Subject: Apparel Manufacturing

Unit 7: Quality Assurance

Quadrant 1 – E-Text

Learning Objectives

The learning objectives of this unit are:

 Describe the different methods of maintaining quality in the apparel manufacturing

industry.
 Outline the standards and guidelines used in the apparel industry.

7.1 Introduction to Apparel Quality Assurance

The word quality has multiple meanings. Two of those meanings are critical, not only to quality
planning, but to strategic business planning as well. They are, ‘product performance ‘ and ‘
freedom from deficiencies '. In the sense of performance, quality refers to the performance
features of a product. Such features are decisive regarding product performance and product
satisfaction. They compete with each other in the market place.
External customers, especially ultimate users, compare competing performances. Their
comparisons then become a factor in deciding whose product will be bought. Due to the
competition in the market place, a primary goal for product performance is to be equal or
superior to the quality of competing products. The word quality also refers to freedom from
deficiencies, which takes many forms, such as late deliveries, customer claims and returns, high
rate of rework and even cancellation of sales. These are collectively forms of product
dissatisfaction.
Some deficiencies impact external customers and hence, are a threat to future sales as well as a
source of higher costs. Other deficiencies impact only customers and hence, are mainly a source
of higher costs. For quality in the sense of freedom from deficiencies, the long-range goal is
perfection.
Quality is Prevention
Constructing solutions to problems before they occur and designing excellence into a product or
service.
Quality is Customer Satisfaction
It is the delight of the ultimate judge of how well products and services measure up.
Quality is Productivity
Quality is Productivity from employees who receive training, tools and instruction they need to
execute their jobs.
Quality is Flexibility
It is the willingness to change to meet demands.
Quality is Efficiency
It is doing things quickly and correctly.
Quality is Meeting
It is a schedule being on time.
Quality is a Process
It is the process of on-going improvement.
Quality is an Investment
Because reaping a payoff in the long run, doing it right the first time is less expensive than
correcting it later.
7.2 Making Quality Measurable
Many companies require regular reports, but take no action to bring about improvements as a
result of those reports. A heavy focus is placed on measuring systems and methods, instead of
results and possible improvements. Measuring a process without improving it leads to increased
costs and lower product quality. 46% of all new product development costs are due to failures,
because measurements are not monitored and effective solutions not planned.
What gets measured gets managed. Conduct of the quality function depends heavily on the
quantification of the product and process characteristics. The process of quantification is called
measurement. The measurement results are dependent on the standards being used. Improvement
occurs when the measured results are monitored and compared against standards, resulting in
actions.
The measurement of current performance is essential for continuous quality improvement. What
cannot be measured cannot be improved. There is no end to quality improvement processes when
results are continuously monitored. Companies measure sales, profits, growth and other
parameters to satisfy stakeholders. It is better to monitor the process that provides these results,
rather than measure the results alone. Results will follow when input is controlled and the
process is monitored.

Controlling Quality
An effective control system is required to ensure that the whole product stream meets
specifications, with only a tolerable amount of exception. Most companies follow the three-tyre
system of quality checking. The best results have been found to be achieved with the system
which has three component activities, linked by a management report. They are: In-process
sampling, 100% examination and quality audit.

Quality Assurance
Quality assurance refers to the assurance to customers that the product, parts, components and
tools contain specified characteristics and is fit for the intended use. In today’s competitive
industrial world, no business unit can exist for a long time without adhering to quality. Now the
assurance of quality is not the responsibility of a senior person or a department only. Only the
inspection department or its personnel cannot be held responsible for assurance of quality. It is
the responsibility of everybody connected with production, directly or indirectly and each
department.
The main objectives of quality control are: to identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric, to
decide to cut the fabric lot or not, to increase productivity of the cutting department.
Quality first products require quality piece goods. Even the most outstanding manufacturing
methods cannot compensate for defective materials. You can use these recommendations to help
create an aggressive piece goods quality control programme, and eliminate many quality
problems before the manufacturing process begins.

7.3 Inspection Guidelines

Here are some inspection guidelines:

 The fabric store should always inspect the fabric as soon as it reaches the facility.
 Always store the fabric in a clean, moisture free environment.
 As soon as the fabric arrives, a swatch, (of dimensions as specified by the laboratory),
should be submitted to a laboratory, to check the fabric for adherence to fabric
performance standards that are required.

Many companies prefer to undertake fabric checking while spreading, though at ABC Garments,
the fabric is checked beforehand as a separate operation. This is because, while spreading, a
spreader is concerned primarily with spreading the fabric and not to inspect the quality of the
fabric.

