ECO >YEI by INDRANI PERERA nlocking the mysteries of natural dyeing began for me as a child when I first ate beets in salads and had to lean over the bowl so that the juice wouldn't dribble down my chin and stain my clothes. This magical transference of color onto skin and clothes fascinated and enthralled me. It has lead me to dye fabric with shop-bought dyes, wool felt with food coloring, and rope with onion skins. By far my favorite method of dyeing uses plants and natural fibers. Eco dyeing, or close-contact printing, was first developed by Australian designer, artist, and sheep farmer India Flint. ‘She saw potential in the eggs dyed with onion skins at Easter time by her grandmother, and she transferred the tech- niques of that Latvian tradition to eucalyptus leaves and fabric, | first learned eco dyeing in the foothills ofthe misty Dandenong Ranges, twenty-one miles east of Melbourne, ‘Australia, with two beautiful teachers: Jacqui Grace and Rebecca Funk of the Embodied Arts Collective. Eco dyeing fabric imprints the beautiful and colorful shapes of leaves, petals, and bark on the material being dyed. It's like having your very own garden or forest immortalized ‘on paper o fabric that can then be turned into cards, writ- ing paper and envelopes, journals, scarves, skirts, dresses, shirts, and bags.Its as simple and as beautiful as lovingly gathering some plant matter, reverently laying it on cloth or paper, bun- dling it around metal rods or tins, reverently tying with string or wire, then immersing in a pot of boiling water and waiting for the plants and metals to do their mysterious and botanical work. ‘Traditional dyeing with plants involves boiling fibers in a pot of water with plant matter and a mordant such as alum or fron salts. The role of the mordant is to fix the color to the fibers so that it won't rinse off afier dyeing. In eco dye- ing, instead of mineral salts, the pot you are using and the metal rods and tins you wrap your fabric around act as a mordant that can be used again and again. In traditional dyeing, plants are used for their beautiful colors. In eco dye- ing, they are used to add color and imprint their unique shapes directly onto the fabric being dyed. ‘This isa great activity to do with children, as they love to for- age for plants and will quickly be able to tell you where to find maples, oaks, and willows that you can use for your eco dyeing. They also love making pretty leaf patterns on the paper before bundling, ‘The key to eco dyeing is the plants you use. They are the stars and the main attraction of the dyeing process, not only for the colors they impart but also for their shape and their imprint. The more] dye, the more I seek to learn about plants. Eco dyeing has awakened my curiosity about the plants around me: What is this one called? Which parts can T use? What colors will it give me? Is it safe? Which season is best for harvesting and gathering? Where else might it be growing? PLANTS FOR DYEING Growing alongside us, day by day, are the beautiful, mys- terious, and unfathomable denizens of the plant kingdom. ‘When we spend our time growing and harvesting plants, ‘we catch a tiny glimpse of their deepest secrets and inner- most hearts. Plants offer us so much and request very little in return— perhaps some water, sun, or shade and a kind word. When alive they offer us shade and oxygen; when harvested, they nourish us with food; and when felled they provide us with furniture and lodging. They even offer us vibrant colors with which to adorn our bodies and decorate our clothing. Weare forever in their debt. IDENTIFYING POTENTIAL DYE PLANTS ‘Although most of us refer to plant species by their com- mon names most of the time, using the full botanical name isn't just more accurate: it might tell us something about the plant's uses. The second part ofa plant's two-part name, or its specific epithe, is particularly good to know: often it describes something special or notable about the plant. A good example is Zingiber officinale, or ginger: officinale in- dicates this plant was used in traditional medicine Learning your plant names not only will make you more fa- miliar with the plants in your world, but they can help you anticipate which plants will create colorful masterpieces in your dye pots. Take Marsdenia tinctoria, or indigo: tinctoria indicates it is a plant that was used in traditional dyeing, Here are some more specific epithets to look for: caerulea/eaeruleus/eaeruleum ‘blue lutea/lutews/uteum gold or yellow nigra/niger/nigram Black purpurea/purpureus/purpureum