Chapter 1

Understanding the Different Types of LED Grow Lights Available

Chapter 2

The Pros and Cons of the Different Types of Grow Lights Available

11

Chapter 3

10 Things You Must Look For When Choosing LED Grow Lights

19

Chapter 4

LED Grow Lights: Footprints and Planning

22

Chapter 5

Learn Your LEDs: Lighting Metrics for Growers

26

Chapter 6

Overcoming Sticker Shock: The Return on Investment of LED Grow Lights

29

Chapter 7

The Effects of LEDs on Plants

31

Chapter 8

LEDs: Pros and Cons

34

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 Chapter 9

The Latest in LEDs

38

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 Chapter 1

Understanding the different types of LED Grow Lights Available

Introduction
Just 10 years ago, LEDs had yet to find a place in the indoor gardening market. The high price
tag, teamed with disappointing results, made most serious gardeners avoid LEDs like the plague.
Today, things are much different. Horticultural LEDs have found a solid place in the market and
continue to increase in popularity. Much of this has to do with the numerous benefits offered by LED
technology.

Cooler operating temperatures, longevity and the ability to customize spectral outputs are
some of the benefits of using LED grow lights. And there are now many companies offering these
lights at an affordable price. The more-affordable price, combined with all of the other benefits of
growing with LEDs, has both novice and professional growers turning to LEDs as their primary light
source.

Unfortunately, it is not always easy to distinguish a good LED lighting system from a bad one.
Many variables must be considered when determining the effectiveness of an LED grow light. If
you’re hoping to find the best and brightest LED on the market, you will need to take a close look at
the components that most affect the lighting system’s efficiency.

For example, an HID lighting system has three components that affect the lighting system’s
overall performance: the bulb, the ballast and the reflector. An LED lighting system has four

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components that significantly affect the system’s overall performance: the driver, the lens, the
heat-sink and the LED itself. Let’s look at each component in some detail.

The Driver of an LED Lighting System

An LED driver is an electrical device that regulates the amount of electricity delivered to the
light or string of lights, similar to an HID system’s ballast. LED drivers respond to the changing needs
of the grow lights by providing a constant quantity of power to the LED as the electronic properties
change with temperature.

The driver also converts the AC from the wall outlet to DC for the diodes. LEDs are
low-wattage light sources that require a constant DC voltage to operate optimally. Each LED has a
manufacturer’s recommendation when it comes to voltage or current. If the current exceeds the
manufacturer’s recommendation, the LEDs may become brighter but the light output will degrade at a
faster rate due to the increased temperature, so it is important that the LED driver is sized according
to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

This brings up one of the most confusing aspects of LED lighting: the wattage draw. Many
companies advertise horticultural LEDs by both the lighting system’s theoretical wattage draw and its
actual wattage draw. The theoretical wattage draw refers to the total amount of wattage draw possible
for the unit.

For example, a system with 20 diodes capable of 5 W each would have a theoretical wattage
draw of 100 W. However, if the drivers within the system allow each of the 20 diodes to consume only
3 W, the actual wattage draw of the unit is 60 W. Why would anyone want to use a driver that would
only supply 3 W to a 5-W diode? The answer is longevity. By operating a 5-W LED at only 3 W, the
longevity of the diode increases greatly.

Essentially, the heat from the additional wattage would make the LED lose intensity more
quickly. Although there are good reasons for the existence of the theoretical draw on LED lighting
systems, it can be confusing for consumers. When comparing LED lighting systems, closely examine
the lighting system’s actual wattage draw versus the theoretical wattage.

The Lenses
The lenses for horticultural LED lighting systems can be split into two categories: primary and
secondary lenses.

Primary Lenses
The light emitted from an LED is the result of the current passing through the silicon in the
diode. Primary lenses are placed directly on the light-emitting portion of the diode to increase the

5
amount of light that emits from the silicon. Most LED systems use primary lenses. It is more efficient
to do so and does not increase the cost of the unit.

Secondary Lenses
Secondary lenses are placed beneath the primary lens to help focus the light into a wider or
narrower beam. Secondary lenses don’t increase the amount of light being emitted; they help direct
the light to better suit a particular application. Many LED manufacturers use secondary lenses as a
way to focus the light into a more intense beam. The problem with this is that as the light is focused
and the intensity increases to one area, light diffusion is lost and the total coverage area is
decreased.

The Heat-sink
A heat-sink is a passive heat exchanger that transfers heat from an electrical device to a
coolant. For horticultural LEDs, the heat-sink transfers heat from the LED or string of LEDs to the air,
which acts as the coolant. Most heat-sinks look like big, thick, metal combs and are usually placed
near the unit’s cooling fan.

The teeth of the comb allow the heat produced by the electrical current to be transferred to the
air. When shopping around for a lighting system, it is important to examine both the heat-sink and
cooling fan.

Larger heat-sinks combined with a cooling fan are nice for indoor gardens because the
ambient temperature of an indoor garden can run higher than normal living quarter conditions. If the
system is not effectively cooled by its heat-sink and fan, the unit will operate less efficiently and
degrade at a faster rate.

The LED
Just as not all HID light bulbs perform the same for horticultural purposes, there can be a lot of
variety in the diode, or LED itself, in a lighting system. The spectrum emitted by the diode is crucial to
the effectiveness of the lighting system. Particular wavelengths of light are more easily absorbed by
plants during photosynthesis and are used more frequently by plants than other spectrums.

In fact, some wavelengths of light are hardly used at all by plants. Lighting systems that
produce the most usable ratio of wavelengths will be more efficient than those that do not. This is the
main reason why LEDs are so exciting for the indoor gardening industry. The ability to customize LED
lighting systems means not only more efficient lighting systems, but also the ability to experiment with
the way plants respond to particular ratios of light wavelengths. Because of their customizability,
LEDs will play a huge role in the evolution of indoor gardening.

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 Aside from the actual color of light the diode produces, the quality of the diode should also be
taken into consideration. Think of each diode as its own electrical device. The materials used and the
manner in which it was constructed are significant to the diode’s light output and longevity. Just about
every LED manufacturer uses a tier system when grading their LEDs. It is always a good idea to ask
manufacturers a lot of questions when comparing LED lighting fixtures, including which tier their
diodes come from.

Finding the Right Light for Growing Plants

Not all horticultural LEDs are equal, and when looking at the specs of a system, you should
pay close attention to the components used in manufacturing the final product. The driver, the lenses
used, the heat-sink and the LEDs themselves all play significant roles in the lighting system’s
effectiveness for growing plants.

By closely examining the amount of PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) produced by a

light compared to the light’s actual wattage draw, you can make a fairly accurate prediction as to how
efficient the system will be. Due to the number of variables that affect an LED’s performance, it can
be difficult to find the right LED for your garden.

However, if close attention is paid to the quality of the components used and the light’s PAR
output versus the actual wattage draw, you can find the right system to meet your unique needs.

The technical advantages of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) lights—low power requirement, low
cost of operation, low heat output, high efficiency, compact form, precise direction and intensity
control, shock resistance and long life—have always been clear, but the high initial purchase cost has
prevented wider adoption.

Times are changing, though, and LEDs with higher intensities and lower costs are making it
this technology an ever-more attractive choice for grow lights. While the cost still gives potential users
pause, consider this—the cost per thousand lumens (kl) for LEDs dropped from $36 to $18 over the
course of a single year (2009 to 2010) and it is estimated that this price will decrease to as low as $2
per kl by 2015. That is an impressive price reduction in a short time.

More LED basics

LEDs are semiconductor devices, which makes them completely different than any other kind
of lighting on the market. LEDs are manufactured in foundries, or fabs, using the same kinds of
technology and equipment used to manufacture integrated circuits and microprocessors.

White or seemingly broad spectrum LED lamps are available for household use (reading
lamps, task lighting, etc.) and for portable use (flashlights, camping lamps, headlamps and the like),

7
but white is not a natural output color for an LED. In fact, one of the advantages of LED grow lights is
that they emit monochromatic light, or light in a very narrow wavelength band.

Since photosynthesis is preferentially driven by specific bands of red and blue light, LEDs offer
the opportunity to provide energy of the required wavelengths without wasting any of the output on
wavelengths that are not useful for photosynthesis. In​​theory at least, this should make red, blue or
red-blue combination LED lamps less expensive than white LED lights because additional steps have
to be taken to get an LED device to emit white light.

