MOJI)JABCKMM ~ .-..-.....

11 0 hHhII1
Moldavian National Costume

KOCT M

HAUJ10HAJIbHbIVI KOCTIOMIIAMHTHJ1K HAPO,llHOrO TBOP~ECTBA NATIONAL COSTUME AS A FOLK ART RECORD

M OJI)J,ABCKI1I1 KOCTIOM
ABTOP TeKCTa

HAU,l10HAJIhHhIl1
Moldavian National Costume
J1 COCTaBJ1TeJIh

B. C. 3EJIEHQYK

KJ1WJ1HeB 113~aTeJIbCTBO «TJ1MnYJI»

1985

85.12(2M) 3-48

Pel.\eH3eHT

M. T. HMRYJIMU3,
KaH~H~aT HCTOpHQeCKHX HayK

Tlepeaon
C pycc rcoro .H3hlKa ua

10. M BEPBMUKoro

aHrJIHt1cKHi1

3eJIeH'IYK

3-48

MOJI~aBCKJ1M Hal..\J10HaJIbHbIM KOCTIOM-Moidavian National Costume / ABT. TeKCTa J1 COCT. B. C. 3eJIeHqyK; IIep. C pyc. Ha aHrJI . .H3. 10. M. Bep6J1l..\KJ1H.KJ1WJ1HeB: TJ1MnYJI, 1984.-143 C., J1JI.- TeKcT rra pyc. J1 aHrJI . .H3.
B QJOTOKHI1r£' Hitl\J10HCl.nhH;:t,H

B. C.

tuee

pa:~BJ1TJ1e

M3-repJtl<1JlbJloi1 OC-1I0fillh1P :·n:lflhl

oncacrta «y.m.rypr-r

paCCM;:np"RcIPTeH 1.1

KaK

Hn.nl'H).1(', TBOp'-leCTBa

xynoxcec-r-ncnnoro
paaJH1Tl1H

o-r-pancuronapona.
1:'1"0

TJOKH::JbIR1iIOT("H nOKpOH

l-1("TOPI1'(('(_,IHl)"O

HapOl{1I01'O

I{OerIOM<l,

11 OpUaMf'HTI1Kl1.

4904000000-27 3 M753(12)-85 6-84

(0
J1atlaTl'.lIh("TBO

85.12(2M)
"TMMIlY.JI». 1~JH5

B HCTOPHH KyJlbTYPbl KamAOrO napona 3Ha-IHTeJlbHOe MeCTO npnnanneaorr HaQHOHaJlbHOMY KOCTIOMy. TpaAHQHoHHaH oAemAa C03AaBaJlaCb MHOrHMH nOKOJleHHHMH. Ee OCHOBHble -IepTbI CKJlaAbIBaJlHCb B 3aBHCHMOCTH OT HCTOpH'IeCKHX TpaAHQHH, THna X03HHCTBa, KJlHMaTH'IeCKHX YCJlOBHH,B HeH nammr o-rpancemre 3THH'IeCKHe OC06eHHOCTH H KyJlbTYPHbIe CBH3H C APyrHMH HapOAaMH, BOnJlOTHJlHCb Jly'lllIHe AOCTHmeHHH HapOAHbIX MacTepOB. HaQHOHaJlbHblH KOCTIOMyme He HBJlHeTCH nOBceAHeBHbIM. OH COXpaHHJlCH KaK OC06blH BHA OAemAbI AJIH npa3AHH'IHbIX llIeCTBHH, f}>ecTHBaJleH, nomen COCTaBHOH'IaCTblO B pHTyaJlbl HOBbIX COBeTCKHX npa3AHHKOB H 06pHAOB.
place in the history of every people belongs to national costume. Traditional vestiture has been created by many generations. Its main traits have been taking shape according to historical traditions, type of economy, climatic conditions, it reveberated the ethnic peculiarities and cultural bonds with other peoples, the best achievements of folk masters. National costume is no more serving as everyday clothes. It has preserved as a special kind of dress for gala processions, festivals, has formed a constituent part of rituals of new Soviet holidays and rites. A significant

113

I1CTOPI1I1 PA3BI1TI1JI KOCTIOMA

From the History of Costume Development
KOCTIOM ~peBHero nepMo~a Oziexcna 3nOXM cpe~HMX BeKOB KOCTIOM ropO~CKoro Hace~eHMR Costume of the Ancient

Period

Garments of the Middle Ages Epoch The Costume of the Townspeople

l:.JTOTaKOe Ha~J10HaJIbHbIM KOMnJIeKC nepJ10,LI 3nOXJ1 eTCH pO,LIHOro Tpa,LIJ1~OHHOM

KOC-

TlOM? IIo,LI 3TJ1M 06b1qHO nOHJ1MalOT KpeCTbHHCKOM O,LIem,LIbI, CJIOmJ1BlllJ1MCH B aaaepurernra J1 nepeXO,LIa paC~BeTOM J1CKYCCTBa K ¢eO,LIaJIbHOM KanJ1TanJ1CepaayHa,LIOMalliHero J1 YCToi1:QJ1KOCTlOanoJ1JIJ1 napo-

TJ1qeCKOM, 'KOTOPbIM KpeCTbHHCKoro BOCTblO ¢OPM

xaparer

np0J13BO,LICTBa,

KpeCTbHHCKOM O,LIem3JIeMeHTbI B pa3JIJ1QHble nOQBe y ,LIpyrJ1X

,LIbI. OT,LIeJIbHble Ma, B03HJ1KlllJ1e XJ1 Ha

Ha~J10HaJIbHOM

3aJ1MCTBOBaHHble

,LIOB. C TeQeHJ1eM BpeMeHJ1 HJ1JlJ1Cb J1 06pa30BaJIJ1 HbIM TJ1n O,LIem,LIbI, TOJIbKO

06'be,LIJ1-

cBoe06pa3-

xapaicrepnr-ni

,LIJIH ,LIaHHOM 3THJ1QeCKoi1: CO~J1aJIbHO-3KOHOMJ1C pa3BJ1TJ1eM KanJ1TanOBJIJ1HnJ1 na 6bIT xpec-r

06~HOCTJ1. B

QeCKJ1e J13MeHeHJ1H, HacTynJ1BUlJ1e

XIX

aexe

JIJ13Ma,

cyruecr-eemro

3aMKHYTbIM HOMY

smrcreoir

ce-

2
yxpauremrn, npn paCKOTIKaX aa TeppHTop.1>I MOJIAaBHH; B_: VI 1 - 6poH30BaH qm6YJIa(c. 'I'pefiyxeerrsr Opreencxoro panoaa): 2 - cepefiprmarr cepura (c. BaJII.(aTa KpHYJIHHCKOro paaona)
J{peBHeCJIaBHHCKl1e Ha:i1,ll,eflHbI€

MbJ1 J1 cnoc06CTBOBaJIJ1 HOM O,LIem,LIbl.

nOCTeneH-

J1CQe3HOBeHJ11O Tpa,LIJ1~J10HJ1 3THOrpa¢J1KOCTlOMe

Jl n-repa-r yprn.re
JIeHJ1e JIee 0

QeCKJ1e J1CTOQHJ1KJ1 ,LIalOT npe,LICTaBMOJI,LIaBCKOM

XVIII-XIX
paHHJ1X

BeKOB, a 06 O,LIem,LIe60nepJ10,LIOB MOmHO

cy-

Early Slavic adornments discovered during excavations at the Moldavian terrain.

,LIWfb no apxeOJIOrJ1QeCKJ1M HaXO,LI6th century: KaM J1 np0J13Be,LIeHJ1HM J1306pa3J1- 1- bronze fibul~ (Trebuzh.eny village, Orgeyev District); 2- sliver ear--r-rng (Baltsata viltage, TenbHoro J1CKYCCTBa. Kriulyany District)

What does a national costume imply? By this we usually understand a complex of traditional peasants' clothes formed through the late feudal and transition capitalist periods, when peasants' household production was in progress, folk art and peasants' clothes acquired permanent shape. In the course of time, individual costume's elements, which came into being in different epochs on the national basis or had been borrowed from other nations, were amalgamated into a single whole and formed a peculiar type of garments, characteristic only of a certain ethnic community. Socio-economicchanges, ensuing in the 19th century the development of capitalism, brought about new features in the closed mode of life of peasants' family and contributed to a gradual disappearance of traditional garments. Literary and ethnographic sources give an idea of the Moldavian costume of the 18th-19th centuries while of the vestiture of the more early periods one can judge by the archaeological finds and the works of imitative arts. COSTUME OF THE ANCIENT PERIOD Cloth patterns, leather wares.buttons, fasteners, adornments found during archaeological excavations and preserved now in museums, help the restoration of the costume of

.n;peBHMe yxpauresma 1 - ,lIpeBHec.'laB.IIHCKMe cepefipmnsre cepern. VI B. (c. C'rapaa Capa-ra 4>aJIelllTCKOro paaorra): 2 - npeaaepyccxnn cepe6p.llHhlfi 6paCJIeT XII B. (c. TOnaJIhI KOToBcKoro paaona O,lleccKofi 06JIaCTM); 3 - MOJI,lIaBCKoe cepefipaaoe BMCO'lHOe KOJIb~O XV B. (c. IIIenTe6aHh Psnmeancxoro panoaa); 4, 5 - MOJI,n;aBCKJ1e nyronnua 11 cepura XVI B. (c. BaJI~aTa KpMYJI.HHCKOrOpairona)

Ancient adornments: Early Slavic silver ear-rings. 6th century (Star aya Sarata village, Faleshty District); 2- Early Russian silver bracelet. 12th century (Topaly village, Kotovsky District of Odessa Region); 3- Moldavian silver temple ring. 15th century (Shepteban village, Ryshkany District); 4, 5- Moldavian button and ear-ring. 16th century (Baltsata village, Kriulyany District) 1-

the ancient period. One cannot assert the existence of a complete succession among the vestiture of peoples, which populated the territory of Moldavia in the ancient period, but some details of the costume, peculiarities of the cut, decoration devices, being handed down through the centuries from generation to generation, formed a constituent part of Moldavian national garments. The origin of some particular types of garments can be traced back to the traditions of antiquity, to the Thracian, Slavic cultures, as well as the civilizations continuously contacted by the Moldavians ancestors in the course of their formation. The East-Romance nations borrowed some of distinctive features of their clothes from the Northern ThracoDacians,Getae, Carpians, Bessae. There are no clothes or leathers among the archaeological finds referring to the period of Thracian culture but metalline garb constituents and beautifications are extant. Getian adornments of the 4th and the 3rd centuries B. C.gold and silver neckpieces, ear-rings with droppers, decorated with grain-gold, blue glass-beads, silver and gold bracelets, fibulae (fasteners), found at the sites of ancient fortified towns by the villages of Mateutsy and Poyana of Rezina District and Gansk of Kutuzovo District are notable for a high artistic level. Several costume elements have survived from the early centuries A. D. The Moldavian

,llPEBHErO IIEPI10,lJ;A
HaM,n;eHHble JIOrH'-IeCKJ1X IIJ;J1eCH HblHe TKaHeM, BJ1~bl, MoralOT TlOMa B BO BpeMH MY3eHX apXE'O-

KOCTIOM

CH MeTaJlJlW-lPCKHe J1 YKpameHHH. TBeHHblM zto HallIeM pHHble cepbrH yponaera

'-IaCTH o,n;e:IKp;bI xyzroacecOTJlJ1LfaIOTCH

BbiCOKHM

reTCKJ1€ YKpallleHHH

IV- III BeKOB

J1cepe6(06pYLfH), YKpaUIE'H0POH:30Bble (3aCT€:lKKJ1), y C€JI P€3J1HCKOrO, paMoHoB. KOCTIOBeKOB

paCKOnOK

J1 XpaHH06pa3I(hI [10KOC-

apr.r -

30JlOTble rpMBHbl

m€MHblE' C

KO:IKaHble

J13,n;eJlHH, nyro-

no,n;BeCKaMH, H

3aCTe:IKKJ1, YKpaUIeHHH BOCC03,n;aTb IWTaJlH rrpeanero 0 ncpnona. napozron,

msre
6yCbI,

aepsu.io,

CJ1HHl' CTeKJlHHHbl€

copefipnm-re
cpH6YJlbI Ha H TIoHHa

HeJIb3H HaC€-

6paCJI€Tbl. HaM,n;eHHbl€

rOBOpJ1Tb HOCTH B

£1o.ilHoM npE'eMCTBeH-

ropo,n;Hlllax

ozreaczte

JIHBWJ1X TeppJ1TOpHIO MOJI,n;aBHH B ,n;peBHJ1M nepncn, '-ITO HO HeCOMHE'HHO, ,n;eTaJlJ1 KOCTIOMa, [1pJ1eMbI YKna £1pOTH-

Ma'reym.i I'arrcx

KYTY30BcKoro 3JIeM€HTbI C

OT,n;eJlbHbIC' Ma cOXpaHHJlHCb Ham€M

ornerrsmsre

rreprn-rx

oc06eHHOCTJ1 nOKpOH, paWeHJ1H, KOJleHJ1e,

epi,r.

113 H3bIKa B

ceBepHbIX If:NyxapaK-

nepe,n;aBaHCb BOlllJIJ1

cppaKI1MI(E'B Jl3 H noaca TepHble BaJIHCb -

M(>JI,n;aBCKHM H3blK 11la£1KH-

meHJ1J1 BeKOB J13 nOKOJIeHJ1H B noCOCTaBHOM

BOWJlI1 Ha3BaHHH

6pbly.,UpyrHc

'-IaCTbIO B MOJI,n;aBCKYIO Hapo,n;HYIO

'-IaCTM KOCTlOMa cpOpMHPOB 60Jle€ [103,n;HI1M rteprrort. HB.nHMOB ,U06B PHMe, HaweM I1CTO'-IHHKOM ,n;JlH J13yo,n;€:IK,n; a n

oztexcrry.
TI pOJ1CXO:IK,n;eHJ1e ~J1HM aHTJ1'-IHOCTJ1, K OT,n;eJlbHbIX TJ1nOB O,n;€:IK,n;bl BOCXO,n;J1T Tpa,n;HK xy.rnzrype cppaKHM~eB, rJ1X naponee, CJIaBHH, a TaK:lKe B TecHblP

ll,eHHbIM

'-IeHJ1H KOCTIOMa rPTll-,n;aKoB lOTCH H306pameHJ1H HyM€HT€ pyzixce J1 KOJIOHHe KO J13 A,n;aMKJlHCCH

zrpyCBH-

C KOTOPblMJ1 npe,n;KJ1

MOJI,n;aBaH BCTynaJIH B oneaczte

OTHOCHll\HXCH

Tpaana II aexy

3H tr a npOTH:lKeHHH CBoeM HCTOpHH. BOCTO'-IHO-pOMaHCKJ1X naponoa cOXpaHHJlHCb -

apt.r
B

J1 B03,n;BJ1rHYTbIX PJ1MJlHH Ha,n; re-ro-zraxoe

B '-IeCTb [10MO:IKIIO paa-

6e,n;bI

reTo-,n;aKaMH.

nexo-ropere
KOCTIOMa ce,n;aKOB, reapxeo-

ozieacne

xapax'repm.re '-I€PTbl aepsrsrx cppaKJ1M~€B

TOB, tcaprioa. 6eccoB. JIOrH'-IeCKHX n axonox

JIH'-II1Tb HaJlbHOrO B

£1O'-ITJ1 ace KOCTlOMa.

xapaicrepm-re
Ha 3THX napy-

oc06eHHOC'I'H

MOJI,n;aBCKoru uarra oJ1306pa:IK€Hhl

Cpezm

HeT TKaHeM J1

MHTHJ1KaX Mym'-IHHbI KOHyco06pa3HblX

KO:IKaHbIX H3,n;eJlHM, HO BCTpe'-Icll{)T-

nrarncax.

language adopted from the ~?rth-Thracian language the names for a fur cap (kachulc) and a be!t (bTl,!")'. Other definitrve parts of the costume were taking shape in a later period. Ha_bltdeplctlOn.son the monument from Adamclissi in Dobrudzha and Trajan's Column in Rome, datmg from the 2nd century A. D. and reared in honour of the victory of t~e Romans over the Geto-Dacians, present a valuable source for a study of the Geto-Da~l1an garb. One can make out almost all peculiarities of the Moldavian national costume m. the clothes of Geto-Dacians. Men are portrayed in coniform fur caps, belted shirts ~tth ~arved neckbands, pantaloons with cross-cut creases, resembling traditional MoldaVI an ltsar. W0f!1en'sdress ofCeto-Dacians consisted of a chemise with rounded gathered collar and ka!rmtsa-ty~e waist habit. At the same time, they wore loose-fitting tunic-like vestme~ts widespread m Rome and Roman provinces. The Latin language imparted to Moldavtan some denominations ?f the folk clothes - camasha (camise, chemise), sarica (f.urcap~).How~v~r,the Roman mfluence, which has left significant traces in the Moldavran national spir-itual culture, is almost undetectable in the Moldavian national costume I~~ould be explained by the fact, that Roman vestitur . . ~htlOnsof mild climate of the Apenninian eninsula e, which took ~hape under the conin the Northern regions of the Balkans Pth ' was.not practised on a large scale WI a severe chmate.

10

6axax WTaHaX KaMI1, OHHbIe

C Bblpe3HbIM C

BOPOTOM, rreY3KJ1X

XO,n;KJ1.IIpJ1 BHHCKoro

pacxorrxax

paHHeCJIace.na Tpe6bIJI B€pationa

peXBa'IeHHbIX

nOHCOM, B nOnepe'IHhIMJ1

nOCeJIeHI1H y

CKJJa,n;- 6YJKeHhI Tpa,n;I1~I1fKeH-

Opreencxoro

HanOMJ1HalOIU;J1X

HaM,n;eH OTHOCHIU;J1MCH K KaM 6POH30BhIM HyThlMI1 I'll

VI-VII

M()JJ,n;aBCKl1e Utj,apb. C KpyrJIhIM

aMYJIeT-no,n;BeCKa, C coraMYJIeTe C BblpeHa

CKaH ozrexcna 113 pyfia xn

reTO-,n;aKOB COCTOHJIa C60p'IaTbIM

11306paJKalOU~J1M MyJK'Il1Hy pYKaMJ1.

BOPOTOM 11 nOHCHOM O,n;eJK,UbI J1na T 1WTpU1itj,3.

MOJKHOpa3JI11'Il1Tb HCKOTopbIe xaco,n;eJK,n;bI KaqnaH 30M na rpy,n;J1 11canorn HOCKaMJ1. 113 BJ13aHTJ1MCKJ1X XPOHJ1K 113BeCTHO, 'ITO XOJI"~OBbIe cancr-a, C OCTPbIMJ1

Hapnny

C 3TJ1M OHI1 HOB PJ1113

CJ1JII1cB060,n;Hble Me

TYHJ1K006pa3HhI€

ozte JK,n; , pacnpOCrpaHeHHbI€ hI JIaTJ1HCKOrO H3bIKa BOWJII1 (pyfiaxa), xa).

11 PJ1MCKJ1X npOBI1H~I1HX.

X-

B MOv'I,n;aBCKI1M HaI1MeHOBaHJ1H 'K3MaWa BJII1HHI1H, KyJIbTyKOCTIOMe. TeM, 'ITO

XI

BeKOB

CJIaBHHe pyfiaxu KOJKaJIanTJ1.

nexo'ropere caputca

HOCJ1JIJ1 6eJIhI€ 116eJIble Hble

napormorr

o,n;eJK,n;bI -

uraponap sr,

(MeXOBaH HaKI1,n;-

TYCPJII1 I1JII1 JIbIKOBble na

O,n;HaKO pOMaHCKl1e

fKeHlliJ1HbI TOK, a ua KJ1.

HOCJ1JIJ1 normoacamn.re rOJIOBe rtrranor-ax KOJKaHbIe 6aWMa-

OCTaBJ1BIIIW' pi', 3'1'0 B nOYTJ1 He

3Ha'Il1TeJIbHbIM

CJIe,n; ,n;JII1HHble pyfiaxn,

B MOJI,n;aBCKOMnaporraoir MOJI,n;aBCKOM napomror-r MOJKHO 06'hHCHI1Tb ozrexcrta, pJ1MCKaH

npOCJIeJKI1BalOTCH B

3HaTJ1 'IeM

pacrrpoc-rpane-raarra
o,n;eJK,n;bI
uaxomor 6bIJIJ1 cpJ16yJI, y CBJ1,n;eTeJIbCTBYIOT 3aCTerJ1BaJIJ1

BJ1,n;OM BepXHeM I1JIaIU;J1, 0

CJIOJKJ1BWaHCH MHOrO'Il1CJIeHHble KJII1MaTa He B ceC fio.n ee KOTOPbIMJ1 I1JIall~

YCJIOBJ1HX MHrKoro

AnneHI1HCKoro BepHbIX CypOBbIM paiionax

nOJIYOCTpOBa, EaJIKaH

nOJIY'IJ1JIa pacnpcc'rpauemca KJII1MaTOM. aercax

npaaoro rtnexa. Y CJIaBHH 6bIJIO

BbICOKO paa-

BJ1TO lOBeJIJ1pHOe J1CKYCCTBO. KeHf IU;J1HbI BnJIeTaJIJ1 B BOJIOCH BJ1CO'lHble KOJIb~a, na

B VI-XII

TeppJ1TOpJ11O

r-pyznr

HOCI1JII1 113 Me6bIJIl1

MOJIl\aBI111 HaCeJIHJIJ1CJIaBHHe. HapH,n;y C paHHeCJIaBHHCKJ1MJ1 3,n;eCb OTKpbIThI TaKJKe IOJKHO-CJIaBHHCKJ1e J1 ,n;peBHepycCKJ1€ naMHTHJ1KJ1. CJIaBHH

CTeKJIHHHble 30JIOTbIX ,n;aJIbOHOB; Oc06eHHO HhI -

6yCbI,

OJKepeJIbH

J1JIJ1 cepe6pHHbIX

pacnpccr-paaam.r

TaKJKe nepCTHI1, cept.r-n, weMHble 06PY'II1.

6paCJIeTbi. KOTOPbH'

Hexorop sre CBe,n;eHJ1H 06 o,n;eJK,n;e zrator apxeoJIOrJ1'IeCKJ1e tra-

BbICOKO l.\€HJ1JII1Cb rpJ1B-

11

In the 6th through 12th centuries the Moldavian terrain was inhabited by the Slavs. South-Slavic and Old Russian antiquities were discovered here besides the Early Slavic ones. While excavating the Early Slavic settlement near the village of Trebuzheny, the Orgeyev District, there was found a bronze periapt-pendant, dating from the 6th or the 7th centuries, figuring a man with his arms bent. One can distinguish several constituents of the vestiture of the periapt - a caftan (long tunic with waistgirdle) with a neckline on the chest and high boots with tapered toes. It is on record from Byzantine chronicles of the 10th-11th centuries that the Slavs were wearing white cloth camises and white sharovary (wide trousers with leg bottoms drawn together with a cord or elastic), high boots, leather shoes, or bast shoes. Women wore long girdled chemises (shifts), their heads covered with kerchiefs, and leather brogues on their feet. Cloaks were widely used by persons of rank as upper garments, which is evident by numerous discoveries of fibulae, a cloak was fastened with at the right shoulder. Slavs had highly developed goldsmithery. Women plaited temple-rings into the hair, there were widely spread glass beads, necklaces of gold and silver lockets on the breasts, and had finger-rings, ear-rings and bracelets. Neckpieces (neck-hoops) were especially

CJIYJKJ1JU1KaK

JKeHCKJ1M ytcparrre-

HJ1eM, TaK J13HaKOM OTJIJ1'lJ1HBOeHHbIX npe,n;BO,lJ;11TeJIeH J1nJIeMeHHbIX BOJK,n;eH. HeKOTOpbIe HeCJIaBHHCKOH KJ1e lO6KJ1, qaCTeH: pa3HbIX 3JIeMeHTbI O,n;eJK,n;bI -

zrpenJKeHC-

COCTOHBWJ1e 113
I1

ziayx

nepernreit
TJ100B;

3a,n;HeH. CBa-

,n;e6HbIe JKeHCKJ1e rOJIOBHbIe KOJKaHbre

yfiopra
OOHCa

C MeTaJIJIJ1'leCKJ1Ml1 HaKJIa,n;KaMJ1BOWJIJ1 B MOJI,n;aBCKJ1HHa~[I[()HaJIbHbIH KOCTlOM. OH Bnl1TaJI TaKJKe HeKOTOpbIe TepHble TOpbre JIJ1K. CJIaBHHCKOe 3J1JIOCb TaKJKe 'laCTeH HJ1HX KaK BJIJ1HHJ1e

xapax,n;JIH,n;peBHepYCCKOH, yxpaKOMnOHeHTbI, O,n;eJK,n;bI, KOHOBbIH 06BJIJ1HHl1eM MOJI,n;aBCKOH npJ106peJII1

J1HCKOH, 60JIrapCKOH

nozt

KyJIbTYPbI

na

TepMJ1HOJIOrJ111 B TaKJ1X Ha3Ba-

KOCTlOMa,

U3M€lie,

rurpr , cYMali, onUli'Lb, 6eplieBu'L, noaJl,e, aJl,'rUlinpyr-n x. napoTlOpKCKJ1X TaKJKe

'It;:)

11 aerco'rop srx I1pe6bIBaHJ1e

,n;OB n a B

TeppJ1TOpJ1J1 nexax

MOJI,n;aBJ1J1 OCTaBJ1JIO o,n;eJKnOKpoe nanMOJI,n;aBCKJ1e MY3bIKaHTbI

IX-XIII

OTOe'laTOK na KpecTbHHcKOH ,n;e3TO CKa3aJIOCb n a ee xaparcrep. J1 TepMJ1HOJIOrl1J1. qacTb HOCI1T TlOPKCKI1H pl1Mep,

xv

B.

TepMI1HOB

Moldavian

musicians.