purple rubra/ruber/rubrum red sanguinea/sanguineus/sanguineum blood-like viridis/viride green Here are some more tips for identifying a potential source of dye: + Rub a leaf between your fingers: ifit has a sharp scent, it has aromatic oils and acids, so it may be good dye source. + Rub a crushed leaf on cloth: ifit leaves a stain or color, it has potential for dyeing, + Leaves that have stained the concrete where they landed are promising. NOTE: Eucalyptus leaves are a big exception: they are col- orless before being heated and vibrantly colored afterward. SOME DYE PLANTS Some easy-to-find dye materials are already lurking in your kitchen, Yellow and red onion skins, purple carrot peelings, beet greens, red cabbage leaves, turmeric root, and used tea bags all give great colors in the dye pot. Flowers, leaves, bark, berries, and seeds can all give color in the dye pot. Leaves in your yard or garden that can give lovely colors and shapes include eucalyptus, maple, wil- low, catalpa, and blackberry. Try petals from flowers such as roses, Flanders poppies, and hibiscus. Acorns, avocado pits, and seed pods from acacias are also good to dye with. Try bark from different trees, such as Osage orange and birch, and see what happens. Experiment with what you have on hand. Presoak tough materials like bark, sticks, and acorns. You can also presoak any leaves overnight to make them more malleab)will give a better print if they can bend with the material. Bulky items thatare hard to roll can be grated and scattered on your paper or fabric The mystery of plants extends from the wild to the dye pot. They are unpredictable and surprising, There are so many variables in eco dyeing, every time I dye, something dif- ferent happens. The part of each plant being used, how it was harvested and stored, what type fabric and metals are ‘used, how long the bundles soak, and then how long they are stored before being unbundled—all these things affect the end result. WHERE TO FIND PLANTS + Your backyard, friends’ gardens, and roadsides. + Kitchen scraps—Before you add any vegetable peelings to the compost pile, consider throwing them in the dye pot first! + Local parks—After wild storms you'll often find fallen branches and broken plants. + Tree pruning crews—Ask workers for bark and branches. + Grocery store—It is a great source of wilted greens and other discarded produce that can make fabu- lous additions to the dye pot. + Florist—Ask for spent flowers and greenery. GATHERING Harvest plants that grow abundantly in your local area and that you can positively identify. You want to be sure to col- lect only plants that are not poisonous and that you know aren't rare or endangered. Please also ask the plant first if it's okay for you to pick from it, and remember to thank it forts gift Experiment with fresh and dried plant materials. Try gath- ceringleaves from the same plantat different times through- ‘out the year, and note the differences in dye color. Try the same plant grown in different locations, and observe any differences. NOTE OF CAUTION: There are many plants, particularly in ‘our gardens, that are deadly. The flowers, leaves, and bulbs of daffodils, jonquils, and lily of the valley are poisonous. So are the leaves of rhubarb, tomato, and blackberry night- shade. Know your plants well before picking any. METAL MORDANTS & COLOR ‘The metal of your pot and the metals you wrap your mate- rial around will all affect the color of your dye bath. tron. ‘creates darker shades, copper enhances greens, and alumi- num brightens colors. (Stainless steel has litte effect) PAPER OR FABRIC FOR DYEING WHAT TO DYE Paper takes up the vibrant colors of plants beautifully and is great for beginners because it doesn't need any prepara- tion, Use heavyweight art paper. ‘Animal fibers, which contain proteins, include wool, mo- hair, alpaca, and silk. Vegetable fibers, which contain cellu lose, include cotton, linen, hemp, nettle, amie, banana, and bamboo. When using cotton or linen, choose unbleached fabric for richer, deeper shades. A NOTE ON COTTON Dyeing cotton is tricky. Ina case of “opposites attract,” plant (cellulose) fibers need to be coated in an alkaline mordant (eg, ash) or a protein mordant (eg, soy) to take up plant ‘dyes, Usingan alkaline mordant followed by a protein mor- dant is even better. More details about this process can be found in India Flint’s book, Eco Color: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles. PREPARING FABRIC FOR DYEING In traditional dyeing, both animal and vegetable fibers are first