Two semiconductor materials are placed in contact with each other in an LED light. One
material is an n-type semiconductor, meaning it has a surplus of negative-charge-carrying particles
(namely, electrons). The other material is a p-type semiconductor that contains a surplus of
positive-charge carriers, which are referred to as “holes.”

When a voltage is applied across the material junction, electrons flow through and they fall into
the holes. As this happens, the electrons lose energy, which is then emitted as photons of light of a
specific wavelength.

This electrically stimulated emission of photons is called electroluminescence. The wavelength

of the emission can be adjusted by controlling the chemical makeup of the semiconductor materials
and by mixing the light of different colored LEDs in a single device.

LEDs are made in a few basic shapes and sizes, but ones useful for grow lighting are fairly
large (as LEDs go), packaged in a base and covered by a plastic “bulb.”​​The base supports the
mounting wires and the bulb (which is made from a type of plastic resin) provides some options in
terms of focusing or dispersing the emitted light.

LEDs are direct current (DC) devices, meaning they require some power conversion and
conditioning to operate. You can’t just take an LED and plug it in to a wall socket, but, as a practical
matter, manufacturers provide the necessary circuitry to allow them to be operated off of standard
household or industrial power sources.

Red LEDs
The red LED holds a special place in LED history. Prior to its invention in 1962, other LEDs
under research emitted light that was not visible to the human eye (such as in the infrared range). It
was Nick Holonyak, Jr. who came up with a way to synthesize a semiconductor material—gallium
arsenide phosphide—that resulted in the first useful visible light LED. Even so, red LEDs were at first
mostly a subject of scientific curiosity and research due their high cost (hundreds of dollars each) and
LEDs did not achieve an economically feasible price point for nearly another decade.

Plants like red light with wavelengths of about 640 to 675 nanometers (nm). It just happens
that LEDs with outputs in that range are readily available, and there are ​t​wo in particular that are

8
well-suited to grow light applications. These are ultra red (660 nm), which are fabricated from gallium
aluminum arsenide, and high-efficiency red (635 nm), which use gallium arsenide phosphide and
gallium phosphide.

Arsenic and arsenide—sound rather dangerous, don’t they? Yes, arsenic is a toxic material,
but in LEDs, it exists in small amounts of a stable solid form that do not represent an environmental
threat even if disposed of in a landfill. Also, you have to try pretty hard to break an LED, so even if by
some form of accident or abuse red LEDs are broken open, there is little chance of arsenic
contamination.

Blue LEDs
The blue LED proved to be much more difficult to come by than the red. The first blue LEDs
appeared in the early 1970s, but had a very low output. Commercially practical blues did not appear
until 1989. Then, in the 1990s, these lights were revolutionized in Japan with the introduction of high
power blue LEDs.

Plants absorb blue light in the range of about 400 to 450 nm. One type of LED in particular is
perfect for meeting these wavelength requirements: the ultra blue (430 nm), which consists of a
substrate made from the semiconductor materials silicon carbide and gallium nitride.

Red-Blue combination lighting

So, does it make sense to build a light fixture containing a combination of only red and blue
LEDs? You bet. An array of red and blue LEDs are available in both circular and rectangular panels
designed to be hung above plants or mounted on walls. Some include separate controls to manually
adjust the output ratio of red to blue light. There are also compact bulb-like products that can be
screwed into a standard Edison-base light fixture.

Large arrays of blue and red LEDs can take the place of high intensity discharge (HID) lamps
and fluorescent fixtures. Although the electroluminescent process itself does not generate much heat,
the electricity used to make it happen does heat up the LED bases and when a bunch of them are put
together, enough heat can be generated to require a cooling fan. Fortunately, most of the heating
occurs at the back of the fixture, so LED lights can still be placed closer to plants than HID lamps.
Smaller LED lamps can also be placed under the top of the plant canopy and directly among plants to
provide light to the lower leaves.

What might the future bring with respect to red and blue LED grow lights? Well, one intriguing
idea is to produce a lamp that varies its red/blue ratio over time under computer control. Such lamps
would be similar to ones already in production that combine both colors, except the circuits used to
control the red and blue outputs would be automatically controlled with a computer. Why would this

9
be desirable? Well, many plants regulate their flowering and fruiting cycle based on the ratio of red to
blue light.

As the summer comes to an end in nature, the relative amount of red light received on Earth
tends to increase. Many plants have evolved to use this phenomenon as a signal to shift from
vegetative growth mode into reproduction mode. So, a lamp that would automatically mimic this
gradual shift over a time could conceivably improve crop performance by exposing plants to a more
natural light environment.

With further research, it might even be found that varying the red-blue ratio throughout a
daylight period to simulate sunrise and sunset could have a beneficial effect on the performance of
some crops.

Moreover, it is possible that the use of wavelengths not directly associated with
photosynthesis—such as far red or ultraviolet—might have desirable effects on plant processes. So,
even if LEDs do not play a direct role in these aspects of plant physiology in actual agriculture
practice, it might be able to play a role in the research.

In any case, if the cost of LEDs does drop to $2/kl over the next few years, we can expect to
see a rapid and dramatic shift into LED lighting for many uses.

Credit: Philip McIntosh, Eric Hopper

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 Chapter 2

The Pros and Cons of Different Types of Grow Lights

Introduction
It can be difficult to navigate the seemingly complicated world of grow lights, especially for a
new grower. There are numerous types of lights, each with a different purpose and each with their
respective pros and cons.

In order to make an informed decision on what types of lights are best for your growing
conditions, an evaluation that includes your operating budget, the quality of the lighting system, how
long it is intended to be used for, at what stage of plant development it is required, is in order.

Let's take a look at the different types of grow lights available to indoor growers today, starting
with some info on how plants use light.

What Are Grow Lights?

In general, grow lights are any artificial source of light intended to either supplement natural
light or replace it when it’s not available in order to grow plants of any kind.

The light bulbs used in most household lamps and light fixtures are not designed to deliver the
type and amount of light required for healthy plant growth. They do a fine job helping us to see, but
we don’t require the same wavelengths of light that a plant needs.

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 Most indoor lighting that has not been manufactured specifically as a grow light is the
old-fashioned incandescent light or fluorescent.

Why Plants Won't Grow Under Regular Household Lighting

Incandescent bulbs are not particularly useful for plants as they provide light on the red side of
the spectrum, but not towards the blue side. They also tend to run too hot for plants, which can be
detrimental to their growth. They are also highly inefficient; about one-third as much as fluorescents.

Typical, household fluorescent lamps run much cooler and supply a much wider range of the
light spectrum. Even though they do produce light primarily from the orange to blue range, unless
they are designed specifically as grow lights, they do not offer plants quite enough quantity of light to
do much good.

There are indeed fluorescent grow lights. These have higher amount of light and include light
from the red end of the spectrum, but these are not the same as the bulbs used in regular fixtures.

How Lighting is Measured

In order to understand what a particular bulb offers, it is necessary to get a grasp of how light
is measured. Though not commonly used as much anymore, foot candles is one way light output is
assessed. This represents the amount of light that one traditional candle would give off from one foot
away. A typical grow light offers hundreds of foot candles of light.

Lighting may also be referred to by its color temperature. This is a measure of its appearance,
not its actual heat output. “Cool” lights offer light in the blue and yellow-green portions of the
spectrum. “Warm” lights provide light on the red end of the spectrum.

Lights may also be measured in watts, nanometers, lumens, or PAR (photosynthetically active
radiation). Watts (W) are a unit of energy measure that most people relate to with lighting. Grow lights
are often rated as to a bulb’s watts per square centimeter of illuminated surface or watts per
bandwidth, which is the amount of light emitted for any particular color of light. Simply put, one W is
equal to the flow of electrical current of one amp, at a one voltage (volt or V).

If a light output is measured in nanometers (nm), this number represents the amount of visible
light. Visible light is emitted between 400 and 700 nm. Grow lights come in a range between 450 and
730 nm. The violet end of the spectrum exists at about 400 nm and the far red end is at 730 nm.
Important measures in nm are 450, 650, and 730.

For plants to undergo photosynthesis, light at both 450 nm and 650 nm is required. This is
where a plant creates its food from available light and water and carbon dioxide from the pigment,
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chlorophyll. The 650 and 730 nm wavelengths are vital to a plant’s ability to control flowering through
the plant pigment, phytochrome (Pr).

A grow light’s bulb(s) may be express in lumens (lm), also known as “lux”, which is a measure
of how bright the bulb actually is. For you science types, a lumen is a measure of the amount of
“luminous flux” which is simply the amount of visible light that is emitted by a bulb.

