Important Basic Things To Know Always

Important Basic Things to Know Always
Page | 1
Weight Conversion
As a garments / buying house worker, we often need converting weight. For this, we need
know the information below.
Page 1
| 2lb. = 453.6 grams -----LBs = Grams / 453.6 -----Grams = LBs X 453.6
1 kg = 2.2 lbs. ----------Kilogram = LBs / 2.2 -----LBs = KG X 2.2
1. A sweater’s weight 950 grams, find out weight in lbs.?

Answer: 950 / 453.6 = 2.094 LBs (Pounds) (453.6 grams = 1 lb.)
2. A Bundle of Yarn’s weight 3 lbs., find out weight in grams?

Answer: 3 x 453.6 = 1360.80 grams (1 lb. = 453.6 grams)
3. A sweater of 3 kg weight, find out weight in lbs.?

Answer: 3 x 2.2 = 6.6 lbs. (1kg = 2.2 lbs.)
4. A sweater of 3 lbs. weight, find out weight in KGs?

Answer: 3 / 2.2 = 1.36 KGs (2.2 lbs. = 1 kg)
GSM, Oz (Ounces), Embroidery Unit
We, the workers of garments & buying house, are very much familiar to GSM, Oz &
Embroidery. For novice, please note, it’s generally counted weight of knitted fabric in GSM
(Grams per Square Meter). For woven fabrics, it’s counted weight in Oz (Ounce) Per
Square Yard. Now we will learn how to convert them.
Oz per Square Yards = GSM / 33.906 ----12000 stitches = 1 unit (embroidery stitch)
100cm X 100cm X 100cm = 1 CBM -----12inches X 12inches X 12 inches = 1 Cubic Feet
5. A Single Jersey Knit Fabric GSM 200 grams, find out Oz per Square Yard?
Answer: 200 / 33.906 = 5.898 Oz. (33.906 GSM =1 Oz per Square Yard)
6. A Twill Fabric of 8 Oz, find out its GSM?

Answer: 8 x 33.906 = 271 GSM. (1 Oz per Square Yards = 33.906 GSM)
7. A fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its GSM?
Answer: (120 + 60) x 47 / (40 + 40) + 5 = 110 GSM (We should called around 110 as there
are a lot of formulas & no formula can reach the actual amount of GSM till now)
Formula: (warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count. + Weft Count.) + 5 = GSM.
In case different types of warp thread or weft thread is used then this formula may not work
accurately. It is also known as conversion formula from Fabric Construction to Fabric
Weight.
Page | 3
8. A woven fabric with warp thread 120, weft thread 60, Count of yarn 40, find out its
Oz per Square Yard?
Answer: {(120 + 60) x 47 / (40 + 40) + 5} / 33.906 = 3.27 Oz per Square Yard. (1 Oz per
Square Yard = 33.906 GSM)
Formula: {(warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count + Weft Count) + 5} / 33.906 = Oz per Square

Yard
See the photo below to identify warp & weft threads.
Identify warp & weft threads
Note: Fabric Construction (120 x 60 / 40 x 40) means there are 120 threads in warp (EPI) &
60 threads in weft (PPI) & both yarn’s count is 40 on 1 square inch fabric. EPI means Ends
per Inch & PPI means Picks per Inch.
See photo below to identify EPI & PPI.

Page | 4
Identify EPI & PPI

The image above shows that vertical threads are EPI (warp thread) & horizontal threads are
PPI (weft thread).
9. A carton Length 60cm, Width 40cm & Height 30cm, find out CBM (Cubic Meter)?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30 / 1000000 = 0.072 CBM (1 CBM = 1000000 square cm)
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000
10. Carton’s Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, find out CBM of 100 cartons?
Answer: 80 x 60 x 30 / 1000000 x 100 = 14.4 CBM.
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity
11. Carton’s Length 14 inches, Width 12 inches, Height 8 inches, find out CBF (Cubic
Feet)?
Answer: 14 x 12 x 8 / 1728 = 0.777 CBF (1 CBF = 1728 square inches)
Formula: length X width X height / 1728
12. 1 unit embroidery stitch price tk.20, one garment has 800 embroidery stitches,
find out embroidery costing of the garment?
Answer: 20 / 12000 x 800 = 1.33 taka. 1 embroidery unit = 12000 embroidery stitches.
Formula: price / 12000 X embroidery stitches

C. Measures Conversion:
To learn about Measures conversion, please memorize the formulas below. It’s so important
for RMG workers to know & learn measures conversion.
Page 1
| 5inch = 2.54 cm centimeter (cm) = inch X 2.54 1 meter = 39.37 inches 36 inches = 1 yard
13. A fabric with a length of 100 yards, find out its length in meters?
Answer: 100 x 36 / 39.37 = 91.44 Meters (1 yards = 36 inches) (1 meter = 39.37 inches)
14. A fabric with a length of 100 meters, find out its length in yards?
Answer: 100 x 39.37 / 36 = 109.36 Yards.
15. A fabric’s Width (Dia) is 54 inches, find out the Knitting Machines Dia in cm?
Answer: 54 x 2.54 + 1.62(Shrinkage Percentage) = 138.78cm
(Suppose, this fabric’s shrinkage% is 3 after finish/wash. We’ll learn of fabric shrinkage in
my next Note well)
D. Fabric Consumption:
Fabric Consumption is very important for a probationer of management
& merchandizing. As 60% to 70% cost of a garments comes from fabrics. During fabric
consumption, please consider wastage minimum 5%.
16. A fabric piece of Length 10 yards, Width 40 inches & GSM 180, find out its weight
in kg?
Answer: 10 x 36 x 40 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.67 KGs
Formula: length X width X GSM / 1550000 (1 yard = 36 inches)
Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into inches, as you see we have fabric length in
yard & width is in inches. Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of
fabric is mentioned in inches or yards. For cm & meters, the value will be changed.
17. A fabric roll of Length 70 meters, Width 48 cm, GSM 200, find out the fabric roll’s
weight in kg?
Answer: 70 x 100 x 48 x 200 / 10000000 = 6.72 KGs
Formula: length X width X GSM / 10000000 (1 Meter = 100 cm)
Firstly, you have to convert the fabric length into cm (centimeter), as you see we have fabric
length in meters & width is in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the
measures of fabric is mentioned in cm or meters.
18. 2 KGs’ fabric with length 15 yards, width 28 inches, find out its GSM?
Answer: 2 x 1550000 / 15 / 36 / 28 = 205
Formula: kg X 1550000 / length / width (1 yard = 36 inches)
Page | 6
Here value “36” is used to convert fabric’s length into inches, because we have fabric length
in yard & width is in inches. Please note, divided value “1550000” is used if the measures of
fabric is mentioned in inches or yards. For cm & meters, the value will be “10000000”.
19. 2 kgs fabric with length 14 meters, width 71 cm, find out it’s GSM?
Answer: 2 x 10000000 / 14 / 100 / 71 = 201.
Formula: kg x 10000000 / length / width (1 meter = 100 centimeter)
Here value “100” is used to convert fabric’s length into centimeter, because we have fabric
length in meter & width is in cm. Please note, divided value “10000000” is used if the
measures of fabric is mentioned in cm or meters.
20. A basic pant of Length 40 inches, width 12 inches, GSM 210, find out its fabric
consumption in KGs?
Answer: 40 x 12 x 4 x 210 / 1550000 + 5% = 0.27 kg.
Formula: length X width X 4 X GSM / 1550000 + Wastage% (This formula is applied if the

measurement of pant is in inches, for cm measurement value “1550000” will be changed.
Value “4” means the pant has four panels or sides.
Please Note, all measurements mentioned in this book are imaginary. Merchandiser of a
factory always calculates consumptions of something in dozen. But I’ve calculated in piece.
You need multiply the outcome with 12 to convert consumption in dozen.
The photo below shows you a pants Length & Width.