washed and then treated with a premordant to in- crease the dye color and brightness. However, this process ‘ypically uses a lot of harmful chemicals, and when you are eco dyeing paper, wool, and silk, no pretreatment is neces- sary, However, ifyou will be using raw wool, you may want to give ita gentle hand wash to remove the grease. ‘The cleaner your fabric, the more evenly distributed the fi- nal color will be. To me, though, the beauty of eco dyeing is in the random patterns created by the process, so I am ‘not so worried about having my fabric super clean. In fact, I prefer the more uneven and mottled look! WATER FOR DYEING Ifyou can, use rain or distilled water for your washing and dyeing. Town water can be treated by local councils with, alum to clarify the water, hot water coming through old copper systems will add copper to your dye pot, and rusty pipes can add iron when you didn't want any. SOME NOTES ON SAFETY Although you'l find most of the equipment you need for eco dyeing in your kitchen, don’t use the same pots and bowls for dyeing that you use for cooking. ‘When working with plant dyes wear gloves, work in a well- ventilated area (preferably not your kitchen), and don't eat, or drink while you work.ECO DYEING BY HOT BUNDLING To successfully eco dye, all you need to do is gather some plant material from your garden or kitchen, find a pot to dedicate to dyeing as well as some metal rods or cans for bundling, and finally, get some art paper or wool or silk fabric. Iused a stainless steel pot (because that was what I found at the thrift store), copper rods, and onion skins in my dye pot. My three paper bundles were rose; ma- ple leaves and brown onion skins; and acacia pods with some kind of bracken (I was hoping that it would leave a good imprint). MATERIALS One 84 x 11-inch sheet of white or unbleached 90-pound paper ORa similar-size piece of white or naturally light-colored wool or silk fabric Gathered plant matter, such as bark, leaves, flowers, seeds, berries, and/or fruits Bottle tops, ring pulls, paper clips, hairpins, and/or bits of rusty metal with interesting shapes (optional) EQUIPMENT Scissors Large stainless steel bow! Large old towel Large metal pot, ideally in brass, copper, iron, aluminum, or tin, with a lid (see notes) ‘Metals for the dye pot, such as the following (see notes): Barbed wire Old iron horse shoes Old iron nails ‘Several empty aluminum soup cans, with labels removed (the more corroded the better!) OR lengths of copper tubing (see notes) Copper wire or twine, to tie the bundles Stick or dedicated spoon for poking ‘Tongs =\ ‘Notes: For best results, try to stick with one kind of metal Per pot, such as all copper or iron, You can find copper tubing at your local plumbing store. ‘They can even cut custom lengths that will fit into your dye pot. You will need a dedicated pot for dyeing: don't use your cooking pots. Pots can be found in thrift stores or garage sales. (Stainless stel is okay to use, but itwon'tconttibute to the dye colors) INSTRUCTIONS 1. If you will be dyeing paper, cut it into several long strips, narrow enough to fit around your cans or cop: per rods (i, lengths of copper tubing). (You can cut the paper into shorter lengths after dyeing.) Ifyou will be dyeing fabric, you can cut it into strips if desired, or you may want to dye large pieces of fabric or even whole garments, such as scarves, T-shirts, or leggings (in which case, you will be folding them for dyeing) Prepare to make as many bundles as you like— just re- member they all have to fit into your dye pot! 2, Fill a large stainless steel bowl with water. Lay an old towel on your work surface. 3, Add scraps of metal to the pot, such as horseshoes and, rusty old nails, to enhance the colors. (The key to suc- cessful eco dyeing is lots of metal, and the rustier the better) You can now also add onion skins, red cabbage leaves, or other plant matter to the pot for extra color. 