Professional Documents
Culture Documents
jsp)
Login (/account/login) | Sign Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=header)
About This Instructable
8 439.891 views Posted:
Apr 27, 2014
916 favorites License:
geordie_h
(/member/geordie_h/)
Follow 114
(/member/geordie_h/)
Bio: Mad scientist, graphic designer,
mechanical drafter, scifi geek.
More by geordie_h:
(/id/Tipsforbuying
(/file/F14I5S4HUIWN6UZ/)
alasercutterengraver/)
(/id/Woodcarving
withaDremel/)
(/id/10TipsandTricksforLaser
EngravingandCutting/)
Tags: Laser (/tag/typeid/keywordLaser/)
Cutting (/tag/typeid/keywordCutting/)
(/file/F0IK3VTHTMNMYMC/)
Engraving (/tag/typeid/keywordEngraving/)
Hello, I'm Geordie and I currently work at ADX Portland Add instructable to:
(http://www.adxportland.com) running the Laser Cutter and Engraver. My job is
; Group
to take in customer's projects, set them up and run them on the laser. As a
result, I've learned a few tricks for how to set up jobs to get the best results, and
in this Instructable I'm going to pass them on to you.
Related
The laser I work with is an Epilog Helix and the program we use to run it is Corel
Draw. I'm going to try to write in general terms so you can use what ever laser Setup Your Laser To Engrave
and program you want to. Denim (/id/SetupYourLaser
ToEngraveDenim/)
Note: For several of these tips it is important to understand the difference by CovMakerDad
between Vector files and Bitmap files. Vector files are mathematical formulas (/id/Setup (/member/CovMakerDad/)
defining lines, circles etc. These are created by programs like Adobe Illustrator, 2.5D Laser Cut Gears
(/id/25DLaserCutGears/)
Inkscape, AutoCAD and Corel. Bitmap files are collections of individual pixels.
by JoeGadget
This included digital photos, Adobe Photoshop files, JPGs etc. With the Epilog (/member/JoeGadget/)
laser (and I'm assuming other ones) you can only cut with a vector file. You can (/id/25D
engrave with either vector or bitmap files. For several of my tricks you need your Laser cut lamp (/id/Lasercut
lamp/)
file to be a vector file for the trick to work.
by makerbuilderbaker
(/member/makerbuilderbaker/)
(/id/Laser
Laser Engraving a Bowl
Bottom (/id/LaserEngraving
Step 1: Tip #1: Preparing for cutting or engraving aBowlBottom/)
by bgerens (/member/bgerens/)
(/id/Laser
Laser Cut Comics Holder
(/id/LaserCutComics
Holder/)
by ejosully (/member/ejosully/)
(/id/Laser
(/file/FKHOAA1HUIWN6PV/)
(/file/FTQ2W7IHUIWND8Z/)
Before we get to tips for cutting and engraving, lets start with some good ideas
for preparing to cut or engrave.
Masking: If your going to engrave on something be aware that the smoke for
the the engraving can stain the edges of the engraved surface. If you don't want
that cover the surface with masking tape to protect it. The masking tape won't
decrease the power of the laser much (bump up the power a bit if you feel it
needs it) and the masking tape will protect the material around the engraving
from the smoke. After running the engraving just peal the masking tape off. I use
this a lot if I'm engraving on leather.
Presets: Your laser should have some suggested settings for cutting or
engraving different materials and different thicknesses. You should also be able
to load these settings into your computer or laser and save them as presets. Be
sure to name them something that makes sense so you can easily find them
That way the next time you need to engrave on leather or cut 1/8" thick acrylic,
you can just find the preset for that material.
Test cuts: Even when I have a preset for cutting a material I usually try to run a
test cut in it before I run the full job. Nothing is worse than taking the material out
of the laser and finding that it didn't cut all the way through. I create a small
circle or square (about 1/4" or 1/2" wide) and cut out in corner or on some scrap
material. Then I can see if I need to increase or decrease the power before I run
the final cut.
Step 2: Tip # 2: The power of layers
(/file/FOJETQZHTNO6ARR/)
Several of the tricks I'm going to talk about require being able to print only part
of a file or design at a time. The easiest way to do this it to put different parts of
you design on different layers in a file. Most graphics programs allow you to
create different layers and then to turn them off and on. While you can put
everything on one layer here are some advantages to using layers.