Page | 7
A pants Length & Width

21. A pant with Length 100 cm, Width 30 cm, GSM 210, Figure out it’s Fabric
Consumption in KGs/dzn ? (1 dozen = KGs?)
Answer: 100 x 30 x 4 x 210 / 10000000 + 5% x 12 = 3.18 KGs.
Formula: (length X width X 4 X GSM / 10000000 + 5%) x 12 (This formula is applied if

the measurement of pant is in cm)
22. A pant of Length 40 inches, Width 12 inches, you have a fabric of width 34 inches,
find out 12 (dozen) pants’ fabric consumption into yards ?
Answer: (40 x 12 x 4 / 34 / 36 + 5%) x 12 = 19.81 Yards.
Formula: (length X width X 4 / Fabric Width / 36 + wastage %) x 12 (36 inches = 1

yard)
23. A T-shirt with Chest 46 cm, Body Length 60 cm, Sleeve Length 23 cm, Half
Armhole 27 cm, fabric’s GSM 200, figure out its fabric consumption in kgs/dzn?
Answer: [{(46 x 60) + (23 x 54)} x 2 / 200 / 10000000 + 5%] x 12 = 2 kgs.
Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 X GSM + wastage%] x

12
24. A T-shirt with Chest 18 inches, Body Length 24 inches, Sleeve Length 9 inches,
Half Armhole 10 inches, fabric width 48 inches, find out it’s fabric consumption in
yards / dozen ?
Answer: [{(18 x 24) + (9 x 20)} x 2 / 48 / 36 + 5%} x 12] = 8.95 yards.
Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 / fabric width / 36 +

wastage%] x12.
The photo below indicates T-shirt & its measurement point.
Page | 8
T-shirt & its measurement
Note: A shirt or pant with more parts like collar, pocket, cuff etc. then we’ve to figure out
consumption of each parts separately, and finally we need add all consumptions together.
One more important thing, I didn’t mention sewing allowance during fabric consumption of
product. You have to add sewing allowance with each measurement point during fabric
consumption.
25. Suppose, we've made a marker of 5 pcs shirts to cut fabrics. we see, marker
length 7 yards 4 inches, marker width 60 inches, fabric GSM 180, now figure out
Marker Consumption & Fabric Consumption in Dozen ?
Answer: Marker Consumption: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 = 1.78 KGs You see,
firstly I’ve converted Marker Length into inches (7 x 36 + 4) as 36 inches = 1 yard.
Formula: marker length X marker width X GSM / 1550000
Fabric Consumption in dozen: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 / 5 x 12 = 4.28 KGs.

Formula: marker consumption / pcs X 12
so, we see,
KG = length X width X GSM / 1550000
Or, Length = KG x 1550000 / width / GSM
or, Width = KG x 1550000 / length / GSM
or, GSM = KG x 1550000 / length / width (Please add wastage minimum 5% with all
outcome).
Page | 9
E. Thread Consumption:
We often need figure out thread consumption of various items like Shirt, Shorts, Tank tops
and Pants etc. Thread consumption means how much thread we need to stitch a product.
To figure out thread consumption, we’ve to pay concentration on sewing machines, number
of needles, fabric thickness & above all how much thread is used to stitch 1 inch by a
machine. And you need consider minimum 10% wastage to find out thread consumption of
a product. Information below shows you how much threads you need to stitch 1 inch of
fabric. It differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & construction. Besides you can stitch 10
inches of a fabric, then cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each thread, then figure out
total length of threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. We know, it’s a long process.
Better we can memorize information below & imagine wastage depending on fabric GSM.
For fabric with high GSM, we’ve to increase wastage percentage. If we want to figure out
thread consumption of a shirt, then firstly we’ve to separate the different stitching of that
shirt. Look information below for how much thread you need to stitch one inch fabric by
different sewing machines.
Single Needle Plain Machine needs 2.75 inches thread for per inch stitch
 2 Needles Plain Machine = 5.5 inches for per inch stitch

 3 Threads Over lock Machine = 15 inches thread for per inch stitch
 4 Threads Over lock Machine = 19 inches thread for per inch stitch
 5 Threads Over lock M/c = 23 inches for per inch stitch
 Safety Stitch = 20 inches for per inch stitch
 Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches for per inch stitch
 2 Needle Kansai M/c = 12 inches for per inch stitch
 1 Needle Chain Stitches = 5 inches for per inch stitch
 Feed of the Arm M/c = 11 inches for per inch stitch
 Button Hole = 24 inches for per inch stitch
 Bar take M/c = 26 inches for per inch stitch
 Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches thread
 Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches thread
26. A shirt having 104 inches 4 Threads Over lock stitches, 52 inches Flat lock
stitches, 20 inches 1 Needle Chain stitches, 15 inches Single Needle Plain Machine
stitches, GSM is normal, find out its thread consumption in meters?
Page Answer: {(104
| 10 x 19) + (52 x 32) + (20 x 5) + (15 x 2.75) + 10%} / 39.37 = 106.71 Meters.
(39.37 inches = 1 Meter)
27. Suppose, we want to buy thread cones with 2000 meters thread, now figure out
how many cones do we need to stitch 3000 pcs of garments, per garment’s thread
consumption 106.71 meters?
Answer: 106.71 x 3000 / 2000 = 160 cones.
You can also visit following website that will provide you excel files for calculating thread
consumption of different product.
F. Carton Consumption & Pricing:

28. A carton with Length 60cm, Width 40cm & Height 30cm, figure out a Cargo
Measurement for 208 cartons?
Answer: 60 x 40 x 30 / 1000000 x 208 = 14.976 CBM
Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity
29. A carton of 7 Ply, Length 80cm, Width 60cm, Height 30cm, total carton 120 pcs,
find out carton measurement in square meter ?
Answer: (80 + 60 + 6) x (60 + 30 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x 120 =329 Square Meters.
Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton

quantity. (You can avoid wastage, if you wish)
30. 3 ply carton’s per square (100 x 100) meter’s rate is USD 0.20, carton’s length is
60cm, width 40cm, height 30cm, total required carton quantity is 150 Pcs, figure out
price of total cartons?
Answer: (60 + 40 + 6) x (40 + 20 + 4) x 2 / 10000 x 150 x 0.20 = 48.70 USD.
Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton

quantity X price
G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing:

Most used poly bags in garments industries are PP (polypropylene) poly bags, PE
(polyethylene) & LDPE (low density polyethylene), HDPE (high density polyethylene) etc.
Basically there’re three different ways to measure poly bags thickness.
 Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)

 Microns (1 microns = 1/1000 of a mm)
 Gauge (1 gauge = 1/100000 of an inch)
Conversion, 1 mil = 25 microns = 100 gauge.
Page Note: Gauge
| 11 is the most used system of counting poly bags’ thickness worldwide.
31. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly
thickness 150 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300} = 22.91 KGs for 1000 pcs
Formula: KGs needed for 1000 pcs poly bags = {(length + half flap) X width X gauge /
3300}
Now, if we want to find out weight of 1 pcs poly bag, then we need divide the outcome with
1000.
Answer: 22.91 / 1000 = 0.023 KGs. (1 pcs poly bag weight)
Note: You see, I count flap measurement in half (1.5 inches) during calculation because
flap is single layer & length, width of a poly bag is double layer.
32. Now the question is 1 lbs. polymer price is 0.40 USD, find out cost of 22.91 KGs
polymer?
Answer: 22.91 x 2.2 x 0.40 = 20.16 USD. (1 KG = 2.2 lbs.)
33. A poly bags having length 30 inches, flap 3 inches, width 16 inches, poly
thickness 150 gauge. 1 lbs. polymer price is 40 taka. Now find out cost of 1 pcs poly
bag?
Answer: {(30 + 1.5) x 16 x 150 / 3300 / 1000 x 2.2 x 40} = 2.01 taka
H. Button Linear & Button Counting:

34. Figure out ligne of a button with 10mm Dia?
Answer: 10 / 0.635 = 15.75 ligne or 16 L (L means ligne)
Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button Dia in mm

35. per shirt has 6 buttons, total order quantity 3456 pcs, figure out total button
quantity in GG?
Answer: 6 x 3456 / 1728 = 12 GG. Formula: number of buttons per product X order
quantity / 1728 (1 GG = 1728 pcs)
Note: We need add some extra quantity (minimum 3%) while counting buttons for an order
to save us from risk in case of shortage due to defective & damaged.
Memorize the information below regarding button.