Since plants require light beyond the visible spectrum, lumens are not always considered to be
the best measurement of a bulbs’ effectiveness. PAR measurements also fall into this category. PAR
measurements refer to the number of photons that a light produces; again, this is only useful to
measure visible light and may not tell the whole story when it comes to what a plant needs to grow.

Rather than getting bogged down in all of the terms though, let’s take a look at some of the
advantages and disadvantages of many common types of grow lights and consider at what stage in a
plant’s growth they may be most suitable.

T5 Fluorescent Grow Lights

Fluorescent tubes are measured by their diameter. Each “T” represents one-eighth of an inch.
A T5 tube is five-eighths of an inch in diameter, a T8 would be one inch in diameter, and so on. T5s
are best used during the propagation stage of plants, since they run cool.

Pros of T5 Fluorescent Grow Lights

● Generally less expensive than other types of grow lights.

● They emit light that covers a larger area than most other types of grow lights.
● They typically have a much longer, useful life that other kinds of grow lights.

Cons of T5 Fluorescent Grow Lights

● Are not useful during the vegetative stages of growth.

● Are not useful during the flowering stages.

High Intensity Discharge Grow Lights

High intensity discharge lights, or HIDs, are large-bulbed systems that create light by igniting a
gas inside the bulb. HIDs are available in two types: Metal halides (MH) and high pressure sodium
(HPS). There is a third type, which is a hybrid between the two, as well. All types of HIDs work by

13
arcing an electric current between two tungsten (W) electrodes which then ignites the gas in each
particular bulb.

Metal halide lamps burn gas that produces lighting on the blue end of the spectrum which is
beneficial during the vegetative phase of a plant’s development. High pressure sodium lamps
produce light on the red to orange portion of the spectrum and are useful during the flowering stage of
a plant’s cycle.

All HID systems include the bulb, a ballast, and a reflective hood of some sort to increase the
amount of light available to the plants. An HID ballast can be traditional, magnetic​​ballast​that uses
coils and condensers to regulate the​​output, or digital ballasts are also available that use circuitry to
regulate the lamp’s outputs.

Pros of HID Grow Lights

● HID bulbs are often dimmable, which can be useful to customize the amount of needed light
for a given area.
● If using a digital ballast, all types of HID bulbs can be used without changing the ballast.
● HID lights produce more usable light than fluorescent bulbs.

Cons of HID Grow Lights

● HID bulbs produce high amounts of heat that can burn plants if not monitored or taken into
consideration when placing them into a grow room.
● They require additional hardware to operate, such as a ballast and a reflector. Some HID
ballast will only operate MH and some will only operate HPS, meaning multiple ballasts may be
required.
● The effectiveness of each bulb diminishes over time, meaning that it is important to note how
long a particular bulb has been in use and change it before it ceases its usefulness.

Double-ended Lighting
Double-ended (DE) lighting is a type of HID grow light that has come onto the market fairly
recently. It is a type of HPS that instead of screwing into a single “port” in a ballast, is a tube and
connects at two ends of a ballast, much like a fluorescent tube. The pros and cons relative to the
double-ending lighting option are as compared to the traditional single-ended (SE) HPS lamp, unless
otherwise indicated.

Pros of DE Lighting in Grow Rooms

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● Double-ended lighting lasts longer than single-ended. It also remains more efficiency longer. A
10,000-hour SE bulb may have lost a significant amount of its usefulness upon reaching that
milestone, but a DE one may still be as much as 90% efficient after attaining the same age.
● DE lighting tubes are thinner than SE bulbs. The advantage to this is that more light is able to
reach the plants than with single-ended bulbs placed at the same height.

Cons of DE Lighting in Grow Rooms

● Double-ended lighting produces more heat than single-ended lighting, which can lead to
foliage burn.
● Double-ended lighting cannot take air blowing directly onto it such as from circulation fans or
HAF fans. Contact with air effects the nitrogen inside the bulb and lowers the bulb’s efficiency.

Light Emitting Ceramics (LEC) or Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

Light emitting ceramics (LEC) and ceramic metal halide (CMH) lights both also refer to types of
single-ended HID lights. They (LEC and CMH) are also essentially used interchangeably with one
another as they are the same type of bulb.

An LEC (or CMH if you prefer) light operates in much the same way as its metal halide cousin,
but instead has a ceramic arc (like HPS bulbs) instead of a quartz one. Just as in the section above
on DE lighting, the pros and cons listed below are as compared to other HID lights.

Pros of CMH Grow Lights

● LECs last on average twice as long as MH or HPS bulbs.

● LECs, because of the ceramic element, burn much hotter than MH, producing a light
closer to that of natural sunlight. Due to their insulating value though, they also have a lower
heat output, which means there is less likelihood of burning plant leaves as compared to MH or
HPS bulbs.
● LECs can produce light spectrum sufficient to support both the vegetative stage of plant
growth as well as its flowering stage.

Cons of CMH Grow Lights

● Only magnetic ballasts can be used for LEC bulbs and they cannot be placed on an
angle; only straight up and down or horizontal.
● Cost. Being a newer technology, these are still fairly pricey.
● There is a danger to growers due to the amount of UV light produced by LECs. Growers
are advised to wear long-sleeved shirts and sunglasses if they are going to be working under
any LEC lighting.

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LED Grow Lights
Light emitting diode (LED) grow lights are also relatively new in the world of artificial lighting,
but are being widely used. The benefits to using LEDs are numerous, but the major obstacle to
switching over to them is the high initial cost.

As LEDs continue to become a major player in the world of grow lights, it is likely that their
costs may continue to drop into a range that is more affordable to most home growers.

Pros of LED Grow Lights

● LEDs are energy efficient and are among the cheapest sources of artificial light to
operate. They produce more light per watt than either fluorescents or HIDs. However, there are
exceptions to this.
● LEDs run at cooler temperatures. Besides the energy savings, this means that the
chance of burning your plants if considerably less than with some other types of grow lights.
They are also among the longest-lasting of artificial lightingoptions.
● They are usually able to be directly plugged into to standard electrical outlets; some
types can also be used in traditional light fixtures as well (no ballasts required for LEDs).
● The range of color spectra available is wide and can be customizable and adjustable
depending on crop being grown and what stage of development.
● There are many manufacturers producing LED lighting with a wide range of features
and benefits.
● LEDs are generally considered to be the easiest grow lights to use.

Cons of LED Grow Lights

● Cost can be prohibitory when it comes to opting for LEDS. They are many times more
expensive than other grow light options.
● Some LEDs, in an effort to reduce consumer cost, emit less light than other types of
grow lights. You can avoid this if the LED light selected is at least 2.0 micromoles per watt of
energy.
● Depending on manufacturer, LEDs are not always strong enough for the flowering
phase. This drawback may become obsolete as technology improves, and even now some
LED systems do produce enough light, but be sure to do your homework when selecting the
right LED for your particular crop.
● Reflectors may be needed to realize the full benefit of your LED lights. This may not be
a true “con”, but unlike with HIDs, where it is expected, most LED systems are sold with the
contention that no other items are required.

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Sulphur Plasma
Sulphur plasma lights are a type of light emitting plasma (LEP). These bulbs work by burning
gas at extremely high temperatures in effect mimicking the sun. This technology is still relatively new
and testing is underway.

Most information is still only available from manufacturers and as such has not been reviewed
by a third party for accuracy. Here is what we do know though:

Pros of Sulphur Plasma Grow Room Lights

● LEPs produce a spectrum of light similar to the sun and may have the potential to be
the type of artificial light that most closely resembles natural light.
● These are potentially the best option for grow rooms with high ceilings or for situations
where a grow light cannot be placed close to the crop, where another type of grow light may be
more effective.
● LEP bulbs are extremely long-lived. Manufacturers claim useful lives of three to four
times that of other traditional grow light types.

Cons of Sulphur Plasma Grow Room Lights

● Because plasma lights burn so hot, they cannot be placed near crops. If a grow room is
in a confined space or tent, these are not the lights to consider using at least as the technology
currently exists.
● These are very expensive and unless you are a professional grower, they are probably
cost-prohibitive as of the publication of this information.
● Some fixtures are large and bulky and require substantial support systems to mount
them.

Induction Lighting
Induction grow lights are essentially a high-wattage compact fluorescent (CFL). They work by
igniting a gas from energy produced magnetically; there are no igniters in an induction lighting
system. All of this process occurs in a sealed tube. They are the longest-lived bulbs of any grow lights
discussed here because their energy creates more light than heat. Some induction lights are claimed
to still be useful up to 100,000 hours.

