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And that’s how the same setup looks with a champagne glass
If you’re not sure where you’d like to go with a particular glass photo, start with setting a
backlight.
It looks great. Especially if you’re photographing wine glasses or perfume bottles.
Backlight will make the liquid shine.
This is how my setup looks like with the speedlight on and off
If you have a softbox, use it as a white background. This is very common in product
photography.
I used a large diffuser with a speedlight behind it. The farther the speedlight is from the
diffuser, the softer the light.
If you see a round spot of light and would like more even light on the background, place
your light farther from a diffuser. Or add one more layer of diffusing material (a special
white cloth or even a sheet of vellum paper).
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6. How to Get Away With Not Photographing a Reflection
If you want a traditional symmetrical glassware shot with a reflection below, you can
place your glass on a sheet of plastic and photograph a real reflection. But that adds
one more surface to worry about.
You need to be careful about particles of dust on that surface. And you need to watch
for unwanted reflections that surface can bring to a picture.
Instead, you can try a different approach. Namely, stacking glasses upside down to fake
reflections.
Get two identical glasses, and simply place one on top of another. Voila!
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In my case, the black background is two connected sheets of A4 paper. I could glue
them to a cardboard to make them stand on their own, but actually, I just attached
them to my diffusor with tape.
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Two sheets of black paper are enough for a black background. The softbox here creates a reflection
you can see further away.
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Champagne glass with an additional reflection
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Compare the first setup (with on backlight) and the setup with a second strip-box
You can see how this strip-box adds a vertical reflection on the jar and lights the
shadows of a plant inside it. The glass on the black background gets an additional
reflection that compliments its shape.
Ideally, there should be another strip-box on the right side, to make it look symmetrical.
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An additional strip-box helps to reveal the texture and shape of a non-transparent plant
In my case, the additional strip-box is mostly useful to make a plant look not like a flat
silhouette, but like a normal object. But that’s only one example.
An additional light source also helps when you’re shooting, say, a wine bottle with a
label on the front.
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Photos with and without another light source
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Use this lighting scheme for clear and light pictures like this one
For this shot, I used 105 mm lenses. A focal length like this has two advantages. First,
you can get further from the scene. That minimizes the chance of getting your own
reflection on the glass.
Second, you can use a smaller background. Lenses with long focal lengths compress the
space in a way that the camera sees less space behind the subject.
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For example, these two shots were taken with 50 mm and 105 mm lenses, respectively.
Nothing else changed. Check out the difference for yourself.
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A quick note about using gloves. Some photographers highly recommend them, other
say that gloves leave more dust particles.
I personally don’t like the feeling of the glove on my hand, so I’m willing to sacrifice
tidiness for the sake of utility and comfort.
But if you prefer working with gloves, pay attention to their quality. Make sure they
leave no fibre and other unwanted particles.
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If you have your perfect product photo, but still feel it looks a bit boring, try to add
some dynamic to it.
Pouring water, bubbles and splashes look incredibly good with transparent glass.
Get ready for an action shot!
Set your two lights on a low power. That provides a very short speed duration. The
scene will be lit only for 1/4000th of a second or less.
This will freeze the liquid in action, not the shutter speed. Pour some water into the
glass and take a sequence of shots.
Note how different, but equally beautiful bubbles look on black and white backgrounds.
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Be very careful with your ‘models’. The glass is very light and fragile, so you can
accidentally move it even when pouring small amounts of water.
Make sure to fix everything in place, so you won’t break any precious props.
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It seems I wasn’t careful enough
But if you happen to break a wine glass or a good-looking transparent bottle, here’s an
idea. Why not make it the centre of a conceptual still life with splashes and a simple, but
strong narrative?
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Another example of action bringing life to your composition
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1. What Props Do You Need
I strongly believe that there’s power in simplicity, so the list of props and equipment we
need is pretty short:
We’re going for a sea theme here. You can use seashells, maps, notebooks in leather
covers that can pass as the captain’s journal, maybe a Jolly Roger from a toy set and a
compass.
Make sure that every additional object is not too bright-coloured, so it won’t distract the
viewer from our main heroes.
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2. How to Break Glass for Photography
I’m planning to create an image of a broken bottle with a boat inside. This will be the
main hero.
That’s why I need not just a broken bottle, but a broken bottle that looks interesting and
has large parts intact. So, I had to break the bottle myself.
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With practice, I learned that you need to apply force the right way. Wrap the bottle with
a towel, press it against the wall and hit it with a hammer on the side.
Not on top!
If you hit it on top, the bottle will shatter into small pieces without a hint of their original
shape.
To make the remains of my bottle look more dramatic, I tilted it to the left and glued it
with a glue gun to a wooden stand.
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To do that I fixed each shard in the air with a glue gun, knitting needles, and a clamp.
And I did the same with a paper boat.
That way I have complete control over my composition. And don’t have to worry that I
need to change anything in post-processing.
One important thing to remember here is taking a shot without any visible supports.
That way you can merge two images later without any trouble.
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As the feel light, I used a large diffuser with another speedlight behind it. I need this
light to lift the shadows slightly.
It also increases overall illumination and allows me to keep the aperture more closed.
That provides a wider depth of field and I can keep more of the bottle in sharp focus.
To learn more about the art of frozen liquids, check out our tutorial on splash
photography.
If you fixed your camera on a tripod during the entire shoot, merging these images
together should be pretty simple. Place all of them on separate layers, like a Photoshop
sandwich. Create a Layer Mask for each of them.
And finally, use a soft brush to paint the area you don’t want visible with black and the
areas you want to show with white.
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Post-processing and the final image
When I finished merging splashes, I deleted all the supports, retouched the traces of
glue on flying shards, increased contrast and deleted the particles of dust from the
bottle.
That’s all!
You can try this trick with different objects. For example, this broken coffee cup and
shards of porcelain are flying with the help of the same glue gun and knitting needles.
They are non-transparent, so making a shot like this is even simpler. You don’t have to
worry about any visible glue.
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The same trick with coffee and a porcelain cup
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And with another bottle!
Sure, there are more advanced ways you can approach glass photography, but this is a
simple, easy to master start.
Now it’s your turn to try this trick, modify it and make your own. Best of luck with your
glass photography experiments!
pin it!
Save this article to your Pinterest profile to access it later!
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How to Wow Your Friends with Creative Bubble Photography
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The Perfect Mixture
How to create the perfect mixture for the most durable bubbles
Camera Settings
Understand sync speed and get the settings right for the desired
effect
How to create the perfect mixture for the most durable bubbles
Camera Settings
Understand sync speed and get the settings right for the desired effect
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