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0030 0041 PDF
0030 0041 PDF
Classification of Scents
a) The top notes are those that are detected and fade first
providing freshness to the blend. They are responsible for the
customer's first impression, and hence, in a way, the selling note
Keywords of a perfume. They are light scents, lasting 5-10 minutes, and
Essential oils, fragrances, es-
extracted from plant material such as cardamom seed, basil,
sences, perfumes .
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GENERAL I ARTICLE
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The majority of Essential oils of citrus plants may simply be expressed (squeezed)
essential oils are from the peels. The majority of essential oils are obtained by
obtained by steam steam distillation or hydro-distillation. Three types of hydro-
distillation or hydro- distillation are employed in the essential oil industry:
distillation.
• Water distillation,
• Water and steam distillation and
• Direct steam distillation.
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Essence Oils
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Numerous extracts, concretes or absolutes which would lose their natural quality by
each one having a hot water or steam distillation process.
distinctive character,
Numerous extracts, each one having a distinctive character, are
are used in
used in combination to formulate a fragrance. Some overlap in
combination to
tones or notes in two or more of these scent extracts is possible.
formulate a
For example, rosewood and ylang ylang have middle to base
fragrance.
character and clary sage and fennel have top to middle character.
Many essential oils are much too strong and often expensive to
use without dilution. To moderate such attributes carrier oils
are used to dilute and carry the fragrance for use as a perfume.
Box 1. Carrier oils come from nuts and seeds and are usually pressed
1. Ambergris
out of commercially produced crops. The best carrier oils are
2. Bitter Almond stable to oxidation and have little or no fragrance of their own,
3. Camphoraceous and they include oils from sweet almond, apricot, peach kernel,
4. Floral sesame seed, soybean, sunflower, avocado, and jojoba. Some of
Jasmine these oils can be used as the only carrier while others are only
Lily of the valley safe for skin use at 10-25% of the total amount. Alcohol is added
(Muguet) to perfumes to carry the fragrance by evaporation as well as
Rose
dilute the ingredients. Perfumes contain 25% fragrance and
5. Fruit
about 75% alcohol and other diluents (carrier oils) by volume
Esters
Miscellaneous
while cologne is composed of more than 90% diluent.
6. Musk
Fixatives
Macrocyclic musks
Nitro musk Fixatives are scented components that act to hold the fragrance
Non-nitro aromatic
together and regulate rate of evaporation for the fragrant compo-
benzenoids
nents. The fixatives often provide a base note and character to
Different families
the mixture. One of the most important steps in the manufacture
of musks
7. Wood
of a fine perfume is the addition of a fixative which enables the
Cedarwood essential oils to retain their fragrance for a longer period of time.
Patchouli Fragrances remain fresh if they are protected from light, heat
Sandalwood and oxygen for about three years from the date of manufacture.
They are categorized based on the source into seven different
classes (see Box 1).
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34 v V VVV v RESONANCE I April 2004
GENERAL I ARTICLE
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~o
OCH 3 OCH3 OH CH2CH=CH2
Methyl chavicol Anethole Eugenol Safrole
(X)CHO
Geraniol Ambergris Linalool
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Perfume Blending
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chemical constituents. The retention time (RT) in the gas chroma- The adulteration of
togram and the optical rotation (OR) of a compound can be made natural isolates in
to match by adding adulterants with similar values for RT and fact covers a wide
OR. It is in fact very difficult to differentiate the pure oil and the range of actions,
impure oil by merely these techniques. GC-MS is a better diagnos- such as:
tic tool as the mass fragmentation pattern will be different for standardizing,
different compounds even when they have the same RT and OR. reinforcement,
liquidizing,
Some Aspects of the Adulteration of Natural Isolates
reconstitution,
Adulteration generally means the act oflowering the standard or commercializing.
character of a product by the addition of one or inore inferior
ingredients. Because there is a lot of confusion about the adul-
teration of natural isolates, it seems worthwhile to discuss 'how'
and 'why' this is performed.
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Suggested Reading
Elsevier, Amsterdam. (Editions Roche, Basel), 1993. Facility for Ecological and
[6] B M Lawrence, Essential Oils 1976 -1994, Allured Publishing Corporation, .l'.nalytical Testing(FEAT)
362 South Schmale Rd., Carol Stream, IL 60188-2787, USA. Indian Institute of Technology
[7] E S Maurer,Perfumes and theirproduction, United Trade Press Ltd, London, Kanpur 208012, India .
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