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GREG WAGMAN
ICONS of GETTYSBURG
Table of Contents
ALTAR of FREEDOM
© 2014 by Greg Wagman
All Rights Reserved
Construction Tips: The bank-style barn requires some intricate folding and may require a bit of
trial-and-error until you get the results you want. After assembling the main walls, cut the roof to
fit and remember to add a small notch to recess the middle section. After the main barn is
complete, glue the single-story bump-out to the side. This is rated as "difficult" because fitting
the roof can be a bit tricky. Refer to the photo on the Table of Contents to see how it should look
when complete.
Lutheran Theological
Seminary
Perhaps the most famous landmark at
Gettysburg, this red brick seminary gave name to
"Seminary Ridge," which Union troops attempted
to hold on July 1. Robert E. Lee eventually
made his headquarters on the seminary grounds,
directing the next two days of battle.
Construction Tips: The most challenging part of assembling the seminary is cutting out the
main building. The intricate cutting around the roof lines requires a sharp hobby knife. Once
you've properly cut out the building, it's a simple rectangle to assemble. The oddly-shaped brick
sections on the top are meant to be folded down and glued so that your upper chimney sections
have double-sided brick texture. Two identical roof sections are provided--you'll only need one
of them, but we gave you an extra one for trial-and-error sizing. The roof for this building should
be trimmed to fit snugly INSIDE the building (so there will be no roof overhang). Refer to the
picture of the assembled paper model on the Table of Content to see how this looks.
Optional Upgrades: No seminary would be complete without a copula! Mine is made from a
round piece of balsa rod, painted white and green. You could also add four small brick chimneys
to the roof using balsa wood--I did not add these to my own model.
Evergreen Cemetery
Gatehouse
Two brick towers connected by an archway form
the iconic gatehouse to the Evergreen Cemetery.
This monument, built in 1855, stood atop
Cemetery Hill, which saw fierce fighting during
the first two days of battle. The gatehouse was
damaged, but later repaired and still stands today.
Construction Tips: The two brick towers are simple to fold and assemble. The tower flat roof is
easier to glue down if you remember to cut small tabs to hold glue. The difficult part of this
paper model is the archway--two of them are included, in case you need to experiment through
trial-and-error. For a simple 2D approach, just fold the archway in half. But for those who want
the depth of a 3D archway, try bracing the insides with a thin piece of balsa. An extra filler strip
is included to cover your balsa (or just paint the wood red).
Leister House
This modest homestead was owned by a widow,
Lydia Leister, and was selected by General
Meade as the Federal headquarters. It's location
on the Taneytown Road at Cemetery Ridge
made it an ideal command post. The white-
washed, wooden house was close enough to the
front line to suffer rebel artillery fire in the lead
up to Pickett's Charge.
Construction Tips: This is a very small structure at 3mm scale, so you'll need to cut carefully
and find someone with small fingers to handle the folding. The front porch bump out is
especially intricate. Refer to the picture of the assembled model on the Table of Contents page.
Rose Farmhouse
The Rose Farm was positioned near three major
battlefield landmarks--the Wheatfield, the Peach
Orchard, and Devil's Den. The beautiful stone
farmhouse is fully restored and can be seen today,
much as it appeared in 1863. Many Confederate
soldiers were buried on the Rose Farm in the
aftermath of the battle.
Construction Tips: The main farmhouse is easy to assemble, and the rear addition should be
glued flush along the back of the left side. There are two roof sections--one for the main house,
and a smaller roof for the rear addition. Trim them to fit and glue in place.
Optional Upgrades: A third half-roof is included for those who want to model the front porch.
Posts for the porch can be made with thin pieces of balsa, painted white. Use a scrap piece of
65-lb paper to create the porch floor. If you refer to the photo in the Table of Contents, you'll
note that I added a porch railing using a N-scale model train ladder (made by Plastistruct),
which I cut in half. Admittedly, this is a pretty excessive and purely optional upgrade for the most
obsessive paper-building fanatics. It does, however, look incredible. This is my favorite model.
Trostle Barn
The Gettysburg battlefield is littered with
famous barns, but the Trostle farm remains the
most iconic. It was here that Union Major
General Dan Sickles lost his leg to a rebel
cannonball, and nearly lost the entire battle, as
well. Longstreet's furious attack on July 2
ravaged the Trostle farm, where visitors today
can still see artillery damage to the bank barn.
Construction Tips: The bank-style barn requires some intricate folding and may require a bit of
trial-and-error until you get the results you want. After assembling the main walls, cut the roof to
fit and remember to add a small notch to recess the middle section. After the main barn is
complete, glue the single-story bump-out with sloped roof to the side.
Optional Upgrades: This is a bank barn, which means one side is supposed to be higher than
the other. I added a ramp to offer the illusion of an embankment, then flocked it with grass.
Construction Tips: This set includes both the main bank barn and the carriage barn which can
be seen in the above photograph. The smaller barn is simple to assemble. The main barn
requires the same style of cutting and folding as the McPherson and Trostle bank barns (except
the Codori barn does not have a notched roof). A small arrow is provided to show you where to
fold the lower stone section.
Optional Upgrades: Three white spires can be added to the roof of the main barn by cutting
square toothpicks or balsa wood.
Split Rail Fencing
Split rail fences, with their ubiquitous zig-zag
pattern, littered every Civil War battlefield.
Farmers across the American frontier used
this style of fencing to enclose fields and
mark property boundaries. The inter-locking
zig-zag pattern could be secured without nails,
was easy to repair, and quick to dissemble.
Construction Tips: Cut out the fence sections and carefully fold them in half, length-wise.
Once the paper is creased and folded, apply a small amount of craft glue. Wipe away any
excess glue from the edges and place the fences under a flat, heavy object (a thick book?) to
dry overnight. When the fences are dry, cut off the additional white paper underneath with
scissors. These white tabs were only included to make folding and gluing such a thin strip of
paper easier during assembly. Finally, fold the fence backward and forward, like an accordion,
to achieve the desired zig-zag pattern.
Optional Upgrades: At the very end, I like to apply very small dabs of craft glue, using my
finger tip, along the bottom of the fence. This adds some reinforcement and keeps the folded
zig-zag pattern intact over time. Two different lengths of fencing are included below.
PRINTER-FRIENDLY SHEET [1 of 2]
All paper building templates are compressed onto these two, printer-friendly pages.
You can save paper and ink by only printing the last two pages of this PDF.
PRINTER-FRIENDLY SHEET [2 of 2]
All paper building templates are compressed onto these two, printer-friendly pages.
You can save paper and ink by only printing the last two pages of this PDF.
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