1. Controlling the order of cuts. Your laser should have some options to
determine the order in which lines are cut but one way for you to control that is
to put different cuts on separate layers on to turn the print of each layer on and
off in the order you want.
2. Have multiple parts and designs in one file. Rather than having a separate
files for each design, just put them all in one file and put them individual layers.
Then just print the layers one at a time. Helps keep things organized.
3. Creating guides. You might need to create some guides for laying out out
your design or maybe you'll need a target to place an object in. If you don't want
these to print put them on their own layer and turn off the printing of that layer.
Step 3: Tip #3: Wood grains and engraving
(/file/FITGH8ZHUIWN6LZ/)
So you've designed a logo or a image and you want to burn it onto a piece of
wood. Wood is a great material for engraving but you need to be aware of the
difference between engraving on a solid piece of wood versus a composite
material like plywood or MDF. Unlike a manufactured material, natural wood is
not uniform. The grains in the wood represent different types of growth in the
wood (winter and summer) and they will each burn differently. Usually the darker
grains are harder and the lighter parts between them is softer. As you can see
from the example photo you end up with a zebra pattern in the engraving. If
having a uniform look to the engraving is important to you, you'll probably get
better results from a good plywood where the top layer is more uniform.
One more thing to be aware of is materials with a thin veneer of nice wood on
top. The engraving will often burn through the thin veneer exposing what under
neath. Make sure what's beneath the veneer looks good and that you burn all
the way through the veneer so you don't have a mix of veneer and under
surface.
Step 4: Tip #4: Overlapping lines.
(/file/F8CS5KTHTNO6756/)
Often when cutting out multiple parts at once, the temptation is but them up
against each other so similar lines overlap. This is a good idea, but there is a
good way to do this and a bad way.
Let's say for example you have a bunch of squares to cut out. If you draw 2
squares (4 sides each) and then but them up against each other it will look like
there is only one line between them. The trouble with this is that although it
looks like there in only one line on the overlapping side, the computer still sees
2. The end result is that lines will get cut one on top of the other. This can lead
to that edge getting burnt, rather than a clean cut. It also waste time on a
unnecessary cut.
The way to fix this is to eliminate one of the doubled up lines. Draw one of the
squares with 3 sides and but it up against the one with 4 sides.
Step 5: Tip #5: Lines Raster versus Vector
(/file/FX0MJ0UHUJB3WNZ/)
The main difference between a raster engraving and a vector cut, is that for the
engraving the laser head travels left to right across the print area and then
moves down a hair and repeats until it has engraved the image. With the vector
cut the laser just traces the lines of the cut. As a result raster engraving take a
lot longer than vector cuts.
So what if you have art work, like a Celtic knot, or a design, like a map, that is
mostly lines. You can run it as a raster engraving. The advantage of this is that
you can set you line thickness to what ever you want and have different lines be
different thickness. The disadvantage is it is going to take a lot longer to
engrave.
If your design or art work is a vector file (this doesn't work with bitmap images)
there is a faster way to create your lines. Set your file up as a vector cut but turn
the power down and increase the speed. For example to cut through 1/8"
plywood I would have the laser power at 100% and the speed at 20%, but to just
score the wood I would set the power to 30% and the speed to 95%. So rather
than cutting through the material the laser just burns a thin line into it. The
advantage is it is going to be much faster than engraving. The disadvantage is
that the line is going to be very thin and you can't vary the thickness of it.
See my next tip for a way to get thicker vector lines.
Step 6: Tip #6: Defocus the laser for thicker vector lines.
(/file/FTYJ4K1HUJB3U9O/)
(/file/FZ4DAXTHUJB3V1Z/) (/file/FEJI7EUHUJB3V1Y/)
In my last tip I covered how to use the vector setting to just score lines into
material to produce line art work or designs. But the disadvantage of this trick is
that the line is very thin. But there is a way to tick the laser and get thicker lines.