Pros of Induction Lighting

● Induction lighting is about twice as efficient as other fluorescent lighting.

● Bulbs can be used for many years of continued use before losing meaningful
effectiveness.

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 ● Unlike some other grow lights, induction lights illuminate instantly; there is no warm-up
period as with many other types.
● Induction lights burn cool, so they can be placed closer to crops and don’t require as
much in the way of ventilation.

Cons of Induction Lighting

● Just like with several of the other newer grow light technologies, the cost of induction
lighting is quite high. At current prices, it would take many years of continued use to pay for
themselves in energy savings
● They are not as efficient as LEDs or HPS.
● Induction lights are noisy. They not only produce sound when operating, but they have
the potential to interfere with Wi-Fi and cellular phones.

A Final Word on Grow Lights

Not all grow lights are created equally. There is no “perfect” grow light. In order to select the
most appropriate grow light system, know what you want out of your plants, understand what they
need, and attempt to create a system that does as much of both of these as your budget and set-up
will allow.

Credit: Christopher Sloper

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 Chapter 3

10 Things You Must Look For When Choosing LED Grow Lights

Introduction
LED lights are revolutionizing the way we grow plants, enabling both professionals and
enthusiasts to achieve optimal environment efficiency with minimal effort. The advantages are
numerous, with just a few of the main ones mentioned below:

● Stimulated growth
● Adjustable wavelength
● Energy efficiency
● Compactness
● Durability

LED grow lights bring definite benefits, but choosing the right product usually proves to be
quite challenging. The wide array of models available on the market, confusing statements from
manufacturers and misleading product descriptions are some of the main reasons behind this.

Starting off with the wrong set of lights can be detrimental to your growing efforts, so making
an educated purchase is a must. There are many factors and properties that need to be considered,
but you should also be aware of your growing purposes, location, and other specifics involved.
Following is a list of the most important things you should look for when making your choice. If you
need more information on how to maximize your crops you can always look into solution providers.

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1.Quality Build & Materials
Durability is one of the best things about LED lighting. If a lamp is built using quality materials,
it can last for about 10 years. This is a long time during which you won't have to worry about making
any changes to your set-up.

It's best to look for US made lights that abide by the highest industry standards, using only the
best components and production methods.

2. Brand Reputation
There are many different brands on the market and each one provides slightly different
products. This makes the choice all the more difficult, considering that not all options are of equal
quality.

In case you're wondering between different light choices where price and appearance are
almost equal, taking a look at the brand can provide the answer. As in other fields, a company with
good reputation, long history and extensive research and development efforts is more likely to have a
good product.

3. Electricity Output & Consumption

Your LED grow lights will have to operate for at least 10-11 hours each day, which in turn will
lead to increased electricity bills.

Making an informed choice and reading the detailed product description can save you troubles
in the future, therefore you should always check how many units is the total output. The options go up
to 1,000W but you shouldn't settle for anything less than 300W. Have in mind that the higher output
helps compensate for any wattage loss.

4. Low Heat Output

This is one of the most important things when choosing LED lights, as it contributes to two
main factors – plant protection and durability.

The lights are in constant proximity to the plants and having low heat output guarantees that
there won't be any damage but also enables for a smaller distance between the lamp and the plant.

Also, a light with higher heat output would burn out more quickly and will need to be replaced
sooner. Well balanced low heat output LED lamps let off less energy as heat and have aluminum
heat sinks attached.

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5. Quality Semiconductor Chip
The semiconductor chip is the LED light`s core and serves the purpose of converting electricity
to light, but also has a part in determining the wavelength. It is advisable that you look for a light that
has a chip of at least 3 watts, otherwise it won't be able to provide sufficient illumination.

6. Consider What You Are Growing

The lighting you choose must be suitable for the type of plants you're growing. All LED lights
will do the job to some extent, but certain models are made to address specific plant needs, as plants
needs different kinds of wavelengths during each growth stage.

For example, if you are growing heavy crops like tomatoes, you will need a different light to
maximize its growth than if you were growing flowers. Also, do you need lights only for vegetative
cycles, flowering or is it a complete growing process?

7. Plant Growing Space

Space availability is a vital factor when purchasing lighting as it determines the amount and
size of lamps you need.

The first thing you need to do is measure the exact size of your garden. Then you need to find
out the lighting area size of the lamps you're considering in order to determine the exact number you
need.

The general guideline most growers use is that you need 32 watts of actual power per square
foot if you're growing high-light plants like tomatoes. Low-light plants like lettuce need somewhere
between 11 and 18 watts per square foot.

8. Full Spectrum LED Lights

Although plants can grow under almost any type of light, efficient photosynthesis requires
different wavelengths and some of the best led grow lights can provide plants with the full spectrum
necessary throughout each growth.

For example, in order to grow most efficiently, many plants need light in the red and blue
spectrum, but also infrared and ultraviolet, depending on the stage. A powerful full spectrum LED
grow light enables you to cater to the plant's specific needs by providing the proper photosynthetically
active radiation values.

9. Easiness of Use and Flexibility

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 Sometimes you'll have to adjust the position of your lamps, based on the plant type and growth
stage. Quality LED lamps are efficient, but also easy to use and will let you fine tune their placement
with little effort.

Also, it is important that the wavelength and light intensity are adjustable as well. Look for
products that are easy to maintain and ready to use straight out of the packaging.

10. Warranty and Return Policy

LED lights should last about 10 years under normal usage, so you should be wary of
warranties that cover less than that. It is usually a sign of bad quality and cheap materials.

Most manufacturers also provide a guarantee on the parts of the light, including a free return
shipment policy. Some parts of LED lights function independently, so if you're waiting for a spare to
arrive your light can still do its job.

Credit: VividGro

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 Chapter 4

LED Grow Lights: Footprints and Planning

Introduction
The artificial light source is the main energy driving plant growth within an indoor garden.
Although every indoor garden is different, they all have one thing in common: there is a limited
amount of light energy.

Some larger indoor gardens may have tens of thousands of watts of artificial light, while
smaller gardens may only have a couple hundred watts. Regardless of the amount of light energy that
is found in the garden, a grower should do their best to efficiently use that light energy.

After all, the more efficiently a grower uses artificial light, the more productive the garden will
be. When discussing efficient lighting systems and set-ups for an indoor garden, it only makes sense
to discuss horticultural LEDs.

LEDs for Heightened Efficiency in the Grow Room

Since the inception of LEDs as a horticultural light source, growers have been tempted by
promises of heightened efficiency and better return on investment. Although not all LED lighting
systems are equal, they do, in general, offer some major benefits to indoor horticulturists.

LEDs are comprised of individual diodes (solid state devices that actually emit light). These
individual diodes can produce specific light wavelengths. In other words, each diode can produce a
specific color in the light spectrum. This opens up a world of customizable spectral outputs for

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horticultural lighting systems. The ability to customize LED lighting fixtures is probably the largest
advantage for indoor horticulturists.

Our knowledge of plant physiology has shown us that plants have a heightened photosynthetic
response to particular light wavelengths. LED lighting systems are capable of producing exclusively,
or a higher amount of these particular wavelengths, which means the light energy is more useable for
the plants.

This in itself increases the efficiency of LED lighting compared with other horticultural light
sources. Another major efficiency factor associated with LEDs is temperature. In general, LED
lighting systems produce less heat than HID or fluorescent lighting systems. For most indoor
horticulturists, heat is unwanted and many counter-measures, such as air conditioners or fans, are
implemented to remove the excess heat.

Since LEDs naturally produce less heat, they automatically require less cooling equipment and
this reduces the overall operational costs of the garden.

Diminishing Light Energy and LEDs

Regardless of the type of lighting technology, the inverse square law still applies. In other
words, even when using an LED fixture, the light energy will diminish exponentially from its source.
Put another way, the farther away the plant canopy is from the light source, the less light energy that
will be available.

On the other hand, if the plant canopy is placed too close to the light source, an
over-saturation or burning effect can occur. Indoor horticulturists should do their best to place the
plants as close to the light source as possible, without causing damage to the plants. Some
horticulturists refer to this spot as the “sweet spot” for lighting.

The sweet spot is the spot where light energy is maximized without causing stress to the
plants. Horticultural LEDs, like any other artificial light source, will have a sweet spot where the
available light energy for the plants is the greatest. For most LED lighting systems, this sweet spot
lies two to three feet under the light source.