15th century

6ypliY3, MapaM;::J,UWJI,Bapb, narupc», TepJl,U'K, 6acMa.

expensive kind of decoration, serving not only as women's adornments. but as a sign of rank for war-lords and tribal chiefs, too. Some of the elements of the ancient Slavic vestiture - women's skirts, consisting of two pieces- a front and a rear, types of bridal head-dresses, as well as such adornments - bracelets, leather belts with a metal appliqud - have passed into the Moldavian national costume. It imbibed some of the components characteristic of the Old Russian, Ukrainian, Bulgarian attire which under the influence of Moldavian culture had assumed a new aspect. The Slavic influence is also reverberated in the terminology of the outfit pieces, in such names as port, suman, opinchi, izmene, bernevich, peale, altintsa and some other ones. Abidance of the Turkic peoples on the territory of Moldavia in the 9th through 12th centuries had also left its impress on the peasants' clothes - it affected the fashion and terminology of the garments, a part of them being in character with the Turkic ones, for example, burnuz, marama, shalvari, papuchi, terltk, basma.

12

MOJI,lJ;aBCKJ1e B O,lJ;em,lJ;aX

ropoacane
BJ13aHTJ1:HCKOrO nOKpOJI

XV

B.

Moldavian townspeople in Byzantine garments.

15th century

13

GARMENTS OF THE

MIDDLE AGES EPOCH

In the period of the formation of the Moldavian nationality in the 12th through the 14th centuries, its material and spiritual culture was taking shape. The Moldavian vestiture showed more and more original traits which arose under the impetus of the local socio-economic conditions, and the specific national aspect, essentially differing the Moldavian traditional costume from the garments of the neighbouring peoples, was gradually becoming a habitude. In spite of the fact that several elements arose in earlier periods, it is only beginning from the 14th century that we have authentic information on record about the main constituents of the costume, the peculiarities of its cut, adornments, as well as terminology, and from this time on we can call the national Moldavian costume an established one. In that epoch the main components of the folk garb were shaped: for women - a kimono-sleeved chemise or a tunic-like One, seamless waist habit (katrintsa, fota), towelled head-rails (mamma), and head-dresses with a hard base, topped with an overlay (kyrpa,

O.D:Em.D:A 3IIOXJ1 CPE.D:HJ1X BEKOB B

aexax aJIbHa.H nepnon CPOpMJ1pOBaHJ1.H MOJIB ee ~aBCKOM HapO~HOCTJ1 11 zryxonnaa

XII-XIV
MaTepJ1ace non nOCTexy.rrs-rypa.

CKJIa~bIBaJIaCb MOJI~aBCKOM qepTbI,

B
fiorn.uie Hble

o~eJK~e

npO.HBJI.HJH1Cb caM06bITB03HJ1KaBWJ1e COU;J1aJIbHO-

BJIJ1.HHJ1eM MeCTHbIX

3KOHOMJ1qeCKJ1X YCJIOBJ1M, QeCKJ1MHau;J10HaJIbHbIM TOPbIM HbIM ~OB. HeCMOTp.H Hble 3JleMeHTbl na

IleHHO CKJIa~blBa:JIC.H TOT CIleu;J1cpJ106JIJ1K, KOMOJI~aBCKJ1M -Tpa~I1U;110HCOCe~HJ1X uapo-

KOCTlOM CYIlJ,eCTBeHHO OTJIM-

QaJIC.H OT O~eJK~bI

TO, QTO OT~eJIbTOJIbKO HaQJ1Ha.H rJIaBHbIX QaCT.HX IlOKPO.H,

B03HJ1KJlJ1 B 60Jlee

paHHJ1e IlepJ10~bI, C XIV nexa Hble ~aHHble 0

nO.HBJI.HlOTC.H ~ocToBepoc06eHHOCT.HX a TaKJKe

xocrtoraa,

YKpaWeHJ1M,

TepMJ1HOJIOBr.nuwraa
YKpameHl1.R «IIeJIeH8 TKaHb ,AJIH -

rJ1J1.TOJIbKO C aror-o BpeMeHJ1 MOJKHO rOBOpJ1Tb 0 CJIOJKJ1BllieMC.HMOJI~aBCKOM HaU;J10HaJIbHOM KOCTlOMe.

CT€Hbl

3Ty

3IlOXY

CCPOpMJ1pOBaJIJ1Cb napoznroir py6axa J1JIJ1

xv

EJIeHbI

BOJlOWaHttJ.1».

B. (fOCYAapCTBeHHblH

OCHOBHble KOMIlOHeHTbI O~eJK~bI: C U;eJIbHOKpOeHbIM

J1CTopJ-p:leCKJ1H MyaeH.. Mocxuaj

~JI.H JKeHIlJ,J1H-

pYKaBOM

TYHJ1K006pa3Horo

IlOKPO.H, H€CWJ1-

Ta.H IlO.HCHa.H o~eJK~a

(KaTpU1i1f3,
IlOJIOTeH-

ifiOT3),

rOJIOBHble

y60PbI

Embroidered fabric for decorating wall"Shroud of Elena Voloshanka", 15th century (The State History Museum. Moscow)

kaitsa), while for men - tunic-like camise with a straight cutting at the chest, fur waist-coat (bonditsa, peptar), white pantaloons (itsar). The Moldavian national vestiture was distinguishable for such characteristic features as a cut fitting tight around the waist, white colour of cloth, carved neck with a longitudinal cutting, availability of a girdle. The following vestiture, footwear and adornment denominations were mentioned in diplomata of Moldavian sovereigns and other documents of the 15th through the 17th centuries: kozhok, marama, kontesh, shuba, suman, opinchi, chubote, chercheZ, ineZ and other ones.

14

«DeJIE'Ha

EJIE'HbI

BO.nOIllaHKIII»_

JJ;E'TaJIb

..Shroud

of EIPna Voloshanka".

Detail

Garment collections, preserved in the State Ethnographical Museum of the Peoples of the USSR in Leningrad and the Armoury in Moscow present a valuable source for study of the costume history. Winding sheets, scarves, shrouds, shrouds of Christ, and embroideries, presented there, give an idea of the attire of the Moldavian nobility and the townspeople in the 15th through the 17th centuries. Iconographic and fresco portrayals, as well as bookminiatures are of great importance for the restoration of general aspects of the clothes of the early period. Mural painting of the 16th century is represented especially wide in the churches of the cloisters Voronets, Moldovitsa, Suchava, in the churches of Humor, Probota, and also in the Assumption Church in Kaushany, dating back to the 18th century. On the frescoes of Voronets monastery one can see boyars' upper garments with cuttings instead of sleeves, red and yellow woollen girdles, kushma-shaped fur caps. Figures of princesses, wearing marama head-dresses turn up on the Moldavian icons of the 16th-17th centuries. Wall-painting of the Assumption Church in Kaushany with portrayed patrons-customers, who financed the construction of the church, is an important record of monumental painting in Moldavia of the late 17th and the early 18th centuries. They are clad in boyars'

16

'laTo06pa3Horo xy a tra HaJl

TJ1na

(JI.WpaM3)

J1 C

,UJIH 60JIbWOe

BOCCTaHOBJICHJ1H ofimero nepnona 3Ha'lCHJ1t:' l1MeIOT l1KOHOCPPCCKOBbICJ1306paWJ1POKO ripen-

TBepJJ:OMOCHOBOM,nOKpbITOM CBCpnOKpblBaJIOM ,n;JIH MYJK'l[l[H py6axa

06JIJ1Ka o,n;eJK,n;b1 pamrero rpacpJ1'leCKJ1c. TIOpbI. XVI

(Kbtpn3,

vxiuu»),
pa3pC30M

-/rYHJ1KOo6pa36C3pYKaBKa y:mHP 6C.nbIP

C npHMblM

JKCHHH. a TaKJKe KHl1JKHbIC MJ1HJ1aOC06CHHO CTaBJICHa rppecxonaa MOJIJJ:oBJ1~a, XYMOP, JKl1BOnJ1Cb MOHacTblpeM

rpYJJ:J1, MeXOBaH

(601ioulj,.J, nenTap), 1lI1;aHbI (Ulj,apb).

OTJIH'laJIaCb MJ1 'lepTaMJ1 6eJIbIM pOT 'l[l[e B XV-XVII C nne'r TaKHMH KaK TKaHH,

BCKa B ueprcnax

MOJIJJ:aBCKaH Hapo,n;HaH o,n;CJKJJ:a BOpOHC~, xapax-repn B

sr-

uepxnax nax,

Cyxaea, B Ilpotio-ra, a TaKB Kaywanexy. MO-

KpOM

TaJIJ1IO, HaJI[I[-

JKe B IJ,PPKBl1 YcneH[I[H Ha cppccKax

BblPC3HOM BO-

OTHOCHllJCMCH K XVIII

npHMbIM r-parao-r ax

pa3pC30M,

Boponeuxor-o

norrca. MOJI,n;aBCKJ1X roc,n;OKYMCHTax Ta-

nac-r-srpa
PYKaBoB,

Bl1,n;HbI 60HPCKJ1C BCpXBMCCTO

HHC o,n;eJKJJ:bI npOpe3HMJ1 C

norrapeit

[I[ zipyr-nx

icpacm-n-

J1 JKeJITble IIIepTJ1na KyWrOpOJKaH. Ha XVI-XVII yfiope l1306paJKeHJ1Jl

BeKOB ynoMHHalOTCH KaK

CTHHbIC noaca.

uiamcn

KJ1C Ha[l[MCHOBaHJ1H O,n;CJK,n;bi. 6y0 BJ1 J1 YKpalIleH[I[M

M3,

rOJIOBHble y60PbI

pcun», K01iT3W, onU1i'L1" 'Ly6oTe, ztpyr ne.

ll,CHHbIMJ1 113Y'leHHH

KOJICOK, Mawy63, CYMaJi, 'Lep'LeJL, U1ieJL [I[ JJ:JIH

HB-

MOJI,n;aBCKJ1X J1KOHaX BeKOB BCTpe'laIOTCH KHHr[l[Hb B rOJIOBHOM

Ma,n;JIH

pcun».
3Ha'lHTCJIbHbIM J13Y'leHJ1H MaTCpJ1aJI MOJI,n;aBCKoro XVIIKOCTIOMa JKJ1BOnl1Cb aaxana ~(,PKBJ1 rlle H306-

J1CTO'lHJ1KaM[I[

J1CTOpHJ1 KOCTIOMa

JIHIOTCH KOJIJICKqJ1H O,n;CJK,n;bI. pax HHll~H(,CH B focy,n;apCTBCHHOM aee 3THorpaq)J1[1[ naportoa My-

zraer
XVIII

MOHYMCHTaJIbHaJl BCKa B pOCnJ1Cb

M()JIJJ:aBHl1 KOHqa

CCCP B Jl enmn pane H I'ocyziapc-reeuuof 0pYJKeMHOM na.na-re B MOCKBe. Haxonaumeca TaM rrorpefiarn.m-re
nOKpbIBaJIa, nJIalI~aHH~bI Cn[l[TpaX[l[JIJ1, ne.neu sr. J1 BbIUll1BKl1 06 ,n;aIOT MOJIB XV-

Y crreurra

Kayrrranax,

paxcem.r noprper sr
3aKa3<{HKOB, B 60HpCKJ1e

nOKpOBJ1TCJIeMOHl1 o,n;eThI OC06CHliO HaKl1,n;-

cpJ1HaHCJ1pOBaBlliHx O,n;CJK,n;bI,

CTPOl1TCJIbCTBO~epKBH. pen serpno y60PbI,

npc,n;cTaBJICHJ1C XVII aexax.

o,n;CJK,n;e

BJ1,n;HbIBepXHHe

,n;aBcKoM 3HaTJ1 J1 rOpOJKaH

KJ1 nJiallJCBJ1,n;Horo TJ1na, npJ1'leCKH.

rurroam.re

17

attires and cloak-like over-mantles, and their head-gears and hair-cuts are viewable in strong relief. Miniatures and engravings of manuscript books and old-printing books of the 15th18th centuries are poorer in garb depictions. Thus, in a miniature of the Gospel (1555) (first four books of the New Testament) the evangelist Luke is represented in a peasants' dress with a carved surnan-type neckband; St. George is depicted in the miniature of the book "Cazania" by Varlaam (1643) in a warrior's outfit with a cloak, a girdled caftan and high boots on. However, the antique graphic and some written sources - diplomata and state papers reflected predominantly feudals' and rich townsfolks' vestiture, while the peasants' one - only to the extent where its elements had preserved in the garb of the propertied classes, i. e. fur caps, belts, etc. Besides, the costumes on the icons were often depicted according to the adopted Byzantian canons, that is why, for the learning of the 17th and 18th centuries garments, annalistic sources, as well as state-papers of that period, acquire great significance. The earliest attempts of characterization of the Moldavian clothes were made by the medieval authors N. Olahus and M. Costin. Thus, N. Olahus mentioned the contrasts bet-

J;1306pameHHH B

u~em~,

npaazra,
KOH

HOM. TaK, Olwml~LI ~aBcKMiII

H.

Oriaxyc

OTMP'-Ia.Tl 0'1'OT Mo.J1a

CpaBHJ1Te.JIhHO HeOO.JIhllIOM H

JIJ1"-IJ1HMOJI~aBCKOM o~cm~hI ~pynlx

JIJ1'-1CCTBe, CTpe'IaIOTCH B TI{)paX

na MJ1I1Ha-

uaponoa,
M.

rpanropax na

PYKonHCHLIX

.TlPTOnMcpq

KOCTMH,

crapOne'-laTHbIX BE'KOB. TaK, JIYKa

KHJ1r

XV-XVIII
l{CTeBaH 1'I'.TlHCT

J1CnOJIb3:'>'HTpy~bl

npernuccr-ayroacxax

MJ1Hv!al'lOpe

II~MX MCTOPMKOB,cpaBHMBa.J1 o~em-

BepOE::I3C1Hre.JIHH (1555) u300pameH TUlia o~em~e HHaTlOpe 3aHHH » HOM

CY.MUH

~y

MOJI~aBaH

C O~E'm~OM pMM.TlHlI. [I(HIBJIHuyHHocTpaHHblx

B KpecTbHllcIWM C BLlpe;~IILIM

B XVII-XVIII
IOTCH ;1anHCKM

BOPOTOM; CBHTOM

(1 ti4:n
an« H

B KHHn~

Teopr-nsr n a MHBap.naaraa « KaB KOCTH)B [IO~1I0HCallH306p<13HnI!lCLMCHI!I aK-

TeWeCTBE'JlJlMKOB C onl1CaHME'M KOCTIOMOB, <1 TaKfK!-' :lapHCOBKH xy-

H300pameH H r anor ax. ~pCI3HH(,

~omHMKOB, HOC

KOTOPblP ~alOT Har.Jl.Hl~no 06 o~('mJ~(' TO-

ME' BOHHa C n.n autora,

nponc-r-aancn

xadrr

r() BPl'M<.'HI!I. Co HhlX BTOPOW nO.TlOBMHhl

O~l!aKO Te.TlbHble

XIX

BC-

HeKOTOphH'

Ka Ol~IlHM TIOMa

H:l II<1MOO,T1l'l' ~OCTOBCpMCTOPMH KOC-

HbIE' I!ICTO'IHHI{H TOBble ~OKYMeIITbI HMyll~ecTBeHHO J1 60raTbIX CKYIO et'

rpaMOThl

HCTO'IHJ1KOB no

(>Tpa)KaJU1 riperpeozra.non KpeCTbHHB KaKOM a

CT<111013J1TCH cpororpacpan.

o~cml~y

ropoxcau.

JIHWb B TOM Mepe, KJIaCCOB,TOn). 3a'-laCTYIO

3JIE'ME'HTbI coxpanunnc H T. ~. KpOMe

r- B KOCuranxn. KOCTH)H306pa-

KOCTIOM rOPO)1,CKOrO HACEJIEHJUI Paanrer-ne

~aJIO BhlM 60JIee TOPYIO ropoziara ToproB.TlM M per-rece.n HeKOBO;~MomHOCTb cpezmcaexo-

TIOME::J1My~J1X noaca MbI ua HKOHax

npnofipecra XV -XVII

maJlHCb

no npHH.llTbIM

BHaaHTMH("-

C<1MOC·I'OHTCJlbHOCTh.HaM-

KHM KaHOHaM, n03TOMY ~JIH M3Y'H'HMH o~em~bI

xpyrnn-re

MOJI~aBCKMP roponercax H aacyzta. MOr.JIM zio-

XVII-XVIII

BEKOB

zra nOJIy<IM.JIMB

60.TlbI!IO(:, 3Ha'-leHMe nyrE'WeCTBeHHHKoB.

npJ106peTalOT

TOHOMMIO ynpaB.TlPHMH r<lTbiX I'OpOmaH,

.JIeTOnMCHbIC J1CTO'-lHHKMM 3anMCKM

CJIO)KMJICH HC3aBJ1CJ1MhIMCJlOM 60KOTOPbll' cOnppHM'-lilTb XYlIIKOM MaMM, C CPt:'O~a.TlbHOMaepBhll';l~OM. CTO.Tl-

Tlepn
czienaa sr paMM

sre nOnhlTKJ1

xapaicrepnc6bI.JIM aBTOKOCTl1-

THKJ1 MO.JI~aBCKOM o~em~bI cpe~HeBeKoBbIMM M

C130MM 60r<lTCTI30M -

ol~em~oM,

H. Orra xycow

M.

KHOBeilME' 3THX ~ByX

CM.JI cpE'O~aJIh-

ween the Moldavian garments and those of other peoples, while Moldavian annalist M. Costin, having used the works of foreliving historians, compared the garments of the Moldavians with the vestment of the Romans. Notes of foreign travellers with garb depictions, and also artists' sketches, giving a visual perception of the clothes of that time, appeared in the 17th - 18th centuries. In the second half of the 19th century there appeared one of the most trustworthy sources of the costume's history - a photography. THE COSTUME OF THE TOWNSPEOPLE Trade and craft development afforded medieval towns to acquire certain independence. In the L5th - 17th centuries the biggest Moldavian towns gained government and court autonomy. There was formed an independent stratum of rich towndwellers, who could rival feudal nobility in their wealth - houses. vestment. equipage. Clash of these two forces of the feudal society - boyars and townspeople - resulted in delimination of various aspects of life, which reverberated also in the garbs of different social strata.

18

nor-o -

06~eCTBa

60RP M ropoacan pa3rpaHM'IeHMIO 'ITO HaWJIO

rrpMBO.n,MT K

MHOrMX CTOPOH mM3HM, orpaacenne HbIX CJIOeB 06~eCTBa. 'IMCJIY CaMbIX

M B KOCTIOlVle pa3JIM'I.n,OpOrMX BeYKpaWeH-

K
~eM Hble

OTHOCMJIMCb60raTO O.n,em.n,bl. TaK,

B CrrMCKe npezraercax MOJI-

MeTOB, BXO.n,MBWMX B COCTaB .n,aHM. KOTOpyIO B .n,aBMR ro yc, Mp CYJITaHY,

XVI-XVIII

BblrrJIa'IMBaJIa 6blJIM Wy6bI Mexa.

TypeQKOMY M3 C060JIbe-

srceero XVI

IIYTewecTBeHHMK rroceTMBWMM CTpaHbI pe.n,MHe 3aKOHbI CKYIO aerca,

A.

BepaH'IM'ITO ee

MOJI.n,aBMlO B ceOTMeTMJI,

npezmnceraann

mMTeJIRM

HOCMTb TOJIbKO MOJI.n,aBBCRKOe 3aMMCTBOBa-

o.n,em.n,y,

HMe MHOCTpaHHOM KapaJIOCb, Ka3HM. I'ocnonapcxaraa npeuianocr, wero HWreM, JIOBHble panra, 06YBb

O.n,em.n,bI

CTpOrO

BrrJIOTb.n,O

CMepTHOM aaM3

YKa3aMM oztexczry

acera , KpOMe 60RP BbICHOCMTb H meJITOrO nocepefipenrrerx M KpaCHOrO COC-

rr030JIO'IeHHbIX QBeTOB, 30JIOTble

YKpaWeHMR.

pa3JIM'IHR

B KOCTIOMe or-

paHM'IMBaJIM,HarrpMMep, BeJIM'IHHY MOJI.lIaBCK>1M rocnonapi, AJIeKCaH.lIp .D,06pbIil, XV B. (P>1CYHOK BblIlIMBKe a en>1TpaX>1JI>1) no u 60RpCKOro rOJIOBHOrO yfiopa umMoldavian sovereign Alexander-the-Kind. Jl.UK B 3aBMCMMOCTM OT pant-a 60Rp. 15th century (drawn from the embroidery on O.n,HOTMrrHOrO rOpO.n,CKOrO KOCthe scarf) TIOMa He cy~ecTBOBaJIO COCJIOBMe, rrpomMBaBLuee Kam.n,oe B ropo-

19

Richly ornamented dresses numbered among the most precious things. Thus, in the roll of constituents of the tribute paid by Moldavia in the 16th through 18th centuries to the Turkish Sultan, there were fur coats of sable and lynx. A traveller A. Veranchius, who visited Moldavia in the middle of the 16th century, mentioned that all the laws of the country ordered its residents to wear only the Moldavian clothes, every borrowing of foreign garment was severely punished, up to the death penalty. Sovereign's edicts forbade everybody, but the boyars of the highest rank, to wear attire of gold or silver threads, footwear of yellow and red tints, gold ornaments. Estate distinctions in a garb restricted, for example, the size of a boyars' head-gear ishlik depending on the boyar's rank. There was no uniform townish costume - every estate, living in the town, had its own style of clothes. The topping of the town residents were feudals, boyars, landlords, high officials. Merchants, officers, and well-to-do craftsmen represented the middle stratum of towndwellers. Poor artisans, shopmen, peasants and servants constituted the major part of townsfolk. In the Middle Ages a considerable part of townspeople was engaged in peasant labour.

2'

~e, J1MeJIOCBOM TJ1n O~em~bI. XYUlKOM KI1, xpyrra rOpO~CKOrO sre 6bIJIJ1 cpe()~aJIbI HI1M C.TJOM ropoxcan rcyrurst.

Bep-

I-OLUl1e Bl'JIJ1<H1f' rocnortapa 6o.Hp. naznro-enponeiicxoro r-pruo ¢OpM J1

J1 e ro aa-

HaCeJIeHI1.H

CMeHJ1JIJ1Cb o~em~aMJ1

60.Hpe, nOMe~J1-

nOKp<).H, rtpoCpe~J1 HOBbIX

'-II1HOBHI1KJ1.

Cpezrpe-

HJ1KUlJ1MJ1 MOJI~aBJ1lO '-Iepe3 BeHB

npe~CTaBJI.HJII1 '-IaCTb ro~eXOBbIE' CJIyrl1. B

Tl o.m.ury.
KaK

'-IJ1HOBHJ1KI1 fior-a-rsre 11 HaCeJIeHI1}!

'-IaCTeM o~em~bI

nO.HBJI.HlOT-

MeCJIeHHJ1KJ1. BOJIbIUYlO pO~CKOrO 6e~HhIE' peMeCJIeHHI1KJ1, KpeCTb}!He,

C.H TaKJ1e

~JIJ1HHa.H MeXOBaJ'l ClllJ1Ta.H no Ta-

COCTaBJI.HJIJ1 MaHTJ1.H 'K01-iTem nOJIbCKOrO npOJ1CXOm~eHJ1.H, Y3Ka}! JIJ1J1orieaczta MJ1 C KOPOTKJ1Ml1 PYKaBaJ1JIJ1'Koeaa'b01-i HaJ160JIee rra nopr meHbl, ¢paH-

pa60THJ1KJ1, ropoxcan

Cpe~HJ1e nerca 3Ha'-II1TeJIbHa.H '-IaCTb 3aHJ1MaJlaCb KpeCTb.HHCrpyrma o~em-

nypny;,m
O~HO J13

uyscrcoro

nOKpO.H. paHHJ1X pe-re MOJIKOTOPbIM Ha'-IaJIY 1'1306pana 113 CTa06KOCTlOMa ¢eO~aJIOB AJIeKCaH~pa

KI1M Tpy~OM.

Kaxcnaa
~y.

CO~J1aJIbHaJ'l

11306pameHJ1M ziaacxoro ,U06poro

J1MeJIa CBOlO xaparerepayro OC06eHHO ~ecTBOBaJIJ1 ~aJIOB fiora-rt.re KpeCTb}!HaM Mem~y

MomHO yBJ1~eTb 11 ero

pe3KJ1e OTJIJ1'-IJ1.H CYO~em~OM ¢eoT'opoxcanara J1 HOCJ1Tb MeH.H.HCb aa-

rocnoztapa

J1 KpeCTb.HH. O~em~bI

OTHOCJ1TC.H KOH~Y K

XV-

3anpe~aJIOCb ozteaczta.

XVI

aerca

11 .HBJI.HeTC.HKOnJ1eM C nOpTpeTOB. BbIWl1BKe

11 YKpaUleHJ1.H.

60JIee paHHl1X meHl1e

KpeCTb.HHCKa.H

113BeCTHO no

B ~eTaJI.HX J1 J1Me.Hpa3JIJ1'-IHble npOT.HmeHJ1J1 MHOrJ1X OCHOBHble ~aJlbHOM ¢OPMbL B a 3HaTJ1 zmopa, BeKOB

MOJI~aBCKOM enJ1TpaXl1JIl1 po.naztoxccxor-o JIl1K pl1HbI rocnoriapa nepezran

pJ1aHTbI, cTa6J1JIbHO COXpaH.HJIa aa CBOJ1 cpeO-

MOHaCTblp.H. 11 ero meHbI C 60JIbWOM

Ma-

Ozreacna

asrpa-

3aBJ1CJ1MOCTJ1 311TeJIbHOCTblO, KOCTlOM rocnozrapa Hl1Kl1; nOJIbI ee COCTOJUI'J13 311rKOTaKme

OT nOJIJ1TJ1'-IeCKOM OpJ1eHTa~J1J1rocnO~apCKOrO ¢OPMY B HbIM HJ1e.

non

~JIl1HHOM nO~B.H3aHHOM nO.HCOMTYyrcpauremsr opnaraea-rora, WanKJ1 nOKpoM 3aro06pa3HbIM

BJIJ1.HHJ1eMMO~bI J1 CTJ1JIb.