The laser has a very tight focus so if lower your material a bit the laser will lose
focus and spread out. The way I do this is to put a small piece of wood that is
about 3/8" thick on top of the material I an using and have the laser focus on the
wood. Then I run the laser on a vector setting (with a lower power setting and a
higher speed). The result is a much thicker line than if the laser was correctly
focused.
There are 2 disadvantages to be aware of with this technique. One is the line is
a little soft and not as crisp as a raster engraving. Second, in the corners of the
lines the laser pauses just a little as it changes direction so the corners get
burned a little deeper. The corners look like they have little dots in them.
I discovered this trick when a client wanted a large order of wooden coasters
with a Celtic knot designed burned into them, but they had a limited budget. To
do the art work as an engraving would have taken to long and cost too much
(about 5 to 7 minutes each). But by doing the art work as a defocused vector
score, I cut the time to about a minute each and meet the budget.
Step 7: Tip #7: Adding a vector score to the edge of type or
engravings
(/file/FS3407DHTNO68EB/)
(/file/FIXU6ESHUIWN6V1/)
Normally you should get nice edges to any engraving your laser makes (if not
check your lens and focus). But if you want to give the edges of your engraving
a little extra sharpness here's a good trick. Add a light vector score to the edge
of the engraving.
Once again you will need to have your image as a vector file. Select your image
and add a thin stroke to the edge. When you set up the laser set the stroke for a
vector cut but turn the power down and increase the speed so it burns but
doesn't cut through the edge. After the laser does the engraving it will come
back and burn a thin line around the very edge.
This is a great effect for type.
Step 8: Tip #8: Hitting the target
(/file/FH6VH8VHTNO67HP/)
Some times you need to hit a target area that is not a the lasers origin. For
example a piece of scrap plastic that you've already cut several shapes out of,
but there is enough room between some of the old cuts to do a new cut out.
How can you accurately get your new cut out into the left over space?
First measure the target area and get its rough dimensions. Make sure there is
enough room for what you want to cut out. Then place the scarp material in the
laser and measure down and across from the laser's origin to the target area.
For example a 1" by 2" rectangle located 2.5" down from the top and 1.75" over
from the left edge. Then in you file use guides to mark out the target area and
from the left edge. Then in you file use guides to mark out the target area and
position in the distance from the origin as the area on the scrap material. Place
your design or cut out in the target area. Make sure your guides won't print out
and run the file. If you've measured everything correctly your cut out should be
in the target area.
Step 9: Tip #9: Engraving multiple objects
(/file/FU0C01QHUJB3UHP/)
(/file/FK6PUYOHUIWN6MQ/) (/file/F91EBMIHUIWN6L2/)
Lets say you have a bunch of wooded coasters that you want to engrave your
logo on. You could put them one at a time at the origin of the laser and engrave
them one by one. But wouldn't it be nicer to layout several at once and have the
laser engrave them all?
The trick is to create a grid that you can lay the pieces out on and accurately
have the laser engrave on them. Create a new vector file the size of your laser
bed. Then measure one of your shapes/items. If you can get its exact shape
great, but if not just figure out a nice geometrical shape, like a circle or square,
that it will fit snugly into. This will be your target shape. Create the target and
position your design (engraving or cut) in the target. Now copy both the target
and your design and paste as many copies as you can fit in the space of your
laser bed.
Tip : Leave a little space between the targets so you can set them down without
bumping the ones around them.
Before you print the file, move the targets to one layer and your design to
another layer. Then turn off the printing for the layer with your design on it.
Cut a piece of cardboard to the size of your laser bed and put it in the laser. Now
make sure just the layer with targets is set to print. Engrave, score or cut the
target shapes into the card board. This creates a grid on the cardboard that
matches the one in the file. Now place the items you are going to engrave on the
targets marked on the cardboard. Don't forget to refocus the laser on the tops of
what you are engraving on. Now you can turn off the printing of the target layer
and turn on the printing of the design layer.
As long as you don't move the cardboard you can just keep laying out new
parts, hitting engrave and repeating until you have all your parts done.
Step 10: Tip #10: Using the Red Dot to figure out where to cut
or engrave
(/file/FT2FBXXHTNO6B0F/)
(/file/FGMNYWAHUJB3V0B/)
The laser I use has the option to turn on a laser pointer that projects a red dot
where the cutting/engraving laser will fire. This is helpful for figuring out where
the laser will cut before you run your job on your material. Simply turn off the
power to the laser and turn on the red dot. Then run the file and watch where the
red dot goes.