Setting up LED Lighting Systems for Maximum Light Efficiency for Plants
After choosing an LED lighting system, a grower should take time to consider how to make the
most efficient use of the lighting system. One drawback of horticultural LEDs is that there is such a
vast difference between each system. However, when it comes to placement in the garden, the two
biggest factors affecting the set-up of an LED lighting system are total wattage and lens type.

Wattage for LEDs

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 Although LEDs’ unique ability to produce higher amounts of PAR (photosynthetically active
radiation) per watt of energy consumed makes comparing LEDs’ wattages to other lighting
technologies’ wattages difficult, a grower can still use the wattage of an LED system to help
determine the proper placement and spacing between LED lighting fixtures.

For example, a series of 400W LED fixtures would be positioned closer together than a series
of 1,000W LED fixtures (assuming other factors that make up the LED system are similar). Generally
speaking, the higher the wattage, the farther fixtures will be positioned from each other.

A higher wattage LED system also generally equates to a larger light foot print. A very general
rule of thumb is to have 30-40 watts of LED per square foot of garden space. In other words, a 400W
LED can cover a 10-15 square foot area. Nothing perturbs LED manufacturers more than making
light coverage recommendations based on wattage.

However, the recommendations for light coverage differ so greatly from manufacturer to
manufacturer that home hobbyists have no other choice but to use wattage as a base of
measurement and make their own determinations by experimentation.

When comparing wattages from various LED lighting systems, make sure to look at the actual
wattage consumption and not the amount of wattage the manufacturer claims the fixture will replace.

Secondary Optics

Horticultural LEDs are equipped with primary lenses on each diode. However, some
manufacturers will add a secondary optic to help focus the light into either a wider or narrower beam.

Secondary optics never increase the amount of light being emitted, but can concentrate that
light into a more direct focal point or diffuse the light into a wider coverage area. Most horticultural
LED manufacturers use secondary optics as a way to focus the light into a more intense beam.

When the light is focused and the intensity is increased in one area, light diffusion is lost and
the total coverage area is decreased. Although not always the case, manufacturers that utilize lower
wattage diodes (1-3W) in their lighting systems tend to gravitate toward secondary lenses; whereas
manufacturers that utilize 5W diodes or higher rarely use secondary optics.

Light Planning for LEDs

Successful grow lighting starts with a carefully considered lighting plan that is tailor-made to
suit your specific project. A lighting plan calculates the best possible coordination of fixtures,
reflectors, patterns and distances between lights and crop. This requires a thorough analysis of
various factors, such as the desired light level, the light distribution, the most effective lighting height,
the greenhouse structure, irrigation, screening, and heating.

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 Most reputable lighting manufacturers offer light planning as a value-added service, and it is
recommended growers take advantage of a manufacturer’s expertise rather than wasting valuable
time, effort, and productivity trying to figure out the complexities by themselves.

Understanding how a lighting plan works is key to getting the most efficient lighting set-up
possible. By properly spacing LED lighting systems, a horticulturist can combine the light energy of
two fixtures and expand the area of usable light. The overlapping light combines the energy emitted
from each fixture.

By itself, the diminished light would be inadequate to produce proper growth, but when
combined, there is enough light energy to sustain healthy growth rates. It is important to note here
that light uniformity​—uniform light distribution across the top surface of the crop—is equally as
important as light intensity.

The way a horticulturist sets up their lights will depend on the wattage of the LED light fixture,
its distance from the plant canopy, and the type of optics the unit uses. A general rule of thumb is to
observe the LED lighting system’s footprint (area of light that is projected from the LED fixture onto
the plant canopy) and then, at the edge of those footprints, combine the footprints of multiple
reflectors.

With most LED lighting systems, an overlap of a couple feet is more than enough to create a
proper cross-pattern. Some fast-growing plants, such as tomatoes or peppers, require higher
amounts of light energy and will require a more intense cross-pattern. For these types of plants, the
LED fixtures should be spaced closer together.

With taller plants, light needs to be directed deeper into the canopy, which is another key
reason a more focused field of illumination makes sense. Other plants that require less light, such as
lettuce or culinary herbs like sage, parsley, thyme, etc., will perform just fine with less aggressive
cross-patterns.

One of the biggest differences between cross-patterns for LEDs verses cross-patterns for HIDs
is that LEDs do not use the same type of reflectors as an HID system. The reflector of an HID system
is the main determining factor of the lighting system’s footprint.

Although some LED systems have a reflector built in to the system, the primary and secondary
lenses are mainly responsible for an LED system’s footprint. This is why it is so important for growers
to closely examine the specifications of an LED lighting system before purchasing.

Comparing horticultural LEDs to one another is a lot like comparing apples to oranges. They
are similar in some ways, but so different in other ways. Regardless of the lighting technology being
used, some of the main principles, such as the inverse square law and how light energy combines in

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cross-patterns, still apply. The same benefits growers have received from utilizing cross-patterns of
HID lighting systems are also applicable to LED lighting systems.

As with many aspects of indoor horticulture, experimenting with light placement and positioning
is a key to unlocking a garden’s full potential, but taking advantage of a value-added lighting plan
from a manufacturer will save time and maximize efficiency.

Horticulturists with multiple LED lighting systems who use cross-patterns for maximizing their
light energy will be rewarded with better yields and a higher return on investment.

Credit: Eric Hopper

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 Chapter 5

Learn Your LEDs: Lighting Metrics for Growers

Introduction
The metrics used to quantify horticulture lighting can be confusing at times. If you have been
researching horticulture lighting systems, you have likely been bombarded with a variety of metrics
that manufacturers use to market their products.

Some terms and acronyms you are likely to see include watts, lumens, LUX, foot candles,
PAR, PPF, and PPFD. While all of these terms are related to lighting, only a select few really tell you
the important metrics of a horticulture lighting system.

If you are looking to optimize your growing conditions or researching what lighting system is
best for your operation, a firm grasp on the nuances of lighting metrics is the foundation to cultivation
and financial success.
Horticulture LED lighting technology is still in its infancy and there is an abundance of
misinformation, unlike other industries that have established clearly defined metrics to assess the
performance of a solution.

Take, for example, the automotive industry. We all have a general understanding of
horsepower, miles-per-gallon, and even torque. These are all critical metrics used to determine
whether a vehicle can perform a specific application (i.e. towing a trailer or racing in a quarter-mile)
and to evaluate options when looking to purchase a vehicle.

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 Metrics in LED horticulture lighting should provide the same type of insight; they should
accurately and consistently answer the questions, “Can this light perform the function needed, and,
more specifically, is it optimized?”

While there is currently a lack of industry standards for LED lighting in horticulture—and some
manufacturers take advantage of this by misreporting or inflating performance claims—many lighting
companies in the industry are encouraging the implementation of formal industry standards to ensure
performance claims can be verified. Lighting technologies like high-pressure sodium and metal halide
have had these standards in place for years.

Still, the start to standardizing the answers to these LED performance questions is with a firm
grasp on the metrics by which horticulture lighting is measured. While other measurements like the
daily light integral are important, for the purpose of this article we will focus on photosynthetically
active radiation and photosynthetic photon flux.

It should also be mentioned that growers should not use a foot candle/LUX sensor when taking
light measurements, since these follow the sensitivity curve of the human eye and give wrong
information when comparing light sources with different spectrums. Instead, a quantum sensor, which
is designed to follow the sensitivity curve of plants and measures the number of photons between 400
and 700 nanometers (nm), should be used.

Photosynthetically Active Radiation

Let’s start with photosynthetically active radiation (PAR). It’s s a much used, and often
misused, term related to horticulture lighting. PAR is the spectrum of light (specifically 400-700 nm,
which are the primary wavelengths of light used to drive photosynthesis). Knowing the spectrum of a
lighting system is extremely important and can easily be achieved by requesting a spectral power
distribution chart from a lighting manufacturer.

Spectral distribution will have significant implications on the growth and development of plants,
along with the overall energy efficiency of a lighting system. However, the amount of PAR delivered to
a crop is an equally (if not more) important metric to focus on. Photosynthetic photon flux (PPF) and
photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) are two metrics used to measure the amount of PAR.

Photosynthetic Photon Flux

This measures the total amount of PAR that is produced by a lighting system each second.
This measurement is best taken using a specialized instrument called an integrating sphere, which

29
captures and measures essentially all photons emitted by a lighting system. The unit used to express
PPF is micromoles per second (μmol/s).