Button Linear or Button Length: 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm, 1 ligne = 0.635 mm
12 Pcs = 1 Dozen, 12 Dozen = 1 Gross, 12 Gross = 1 GG (1728 pcs).
I. Threads Length Calculations:

Page 36.
| 12If I question you to figure out length of 2 lbs. (pound) single cotton threads? Then the
question will be so tough for few of us to solve. So, we first need know information below.
Then the question will be so nice & easy.
 1 lb. single cotton thread length = 840 yards

 1 lb. single linen / viscose thread length = 300 yards
 1 lb. single wool thread length = 300 yards
 1 lb. single silk thread length = 840 yards
 1 lb. single acrylic thread length = 560 yards
Answer: 2 x 840 = 1680 yards. (As we knew from above information that 1 lb. single cotton
thread length = 840 yards)
37. Figure out Length of 2 lbs. 16s (sixteen single) cotton thread?
Answer: 2 x 16 x 840 = 26880 yards. (1 lb. single (1) cotton thread length = 840 yards)
Therefore, Sixteen Single (16s) = 16 x 840 = 13440 yards = 1 lb.
Note: The count of yarn (thread) will be increased, then the thickness of yarn will be
decreased. Just practice it more & more to make you perfect.
J. Sweater Gauge Counting & Yarn Consumption:

In knitting, the word gauge is used both in hand knitting and machine knitting. Technical
abbreviation is GG, refers to "Knitting Machines" fineness size. In both cases, the term
refers to the number of stitches per inch, not the size of the finished garment. In both cases,
the gauge is measured by counting the number of stitches (in hand knitting) or the number
of needles (on a knitting machine bed) over several inches then dividing by the number of
inches in the width of the fabric.
See image below to know how to count Knitting Gauge.

Page | 13
Knitting Gauge
38. Now question is - A sweater has 50 stitches on 4 inches fabric, find out its gauge
(GG)?
Answer: 50 / 4 = 12.5 (That means the sweater belongs to 12 GG).
Otherwise, we can memorize the information below to identify sweater’s knitting gauge by
yarn (Count and Ply). I’m not a sweater expert, you can discuss with expert for more
information. (If you need).
Sweaters GG
Gauge Count & Ply Count & Ply

3 GG 2/16 4 plies
5 GG 2/16 3 plies
7 GG 2/16 2 plies
10 GG 2/32 3 plies
12 GG 2/32 2 plies 2/16 1ply
Note: To figure out yarn consumption of sweater, you’ve to add minimum 10% wastage.
See calculation below as reference.
39. Sweater’s color is white, order quantity 5000 pcs, yarn consumption in dozen 11.5
lbs. how many lbs. of yarn you need for this order?
Answer: 11.5 / 12 x 5000 + 10% = 5324 lbs. Formula: yarn consumption dozen / 12 x 5000
+ 10% (wastage)
Page K.
| 14Garments CM (Cost of Manufacturing) Calculation:
CM means Cost of Manufacture. It actually means Manufacturing Cost of 1 Dozen (12 pcs
garments). To calculate Manufacturing Cost of 1 dozen knit garments of a specific order
we’ve to know the topics below:
1. Monthly expense of factory,

2. Total running machine,
3. Machine quantity to execute the layout of mentioned order,
4. Daily (8 hour per day) productivity of the order,
5. Dollar conversion rate (if monthly expense is different from USD)
Suppose,
 Monthly Factory Expense = 50,00,000 Taka

 Working days of the month = 26 days
 Daily Factory Expense: 50, 00,000 / 26 = 1, 92,307.69 Taka. Formula: monthly
factory expense / working days in the month
 Total running machine quantity = 150 Machines
 Daily Expense of 1 Machine: 192307.69 / 150 = 1282.05 Taka. Formula: daily
factory expense / total running machine
 Machine quantity of layout for mentioned order = 27
 Daily cost for the layout: 1282.05 x 27 = 34,615 Taka. Formula: daily expenditure of
1 machine X Machine qty for the layout
Suppose,
 Hourly production of the layout = 125 pcs

 Normal daily working hour = 8 hours
 So, Daily Production of the layout: 125 x 8 = 1000 pcs. Formula: hourly production of
the layout X normal daily working hour
 Manufacturing cost of 1pc: 34615 / 1000 = 34.62 Taka. Formula: daily cost for the
layout / daily production of the layout
 So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments): 34.62 x 12 = 415.44 Taka.
Formula: manufacturing cost of 1pc x 12
 Dollar conversion rate: 1 US Dollar = 77.30 Bangladeshi Taka.
 So, CM (Manufacturing Cost of 12 pcs garments) in US Dollar: 415.44 / 77.30 = 5.37
Page | 15 US$
 20% profit would be added with CM: 5.37 x 20% = 1.07 US$
 So, Final CM = 5.37 + 1.07 = 6.44 US$.
L. Garments Costing Formula:
For garments costing, one needs to have clear concept of the raw materials’ price & CM
calculation of garments. Following one is the sample costing sheet of knit garments. If you
need this sheet in excel file, then mail me. This sheet will give you a basic clear concept
regarding garments costing. As garments costing depends on various aspects, so there is
no specific formula for garments costing except this sheet.
Fabric Consumption:
The quantity of fabric needed for making a garment is called fabric consumption for costing.
It is difficult to know the actual consumption before completion of marker planning but we
can get an approximate fabric consumption from sample.
Page Fabric
| 16 consumption is calculated by two process:
1. From marker ( it is more accurate)

2. From measurement or mathematical system ( it is approximate)

How to calculate fabric consumption from marker?
For example, if we have got 12 pcs marker and we know that markers needed fabric is 25
yds. and one time we lay 200 ply. So how much time to lay and what is the actual fabric
consumption for 1000 dozen of garments?
Solution:
One time lay, we can get, 200 X 12 = 2,400 Pcs.
Here, total garments, 1000 dozen = 12 X 1000 = 12,000 Pcs.
Lay time = 12,000 ÷ 2,400 = 5 times lay.
Fabric consumption for 1000 dozen garments = 5 X 200 X 25 = 1000 X 25 = 25,000 yds.
If wastage is 3% then actual fabric consumption = 25,000 + 3% = 25,000+750 = 25,750
yds.
International Fabric Width:
Internationally fabric having five types of width for woven fabrics 35”, 40”, 45”, 50”, 60”.
International Size Grading:
Infant baby = 1-2-3 years, Size: 1-2-3
Toddlers = 4-5-6 years, Size: 4-5-6
Boys & girls = 6-16 years, Size: 6-8/S, 9-11/M, 12-14/L, 15-16/XL, 16+/XXL.
Basic Information Relevant to Consumption:
1. Measurement with technical specification
2. Style description
3. Fabric description
4. Fabric length or weight and width
5. Washing shrinkage.
Fabric consumption per dozen of a full shirt:
Considering medium size (M) for calculation-
1. Body Section:
Page (Body
| 17 length+ allowance) X (1/2 chest+ allowance) X 2
= (74cm+5cm) X (55cm+5cm) X 2 = 79cm X 60cm X 2 = 9480 sq. cm.
1. Sleeve Section:
(Sleeve length+ allowance) X (arm hole straight+ allowance) X 2 X 2
= (65cm+4cm) X (23cm+3cm) X 4 = 69 cm X 26cm X 4 = 7176 sq. cm.
1. Collar & Collar Band:
(Collar band length+ allowance) X (collar band+ collar point+ allowance) X 2
= (41cm+3cm) X (3cm+7cm+4cm) X 2 = 44cm X 14cm X 2 = 1232 sq. cm.
1. Pocket:
(Pocket length+ allowance) X (pocket width+ allowance)
= (14cm+3cm) X (12cm+2cm) = 17cm X 14cm = 238 sq. cm.
1. Extra Yoke:
(Shoulder across+ allowance) X (yoke height+ allowance)
= (48cm+4cm) X (11.5cm+4cm) = 52cm X 15.5cm =806 sq.com.
Now fabric consumption per shirt will be,
A+B+C+D+E = (9480+7176+1232+238+806) sq.cm
=18932sq.cm=18932÷127=149.07cm=1.49m =1.5m/Pc.
Size Ratio:
S = 2X1.48 m = 2.96 m
M = 3X1.50 m = 4.50 m
L = 3X1.52 m = 4.56 m
XL = 2X1.54 m = 3.08 m
XXL =2X1.56 m =3.12 m
Total = 18.22 m/dozen.
Costing per dozen of shirt:
1. Fabric cost = 18.22 m X $ 1.64 = $ 29.88
2. Accessories cost = $ 5.50
Page | 183. Washing cost = $ 1.50