One thing to be aware of is this works well with vector lines, where the laser/red
dot traces the lines, but not so well with engravings where the laser pass back
and for over the whole area of the engraving. If I need to use the red dot to
figure out where an engraving will end up, what I often do is to draw a vector
square or circle around the engraving and then just having the red dot trace the
square. Or draw horizontal and vertical center lines.
We have a be nice comment policy.
w I Made it! Add Images Post Comment
We have a be nice comment policy.
Please be positive and constructive. w I Made it! Add Images Post Comment
Geordie, thanks for this. New to the whole thing, and
thought I was going to set fire to some wood today was
trying to do some ablation and failed miserably. I do like the
bit with the masking tape, and definitely about using the
vector to give an outline to words. Much appreciated!
Flag
Great tips Geordie espically the masking tape tip.Im having
trouble with scale. I set everything to A4 which is about the
size of my bed. Id like to use all of that space but Im either
running off by miles or bunched up in one corner. With the
page set to a4 in Corel and the bed size set the same I did a
test cut.I set a box 25mm wide x 100 long.It came out 11mm
wide x55mm. I cant figure out how to calibrate it.Whats a
good starting point.
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . ChrisR113 (/member/ChrisR113)
8
Sounds like the scale of the laser and Corel are off. 14 days ago Reply
I've run into problems where I have the file size set to
one dimension but the print size set to another size.
Corel usually tries to center the file in the print settings
not the file setting.
Make sure your file and print settings are the same.
Flag
Thanks for taking the time to reply. 11 days ago
I worked in engineering for 10 years and ran a 24 meter long
cnc drilling machine. I may be mistakenly using the same
techniques to zero this laser machine. Something is off and I'm
still a bit lost among all the Chinese windows.
I looked at the print settings at it all seams to be set to A4.
I have limited time but some thing i have noticed whilst playing.
The x axis travel shows in the software as 0 to about 900mm,
Its an A4 sized machine so it should be showing about 0 to 300
to 350 ish at the end of travel.Its the same on the y axis.
Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Kind regards
Chris.
Flag
Thanks for sharing these tips! :)
Flag
Wow thanks for this tip its saved me a lot of time on my
machine. Do you know if there is an easy way to 'engrave'
words (fonts) using this cutting method instead of
engraving?
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . tammyselby (/member/tammyselby)
8
The only option is to out line the words rather than 18 days ago Reply
filling them in and then do a shallow cut. It doesn't fill
in the center but is much quicker.
One trick is to do a light engraving and then outline the
edge. The light engraving is quicker than a full
engraving and then by outlining the edge you get a
nice sharp edge.
Flag
Lovely! Thanks so much :) 18 days ago
Flag
These are wonderful tips. I hope you can help me. I have a
small Chinese laser, one that is based on CD/DVD frames.
For the life of me, I cannot make logos that have filled in
areas. It does great with outlines, but it ends there. I create
the image in Photoshop, save it as a bitmap and import it
into Inkscape.
I use the 'Trace to Bitmap' under path. I found problems
using Laser in version 0.91 so I am using 0.48.5.
No matter what I do I cannot get the logo to fill in.
HELP!
Flag
I have a Chinese laser cutter too and have had some a month ago
experience with a bunch of them , try to use it with corel 4 ,
most of the laser machines cant handle higher versions , and
corel reads the laser cutter as a printer , while i tried to use it
with other softwares but they don't detect it , in case you want
to make a logo with inside fill and outside cut on a chinese
laser you either make the logo a bitmap and draw cutlines over
it , or just make a black fill most chinese lasers will make the
black fill an engrave and make sure your output setting is set
on auto when sending the file over to the machine cause in
case it's set on vect it will only identify the vector lines ignoring
fills .
Flag
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . Flevine50 (/member/Flevine50)
8
You should be able to engrave a bitmap image. To 2 months ago Reply
cut you have to have a vector image. I would go
straight from photoshop to the laser and skip
Inkscape. The only reason I can see to going to
Inkscape would be if you need to scale the image. A
vector will scale better than a bitmap.