4. Ifyou are working with paper, dip a strip of paper into the water, making sure to thoroughly coat both sides. Lay the wet paper on the towel, and repeat with the restof the paper, For fabric, immerse each piece of fab- ric in the water, making sure it becomes wet through. (Any dry patches will not take up the dye.) Lay the wet fabric on the towel, and repeat with the rest of the fab- ric, Empty your bowl and set it aside for later.5, Now comes the fun part! Lay your plant matter—your leaves, petals, fruits, berries, ete—onto your wet paper or fabric. Arrange them in whatever pattern you find pleasing, Add small pieces of metal to the design for interesting effects, (The rustier the metal, the better!) If you are dyeing a garment or piece of fabric wider than your rod’s length, you will need work in halves, thirds, ‘or quarters. For example, place your leaves on the mid- dle third, then fold the bottom third over it. Add more leaves, then fold over the remaining, top third. Place ‘more leaves on the top. 6. Place a copper rod or aluminum can at one end of your paper/fabric and then tightly rol it to form a bundle. Wrap your bundle tightly with wire or twineand secure the ends, The exposed area on the outsides of the bun- dles will soak up a lot of dye, so you may want to add extra plant matter there before securing with wire or twine, which will also leave its imprint on your bundle, 7. Place your bundle in the large pot, on top of the metal seraps and loose plant matter. Continue to bundle as in steps 5 and 6 until your pot is full or you've run out of material! 8. Fill the pot with enough water to cover all the bundles. Place the lid on your pot and bring to a boil on the stovetop. Simmer for 1% hours, periodically checking that the water still covers all the bundles and topping offas needed, If any bundles are bobbing up to the sur face, poke them back under the water with a stick or dedicated dyeing spoon, 9. Tum off the stove, and leave the pot and its contents to cool overnight. The longer your bundles stay in the pot. the stronger the colors will be. find it hard to be patient and wait, but when I do, the results are definitely worth it(in eco dyeing and almost everything else!). Don't feel like waiting? Move on to the next step. Just experiment, play, and have fun,10. One by one, take your bundles out of the pot and care- fully unravel them on the towel. Take off the plant mat- ter and place it into the large stainless steel bowl. Be careful to remove all the bits and pieces. Put the rusty ‘metal bits to one side to dry. Admire the beauty of nature, immortalized on your ‘material. Note the marks and colors left by your plant ‘matter, and record your impressions of the results in a Journal along with the plants, metals, and type of pot ‘you used, as well as the boiling and steeping times. 12, Allow your paper or fabric to dry in a shady place. I drape my paper on a clothes drying rack, and I pegmy fabricon the clothesline, 13, Once dry, careful press your material with a hot iron to seal the print. Yes, you can even iron paper without burning it! Make your gorgeous eco-printed pieces of paper into wis. dom cards, use them as writing paper, or bind them into a Journal. You can sew your fabric into all manner of things, including bags, scarves, shirts, dresses, tights, and arm warmers. If you ever need to wash your fabric, hand wash with a mild soap. DISPOSING OF LEFTOVER DYE STUFFS (One you have made your fabulous eco-printed object, make ssure to save your metal rods or cans, but don't clean them! ‘The more they rust and collect leaf matter, the more beauti- fulyour future creations willbe. Alsoair dry and reuse your stained string, However, you do need to dispose of the left- over plant matter and liquid from your dye pot. Plant material~Plant material isa perfect for the compost heap. Liquid infused with scrap metal—Pour onto the compost pile Liquid with milk in it—Pour onto the compost pile. Iron pot solutions—Pour over the roots of, citrus trees. + Copper pot solutions—Dilute heavily and pour over a fallow veggie patch. RESOURCES For More Information Eco Color: Botanical Dyes for Beautiful Textiles In the writing of this article I am indebted to India Flint and her magnificent book. It’s my eco-dyeing bible. I's also the book I turn to for other methods of natural dyeing with beautiful plants. Once you have experimented with hot bundling, there are many other natural dyeing techniques you can try, including cold bundling, solar dyes, ice flow- ers, and hapa-zome printing, and all these techniques can be found in India Flint’s book. Wild Color: The Complete Guide to Making and Using Natural Dyes Wild Color is also an excellent book for learning natural dyeing, It covers all aspects ofthe process and includes a wonderful section with pictures of major dye plants and the colors they produce in various dye baths. www.pfaforg ‘The Plants fora Future website has a listing of useful plants for dyeing. Fabric Suppliers Tuy my silk scarf blanks from Elsegood Fabrics (www.else ‘good.com.au) and my organic cotton blanks for scarves, tea towels, and aprons from the Organic Textile Company (rwworganiccotton.bie/store).