Photosynthetic photon flux is a very important metric if you want to be able to calculate how
efficient a light is at converting electrical energy into photons of PAR. If the PPF of the light is known
along with the input wattage, you can calculate how efficient a horticulture lighting system is at
converting electrical energy into PAR.

However, it is important to note that PPF does not tell you how much of the measured light
actually arrives to the plant canopy. While it’s nice to know the PPF of a lighting system, PPF alone is
often useless information to a grower.

Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density

This measures the amount of PAR that actually arrives at the plant, or, as a scientist might
say, “the number of photosynthetically active photons that fall on a given surface each second.”
PPFD is a ‘spot’ measurement of a specific location on your plant canopy, and it is measured in
micromoles per square meter per second (μmol/m​2​/s).

If you want to find out the true light intensity of a fixture over a designated growing area, it is
important that the average of several PPFD measurements at a defined height (typically, the top of
your crop canopy) are taken. Lighting companies that only publish the center point PPFD directly
below their lighting fixture grossly overestimate the true light intensity of a fixture.

A single measurement does not tell you much, since horticulture lights are generally brightest
in the center, with light levels decreasing as measurements are taken towards the edges of a
coverage area. It is easy for lighting manufacturers to manipulate PPFD data if buyers are not
educated on the proper way to measure PPFD.

To ensure you are getting accurate PPFD values over a defined growing area, the following
needs to be published by the manufacturer: the maximum, minimum, and average measurement;
measurement distance from light source (vertical and horizontal); number and location of
measurements; and the min/max ratio if only an average PPFD is provided.
“PPF” is commonly used to describe PPFD by academics in peer-reviewed journals, and debate
continues among plant scientist and engineers on which usage of the term is correct. One way to
avoid ambiguity when reading a journal article or product brochure is to focus on the unit of
measurement.

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 If the unit includes m​2​, then the unit is referring to the light intensity at the surface of a plant
canopy (PPFD). If m​2 ​is not included, then the unit is referring to the total PAR emitted from a light
source (PPF). Understanding the correct metrics to use will not only allow you to make better
purchasing decisions of horticulture lighting systems, but will ultimately make you a better grower.

Credit: Josh Gerovac

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 Chapter 6

Overcoming Sticker Shock: The Return on Investment of LED Grow Lights

Introduction
Way too often people shrug off LED grow lights when they see the initial price tag. The sticker
shock is real, but what is the whole financial picture regarding LED grow lights?

The results of this quick return on investment conversation might change the minds of some
skeptics. Read on, as you will discover the payback period might be shorter than you think.

Initial Costs of LED Grow Lights

There is no question that LED grow lights are initially considerably more expensive than the
traditional high-intensity discharge lighting set-ups. The cost can be greater than four times the initial
cost of the current technology.

As of the writing of this chapter, a 1,000-W high pressure sodium light costs between $400 and
$700, depending on features and quality.

Compare this to an LED grow light that can cover the same area and produce similar results at
around $1,700 and $2,400.

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 So, how do we overcome this initial expense? There are many LED ROI calculators available
online—use one or two of them. There is no need to take my word for it as you can punch in your own
numbers.

Electrical Savings of LED Grow Lights

By far the most watts used in your indoor garden are spent on lighting. After all, we are
replacing the big bulb in the sky with an artificial source. This is where LED grow lights really shine,
so to speak.

On average, LED grow lights use about half the watts of their HID counterparts. This is the
largest contributor to the payback of the up-front expense.

The second most power hungry element of your growroom is environmental control. For lots of
us this means using an air conditioner.

To simplify, since heat is a complex topic, we’ll stick with the assumption that LEDs use half
the watts of HID lights, therefore they produce half the heat. Half the heat means half the electric
cooling bill.

Maintenance Savings of LED Grow Lights

Another contributor to the payback of the high initial cost is no re-lamping costs. Because
LEDs have a long useful life—greater than 10 years running on 12/12 light cycle—you won’t have to
constantly replace lamps.

Depending on your strategy, lamps for HID lighting systems get changed somewhere between
twice a year to once every two years.

High-quality high pressure sodium and metal halide lamps are expensive, so don’t forget to
capture these costs in your analysis. You should consider the time it takes to re-lamp as well.

Even if you don’t pay someone to re-lamp for you, it’s still your time—what’s it worth? For one
lamp it’s probably not that big of a deal (right up until you drop the lamp and make a huge mess!), but
for larger gardens this process could be time consuming.

New Versus Replacement

One more factor to consider in your ROI calculations is whether this is a net new purchase or
replacing an existing light system. If it’s a new light, you should consider subtracting the cost of the
alternative HPS/MH from the initial purchase price of the LED grow light.

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 After all, you would be spending this money anyway to light up the garden, so the real
purchase decision is made on the uptick between the two.

Final Thoughts
So, are LED grow lights expensive? The simple answer is no. Your individual time to pay back
is directly related to your electrical and re-lamp costs.

In Southern California with electrical rates as much as $0.36 per kWh, the payback is under a year in
most situations. For those of you lucky to have power around the $0.10 per kWh mark, it might take
up to three years to see the return on investment.

Credit: Christopher Sloper

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 Chapter 7

The Effects of LEDs on Plants

Introduction
The role grow lights play in an indoor garden is an important one, one that horticultural
researchers are constantly considering and improving. It all has to do with the photosynthesis
process, during which plants use water, carbon dioxide and light as the source of energy to produce
glucose and oxygen.

In the past, greenhouse growers used either natural sunlight, high pressure sodium (HPS) or
fluorescent lamps to illuminate their crops, but there were certain disadvantages to using these light
sources.

For example, natural sunlight is only available during the daytime; and HPS lights consume a
lot of energy and run at high temperatures, which prevents them from being placed close to plants.
Several types of grow lights also contain mercury, which can be problematic upon disposal.

The development of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) in the last few decades has introduced
growers to a new source of lighting that provides many superior advantages.

First of all, plants need wavelengths in the visible region (400-700 nm) in varying proportions.
Photosynthetic photon flux (PPF) designates the intensity of visible spectral radiation, which plants
use in the photosynthesis process.

35
 Plants use more red and blue light for photosynthesis than they do green, and the absorption
spectrum of plants can effectively be matched by using the right combination of LEDs.

LEDs as an illumination source in an indoor garden are much more suitable than other grow
lights whose peak emissions widely differ from the absorption spectrum of plants.

LEDs allow growers to pick the spectrums of light they want, rather than relying on whatever
colors the phosphors happen to make, or what color sodium glows at when it gets really warm.

Some wavelengths of interest for growers using LEDs, within the 400-700 nm range,
applicable to plants growth, are:

● 439 nm is the blue absorption peak of chlorophyll a.

● 450-460 nm is the royal blue that is absorbed by one of the peaks in beta-carotene. It is
a readily available LED wavelength commonly used to excite the remote-phosphor in white
LED lamps.
● 469 nm is the blue absorption peak of chlorophyll b.
● 430-470 nm is a range that is important for the absorption of chlorophyll a and b, which
is key for vegetative growth.
● 480-485 nm is the second absorption peak of beta-carotene.
● 525 nm (green light) is a phototropic activator that researchers are still trying to find the
chromophore of. Green light isn’t important for photosynthesis, but it is apparent that plants are
gaining direction and environmental signals from it, and that it affects internodal spacing. This
is also the wavelength of GaN or InGaN green LEDs commonly used in RGB and tunable
applications.
● 590 nm is key for carotenoid absorption. Carotenoids are starch-storing, structural and
nutritional compounds.
● 590 nm is additionally the phycoerythrin absorption wavelength. Phycoerythrin is a red
protein-pigment complex from the light-harvesting phycobiliprotein family, present in red algae
and cryptophytes, and is an accessory pigment to the main chlorophyll pigments responsible
for photosynthesis.
● 625 nm is the phycocyanin absorption peak. Phycocyanin is a pigment-protein complex
from the light-harvesting phycobiliprotein family, along with allophycocyanin and phycoerythrin.
It is also an accessory pigment to chlorophyll.
● 642-645 nm is the peak absorption point of chlorophyll b.
● 660 nm is often called the super-red LED wavelength and is important for flowering.
● 666-667 nm is the peak red absorption point for chlorophyll a.
● 730 nm, often referred to as far-red, is important for phytochrome recycling. It is needed
for all kinds of morphogenic (shape-forming) processes.
● A few minutes of 730 nm light treatment after the full light cycle is over will revert the
phytochrome chromophore from activated to inactive. This resets the chemistry for another

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 lights-on cycle and may be useful in shortening the classic dark side of the photoperiod. This
color is important to plants but is not considered in PPF as it is outside of the 400-700nm PPF
range.