'-IaCTO MeH.HJIa 3Ha'-IJ1TeJIb-

XIV-XVI
6bIJIO

aercax

TOPbIM nOBTOp.HeTCH rra nOJIRX BbICOKOM KPyrJIOM TYHJ1Ka ozreacn, l1MeeT J13 cYKHa, nOJIbCKJ1X nozr

BJ13aHTJ1MCKOe BJIJ1.HCTpOrJ1e BJ13aH(TYHJ1Ka. ~aJInO~'-IepKJ1Ba-

Tlocrenenno

TJ1MCKJ1e o~em~bI MaTJ1Ka, XJIaMJ1~a),

C¢OpMl1pOBaBWl1XCH

BJIJ1.HHl1eM KOCTlOMa

aananno-ea-

Each social stratum had its characteristic habit. Especially sharp differences existed between feudals' and peasants' clothes. Towns folk and peasants were forbidden to wear rich attires and adornments, The peasants' garments, though changeable in details and having different variants, stably preserved the main forms in the course of many centuries. The attire of feudal nobility was often changing its forms and style, depending on the political orientation of the potentate's court, and subject to the impacts of the mode. The Byzantine influence in the 14th-16th centuries was significant. The austere Byzantinesque garments (tunic, dalmatic, chlamys), emphasizing the grandeur of the sovereign and his boyars, made way for the vestments of the West-European cut, which penetrated into Moldavia through Hungary and Poland. Among the new forms of grab pieces, there appeared such ones as long fur robes kontesh of the Polish origin, clothes of French fashion - pourpoint or covadion - tightly fitted around the waist. One can see an earliest depiction of the feudals' garb in the portrait of the Moldavian sovereign Alexander-the-Kind and his wife, referring to the and of the 15th - early 16th centuries, a copy of foredated portraits. The portrayal is known by the embroidery

20

MOJlAaBCKl1<'ropO:IKaHe B oAe:IKAax BOCTOQHOrO nOKpOfl XVIlI B_ (no pl1CYHKYxYAO:IKHWKaIa MOTpai1e) J Moldavian townspeople in the garments of oriental style- 18th century (by the drawing of La Motraje)

on the Moldavian scarf from Staroladozhsky Cloister. The sovereign's appearance, and that of his wife Mariria is rendered with great expressiveness. The sovereign's garb consisted of a long girdled tunic, its laps being trimmed up with a zigzag pattern. The flaps of a tall rounded cloth cap are decorated with the same design. The tunic is cut after the mode of Polish garments, which took shape under the influence of the West-European costume, while the head-gear is of the Italian origin. The princess Marina is clad in Byzantine attires - a long dress with dolman sleeves. She has a Byzantine sternma-shaped crown on, with pendants of precious stones. The ecclesiastic frescoes of the late 15th century present portrayals of the potentate Stephen III. By that time the habit of the Moldavian nobility was subject to even greater influence of the Byzantian dress. In the potentate's portraits one can see a long silk tunic and velvet robes embroidered in gold. Women's head-dresses. reproducing Italian, German and French models, were noted for a wide diversity. Sheepskincraft and furriery were widespread in Moldavia, the earliest mentions of them referring to the middle of the 15th century. Expensive textiles, the Flandrian and Florentine merchants were dealing in,the French and Polish cloth, velvet, Chinese and Persian silks, camelot, patched with

22

poneMCKMX CTpaH, a rOJIOBHOMyfiop WraJIb.HHCKOrO npOMCXOm~eHM.H. KH.HrMH.H TMMCKMC pYKaBaMH. THna He~i. IJ;epKoBHbIe cppeCKH KOH~a BeCKaMH

CyKHO. HyIO pMM,

fiapxar-,

KHTaMCKHe H KaMKy.

nep-

CM~CKMe WeJIKa. 30.nOThIMH MM TOprOBaJIM ~par()~eHHOCTM MOJI~aBMlO MTaJIMM.

OT~eJIaH-

Maprnra
o~em~bI Ha

ozier-a

B BH3aH~JIMHHOe

HMT.HMH, KOTOPbI-

xyn tn.r

M3 <PJIaH~H B 11

nJIaTbP C ~.TIHHHbIMH H WMPOKHMM

<PJIOpeH~MM.

YKpaWeHM.H

xopona BM3aHTMMCKOMCTeMbI C noztrOJIOBE'H:~ ~paI"()[~eHHbIX KaM-

~OCTaBJI.HJIMCb

M3 TpaHCMJIbBaHMM

XV

aexa npe~CTaBJI.HlOT H306pameHM.H rocnozrapn C'r ecpana III. K 3TOMY

BpeMeHM KOCTIOM MOJI~aBCKOM3HaTl1 MCnbITaJI

XVII aexa KOCTlOM scpyroa 3HaYMTeJIbHO MeH.HeTC.H non BJIH.HHHeM o~em~ 'rypetncwx CaHOBHMKOB.C YCMJIeHMHaYMHa.H C npaB.HW;MX eM OCMaHCKoro rHeTa BOCTOYHbIM CTMJIb npOHMKaeT He TOJIbKO B KOMMyLUMX CJIOeB peMec-

euie

60JIbWee

BJIH.HHa BM~HbI H 6ap30pa2-

HMe

BH3aHTHMCKOM

O~em~bl.

CTlOM npaB.HW;MX KJIaCCOB, HO M B

nOpTpE'TaX

r-ocrrortapn

ozrexczry

~pyrHx -

~JIMHHaJ'l WeJIKOBa.H TyHMKa JIOTbIMM HMT.HMM. BOJIbIllMM

06W;eCTBa

ToprOB~eB,

XaTHa.H MaHTM.H C BbIIllMBKOM Hoo6pa3MeM WMP

JIeHHHKOB, 60raTbIX Ma no

KpeCTb.HH.

M3MeHeHM.H HayaJIMCb C KOCTlO-

OTJIMyaJIMCb meHCKHe BocnpOM3BO~MBHeMe~KHe,

rocnozrapa.
KOTOPOMY

CJIOmMJlC.H 06bIyaM.

rOJIOBHbIe y60PbI,

np n

B03Be~eHMH

na

MTaJIb.HHCKMe,

npeCTOJI o~em~bI

I"OCnO~aplO M rOJl()BHOM

Ha~eBaJll1 Type~-

cppaHqY3CIUW

ofipa3Ubl.
6bIJIO peMeCJIO IIIMPOKO

yoop

MOJI~aBHH aaeno

pacnpocrp

HMKOB, MeXOBW;MKOB, MMHaHMJ'l 0 KOTOpbIX

'ry.rrynnepat-re yrroOTHOC.HTC.H K

xor-o nOKpO.H - KafjiTa1i, 1w6a1iu"4Y H T1Op6a1i. 3TOT 06p.H~ nprrofipe.n fio.rree WMPOKMM CO~MaJlbHbIM
CMbIC.n npM06w;eHME' B K onpe~e~apMJI JleHHOM COCJlOBHOM KaTeI"OpMH. rOC-

cepe.anne XV nerca. ,UJI.H60.HPCKHX oztexczt MCnOJIb30BaJIH nopor-ne TKaHH cppaH~y3cKoe H nOJIbCKOe

noziaprs.
KacpTaHbI 3M C

CBOlO Oyepe~b.

CBOMM npM6J1MmeHHbIM,

B03BO~.H MX B
KOCTIOM MOJ1.l1aBCK"'X GORp. KOHel~

panr

60.Hp.

CB.H.H3bI-

XVIII

3TMM

MOJI~aBCKOM

B.

(no

r pa mope

xY.l\omHHKa

,UaMi::lHH)

Ke CJlOmMJlOCbBbIpameHMe

«a K3fji-

Costume of Moldavian boy ars. Late (by the etching of Damani)

18th century

T31iU»,
panr

YTO 03HayaJlO

«npH06peCTM

60.HpMHa».

23

gold sewing, were used for boyars' garments. Adornments and jewelry were supplied for Moldavia from Transilvania and Italy. Beginning from the 17th century, the garb of the ruling circles considerably changed under the influence of the dresses of Turkish dignitaries. As the Osmanli oppression aggravated, the Oriental style more and more penetrated not only in the ruling classes' habit, but also in the clothes of other social strata,-- tradesmen, artisans, rich peasants. Alterations began from the sovereign's outfit. There arose a custom, according to which, when enthroned. the sovereign was attired and covered in a Turkish fashion - a caftan, a kabanit.,a, and a turban. Caftan granting acquired a broader social meaninggetting into a certain estate category - the sovereign was granting a caftan to his attendance, elevating them to a boyarage. In this connection, in Moldavia there was established the expression "a kaftani", which meant "to acquire a boyarage". Caftan - a long fur trimmed shoulder vestment with flaring sleeves - lasted as an official dress of boyarage up to the 19th century. Other kinds of boyars' attire, also of the Turkish origin, were dulama, zhubya, kabanitsa. Wide knee-deep scarlet trousers were worn in complex with heelless high

boots of fine leather, and shoes, worn over them. The boyars' garb of the 17th·-18th centuries was supplemented with a high fur cap of a complex configuration, which used to be substituted in domesticity for a red fez. A Russian functionary has left a description of the 18th century garments of the Moldavian boyars: "Since a certain time, boyars in their dresses adapted themselves to Greco-Turkish attire and customs. Over a short shawl-girdled caftan they wear a wide and long collarless felt cloak with long and full sleeves, cut at the end, yellow Morocco shoes with stockings of the same colour, called papushi, and a big pot-like fur cap. Beard among the Moldavians numbers among privileges and solely boyars of the first two classes have the right to wear it*. Women's boyars' attire has also essentially changed under the Turkish impact. Women wore short jackets, and wide jersey cloaks over them. Marauui - a mantling of fine silk served as a gala head-dress both for boyars' wives and rich peasant women. In spite of the fact that the vestment of nobility was submitted to the influence of
• Transactions of History and Antiquities Society. Odessa, Statistics, 1867, v. 6.

24

Karpr an -

,n;JIMHHa.H nJIe'IeBaH MeXOM, C K HM3Y KaK

pYKaBaMM, MM,

na

KOH~e

paapeaamn,rTY<PJIM

o,n;eJK,n;a, OTOpO'IeHHaH

JKeJITbIe

Ca<pbHHOBbIe

pacumparouursracn
BaMM aJIbHaH BMH ,n;o

pyxaCOCJIO-

C TaKOBblMM BaeMblMM MeJK,n;y

COXpaHMJICH

Oq)M~M-

o,n;eJK,n;a

60HpCKOrO

naar-rnanyura, M 60JIbWYIO urarncy nartozrofirre ropunca, Eopona

JKe
'IYJIKaMM. MOJI,n;aBaHaMJ1 C'IMTaeTCH B 'IMCJIe npMBMJIerMVr, M O,n;HM TOJIbKO 60Hpe

XIX aexa.
BM,n;aMM 60HPCKOVr npOMC-

.l(pyrHMH

o,n;eJK,n;blTaKJKe Type~Koro XOJK,n;eHMH 6bIJIM

rtepnrstx

zmyx

KJIaCCOB

J/C106.a, 1w6aJiutj,a. Il.Inporerre urr am.r repacnoro ~BeTa ,n;JIMHOIO,n;o KOJIeH HOaYJLaMa,
CMJIH B KOMnJIeKCe TOHKOVr KOJKM 6e3 C cartor-axm Ka6JIYKoB, M3 no-

MMeIOT TaKJKe

npaso

HOCMTb OHYIO»*. 60HpCKaH

:tKeHcKaH

o,n;eJK,n;a
:tKeHHa,n;e-

cyutect-aemto
CTaJIM HOCHTb

H3MeHHJIaCb KopOTKMe M3 TOHKOM TaK H 60-

nozt

Type~KMM

BJIMHHMeM. KOTOPblX

ll(MHbl BaJIM

nepx
BeKOB

KOTOPblX

06YBaJIM

Ty<PJIM.

KaMaOJIbI, WepCTM. y60pOM raTblX TKaHM KphIBaJIO

noaepx

BOHPCKMM

XVII-XVIII ,n;onO.JIH.H.JIa BbICOKaH urarnca

IWCTIOM

WMPOKMM n.nuur KaK M~3 60HPbIHb, TOHKOM

IIpa3,n;HJ1'-1HbIMrOJIOBHblM
CJIYJKMJIO noWeJIKOBOM OD;eJKD;a THnbl

CJIOJKHOMKOHCllMrypa~MJ;[, KOTOPYIO B ,n;OMaWHMX YCJIOBMHX 3aMeHHJIM KpaCHblM OCTaBMJI <pecoM. O,n;MH M3 PYCCKMX '-IHHOBHMKOB ,n;aBCKI1X 60HP

KpeCTbHHOK

MapaJli;}.

pe

onncarrae o,n;eJK,n;bl MOJIXVIII nexa: «BOHo,n;eJK,n;e cBoeM, C nexo'ropor-o

npMHOpaBJIMBaIOTCH HOCHT K

HeCMOTpH TpaHHOM o,n;eJK,n;bI, TbL TaKMC

na

TO, 'ITO HOBbIe

3HaTM ncrn.rr-r-raana MO,n;bI,

BJIMHHMe MHOC-

BpeMeHH, '-IaHM. OHH

nonaa

na

MOJI,n;aBCKYIO MecTHble

naparry H ofn.rcaepx nOJIYKa<pTaHa, nozmoacannoro wa.JIbIO, WMporcyro H ,n;OJIryIO enan-ry 6e3 BOpOTHMKa 111. Kpayc. nOpTpe1' eoprnnca C ,n;O.JIrHMMM IliMpOKMMM Bpana, XIX B.

rpexo-t-ypemcowry

nO'-lBY. npH06peTaJIH 3JIeMeHTbl

xep-

Tpa,n;H~HoH-

noro MO.n,n;aBCKoro KOCTIOMa KaK uae-rm.re IlIepCTHHhlf' noxca, BbIWHTbIM opHaMCHT na meHCKMX PY6axax H na BepXHHX MYJKCKMX H JKeHCKMX orrexcnax H ,n;pyrHf' ,n;o*
3anl1CKI1 O,[J;PCCKOI'O o611~e(_IHa HCTOP1H1 ItT

(rOCYAapCTSeHHbI:H

XY,lJ;OmeCTHeHHbl:H

MY3ew MCCP) 1. Kraus. Portrait of Vornik Bran. 19th century (The State Art Museum of the MSSR)
,lJ;penHocTeii. CTaTHcTI1Ka.

T. 6. OlI;l'CCa, 1fW7.

25

a foreign vogue, on getting into the Moldavian soil, new garment types assumed local character. Such constituents of the traditional Moldavian costume as coloured woollen girdles, embroidered patterns on women's chemises and upper women's and men's garments, and other elements, supplemented the boyars' attire. This is how a boyar looked like, according to the description of the Moldavian writer K. Negrutsi: "He had a white silk caftan on, girdled with a scarlet scarf ... Under the blue sable-trimmed cloth coat one could see one of those katsaveykas (sleeveless fur-trimmed waist-coat). which are called fermens. The whole forefront of it was embroidered in a gold sewing and cords. He had a big fur cap on, its circumference being at least about 30 centimetres"·. Some kind of the boyars' garments were adopted by the boyars' servitors - stewards, managers, musicians, servants, and gradually penetrated into the peasants' environment. Long boyars' caftans were obligatory accessories of the Moldavian musicians' outfits in the first half of the 19th century. Different garment types - women's short wraps fermenyu, home-made peasants' cloth boots m,?.hti, a long white upper garment
• K. Negrutsi. 'Selected Works.' Kishin<>v."Kartya Moldovenyaska" Publishers, 1957, p. 20.

KOCTIOM (no pacynuy

MOJl}laBCKOH l13 KHMrM

rOpO>KaHKM.

XIX

B.

«:/Kl1BOnl1CHaH

POCCMH»,

1898)

Costume of Moldavian town-dweller. 19th century (from the book ."Russia in Drawings". 1898)

nOJIHHJIM 60HpCKMe KaK BbIrJIH,n;eJI serca

o,n;em,n;bJ. BOT B HaqaJIe HeM MOJI,n;aBCKO-

caMo,n;eJIbHbIe TMHKM M3 cyicna cyrcna OYJLaMiJ,

KpeCTbHHCKMe MeWTb,

60-

60HPMH

,n;JIMHHaH zrpyr-ne ee

XIX
6bIJI TbIM MM Tex

B ormcaana

6eJIaH BepXHHH oneaczra M3 TOHKoro a TaKme JlC106Sl,

ro nMCaTeJIH

K. Her-pynn:
6eJIbIM KpaCHbIM

«Ha

WeJIKOBbIM

Ka<pTaH, uae-rac-

pa3HoBM,n;HOCTM -

UnU1iJICSl, aexa

rrormoacanm.ra
HOM Wy60M, MexOM,

ascrepiuj.
HaqMHaH B CBH3M ro C KOH~a aa

uraprpora ... Tlozt 6bIJIa

CMHeM CYKOHH3

XVIII

OTOpOqeHHOM C060JIbBM,n;Ha ozraa 30BYTCH ee 6bIJI 6bIJIa

C oCJIa6JIeHMeM

OCMaHCKO-

rocnoncr

B MOJI,n;aBMM, a aaM3rHaHMeM TypOK

reauaaeex,

'ITO nepezt

<PePpac60JIb-

TeM

M nOJIHbIM

MeHaMM. MM. Ha uraa ceMb

Beet,

pyCCKMMM

BOMCKaMM

nponcxozner

WMT 30JIOTbIMM HMTKaMM M umyparOJIOBe y Hero

nocrenennoe ropoxcan.

06HOBJIeHMe KOCTlOMa

MeXOBaH urarnca, BepWKOB»

orcpyaeaocrr,
Mepe

M3MeHeHMe

nOJIMTMqeCKOrO

KOTOPOM MMeJIa no

MeHbweM

*.
BM,n;bI 60HPCKOM 60HPCynMy-

cra'ryca icpaa, npacoenanenae Beccapafimr K POCCMM B 1812 r ozry

CbIrpaJIO BMTMM TOqHbIX KOCTlOMa. peurarouiyro MOJI,n;aBCKoro M pOJIb B paaropo,n;cKoro BOC-

Herco-ropsre

o,n;em,n;bI 3aMMCTBOBaJIMCb KMMM CJIymMJIbIMM paBJIHlO~MMM, 3bIKaHTaMM,

JIlO,n;bMM M

Cocymec-rnoaamre
aanazmo-enportefrcxnx

npMKa3qMKaMM,

CJIyraMM

nocrerrcaKpeCTbHH. 6bIJI

3JIeMeHTOB B

o,n;em,n;e

3amMTOqHbIX

HO npOHMKaJIM 06H3aTeJIbHOM

B cpeziy

ropoacan
nOJIHoMY =raro-r nbI

rroc-rerrenno
CTMJIeM, a ynazncy

nprraomrr
3aTeM
lIJ

K
K

,UJIMHHbIM 60HPCKMM

Ka<pTaH

CMeweHMlO

npMHa,n;JIemHOCTblO

BOCTOqHOrO KOCMOJI,n;aBMM nOJIyHOBbIe TMnJIa~, maKeTbI euie naKpacuramca, fieapyo,n;em,n;bI nJIaTbH,

o,n;em,n;bI
nepnori KOCTlOM

MOJI,n;aBCKMXMY3bIKaHTOB nOJIOBMHbI

TlOMa. B roponax ropozicreori

XIX

aerca.

pacnpocr-paueane
peznmr-or-,
coxpanaro-rca nOHC,

fiora'rrsrx

CJIOeB

xpecr-aan3JIeMeHTbI KO-

CTBa BOWJIM pa3JIMqHbIe 60HPCKOM o,n;em,n;bI: pOTKaH BepxHHH

<ppaK, zionro HbIM KaBKa,

meHCKaH

M zrpyr-ne,

HO BMeCTe

C TeM -

ozrexczta ifJep.MR1iSl,

3JIeMeHTbI

~MOHaJIbHOrO TeMHbIM
., KOHCTaHTHH KapTH

KOCTlOMa 6apaWKOBaH

mMJIeT, BbIWMTaH

MeXOBaH

Hf'rpYL\H_

M36paHHoe_

KH-

KO<pTOqKa 11 He-

llHfHeB·

M0J1.l10BeHHCK3.

1957. c. 20.

reoropsre

zrpyr-ne.

27

of fine cloth dulama, as well as other varieties of upper garments - zhubya, ipinzhya, fell within the vestiture of the rich peasantry strata. Beginning from the late 18th century, in connection with the weakenning of the Osmanli Rule in Moldavia, and afterwards - a complete banishment of the Turks by the Russian troops, a gradual renewal of the townsfolk's costume took place. Alteration of the land's political status, annexation of Bessarabia by Russia in 1812, played a decisive role in the development of the Moldavian townish costume. Coexistence of the Oriental and West-European elements in wealthy townsfolk garments gradually brought about style-mixing, and then - a complete decay of the Oriental costume. WestEuropean dress-types - cloaks, tail-coats, redingotes, dresses, jackets and other thingswere practised in the towns of Moldavia. Progressively, new types of townish clothes became practised on a larger and larger scale, but at the same time, elements of the national costume - a red girdle, lambskin cap, dark waist-coat, fur sleeveless jacket, embroidered blouse and some other constituentshave been preserved for a long time.
anteriu. -

TPA~I1UI10HHA5I KPECTb5IHCKAH OAE)KllA Traditional Peasants' Dress

iKeHCKJ.1M KOCTIOM KOCTIOM

Myxccxoir
KaK

IIORC

xaparcrepm.ni

3JIeMeHT KOCTIOMa

HaU;J.10HaJIbHOrO

Women's Costume Men's Costume Girdle, a Traditional Element of the National Costume

ycrrOBJ1HX

3aMKHYTOrO

na-ry11

TbI, aa

CHOBaHJ1e, YCTaHoBKa TKal\KJ1M TKaHb CTaHOK.

OCHOBbI aa

paJIbHOrO ozreaczry nosra, KOCTIOMa, Tepa-p

X03HMCTBa rcpec'r'uarre TaKJ1e KaK

TKaHb

J13rOTOBJIHJII1 '-IaCTJ1 6e3MaCC 06YBb,

,ll;JIH O,ll;e:iK,ll;bI TKaJIJ1

11 TOJIbKO OT,ll;eJIbHbIe J1lllarrKJ1,-

rOpJ130HTaJIbHOM TKal\KOM

nepe,ll;BJ1:iKHOM ,ll;OMe J13-

CTaHKe C ,ll;ByMH HaBOHMJ1.

PYKaBKJ1, TyJIyrrbI

B Ka:iK,ll;OM KpecTbHHCKOM
JIOTHO ,ll;JIH py6ax CKJ1X un-anon

eM ec.ne HH I1KJ1.

Zleayurex
BbIlllJ1Ba-

rOTOBJIHJII1 He TOJIbKO XOJICT 11 rroJ1 JIeTHJ1X MY:iKHO J1 urepozteacn oaca, 106Kl1

paHHJ1X JIeT y'-II1JII1 J1CKYCCTBYrrpa,ll;eHJ1H, TKaHbH, HJ1H. ITo C 06bI'-IalO MaTepblO lllJ1TbH, zreayunca BMeCTe rOTOrro-

(n btH33),
a6a,

CTHHbIe TKaHJ1 ,ll;JIH aepxrreji ,ll;bI

,ll;OJI:iKHa 6bIJIa rr pirna Hoe, pozme.

(CYMau,

WU.RX),
11

BJ1Tb cnoe ztaprcrr

a TaK:iKe

:iKeHCKJ1e

rrepe,ll;HI1KJ1 C 3TJ1M yxce

:iKeHJ1XY 11 ero

(WOp'll,,1CaTpU'Htp).
C n

HaJ160JIee

,ll;peBHJ1MJ1 MaTepJ1a-

JIaMJ1 ,ll;JIH J13rOTOBJIeHJ1H O,ll;e:iK,ll;bI 6bIJIJ1 KOHOrrJIR, KOTOPYIO a BaJIJ1 na y'-IaCTKax,

Hapazty XIV aexa oacm.re

Ha'-IJ1HaH cape-

rrOHBJIHIOTCH OT,ll;e.rrbTKal\Kl1e, npnnazmecepennn

srparunJIeH. KaK peRJ1 B exa

HbIe

npann.nsrrsre,
6oHpaM,

cneuaarn.no
lllepCTb, TKaHI1

OTBe,ll;eHHbIX pe:iKe o6pa6aTbIBaJIl1

MaCTepCKJ1e, nexaxr. ,Uo

»cannre

MOHacTbIpHM,

Lllepcr-ansre
aa

MecrreHHbIM

sr

CYKHOBaJIbHHX,

rcoropsre
6epery

XIX
CTBe

aexa

B KpecTbHHCKOM noazmee

x03Hi1:B ce rre

rrpaBJ1JIO CTPOI1JIJ1 na J1JII1 oaepa, rtoxyrnryro ,ll;JIH TKaHbH

J1CrrOJIb30BaJIJ1 ca J1 TOJIbKO

xronern.aare

C ceperunrsr

XIX

TKaHJ1, rroro

CTaJIJ1 J1CI10JIb30BaTb XJIorr'-IaTo6YMa:iKHYIO K

rrO.HBJIHIOTCHTaKl1e TKaHJ1 cpa6pl1'-Irrp0I13BO,ll;CTBa KaK ure.mc, B MOJI,ll;aBJ1J16bIJI KOMrrJIeKC ,UJIH onexc3TO 06Il\eHa6eJIbIe ~BeTCJ1Tel\, ca-

rtprrxcy.
ITO,ll;rOTOBKa KOHOrrJIJ1 11 JIbHa rtpnzrerrmo J1 TKaHblO oTpa6oTaHHbIX COCTOHJIa 113 KOHOrrJIJ1 I1JIJ1 BbIMa '-II1BaHJ1e, MHTbe, '-Iecan ee

TJ1H, xauieraap.