4. Dyeing cost = $ 50
5. Cutting & Making charge = $ 15
Total manufacturing cost = $ 101.88
.profit 10% = $ 1.19
Commission 5% = $ 5.09
Selling price per dozen of shirt = $ 108.16
Fabric consumption of a polo shirt:
Considering medium size (M) for calculation-
1. Body Section:
(Back length+ allowance) X (chest circle+ allowance)
= (30.75”+2”) X (48”+2”) = 32.75” X 50” = 1637 sq. inch.
1. Sleeve Section:
(Sleeve length- ½ across shoulder+ allowance) X (arm hole straight+ allowance) X 2 X 2
= (20.75”-10.5”+1.5”) X (10”+1.5”) X 4 = 11.75” X 11.5” X 4 = 540.5 sq. inch.
Now fabric consumption per shirt will be, A+B = 1637+540.5 = 2177.5 sq. inch.
=2177.5X6.45=14048.36 sq.cm. =1.40sq.m
Size Ratio:
S = 2X1.38 = 2.76 sq. m
M = 3X1.40 = 4.20 sq. m
L = 3X1.42 = 4.26 sq. m
XL = 2X1.44 =2.88 sq. m
XXL = 2X1.46 = 2.92 sq. m
Total fabric = 17.02 sq. m/dozen.
Fabric consumption=17.02 X170 (gsm) =2893.4 gms = 2.9 kg/dozen.
Costing per dozen of shirt:
1. Fabric cost (2.9 kg X $10.00) = $ 29.00
2. Collar cost/dozen = $ 8.00
Page | 194. Washing cost = $ 3.00

5. CM charge = $ 5.00
.profit 10% = $ 4.85
Fabric consumption per dozen of a trouser:
Measurement for medium (M) size:
Waist = 32”
Length = 40”
Width of crotch point = 13”
*Pocket length = 12”
*Pocket width = 7”
Fabric consumption per trouser = (length+ allowance) X (width+ allowance) X 4
= (40”+3”) X (13”+3”) X 4 = 43” X 16” X 4 = 2752 sq. inch.
Length of fabric (width of 50”) per trouser = 2752÷50 = 55.04 inch. =1.53yds.
It is also required to calculate pocketing fabric requirement. As per design two front pocket
needs pocketing fabric is calculated as follows-
= (pocket length+ allowance) X (pocket width+ allowance) X 4
= (12”+2”) X (7”+2”) = 14” X 9” X 4 = 504 sq. Inch. = 504÷45 =11.2” = 0.31yd/Pc
= 0.31 X 12 = 3.73yds/dozen = 3.73 X 0.91 = 3.40 m/dozen
Fabric consumption per dozen trouser as per size ratio:
Waist size No. of Pcs yards

Page | 20
32 2 1.53 X 2 = 3.06
33 2 1.55 X 2 = 3.10
34 3 1.57 X 3 = 4.71
35 3 1.59 X 3 = 4.77
36 2 1.61 X 2 = 3.22

Total fabric consumption = 18.86 yds. = 18.86 X 0.91= 17.16 m/dozen
Costing per dozen of trouser:
1. Fabric cost (17.76m X $2.00) = $ 35.52
2. Pocket fabric cost/dozen( 3.40m X$1.00) = $ 8.00
4. Washing cost = $ 4.50
5. CM charge = $ 20.00
.profit 10% = $ 7.30
Fabric Consumption in Garment making

How to calculate the consumption of fabric for a particular garment? we must pay more
attention to find out the fabric consumption more accurately or closely. It needs sound
knowledge and good practical experience to find out the fabric consumption. Let us analyze
here how to make this calculation.
Garment prices are mainly based on the fabric consumption. Hence we must pay more
attention to find out the fabric consumption more accurately or closely. It needs sound
knowledge and good practical experience to find out the fabric consumption. Let us analyze
here how to make this calculation.
As the knitted fabrics are knitted by the circular knitting machines, the fabrics will be in
tabular form only. Here we are going to see the garments which are made of 100% Cotton
Page fabrics
| 21 in tubular form.
To work on the prices exactly, we must have full measurements of the garment. But
compulsorily, we must have the measurements of Chest, Body Length and Sleeve Length.
Variable Functions
1. Fabric Consumption
2. Fabric Cost
3. Accessories Cost
4. Print/Embroidery/Washing Charge
5. C.M.
6. Freight (C & F)
7. Payment mode (at sight deferred payment 60days or 90 days or 120 days, TT, Sales
Contract)
Consumption of fabric
1. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
(L + S.L. + AL-01) × (½ C + AL-02) × GSM ×2×12+Wastage%
100 100 1000
L (Length) = HPS (High Point Shoulder

= CBL (Central Back length)
= BL (Body Length)
S.L = Sleeve Length
AL = Allowance
Allowance
1. Sewing Allowance:
This is actually sewing allowance in lengthwise of a garment.
For T-Shirt:
Page | Bottom
22 Hem = 2.5-3 Cm
Shoulder Join = 1.5 Cm
Sleeve Hem = 2.5- 3 Cm
Sleeve Join = 1.5 cm
Sub Total = 9 cm
In Hand = 1 cm
Grand Total =10 cm
Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 2 cm

Note: Pocket, Half moon, double layer bottom hem, and double layer sleeve s/b calculated
on lengthwise.
2. Chest Allowance:
This is sewing allowance in widthwise of garment
Side Seam = ½ Chest + 3cm
Tube Seam= ½ Chest + 0 cm
per cut and sewn allowance= 2 cm2.
Consumption (Kg/ Doz) = Length in Meter X Width in M X GSM in Kg X 2 X 12 + Wastage
Percentage
3. Neck Rib # 1×1/1×1 Elastane rib circular
Neck Rib Consumption:
Height (Length) = Rib height or rib width or rib depth
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance
Width = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 5 cm (V-shape)
A=Body Length= 70 cm
B=Sleeve length=25 cm
½ C ==1/2Chest =55 cm
A= Body length 1=15 cm
B=Body Length 2= 15 cm
Page C=
| 23Body Length 3=40 cm
D= ½ Chest=55 cm
A1= Sleeve length1=10 cm
B1= Sleeve Length2=5 cm
C1=Sleeve length3=10 cm
Example:-Calculate the consumption/doz on the basis of 180 GSM, S/J and neck rib gsm
230
Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =
( 70 + 25 + 10) ( 55 + 3) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 2.76 kg/ doz
For picture 02:

Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color A) =
( 15 + 10 + 8) ( 55 + 3 ) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 0.86 kg/ doz
Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color B) =
( 15 + 5 + 4) ( 55 + 3 ) 180
× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 0.63 kg/ doz

Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color C) =
Page | (2440 + 10 + 5) ( 55 + 3 ) 180

× × × 2 × 12 + 5 %
100 100 1000
= 1.44 kg/ doz
Total consumption: 0.86+0.63+1.44 = 2.93 kg/ doz

Neck Rib Consumption:
Width = Neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
= 19X2+2 = 40 cm
Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance= 2X2 +2=6 cm
= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 12 + Wastage

2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) = .06 X .4X.230X12+18%
=.07 kg/ Doz

Note:
Following point s/b considered during marketing cost:
1.Fleece dia is not available.
2. Y/D stripe wastage is huge
Math 02
Question: Fabric Length 100yds width 58 inches (Open) GSM 230, what is fabric weight?
Ans: Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in Kg
= l x w x GSM= (100 Yds. X36 X 2.54)/100 X (58 X 2.54)/100X 230/1000

W (Kg) = 91.44 x 1.4732 x .230
= 30.99 kg

2. Question: Fabric weight 50 kg, Fabric width 40 inch (tube) GSM 180. What is fabric
length in meter?
Ans: Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in KgW (Kg) = l x w x
GSM
50 = l x (40x 2.54x 2)/ 100 X 180/1000
= 136.70 meter
L = 136.70 x 1.0937 yds. [1 meter = 1.0937 yds.]
= 149.50 yds.