LEDs provide growers the unique opportunity to use a light spectrum that can be tailored to
provide maximum benefit to the plants and minimize wasted energy. Several LEDs at different
wavelengths can be combined to provide an ideal illumination source that follows the plant-sensitivity
curve. Aside from this, there are several other advantages of using LEDs in horticulture, including:

● Geometry:​ Since radiation falling on a plant is inversely proportional to the square

distance between the source of radiation and the plant, it is advantageous to bring plants
closer to the light source. LED lights can be placed closer to plants than is possible with other
lamps because LEDs run cooler than other lights that produce a lot of heat and will burn leaves
at close distances.
● Efficiency:​ The electrical efficiency of LEDs is much higher than other grow lights, which
helps growers save on their electrical bills.
● Durability:​ The lifetime of an LED is defined as how long it takes for it to drop to 70% of
its original value. This is about 50,000 hours—much longer than the typical lifespan of
fluorescent or HPS lights.
● Spectral quality:​ Spectral quality of a carefully chosen LED illumination source can have
dramatic effects on plant anatomy, morphology and pathogen development.
● Small size:​ The small, compact size of today’s LED fixtures allows more options for
installing the light source, and more space for plants to grow.

Several researchers have experimented with using different intensities and wavelengths to
grow different crops. It is important to understand that different crops may behave differently under
different illumination levels, and different light recipes may be needed for each crop, but overall, an
increased PPFD causes an increase in plant growth.

Although red light is sufficient for plant growth, blue light is important for increased leaf
thickness and number of chloroplasts. For example, rice plants grown under a combination of blue
and red LEDs showed higher photosynthetic rates than those grown under red illumination alone.

It’s also worth noting that although a combination of red and blue LEDs is useful for better crop
growth, the presence of both these colors in a growroom makes it difficult to observe plants visually
and check for disease symptoms.

The addition of a few single green light bulbs, although not as essential for plant growth as
blue or red as mentioned earlier, makes it easier to visually assess the plants for damages.

Along with the benefits of growing with LEDs, another important issue for researchers is the
development of metrics for quantifying PPFD and light absorption by crops.

37
 Growers need to calibrate their LED light sources and find the optimal light recipe as far as flux
efficacy, appropriate wavelengths for different crops and optimal geometry of illumination is
concerned.

There are affordable spectrometers and PAR meters that can be used to measure light output
and intensity.

Smartphone apps that are used in conjunction with a phone’s camera are also being
developed that will help give growers a rough idea of how intense their lights are. The PPFD
measurement is simply done by pointing the device at the light source and pressing a button.

Some spectrometers are also being designed to work in conjunction with smartphones to
provide even more accurate readings. The software behind these apps also records data on a
day-to-day basis, and monitors the growth of the plants.

The resulting plant journals, or logs, will help growers closely monitor what’s going on in their
growroom, and what the best course of action should be if things go sideways or otherwise require
attention.

Credit: Maximum Yield

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 Chapter 8

LEDs: Pros and Cons

Introduction
There is no perfect grow light…period. Even the “big bulb in the sky” has its limitations—clouds
happen. Every grow light has its strengths and weaknesses and this holds true for LED grow lights.
Here’s a quick run-down on the pros and cons of LED grow lights.

What’s are the PROs for Using LED Grow Lights?

Less Electricity

The No. 1 reason gardeners consider LED grow lights is the promise of a major reduction in
electricity used. The latest LED grow lights typically provide a 40 to 50% reduction in lighting Watts
consumed to illuminate an area when compared to other garden lighting sources.

Less Heat

By definition, one Watt of electricity produces 3.41 Btu of heat when consumed by any
light-emitting source. LED, high-pressure sodium, metal-halide, florescent, induction and plasma
lights all abide by this principle.

The basic reason LED lights produce less heat is less Watts are being consumed. Also, LEDs
do not instantly convert more than half of the watts consumed into infrared heat, as their HPS/MH
counterparts do.

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Less Air Conditioning

Air conditioners might not be needed or can be run considerably less since there is less heat,
saving growers money both in the operating costs of the air conditioner and maybe even the cost of
buying the unit in the first place.

Using smaller exhaust and intake fans produce further savings. Smaller fans use less
electricity and need smaller filters. Smaller filters cost less than larger ones. Many gardeners are
forced to shut down for the summer due to external heat issues.

With lower heat output, LED-based gardens may be able to continue through the summer,
keeping a garden’s revenue stream going year round.

Easy Set-up

LED grow lights are simple to install: just hang them up and plug them in. Hanging a bulky
HPS/MH reflector, mounting a ballast somewhere nearby and installing a lamp is considerably more
difficult than putting up an LED grow light. Additionally, you don’t need to remove the waste heat
generated from the ballast when growing with LEDs.

No Lamp Changes

LED emitters typically have a 50,000-hour useful life. Once hung up, an LED grow light can be
operated for more than 11 years on a 12/12 schedule with zero maintenance. During this entire
period there are no lamp changes, which means no lamps to buy, drop, be burned by or dispose of as
toxic waste. LEDs are the ultimate hang-and-forget lighting technology.

Even More Savings

Reflective wall coverings are popular in HPS/MH gardens—since HPS/MH lamps emit photons
in every direction, many different types of wall coverings have been created to reduce hot spots and
reflect all that light bouncing around back into the garden. These wall coverings are unnecessary in
the LED gardens due to the highly directional design of LED grow lights.

Because HPS/MH gardens produce so much wasted heat, they often feature secondary fans
that turn on at one temperature and off at another based on temperature readings from an on-board
or separate controller.

Due to the lessened thermal load of LEDs, it might be possible to skip secondary fans. Also
not needed are fans to air-cool lighting reflectors.

Reducing the number of ventilation fans not only saves the cost of the fans and controllers, but
also the electricity to run them. In addition, the garden will be much quieter and require less space.

Double-Stack Potential

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 Because LED grow lights are considerably thinner and can be hung closer to the garden’s
canopy, it may be possible to double-stack your garden. Assuming you have enough ceiling
height—generally a minimum of 10 ft.—you might be able to double your growing space. Some major
pharmaceutical companies are using LEDs in large, indoor, vertical farms that consist of 10 or more
levels of stacked gardens.

What Are the CONs for Using LED Grow Lights?

Initial Expenses

No doubt about it, the initial cost of an LED grow light is considerably more than an HPS or MH
grow light. All the return on investment calculations in the world can’t change the fact that you have to
put down a bunch of money to get started. With LEDs, you pay more up front so you can pay less
later in electricity and lamp replacements.

Learning Curve

Any change you make to your garden, however small, can cause the need for other changes.
Since light is the most critical item in the garden, changing it will definitely lead to other changes, such
as the number and size of plants the garden can support, pruning techniques, nutrient strength,
light/dark period temperatures and humidity.

Unfortunately, these changes are garden-specific; there is no table that says, “If you did this
under HPS/MH, do this under LED.” The best advice when starting out with LED grow lights is to think
like you’re a novice grower again, even if you have lots of indoor gardening experience. Go slow,
watch your garden closely, think things through and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Wonky on the Eyes

LED grow lights typically produce a purplish color that can mask all kinds of indoor garden
problems. Pest prevention is considerably more challenging under LEDs because the color of the
light hides pest damage.

Once the damage is bad enough to be visible under LEDs, it’s often late into the infestation,
when the most damage has already occurred. Invaders are more easily eradicated during the onset
of the attack rather than later when they become more visible.

Just like pest damage, nutritional problems have a way of hiding under LEDs until it’s almost
too late. Depending on the specific wavelengths in the LED grow light, the plants themselves can look
dark—almost black in some cases. Your plants might look the same whether they are a lush green or
almost completely yellowed and underfed.

Both problems can be solved with the same solution: turn off the LEDs and use “white” light to
inspect the garden. Mount a regular compact fluorescent light somewhere in the garden or inspect it

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thoroughly with a 2-ft. fluorescent light bar. Take a really good look, not just a quick pass. This is your
opportunity to head off problems before they begin. Do this at least once a week.

Heavy

A quality LED grow light will be heavy because it includes an appropriately sized heat sink.
LEDs need about 10 sq. in. of heat sink per watt of LED. Looking at the wattage of some of today’s
high-powered LED grow lights, one can see the need for a large heat sink, which makes the lights
fairly heavy.

