Scribd Logo
Upload

Welcome to Scribd!

  • Model Making - The Basics

    Uploaded by

    Ricardo Lopez Gutierrez
    14 views32 pages
    Extracto libro Model Making - The Basics

    Copyright

    © © All Rights Reserved

    Available Formats

    PDF or read online from Scribd

    Did you find this document useful?

    Is this content inappropriate?

    Report this Document
    Extracto libro Model Making - The Basics

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    14 views32 pages

    Model Making - The Basics

    Uploaded by

    Ricardo Lopez Gutierrez
    Extracto libro Model Making - The Basics

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    of 32
    126 MODEL-MAKING: THE BASICS EE Fig. 103 Translate measurements to foam Fig. 104 Add adequate allowance, board. 3 When mapping out each segment, it is vital to include model construction allowances. Without these, the mode! will lose space. Think twice if the model is 10mm smaller than intended, because this could actually mean a loss of 20cm on a 1:25 scale, or as much ‘as 100cm in scale of 1:100, Before adding any allowances, decide on the floor. Will the model be constructed on a larger base, or will it be the exact dimensions of the room itself? It may be beneficial to include space around the model, especially if the set is built in a studio space (like the interior of a house, or a set for a television game show, for ‘example), or set in a very specific terrain on location. ‘Once you've decided, begin drafting out the floor. you have opted for on a larger base, be sure to centre it, so that people are not fixated on the position ofthe model, rather ‘than the model ist. f the base isthe size of the room, add an allowance around the entire perimeter. The allowance should correspond to the thickness of the foam board (Gee Fig. 104), In this cae, it will be Smm. Alternatively, you can choose not to add any perimeter allowances, but remember, you will need to compensate by adding allowance to the walls. ‘Now begin to roughly map out the pieces needed for the model, There should be five pieces in all: four walls and one floor. Try to use each sheet economically by arranging ‘Paper templates. If you feel confident, draft the dimensions straight onto the foam board ‘with a mechanical pencil. Remember, the measurements and angles at this stage need tO ‘be correct. Double-check everything with a ruler or setsquare before making the first cut. pei waded ie ‘by laying the technical drawing on top of the foam board. been drafted and all a pees he bon lowances added, carefully cut out the base with Now map out the walls: Draft the walls that are same dimensions. In this task they wil be the opposite walls, Remember to add Smm allowances. Both horizontal sides of the wall ‘must have assembling allowances. Depending on how you have chosen to construct the 2. MODEL-MAKING: THE BASICS 127 eee model, ad allowances accordingly. If the model base is bigger than the room, do not add allowance to the height of the walls. the model's base has had allowances added, again, there is no need to add additional allowance. However, ifthe floor : Be has no allowance added, you need to add a Smm allowance tothe height of the walls. ‘Once a wall has been correctly drafted, repeat the process with the opposite wall. As this room is an even cube shape, the opposite wal will have identical dimensions. Cut ‘out both ofthese pieces and label them B and C, ‘Carry on and draft the two remaining walls, Ths time, only adding allowance to the height, as the base has had no allowance added. Note that allowance isnot added to the wall width, as each will be attached to the allowance given to walls B and C. Cut cut the wal pieces and label them D and E, Note: allowances cn be added to either set ‘of walls. Choose opposite walls to avoid confusion This method can be followed with any shaped environment, as the principles are the same. if there are any features, such as windows and a door, in this caso, draft and cut them ‘out before construction. Again, depending on your method of assembly if the walls have an allowance added to the height, remember to mark out the doors and windows from the allowance point, not from the bottom edge ofthe wall. Measuring these features from the bottom edge will lose valuable height, foreshortening the doorway and window placements. Arrange pieces as in Fig. 105, Now you are ready to construct. Make sure that you have flat headed pins to hand. Begin attaching pieces B and D. in the walls together along wal B's allowance (see Fig, 106), Avoid using lots of pins, when two or three will do. Repeat the same process with walls C and E. Fig. 105. Lay out the pieces in the way they will be attached fig, 106 Pin wall tothe floor with long flat pins. 128 MODELMAKING: THE BASICS lurr: Fig. 107 Attaching the walls op: Fig. 108 The finished white shell model. 13, Ifthe floor has no allowances added, attach the walls to the floor by pushing pins ‘along the wall base edges to secure them together (see Fig. 107). Ifthe floor does | have allowance added, push pins from the underside, so that they sit vertically upright, Then press each pair of walls down onto the pins so that the walls an floor are now attached, 14, To finish, pin the remaining walls together. Aiternatively you can glue tne base of the model together, but this depends on the purpose of the ‘model. Gluing the model together sets it in one state, and this may not be useful in discussions, ‘when you want to remove wals and look at the set from different camera angles as part of the design process. During the development stage, the model should be easily manipulable to accommodate ‘any pre-production changes. This method can be followed when making a dye-line or blue print ‘model, Instead of plotting the dimensions on the foam board, spray glue a copy of the plans directly conto the board, and then