Flag
I have tried but how do I go directly to the laser? It isn't listed 2 months ago
as a printer and I can't set it up as a printer. I need to
generate Gcode. How?
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . Flevine50 (/member/Flevine50)
8
Sorry I've never had to generate Gcode. 2 months ago Reply
Best of luck.
Flag
i will buy a Co2 engrave laser but Did u suggest it to buy?
if i buy it i can to some design on photoshop and ingrave it?
or only its program?
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . MrHoumotu. (/member/MrHoumotu.)
8
You should be able to do your design in Photoshop. 24 days ago Reply
You might be able to print/laser from photoshop or you
might need to save your photoshop file as a certain file
type, like a jpg, and then import that into the laser's
program.
Flag
hi there. I am using a Versa Laser300... I am looking for a
assistance in settings to make tags.... Im wanting laser
information to laser (Rastor) and cut rectangle out... (vector
cutting).... is there a specific power/speed you might know
of... I have tried everything!! :) Great tip with the burning of
wood!!
Flag
Flag
10 Tips and Tricks for Laser Engraving and Cutting
ambraleb (/member/ambraleb) a month ago by Reply
geordie_h (/member/geordie_h/)
Exellent tips
Download (/id/10TipsandTricksforLaserEngravingandCutting/?download=pdf) Flag
h (/id/10TipsandTricksforLaserEngravingandCutting/) 10 Steps .
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . ambraleb (/member/ambraleb)
Collection I Made it!
Reply Favorite Share
8
Thanks! a month ago
Flag
Hello there! Great post :) I was wondering if someone could
help me with what laser machine to purchase? I am in the
UK and I am struggling to find reviews. It is for home crafts
so I would like a cheapish one! I am interested in cutting &
engraving on wood. I am a graphic designer so the design
side wont be a problem. Many thanks for any help :)
Flag
Hi there, a month ago
you should look at the glowforge, it is amazing new desktop
laser printer.
www.glowforge.com (http://www.glowforge.com)
if you like it, please use this thread: $100 dollar discount.
Still 10 days left for 50% preorder discount
http://glowforge.com/referred/?kid=j3E2BI
(http://glowforge.com/referred/?kid=j3E2BI)
enjoy :)
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . boubaw79 (/member/boubaw79)
8
Thanks that looks amazing. I've been hearing some a month ago Reply
great buzz about it.
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . sammycap (/member/sammycap)
8
I just posted an instructable about buying a laser. a month ago Reply
Here is the link:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Tipsforbuyinga
lasercutterengraver/
I've only worked with one brand so I can't review
brands.
Good luck.
Flag
quick question. I need to know what type of wood to use
and where to buy it for a cheap lazer cutting project I'm
doing. Thank you
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . TommyS14 (/member/TommyS14)
8
I use a lot of 1/8" plywood. It cuts nicely and holds up a month ago Reply
afterwards. Bamboo ply is beautiful but a little
expensive.
As to where to get it, I would go to a wood store.
Home Depot and other big box store have wood but it
isn't the best quality. Shop around to find the best
prices.
Flag
Great Tip! The masked cuts look so much cleaner.
Q: Do you ever get some leftover goo from the adhesive
on the rastered parts? Not sure if it's just burnt wood, or if
it's leftover from tape. What happens to the tape, does the
laser completely remove it? I'm cutting / engraving cherry
wood.
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . stadiumgraph (/member/stadiumgraph)
8
Usually the laser burns through the tape and doesn't 2 months ago Reply
leave any residue, but if its old tape or a special tape
it might. I use plain masking tape. Also with wood
you can some times get sap coming out of the wood
from the heat. I've only had trouble with that when I
set the power to high. Try lowering the power or
speeding up the time.
Good luck.
Flag
Great Tip! The masked cuts look so much cleaner.
Q: Do you ever get some leftover goo from the adhesive
on the rastered parts? Not sure if it's just burnt wood, or if
it's leftover from tape. What happens to the tape, does the
laser completely remove it? I'm cutting / engraving cherry
wood.
Flag
According to u which material is best suited for laser.
