C. B.

Gitty’s
Fretting Do’s and Don’ts
Note: This guide is by no means exhaustive. See the list of resources below for
places to get more information on how to properly fret / repair stringed
instruments. This simple guide is offered as-is, without warranty or guarantee,
and is to be used at your own risk. There is a very real possibility of ruining
your frets, and perhaps your entire fretboard, if fretting is done improperly.

General Fretting Steps:

Most standard fretwork can be done with tools found in a decently equipped wood shop, or with tools
that can be purchased from your local hardware store.

1) Many fret wires come with a light coating of grease left over from the milling process. Be sure to
clean off this grease, especially if you intend to use glue to help hold the frets in place. A solvent
such as naptha can help to remove all traces of the grease.
2) Carefully remove any old frets, or if doing new fretwork, properly measure fret slots and cut to
recommended width and depth (see fret wire description for recommended depth/width of fret
slot).
3) Press the fret wire length into the slot, preferably leaving some overhang on both ends. Make sure
fret wire “tang” (the bit that goes into the slot) is vertical, and that the fret does not roll over.
4) Use a scrap piece of hardwood and a small hammer to gently tap the fret wire into the slot. Move
the scrap back and forth over the length of the fret wire while tapping. Be sure the fret wire does
not roll over while doing this, as it could mar the fretboard. Also make sure that your wood scrap
does not contact the fretboard while tapping, as this could dent it. It may take a bit of harder
tapping to get it seated, but you shouldn’t have to really pound on it.
5) Most fretwork experts recommend trying to seat the fret with as few taps as possible, to avoid
warping or bending it. Work from the outside edges of the fret board in, to avoid bowing the fret
which will make the ends not seat properly.
6) Make sure all frets are fully seated into their slots. Improperly seated frets will cause buzzing and
bad intonation. If frets are too loose in their slots, consider getting frets with a wider tang. You can
also use nippers to try to widen your fret wire’s tang. Superglue can be used to help keep a
stubborn fret end down. Glue, such as an epoxy, should be considered a last resort for keeping your
frets in place when nothing else has worked.
7) Use end nippers (side cutters also will work) to carefully trim the fret wire length flush with the edge
of the fretboard. Be careful not to mar the fret board or binding, if any.
8) Use a flat file to smooth off and properly angle the fret ends, removing any burs or edges that would
snag fingers. Specially made angled files are best for this, but careful use of a regular file works too.
You want to make sure the fret ends are as smooth as possible – nobody likes sharp frets when
playing.
9) Use fine-grit sandpaper (such as 400 or 600 grit) to finish the fret ends and smooth them off.
10) Use a metal straight-edge ruler to check that all frets are level. If any are too high, gently file them
down. Ideally the frets should be re-crowned with a fret file after being filed down; however, a fret
file is a specialized piece of luthier equipment and you aren’t likely to have one.
Page 1 of 2
Other Do’s and Don’ts:
o Do carefully measure and mark your fret slots based on the scale length of your instrument, if fretting a
new instrument. This is not necessary for repair work. Scale length/fretting calculators can be found
online.
o Do be careful when removing old frets, if doing repair work. It is easy to chip/gouge the fingerboard.
Glue any chips back down as soon as possible to prevent losing them.
o Do be careful not to let the fret wire roll over while tapping it in – this can damage the fretboard.
o Do make sure all frets are securely seated in their slots.
o Do be sure to smooth off and bevel the ends of the fret wires.
o Do consider practicing on a piece of scrap before tackling your valuable instrument.
o DO NOT start out with a valuable instrument for your first attempt at fretting! Practice on older less-
valuable instruments first, or at least practice on mock necks made out of scrap!
o Don’t rush through fretting. It requires patience and precision (and some practice) to do right.
o Don’t use too wide of a saw to cut your fret slots, to ensure proper seating.
o Don’t use glue to hold in your frets if you can avoid it. Glue should be considered a last resort.

List of Resources:
Sections on Fretting can be found in most books written on making/repairing stringed instruments. Ones
that have been of particular use to me are:
Fret Work Step by Step, by Dan Erlewine, published by Stewart MacDonald.
The Bouzouki Book, by Graham McDonald. Published in 2004 by Graham McDonald Stringed Instruments.
The Ultimate Bluegrass Mandolin Construction Manual, by Roger H, Siminoff. Hal Leonard Corporation, 2004.
Making Folk Instruments in Wood, by Dennis Waring. Published in 1979 by Sterling Publishing Company.

Useful Websites:
 A decent Fretting Calculator: http://www.sirgalahad.org/paul/fretcalc.html
 Some good general fretting information and a fret calculator:
http://www.stewmac.com/fretscales/scalelength. Stewart MacDonald is also a great source of more
advanced luthiery tools, and other free guides!

If you are Interested in Cigar Box Guitars and other Hand-made Instruments:
 www.handmademusicclubhouse.com – A friendly community focused on the art of building various
hand-made instruments, including Cigar Box Guitars. Many pictures, videos and builder how-to
advice.
 www.cigarboxnation.com – Full of all sorts of great advice and knowledgeable people interested in
building, playing and generally promoting Cigar Box Guitars.

Good luck with your fretting!

If you are looking for a more in-depth guide to fret work, check out
http://www.cbgitty.com for my other offerings including my 40-page full-color
introductory fretting guide on CD!
Page 2 of 2