METHODS OF INSTALLATION OF PLUMBING FIXTURES

Water closet

The exposed Flanged is the

mounting based fo the water
closet. Then place the two new
5/16 inch bolts to the sides of
flanged. Then put the new toilet
gasket. 2. Place the water closet
make sure both botls come
through the holds. Apply the pressure on the bowl over the ring & flange. 3. Add the
washer add nuts to the protruding bolts & tighten until snug. 4. Isntall the toilet tank,
push two 5/16 by 3 inch mounting bolts through the small holes on the tanks bottom.
Place the rubber washer just beneath the bolt heads inside the tank to create the
waterseal. 5. Add the tank on the bowl threading the bolts into bolts holes sandwiching
the gasket between the tank and bowl 6. Install the toilet flush handle by screwing the
handle to the lift arm. Toilet handle are threaded in reverse. 7. Intsall the water line
from the wall or floor fixtures to the feed valve on the underside of the Tank.

lavatory

Place the mounting plate in the

installation location and mark the wall
through each of the mounting holes. If there is
no mounting plate, use the holes in the back
of the sink basin as your template. Important:
The sink should be anchored to two wall
studs. Locate and mark the position of the
wall studs to which you will fasten your sink by listening for a solid sound as you knock on the
wall or by using a stud finder. If the studs in your bathroom do not line up to the mounting
location for your sink, wood blocking can be installed between the studs using standard 2 x 4s.
STEP 2 Drill mounting holes for the anchor or lag bolts using the guides created in the
previous step. If the wall is tile, use a masonry drill bit. STEP 3 Attach the new faucet and drain
assembly to the sink. STEP 4 Secure the mounting plate to the wall with the anchor bolts. If
there is no mounting plate, attach the sink directly to the wall with the mounting hardware.
STEP 5 Connect the water supply and drain lines. Note: Some wall-mount sinks include a trim
piece to cover the plumbing lines. These typically attach directly to the wall framing with lag
bolts. STEP 6 When installation is complete, turn on the water supply to check for any leaking
from the water supply lines or sink basin.

Urinal

1.Provide structural support directly behind the

finished wall surface in the location where the
urinalwill be installed. Unless the unit will be bolted
directly to wall studs, the use of 1-inch,
weathertreated plywood behind the drywall is
recommended. Be sure the plywood is adequately
secured to the wall studs before beginning with the
installation.

2. Determine where the drain, wall hangers and water supply should be located using the
supplied stencil. Tape the stencil to the wall in the desired location making sure it is level. The
urinal rim height is traditionally located 24 inches above floor level but may be altered based
on user preference. Using the stencil as a guide, carefully mark all locations on the wall with a
pencil.

3. Remove the stencil. Drill 1/4-inch pilot holes where the wall hanger screws will be
mounted. Using a drywall saw, remove just enough drywall so that the water supply and waste
water line can be modified to exit the wall in the desired location. Modify the water supply and
waste line so they they exit the wall in the desired location. Double check their location by
holding the stencil to the wall aligned with bit wall hanger mounting holes. 4.

4. Mount the urinal wall hangers in place using the supplied screws. Be sure to screw them
firmly to the wall and to the wood supports located behind the wall. Verify that the hangers are
level using a carpenter level for reference. Adjust as necessary.
 5. Attach the supplied outlet connection to the existing waste pipe using PVC cement. Adjust
the placement of the outlet connection, so that it is located exactly where it has been marked
on the wall with the stencil. If drywall removal was necessary, hold the stencil in place, and
double check the location.

6. Carefully hold the urinal in place slightly above the wall hangers, and align the the urinal
outlet fitting located on the wall with the waste opening behind the urinal. Lower the urinal
onto the hangers. Carefully tighten the attachment screws to secure the urinal firmly to the
wall. Do not over tighten because the porcelain surface will crack easily.

7. Connect the flush valve unit to the top of the urinal using the supplied inlet spud. The spud
should be located between the flush valve and the urinal and will only slip into place if
positioned properly. Tighten the flush valve securely, being careful to use the supplied rubber
gaskets to prevent water seepage. 8. Connect the water supply to the flush valve, and test the
connection for drips and leaks.

Bath tub

Step 1 : Pull Up Old Subfloor..