Iloaceraecrno
pacnpocrpaaen ,ll;bI, l\110HaJIbHbIM. ,ll;JIJ1HHaH

na rrpOTH:iKeHJ111Be-

KOTOpbli1: HBJIHeTCH py6axa,

KOB ,ll;ei1:cTBJ1i1::cfiop JIbHa, cyuremre, BTOPJ1'-IHoe cyurenne, HJ1e, rtpaztenne, nponycxanne o-rfien naanae

My:iK'-II1H Y3KJ1e

urrarrsr (u3Meue

J1JIJ1 u'ltapb),

porasraxa
xepea npaxca

rrpH:iKJ1, 3a
TKall,KI1M CTaHKOM

MOTOBI1JIO, na KpecThe process of weaving

J1JIJ1 OKparnJ1BaHJ1e

HJ1Tei1:,neperaorrca

Under the conditions of a closed natural economy, cloth and garments were made by peasants at home, and only several parts of the costume, such as footwear, sleeveless jackets, sheepskin coats and fur caps were made by craftsmen. Girls from the tender age were taught the craft of spinning, weaving, sewing and embroidery. According to the custom, a girl together with her mother had to prepare her trousseau, as well as gifts to her betrothed and his kinsfolk. The most ancient materials for dress-making were: hemp, grown on the lots specially set aside, wool, more seldom - flax. Woollen staffs were processed in fulling-mills, built, as a rule, on a riverside or a bank of a lake. From the middle of the 19th century, purchased cotton yarn came into use for weaving. Getting hemp and flax ready for spinning and weaving consisted of operations, mastered in the course of ages: hemp or flax harvesting, drying, retting, re-drying, breaking, combing, spinning, yarn-washing, yarn-windling, thread bleaching and thread dyeing, yarn-reeling onto the crosses, warping, warp-fixing on the loom.

30

HOMWepCTJIHOMH.nH WHPOKHM KO- TeM - aepxneii H HHmHeM. BepxmaHbIM nOHC (6PbtY), 6apaUItWBaR HHR yaCTb (cTaH, 'tynuz) RB.!IRJIaCb uiamca (KylUM:~) H.nH uinnrra [nscnoero porta KoqnOYKoM. 6bIJIa A.3PtH'). ,U.nHmeHI._QHH fie.nax opaccr na OTKPbITOi1. et:' UIMJIJ1J1360HaMeHTHpOBaHHaH py6axa. nonepx .net:' TOHKoro nOJIOTHa H YKpalUaJIH KOTOPOM naneaan a urepc-rxayro BbIWJ1BKOM.HHmHlO1O yaCTb py6a106KY (1WTPUHtp) H wepCTHHOM noXH (noaAe) acerna nOKpbIBaJIH 106HC, ronoanoe noxpsmano (H3ifJpaKoi1. H n03ToMY .n;JIR nee HCnOJIbMa) l1.nl1 rtna rox (6acMa). 11 Mym- 30BaJIl1 TKaHb rronpoure. TO.nbKO B '-IHHbl. l1 meHI._QHHbI B xo.nomtoe TOM cnyxae. icorzta B KaYPCTBt: 106BpeMH aaneaan a 6e3pYKaBKH (nenKH aaneaann TaK Ha3bIBaeMYlO ifJoTap) H CBHTY (CYMaH), B .n;om.n;.TJH- T.3 (106Ka H3 .n;ByX paapoauernn-rx ayio norozry K 3TOMY ztofiaan arrca no.nOTHHI._Q, nepezmero H aarnrero), uiepcranoa rt.narn (MaHTa KY ZAy- J13-no.n; KOTOPOM BH.n;Ha HHmHRH nocnenmoro nennZ.3). :::ha 06I._QepaCrrpOCTpaHeHHaH '-IaCTb pyfiaxu, KOM WH.nH H3 .ny'-IWeM TKaHJ1 H oponexcna HMe.na MeCTHbIe ocofieaHOCTH, xoropsre '-IaI._Qe acero rrpo- HaMeHTHpOBa.nHHe TO.nhKOcaepxy, HB.nH.nHCb B meHCKOM KOCTIOMe, HO H CHH3y. TYHHKo06pa3HaH py6axaa TaKJKe B zre-ranax rrOKpOH, opnaO.n;HHH3 .n;peBHJ1XBH.n;OBO.n;em.n;hI MeHTal.\HH. a a TeppHTopHH Monnaann. B OCmEHCKHfi KOCTIOM HOBHOM OHa pacnpocr panena aa ceaepe pecnytinnxa J1 B Mo.n.n;aBJKeHcKaH o.n;em.n;a 6bI.na 60.nee CKHX ce.nax EYKOBHHhI. TaKHe pyKpaCO'-IHOMH pa3Ho06pa3HoM, '-IeM 6aXH WH.nH H3 .nbHHHOM, KOHonMymcKaH. KOCTIOM Kam.n;oM 3THO- JIHHOM l1JIl1 x.norr-ra-rofiyw amHOM rpaqm'-IeCKOM 30HbI HMe.n CBOl1oco- TKaHJ1. ,U.nH npa3.n;HHYHhIX py6ax 6eHHocTM B noxpoe H yxpaurena ax, Hcno.nh30BaJIH TKaHh H3 urerrxaOCHOBHOrl '-IaCTblO Mo.n.n;aBC- csrpua (6opaHJlCUK). Bblpe3HOM BOxor o meHCKoro KOCTIOMa6blJIa py- pOT TYHJ1K006pa3HOM py6axJ1 Mor 6axa, KOTopaH paamoranacr, no TJ1- 6hITh xpyr.non J1.nJ1 KBa.n;paTHoM ny rrOKpOH: TYHHKo06pa3HaH. C CPOPMhI,noarinee nOHBl1JICH aensrl.\e.nbHOKpoeHbIM pYKaBOM, C n.ne- COKJ1M CTOH'-IHM H.nJ1OT.nomHoM BO'-IeBbIMJ1 BCTaBKaMH, na KOKeTKe. POTHJ1K.TYHJ1K006pa3HYIO py6axy Py6axa COCTOH.naH3 zrayx yac- YKpaWaJIH BhIWJ1BKOM, o6pa3YIOThey wove garment cloth on a horizontal movable loom with two wrap-beams. In every peasant's house they made not only cloth and linen for shirts (chemises), and summer men's trousers (pynza), but also woollen stuffs for the outdoor garments (.uman. aba, shiyak). belts, women's aprons and skirts (.horts. katrintsa). Parallelly with it, beginning already from the 14th century, there arose spinninghouses, weaving and bootmakers' shops, which belonged to boyars, cloisters, crafts. Home-made clothes were used in peasants' households up to the middle of the 19th century, and only later such factory-built textiles as print, sateen, cashmere, and silk turn up in the village. All over the territory of Moldavia there was prevailed an outfit, considered to be national. For men it was a camise, white pantaloons (izmene or itsari), a coloured woollen or a wide leather belt (briu), a lambskin cap (kushma) or a hat (paZariye). For womena white ornamented chemise, with a woollen skirt over it (katrintsa) and a woollen girdle; a cover (na/rama) or a kerchief (basma) were worn on the head. In cold seasons both men

32

)KeHcKafl py6axa na KOKeTKe c BbIIIII1TbIM opHaMeHTOM pacTMTenbHoro xapaKTepa (BpI1QaHCKI1H paHoH) Women's vegetable chemise with a yoke ornament (Brichany and embroidered District)

~ei1

na

rpy.n;H TpH-Y:eTbipe

BepTVIMJIMKOHel.

KaJIbHble

nUJIOCbL BbIllIHBKy.n;e.JIapeme

JIM Ba x.JIony:aTo6YMamHOM nO.JIOTHe . llIepCTJIHbIX TKaHRX. BOnJUIHOM

OpBaMeHT

33

and women had sleeveless jackets (peptar) and a suit (suman) on; in a rainy weather a woollen cloak (manta ku gluga) was added to that. This prevalent dress had local peculiarities, shown as usual in women's garbs, just as soon in garment constituents, ornamentation.

WOMEN'S COSTUME
Women's clothes were more colourful and varied than men's. The costume of every ethnographical zone had its own distinctions in the fashion and adornments. A CHEMISE was the main constituent of the Moldavian women's national garb, being distinguished according to the type of the cut: a tunic-like one, with kimono sleeves, with shoulder insets, and with a yoke. The chemise consisted of two pieces - the upper and the lower one. The upper piece (stan, chupad) presented a kind of a blouse, and was always open, and therefore, it was sewn of a finer cloth and embroidered. The lower piece of the chemise (poale) was always covered with a skirt, and therefore, a plainer cloth was
3
M3A.

No 27

npa3,1:(HI1'-IHbIX CO'-IHbIH, HaMeHTa a

py6ax

HPKI1H,

Kpa60JIee op-

6Y)J;HW-IHbIX 6bIJI

C,I:(epJKaHHbIX TOHOB. 06bI'-IHO MeCTHbIMI1

Xapaierep

06ycJIoBJIeH

Tpa,l:(l1UI1HMI1 11 aaptcraa O,l:(eJK,I:(e, C03,1:(aH-

pOBaJI B 3aBl1Cl1MOCTl1 OT panonos. BbIWI1BKI1 HblC B Te'-IeHl1e JIeJKaT CTOJIeTI1:i1:,rtpnxan'-IaCTI1 MOJI,I:(aBKyJIbTYPbI. ,l:(peBHI1X opaa Tep11

K JIY'-Iwe:i1:

CKO:i1:opHaMeHTaJIbHo:i1: O,l:(HI1MI1 113 Hal160JIee HaMeHTaJIbHbIX pl1TOpl111 11306paJKeHl1H '-IeJIOBe'-IeCKI1X ¢OpMbI K KaK BOB

MOTI1BOB nTI1U,

MOJI.!:(aBI1I1 qmrypOK.

HBJIHlOTCH

JKI1BOTHbIX

Zlpeamre

YKpaWeHI1H, BeKaM

OTHOCHll.{l1eCH npe,l:(CTaBJIHlOT 11 pacMOTI1noTpaA~Q~oHHaH

TYHI1ltoo6pa3Horo

XVI-XVII

reOMeTpl1'-IeCKI1:i1:, TaK

TI1TeJIbHbI:i1: PI1CYHOK. paCTI1TeJIbHOrO H)lU6oJIbWee Ta, UBeTKa, Ha

Cpezur

opaaxreara BeTBI1, JII1CmeHCKaH py6axa

nORpOJI C paCTI1TeJIbHhIM

pacnpocrpaaenne

JIy'-II1JII1 11306paJKeHI1H nWeHI1'-IHOrO XpaHI1BWI1X paWeHI1H, KOJIOca.

BI1HOrpa,l:(Ho:i1: rp03,1:(11, py6axax, CO-

opHaMeHToM

(Bpl1'IaHCK~>i

paaona) chemise District)

lKeHCKaR

CTapl1HHbIX opaasrea-r MOJKeT

,l:(peBHl1e npsiere

sr

YK-

Traditional vegetable

women's ornament

tunic-like (Brichany

with

pacnOJIOJKeH CJIYJKI1Tb MOJITpOI1U-

Tpa,Z:V1J.J;l10HHaJI

KocpTOQKa

BblllU1ThIM

He TOJIbKO aa rpy)J;l1, HO 11aa crnnre.

reOMeTpl1QeCKI1M

opHaMeHToM

Ilpmaepora
Koe

(YHreHcK~>i

3THorpaq,H'leCKI1>i

My3e>i)

,l:(aBCKaH py6axa

113 cena

BOPOWI1JIOBrpa,l:(CKo:i1: 06JIaCTl1 I',I:(e JKI1ByT 113 nOTOMKI1 nepeKOHua MOJI,I:(aBl111

Tradilional women's chemise with embroidered gE'ometrical ornament (ThE' Ungeny Museum of Ethnography) Korp-ro=nea c QeJIbHOKpOeHbIM pYKaBoM (YHreHCKI1>i 3THorpaq,I1'1eCKI1>i My3e>i) Women's chemise with kimono sleeves (The Ungeny Museum of Ethnography)

YCCP, XVIII -

CeJIeHUeB

Ha'-IaJIa

XIX

aexa . .upeBHe pa3BI1-

HI1H Tl1n opHaMeHTaUMM,

used for it. Only when the so-called fota (a skirt of two separated widths, a front and a rear one) was put on as a skirt, and the lower part of the chemise was seen from under it, it was wholly sewn of a good material and the lower part was patterned just as soon as the upper one. A tunic-like chemise is an age-old garment on the Moldavian terrain. Basically it covers the North of the republic and the Moldavian villages of Bukovina. Such chemises were sewn, mainly, of flax. hemp. or cotton. Raw silk (boTanzhik) was used for holiday chemises. The carved neck of a tunic-like chemise could be rounded or squarewise; an upright or a turn down collar of a moderate height appeared later on. The tunic-like chemise would be ornamented with three or four vertically striped embroidery at the chest. The embroidery was stitched on a cotton or hemp, more seldom on woollen stuffs. The holiday chemises' design was variegated, while that of everyday ones was of more restrained tinctures. The nature of the ornamentation was usually conditioned by the local traditions and varied within districts. The garment embroidery, created in the course of centuries, is the best constituent of

34

BaRCb. coxpaHV!JICH l-IIIei1. ceBepe

TaM

zto

HaUIV!X

31'01'

nepnozr

TYHMKOo6pa3Hble .n;pyrI1MV!

opa3Jl,HW-IHbIX

py6axax

aa

py-

6aXM BbIXO.n;I1JIM M;~ yno-r 3aMeHHJIV!Cb py6axoM BOM V! RaK TOH~ee

pefi.rtenusr,
TV!naMV!-

peellyfi.nl1KI1

(EpWIClHCKI1M. BbIUll1BKa

E.n;I1He~J(V!j,1

paiionr.r)

C ~CJIbHOKpOeHbIM

pacno.nar anacr, 00 BeeM BepXHeM 'laCTV! pyfiax n no noxca. BKJIlO'laH pyxaaa, Ey.n;HW-IHbIf' pyfiax n 6bI.nV! yxpamen st CKpOMHee. OHM 'laCTO V!MeJIV! TOJIbKO omnr opHaMeHTI1p()BaHHbli1 Y'-lCleTOK B BI1.n;e OpHMO-

pyxa-

na
B

KOKeTKe.

rtpouirrosr,

TaK

V! B HaC-

BpeMH

HaM60.nbUlee V!MeeT nO'-lTV! py6axa

pacC KOTOBCeM

npocrpaaeane
~CJIbHOKpOCHbIM

pYKaBOM,

yr-o.m.umca
TV! BO TI1Ila. MOM Bepe 6bI.nl1

na

paa

BCTpe'laeTCH STa

na

rpy TIM.

TeppMTOpv!v!, n

HaCeJIeHHOM py6axa

MOJI,[IaK He-

TYHl1KOo6pa311

r.rc pyfiax
6bIJIM

nou-

BaHaMM. mOB, HI1Ky.

V!MeeT KOCOM BOPOTBOoeoOHI1 rt.neyxce. KpOH 11 11 V!3

acex paiionax
a V!

ozmoro

l1,[1ylI..\MM01' JIaCTOBI1~bI

OT.HI1'-1aHCbB OCHOBHOM ¢op-

BbICOKOMY KpOV!,nl1 Ke. 6yl{) Hble xax, 3TV!X

aoprrr

pvxaaa.

npucfiopennoray
BMeero

Ec.J1V! Ha eeEYKOBMHe crapnn

MHor,[la

BOpOTHV!Ka

Eeccapa6MV!

V! Ha

Kpyr.nbIM nOKpOM

Bblpe3HOM opV!.n;aeT

pacnpocvpauem.r

m-re
C

pOT, KOTOPbIM co6V!paJICH TaKoM cpop:vry pYKaBaM:

ua IIIHyp-

OOKPOV! TyHV!Ko06pa3HbIX KpyrJIbIM HbIM ero V!JII1KHa,[lpaTHbIM neBbICOKV!M Ha'-lCl.ny pYKaB.

py6ax

asrpeaCTOH'lI1M BeKa Bee B

0pI1C60peHB

BOPOTOM, TO B JIeBo6epembe 3aMeHV!.n

11HeMHoro OT'-I('r() py6ax zrpyr nx

npl1nOJl,HHTbH:'. nmpe KameTCH

zte.rraro r

cpMrvpy Ta.nl1H

BOpOTHMK. pexce CH

XX

BCTpC'laJICH

paCUlV!pHlOI~MM-

OCTaJIbHble

ocofieuuoc-r-a TV!nOB -

B MaHmeTe

B ue.nora

HB.nHlOTCH 06~MMI1 BepxHHH illblOTCH B paape-

.n;.nH

Hl1mHHH ae BepXHRR qaCTb meHCKOH py6axH TYHI<KOo6paaHoro nOKpOH (Bp",qaHcK"''' The upper (Brichany part of women's District) tunic-like paaou) chemise

'faCTV! py6ax V!MeeTCH

paa.rur-ursrx
pyrcasa Py6axa KaBOM HI1H. TpaJIHa Koq,TOqKa C lIeJIbHOKpOeHbIM pYKaBoM (YHreHCK",., 3THorpaq,,,,qeCK"''' Myae.,) Chemise with of Ethnography) kimono sleeves (The Ungeny Museum Ha

MaTepl1a.noB,

JIaCTOBI1~a. py-

C ~('.nbHoKpoeHbIM ,[IfWBHeru 6apeJIbecpax

npOI1CXOml\eKOJIOHHbI q,paKI1MCKMe C MHOrO'-ll1caeepowr pac-

11306pameHbI B py6axax cfiOpKaMM.

meHII\I1HbI .nCIIHbIMI1

XO.n;JI~I1MMCJI OT soper-a.

37

the Moldavian ornamental culture. Bird, animal and human figurine depictions are among the oldest ornamental motifs on the Moldavian terrain. The age-old decoration forms, dating back to the 16th - 17th centuries, present both geometrical and vegetable designs. Among the vegetable ornament motifs twig, leaf, flower, grape-cluster, wheat-spike representations were practised on the largest scale. In old-fashioned chemises, which retained ancient decoration devices, the ornament is located not only at the breast, but also at the back. It can be examplified by an old-style Moldavian chemise from the village of Troitskoye. the Voroshilovgrad Region of the Ukrainian SSR, where the descendants of migrants from Moldavia of the late 18thearly 19th centuries live. The old ornamentation type, in default of development, has lasted up to the day. In the North of the republic (the Br ichany, Yedintsy Districts), embroidery, on the gala chemises was spread all over the upper part of them, up to the waist, including the sleeves. Everyday chemises were trimmed more modestly, often with the only ornamented squarewise part at the breast. Almost in the all regions, tunic-like chemises were of the same cut, differing mainly

AHaJIOH:!'IHhIM l1MeJI

Tl1rr

rrOKpOH Y MHOrl1X

rrpOCTpaHeHHhIM IIIeHl1H py6ax

cnocotiosr

yicpa-

pacnpocrpanemse

HBJIHeTCH BhIIIIl1B-

HapO~OB ~eHTpaJIhHOM

11 BOCTO'I-

HOM Enporrsr. .n;peBHOCTh, a TaKme HaJIl1'Il1e HeCKOJIhKl1X Bapl1aHTOB rrOKpOH C QeJIhHOKpOeHhIM pyxa-

rca, XOTR napaziy C 3Tl1M BCTpe'IaeTCH 11 CO'IeTaHl1e BhIIIIl1BKl1 C TKaHhIM opHaMeHTOM. ITo TeXHl1Ke BhIrrOJIHeHl1H MOJI-

BOM CBl1~eTeJIhCTByIOT 0 cassOCTO- AaBCKYIO BhIIIIl1BKy MomHO nonHTeJIhHOM xaparerepe ero paaanpa3AeJIl1Th na ABe OCHOBHhIe rpyrtTl1H. MMeHHO :ITOT Tl1rr pyfiaxn HO- rrsr: TaK aaasraaesrsre c-re-rasre BhICl1JI B HapOAe Hal1MeHOBaHl1e K3MeW3 Mo.n,BoBeUoflCK3

IIIl1BKl1 (ne cjJup AhIBalOw.l1eCH

C3Typ3 pUTYPb KoaCTa -

BhIIIIl1BKa tepeeMaTepl1aJI
(KYCK3-

(MOJIAaBCKaH

TOM) 11BhIIIIl1BKl1, CB060AHO HaKJIa·-

py6axa). B MOJIAaBl1l1 BCTpe'IalOTCH Tpl1 Bapl1aHTa 6axa, rrOKpOH TaKOM py6axl1. pyC BOIToBceMeCTHO pacnpocrpaneaa rrOJIOTHl1I_Q, pensi

uereo» rJIaAh
aKY.n,yu

na

r.nazrs,
C
-

bnt

BhIcTyrraMl1, Tl1rra
BTO-

cTe6eJIh'IaThIM nepaoro

COCTOHI_QaH 113 HeCKOJIhKl1X

IIIOB). xaure poro JIl1

BhIIIIl1BKOM

xoropsre

BMeCTe

acer o BhlrrOJIHHJIl1 pa3JIl1'I-

BepXHeM 'IaCThlO pYKaBOB npncfiona unrypxe 11 06pa3ylOT pOT. BTOPOM aapnarrr TeM, 'ITO pyxaaa pyfiaxn xapaierepen CTOH'Il1M BO-

msre reowe'rprorecrore
paCTl1TeJIhHhIe.

yaopsr,

Ha1160JIee 6hIrro 11 B rJIaAl1aerea no-

ApeBHl1Ml1 Bl1AaMl1 BhIIIIl1BKl1 pa3JIl1'IHhIe npnsraa Bl1AhI, C'IeTHaH, KaHBe. HBl1JIaCh CJIOmHhIM 11 BhIIIIl1BKa

11 BepXHHH 'IaCTh

crcpen.nesrsr

POTHl1KOM, Y OCHOBaHl1H rcoroporo 06pa3YlOTcH rrOCTOHHHhIe CKJIaAKl1. 3TOT Tl1rr pyfiaxn 6hITyeT na BYKOBl1He 11 B paMoHax npocrpanen aHT pyfiaxn JIeB06epemhH me

C cepemnrsr
BhIIIIl1BKa rcpecrora,

XIX

rrpocThIM KOTopaR

3Ha'Il1TeJIhHOM

Mepe

BblTeCHl1JIa

,n:HecTpa, HO B QeJIOM MaJIO pacB MOJIAaBl1l1. TaK C AJIl1HHhIM peAKO BCTpe'IaeTCH TpeTl1M Bapl1pyxaBOM, CKpoeHHhIM B Bl1Ae TpeyrOJIhHl1Ka BMeCTe C 60KOBOM BCTaBKoM. Py6axa KaBOM 'IeM npyrne C QeJIhHOKpOeHhIM pyfioraxe, Tl1rrhl. Ha1160JIee pacopnasren-rapyerca

CTapl1HHYIO r.narrs.

KOHQY XIX nee

aerca B opnaraeaIIIl1pe pacnpoc-

TaQl1l1 py6ax

TpaHHeTcH paCTl1TeJIhHhIM MOTl1B 11306pameHl1e JIl1CTheB, rp03AeM annor-pazta, pacrroJIaraJICH nrrexe QBeTOB. OpHaMeHT B OCHOBHOMB Bl1Ae na oppyrcana. 3Ta

tcnazrpa'ra l1JIl1 nparaoyrorn.nmca norteperc

in the neck and sleeve form. In the North of Bessarabia and in Bukovina, old-style cuts of the tunic-like chemises with a rounded or a squared carved neck were widely used, while on the left riverine it was substituted for a small stand up collar. By the beginning of the 20th century, sleeves, flaring towards the cuffs, could be met with more and more seldom. On the whole, at that period the tunic-like chemises were falling into disuse being substituted for other types - chemises with kimono sleeves and yoked ones. Both in the past and at present, the kimono-sleeved chemise. which can be met with on almost all the terrains, inhabited by the Moldavians, is used most widely. The chemise has a slant seam, running from the gusset up to a small slightly gathered collar. Sometimes a rounded carved neck, gathered with a cord, was cut out instead of the collar. Such a fashion imparts the sleeves a particular shape: gathered and slightly raised, they make the figure wider at the shoulders, and that is why, the waist-line seems to be narrower. Other peculiarities of the fashion of these chemises are common for other types, toothe upper and the lower parts of the chemises are tailored of different materials, and there is a gore in the sleeve-cutting.

38

..-_

Py6axa
co

C LleJIbHOKpOeHbIM pYKaBOM
opHaMeHTOM

HaMeHTaJIhHa.H eTCH aJLTU'43, 0pHaMeHToM TU'43. KH a

BCTaBKa pyfiax n 'K3.lfteUi3

naasraaC TaKHM 'Ky aJLCOBhIWHB-

CTJ1JIJ130BaHHhIM

BpH'iaHCKHH paHOH (rOCYAapCTBeHHbIH MY3eH 3THorpaq,HH HapOAOB CCCP. JIeHHHrpaA) Chemise with kimono sleeves and stylized design from Brichany District (The Museum of Ethnography of the Peoples of the USSR. Leningrad)

Taxoe

paaraeuienne

OTJIW'laeTCJI KOHTpacTHhIM

39

The kimono-sleeved chemise is of an age-old origin. On the bas-relieves of Trajan's Column the Thracian women are depicted in chemises with numerous tucks, fanning out from the neck. Analogous type of cut was widely used by lots of peoples of the Central and Eastern Europe. Antiquity of the fashion with the kimono sleeves, as well as availability of several variants of it, testify to the independent character of the development of this cut. It is this type of the chemise, that was called by the people kamusha moldovenyaska (the Moldavian chemise). One can come across three types of this cut in Moldavia. A chemise, consisting of several widths, which, along with the upper part of the sleeves, are slightly gathered with a cord, and form a neck, is widely used everywhere. The second variant is distinguished for the sleeves and the upper part of the chemise being attached by the upright collar, with permanent pleats, formed at the bottom of it. This type of chemise is current in Bukovina and in the left-strand localities of the Dniester, but on the whole, it is scarcely used in

'feTaHMeM CTKa JIOC M3 TbIM a

npHMoyrOJIhHOrO

yxa-

na

n.nexe

BepTMKaJIbHO KaK

paCnOJIO:meHHbIX

B,nOJIb

(pbtypn).
KOTOPbIX

A.fLTU1P,

pyxaaa nonpaanorraa
BbIUlMrE'OMeT-

JIO. COCTOH.rraM:J ,nByX 'facTeill,

yxpauranaci,
BhITKaHHbIM ITpHMoyrOJIhHMK

paCTMTeJIhHbIM -

opHaMeHTOM,

,npyraH

pM'feCKMM.

na
06KOB

rtne-re paayro
TOPOM

M nOJIOChI B,nOJIh

pyrcaaa

r e,nMHhliII
M

KOMnJIeKC,

rapMOHMyeCKM YKpameHMH Yl ITo

CO'fE'TaIOTCH MOTMB.

uaer
3TOT HbIM

opHaMeHTaJIhHhIiII

BM,n

xapax-repea

TOJIbKO ,nJIH py6ax pYKaBoM BCTpeyaeTCH.