Inspection Standards to be followed are:

 The Four Point System

  Fabric Meterage to Inspect
 Roll Size
 Selection of Rolls
 Defect Classification
 Acceptance Point Count

The 4-Point System

The 4-point system is widely accepted in the textile and garment trade, because it is easy to
understand and implement. This system also lays down standards that are proven and acceptable
in the garment trade and it is recommended to use the same system while checking fabric.

Fabric Meterage to Inspect

In this system:

 At least 10% of the meterage is to be inspected.

 For a shipment or order of upto 200 meters, it is recommended that inspection should be
carried out for100% piece goods.
 For a shipment between 200 - 2000 meters, inspection should be done for at least 200
meters or 10%, whichever is greater.

Roll Size
For better utilisation of fabric, it is suggested that there should not be more than 10-15% of
“short rolls” that is rolls of 20 meters and less in an order.

Selection of Rolls
At least one roll of each colour that is even if it exceeds 10% of the total meterage, should be
selected.

In case, more than one roll per colour is to be checked, then select the number in proportion to
the number of total rolls per colour received.

7.4 Defect Classification

The 4-point system classifies defects as shown in the table.

Length of Defect, either length or width Penalty Points

 3 Inches or less 1 Point
Over 3, but not over 6 inches 2 Points
Over 6, but not over 9 inches 3 Points
Over 9 inches 4 Points
Holes and openings
1 inch or less 2 points
Over 1 inch 4 Points

A maximum of 4 points is charged to one linear meter. Defects less than 1” from the selvedge of
the fabric will not be counted. Only major defects are considered.

Major Defect
A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be a ‘second’.

Note: When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to rate questionable defects
as major, since the Inspector will not know where the defect may occur on the item.

Minor Defect
A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because of severity or
location. No penalty points are recorded for minor defects.

Classification of Major Defects

Major Defects are classified as major woven fabric defects, major knitted fabric defects, major
dye or printing defects.

Acceptance Point Count

This method of acceptance uses a projection of total defects based on the number of defects
found in an inspection of a sample.
Example:
The points are calculated on a 100 square meter basis.
To calculate the average points/100 square meters for the shipment:

Total points counted for all rolls inspected x 39 x 100

_______________________________________________

Total meters inspected x Cut table width (inches)

Up to 40 points per 100 square meters is the acceptable defect rate.

7.5 Quality Control - Spreading and Cutting

The objectives of Quality Control – Spreading and Cutting are to ensure that all garment parts
are cut as per the pattern, decide if garment parts have to be recut, increase productivity of the
sewing room.

Inspection Guidelines

Spreading is not considered an important operation during garment manufacture. It is normally

carried out manually, without the supervision of the cutting master and is a critical checkpoint.
The post-sewing measurement defects found in a garment can in most cases be attributed to in-
correct spreading and cutting.

Checking for Defects

While spreading, the quality assurance inspector should check the fabric lay for the following
defects.

In Case of a Marker
Always compare the marker with the original pattern.
Marker Making
Ensure that all parts of a particular garment appear on the marker. Check for the smaller parts
[collars/cuffs] and their presence in pairs.
Marker Placement
To check that the marker is placed on the spread and the edge is parallel to the selvedge of the
piece goods. Ensure that all cut pieces are complete.
Table Marks
Check the table for all table marks. Allow no minus tolerance for splicing [a minimum of one
inch of overlap].
Markers
Ensure that the marker is not creased, damaged or has overlapped parts.
Marker Blueprint
Make a random check of some measurements in the marker. Sometimes, while making a
blueprint of the marker, unknowingly, the marker gets pulled. This distorts the sizes.
Spread Height
Ensure that the height of the spread is at least two inches less than the cutting blade knife. In case
of knits, ensure that the ply height is stable.

Narrow Goods
After completion of the spread, check the far edges of the spread to see that all piles extend
beyond the marker line.

Tension and Creasing

Ensure that there is no artificial/excessive tension due to a very ‘tight’ spread. Also check
randomly for any creasing of the fabric.

Leaning
Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the table top. Visually inspect to
ensure the alignment to the edge with the table top.

Count
Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count all plies at both ends.
There should be no tolerance.

Checking for Defects

Often changes are made to markers to adjust certain production problems. Under no
circumstance should such an act be undertaken. In case such a situation arises, all changes should
be made in consultation with ABC Garment’s merchandisers or quality inspectors. Should there
be any changes required in the pattern or marker, a new pattern and marker should be developed.
Under no circumstance should changes be made on the same marker. Under no circumstance
should any tolerance be allowed in spreading or cutting, as such a defect would lead to
accelerated defects while sewing.