Page | 25
3.Question: Fabric price 2.25 USD/ yds, Width 45 inch open, GSM 200, Consumption 3.20
kg/doz, what is the garment fabric cost for per doz garments?
= L (M) X w (M) X GSM (kg)

Ans: W (kg)
= L (M) X (45X2.54)/100 X 200/1000
= (3.20 X100X 1000) / (45X 2.54 X 200)

= 13.99 (M)
L (M)
= 13.99 X 1.0937 yds.
= 15.30 yds.
= Length X Unit price/ yds.

= 13.99 (M)
Fabric cost (Per doz gmt)
= 15.30 x 2.25
= 34.56 USD / Doz
Piping or Binding or Back Tape:

Cons: Length in M x width in M x GSM in Kg x 12 + allowance (18%)
Length: Neck width x 2 + 2 (R shape)
Width: If width is 1 cm or any unit Pls multiply by 4
Wastage:
Distribution:
1. Sewing wastage = 3%
2. Cutting and Finishing=2%
3. Print Wastage=2-3%
4. EMB Wastage=2-3%
5. Garment Wash wastage=5% above (Depends on wash type)
Wash types and their wastage
 Garment Normal Wash=2-3%
 Garment Enzyme Wash=3-5%
 Garment Stone Wash= 5-10%

 Garment Pigment dyeing & wash=10-20%
Note: Wastage is variable depending on factory to factory.
Page | 26
Woven Fabric Consumption Formula
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. How
much fabric is required to produce a garment, we can determine it through marker
planning and mathematical system. We can calculate and determine the consumption of
fabric by the following two systems: 1. Marker planning system 2. Mathematical system.
There are also two formula for fabric consumption. One is woven fabric consumption
formula and another is knit fabric consumption formula. Now I only discuss on Consumption
of woven fabric. Which is done in mathematical system.
To calculate the woven fabric consumption the following requirements is need.

1. Fabric Description.
2. Fabrics width/weight.
3. Measurement chart with technical spec.
4. Washing shrinkage if any.
5. Style Description.
Formula for woven fabric consumption:
Formula = Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit
Here,
Length = length of the specific parts + allowance
Width = width of the specific parts + allowance
Page Fab
| 27 width = Fabric width ( after considering the shrinkage allowance). Say, fabric width is
45″ & the shrinkage allowance is 1″, Then the Fabric width will be (45″-1″) = 44″ in the
formula.
Fab unit = Fabric calculation unit, here it will be 36 because we are going to calculate the
consumption in Yards.
For example, calculate the consumption of a Shirt (front part):
Center front length = 32″+1″ (Sewing allowance) = 33″
Width (Chest) = 24″ + 1″ (Sewing allowance) + 3″
Pleat.W (1.5*2) = 28″

= Length X Width / Fab width X Fab Unit
= 33″ X 28″ / 44″ X 36″
= 924″ / 1584″
= 0.5833333
= 0.59 Yards. (For front part)
Shortcut Method of Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt
Introduction:
In the garments trade, consumption means quality of raw materials with a view to determine
the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, sewing
thread, zipper, button and other accessories are required to produce a garment up to the
exporting is called consumption.
In previous article we have discussed about:
Fabric Consumption Calculation of Long Sleeve Woven Shirt
It is called Shortcut formula for quick consumption.
Body length = Body length + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
allowance to be added).
Body width = Chest width + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
allowance to be added).
Sleeve length = Sleeve length + Seam allowance. (In case of wash garments, washing
allowances to be added).
Page | 28
Example:
How much fabric would be required to produce a Basic long sleeve shirt, where:
 Body length = 32"

 1/2 Chest = 24"
 Sleeve length = 23"
 & Fabric width = 45"
Body length = 32" + 1" (Seam Allowance) = 33"
Sleeve Length = 23" + 2.5" (Cuff width) + 1.5" (Seam Allowance) = 27"
1/2 Chest Width = 24" +1" ( S.A) + 3" Pleat Width = 28"
Consumption Formula = { 1/2 Chest × ( C.B length + Sleeve length ) × 2 ÷ 36 ÷

Fabric Width + Wastage %}
So, Consumption = { 28 × (33 + 27)} × 2 ÷ 36 ÷ 44 + 5%
= {28×60} × 2 ÷ 36 ÷ 44+5%
= 2.22 yds./pc.

Page | 29
Fig: Shortcut consumption formula for woven shirt
Conclusion:
So the consumption formula is very important for garments production and over all
garments activities. Shortcut consumption formula is easy and short time formula for
consumption.
Calculate Fabric Consumption for Woven Trouser:
Example: Calculate the fabric consumption for the given specification of a woven trouser.
The measurements are provided in Table.
Table: Measurement details of woven trouser
Description Measurements in inch

Page | 30
Inseam length 34″
Half of thigh 13″
Back rise 15″
Waist band width 1.5″
Pocket length 7″
Pocket width 6.5″
Belt loop (l*w) – 5 numbers 1.5″ * 0.5″
Waist band circumference 38″
Pocket back (l*w) 7.5″ * 6.5″
Fabric width (1″ selvedge) 58″
Non-woven fabric width 58″
Waste % 5%

Solution:
From the provided data, the components of this garment are,
 Front – 2 panel,
 Back – 2 panel,
 Waist band – 1,
 Pocket – 2 set,
 Belt loop – 5 numbers and
 Pocket bag – 2 set.

From the measurement, the full length is = (inseam + back raise)
= 34 + 15
= 49”
Page | 31
The main fabric consumption =

{(Max body length x Max body width x Number of panel) + (Pocket length x Width x
Number of pockets) + (Front wait length x Width x 2) + (Belt loop width x Length x Number
of loops)}
=
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------- + waste %
(Fabric width – selvedge) x 39.37
{(49 x 12 x 4) + (7 x 6.5 x 2) + (38 x 1.5) + (1.5 x 0.5 x 5)}

= ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ + 5%
(58 – 1) x 39.37
{(2548) + (91) + (57) + (3.75)}

= -------------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(57) x 39.37
2699.75
= ------------------ + 5%
2244.09
= 1.2030 + 5% of 1.2030
= 1.2632
Fabric consumption = 1.2632 meter / trouser.
The pocket bag fabric consumption:

If the pocket fabric used in different fabric, that particular fabrics width need to be
considered in this calculation. In this case, there is no information about separate fabric.
Hence, it is assumed that the pocket bag produced from the body fabric. So the same fabric
width is used.
(Pocket bag length x width x 2)
= ---------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(58 – 1) x 39.37
(7.5 x 6.5 x 2)
Page = --------------------------- + 5%
| 32
57 x 39.37
97.5
= ---------------- + 5%
2244.07
= 0.0434 + 5% of 0.0434
= 0.0456 meter / trouser
The non-woven fabric consumption:

The non-woven fabric is used as interlining material in the waist band. If information’s
regarding the width of the non-woven is provided it can be used. If not it is better to enquire
the availability in the stores. Based on the available width it can be used, in this case the
same width is provided.
(Waist band circumference x width)

= -------------------------------------------------------- + 5%
(58 −1) x 39.37
38 x 1.5
= ------------------------------ + 5%
57 x 39.37
57
= --------------- + 5%
2244.09
= 0.0254 + 5% of 0.0254
= 0.02667 meter / trouser
the consumption details of the woven trouser are as follows:
 Main fabric = 1.2632 meter / trouser.
 Pocket fabric = 0.0456 meter / trouser
 Non-woven material = 0.02667 meter / trouser

Fabric Consumption Calculation for Knit Bottom /Trouser:
To calculate knit bottom /trouser fabric consumption at first, we need to review the
knit Bottom measurement chart (also add sewing allowance on it) & fabric specification from
Technical sheet of the garment as provided by the buyer.
Page | 33
Lest consider product specification as given below:
1.100% cotton Single jersey fabric for Bottom, GSM 160
2. 100% cotton Single jersey fabric for side pockets, GSM 160
Now, let’s calculate total fabric consumption by Formula of Tee shirt for Basic
Size 152:
1. Fabric Consumption for Bottom:
= (ISL+ Allowance+ FR+ Allow+ WB+ Allow) X (1/2 Thai+ Allow) X4 X GSM
Page X12 KGS/Dozen
| 34
10000000
= (67.5 + 5+17.5+2+4+4) X (33 +4) X 4X 160 X12 Kgs/Dozen
10000000
= 100 X 37 X 4 X 160 X12 Kgs/Dozen
10000000
=2.84 Kgs/Dozen
2. Fabric Consumption Side Pockets:

= (Pocket Length + Allow X Pocket Width+ Allow) X4X160X12 Kg/Dozen
10000000
= (13+ 4) X (10.5+4) X4X160X12 KG/Dozen)
10000000
=0.19 KG/Dozen
Now we need to add Total consumption as Bottom part & side pockets
=2.84 +0.19
=3.03Kgs/Dozen
Now adding Wastage 10% on it

=3.03 X10%
=3.33 Kgs/Dozen
So Total Fabric consumption for this Knitted bottom/ trouser is 3.33
kgs/Dozen
Knitted Trouser Fabric Consumption System
In apparel industry, trouser is the most common items & also used widely in
garments sector. Most important task for merchandiser is calculating fabric consumption for
an order. If final consumption of an order is not accurate then manufacturer will face huge
Page problem
| 35 and may lose their reputation. For calculating fabric consumption for an order.
There are two methods are using for determining the fabric consumption. But maximum
garments are using Marker method to calculate final cad marker for a garments. Presently,
marker method is more popular then mathematical method.
Trouser (Neps)
Fabric consumption for different parts:

1. Fabric consumption for Body
2. Fabric consumption for pocket
3. Total fabric consumption
Spec sheet for Knitted trouser
Page | 36
Trousers’ M-list
Size range 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
1. Half waist (½ waist) 31 cm 32 cm 33 cm 34 cm 35 cm 36 cm 37 cm
11. Front rise (FR) 16 cm 17 cm 18 cm 18.25 19 cm 19.5 cm 20 cm

cm
12. Back rise 25.5 cm 26.5 cm 27.5 cm 27.75 28.5 cm 29 cm 29.5

cm cm
13. Waistband height 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm

(WBH)
6. Half thigh (½ thigh) 23.25 24.25 25.25 25.75 26.25 27.25 28 cm

cm cm cm cm cm cm
Size range 134 140 146 152 158 164 170
9. Inseam length (ISL) 58.5 cm 61.5 cm 64.5 cm 67.5 cm 70.5 cm 73.5 cm 76.5
cm
Page | 37
10. Bottom cuff height 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm 4 cm
3. Side pocket length 11.75 12 cm 12.5 cm 13 cm 13.5 cm 14 cm 14.5

cm cm
5. Side pocket width 9.25 cm 9.75 cm 10 cm 10.5 cm 10.75 11.25 11.5

cm cm cm
Fabric: Fleece terry

Item: Knitted trouser
Size: 164
Fabric weight = 260 GSM
ISL = Inseam length = 73.5 cm
SA = Seam Allowance = 5 cm
FR = Front rise = 19.5 cm
SA = Seam allowance = 0 cm
WBH = Waistband height = 4 cm
½ thigh = 27.25 cm
SA= Seam allowance = 4 cm
Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:

{(ISL + SA + FR + SA + WBH + SA) x (½ thigh + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8%
(Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(73.5 + 5 + 19.5 + 0 + 4 + 4) x (27.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 4.465 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 160):
{(Pocket Length + SA) x (Pocket Width + SA)} x 4 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8% (Wastage and
Page extra
| 38 cutting) x Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 160 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12

= 0.228 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(14 + 4) x (11.25 + 4)} x 4 x 260 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.37 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket single jersey):

Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.228
= 4.693 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption of trouser (if Pocket shell fabric):

Body consumption + Pocket consumption
= 4.465 + 0.37
= 5.063 kg / Doz.
Finally note that, using above formula we will get only fabric weight that is consumed by a
garment. In the above formula, it didn’t include marker loss, fabric loss due to fabric width
and fabric wastage (like dying loss, finishing loss etc.). When we purchase fabric we have to
consider all of those parameter.
Hooded Sweat Shirt Fabric Consumption System
In apparel industry, Sweat Shirt or Hoodie is the common items. As we know, consumption
is the most important part for an order and it’s also related with costing. Our main purpose is
to minimize the cost and make more profit from an order. There are two methods to
Page determine
| 39 the fabric consumption. They are-
1. Marker planning system
2. Mathematical system
Now maximum garments industry is using marker planning method for determining final cad
marker of an order. Actually this method is more helpful then mathematical method.
Hoodie Sweat Shirt

1. Fabric consumption for Body
2. Fabric consumption for Hood
3. Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib
4. Fabric consumption for pocket
5. Total fabric consumption
Spec sheet for men’s Jacket:
Page | 40
Hoodie Measurement Back
Hoodie Measurement Front

Size range 134/140 146/152 158/164 170
1. Half chest (1/2 chest) 37.75 cm 40.75 cm 43.75 cm 45.25 cm
Page | 41
2. Half bottom length (1/2 bottom) 35 cm 38 cm 41 cm 42.5 cm
4. Body length from shoulder (BL) 47 cm 51 cm 55 cm 57 cm
10. Sleeve length (SL) 53 cm 57 cm 62 cm 64 cm
21. Hood height 31 cm 32 cm 33 cm 33.5 cm
22. Half Hood Width 23.5 cm 24.5 cm 25.75 cm 26.5 cm
13. ½ Cuff opening 8.5 cm 9 cm 9.5 cm 9.5 cm
3. Cuff & Bottom Rib Height 4 cm 4 cm 4cm 4cm
19. Pocket Length 14 cm 15 cm 16 cm 16.5 cm
16. Pocket Width 15 cm 16 cm 17 cm 17.5 cm
Fabric: Fleece fabric

Item: Basic men’s hooded sweat shirt
Size: 158/164
BL = Body length from shoulder = 55 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 62 cm
½ Chest = 43.75 cm
Fabric consumption for Body / Doz.:
{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8% (Wastage and
Page | 42
= {(55 + 5 + 62 + 5) x (43.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 3.77 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for Hood / Doz.:

{(Hood Height + SA) x (1/2 Hood Width + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8% (Wastage and
= {(33 + 5) x (25.75 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.703 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for Bottom Rib / Doz.:

{(Bottom Length + SA + ½ Cuff opening + SA) x (Bottom Rib height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100,
00,000 + 8% (Wastage and extra cutting) x Doz.
= {(41 + 5 + 19 + 4) x (4 + 3)} x 2 x 240 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.300 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If fabric Single jersey then use GSM like 150):
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 150 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.163 kg / Doz.
Fabric consumption for pocket / Doz. (If shell fabric then uses GSM like 240):
= {(16 + 4) x (17 + 4)} x 2 x 240 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.261 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption (if Pocket single jersey):

Page | 43
Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.163
= 4.936 kg / Doz.
Total fabric consumption (if Pocket shell fabric):

Body consumption + Hood consumption + Bottom Rib consumption + Pocket consumption
= 3.77 + 0.703 + 0.30 + 0.261
= 5.036 kg / Doz.
Polo-Shirt Fabric Consumption System
In apparel industry, we know fabric consumption is the most important factor of an order. As
we already discussed, Types of fabric consumption for Knit garments & Basic knitted
T-Shirt fabric consumption system. Now we will know how to calculate polo shirt’s fabric
consumption of an order. Main reason of garments consumption is to bring an assumption
over costing of the garments. Since it depends on fabric prices therefore we should focus
on fabric consumption to get accurate and closure consumption of an order. Closure
consumption of an order will reduce fabric wastage which will be economically beneficial for
us.
Page | 44
Basic Polo Shirt Front

1. Fabric consumption for body part
2. Fabric consumption for collar
Spec sheet for men’s Polo-shirt:
M-list for Polo shirt Front

Page | 45
M-list for polo shirt Back
Size range 92 98/104 110/116 122/128 134/140
(1) Half chest (1/2 chest) 31 cm 33 cm 35 cm 37 cm 40 cm
(2)Half bottom (1/2 bottom) 31 cm 33 cm 35 cm 37 cm 40 cm
(3)Body length from shoulder (BL) 37.5 cm 41.5 cm 46 cm 50 cm 55 cm
(8)Sleeve length (SL) 17.5 cm 19 cm 21 cm 22.5 cm 24.5 cm
Collar height 5.5 cm 6 cm 6 cm 6.5 cm 6.5 cm
Collar Length 27.5 cm 31 cm 30.5 cm 32.5 cm 33.5 cm
Fabric: Pique Knit