C l.leJIbHOKpOe-

aa ztpyr-nx He cnoeri KOMII03MHBBhICO-

l.lI1Yl COyeTaHMe

a.fLTU'43-PbtYPb

JIHeTCH O,Zl;HMM M3 HaM60JIee B

rcoxynoxeecr-aemrsrx ,Zl;OCTM:meHYli1: nparerrnce HapO,Zl;HhIX MOJI,Zl;aB,Zl;peBHYlillKOMYKpaIlleHMH

CKYlX MaCTepOB.3TOT n03Ml.lMOHHbliII py6ax cppeCKax BeKOB. JIe'fbe M BCTpe'faeTCH

npnera

na

MKOHax,

MYlHMaTlOpax

B
He

TO BpeMH TOJIhKO

XV-XVI yxpanrarm OIIHO

M

:meHCKYlX,

My:mCKMX py6ax. BbICOKOro

OpHaMeHTaJIbHaH

COl.lMaJIhHOrO

norioaeecoxpaThe 3HaTM O,Zl;E':mBepXH.R.R '-IaCTb pyfiaxrr C LleJIbHOKpOeHbIM pYKaBOM (I'ocynapc-raemu.ra KpaeBeA'-IeCKl1W MY3ew MCCP) upper part of chemise (The State with kimono sleeves Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

HYlR 'fe.rrOBeKa. O,Zl;HaKOnOCTeneHHO OHa YTpaTMJIa HMR TOJIhKO M a B CPYHKqMIO, nepeuin 3TOT CMbICJI, M3 KOCTIOMa CBOIO 3CTeTYl'feCKYIO KpeCThRHCKYIO

Moldavia. The third ~ariant of the chemise - with long, triangulatedly cut sleeves, together with side insets, - is a rarity, too. The kimono-sleeved chemise is ornamented more gorgeously than the other types. The most widespread device of chemise decoration was embroidery, though, parallelly with it, one can come across a combination of embroidery with interwoven patterns too. According to the execution devices, the Moldavian stitching can be subdivided in two main groups: the so-called canvas work (pe fir - cross stitch) and embroideries freely applied to a material (kusatura netedd - satin-stitch. in skarituri - bossed satin-stitch, koastu akuluy - catch-stitch). Canvas work was mostly often used for execution of different geometrical designs, while the other kind of stitching - for vegetable ones. The oldest kinds of stitching were different varieties of the satin-stitch: canvas work, smooth satin-stitch, and embroideries on canvas. Simple and complex cross-stitches appeared from the middle of the 19th century, and to a considerable extent ousted the old-style satin-stitch. A vegetable motif - foliage, grape, rose, and other flower representations - became

40

l1.y.

B crpepe

HapOl1.HOrO TBOp'-leCTUa

I1CKYCCTBO 'IaCTl1

yxparrrearra

rrJTe'IeBOH

pyfiaxn

rrO.7IY'Il1.7IO l1.aJ1bHeHl1.0CTl1rHYB B KOHu,e

uree

pa3BI1Tl1e,

60JIbmerO Ha'Ia.7Ie B ~I1H el1.I1HaH

pacrraera XX serca.

rranXIX-

Te'-leHl1e YKpameHI1H

BeKOB py6ax.

C.7IOJKl1.7IaCb MeCTHble

K.7IaCCI1'-1eCKaH KOMrr0311-

aapnam-sr pa3.7II1'Ia.7II1Cb MeJKl1.YCO60M ~BeTOBOM raMMOH, paaraepasnt

3JTeMeHTOB YKpameHI1.f1. 'IeTBepTI1 B nepnori XX sexa B nepnon 06utero ynaznca Tpal1.I1~l10HHOrO KOCero BblTeCHeHI1H rOTOBblMI1 113l1.eJII1HMI1 npOI1COpHaMeHTaJTbBMeCTO CJTOJKOpHaMeHTOB Ol1.I1HaKOBble

TIOMa. X0l1.I1T HblX

¢a6pl1'IHbIMI1

ynpoutenne

HOM KOMrr03l1ql1l1. MHOrO¢l1rypHbIX CTaJTl1 rrpl1MeHHTb CTI1JTl130BaHHbIX TpeX

3JTeMeHThI, COCTOH~l1e l13 p03eTOK, ~eTOB,

xo'rop sre
py-

paCrrOJTaraJII1Cb B BI1l1.e xaanpar a 11 BepTl1KaJTbHbIX B HaCTO.fl~ee B a nOJTOCna

rcaae,

BpeMH B COBpeKOCTIOMe ¢opMe

MeHHOM aJl,TU1.f'J He
¢parMeHT TKaHOrO reOMeTp"'leCKOrO OpHaMeHTa

KpeCTbHHCKOM

Tpal1.l1~HOHHOH

rrpl1MeHHCTCH

py6ax, B BepXHeH qaCTH pYKaBa meHCKoH py6axH (foCYAapCTBeHHbli1 KpaeBeAqeCKHi1 MY3ei1 MCCP) Fragment of WOVen geometrical design in the upper part of women's chemise sleeve (The State Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

l1..7IH yapauremra aaMeHHeTCH rrpOCTblM 0l1.0pHaMeHToM. CBH3b B C

HOTOHHbIM Tpal1.I1~l1eM pa3Me~eHl1H Tpex

coxparrae'rca
opnaraem-a

cnocofie
B Bl1l1.e

rrpOl1.O.7IbHbIX rrOJTOC.

noc-

JIel1.Hl1e rozrsr XYl1.OJKHI1KI1,

npocpeccnoaarn.asre pa60TalO~l1e B 06-

41

more and more widely used in chemise ornamentation by the end of the 19th century. Squarewise or in rectangle form, the decor was mainly situated at the shoulder across the sleeves. This ornamental inset is called a1titso, while the chemises with such patterns - kumrstu: ku a1titsn.Such an arrangement of stitching is distinguished for a contrasting interchange of the rectangular part on the shoulder and stripes vertically disposed along the sleeve (riuri). A1titsa consisted, as a rule. of two pieces. one of them being decorated with a stitched vegetable design, and the other - with an interwoven geometrical one.The rectangle on the shoulder and the stripes along the sleeve form a single complex, in which the colour and ornamental motif harmoniously combine. This kind of ornamentation is characteristic only Of the chemises with the kimono sleeves, and doesn't occur with the other ones. According to its composition, the combination a1titsa-riuri is one of the most artistic achievements in the practice of the Moldavian folk craftsmen. This is an antique composition device which can be met with on the icons, frescoes and miniatures of the 15th -- 16th centuries. At that time, there were decorated shoulders of both chemises and camises. An ornamental inset served as an index of a high social status of a person.

meHlll,I1Ha paMOHOB

B Tpa,n;I1u,110HHOM Mon,n;aBl1l1

KOCTIOMe

ceaeprrsrx regions

Woman in traditional of Moldavia

costume

of northern

TpaJvnV1oHHbI" opaawen-r aJlTU'lf3-Pb'YPb na PYKaBax meHCKHx py6ax (roCYAapCTBeHHblU KpaeBeA'leCK"" MY3eu MCCP) Tr ad i tional design ol t itee-r-uur at the sleeves of women's chemises (The State Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

43

Gradually it had lost this meaning, however, and retained only its aesthetical function and had passed from the garb of persons of rank to the peasants' clothes. In the sphere of creative folk work, the skill of chemise shoulder ornamentation was developed further on, and reached the peak of its flourishing at the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th century. In the course of centuries, a uniform classical composition of chemise decoration has been established. The local variants differed in the range of colour, decorative element sizes. Simplification of the ornamental composition took place in the first quarter of the 20th century, in the period of the general decay of the traditional costume, and its supplantation for ready-made factory ware. Instead of complex, many-figured patterns, they began using uniform elements, consisting of rosettes, fleurettes, situated squarewise on shoulders, and in the form of three vertical stripes on sleeves. At present, in the contemporary peasants' costume, altitsa is no more used in its traditional form for chemise decoration, and is substituted for a simple self-coloured pattern. The connexion with the tradition is retained in the arrangement of the decor - in the form of three longitu-

¢lparMeHT

BhIlllJ1BKl1

reOMeTpl1QeCKl1paCTl1TeJIhHOrO OpHaMeHTa

na ortnexee meHcKoi1 pyfiaxn (TeJIeHeIllTcKI1i1 paaon) Fragment of embroidery of geometrical and vegetable design at the shoulder of women's chemise (Teleneshty District)
reOMeTpl1'I.J:eCKldi

opnaseen-r,
COCTaBJIHIO~J1ti "IaCTb

aJtTu1t3

(JJ;oHAlOlllaHCKI1i1 pajioa) Geometrical ornament comprising a part of alt;t.." (Dondyushany District)

ill . ~111-.tH1· ~~t

d
'I

'1

'I.

46

reOMeTpl1'I.J:eCKI1H opHaMeHT c .n;peBHJ1Ml1 Cl1MBOJIJ1'ieCKJ1Ml1 3JIeMeHTaMl1

na pyxaae meHcKoi1 pyfiaxa (KaYlllaHCKl1i1 pation) Geometrical ornament with ancient symbols at the sleeve of women's chemise (Kaushany District)
¢parMeHT BbIllll1BKl1

reOMeTpJ1'I.J:eCKOrO opHaMeHTa

ua pyxase meHcKoi1 pyfiaxrr (BPW-IaHCKl1i1 pai1oH) Fragment of embroidery of geometrical design at the sleeve of women's chemise (Brichany District)

..~~x~:.:x~:-:~~~~ .
.

"t-

49
4>parMeHT
reOMeTpHQeCKOrO

opHaMeHTa Ha meHCKOH py6axe (EpHQaHCKHH paHoH) Fragment of geometrical urnament at women's chemise (Br ichany District) CTapHHHbIH cpnaxenr Ha meHcKoH py6axe (q"MHlllJI"HCK"H pajiorr) Ancient ornament at women's chemise (Chimishliya District)
4 Jib", N,27

<l>parMeHT
reOMeTpJPleCKOro

oprraraen ra a.nTu't3 (CYBOPOBCKHl1 pal1oH) Fragment of geometrical ornament

altit.'u..>

(Suvor-ov Dist rrnt) <l>parMeHT TKaHoro

reOMeTpHQeCKOrO

opnasren-ra na orme=n-e
)KeHCKOJ1

py6axJ1 (KaYIllaHCKJ1l1 paaon) Fragment of woven geometrical ornament at the shoulder of women's chemise (Kaushany District)

52

PaCTHTeJIbHbli1

opHaMeHT na orrne=rse ",eHcKoi1 pyfiaxn (EAJ1HelIKJ1i1 pai10H Vegetable ornament at the shoulder of women's chemise (Yedintsy Dist rrct )

JI;tCTVl xvnoxcccruemu.rx .:IOB, .n;eJIalOT TUlp. B cerrax

npOMbICnOnbITKVl

npa3.n;HI1'-1Hhle -

60JIee

60raTO

11

ycneuun.ie

paanoofipaaao .

BOCC'TClHOH)WI-IVlR Op~IaMeHTa

a.nIIpl11'0pac-

JKEHIlJ;J1HhI
TO'-lKVl (K."!.J1,-lew.) fiaxrr,

HOCl1JII1 lI1.nl1 ue).

Tc\KfKe KO<:j:l-

6e.nbIC' opHaMeHTl1pOBaHHbIe JIeB06epemHOrO HIVIOTb zto 60-x 6bI JlRJIR.nI1Cb nepxnen

OHI1 KClK Hl1mK nexa B

.n;l-It"CTPOBbR(PbI61I11l..\KVli1:,KaMeHCKVli1: patiom.r) fIpOCTpaHeHbI KpOeHbIM rr.nevrn x MeCTHbIX Opl-laMeHTOM .n;OR HClIJIerO CTO.neTVlR 6bIJIVl pyfiaxn B C

'-IClCTblO PY-

0'1' KOTOPOi1: o-rpeaaua pvfiaxn (1C3.lIlew3).

HJlR. 11 B CBR:311 3Tl1M COXpaHJI.nl1 C Ha3BaHl1e KOHI\V Tl1nbI Mo.n.n;aBI1I1

l..\eJIbHOna

PYKaBOM, 111 pyKClBClX. Bapll1LlIITOB

YKpaWeHHbIl' 3TO Oll,VlH Vl3

XIX-

ua-ra.ny

XX

BII1.n;e P03L'TOK

nOHBI1JII1Cb

11 zrpyr-ne

nO.nOTtH!HLIX

Ko<:j:lTO'-leK.c06I1JII1 na

KOMnO:3I1l..\VlIl1 pamn.re pyfiax n nonce.

BHVl3y na peanmce,

aJl"/'Wf·J-PbLYPb.
11 caazrefim-re. CTOR'-I111 ii .nO)Klloi1:. 6ax

TClKI1t-' 06bI'-IHO

Florsepx

pyfiaxn

R 6y.n;HII1'-1HaneBa.nl1

npl1HRTO HUCI1Tb KaK npa3.n;I1I1'-1HbIC BOpOTlII1K. pemc -OT-

HbH-' ll,HI-1 KpeCTbRHKI1 Tbl. Mx rroicpofi

m OHI1 II1MeK)T I{O<:j:lTO'-lI{I1. ClKl'TbI. '-Ipe3BbI'-Iai1:Ho Bapbl1pOBaJII1

6.TIY3bI. fKl1.ne11

11 Hal1MeHOBal-ll1R pCl:3~I006pa:3Hhl

OCOfiel-il-lOCTblO 3TII1X PYY KI1CTI1 nu-riC pacunapsuo KY

.HBJI.HeTC.H C06paHHhIi1:

no

06JIaCTJlM. TVlnOM B B cerro. TKaHl1. 106KI1.

IJIVlPOKVlM pYKaB C.H MaHmeTOM.

Pac upoc-r-panenrn.n-r
BepxHeM KOHqC Onem.n;bl, aexa Vl3

Pyfiaxrt

3'1'01'0 Tl1na .IlIUHKeT.

npOHI1KIIIei1: TeMHOM co

HCl3bIBClHlTCR K3.J1,-leW:J B

XIX

113 ropozra

XIX

BeKe B OT.n;eJIhHbIX ce.n ax yeazioa

6bI.TICl KO<pTa KOTOPYIO OHa TCl.nl1eH.

l..\eHTpaJIbHbIX

Beccapafinn
pvccxoro

HOCI1JII1 nonepx

nOl~ BJ1l1RHl1eM o.n;e)K,l\LI .nacr. py6axa nexa

I1Me.na rtoxpoii

CR060.n;~IOj,i

11 YKPClI1HCKOro HClC('.neHI1R nOJlBI1C .n;ByMR n.Tlt''-Il'BbIMI1

rryr-onmn-r

pacno.noxcem-r .n;0Hl13Y, pyKHI1uT.riomHb!M

B O.n;I1H pR.n; CB€PXY

BCTaBKaMI1.

Co

BTOPOi1: nOJIOBI1HbI KOKL'T-

KaB np.HMOM, cymI1BalOll{I1MC.H ay. BOPOTHI1K MOl' 6bITb 1·1.'111 npurrozm RTbIM

XIX
xe

1III1POKO(, pacrrpoc-rpane-

HVlt~ nO.:1 \"1 IVI Vl PYOClXI1 ua (K3.J1,-leW.·, K.IJ neTuK),

B BI1.n;e Y3KOM JlB.nR-

KOTOPbH' BI1.n;('

IIO:IOCKI1 TKaHI1. D:JIJI KO<:j:lTbI ClKoro T TI1IICl XClpClKTepHOM '-IepTOM lOTC'JI KOKeTKa me ecero 11 BepTI1Ka.nbHbIC' 6aMKa. KO<:j:lTbI

TaKme

Yl<paIIICl.IIVl no.nocr.r,

opHaMeHTOM: 06paMJI.H1OCTOpOH,

6y.n;HI1'-1Hble HeWl1pOKOM IJJ;eM KOKeTKY

HLILllVlH KOM B C 'Il'Tblpex

COOPKI1 Ha rpy.n;l1. MClTepI1Cl.nOM '-IClCJIyml1JIa

5.1

dinal stripes. In recent years, professional artists, working in the field of artistry, successful attempts in the restoration of the olt iu«: pattern.

make

In the villages of the left Dniester-bank (the Rybnitsa. Kamenka Districts), right up to the 60s of our century, chemises with kimono sleeves, patterned in the way of rosettes, placed on the shoulders and sleeves, were used on a large scale. This is one of the local variants of the altitsa-riuri composition. It is customary to put on such chemises as festival and bridal ones. Normally they have a stand up collar. sometimes a turn down one. A full, gathered at the hand sleeve with a flaring cuff is another peculiarity of these chemises. This type of chemises is called kcntu-sha ku minket. A chemise with two shoulder insets appeared in the 19th century in several villages of the central districts of Bessarabia under the impact of the Russian and Ukrainian population. Beginning from the second half of the 19th century, yoked chemises (kamf'sha ku petik] became largely used, which were patterned, too: everyday ones - with embroidery, framing the yoke on the four sides, while gala chemises - more gorgeously and variegatedly.

rro,nOOHO[,O rrOKpCUI 6bIJIM OC06eHHO Ha'-laJIe

pacnpocrpanenr-r XX aexa

B KOH~e

XIXB

11 rrp1106peJI11

~OJI.naB11M

XapaKTep

HapO.nHOM

O.nem.nbL K cepemrae XX aerca OH11 BbIIJIJI11 113 yno-r-pefi.ne aua. Hapa.ny C H11M11HOC11JI11 BH3aHbIe 11JI11 CepbIe KOCPTbI BeCT3.

6eJIbIe

JlCOpC.~,U./LU'K,

TaKme CK11M, me

TepM11H BeCT3 rrp11MeHHJI11 .nJIH 0603Ha'-leHMH m11JIeTOB

TeMHOrO UBeTa aHaJIOrH'-lHbIX CIll11TbIX 113 urepc-r-anoti ~BeTa

r-ryxc-

.nOMOTKaHOM

MaTep1111. HOC11JI11TaKJI11CPbI TE'MHOrO TKaH11. IIorrpOCTbIM op-

11 nar-pyzrmste

113 rrOJIOTHa 11JI11rroKyrrHow

XJIorr'-laTo6YMamHOM JIbI JI11cpa YKpaWaJI11

HaMeHTOM B B11.ne anraar-cotipaaHbIX JI11H11M. OCHOBHOPI 113 pyfiaxn KOMIlJIeKC MOJI.naBCKOM :lKJ2HCKOM o.nem.nbI .na .no6aBJIHJICH K11'KaTpU1i1t3.

COCTOHJI HaM60T11rr 106C060M orrs-

11lO6K11,K KOTOpOM11Horrrepezrnarc.

.nee pacrtpoc-rpanentn.rri
KaTpU1i1t3

npenc-raarrae-r
nparaoyr

~eJIbHbIM
}KeHll.\HHa B py6axe "'''Maw" "'Y CTeJte (KaMeHCKJ1iipanon) Woman in a chemise with kamesha ku stele ornament (Kamenka District) meHll.\J1Ha B npaamraunora capadiane (KaMeHcKHii panon) Woman in holiday (Kamenka District) sarafan sun-frock

Hecw11TbIM

HbIM reycorc TKaH11, KOTOPbIM Hazrenaro-r, 060pa'-l11BaH norcpyr KOprryca xozutna .npyr11M TaK, na 'iTo6bI ozraa IlOJIa Ha11

zipyryro.

HOC11JI11 ee

crtocofior-r

3aKJIa.nbIBaH orrpe.neB TOM, JI(,-

o.nHY rroJIY 3a rrOHC (6e3 JIeHHOM 3aKoHoMepHocT11 KaKYlO rrOJIY 3aKJIa.nbIBaTb

55

WOMEN were wearing white ornamented blouses (kamf!sha or iyPl. They allegedly used to be the upper piece of a chemise, the lower one being cut off, and in connection with this having retained the name of the chemise (1camesha). Other types of linen blouses. gathered with elastic at the bottom or sashed, appeared in Moldavia by the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th century. On weekdays, over chemises, peasant women had blouses, spencers, overblouses, and waist-coats on. Their fashions and denominations were especially diverse and varied within every region. Women's jackets of dark fabric, worn over skirts, presented a widespread type of the upper garments. which penetrated from towns into villages at the end of the 19th century. It had a full-waisted cut, buttons arranged in a single file from top to bottom, with a straight sleeve. tapered downwards. A collar could be a turn down one, or a slightly raised, of a fabric-strip shape. A yoke and vertical gathers at the breast are a distinctive feature for a blouse of the type. Baize served. predominantly, as a material for it. Blouses of this fashion were most widely used at the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th century, and assumed in Moldavia the character of the national vestiture. By the middle

ayro

W3111 npaayro}, C ,gByMR

HO BO MHOr11X OnYll(eHHbIM11 n031R 'KaTpU1ilj,3 O,g11H MeTp np11 BbIC()Te aepx-

HRR

"laCTb

caofiozma

OT Y30pOB.

Ce31ax -

OT3111"l11e OT rre paoro pU1ilj,.1, KOTOPYlO

Bap11aHTa 'KaT-

n031aM11. Llhrpnna COpOK

TKa3111 06bI"lHOM T11na Bbln031HR31l1-

COCTaB31ReT B cpeznrera CaHT11MeTpOB

peM113HOM TeXII11KOM, C310JKHble P11CyHK11 a ropor-o BbI60PHOM BepHbIX opHaMeHT11K11 TeXH11KoM. panonoa

BOCeMb,geCRT CaHT11MeTpOB.B HeM "laCT11 K xpor-nce Hew11pOK11M nORCo !06KY wepCT11 wop xy K11». pea .rree «B

np11II111Ba1f1T TKa3111 na

B'roporr T11n xaparcrepen ,g31R ceM031,gaB1111 11 HOBOCe3111IJ;KOrO

«arirunu» .n y-nuero
./Lht1i3).

ro113

M031,gaBCK11X cerr 11XOT11HCKoro

p1130HTaJIbHOM

TKaIJ;KOM CTaHKe Ka"leCTBa

paMOHOB QepHOB11IJ;-

oe

(nepu-

KOM 0631aCT11. P11CYHOK npe,gCTaB31ReT C060M tcpyrm PO:1bI, 'BblW11Tble TbIM11. H11"lHble 'KaTpU1ilj,3 ,gByx-Tpex

WCn031b3YR TeXH11nonnoxcTPxH11Ke

ere IJ;BeTbI, "laCTO

KpaCHbIM11, JKe31-

,gBe

I1JIW "leTblpe 3Cl.K31a,gHoM

Ilpu

C11H11M11 H11TRM11. IJ;BeTOB, yxparnas

Ilpaazr11X He

IJ;BeTHble H11TK11 nponYCKa3111 He <reBClO W11p11Hy OCHOBbl.

Hanfio-

TKa3111113 H11TeM

pacnpocr-panenm.rsr
KOTOpylO

T11n 'KaT"lepHylO lO6KY C

T031bKO CTPOf11M11 BepT11Ka31bHbIM11 113111 rop1130HTa31bHbIM11 3111H11RM11, opna113111 H11TRHO 11C310JKHbIM11opHaMeTa31bHbIM11 KOMn0311IJ;11RM11,a 11HOf,ga MeHTOM M11. KpoMe 'KaTpU1ilj,3 BCTpe"la31aCb 113 HO pacnerca ce.nax ¢apTYKOB, KOHIJ;e XIX TaKJKe zrayx OHa lO6Ka gJOT3, COCTORBwaR 113 IJ;BeTHOro 30310TbIM11 11 cepe6pRHbIM11

pU1ilj,3,

HOC 1131 B 6y,gH11e 11

,g1I11, npe,gCTaB.JIR31 C060M 113111TeMHO-KOp11"lHeBYlO HeCK031bK11M11 JKe OObI"lHO KpacHbIM11, PI1:10HTaJIbHbIM11 no rtepaor-r np11eMaM ,ge31RlOTCR zrsa "laCT11 pa3HbIX we B

BepT11Ka31bHbIM11, n0310CaM11. PeC roBhl-

611cepa

BCTpe'-!a3111Cb 'KaTpU1ilj,::l n0310CaM11. YKpaweH11R

T11na

'KaT·pU1ilj,3.

wepCTRHbIX B

n031e lO6K11 ,ge3111Tcir na zrse IJ;BeTOB BepXHlOlO 6031bB "lepHbIM

11Me31a OrpaHI1:"leHHOe

11 H11JKHlOlO. BepXHRR

xacrr,

npOCTpb.HeH11e.