follow the steps for ‘adding allowance through to assembling, USEFUL MODEL-MAKING TECHNIQUES The following techniques offer simple ways 10 achieve certain shapes and structures; they 2t@ by no means the only way to do things. Through experimentation and practice you will ind your own methods JOINS Task 1 describes a fast, effective way to create @ ‘model with exposed foam joins. This is adequate for rough sketch models. However, when the purpose of the model demands a higher level of detail and quality, you should use hidden joins cowie is deal for f02m board, Begin with ‘Qoe wall will have the added allowance She thickness of the foam board). Make (hat tne measurements are exactly the same on both hg sure that itis perpendicular, Care tne Ta metal ruler and a sharp bladed scalpel, pec the tp layer of paper and cut across Gradually aly ite more pressure to Fra ua te foam, but not through the paper fig.109 Hidden join carefully cutting through foam middle Fig. 111 Apply water-based glue, such 2° PVA, to the groove. MODELMAKING: THE BASICS 129 Gently run the flat side of the scalpel blade ‘along the paper edge to release the foam column (Fig. 110). For the best quality join, try to get {as close 10 the paper as possible. Once the excess foam board is removed, spread a small amount of PVA or wood glue into the groove (Fig. 111). Then join the two walls, removing any excess glue, Carefully place the joined walls on an even surface till completely dry (Fig. 112). This technique produces attractive, clean and strong joins. Fig. 110 Remove the section of foam. eto dry re pieces, then leave t fig. 112 secure Ries ee 130. MODELMAKING: TH CREATING ASYMMETRICAL WALLED ENVIRONMENTS With architectural forms being used more and ‘more in all forms of screen design, model makers are constantly under pressure to create these features in miniature. Asymmetrical environments, can be easily achieved using foam board The simplest method is to 2egin with the floor plan, which dictates the shape of the room. Meas: tre the perimeter of the room, applying assem: bling allowance to one side, Mark the corner points in which the walls charge angle, and USi"9 Fig 443. Searing foam board fora curved a set square, extend perpendcular lines upwards. 3), Then carefully, from the other side, using 2 metal ruler and a scalpel, cut through the outer layer of paper and down though the layer of foam, with: ‘out piercing the other paper layer. Continue to cut all the corners in the same way. Carefully, begin to fold the joins inwards to create the angled walls, and either pin or glue them in place, CREATING CURVES Curved shapes can be created using mount board, ard, foam board and heavrweight paper. The latter isthe easiest to manipulate but not particu lary sturdy it is best suited to curved details, such as cycloramas, Foam board, mount board and card are used to create sturdier structures such as walls, Begin by marking out a series of perpendicular lines of equal spacing in the opposite direction of the intended curve. Using a scalpel blade and metal ruler, gently cut through the top layer of paper and foam layer only (Fig, 113). Cut through the sees of lines, making sure that all incisions are the same depth, At this point, you willbe able to feel the flexbilty and can create the curve according to the design specifica tions (Fig, 114). Once the cure is established, it «an be fixed to the floor with either pins or glue (Fig. 115). When creating @ curved feature with ‘mount board or card, mark cut the same series Fig. 115. Position of base and pin. Fig, 114. Gently bend the wall to create the shape. gp seidistant apart Depending on the thick- 2 the mate, ether run the sale Bade Wr , soring each tine gently to avid euting * rough. Hf the cardboard thin (approx ly 2mm), use the back ofthe Blade to score the ines, Once scoring is complete, the board/card vr ye more lable and can be fastened in the same way 25 DeFOFe. OTHER 3-D SHAPES ‘a dome is particulatly difficult to achieve with evict symmetry in card and paper. When there vile time, it's best not to. construct complex Shapes. instead, visit your local model shop for alternatives, or create them from a mould in fibre- lass resin, or vacuum-formed plastic or with gum strip. COLUMNS AND PILLARS Depending on its cross-section, pillars or columns can be created with tubing or wooden dowel for Fig. 116 The staircase is calculated by the depth and height ‘of each step, MODELMAKING: THE BASICS 131 ‘ylindrical pillars and foam board or mount board for oblong shapes. Experiment with various mate- tials to get the look you want. CREATING A STAIRCASE To construct a staircase, use mount beard rather than foam board. Mount board is thickand sturdy enough to maintain scale, Choose a 2rnm thick- ‘oss for the sides of the starcate. Taco 2 copy from the technical drawing and with a soft leaded pencil, colour in the outline on the back Use strips of masking tape to hold the tracing paper in place end with a ruler and mechanical pencil, draw the outline of the staircase twice, and cut both out (Fig. 116). Measure the width of the staircase and cut a base and vertical support. Glue both sides ofthe staircase to the base and to the vertical support. To make sure that the dimensions remain constant, insert another strip of card of the same width in between for a solid shape. Now cut out enough tread strips and riser stips to cover - 132. MODELMAKING: THE BASICS he staircase out of a Imm card. Applying a thin positioning each stip (Fig. 117) This method a the staircase out of a Imm car sides only). Using a pair with the faint guidelines. = Leave to dry, and apply & ll Be colour. Fig. 146 Bookshelf dimensions. 147 Glue shelves Using mode-making tweezers. modeling putty © achive a high level of etal. BATHROOM FURNITURE Baths, sinks and toilets are best created with model "8: Modelling putty is an easier way 10

    You might also like