The Role of the Spreading Inspector

The Spreading Inspector should inform the spreading master or cutting masters of the
irregularities in the spreading and ensure that corrective steps are taken. In case of re-spreading
or re-development of the marker, the Inspector should decide on the date along with the spreader
and inform ABC Garment’s Quality Inspector.

Inspection Guidelines
When inspecting: Always try and inspect without disturbing the cut block. This is essential in
case the particular piece has to be re-cut. Do not disturb the order of the cut pieces as they have
not yet been numbered.

Inspection Standard to be Followed

These are some of the important inspection standards to be followed: Number of parts to inspect,
selection of garment Cut-Parts, defect classification. It is recommended that at least 50% of the
garment parts in the marker be inspected. Parts cut on different types of cutting machines are to
be taken in the ratio 1:1. This is recommended so that it takes care of both the small and big parts
of the garment. For example, the big parts of a Polo shirt are cut on the straight knife and the
small parts are cut on the band knife.

For the purpose of inspection, the parts chosen for size ‘M’ would be Fronts, back and Sleeves
for the Straight Knife and Placket, Yoke half-moon, Cuffs for the Band Knife.
In case all garment parts are cut on one type of cutting machine, the parts selected should be a
combination of both the big and small parts. In case, there are a lot of measurement problems
observed in the sewing room, it is advisable that all garment parts be checked in the cutting
room.

In case of particular problems in measurements, such as under or exceeding tolerances, as

evident from past records, the quality team should check all the garment parts in the cutting room
as per the recommended system.

Defect Classification
Miscuts
Check for miscuts or for the failure of the cutter to “split the line”. Tolerance is +/- 1/16”.

Ragged Cutting
This is a judgment defect. For certain parts such as pockets and collars, ragged cutting can be a
critical problem, whereas, for some parts like the front the defect would be less severe in case the
ragged edges are not too severe.

Notches
The notch location should be checked by placing the pattern over the top ply. Tolerance is +/-
1/8”.

Check Pattern
Compare the pattern to the marker to ensure that the marker was correct.

Slant Knife
Check the top and last ply for slant knife. This occurs while cutting when the knife blade tilts and
results in a difference in sizes throughout the ply height.

Measurement Checks
Tolerance for: Straight Knife - 3 mm, Band Knife - 2 mm, Dye-cuts - 1 mm.

Assess Wastage of Fabric

The Quality Inspector should try and assess the wastage of fabric in cutting. In a situation, where
excessive wastage is found for example, end wastage, the inspector should make a note and
discuss it with the Senior Management.
Quality Control - Sewing
This system describes how monitoring of quality is an on-going process and not merely a control
mechanism. The approach of this method is to be pro-active rather than corrective. The entire
system revolves around “building” quality into the garment and not “inspecting” quality into the
garment.

7.6 Inspection Guidelines

Sewing defects begins and ends with the operator. It has been noticed that in most cases, the
operator is not aware of what is required from him or her in terms of stitching quality. It is thus
imperative that one sealed sample that is a sample as per order; correct fabric and trims, be
available and easily accessible to all operators at the shop floor. In case of certain garment parts
that require a skilful operation or for a critical operation, the operator should be given a sample
of the same for their ready reference. The broad objective of this is that there should never be
any legitimate reason for someone not knowing what is happening.

7.7 The 3-Part System

The 3-part system is suggested to be used in the sewing room. The components of the 3-part
system are:

1. In-process sampling
2. 100% Inspection
3. Quality Audit

In Process Sampling
Sampling is more economical and feasible than checking everything. A proper sampling system
can give results that are closely representative of the actual situation. Attention can also be
focussed on areas where defects are being produced. The objectives of in-process sampling are,
maintaining a steady and tight control over all operators, and concentrating attention where poor
quality is being produced.

Inspection Guidelines
The “Inspector” should be a person not directly responsible for production.
The Inspector should have adequate knowledge of the garment being produced in terms of
tolerances, stitching details, workmanship quality that is required and manufacturing standards
for the garment.

The Quality Inspection Sheet should describe:

 The part or parts they are to stitch together.

  The workmanship quality pertaining to that particular part for example, a straight seam
or a curved one.
 Any quality problems that might occur at their particular operation.
 The tolerance pertaining to their sewing operation.

This information should be available to the operator at their workstation where it is easy to read.
It should be legible, that is it should be neat and if required in the local language. It is the
responsibility of the supervisor that each operator understands his or her specification clearly,
before production starts.