TaK11e lO6K11 HOC113111 T031bKO na tor-e

H11JKHeM 11orcparrrerra KpaCHbIM

Beccapafinn
Ha cenepe. T3 6bIJIa na'r se, .nax Hoe

11 B HeKOTopbIX Ha116031ee

113111 TeMHO-C11H11MIJ;BeT, H11JKHRR113111 CBeT310-C11H1111. B 31eBaR 11 rrpaaaa nepcpezra lO6K11 nOKpbITbI rtpyr'ora Bap11aHTe

W11POKO

ifJo-

pacrtpocrpanena
r,ge

B 3aKap-"

a TaKJKe

B M031,gaBCK11X ceHOC1131a MeCT-

"laCT11 n031R

EYKOB11HbI, Ha3BaH11e

T11Ka31bHbIM opHaMeHTOM,

3aoue.

of the 20th century they got out of use. White or grey knit women'sjackets and sleeveless jackets - zh.crrs ua, ilik, Vf'sta - were worn parallelly with them. The term Vf'sta was also used to denote dark waist-coats, analogous to men's ones made of homespun stuff. Dark breast-coats (breast-deep buttonless waist-coat) of cloth or purchased cotton were worn, too. The skirts of breast-coats were ornamented with a simple decor in the shape of zigzag lines. THE MAIN complex of the Moldavian women's vestiture consisted of a chemise and a skirt, with an apron sometimes added to it. Katrint.wI is the most popular type of skirts Katrintsa represents a one-piece, seamless, rectangular piece of cloth, which was pul on in the way of wrapping it around the body, so, that the laps would overlap. It was worn otherwise, too, - tucking a lap behind a girdle (without a certain conformity as to which lap should be tucked - a left or a right one); in many villages, however, they used to wear katrintsa with two laps turned down. The width of the kutrintsa's lap constituted, on the average, a metre and forty centimetres its length being eighty centimetres. In the upper part, a sash of a moderate width would be sewn to the selvage.

56

BepxHHH meHCKaH o,llem,lla Tpa,llIHI"oHHoro noxpoa (KaMeHCK"" pajiorr) Women's outdoor clothes of traditional type (Kamenka District)

C03,gaHl1e ,gaBCKOrO Tl1rra

e,gl1HOrO

06IJJ;eMOJImeHKUT-

3TOM QaCTl1 Tl1rra

CKOM O,IIem,gbI rrp01130111JIO na OCHOBe cenepOMOJI,gaBCKoro

PU1i'43,

rca ,gJIH

KOTOPbIM K KOH~y XIX BeCTaJI xapax'repnoir o,gem,goM

Beccapafinn

11 patroaon

JIeBo20-

fiepeacnor-o

IIpl1,gHecTpoBbH.K

30-M ronam XX aerca KUTpU1i'43 6bIJIa BbITeCHeHa 113 OCTaJIbHbIX 30H I06KOM ropozrcxoro TJ1IIa 11COXpaHl1-

57

The katrint.Wl skirt was woven of a top quality wool (perishor de lyna) on a horizontal loom, using "two- or four-treadle" technique. With a counter-Iining technique. coloured sewings were not entirely threading the width of the warp. The most widely used type of a katrintsa, worn on weekdays. presented a black or a dark-brown skirt, with a few vertical, usually red stripes. Katrintsa with horizontal stripes occurred more seldom. According to decoration devices, two types of katrintsa skirts may be singled out. In the first one, the ground of the skirt is divided into two parts of different colours: the upper and the lower. The upper part is larger than the lower one and is dyed black or dark-blue, while the lower one is red or light-blue. According to the other variant the left and righl parts of the skirt's ground are overlaid with a vertical pattern, while the middle part remained free from decors. Unlike the first variant of the katrintsa, woven according to a customary harness technique, complex designs of the other type were executed according to the selective technique. This type of ornamentation is characteristic of the Northern districts of Moldavia, and the Moldavian villages of the Novoselitsky and Khotin Districts of the Chernovtsy Region. The design represents large flowers, often

JIaCb TOJIbKO ua TMI1a 1WTpU1ilp rce 6bITOBaJIM noro COCTOHJIM M3

cesepe

MOJTJJ:aB~H1.
113

}KeHcKaH

npa3~HHqHaH

mHneTKa

HapHJJ:Y C HeCllH1TbIMM lO6KaMM M rj'JOT3 B M lO6KM

XIX

Be-

coaperaenI10JIOT-

I10KPOH (rjjyCT3).

OHM 06bl'-IHO

urepcrnaoa TKaHI1, BbIllll1TaH fil1CepOM (KarynhCK"M MCTOP"KO-KpaeBe~qeCK"M MY3eM) Women's holiday woolen waist coat decorated with beads (The Kagul Historic and Local Lore Museum)

HeCKOJIbKMX

roses, embroidered in red, yellow and blue threads. Festival katrintsa skirts were woven of two- or three-colour sewings, being decorated not only with austere vertical or horizontal lines, but also with complex ornamental compositions. Sometimes, holiday skirts were decorated with a pattern of variegated beads or gold and silver threads. Besides kairmtsa women wore the skirt jota, consisting of two woollen aprons, but it had a limited spread. At the end of the 19th century it turned up only in the South of Bessarabia and in a few villages in the North. Fota was mostly widespread in the Transcarpathians, and also in Moldavian villages of Bukovina, where it went under the local appel ation of ztuiup-, Creation of a unique Moldavia-wide 19th century became a traditional left-bank Dniester, other zones by the skirt of
0

58

type of this piece of women's garments type of the katrintsa, for Bessarabia and the littoral the kmrmiso

has occurof the

red on the basis of the North Moldavian vestiture By the 20s-30s

which by the end of the districts was ousted out of

of the 20th century,

townish fashion, and survived

only in the North of Moldavia.

HMlll, MJIM 113,o;BYX nOJIOTHMlll, C ,0;06aBJIeHI1eM KMX 1060K KJII1HheB. Ha

nozton
CMHMe,

Ta-

qaCTO HalllMBaJIM

l\BeT-

nr.re B

JIeHThI -KpaCHhle, KOHl\e

ae-

.nerrsre.

XIX aexa rrOHBMJICH uaneaa rr. nonepx 106KM rrOJIOTHHHhli1. nepezmax, 3aBH3hIBalOlll,Mi1.cH na noace.v-> neCTe.nK3.
06hp·Iai1. TaK me KaK M rOJIOBHoi1. rrOKa3aTeJIeM COQMTOJIhrrOJIOmeHMH. HOCMTh ./KeHlll,MHa CJIymMJI

IIepe,o;HMK,

yfiop,

aJIhHOrO HaqMHaJIa

nepemnne
B

KO rrOCJIe CBa,o;h6hI, 'ITO CBM,o;eTeJIbCTBOBaJIO 0 ee pMIO 3aMymHMx HI1K KJ1 ,o;peBHHH B CJIaBHHCKMX

nepexozte
qaCTh

meHlll,MH.

reareroIlepezro,o;em,o;h~

napozron,

opramorec-

aourernuaa

COCTaB MOJI,o;aB-

cxoro napozrnoro KOCTIOMa. B nporunora rrepezmmc 6hIJI caMOCTOHTeJIhHoi1. noacnori o,o;em,o;oi1., KOTOPYIO HOCMJIJ1 rronepx pyfiaxn. BO BTOPOIlI: rrOJIOBMHe XIX aexa nozt BJII1HHl1eM ropozrcxosi MO,o;hI B ,o;epeBHe rrOHBMJIMCh rtnaThH (poxue). Hx HOCJ1JIM rrpensry:iKeHcKaH npa3;D;HI1'iHaH KOmaHa.H 6e3pYKaBKa

lll,eCTBeHHO B6JIM3J1

KpecThHHKM,

mMBWJ1e

(KaHTeMJipCKJiir paaoa) Women's (Kantemir holiday leather District) sleeveless jacket

ropozroa.

l\eJIOM

nrrar

i,e

B MOJI,o;aBCKOM ce.ne HaqaJIO KO

WMpO-

pacrrpoc-rpaua'rr-ca
ocofienno

C na-ra.na

XX

aexa,

rrOCJIe YCTaHOBJIeqaCTh TaKme y reaprtna'r-se

HMH COBeTcKoi1. BJIaCTM. KaK napozraosi yKpaWaJII1, o,o;emp:hI BhIlllMBaH

yaopsr

.59

Side by side with seamless skirts of katrintsa and Jota type, skirts of the modern style were current in the 19th century. They consisted, as a rule, of a few widths or two widths, supplemented with gores. The lap of such skirts was often red-, green- and blueribboned.
(fusta)

The custom of wearing a tied at the waist linen apron - pesu-lko. - over a skirt, arose later in the 19th century. The apron, just as soon as a head-dress, served as a specific social status index. A woman began wearing an apron only after the wedding, which evidenced her passage to another age-group, and her status of a married woman. The apron is an ancient piece of garments of the Slavonic nations, which has formed an organic part of the Moldavian national costume. In the foretime the apron was an independent waist garment, worn over a chemise. Frocks (rokiye) appeared in the village in the second half of the 19th century, under the impetus of the townish vogue. But they were worn only by the peasant women living near towns. On the whole, frocks in the Moldavian villages became widely used only from the early 20th century, especially after the establishment of the Soviet Power. As a part

}KeHcKaH nOBCe~HeBHaH (JIeoBCIO!i< patson) Women's everyday (Leovo District) leather

KO~aHaH

6eapYKaBKa jacket

sleeveless

,l(eBYlUI<a B npa3.l1HliQHOfi Tpa.llli4lioHHol1 oneaezie, xapascrepnoa .lIJIH aa-rana XX aexa (BpliQaHCI<lifi patioa. CHliMOI< 1982 r.) Young woman in holiday traditional vestiture typical for the early 20th century (Brichany District. Photo of 1982)·

of the national garment, ning the laps.

frocks were decorated

as well, patterning

the pockets, or ribbo-

60

SARAFANS (sun-frocks) occurred in several districts of Moldavia (Vulkaneshty - in the South, Kamenka and Rybnitsa in the North of Moldavia). Sarafans were toilored of a close woollen texture. They were called differently: in the Rybnitsa and Kamenka Districts - sharafan, in Vulkaneshty - fusta ku shubya, but the cut was the same - a straight one with a bodice. The upper part fitted closely around the waist. the skirt was wider, the neck was rounded, with a longitudinal cutting. Saratans were worn by women of all ages. Holiday saraf'ans were made of expensive stuffs. The close-fitting upper part of the sarafan (stan) had a low neck with a cutting in front. The stuff in the upper part was slightly kilted and seamed up. This device of a frock ornamentation is called pel ya gainey (hen's skin), while in the Ukrainian villages it was named brezhchyky. Blue ribbons were sewn at the back of a sarafan, forming a simple design, resembling semicircles and an angle.

MaHOB

J1JIJ1 HalllJ1BRH

JIeHTbI

na

}KeHcKaH Women's

11OAOJIe.

Ko~aHaH 6e3pYKaBKa (Hncnopeacxnn paaon)

OT,UEJIhHhIX
na

(BYJIKaHelllTCKOM -

paironax rore, KaHa ce-

leather sleeveless jacket (Nisporeny District)

MeHCKOM H PbI6HHl~KOM -

aepe MOJIAaBHH) BCTpeqaJIHCb caparpanr-i. STOT BHA OAeJKAbI He 6bIJI xaparerepen AJIH acex 30H

The lower part of a sarafan (poale) presents a flared long skirt, gathered at the rear. Velvet ribbons were sewn onto the skirt laps, their number having a certain meaning. There was a custom, according to which a girl of a marriageable age sewed on her sarafan three ribbons, while juvenile girls' wore sarafans with one or two ribbons. Girls would girdle their sarafans with scarlet sateen sashes, fifteen-twenty centimetres wide (briu mare). A few blue ribbons were usually tied over the sash. Women wore a machine-woven narrow woollen sash. The sarafan was girdled so, that the lap of it would be slightly raised and the laces of an underskirt, put on under the sarafan, could be seen. Another kind of a sarafan existed, too, which was termed in Ukrainian zupaskii. It was characteristic of this type of sarafan that the upper and the lower pieces differed not only in colour, but in cloth quality. too (the upper piece was made of a purchased fabric, while the lower - of a homespun one). Sarafans fell into disuse in the 50-60s of the 20th century. At present. the analogous sarafan is current in the Moldavian village of Djurdjuleshty, the Vulkaneshty District. Over there such a sarafan is called justa ku zhubia, and possesses even more archaic traits than that of Kamenka. While the sarafans of Kamenka are

62

MOJI)1;aB1H1. cpaHbI HOM TKaHM.

BY)1;HWIHble Ha3BaHMe MX

capaa6bIJIO

WMJIM M3 rrJIOTHOM rnepcr B PbI6HMU;KOM M pairortax -

pa3JH1'IHbIM: MeHCKOM B

Ka-

BYJIKaHelllTCKOM

mapaifJaH, ifJYCT3 Ky
BM)1;OB 6bIJI

JlC106R. IIoKpoM O)1;MH TOT me M BepXH.fI.fI TaJIMlO, KpyrJIbIM 'IaCTb lO6Ka C

pa3HbIX

rrp.HMOM C JIMCPOM. rrJIOTHO o6JIeraJIa pacumpeaa, BOPOT BCeX paapeaora. caparpacaparpana

rrp.flMbIM

Caparpan
HbI lllMJIM

HOCMJIM meH~MHbI M3 zroporoir 'IaCTb lllei1Hbli1 TKaHb

B03paCTOB. IIpa3)1;HM'IHble TKaHM. BepXH.fI.H HMeJIa arrepenn.

WepCT.HHoi1

(CTaH)
Hei1 STOT Ewma),

ar.rpea

C B

paapeaoxr MeJIKMe

B BepX-

'IaCTH rrpMeM B

CTaHa

nprrcfiopena

CKJIa)1;KM M npocrpo-rena. yxpauiemrn 23U}ieU O)1;em)1;bI (KypMHaH ce.nax ero

Ha3bIBRJIC.H ne.nR Ha3bIBaJIM

YKpaMHCKMX 6peJIC>iUKu. rrpl1lllMBaJIM

crrmnce

capacpana

CMHMe JIeHHM1Knpezi-

TbI, 06pa3YlO~Me aa

HeCJIOmHbli1 yaop M yr.na.

B BM)1;errOJIYKpyroB
¢parMeHT annJIMKaQMM 113 KOmI{ :H<:eHCKOH

H.fI.fI 'IaCTb caparpaaa CTaBJI.fIJIa co60i1

(noane]

6e3pYKaBKe Leather cut-out jacket. Detail at the women's sleeveless

MHOrOKJIMHHYlO CO c60pKaMM JIeHTbI, C3a-

)1;JIMHHylO lO6KY )1;M. Ha BaJIM fiapxar 3Ha'IeHMe. HalllMBaJIM

rrOJIbI lO6KM 06b1'IHO HaWM-

nere

rrpM'IeM 06bI'IaM, TpM

MX KOJIM'IeCTBO MMeJIO CMbICJIOBOe Cy~ecTBOBaJI na rro KOTOPOMY JJ:eBYlllKM na BbI)1;aHbe CBOM caparpaa

63

sewn of purchased textiles, those of Djurdjuleshty are made of a black homespun material. The sarafan, widespread in the riverain localities of the Dniester and in the South of Moldavia, is an age-old constituent of the Moldavian clothes which had appeared under the influence of Slav culture. At the beginning of the 20th century, in the villages of the Kaushany and Orgeyev Districts, under the impetus of the garments of the Russian population, straight-cut, shoulder-strapped saraf'ans of the townish style became practised on a large scale. In the Transcarpathians such saratans were called shorts. In cold seasons women's jackets were put on over chemises or sarafans. DIFFERENT types of shoulder garments, worn thrown open over chemises, are characteristic of women's, just as soon as men's garb. Waist-coats were put on in a warm season, sheepskin sleeveless jackets, sheepskin coats and over-coats - in winter. In cold seasons women put on long woollen fur-trimmed sleeveless jackets (mintYllnash) or short coatees (skurteyka, sukmanel!. A large wool-knit shawl, which was used for wrapping oneself up in a cold season, was preserved as an old-style garment type. Waist-coats were sewn of dark close wool, or wool-knit. Fur sleeveless jackets (bonda, bonditsa, peptoT)

JIeHTbI,

p;eBYIllIUI-rrop;pOCTKJ1rrOArrOHCbIBaJIJ1 CM caMa-

OAHY J1JIJ1p;Be. ,UeBYlllKJ1 parpaa KpaCHbIM CaTJ1HOBbIM non-

COM lllJ1PJ1HOi1 15-20

(6pbtY

pe).

Iloaepx

nonca

06bP-IHO

rrOBHa-

3bIBaJIJ1 meH~J1HbI

HeCKOJIbKO

CJ1HJ1X JIeHT. na CTaHKe. TaKJ1M crrepezni na-

HOCJ1JIJ1 Y3KJ1i1 urepcr rrop;rrOHCbIBaJIJ1 '-IT06bI nono,n

HOi1 rrOHC, BbITKaHHbIi1

Caparpan
o6pa30M,

6bIJI rrpJ1rrOAHHT J1BJ1AHeJIJ1Cb KPYJKeBa HJ1JKHei1 106KJ1, KOTOpylO p;eBaJIJ1 nozt BaJI TaKJKe KOTOPbIi1 TepMMHoM caparpan. APyroi1 3anaCK3.

Cyrnecr-aoYKpaJ1HCKJ1M ,UJIH 3Toro HB-

BJ1P; caparparra,

Ha3blBaJIJ1

BJ1Aa capadiana

xaparerepnsm

JIHJIOCb TO, 'ITO BepXHHH qaCTJ1 OTJIJ1qaJIJ1Cb APyr MaTepJ1aJIa J13 HIOIO 06~J1M (BepXHIOIO

J1HJ1JKHHH OT APyra lllJ1JIJ1 HJ1JK-

He TOJIbKO QBeTOM, HO J1 KaqeCTBOM xacr-r, noxyrraoa MaTepJ1J1,

J13 JJ:OMOTKaHoi1). B CBH3J1 C rrpOQeCCOM BbITeCHeHJ1H

TpaAJ1QJ10HHoi1 OAeJKAbI nepec'rann

capacpamsr
rOAbI
IIpa311.HI1QHaH HeCIIII1TaH IOfiKa 1CUTpU1i1.f3

HOCJ1Tb B 50-60-e

XX aerca.
,Uo nerraaaero HbI cxoro OH HOCJ1JIJ1 B panona. euie BpeMeHJ1 caparpaMOJIAaBCKOM 3AeCb ifJYCT3 60JIee TaKoi1 cene capa-

"3 urepc-rauoa
Holiday

MaTep""

(Bpl1<.aHcK"i\ paaon) katrintsa District)

steamless

'uJKYPAJKYJIeWTbI cpaH Ha3bIBaJIJ1 HMe.'!

BYJIKaHelllT-

woollen skirt (Brichany

YQaCTHI1Qa

Ky J/C106J£ J1 apxarormsre
rca-

xY11.0meCTBeHHoi1 caMo11.eHTeJIbHOCTJ.1 B Tpa,n;I1QI10HHoi1: npaa11.HI1QHoi1. ozreacne

xeprr,r,

qeM

KaMeHCKJ1i1. ECJIH

Participant hol iday clothes

ceaeprnax paaonos MOJI,n;aBI1J.1 of amateur group in traditional of northern regions of Moldavia

differed in cut-types: with a cutting in the middle and fasteners; with short laps without fasteners; with a side cutting and fasteners. The first type was used most widely. Waist-coats and sleeveless jackets were gorgeously patterned. Winter woollen women's jackets were lace-trimmed, ribboned, while woollen sleeveless jackets were decorated with an ornament of a thin cord. Thus, white woollen sleeveless jackets (kuptarush) are widespread in the Northern districts. Their trimming consists of a conirasting combination of a black decorative cord and a white ground of the sleeveless jacket. The cord, sewn up to the sleeveless jackets, forms zigzag lines along the breasts, the neck, and armholes. Women's leather sleeveless jackets were ornamented especially lavishly. The white ground of a sheepskin was embroidered with coloured stitching, beads, or adorned with leather patch cut-outs. The most variegated sleeveless jackets were made in the Northern districts of Moldavia, and in the Moldavian villages of the Chernovtsy Region. Over there. motley beads, red and black woollen stitchings were used for the ornamentation. In the South of the republic, in the riverain villages of the Prut, such as Manta, Old Kirgany, Ko-

64

,
\
lro
""

- ~-"
1

..

.., \.
f•

, \•

~~

<i"

..~
~
:'III.

, .
i

.""".

,
..

-, -

MeHCKMe KyrrHoi1 JIeUITaX TKaHOrO Ta.

caparpanr-r
TKaHM, TO

lllMJIM B

M3

rro-

)];JKYP)J;JKYI_\Be-

MX M3rOTOBJI.HJIM M3 )J;OMOMaTepMaJIa '-lepHOrO

Capadian, pacnpoc-rpauetrat.m B IIpH)J;HecTpoBhe 11 na ror e MOJI)J;aBMM,

HBJIHeTC.H

)J;peBHei1

'-IaCThlO

MOJI)J;aBcKoi1 O)J;eJK)J;hI,nO.HBHBlllei1C.HB

ceaepnotr

30He

MOJI)J;aBHM nO)J; B.nl1.HHMeM

Henocpe)J;CTBeHHhIM CJIaB.HHCKoilr KyJIhTYPbJ.

B na=ta.n e XX aexa B ce.nax KaYUlaHC'Koro M Opr-eeacxor o pariouon non B.nI1JIHMeM O)J;eJK)J;bI yccrcor o Hace.nE'HI1H p nOJIY'-II1JIM pacnpOCTpalIE'I1J11E' capac]:>aHbI roponcxoro TJ1Ila: npma oro rrOKpO.H na .TlHMKaX TaKHt':me caparpams
JIMCh capacpaua B

3aKapIlaTbt'

Ha3('IBan Jl[JIM ua-

WOPl!.

l loaepx

pyfiax

B XO.JlO,lHIOf' BpeMH

)J;f'S3.JIJ1KOc]:>TY· iKEHCKOMY :IKe KaK pa3JIM'-IHhIe naunrofi noaepx KOCTIOMY, TaK pac-

11 MymcKOMY,

rrpncyum HOCMJIM BpeM.H

BM)J;hI HarrJIe'-IHoi1

O)J;eJK)J;bI,KOTOpylO pyfiaxn.

TerrJIOe

rO)J;a Ha)J;eBaJIM :lKMJIeTbI, )J;JIMHHhIe

3MM0i1 Floncezmeanan Everyday skirt rofixa KUTpU1<tj-3(YHreHCKl1it 3THorpaq,l1QeCKl1it My3eit) of katrint-,a type (The Ungeny Museum of Ethnography)

urepc'rmrsre
MeXOM

6e3pYKaBKM, (MUHTJ/,1-WW,)

noznmrrere
TeU"K3,

MJIM KopOTKMe

no.nynans-ro a TaK:lKe M TyJIyrrhI, M3 TeMHoro

(C"KypOB'-IMHnarn,I_\BeTa

cY"KM31ie./L),

nsre
TO.

6e3pYKaBKM iKMJIeThI

lllMJIM TKaHM

llJIOTHOi1 MeXOBhIe

ruepcr-anorr

MJIM B.H3aJIM M3 ruepc'rrr.

libash, sleeveless jackets are colourfully embroidered. A sleeveless jacket in the village of Manta, called in the local dialect zhuletka, is embroidered in a motley, multicoloured way. In other districts of the republic sleeveless jackets are being ornamented simpler and predominantly with leather cut-outs. Sleeved kirtles (anteriyr!) occurred more seldom. They fell into complete disuse by the end of the 19th century. Originally, this type of clothes is close to the analogous Bulgarian garment (nnteriya), which was current in the past. It makes reasonable to suggest the Bulgarian origin of the Moldavian kirtles of this type. The outdoor winter women's vestment differed in its cut from men's but a little. Women wore the same suman, and also short sheepskin coats (kozhochel). Specific women's garments were widely used as well. such as zhuhya, wbu.n. hurnuz. polk. Every of the models possesses its distinctive features, but in its cut all of them were kindred with the suman IN THE PAST, there were specific women's head-rails differing women from girls. The age-old girls' way of doing their hair was letting them down. Medieval travellers mentio-

{j6

6e3pYKaBKH
nTap)

(60Hih, 60HOWP,
rro
THrry

r;erro-

OTJIW-IaJIHCb

Kp<H1: C paapeaoxr
C 3aCTemKaMH; MH 6e3 aacrexcerc;

nocepeznme
C paapeaosr

H
na

C KOPOTKHMH no.na-

60KY H 3aCTemKaMH. HaH60JIee pacnpocr panen 6bIJI nepasrri THrr. KaK OP;HHH3 p;peBHHX BHP;OB aepxHeM uraa op;emp;bI BH3aHaH cOXpaHHJIaCb WaJIb H3 60JIburepc-rrr,

KOTOPOM meHll.~HHbI YKYTbIBaJIHCb B XOJIOp;HOe BpeMH rop;a. iKHJIeTbI H 6e3pYKaBKH KOCPTbI 6oraTo 3HMHHe yxpanrann a wepopHaMeHTHpOBaJIHcb.

urepcr-aarsre
KpymeBaMH.

JIeHTO'-lKaMH,

CTHHble 6e3pYKaBKH opHaMeHTOM H3 TOHKoro umyprca, TaK, B

ceaepmsrx paiionax
HbI 6e3pYKaBKH
('K3nT3pym).

pacnpocr paneCOC-

H3 6eJIOM ruepc-rn yxpauremre CO'-leTaHHH

Hx

TOHT

KOHTpacTHoM

=reprroro
H fie.noro pOK, ofipaaye r

ztexopa'rnatroro
rrOJIH 6e3pYKaBKH. K 3Hr3aroo6pa3Hble

unrypxa
IIIHYJIHH

rrpHwHTbIM

6e3pYKaBKe,

Tlpaamuomaa 106Ka (E.lIliHeQKliMaMoH) p

'KUTPU1<'43

HHH BP;OJIb60PTOB, aopo-ra 30B na n.nexax. Oco6eHHO pOBaJIH ureztpo meHCKHe

ar.rpe-

opHaMeHTH6e3HHTOB'-lHHHOM HJIH yxpaH3 KYCKOB

Holiday skirt of katrint,u (Yedintsy District)

type

rcoacansre
IIOJIe QBeTHbIMH

pyrcanrcn.
KomH WaJIH KomH.