Item: Basic men’s short Polo T-shirt
Size: 122/128
BL = Body length from shoulder = 50 cm
SL = Sleeve length = 22.5 cm
Page SA
| 46= Seam allowance = 5 cm
½ Chest = 37 cm
TF = Trim fabric (Neck collar & cuff rib) = Neck collar & cuff rib consumption 0.80 kg/Doz.
1. Fabric consumption formula for Body / Doz.:

{(BL + SA + SL + SA) x (1/2 chest + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8% (Wastage and
= {(50 + 5 + 22.5 + 5) x (37 + 4)} x 2 x 180 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 1.578 kg / Doz.
2. Fabric consumption formula for Collar / Doz.: Suppose, Collar GSM 320
{(Collar Length + SA*) x (Collar Height + SA)} x 2 x GSM / 100, 00,000 + 8% (Wastage and
= {(32.5 + 0) x (6.5 + 2.5)} x 2 x 320 / 100, 00,000 + 8% x 12
= 0.253 kg / Doz.
NOTE (Collar Length allowance): Practically, we used minus tendency in collar length

measurement. Because we can’t reduce collar length after getting the final collar from
delivery section. If you want know to calculation process for collar length, then check the
below article;
Total fabric consumption for Polo shirt / Doz.:
Body consumption + Collar consumption
= 1.578 + 0.253
= 1.831 kg / Doz.
Calculate Collar Length for Polo Shirt
In apparel industry, garments merchandiser need to develop knitted polo shirt. For
Page developing
| 47 polo shirt, we need to measure correct collar size to make the photo shirt. So,
we can say that garments merchandiser need to know correct way to measure collar
measurement for sample development or bulk production. If any mistakes come in
development stage, then garments merchandiser must be correct those mistakes before
start the bulk production. Otherwise factory will face huge lose for lack of communication
between internal department.
How to Calculate Embroidery Costing
In present day, embroidery is common term in apparel industry. Embroidery used to make
garments more attractive and fashionable. Now it has come more popular and widely in
garments manufacturing sector. In other way, we can say embroidery is the art or handicraft
of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread.
Embroidery costing for garments
Costing of embroidery are based on a “Per stitch” count. After prepared the design,
producer will run a stitch count to determine the cost of the embroidery. Before starting the
costing, garments merchandiser should consider of few factors to determine embroidery
costing. Factors are:
 Stitch number.
 Embroidery type
 Estimate time to complete one batch.
 Color of thread.
 Cutting of applique.
 Place of embroidery.
 Resource involves in doing embroidery.
 Any restriction on selection on embroidery machine
 Any lab test requirement
 Any restriction on use of embroidery thread
Calculating Embroidery Costing:

We know embroidery stitch unit is 12000 stitch but maximum time embroidery factory didn't
accept any order on stitch. Because applique, patch etc. has taken too much time that's why
embroidery factor doesn't know actual how much time consumed to complete one batch.
Page | 48
1-unit embroidery = 12,000 stitch
For calculating, the cost of embroidery we need to know below details:
 Stitch quantity of the design.
 Rate of per unite. (It depends on embroidery design, size & factories ability).
Suppose, a design have 9000 stitch & per unite price is $0.30 in unit. Let's find the the
costing of embroidery.
Rules: (Rate of Unit / 12,000 X Stitch quantity) x 12

= ($0.30 / 12,000 X 9000) X 12
= $ 2.7 / dzn
So, 2.7 USD need for 1 dzn garments if garments design has 9000 stitch.
Sewing Thread Consumption
We need to figure out sewing thread consumption of various item like T-shirt, shorts, pants
and tank tops. As a textile engineer, we need to calculate sewing thread consumption
perfectly for costing purpose / bulk production. Sewing thread consumption means how
much thread we need to stitch for a garments. To figure out garments thread consumption,
we have to pay concentration on sewing machine, number of needles, fabric thickness. We
need to calculate how much thread is used to stitch 1 inch by machine. And also we have to
consider minimum 10-15% wastage to find out thread consumption of a product. Below
information shows you how much thread you need to stitch 1 inch of fabric. By the way, it
differs fabric to fabric as on their GSM & fabric construction. If you want to check your self,
then you can stitch 10 inches of fabric, now cut 1 inch stitch, measure the length of each
thread, now figure out the threads & finally add wastage minimum 10%. It's long process, so
better we can memorize information and imagine wastage depending on GSM. For high
GSM fabric, we need to increase wastage percentage. If we are working on T-shirt then we
have to separate the different stitching of that shirt.
Sewing thread consumption
Let's see below information for how much tread you need to stitch one inch fabric by
different sewing machine:
Page | 49
Machine Needs thread per inch stitch
Plain Machine- Single Needles = 2.75 inches
2 Needles P/M (Plain Machine) = 5.5 inches
3 Threads O/L (Over lock) Machine = 15 inches
Safety stitch = 20 inches
Flat lock Stitch = 32 inches
Chain stitches - 1 Needle = 11 inches

Kansai Machine - 2 Needle = 12 inches
Button Hole = 24 inches
Bar take Machine = 26 inches
Button Stitch of 2 Eyes (holes) = 3 inches
Button Stitch of 4 Eyes (holes) = 6 inches

Now, let's find out sewing thread consumption with example:
Q.1: Suppose, we want to make consumption on T-Shirt. T-shirt have 90 inches 3 thread
Page over
| 50 lock stitches, 48 inches flat lock stitches, 18 inches 1 needle chain stitches, 16 inches
single needle Plain Machine Stitches, normal GSM is 150. Let's find out the consumption of
sewing thread in meters?
Solution: {(90 *3 thread O/L) + (48 * F/L) + (18 * 1 needle Chain stitches) + (16 * 1
needle P/M) + 10% wastage}
= {(90 * 15) + (48 * 32) + (18 * 11) + (16 * 2.75) + 10%}
= {1350 + 1536 + 198 + 44 + 15%}
= 3597 inches
= 3597 / 39.37 (1 meter = 39.37 inches)
= 91.37 meters
Q.2: Suppose, we need to buy thread cones with 4000 meters, Garments qty 2500 pcs, per
body consumption 91.37 meters. Now let's see how many cones need to stitch 2500 pcs of
garments?
Solution: Per body consumption * Garments qty / per cone in meters

= 91.37 * 2500 / 4000
= 57 cone
Collar Length calculation for Polo shirt
Before we start to calculate collar measurement, garments merchandiser should find out the
below requirement information for calculating correct collar length;
 Neck width of the polo shirt

 Neck drop front
There are many ways to calculate collar length:
Option-1: Collar Length calculation = [{(Neck Width + Neck drop front) X 2 - 3} -
12.5%]
Page | 51
Suppose, a polo shirt has Neck width 13.75 cm and Neck drop front 6 cm. Now we need to
find out collar length of polo shirt.
Solution: Collar length calculation = [{(Neck width + Neck drop front) X 2} - 3] - 12.5%
= [{(13.75 + 6) X 2} - 3] - 12.5%
= [39.5 - 3] - 12.5%
= 36.5 - 12.5%
= 31.94
= 31.5 cm
Finally, we have found the result, we need 31.5 cm length for this polo shirt. For bulk
production, merchandiser need to check with technician for smooth production.
Option-2: Collar Length calculation: {(Neck width + Neck drop front) x 3} / 2

= {(13.75 + 6) x 3} / 2
=29.63
= 29.5 cm or 29 cm
Note that, for collar length calculation we always used minus tendency. Because we can't
reduce collar length after getting the final collar pcs. So, make sure that your collar length
should be fit for the garments. For bulk secure, don't forget to re-check with garments
technician.
How to Calculate Zipper Length
Zipper is one of the common item in garments industry. Zipper teeth are usually made of
brass, aluminum, plastic or nylon which do not shrink when washed. Therefore, the zipper
tapes must be made of materials which do not shrink when washed otherwise the shrinkage
will make the zipper fail to function. In most cases, the zipper tapes are made of nylon or
polyester which do not shrink and are colorfast.
Zipper Length calculation for Garments