Depending on the results of the check, the whole bundle is accepted as being of satisfactory
quality or rejected as being unsatisfactory. The rules, which decide what constitutes a
satisfactory or unsatisfactory bundle, are laid down as part of the factory’s system. Accepted
bundles should proceed to the next operation while the rejected bundles are passed to the
supervisor for action.

When the operator has been cleared he or she is not checked again, until her name comes up in
the normal random sampling procedure. In this way, the Inspector keeps checking a operator
whose quality is bad, while still going around the factory checking other operators. Of course,
neither the Inspector nor the Supervisor is expected to calmly allow an operator to remain
“uncleared for quality” for long. The supervisor will speak to the operator on the first rejection,
and should take urgent action after a second rejection to find out what is wrong, and cure it.

An important point of this system is that at no time does the Inspector return the work directly to
the operator; only the supervisor returns work for repair. The operator is responsible for that
particular section and should review all work that is being returned. The operator will then judge
the reason for the defect and take appropriate action, dealing with operator, machine or cut work.

The ideal situation is where the supervisor feels that the Inspector is there to help her, by finding
quality problems for her before they become serious. This attitude must be introduced from the
start when installing a sampling system. The supervisor should be educated to see the Inspector
as a helper, an extra pair of eyes, not someone there to create trouble. Unless the supervisors and
Inspectors co-operate, the system will not work.

Apart from this relationship with the supervisor, the Inspector must be able to understand what is
being looked for. The Inspector should also interpret quality specifications and have sufficient
confidence in her own judgement to insist that a mistake is a mistake, even when the supervisor
says “That’s not too bad, it can go on.”

Parameters
There are 4 parameters that need to be defined before starting in-process sampling.
LOT

The collection of garments / parts from where the sample is to be taken.

Example: 1 bundle.

SAMPLE SIZE
The number of garments / parts to be taken for inspection from the lot.
Example: 6 garments from one bundle of 25 pieces.

ACCEPTANCE NUMBER
The number of faulty garments / parts that a sample may have without the entire lot being
rejected.
Example: 0 out of 6. If there is even 1 defective piece in the sample the entire lot will be
rejected.

CLEARANCE NUMBER
The number of lots that must be accepted in succession to take the operator out of the clearance
procedure.
Example: 1 lot.

7.8 100% Examination

It is the process to check all stitched garments and some garment parts in production. 100%
examination should be done within the line and at the end of the line. The objective of a 100%
inspection is to prevent defective garments from being passed, repair faulty garments and remove
the cause of the defects, prevent faulty garments from being passed as “perfect”. It is likely that
after the in-process sampling some faulty garments will be produced.

Examination is a stage in the production sequence and is normally regarded as an operation.

Most factories examine at the end of the making operations and sometimes at the end of
finishing.
In other factories, examination is combined with thread trimming. On one hand the trimmer is
going over the seams anyway, and you may as well examine at the same time. On the other hand,
trimming and examining call for different types of operators, and some operators tend to trim and
forget to examine. Whether or not these operations are combined, depends on the personnel of
the factory.

For economic reasons, there should be as few examination points as possible. On the other hand,
for easy repairs, examination points should be placed before any operation which oversees an
earlier one. To reconcile these opposing objectives, it should be considered how many defects
are actually being produced by each operation, how many are found at the examination point and
whether or not these defects will be visible in the finished garment. The usual position for in-line
examination points is after a critical component has been made, before attaching it to the main
garment. For example, after ‘making a shirt collar’.

Inspection Guidelines
The Inspector should be trained to inspect. This implies that there should be a pre-defined set of
actions that is undertaken, to examine each garment or part for visual, measurement and
workmanship.

Examination tends to be a boring job and any Inspector can become ‘mesmerised’ after a while
and simply not see what is being looked at. To help avoid this, an operation description must be
written for this job, detailing how the Inspector should check the garment. The Inspector should
be positioned within the line, similar to a sewing operation.

The Inspector
The Inspector should have a workstation that is adequately large to handle the garment part that
is to be checked, as well as the reports, and other work aids that are required to carry out the
inspection.

The Inspector should have adequate authority not to send a bundle to the next operation in case
faults are found. Under no circumstance should an inspector be harassed by the operator to pass
on the bundle, just because the production target for the day has to be met.

Quality Audit
Quality audit is an examination of a small number of garments from the finished stock from
sewing.
These are taken as representative of the quality that is going to the finishing room. All end-line
checkers are audited individually, 4 times a day to ensure control on the checking efficiency of
end-line checkers. The objectives of a quality audit are to: Check the other parts of the system,
obtain figures which can be compared with figures of in-process sampling, and final inspection,
giving comparisons of the effectiveness of the above two systems, look at the garment from the
customer’s viewpoint and analyze results.