Be.noe

BbIlllHBaJIH

KaMH MYJIHHe, 6HcepOM arrrrJIHKaQHHMH HaH60JIee

HpKHe 6e3pYKaB-

67

ned that in summer

girls used to have a wreath

of flowers on, or plait their hair in two

braids. At a wedding, the bridal veil would be removed from ttie fiancee and a women's head-dress was put on. The act symbolized passage to the other age-group - that of married women. Even at the beginning of the 20th century, it was very sinful for a Moldavian peasant-woman to take off the kerchief and unveil her hair. Women's towel-like head-dresses - kyrpa for everyday use and naframa, which was a gala one;::_ were also traditional. Kyrpo represented a complex head-dress, resembling the Russian horny lcika. A wooden rim. with the fore ends cut, and shaping horns constituted its basis. The rim would be fastened on the head with the help of a kerchief and overlaid on top with a towel-like head-rail kyrpa, the tags ofwh ich could he dropped under the chin, or onto the shoulders. , A gala head-dress was na.frama or marama. One can judge about their common currency in the Middle ages by the fact, that they were mentioned in documents of the 16th century, side by side with other goods. The form and the mode of wearing the na.frama is analogous to the Old Russian head-dresses ubT'll.' and namyotka.

KM

llIMJH1

CeBepHbIX 06JIaCTM. 6MCep,

paaonax ,UJI.H opna-

MOJI,n;aBMM M B MOJI,n;aBCKMX CeJIaX -qepHOBM~KOi1: MeHTa~MM pa3HO~BeTHbli1: 3,n;eCb MCnOJIb30BaJIM

rcpacasre

11

xepnsre

urepcr-am.re HMTKM. KpaCO"lHO pacnnraarcr 6e3pYKaBKM aa tore pecny6JIMKM, B npnnpy-rcxnx CeJIaX MaHTa, Cr-apsre Knpramsr,
KOJIM6allI. MaHTa, Ee3pYKaBKa MMeeT B CeJIe .HPKyIO B OCHa3bIBaIOw;a.HC.H B MeCTHOM

ronope
TaJIbHbIX

~y.fLeTKa,

MHOro~BeTHyIO

BbIllIMBKy.

pa iionax pecny6JIMKM 6e3pYKaBKM yxpanraror CKpOMHee M npearayurecr-eeano armrrmca~M.HMM M3 Ko:tKM.

Pence
pYKaBaMM

BCTpe"laJIMCb

KypTKM M3

{oscrepue}. Ilo

K KOH~y

XIX
yno-r-

aerca

OHM COBCeM BbIllIJIM CBoeMY

pe6JIeHM.H.

npOMCXo:tK-

,n;eHMIO :3TOT TMn K aHaJIOrM"IHoi1:

o,n;e:lK,n;bI 6JIM30K

60JIra PCKoi1: ziae'r

(a'HTeB

pust],

KOTOpa.H llIMPOKO 6bITOBaJIa 3TO 60JIrapCKOe

npOllIJIOM. XO:lK,n;eHMe nepe~HMK. Ha~eBaeMbli1noaepx (KarYJIbCKI1I\\ paiioH) Apron worn over the skirt
KJOKI1

B03Mo:tKHOCTb npOMCKYPTOK :lKeHCKa.H no noHO-

npezmorroxcrr-t,
:3TOrO TMna. BepXH.H.H

MOJI,n;aBCKMX 3MMH.H.H

(Kagul

District)

oneaczra

MaJIO

OTJIM"IaJIaCb

JKeHIUMHa B

Tpa~I1U110HHoi1pa3~Hl1qHoi1 op;{'}K~e n naxana XX B. (EAI1HeL(KMii patioa. CHI1MOK 1982 r.) Woman in traditional holiday clothes of the early 20th century (Yedintsy District. Photo of 1982)

KpOIO OT MY:lKCKoi1:. meHW;MHbI CMJIM ,n;JIMHHyIO DJIe"leBYIO M3 ,n;OMOTKaHoro TaK:lKe cyKHa

orrexcny

OB"IMHHbIP .obJIyury6KM EbIJIM

(CYMa'H), a (KOIt!

~O·'ie.fL).

pacnpocrpaaeaer

69

Naframa presented a light, often transparent fabric, half a metre wide and up to two metres long. The overlay was manufactured on a loom. Most often, sm ~11 horizontal looms were used for the purpose. Cotton or silk yarn served as a material. At the beginning of the 20th century gold and silver sewings were applied for holiday naframa, and, when weaving, a complex gobelin technique was used. Motifs of the naframa designs are various - either geometrical stripes, or flower garlands. Sometimes an ornament would be situated not only fringeward, but also all over the overlay's ground; geometrical samplers combined with, scatttered stylized frgures, There were different modes of naframa tying - in one case it covered the head. while the loose ends of it were dropped onto the back; in another case - one end is let down the breast, while the other is flung over the back - this way they were worn in the Northern regions. Now and then, naframa was knotted under the chin, and both tags were let down onto the chest. Not only naframa, but also coarser overlays, which were patterned, too (shervete de pynza), were worn as head-rails.

ROMTIJIeKC Hau.HOHaJIbHOrO }KeHCKOro KOCTIOMa, BbITIOJIHeHHbI:i1:, no Tpap;111.l;l10HHbIM

MOTHBaM

Complex of national
women's

costume performed on traditional motifs

IIpa3p;HJ.1'L1HbIH }KeHcKHi1 KOCTIOM ceBepHblX

paaoa os
MOJlAaB.u'l (roCYAapCTBeHHbIM KpaeBeA'IeCKI1M MY3eM MCCP) Holiday
women's costume

of northern
regions

of Moldavia (The State Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

73
llpa3,n;Hltf'lHbIJ1: ,n;JUI m€HCKl1H KOCTIOM

xynoacecraennoa
no

CaMO,n;e.RT€JIbHOCTIII, MOTIIIBaM

BbITIOJIHeHHbIH

Tpa,n;11l.\1II0HHbIM

Holiday women's on traditional motifs

ROMTIJI€KC l.\€HTpaJIbHoi1 TIpa3,n;HIII'-IHoi1 m€HCKOJ1: o,n;em,n;bI

costume performed for amateur groups

3THOrpa¢11'-1€CKofl:

30HbI

(I'ocynapc-raeaa Myaeii! MCCP)

sra

KpaeBe,ll4ecKI1ii!

Complex of holiday women's vestiture of the central ethnographic zone of Moldavia (The St'ate Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

':

'. '\
'.

. · · · · •

·. · ·.

Tpa,[l>'lI.l>'lOHHble rrJle'leBble ceaepnr.rx (I'ocynapc-raenmaa

KOTOMK>'l(TpaucTa) paaoaon MOJI,n;aBI1I1 KpaeBe,[l'leCK>'lii MY3eii MCCP)

Traditional .D:eBYUlKa B KOCTIOMe xynoacec-rsenaoa (Epl1'JaHCK>'lii paaoa)

knapsacks (traiste) of northern regions of Moldavia (The State Local Lore Museum of the MSSR)

,lJ;JIH

caMo,n;eHT€JIbHOCTI1

Young woman in costume (Brichany District)

for amateur groups

75

From the second half of the 19th century, kyrpagradually got out of use, and could be met with only elderly women. Simultaneously disappeared and naframa. They were substituted for head-clothes. Late in the 19th century, there were several modes of kerchief tying: in palariyethe head-cloth covered only the top of the head; dupa kap - the knot was situated at the back of the head; sub barba - the tags were tied under the chin. The names of the kerchiefs varied, too: broboada, testemel - in the North of Moldavia; batik, bastita, kornishor, shalinka- in the centre; leghetoare, basma, bariz, koltsar - in the South. White or light kerchiefs were predominantly worn in summer; winter ones were closer and often woollen. Elderly women wore dark kerchiefs in any season. Since the second half of the 19th century, the girls habit to be uncovered loses validity. They wore kerchiefs, which differed from women's in, embroidery or lace trimming. OPINCHI served as women's footwear long since: braced footwear of rawhide, worn bymen too. In summer, the majority of peasant women walked barefoot. In a cold season,

TaKl1e

xapaicrepm-re
KaK nOAb'K. OHM

BM~bI JlC106Jl,

:meh.1 aOY1-L,

CKOH O~e:m~bI

6YP'liy3,
rrOKpOID

Ka:m~bIM BCe

M3 HMX HO rro

MMf'.TI CBOM

OC06eHHOCTM,

HarrOMMHa~M CYIL\eCTBOBa~M

cyMa'/i.
B Hble xaio ~M~M ITPOIlIJIOM y60PbI, ~eBywKM C CrreU;I1<pMqeCKMe OT~Mqa~MCb :meHCKMe rO~OB-

KOTOPbIMM :meHIL\MHbI OT ztenyurerc. ITo 06bIXOrO~OBoM. ~O 3aMy:meCTBa

HerrOKpbITOM ~eBMqbH BO~OCbl.

~peBHHH

rrpMqeCKa--

pacnyniennsre
aexonsre
qa~M, Ha

CpezraeOTMeHOCM~M

rrYTeweCTBeHHMKM BeHOK

'ITO ~eTOM rtenynncrr

rO~OBe

M3 U;BeTOB M~M CHMMa11 naney6op. ee rre~e-

aarirrerarrn BpeMH Ba~M 3TOT

BO~OCbI B zrse KOCbl. Bo C HeBeCTbI rO~OBHOM nOKPbIBa~o

CBa~b6b1 :meHCKMM aKT B

~11 cBa~ef)Hoe

CMMBO~M3MpOBa~ rcareropmo EC~M zto

pexozt
nyunca

3aMy:mHMX CBa~b6bI 113 ~OMy TO rrocrre 6ecxcenrpeBOTpa,IU1QJ.10HHOe

:meHIL\MH.

Mor~a

BbIXO~MTb rO~OBOM, 3TO

C HerrOKpbITOM

aawyxcecr'aa
xec'rsere. ~~H

CqMTa~OCb

Mo~~aBCKOM

IL\MHbI-KpeCTbHHKM

~a:me B naxarre M OTKpbITb 6bI~M

npaanuwcaoe noxpr-mano .. aifJpa.Ma. KP>'lYJlHHCK>'l>i pa>ioH (roCY.IIapCTBeHHbl>i Kpaenenxecxwn MY3e>i MCCP)

XX

aerca CqMTa~OCb 60~bWPlM

XOM CHHTb n~aTOK ~OCbI. Tpa~MU;MOHHbIMM CKMe

Traditional holiday head-dress nafrumu Kriulyany District (The State Local Lore Museum of the MSSR) .D:eByulKa B Tpa.ll>'lU>'lOHHO>i o.lle>K.IIe QeHTpaJlbHo>i
3THorpacpl1'leCKoi1 30HbI MOJI)laBl1l1

:tKeH-

rorronasre

y60PbI TMrra:

rrO~OTeH'KbLpn3 of the

qaToo6pa3Horo

Young central

woman in traditional ethnographic zone of

vestiture Moldavia

wealthy peasant women, besides opinchi. wore high boots. Shoes for elderly women were sewn of felting or knit it.otoch i, chupichi. tyryitsi). From the middle of the 19th century, factory-built footwear penetrates into the village - women's high-heeled boots with long bootlegs (pa.mpozhi) became especially current. ADORNMENTS were obligatory appurtenances of women's attire. Gorgets, earrings, finger-rings, seal-rings, bracelets were practised on a large scale. In the foretime, there was a notion of decorations as protective amulets. According to the current believes of the 19th century, ear-rings protected women from "the evil's eye". Adornments, more than other constituents of clothes, served as special distinction signs, and besides the aesthetical meaning, performed the function of a property status index. Wooden beads and bracelets, brass and metal rings could be met with poor peasant women. Rich peasant women wore expensive ornamentations of corals, garnet, amber. Side by side with beads. they wore clusters of silver or gold coins. In several villages (in the Rybnitsa District, for example) girls would put on up to fifteen-eighteen rows of beads and a row of strung coins. Late in the 19th - early in the 20th centuries, glass, smaIt, metal-plate

76

2
6Y,LIHJ1'fHbIM HI1q HbI i1:. 11

1iag'JpaMa -

rrpa3,L1-

BI1,lJ;hI nOB.R3bIBaHJ1,R

meHCKOro

nJIaTKa:

1-

«(bIH

n3JI3pl1e»,

2-

«zryrte xan»

Kbtpna

CJlOJKHbIM

rOJlOBHOM pyccxyro 'lCbtpna 060,LI, rre-

yfiop,

I-

Modes of kerchief tying: "in palariyer 2 - "dupe kap"

HarrOMI1HalO~I1M KI1Ky. KOH~bI OCHOBY KOTOpOrO

pOraTYIO permrre

COCTaBJlHJI ,LIepeBHHHbIM

cpeaansr
practised for r iviere-making

beads gained wide currency. Variegated beads became (gerdan), squarewise or round with a figured design.

78

MEN'S COSTUME THE MEN'S vestiture as compared with women's one was less picturesque and varied. A white shirt of homespun cloth underlay men's costume. It was worn outside one's trousers, and was girdled with two belts. one over another. According to the cut characters, there were several types of shirts: tunic-like ones; with shoulder insets; yoked ones; and a shirt with a skirt. The tunic-like cut is the most ancient one. The shirts of that type were current in the 19th century. and by the end of the century they gradually came ousted by the yoked shirts, and partially, by the shirts with shoulder insets. At present, tunic-like shirts can be met with only in a few villages of the Northern districts of Moldavia, wherein they

11 06pa3yIOT rina-nca

pora

('lCoap1ie).
cnepxy

060~ noKOH-

HO J1 rro JIJ1Cb co paMJ1,

BceMY

rrOJIIO noxpi-taarra: Y30PbI COQeTa6e3 orrpecrrocoB O~rona

YKperIJUIJIJ1 na rOJIOBe rrpn J1 rrOKpbIBaJIJ1 JIOTeHqaT006pa3HbIM ll;bI non rco-r-opor-o rro~60pO~OK IT pa3~HJ1qHbli1.

rrOMO~J1

reOMeTpJ1QeCKJ1e

CTJ1JIJ130BaHHbIMJ1 <pJ1rynopaznca. paansre

y60pOM,

pa36pocaHHbIMJ1

MOrJIJ1

crrYCKaTbCH nrre-rn.

~eJIeHHOrO

J1JIJ1na

Cy~ecTBOBaJIJ1 6bI rrOBH3bIBaHJ1H HOM crryxae TKaHb

rOJIOBHoi1. rro

1i3ifJpaMa,
JIHJI c060i1. ue. 0

J1JIJ1MapaMa, IIJIaTOK, ~JIJ1HHOe

yfiop, npezicrannarrOJIOTeH-

1i3ifJpaM3 noxpsraarra

<popMe

JIOBY, a KOHll;bI 6bIJIJ1 onyniema CrrJ1HY; onyuien pouren B na rrpyrora CrrJ1HY -O~J1H TaK na rpyzn., a ztpyroti

rrOMJ1HalO~J1i1

xoneu rrepe6-

UlJ1POKOM yfiopa aerca

pacrrpocrpanenna

aroro

B Cpe~HJ1e nerca MOJKHO napazty C ~pyrJ1MJ1 HOllleHJ1H TO-

HOCJ1JIJ1 B

Cy~J1Tb rro TOMy, qTO B ~oKyMeHTax

cenepnsrx
paMa
60pO~KOM

paiionax.
J1 06a

Hnor'rta

1iaifJ-

XVI
pUM3

3aBH3bIBaJIJ1 Y3JIOM rrozt nozrKOHll;a orrYCKaJIJ1 y60pOB

BapaMJ1 yrrOMJ1HaIOTCH <POp Me J1 cnocofiy

MapaMb. ITo 1iaifJroJ1 HaMeT'lCa.

na rpyrrs.
B KaQeCTBe rOJIOBHbIX rpytisre, HOCJ1JIJ1 He TOJIbKO TOHKJ1e norepi,rBaJIa, HO J1 60JIee TaKJKe

6JIJ13Ka K ~peBHepycCKJ1M

JIOBHbIM yfiopawr JIerKYIO, TKaHb pOB, ~JIH rrOJIMe'l'pa TKaUKOM

y6pyc

qaCTO

npoapa-rnyro lllJ1PJ1HOi1. MeTHe60JIblllOM CTaHKe. npaaca.

rcoropsre
(mepeeaexa J13

1iaifJpaMa,

opHaMeHTJ1pOBaJIJ1

J1 ~JIJ1HOi1.zto ~ByX rOpJ130HTaJIbHOM J1JIJ1llleJIKOBaH

Te de nb[1i3a).
Co BTOPOi1.rrOJIOBJ1HbI 'lCbtpna 06J1xo~a na apemenno

J13rOTOBJIHJlJ1 na

XIX

nocrenenao

J1CQe3aeT

MaTepJ1aJIOM 6YMaJKHaH B naxane 30JIOTble TKaHbe

CJIYJKJ1JIa XJIOrrqaTOaexa ~JIH rrpaaznm-ryrroTpe6JIHJIJ1 HJ1TJ1,rrpn CJIOJKHYIO

J1 BCTpeQaeTCH JKeH~J1Hax. 11 J1CQe3aeT

TOJIbKO O~HOIIJIaTKJ1.

rrOJKJ1JIbIX

XX

1iaifJpaMa.
6bIJIO He-

HbIX BJ1~OB 1iaifJpaMa

Mx

3aMeHJ1JIJ1 rOJIOBHble B reonue

J1 cepefipamsre J1CrrOJIb30BaJIJ1 TeXHJ1KY. opnaerem-a 3TO

XIX

nerca

CKOJIbKO nJIaTKa: KpbIBaJI rOJIOBbI: ~J1JIC.H na

crrocofios TOJIbKO

nOBH3bIBaHJ1.H rrJIaTOK rroQaCTb naxoY3eJI BepXHlO1O

r06eJIeHHYlO MOTJ1BbI pa3Ho06pa3HbI JIHH~bI

bt1i naJl,apue ayna 'lCan -

1iaifJpaMa
JIJ160 reornp-

:vreTpJ1qeCKJ1e rrOJIOCbI, JIJ160 ll;BeTOB.

3aTbIJIKe;

cy6

6ap63-

Hnor

zta opnawren'r

KOHll;bI 3aB.H3bIBaJIJ1 rrozt nonfiopozrKOM. BapbJ1pOBaJIJ1 J1 Ha3BaHJ1.H ro-

pacrro.nar-amr

He TOJIbKO rro KpaHM,

79

bear a characteristic name, pointing out therr antiquity - kumesh.o. batrynya~ka {oldstyle shirt}. All over the territory of Moldavia, the tunic-like shirt fashion was uniform - side rectangular insets were sewn to the central width. The sleeve of rectangular cut necessarily combined with a diamond-shaped gore (pave). The majority of the shirts has a carved rounded neckband, It is the most ancient types of Moldavian national clothes, both men's rent collar-types appeared, and first of all, an shirt length and sleeve width varied depending full-sleeved camises were current, characteristic while in other - short, narrow-sleeved shirts, Under end of the style shirt of several form pf a neckband, once peculiar to all and women's. In the 19th century, diffeupright one, of a moderate height. The on the local vogues-in several villages of clothes of the mountaneous regions, typical for plainsmen.

the influence of garments of the Russian and Ukrainian population, since the 19th century, a shirt with sidefastening acquired wide popularity. A Russianwith a slant cutting across the left side of-the breast was current in the villages districts {Dondyushany, Vulkaneshty, Orgeyev, Rybnitsa}. Shirts of that kind

JIOBHOrO nJIaTKa:

6po6oncb,

T(,CTe-

.MeJl 1C3 B

na

ccaepe

Mo.rr,n:aul1l1;

6a-

1'U1C, 6a'l'UCT3, 6apU3,

1COPHUWOP, WaJlUHnee.noape, 63C.Ma,

nerrrpe;
1COJl1.fap-

na rorc.

JIeToM

HOCJ1JIJ1 npeJ1My~ecTJ1JIJ1 CBeTJIble nJIaTKJ1. nJIOTHble, =raJKeHIIOJKJ1JIble BpeM.fl rojta

BeHHO 6eJIbIe nre

3J1MHJ1e 6bIJIJ1 60JIee lllepCT.flHble. B JII060e nJIaTKJ1. ~J1HbI

HOCJ1JII1 serca

TeMHbIe 06blqai1

Co BTOPOM nOJIOBJ1HhI ztenyurerc KPblTOM rOJlOBOM.TepHeT CTaJIJ1 Ha,n:eBaTb OTJIJ1QaJIJ1Cb OT yfiopa

XIX

XO,n:J1Tb C nenoCI1Jly. OHM nJlaTKJ1,

xo'ropsre
ItIJIJ1

3aMYJKHeM

JKeHI..UJ1HbI BbIlllJ1BKOM. JKeBHOM OTOPOQKOM . .iKEHCKOJ/1 Ha OBYBbIO

tcpy-

J13,n:aB06YBb J13

CJIYJKJ1JlI1 onUH~ib rcpaio.

CbIPOM.flTHOi1 aepxneray

KOJKI1, CTHHYTOVr no JIeToM rcpecrr.anXo,n:J1JII1 caCBoeM

KJ1 B 60JIblllJ1HCTBe TOQHbIe rtor n,

60CJ1KOM. B XOJIo,n:Hoe BpeM.fl 3aJKJ1KpeCTb.flHKJ1 naneaarm KOJKaHble 60TJ1HKJ1. ,UJl.fl noJ13 BaJl.flHoM
O>KepeJIb€ 113 CTeKJIHHHhlX B.

JKJ1JlbIX JlIO,n:ei1 lllJ1JlM urepc-rn TO~ib, ,n:J1HbI 60e

J1JIJ1B.fl3aJIJ1 TanOQKJ1 (TO-

wirnuw»,

Haxano Early

XX

6yc. (EAI1HellKl1ii paaoa)

TbiPbiU1.fb). 06YBb na

C -

cepe-

XIX

aexa

B ztepennro

rrpooco-

Necklace made of glass beads. 20th century (Yedintsy District)

HJ1KaeT

cpa6pJ1QHa.fl 60TJ1HKM

pacnpocrpanemre

nOJlYQalOT BbICOKOM

JKeHCKJ1e Ka6JlYKe

C BbICOKJ1MM rOJleHJ1~aMM

(naconcacu),
were not worn over the trousers, but were usually tucked into them. Wide use of the shirts with sidefastening coincided with the settlement of the Russian migrants in Moldavia. A shirt with shoulder insets, sewn along the woof, largely practised in the Moldavian villages of the Southern Prut riverside, and in a few central and Northern regions, presented another shirt fashion, also borrowed from the Russian inhabitants. In Moldavia, there are two terms to denote insets - platka {in the Leovo and Rezina Districts} and pctik <in the Ryshkany, Vulkaneshty, Orgeyev Districts}. A confusion of terminology took place herein, since a yoke is also called peti): Both types of the Russian shirts (the shirt with side fastening and the shirt with insets) on getting into the Moldavian villages, acquired features, characteristic of the Moldavian national garments - one might attribute the Moldavian ornamentation to them. Shirts with side fastening were decorated with especially rich patterns. From the second half of the l!.Jth century, a yoked shirt penetrated from town into countryside. This international fashion became accepted on getting in the country, and

80

TpaJlJ1qJ10HHbIH KOCTIOM HeBecTbl. ROHeq XIX - naxano (RaMeHCKJ1U paaon). PeKoHcTPYKq>UI aropa a

XX

BB.

Traditional bride's costume. Late 19th - early 20th century (Kamenka District). Author's reconstruction.

II pa3AHWlHoe >KeHCKoe narpynaoe yxparuernre 113611cepa (2epaaH) KOHeLl XIXHaqaJIO XX B. (KYTY30BCKI1H patioa) Holiday women's breast adornment made of beads (gerdan). Late 19th - early 20th century (Kutuzov District)

meHll~I1Ha

B npa3~Hl1qHOM

KOCTH)Me

C O>KepeJIbHMI1 113 611cepa (KaMeHcKl1w pawoH) Woman in holiday of beads (Kamenka costume District)

11 6yc with necklace made

83

later on assumed the traits of the national one, Late in the 19th - early in the 20th century, this cut of a shirt had the general vogue in Moldavia. Gathered front and rear widths and sleeves were sewn to the yoke. The yoked shirts were patterned, too. In the middle.of the 19th century, a tunic-like shirt with a skirt (kamcsha ku fustal, which consisted of a short waist-deep shirt and a knee-deep skirt, held with elastic, was largely practised in Moldavia, The shirt and the skirt juncture was girdled with two sashes. Embroidered garments were mostly worn only by young men. Festival and wedding shirts were patterned especially gorgeously, The cloth for them was manufactured with the help of the serge fine patterned interlacing technique. The cuffs were trimmed with an interwoven decor, sornetirnes with a hem-stitch. The tunic-like shirts and the yoked ones were patterned to the same extent. A squarewise section at the breast, all along the cutting, was embroidered most often. In many cases, cuffs, neck-bands, and laps of shirts were designed, while shoulders - more seldom. As a whole, a rounded carved neckband with a straight cutting was the most typical for men's shirts. Different kinds of collars appeared during the 19th century - an up-

Oacepern,e 113 MeTaJIJIJ1QeCKI1X MOHeT. CepeAJ1Ha XIX B. (BYJIKaHelllTCKJ1i1atron) p Necklace made of metal coins. Middle 19th century (Vulkaneshty District)

OB.H3ATEJIbH0J/1
JIe:mHOCTblO RBJIRJIJ1Cb 6bIJIJ1 :meHCKOrO

npJ1Ha,LI-

yfipanc-ma

yrcpaureturn. lliJ1POKO pacnpoc-rpanema oxcepe.m.n, cepsr-n, KOJIbl~a, nepCTHJ1, fipacneB

npOrnJIOM 3Ha'feHJ1e YKparneHI1RM npn,LIaBaJIJ1 aMYJIeTOB-06e-

TbI.
MeTaJIJII1QeCKJ1e KpecTbHHcKoro

Konen XIX

B.

fipac.ne-r sr npoaasonc-rea. (BYJIKaHelllTCKJ1i1atton) p

11 peMeCJIeHHOrO

o acepem.e

peron.
OXpaHRJIJ1 r.rraaa». ,LIpYfJ1e '-lJ1R, HRJIJ1

ITo

BepOBaHJ1RM

XIX sexa, cepeacxn

OT «,LIypHOfO 'feM CJIypa3JIJ1BbInOJIJ1MyY 6e,LI60JIbIlle O,LIe:m,LIbI,

pacnpocrpanemnara

Metal necklace and bracelets of peasant's handicraft. Late 19th century (Vulkaneshty District) 30JIOTble J1 cepefipam.re
peMeCJIeHHOrO np0I13BOll.CTBa.