Step 2 : Remove Nails

Step. 3 : Apply Liquid Nail

Step.4 : Nail New Subfloor to Joists

Step. 5 : Add Liquid Nail to Subfloor

Step. 6 : Nail Second Layer of

Subfloor

Step. 7 : Mark Position of Tub

Step 8 : Build Main Wall and Pony

Wall

Step 9 : Mark Drain Position

Step 10 : Cut Subfloor for Drain

Step 11 : Assemble Waste Overflow

Step 12 : Secure Overflow Bracket

Step 13 : Assemble Overflow Drain

Step 14 : Embed Tub in Mortar

Step 15 : Secure Tub to Studs

Kitchen sink

The first step when installing a new

sink is to properly site the opening. Most sink
manufacturers provide a template.

Position the template so it is centered

on the sink cabinet and is at least 1 1/2 inches
back from the countertop’s front edge. If your
countertop is deeper than 24 inches, place it
farther back, but not more than 4 inches.

Tape the template in place, then outline

it with a marker.

After marking the opening, remove the

template and drill a 3/8-inch-diameter hole in each corner. Insert a saber-saw blade in one of
the holes and start cutting along the inside of the line. To prevent the cutout from snapping off
and falling through as you complete the cuts, first screw a scrap of wood from front to back on
the top of the cutout long enough so it spans the opening, plus a couple of inches.

When you’ve finished, simply lift the cutout from the template. Install the faucet (see
How to Install a Kitchen Faucet for instructions) and the sink strainers. (Doing this when
you’ve got full access to the sink will be much easier than fitting the pieces in from below after
the sink is installed.)

Next, to create a watertight seal between the sink and the countertop, apply a bead of
silicone caulk or plumber’s putty around the entire perimeter of the underside of the sink’s lip.
Carefully flip the sink over and insert into the opening, taking care not to disturb the caulk or
putty.

Now install the kitchen sink. If your sink is heavy, get help lifting and installing it; also
consider placing a couple of scraps of wood near the edge of the opening to support the sink
and protect your fingers as you drop it into position.

Most sinks are pulled down tight against the countertop with special mounting clips
that hook onto the lip on the underside of the sink and are tightened with a screwdriver or nut-
driver. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for spacing these clips.

Tightening the mounting clips may cause the caulk or putty to squeeze out from under
the sink lip, so remove this excess with a clean, soft rag. To complete the project, first connect
the P-trap. Join the faucet lines to the hot and cold supply lines with flexible supply tubes and
connect the strainers to the waste line
Shower head

1. To remove your old shower head, wrap the

connecting nut and the shower arm with a dry cloth.
This will prevent scratches on the shower arm surface.
Grab the connecting nut with the adjustable wrench.
Then, rotate counterclockwise to remove the shower
head. If the shower head is stuck, there is probably rust
and limescale on the thread. To solve the problem,
apply rust remover or silicone spray on the thread. Wait
several minutes for the product to take effect.

2. After removing the shower head, clean the

thread of the shower arm. To do this, apply rust remover, wait several minutes and scrub the
thread with a hard-bristle brush. Finally, use a dry cloth to remove the gunk. After that, wrap
the shower arm with Teflon tape counterclockwise. This way the tape won’t come off the
thread when screwing the shower head.

3. All handheld shower heads come with a flexible hose made of metal or plastic. To
install, screw one end of the hose on the shower arm. Then, wrap the connecting nut with a dry
cloth and apply extra pressure with the wrench. After that, wrap the thread at the other end of
the hose with Teflon tape clockwise. Finally, screw the shower head on the free end of the
hose. In this case, it isn’t recommended to apply too much pressure on the thread.

4. After installing the shower head, turn the water on and check there are no water
leaks. If you find them, unscrew the shower head or the hose. Then apply more Teflon tape and
more pressure on the thread to fix the problem.

5. If you want to use the hand-held and the fixed rain shower head at the same time,
you’ll need to install a cross-T diverter fitting. This gadget deviates the water flow into two
directions, to supply the handheld shower head or the fixed shower head. To install it you just
need to screw it on the shower arm. Then, wrap it with a dry cloth and apply extra pressure
with the wrench. After that, apply Teflon tape on its two output threads clockwise.

Finally, install the fixed shower head on one thread and the flexible hose on the other.
Apply additional pressure with the wrench if it’s necessary. If you only have a tub spout in your
bathroom, you can also install a hand held shower head by adding a new tub spout diverter. To
install one, unscrew your existing tub spout. Then, screw the new diverter and connect the tub
spout and the hand shower head to each one of its output.