Because I am using acrylic and I don't think that I am
getting good results dimension wise may be it is beacause
of the quality of the material ., but which material do you
suggest.
Flag
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . Sonali Parida (/member/Sonali Parida)
X geordie_h (/member/geordie_h) (author) . Sonali Parida (/member/Sonali Parida)
8
The 2 materials I have the most experience with are 2 months ago Reply
wood and acrylic. Both are fine. You need to make
sure you are setting the laser's speed and power
correctly. To much power burn the edges. Also
plastics, like acrylic can warp from the heat of the
laser. Try making some test cuts with different
settings until you find the one that gives you the best
results.
Flag
Flag
I need ur help please tell me how do I make this with my
brothers photo
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F20/4HHY/IDR81PY0/F204HHYIDR81PY0.LARGE.jpg)
Flag
Flag
I would recommend mask and or keeping the leather wet. 3 months ago
Flag
Hi, Is it possible to safe engraving aluminium or copper
(circuit board) with any DIY laser engraving? Thanks!
Flag
Flag
Do you have any recommendations for making laser cut
fluorescent acrylic get the rough edges needed to glow?
My table saw makes the edges pop for cutting pieces
down to size for my laser; but once they are lasered into
my designs, what options are available for bringing that
glow back?
Flag
Flag
great tips! Thanks!!!
Flag
Flag
These are going to come in really handy for my projects!
Even though I already knew #1, #5 and #9 are killer!
Thanks for posting this!
Flag
This is a great resource you've put together.
Only comment I'd make on this particular tip is, if you're
cutting a material which sometimes contains air pockets or
other imperfections (e.g. birch ply) you're better off adding
the extra cuts. If one cut separating two pieces doesn't cut
cleanly, you lose the two pieces. With the extra cut you're
more likely to only lose one. It takes longer to cut but can
save time, if you see what I mean?!
That said, it makes perfect sense with regular materials!
Flag
Geordie, what a neat job that you have of doing laser
cutting and all sorts of projects like that. I like the projects
that you demonstrated in the article and they look
amazing. Do you have any tips on how to use an Epilog
laser?http://www.productiveplastics.com.au/custom
design/customdesignfabrication/
Flag
I More Comments
FEATURED CHANNELS
Parties
(/tag/type Breakfast Arduino Laser Cut Minecraft
id/category (/tag/type (/tag/type (/tag/type (/tag/type
craft/channel id/category id/category LinkIt ONE id/category id/category
Thanksgiving partiesand Kitchen & Bath food/channel Intel IoT technology/channel
(/id/mediatek workshop/channelplay/channel
Newsletter
(http://www.instructables.com/howto/thanksgiving/)
weddings/) (/id/moen/) breakfast/) (/id/intel/) arduino/) linkitone/) lasercutting/) minecraft/)
Join 2 million + to receive instant
inspiration in your inbox.
enter email I'm in!
Mobile
Download our apps!
Android » (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.adsk.instructables)
iOS » (https://itunes.apple.com/app/instructables/id586765571)
Windows » (http://apps.microsoft.com/windows/enus/app/7afc8194c771441a959054250d6a8300)
About Us Find Us
Who We Are (/about/) Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/instructables)
Advertise (/advertise/) Youtube (http://www.youtube.com/user/instructablestv)
Contact (/about/contact.jsp) Twitter (http://www.twitter.com/instructables)
Jobs (/community/PositionsavailableatInstructables/)
Pinterest (http://www.pinterest.com/instructables)
Help (/id/howtowriteagreatinstructable/)
Google+ (https://plus.google.com/+instructables)
Tumblr (http://instructables.tumblr.com)
Resources
For Teachers (/teachers/)
Artists in Residence (/air)
Gift Pro Account (/account/give?sourcea=footer)
Forums (/community/)
Answers (/tag/typequestion/?sort=RECENT)
Sitemap (/sitemap/)
Terms of Service (http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=21959721) |
Privacy Statement (http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/item?siteID=123112&id=21292079) |
Legal Notices & Trademarks (http://usa.autodesk.com/legalnoticestrademarks/) | Mobile Site (http://m.instructables.com)
(http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?id=20781545&siteID=123112)
© 2015 Autodesk, Inc.