Be sure your ceiling is strong enough to support the weight of the lights or reinforce it
appropriately. A bit of framing work now can save a big headache later.

Growing Against the Grain

LED grow lights are still in their infancy stage. As is the case with adopting any early
technology, you may find yourself going it alone. You can walk into any indoor gardening center and
discuss a result or get a question answered about HPS/MH grow lights. Try going into your local store
and asking LED-specific questions.

Most likely they cannot help you out of their personal experience, and at best will repeat some
rumors they have heard about LEDs. They may even try to talk you out of using LEDs or swear that
LEDs don’t work. By now, we have HPS/MH gardening pretty much down to a science, but
collectively we don’t know much yet about how LED grow lights and plants interact.

You may find some indoor gardeners who claim to be experts are simply not ready to accept
any new garden light, LED or otherwise. If you grow under LEDs, you will catch grief from these
growers. This is typical when trying new things and growing against the grain. Don’t let them bully
you: stay your course, tend your garden carefully and your results should speak for themselves.

Credit: Christopher Sloper

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 Chapter 9

The Latest in LEDs

Introduction
Over the eons, mankind has strived to both see the light and effectively use and improve it,
both for necessity and for expanding time and awareness.

Let’s start with a little history. The very first light fixture is thought to have been manufactured
around 70,000 B.C. It was composed of a sea shell reflector, moss filament and animal fat as an
energy source. Fast-forward to around 3,000 B.C. when the Chinese mass-produced the first
reflector. The Yan Suis (solar igniter) was a small mini-parabolic sun mirror used by all young men
and worn on their belt.

Producing roughly 30,000 a day, these units were used for starting fires and, as some
speculate, for sending signals and for the Confucius warriors to blind their enemies. Around 1,000
A.D., there were Roman street lights. In 1879, we got the first incandescent light bulb and in 1901 we
saw the first mercury vapor, followed by the first fluorescent lamp in 1926. Finally, in 1996 we saw the
first LED.

Some Useful Definitions Regarding LEDs

Let’s pause for some definitions. The LED is extremely efficient and produces up to 98 per
cent useable light. The color and spectrum can be anything you want, but they have to be defined.
LED is a one-sided light source (or plane source). LEDs do not require a reflector, so non-reflector

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LED fixtures use a plane light source. This means much more usable light for plants, and if correctly
designed, will produce more performance in plant production.

Because LED technology has higher efficiency, with heat evenly distributed via the plane
source, an LED light can be placed much closer to plants. This lowers the required wattage. Since
LED lights can be used closer to plants, the power to run LED lights can be greatly reduced
compared to other lighting technologies and their higher wattage systems. Inverse-square law is a
physics rule that helps to understand this. It is also affected in some cases, such as fluorescent, by
the milliamp output.

In other words, the light drops drastically the further the fixture is placed from the plants. The
LED also drastically reduces heat at the plant level because of even distribution. This is where the
physicists, electronic engineers and horticultural testers come in—defining, refining and testing.

Another key factor in LED development for horticulture is lumens per watt (the amount of light
output per watt). The majority of current LED lights operate at 110-120 lumens per watt, but some
manufacturers are producing considerably more lumen per watt. One Korean design is producing 140
lumens per watt. However, that design uses a single point source and expands the light with a
reflector, which drops the fixture’s efficiency significantly.

Different Lighting Technologies

The sodium light also operates at about 140 lumens per watt. The point source must be
converted to plane source (usable light) via geometry and a reflector. Plant elevation is set by
reflector design, point source and heat output. In other words, the light has to be both expanded from
the arc tube and kept far enough to divert heat and get the light spread out enough from the reflector.
The light also has to bounce off the reflector and down and out. Usable light drops off 10-20 per cent.

For wider coverage, it also has to be raised enough over the plants to get even distribution,
and this is set by the reflector. Every foot raised in elevation over the plants is a drastic lumen
reduction. Lumens fall off hard the farther you are from the light source. The light intensity on the
plant is 1/d2 from the light, where ‘d’ is the distance between the light and the plant. For example,
reducing the distance between light and plant from two feet to one foot means the plant will have four
times the light.

Much of the heat is also focused to the arc tube rather than evenly distributed on a sodium
fixture. Arc tubes run at roughly 900˚F and the lamp at 550˚F on a sodium lamp (on both 400W and
1,000W models). The heat can be reduced with fans, but the point source and reflector determine
elevation via lumen distribution.

HO 54W T5 lights are defined by the type of phosphorous used and the milliamps (mA). They
also utilize point source but distribute the heat better and end up with a much larger point source
distribution. The lumen output per watt starts at roughly 90 lumens per watt. Usable light is improved

44
via the reduced elevation over the plants. The T5 point source is distributed over the entire lamp. The
light output of a fluorescent lamp is proportioned to the power of the lamp. When the lamp current is
dropped from 450 mA to 350 mA, the lamp power is dropped, too. Therefore, the light output is
dropped as well.

New LED Strip Light Fixture and T5 LED Replacement Lamps

Now that we’ve covered some of the basics, let’s move on to the latest LEDs. These LEDs
were tested and met some new criteria. Their minimum was 130 lumens per watt. They are 6.5 Kelvin
and 3K full spectrum (high CRI) LEDs. They promise a reasonable return on investment within two
years and are convertible for existing hydroponic gear because they are similar to and a direct
replacement for T5 fixtures. These new LEDs are actually strip lights, and this is what I tested.

The first test of the LED strip light was a direct control for propagation between four-lamp T5
HO 220W fixtures and four-lamp 136W LEDs. Both types of the HO T5, the 350mA and 450mA
fixtures, (450mA put out 30 per cent more lumens than the 350mA), were tested against the LED
136W fixture. All fixtures were 6.5K. The T5 was tested only with Japanese tri-phosphorous lamps
because Chinese phosphorous T5 lamps drop off in lumens too quickly. Some growers have to
replace them every three months, whereas tri-phosphorous lamps can go up to18 months.

The LED 136W outperformed both T5s in plant production in controls and in the greenhouse.
Energy and heat were both reduced by 33 per cent over the T5. The unit cost on the LED was higher
than the T5 but also pays for itself within two years through energy savings. This is without factoring
in the extended lamp life of the LED. Both T5 and LED plants could be transferred to direct sunlight
but with shock.

T5 LED Replacement Lamp Tests

I also tested the new T5 LED direct replacement lamps. These were direct replacements and
did not require rewiring or a ballast change to the driver in the T5 fixture. You just plug the LED lamp
directly into the T5 fixture. The first test was 3,000-lumen LED lamps in comparison to standard T5
fluorescent lamps. The LEDs outperformed all typical T5 lamps excluding the 450 mA tri-phosphorous
lamps. Those 450mA Japanese tri-phosphorous T5s outperformed the 3,000-lumen LED.

Next, the 4,000-lumen replacement LED lamps were tested against the T5 fixtures with the
350mA and 450mA tri-phosphorous lamps. The 4,000-lumen LED lamp outperformed all the T5 H
54W fixtures and lamps.

High Output 230W T5 LED Strip Light Fixture

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 The last test was with a 230W LED strip light fixture and a 400W sodium fixture. Bell pepper
and tomato seedlings were all started with HO 54W 6.5K T5 fixtures. The plants were then
control-tested with LED 6.5K, LED 3K, and sodium 400W. The LED 6.5K outperformed with bell
pepper production. The LED 3K outperformed with tomato production. The sodium was set at the
lowest possible level with controlled ventilation.The LED fixtures ran at 100˚F. The sodium lamp ran
at a focused 550˚F. The LED fixtures had 50 per cent greater plant coverage than the sodium lamp.
The LEDs did not need protective barriers to keep the light contained to the grow area, whereas the
sodium lamp did. The LED plants transplanted easily to direct sunlight, but the sodium plants required
hardening.

Lighting has come a long way in the last 72,000 years. There have been fantastic advances in
LEDs over the last 20 years. The very latest LEDs are now proving themselves more than competitive
with previous technologies due to improved lumen per watt output, plane source lighting, heat
reduction, energy reduction, and longer lamp life.

Credit: Charles Winslow

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 Epilogue

Special Notes

The information in this guide has been gathered from public third party resources and curated.
Urbanvine.co does not claim ownership of research or content produced originally by third parties
cited in this guide. Views and statements of third parties cited in this guide are not necessarily the
views and statements of urbanvine.co.

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