Preliminary IA Research

Factual / Time Period Conceptual Research Images

Images
Statement The general shape of fashion (for women) during this time period is emphasizing a tiny waist and
accentuating the hips and bosom. There is a sort of puffy sleeve and a long, thin skirt (rather than it poofing
out). It was important to include lace and feathers in your clothing items. As described in the notes hats
seemed to be “plopped” on top of the hair which also was made voluminous. Corsets were made to fit
women very tightly and shrink their waist in. There is extra fabric added to the shoulders and bosom. Men
wore slacks with high neck collars, ties, and a decently long overcoat.
My vision for this play is to highlight the rebellious nature of the
corset pieces but to subdue them with color to reflect a submissive
element which I think is associated with all of the characters. I want
the costume pieces to seem extravagant in design and material but
to be subtle in color. I want the focus to be the bodices that the
women wear and allow for the men to wear basic pieces that are
accurate to the time period.

Notes
Fashion 1905-1906

● Dresses are made of lightweight cloth in cotton, linen or silk, embroidered goods and lace insertion
are heavily used; white is common but dresses can also be colored or patterned. Colored under-slips
can seen coloring white dresses.
● Bodices have a slightly wider shoulder line than the 1890s, and the Turn-of the-Century pigeon
front is less pronounced.
● Skirts are slightly trained the waist fits smoothly over the hips and very high neck.
● Sleeves are slightly puffed and elbow length (long, fitted, cuffs were also worn), long leather gloves
completely cover the arm. The ladies taking tea have removed their gloves.
● Etiquette point: never wear gloves while eating or drinking.
● Hats are not overly-large and shapes vary quite a bit. The styling is very feminine and decorated
with feathers, flowers, lace, and ribbon. They are plopped on top of the head or perched at an angle.
● The hair is a fairly full and wavy Gibson Girl Pompadour.
● Parasols are fairly long-handled and large.
● Jewelry: Simple necklaces and brooches are worn at the neck.

Black Women’s Fashion 1900-1920’s:

During the Harlem Renaissance, black art including literature, music, poetry and political theory flourished.
Key figures of the time included Zora Neale Hurston, Georgia Douglas Johnson, Bessie Smith, Dorothy
West, Ida Cox and more. Black women were given more opportunities for education in some areas and led
the arts to new heights by addressing racial and gender issues within their work. There was also increasing
backlash from white communities in response to the increase in wealth and status of black members of
society, and with this came fear and violence.

The fashion for black women depended on both geographic location as well as socioeconomic status.The
clothing of the time featured ruffles, full sleeves, long feather style skirts, brimmed hats and formal collars,
particularly for women in the South. Black women used their new-found freedoms and increased wealth to
buy clothes that were exclusively worn by white women prior to the 1900s. A common fashion expectation
was wearing nicer clothes when ‘stepping out’ and being in public, whether that meant church, weddings or a
more informal social gathering.