:meH~J1Hy YKparneHJ1R, 3JIeMeHTbI

cepr.ru xpecruaacxoro Kone u XIX Bo

:mJ1JIJ1 3HaKOM xporae

CO~J1aJIbHOfO 3CTeTJ1'feCKoi1: nOKa3aTeJIR nOJIo:meHJ1R.

(EPWIaHCKJ1i1pa sion) Gold and silver ear-rings of peasant's handicraft. Late 19th century (Brichany District)

CPYHK~111O

~eCTBeHHOfO

85

right collar of moderate height with a straight cutting, tied with a string or buttoned, was used widemost. The ground of the collar was often ornamented with a decor. Under the influence of the Russian and Ukrainian garments, side by side with a straight cutting, there appeared a slant rightward or leftward cutting. By the end of the 19th century, shirts with a turn-down collar came to be tailored. MEN'S TROUSERS had several variants of cut. depending on the local vogue. According to the cut and quality of the material, this type of garments can be divided into the following ones: trousers made of cloth (izmene). of wool (itsar), winter woollen trousers (bernevich, nadrazh, chioarech) and winter ones, made of sheepskin (meshini). lzmene. made of flax, hemp or cotton, were used on the largest scale. lzmene served as work-day clothes, worn in summer-time. In several villages, however, izmene were worn as holiday garments. In the villages of the Vulkaneshty District, the wedding izmene were made of fine, patterned cotton. With penetration of factory ware in the country at the turn of the 20th century, the destination of the izmene changes - they became worn as underwear with purchased trousers put on over them.

HhIX

KpeCTh.flHOK 6yChI

BCTpeQaJIJ1Ch ll.eJ1 6paCJIeThl, Mell.£0-

pearnun.re
ra-rsre

CBaJlefiHOe >KeHCKOe nOKphlBaJIO "a!ppa-",u'ta (KaMeHCKMM paMoH) Wedding women's head-dress nafrnrnitsc (Kamenka District)

HhIE' J1MeTaJIJIJ1QeCKJ1e KOJIhqa. yrcpanrenna .flHTap.fl. CB.fl3KJ1

KpeCTh.flHKJ1 HOCJ1JIJ1 1l.0pOrJ1e 1t13 KUpaJIJIOB, rpanar-a, Hapazry C 6ycaMJ1 HOCItIJIJ1 cepefipmrsrx J1JIJ130JIOThIX

One of men's garb complexes, widely used in the Northern parts of the republic, and in the Moldavian villages of the Chernovtsy Region, included itsar - white long pantaloons of homespun woollen stuff. The length of itsar is their distinctive peculiarity: it could equal a full human size. [tsar were folded at the legs. Such a vestiture is an attribute of highlanders. They were brought from highland regions onto the territory between the Dniester and Prut, where they were worn by the shepherds, which were driving sheepflocks and settling there in the course of a few centuries. The fashion of both izmene and itsor possessed a trapeziform insertion at each leg. The range of itsar is mainly limited by the North of Moldavia. During wintertime, countryfolk were wearing trousers of a close stuff. There were a dark trousers of few types, according to the material quality and the cut. One of them -

86

thick stuff, sewn after the townish mode (without a juncture insertion), or ones with a small diamond-shaped insertion (bvrnevich). This style of clothes, being of Slavic origin as in its name, so in its cut, was current throughout the Slav nationalities of the Balkan peninsula. Another type - winter woollen trousers of white or grey stuff with two

MOHeT. npnerep. ByWKl1

HeKOTOpbIX

ce.nax

(nazie-

BCTaBKaMl1. BCTpeTl1Tb cenax HOC.flT

'/CaMelli3

HaCTO.fllI~ee pyfiaxn B

BpeM.fl MOJKHO

B PbI6Hl1I.UWM HaIleBaJIl1

panone)

TyHl1K006pa3Hble cenepa

110 IUITHaIlQaTl111 pazt MOHeT. aexa no-

TOJIbKO

nexoropurx
rIle OHl1 Ha3BaHl1e,

BOCeMHaIlqaTl1 P.flIlOB 6yc HaH113aHHbIX na Hl1TKy

MOJIIlaBl1l1,

xaparcrepnos
6aTPb~UJLc'/Ca

B KOHqe 60JIbWOe

XIX -

na-rane XX parrrpoc-rpanenne

yxaasraarornee Ha l1X IlpeBHocTb,-

(crapmnraa
MOJIIlapyK rrpn-

JIyql1JIl1 6yCbl 113CTeKJIa, CMaJIhTbI, MeTaJIJIl1qeCKl1X 6JI.fllueK. nor'o rcpyra 611cepa B IleJIaJIl1 M3 qBeTOJKepeJIb.fl l1JIl1

py6axa). Ha Bcei1 Teppl1TOpl1l1 Bl1l1 nOKpoi1 TyHl1K006pa3Hoi1

(2epOUU)

Bl1Ile

rcaaztpa'r-a Pl1CYHKOM.

C Y30PHbIM

fiaxn l1MeJI elll1Hbli1 xaparcrep qeHTpaJIbHoMY nOJIOTHl1ll.(y Illl1BaJIl1

fiorcoarsre

npaw

oyr-om.m.re

MymCKOR
MYfKCKAH JIl1ql1e rcpacoxnon

KOCTIOM
O.l(EfK.l(A 6bIJIa B OTMeHee OC-

BCTaBKl1. PYKaB nparaor'o rrorcpoa 06.fl3aTeJIbHO COqeTaJIC.fl C pOM6oBl1IlHOi1 JIaCTOBl1qei1 (naea). uraa xacrr, py6ax l1MeJIa DOJIb-

OT JKeHcKoi1.

nsrpesnon

11 pa3H006pa3Hoi1.

HOBY MYJKCKOrO KOCTIOMa COCTaBJI.flJIa fie.na a py6axa 1131l0MOTKaHOro nOJIOTHa. Ee HOCl1JIl1 HaBblnYCK, nonepx WTaHOB, 11nOB.fl3bIBaJIl1 01lrroncaran Olll1H Hl1M l1JIl1 IlBYM.fl

BOPOT rcpyr-rroir <pOPMbI. 3TO Hal160Jlee IlpeBH.fl.fl rpopraa aopo'ra, x apax-repnaa B npOIllJIOM llJI.fl ncex Bl1Il0B MOJIIlaBcKoi1 CKOi1. Haq110HaITbHoi1 nO.flBl1JIl1Cb

OJ.(eJKIlbI KaK MYJKCKOi1, TaK 11JKeH-

XIX

aerce

rronepx
norcpo.s

ztpyroro.
na na

110

xaparcrcpy
nozipaaTl1nOB:

MYJKCKl1e pyfiaxn HeCKOJIbKO C

paarnr-m sre Tl1nbI BOPOTHl1KOB, 11 npeaezte acer-o HeBbICOKl1i1 CTO.flQl1i1. .l(JIl1Ha pyfiaxn aapr-npoaarnrct, MeCTHblX psix cerrax 11umpmra pYKaBoB B 3aBl1Cl1MOCTl1 OT B HeKOTOIlJIl1HHOno-

IleJI.flJIl1Cb BCTaBKaMl1;

TYHl1K006pa3Hble; TYHl1K006pa3Hbli1 Ha1160JIee IlpeBHl1i1.

nJIeqeBbIMl1

KOKeTKe; C 106K0i1. norcpoti Pyoaxn 3TOrO

Tpalll1ql1i1

6bITOBaJIl1

.nsre

Tl1na 6bIJIl1 Wl1POKO pacnpocrpaaeHbI B XIX nerce, a K KOHqy CTOJIeTl1.fl l1X nOCTeneHHO CTaJIl1 BbITecH.flTb pyfiaxu TltlqHO, na KOKeTKe C 11. <raepyfiaxrr TIJIeqeBbIMl1

xaparerepnsre
pafionon, pyfiaxrr nl1QHble

Illl1POKOPYKaBHble pyfiaxn, IlJI.fl OlleJKIlbl roprrsrx B IlJI.fl IlPyrl1X KOpOTKl1e Tl1C y3Kl1Ml1 pyrcaaaran,

JKl1TeJIei1 paBHl1Hbi. TYHl1Ko06-

Pa3HOBl1IlHOCTblO

87

juncture insertions - chioarech, nadrazh. Now and again, trousers of this model were ornamented with an uncomplicated decor of cut-outs in the front. at the waistband. Sheepskin trousers, made fur inside (meshini) served as a winter shepherds' habit. In the second half of the 19th century, in connexion with increment of the Ukrainian population number, the Ukrainian blue and brown sharorary (wide trousers with leg bottoms drawn together with a cord or elastic) came into use in many Moldavian villages. Thus, at the beginning of the 20th century, wide sburonars} with lots of pleats were worn in the villages in the South of Bessarabia. Trousers of a towrrish cut, made in the country of homespun cloth, were current early in the 20th century as a transitional thing. The new element - the townish fashion - combined with the old way of manufacturing the cloth at home. VARIOUS TYPES of flung-open shoulder garments, worn over shirts, were characteristic of men's garbs. Waist-coats were put on in a warm season, while sheepskin sleeveless jackets, overcoats and sheepskin coats -- in winter. Their fashion was analogous to

" "
II

::

,,
I

v------I

I
I

I I

,
I I

I
I

I I I I I I I I I I

I I

,
I I \ I
I

I
I

I
I I I I \

~-- --- =-!~~-----=---:=----;--1

__

---

:J

-----_~ , , __ ,
.,/'
I ,

, ,

\ t-- ...

,I

I
I'

1
I I
I

,,

I I

, ,
I

I I I

I
I

,
I

I I

,, ,

,
I I

,,
3

,
I

I
I I

4
3Ti1nbl TpaAl1IV'QHHbIX MymcKHx py6ax: 1 - TYHHKoo6pa3HaH; 2 - KOCOBopoTKa, na KOKeTKe; 4 - c n.neqeBbIMH BCTaBKaMH 1Types of traditional men's shirts: tunic-like; 2 - with sidefastening; with a yoke; 4 - with shoulder insets

3-

paaaon pyfiaxn 6bIJIa ROCOBOpOTRa, MOJIAaBcRoi1:napoznroti OAemAbI,nOJIY'II1BlllaH C ROHu:a XIX aexa R HI1M MomHO OTHeCTI1 MOJIAaBOc06eHHo 60JIbllIOe pacnpocTpaHeHl1e nOA CRYIO 0pHaMeHTI1RY. yxpaurarm 0pHaMeHToM BJII1HHl1eMOAemAbI pyccxoro 11YR- fiora-ro pal1HCROrO HaCeJIeHI1H. B ce.nax py6aXI1-ROCOBOPOTRI1. Co BTOPOi1: nOJIOBI1HbIXIX nexa HeROTopbIX paaonoa (,UoHAlOlllaHcxoro, BYJIRaHeIilTcRoro, Opreea- B ceJIe nOHBI1JIaCb py6axa Ha ROcxoro, PbI6HI1U:Roro) 6bITOBaJIa RO- ReTRe. 3TOT pacnpoct-panernu.ui COBopoTRa pyccrcoro Tl1na C paaperopoztcxori rroxpoti, rrorraa B ceJIO, 30M na rpYAI1 CJIeBoi1:CTOpOHbI.Ta- npl1ml1JICH 3AeCb 11npnofiperr arroRl1e pyfiaxn He HOCI1JII1 HaBblnYCR, CJIeACTBI1l1 xaparerep napormoro. a 3anpaBJIHJIl1 06bI'IHO B urraa sr. B ROHu:e XIX - Ha'IaJIe XX nexa PacnpOCTpaHeHl1e py6ax-RoCOBO- aro 6bIJI caMbli1: pacnpoc-rpanenpOTOR conrrano C nOHBJIeHl1eM pycHbli1: noxpoti MymcRoi1: pyfiaxn B CRI1X nepecenennea B MOJIAaBI1I1. MOJIAaBI1l1. K ROReTRenpl1111I1BaJII1 ,Upyrl1M Tl1nOM py6ax, TaRme B C60PRY nepeAHee 11 3aAHee noPyfiaxn na :laI1MCTBOBaHHbIM y pyccrcoro Ha- JIOTHI1UJ;a H pyxana. opHaCeJIeHI1H, HBJIHJIaCb pyfiaxa C nJIe- ROReTRe TaRme yxpaurarnr '-IeBbIMI1 BCTaBRaMI1, npl1111I1TbIMI1 MeHTOM. B cepennne XIX nexa B MOJIno YTRY, pacnpocrpaaeaaas B MOJIAaBl111 6bIJIa pacnpoc-rpaaena pyAaBCRI1X cerrax roacaoro TlpanpynORpoH C TbH, B aereo-ropstx u,eHTpaJIbHbIX 6axa TYHHRo06pa3~oro Ky cjJYCT3), coc11 cenepa.srx parionax. ,UJIH 0603- 106ROi1: (K3Mem3 A Ha'IeHI1H BCTaBORB MOJIAaBl111ecr-s TOHBlilaH 113 ROPOTROi1: O nonca ABa TepMI1Ha - nJtaTK3 (B JIeoB- pyfiaxn 11106RH AO ROJIeH,KOTOPYIO CROM H Pe3l1HCROM pajionax) 11 HOCHJIHna peannxe. MeCTO coeznrneTUK (B PbIlllRaHCROM, BYJIRa- HeHI1H pyfiaxn 11106Rl1 nepexaa-rerBaJII1 ABYMH nOHCaMI1. HeIilTCROM, OpreeBCROM paiionax). BbIllll1TYIO 0AemAY HOCI1JII1 B 3AeCb np0I130111JIOCMellleHl1e TepMI1HOJIorl1l1, TaR RaR ROReTRa TO- OCHOBHOM MOJIOAble Mym'-IHHbl. Oc06eHHO 60raTO BbIllll1BaJIH me Ha3bIBaeTCH CJIOBOM neTUK 06a Tl1na PYCCRI1Xpy6ax (ROCOBO- npa3AHI1'-IHble 11 caarrefimae py6apOTRa 11 py6axa co BCTaBRaMI1), XH. TRaHb JlJIH HHX 113rOTOBJIHJIl1 norraa B MOJIAaBCRl1ecena, np1106- TeXHI1Roi1: capnceaoro MeJIROY30PpeJII1 '-IepTbI, xaparcreprrste AJIH noro rrepertne-reuna. Manxce-r sr yx-

89

the corresponding women's clothes. Men's sheepskin sleeveless jackets were decorated just like women's ones, but the ornament, being made only of leather cut-outs, was simpler. Su mun - a long shoulder vestment of a homespun cloth - was worn by men during a cold season. The fabric, also called SU111un. could be dyed or undyed, and depending on this,- white, grey or brown. SU111an in a single-breasted flung open vestiture of a tuniclike cut with wedgewise insets in the lower part of the lap. Age-old models of the s urnun were collarless, cut with a round carved neckband, and worn with a belt. Stu,wn with upright and turndown collars. buttons or strings, appeared in the 19th century. They could be short or long. Festival surnans were generously decorated with an applique of a 'black cord. A hood 91"qu. which was used for head-covering in a rainy weather, was sewn to the collar. In such a case the sumrm was called 111unUt ku
qlu'f"

Fur coats, overlaid with a fine cloth (kontesh I were worn by rich peasants in winter. In the foretimes, /wntesi! prevailed among rich peasants or boyars and is often mentioned among precious things in the documents of the 15th - l fit.h centuries.

MY>KcKaHy6axa Ha KOKeTKe. p Ha-rano XX B. (yHreHcK "THorpa<PwlecK MY3e") .... .... Men's yoked shirt. Early 20th century (The Ungeny Museum of Ethnography)

Kozhok - a fur-inside sheepskin coat - was considered a richer garment. Its old variants were carve-necked, but by the end of the 19th - the beginning of the 20th century, cuts with a turndown, or a high stand-up collar became widely used. The Moldavian kozhok in contrast with the Ukrainian Icczh.ulch., was not fashioned fitting at the waist, but sloppy. The term kozhok, however, is borrowed from the Ukrainian, though this type of clothes is of antique origin. A PEAKED lambskin cap (Icustima] used to be a winter headgear. Felt and straw were worn in summer. According to the custom, men were not to go out uncovered. Young fellows decorated festival hats with ribbons, flowers, peacock feathers. In the strandwise villages of the Dniester, Russian factory-built visored caps became current at the turn of the 20th century. OPINCHI - home-made leather footwear, resembling the Bulgarian oponki. and the Ukrainian postoly, were the traditional Moldavian footwear. Swine or cow hide served as the material for making them. Poor peasants were making opinch.i of reed and linden rind. According to their shapes, they may be divided into two types: with top-caps (opin-

90

paWaJU1 a Py6axJ1

TRaHhIM

opHaMeHTOM, RpymeBaMJ1. nORpOH opnana

J1Hor,ua MepemROH,

TYHJ1ROo6pa3Horo

J1 na ROReTRe B paBHOH Mepe MeHTJ1pOBaJIJ1. qaw.e BaJIJ1 npHMoyrOJIhHhIH r-pyzrrr, B,uOJIh paapeaa. YRpallTaJIJ1 y'laCTRJ1 na CJIY'laHX MaHmeThI, pence B

acer o BhIIlIJ1Y'laCTOR Bo MHOrJ1X pyfiaxu,

BhIllTJ1BROM nrre-rax. py6ax

BOPOT M nOJIhI

QeJIOM ,llJIH MymCRJ1X TJ1nJ1'1HhIM 8hlpe3HOH

HaJ160JIee RpyrJIbIH MhIM

.RBJIHJICH

BOPOT C npanpOTHmeHJ1J1 pac-

paspeaora. aexa

Ha

XIX
pona

nOHBJ1JIJ1Ch pa3JIJ1'1HOrO HaJ160JIee HBJIHJICH HeBhI-

BOPOTHJ1RJ1 -

npocrpaaennsrra
MhIM na TOM. nozi CROH paapes CTOpOHy. paapeaora, nyrOBJ1Qbl.

CORJ1H CTOH'IJ1H BOPOTHJ1R C npHCRpenJIHBllTJ1HCH 1I0JIe BOpOTHJ1Ra opnawrenpaapeaora ROCOH 3aBH3RaMM J1JIJ13aCTerJ1BaBIIIJ1HCH

3a'laCTYJO

YRpallTaJIJ1 C npHMbIM

Haparry

BJIJ1HHJ1eM PYCCROH J1 YRpaJ1Ho,uem,uhl ua nOHBJ1JICH rrpanyto ROHQY J1JIJ1 JIeBYJO nerca aaxa80-

XIX

JIJ1 WJ1Tb pyfiaxn pOTHJ1ROM.

C OTJIOmHbIM

MYJKCKI1E
HeCROJIhRO
OpHaM€HT

lIlT ARhI

J1MeJIJ1 B Tpa,uJ1MaTeMOmHO

BapJ1aHTOB

noxpoa

xapajerepa aa r pyzta MY>KCKO"py6ax .. (EA..He4K.... pa"OH)

paCTI1T€JIbHOrO

3aBJ1CJ1MOCTMOT MeCTHhlX QJ1H. 110 nORpoJO J1 Ra'leCTBY pJ1aJIa 3TOT BJ1,u o,uem,ubI na

Vegetable (Yedintsy

ornament District)

at the front of men's shirt

pa3,lleJIMTh

CJIe,uYJOw.J1e TJ1nhI:

91

chi leu gnrguy). referring to an ancient type of footwear, ubiquitous in the Balkan Peninsula, were current in the North, toeless opinchi, evenly tightened with folds in the front, were worn in other Moldavian regions. At the turn of the 20th century, with the appearance in the courltryside of factory and handicraft footwear - high boots, bootshomemade opin('hi became the poor peasants' foot-wear. MEN had no specific adornments. A ring on the hand was a widely used one. In the 18th - 19th centuries men sometimes had an ear-ring in one ear. There was a habit, according to which, if a child died in a family, an ear-ring was thrusted through the succeeding one's ear, so that the child would be "tenacious of life". At the end of the 19th century, the vogue of wearing neckerchiefs (testemel), borrowed from town, extended to the country youth. From the beginning of the 20th century, in the North of Moldavia, men started using pendants of a truss of variegated beads, resemblmg women's. HERDSMEN'S clothes differed from that of agriculturists'. If cultivators were wearing izmcne or wide trousers of the Ukrainian type, herdsmen as a rule, were clad in narrow itsar. A wide leather belt, a fur sleeveless jacket and a fur mantle were distinctive

CTapHHHbI:H

KOMTIJI€KC

TIaCTYIll€CKO:H

OP;€lKP;bI

Ancient

complex

of shepherd's

clothes

OpHaMeHT Ha MaHmeTe MymcKoM (QHMI1111JII1HCKl1ti pajron]

pyfiax a

rOTOBJIRJII1 TOHROrO nOJIOTHa, TOM.

caanefinsre
YRpallIeHHOrO

U3MeUe

113

Ornament at the cuff of men's shirt (Chimishliya District)

XJIonQaTo6YMamHOrO OpHaMeH-

C npOHI1RHOBeHl1eM B HaQaJIe XX .nexa B CeJIO O.n;em.n;hI cpa6pl1QHOrO np0I13BO.n;CTBa MeHReTCR Ha3HaQeHl1e I1X CTaJII1 HOfiern,e, rroaepx

XOJIw.eBhIe (U3MeUe), urepcr-am.te (U'ltapb), 3l1MHl1e mepc'rsrasre urraHhl (6epneBU"ib, U3apaJICb, "ibOa-

U3MeUe

CI1Th RaR HaTeJIhHOe ROTOpOrO 6PIORI1. O.n;I1H

pe-c»]

11 3l1MHl1e

113 one-rsnx

uncyp

Ha.n;eBaJII1 113

noxymn.re
Mym-

(MeWUUb).
Hal160JIee MI1 I1JII1 6hIJIl1 unrecn

pacnpoc'rpanennsrU3MeUe,
113rOTOBJIRBROHOnJIRHoi1 TRaHI1. HOCI1-

ROMnJIeRCOB

CROi1 O.n;em.n;hI, paCnpOCTpaHeHHhIX B CeBepHhIX ROi1 U'ltaPb panouax pecny6JIl1Rl1 B Ce6R 11 B MOJI.n;aBCRI1X CeJIaX QepHOBI1Q06JIaCTI1, BRJIIOQaJI Y3Rl1e 11 .n;JII1HHhIe 6eJIhIe 113 .n;OMOTRaHoi1 urepc r ROCOI1X paanoii

113 JIhHRHoi1,

x.norr-ra-rofiyraaacrroii CJIyml1JII1 BpeMR. o.n;em.n;oi1, ROTOpylO CeJIaX

M3MeHe
pafio-ren ROTOPhIX RaR JIaX

nOBCe.n;HeBHoi1 O.n;HaRO B HeHOCI1JII1 11 B ce113onexcny. pationa

JII1 B JIeTHee

urram.r
HOi1

U3MeUe

MaTepl1l1. OHa

Xaparcrepaon
RBJIRJIaCh 6hITh MOrJIa

npa3.n;HI1QHYIO

6eHHOCThIO .n;JII1Ha:

U'ltaPb

BYJIRaHellITCROro

93

details of a herdsman's outfit. A short sheepskin coat, worn fur outside (guba, burka. sarika) was a predominant herdsman's habit. RITUAL vestiture did not differ from the gala one in its fashion and material. For a wedding, a holiday-like garment was sewn for a fiance, and for a bride, besides it, a bridal veil was prepared; guests were tied up with a towel, while sponsor ials at a wedding - with two ones. Besides, the fiance decorated its hat with a bouquet of artificial flowers, or feathered it. The upper part of the fiance's garment would be ornamented with a white bow, while the arms of best men were tied up with a small white kerchief, or a small bow of white cloth would be fastened on their breasts. The ritual clothes of the Rybnitsa District had their own peculiarities. Over there, sponsorials at a wedding, according to the custom, used to put embroidered napkins on the chest, the shoulders and the back.

94

PaCTl1Te.nbHbIH OpHaMeHT

Ha r-pyzm My>KCKOH pyfiax .. (4)JIOpeIllTCK>1H pa aon) Vegetable ornament at the front of men's shirt (Floreshty District)
paCTI1TeJIbHbli1 opHaMeHT

Ha rpYll>1 MY:>KCKOHpy6ax (KaMeHCI<>1H pairox)

..

Vegetable ornament at the front of men's shirt (Kamenka District)

III III III III III III afIln "trf'htlhfll III 1IFtlfJ~~ III . III III

III

IIII " II 1111

'11"

1111
1111

n.-tt;~~ -

II" 1111 1111

111,-""""-

III '"t1IiIl~~ '" I 1111 1111

,19

-..r--"",

"'~~:!JI'1I11

1111 1111 1111

III III -

~BP'-

""
1111
1111

III
II II II II II

~~~IIII -r:

1111
1111 If"

1111

~_~IPllt:f' IIII 1111

" ........."""W"",...".,.",

II
II II

" "

~~r"ll1111 -

1111 1111 1111 1111,

'" I 1111

1111

1111 ---_-------------_._- --------------------- - - -- --- - - ----- ..__-- ~--- ---- -----.._._ _..._

II II III

III

BbIllH1TbI:H

paCTHTe.nbHhI:i1

opaaeaen-r aa MymcKoi1: py6axe (CTpalileliCKUH pafion ). Embroidered vegetable ornament at men's shirt (Strasheny District) BhIlUHBKa aa MaH>KeT€ MymcKoi1 pyfiax n (COpOKCKHH paaou) Embroidery at the cuff shirt (Sorok i District)
7 Mall. No 27

of men's