer culture. Thus, care is taken to the sustainable food system. Gussow (1999:17) suggests that
make available only unblemished produce, hiding that the latter will require consumers "to change how they plan,
which is scarred or has worm holes. Deliveries are made to how they shop, how they prepare food. Many are unwilling
door steps, in order to avoid inconveniencing shareholders or unable to make this change."
with the burden of a pick-up. If, in the interest of retaining Shareholders who are most likely to stay committed to
members, the CSA must reconfigure itself to more neatly the CSA are those who joined not just to obtain a certain
match the expectations derived from the prevailing con- kind of produce, but also because of social and environ-
sumer culture, its power as a change agent is diluted. This is mental concerns. Like other social movements, CSAs illus-
the territory DeLind and Fackler (1999:5) recognize as "both trate that successful recruitment and retention may turn on
attractive and treacherous, causing considerable internal ten- key issues related to frame alignment (Snow et al. 1986). That
sion not only between farmers and share members, but also is, identifying and communicating the interests common
within individual farmers themselves." Here CSAs must ne- both to the movement (in this case, CSAs) and the individ-
gotiate whether they are "a vehicle for entrepreneurial activ- ual. CSAs seeking new members should target those groups
ity" or "a venue for the creation of common wealth" (DeLind and individuals who show concern about, and commitment
and Fackler 1999:5). An individual may enter a CSA as an act to, social and environmental issues. Recruiting new mem-
of resistance or as a savvy consumer. When convenience bers from these groups, by showing how those concerns are
dominates, resistance gives way to consumerism. reflected and can be acted on in the context of the food
system, will increase the likelihood of finding CSA share-
Conclusion holders who will endure.
Consumers have tremendous potential for reforming the
I have focused here on whether or not shareholders in a food system, and that potential is premised on consumers
CSA—as food preparers and food consumers—are willing to making the connection between the food they eat and the
adjust to the special characteristics of eating within a CSA system that supplies their food. CSAs represent an oppor-
regime. My results suggest that for many consumers (prob- tunity to help people make the link between the food they
ably that 50 percent which turnover each year, as a general eat and the environment and community around them. In
pattern) CSA membership is a challenge, one in which high doing so, CSAs may realize their promise for creating the
expectations quickly turn to disappointment. Many CSAs kind of food system, a local food system, that can help re-
have recognized this problem, and have stepped up with dress the environmental and social problems associated with
solutions to it. My findings suggest that such assistance our current globalized food system.
could help alleviate some of the root causes of low member
retention. Strategies include providing information sheets to Acknowledgments
identify new items in the weekly shares, supplying recipes The author extends thanks to Sarah Bauer and Trish Mumme
for their use, and more choice about the composition of for help and collaboration in collecting the data for this study.
weekly shares, both in terms of selecting particular items Thanks also go to Abram Kaplan, Katrina Korfmacher, and anon-
and determining for themselves quantities. As yet, there has ymous reviewers who all offered insightful and valuable com-
ments on earlier versions of this paper.
been no study determining if these strategies improve share-
holder satisfaction and retention rates. And we must ask,
too, if the small farmer, typical of CSA growers, is fairly

Culture & Agriculture 23 Vol. 24, No. \ Spring 2002


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