Inspection Guidelines
The Auditor for the Sewing floor should be a qualified and experienced Quality Controller, and
should be able to check a garment thoroughly as per buyer’s specifications. The Auditor should
himself randomly pick up the garments from each checker’s passed pieces. These pieces should
not be given to him by the supervisor or any other personnel. He should audit each checker at
least 4 times a day, in order to get a representative checking efficiency of the checker.

This is the formula for checking the efficiency of a checker.

Checking Efficiency = 100% Inspection DHU x 100

100% Inspection DHU + Quality Audit DHU

Washing and Finishing Audit

For the washing or finishing audit, emphasis should be given to areas affected by washing or
finishing, such as trimming holes and fraying at the collar due to washing. Quality Audit is an
everyday process and should be undertaken without fail.

It is recommended that 100% inspection and an audit be carried out either after washing or
finishing. In case, the wash process is rigorous or a special wash is being done, it is advisable to
check all garments after washing. It is recommended that the garments be slightly ironed and
then inspected. The main objective of a 100% inspection is to identify defects that occur after
washing.

Inspection Guidelines
When inspecting, emphasis should be on those areas that are affected by washing, such as button
attachment and fraying of collars. The inspection could be combined with thread trimming in
case of normal washes. It is recommended that the garments be ironed lightly before inspection.
This eases out the creases from the garment and aids the inspectors in identifying defects.

Finishing Quality Audit

Finishing Quality Audit is an examination of small number of garments passed by the Checkers
from finished stock. These are taken as representative of the finished quality going to customers
as “firsts”. It is recommended that Daily Quality Audits are conducted to ensure consistency in
quality. It is acceptable to inspect a small number of garments thoroughly. However, under no
circumstance should the audit be missed or its results overlooked.

The main objectives of the Finishing Quality Audits are, to check the other parts of the system
and to obtain figures which can be compared with figures of 100% final inspection. This will
give comparisons of the effectiveness of the above system. Finally, it allows an inspection to be
done from the customer’s viewpoint and to analyze results.

Inspection Guidelines
The Auditor for the Checkers audit should be a qualified and experienced Quality Controller, and
should be able to check a garment thoroughly as per the buyer’s specifications.

The Auditor should himself randomly pick up the garments from each checker’s passed pieces.
These pieces should not be given to him by the supervisor or any other personnel. He should do
and audit of each checker at least 4 times a day in order to get a representative checking
efficiency of the checker.

Pre-shipment Quality Audit

Quality audit is an examination of small number of garments from finished stock. A quality audit
is recommended to be followed after packing of the goods begins. The audit should be conducted
daily to ensure that the shipment is of consistent quality. These are taken as representative of the
finished quality going to customers as “firsts”.

The main objectives of the Pre-shipment Quality Audit are to check the other parts of the system,
obtain figures which can be compared with figures of in-process sampling and final inspection,
giving comparisons of the effectiveness of the above two systems, look at the garment from the
customer’s viewpoint and analyze results.

Inspection Guidelines

The Auditor for a quality audit should ideally be from the senior management and should try and
scrutinize the product from the buyer’s point of view. The Auditor should himself randomly pick
up the garments to inspect from the day’s production. These pieces should not be given to him by
the supervisor or any other personnel.

Quality Audit
Quality Audit is an everyday process and should be undertaken without fail. The following
points must be checked for conformity with standard:

 Carton size. Oversized cartons are not allowed.

 Carton quality. This includes the carton gross weightas well as net weight.
 Carton tape.
 Cartons should not have factory or the vendor’s name and address printed on them.
 Cartons marking should be clearly marked.
 Un-assorted or broken pre-pack carton numbers packing list must show all the details.
 Packed quantity.
 Packing size ratio in a carton.
 All garments to be packed along with individual polybags.
 That loose pieces are not packed.
  The type of fold according to packing instructions.
 For correct Bar coded ticket with correct placement.
o Use scanners to read the bar codes.
 Size clips that are present, if required.
 Hang tag positions.
 Adhesive size strip placement.
 Garments for workmanship, fit and measurement quality as per the washing audit.

7.9 Conclusion

In this unit, you have learnt about In-process sampling, 100% sampling and quality audit. You
have also learnt about quality assurance for raw materials, spreading and cutting, sewing,
finishing and packing. You have also been given an overview of inspection standards and
guidelines for various stages of manufacturing apparel.