Zipper measurement calculation is the most important part for garments merchandiser. So,
garments merchandiser should more careful to calculate zipper measurement for bulk
production. However, zipper calculation is very easy but sometimes it becomes a matter of
big trouble for us. Zipper depends on fabrics and zipper properties. So, we need to take
some idea about the body fabric shrinkage and zipper tape. Today we will discuss about the
Page front
| 52 long zipper of sweat shirt and hoodies or as like that.
Zipper Calculation:
Let’s check out, how to find out zipper measurement by using formulas;
 If the garments body length measure from HPS, then

Formula: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) - (2 to 3 %)
Suppose, a sweat shirt has body length 70 cm, front neck drop 7 cm and back neck
drop is - 3 cm, now find out the zipper length?
Solution: Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) - 2 to 3%

= 70 - (7 + 3) - 2%
= 58.8 cm = 58.5 cm
Finally, we got the result, we need zipper length 58.5 cm
 If the garments body length measure from CB, then formula will be;
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %)
Suppose, a hoodie has body length 67 cm, front neck drop 6 cm. Now find out the
zipper length?
Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2 %

= (67 - 6) - 2%
= 59.78 cm = 59.5 cm
Finally, we have got the result, we will use zipper length 59.5 cm
 If the garments have high neck and zipper goes up to high neck drop from
Page | 53 bottom.
Formula: (Body length - Front neck drop) - (2 to 3 %) + Height of high neck
Suppose, A hoodie garments has body length 68 cm, front neck drop 6 cm, height of
high neck 5 cm. Now find out the zipper length?
Solution: (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2 % + Height high neck
= (68 - 6) - 2% + 5
= 65.76 cm = 65.50 cm
CM Calculation for Knit Garments
In apparel industry, cost of making (CM) is an important factor for garment
merchandisers. As its importance in garments industry, every merchandiser should
know the actual calculation method of it. Otherwise, factory may fall in huge loss.
CM Calculation for Knit Garments
Full abbreviation of CM is Cost of Manufacture. In garments industries, CM means

cost of manufacturing for 12 garments. We must focus in below information to
calculate CM (cost of manufacturing)-
 Total monthly expenditure (electricity bill, rent, water bill, transportation,

commercial cost, worker & stuff wages etc.) of the factory.
 Total running machine of the following month
 Total no of machine quantity to complete the layout of mentioned order items.
 Daily (8 hours/day) production target of the mention order items (excluding

alter & reject).
 Total working days of the following month.

 Dollar conversation rate (if expenditure amount is rather then US dollar)
Suppose,
 Total monthly factory expense- 70,00,000 BDT
Page | 54 Total running machine of the following month is - 180 machines
 Total working days of the following month- 26 days
 Daily factory expense: 70,00,000 / 26 = 269,230.77 BDT (Formula: total month

factory expenses / total working days of the following month)
 Daily expense of 1 machine: 269,230.77 / 180 = 1495.73 BDT (Formula: daily

factory expense / total running machine of the following month )
 Total machine quantity to complete the layout - 18 machines
 Daily cost of the mention order item's layout: 18 X 1495.73 = 26,923 BDT
(Formula: machine quantity to complete layout X daily expenditure for 1
machine )
 Hourly production quantity of following mention order layout - 200 pcs
 Normal daily working hours- 8 hours
 So, daily production of the following layout: 200 X 8 = 1600 pcs (Formula:
hourly production of the layout X daily working hours )
 Cost of Manufacture for 1 pcs: 26,923 / 1600 = 16.83 BDT (Formula: daily cost
of the layout / daily production of the layout )
 So, CM (Cost of Manufacture for 12 garments ): 16.83 X 12 = 202 BDT (Formula:

manufacturing cost for 1 pcs X 12 )
 Dollar conversion rate: 1USD = 78 BDT
 So, CM (Cost of Manufacture for 12 garments ): 202 / 78 = US $2.5897
 Need to add 20-25% profit. So, after 20% added: $ 2.5897 + 0.5179 = 3.11 $ US
 So, Final CM = $ 3.11 US
CM (Cost of Making):
Formula: Overhead machine cost X require machine / production quantity
= [{ monthly factory expenditure of following month / (total working days of
the month X total running machine of the following month) X (Number of machine to
complete the layout / Production quantity of the following layout) }]
= [{70,00,000 / (26 X 180) X 18) / 1800)}] X 12
= [{1495.73 X 18 / 1800}] X 12
= 14.96 X 12
= 179.49
= $2.30 /dzn [ 1$ = 78 BDT]
Page | 55
Another Simple Example of CM (Cost of Manufacture):

After starting the new salary of Bangladesh, we calculate the CM of any items
consider the overhead sewing machine cost of 1200 BDT to 1400 BDT per day. For
compliance factory we calculate per day overhead sewing machine cost of 1800 BDT
to 2100 BDT.
Q. Suppose, A compliance factory per day overhead of sewing machine is 2100 BDT.
Total machine quantity to complete the layout- 18 machines. Daily production comes
from one existing layout- 1800 pcs. Dollar conversion rate is 1$ = 78 BDT. Now find
out the CM for 12 pcs garments?
Solution:
CM cost = Overhead of sewing machine cost X total require machine to complete the
layout / production quantity X 12
= 2100 X 18 / 1800 X 12
= 21 X 12
= 252 BDT
= $ 3.23 / dzn [ 1$ = 78 BDT ]
Carton Consumption and Pricing
Carton is a very important factor in readymade garments industry. Every textile
engineer (merchandiser) should have clear and brief idea about it. Although, many
garments merchandisers not have correct idea about carton consumption. Basically
carton box is made by ply board. Ply board can be 3 ply, 5 ply or 7 ply. It’s needed to
deliver the finished goods to buyer without any damages. Buyer may complain if
there is any damage in the goods during transportation because of bag quality carton
box. At present, buyer ask to do busting test of carton box to ensure the quality of
carton box. For kind information, every carton boxes should have minimum two ply
boards to insure product security.
Carton Consumption and Pricing
In terms of carton consumption means “consumption of ply board”. We know that,

carton box is made by using ply board. Before started to calculating ply board
consumption or carton consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm the
below information:
· Length of the carton box
· Width of the carton box
Page | 56
· Height of the carton box
By using the below formula, a garment merchandiser can easily calculate ply board
consumption or carton consumption in apparel industry. Let’s see the below
equation with example;
Carton Consumption:
Formula of CBM (Cubic Meter): Length X Width X Height / 10, 00,000
Formula of carton measurement in square: (Length + Width + Wastage) X (Width +

Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X Carton quantity
Formula of carton consumption and costing: {(Length + Width) X (Width + Height)} X

2 + Wastage percentage
Q.1: Suppose, a carton has Length 58 cm, Width 35 cm & Height 40 cm, total carton
200 pcs. Now find out the cargo measurement for 200 cartons?
Solution: Length X Width X Height / 10, 00,000 X Carton Qty

= 58 X 35 X 40 /10, 00,000 X 200
= 16.24 CBM
Q.2: Suppose, a carton has 5 ply, Length 60 cm, Width 45 cm, Height 50 cm, total
carton qty 150 pcs. Now find out the carton measurement in square meter?
Solution: (Length + Width + Wastage) X (Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X

Carton qty
= (60 + 45 + 5) X (45 + 50 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X 150
= 110 X 100 X 2 / 10,000 X 150
= 330 square meter
Page (Note:
| 57 If you don't want to add wastage, then avoid wastage value. For safety
purpose, should be add wastage)
Q.3: Suppose, a 5 ply carton's per square (100 X 100) meter's rate is USD 0.85. Carton
Length is 58 cm, Width 26 cm, Height 40 cm. Now find out the carton price?
Suppose: (Length + Width + Wastage) X (Width + Height + Wastage) X 2 / 10,000 X

Price
= (58 + 26 + 5) X (26 + 40 + 5) X 2 /10,000 X $ 0.85
= 89 X 71 X 2 / 10,000 X $ 0.85
= $1.074 / per pcs
Q.4: Suppose, a 7 ply carton Length is 58 cm (0.58 meter), Width 35 cm (0.35 meter),
Height 40 cm (0.40 meter), price $0.90 per square. Now find the price per carton?
Suppose: {(Length + Width) X (Width + Height)} X 2 + Wastage Percentage

= {(0.58 + 0.35) X (0.35 + 0.40)} X 2 + 5% [1 cm = 1/100 meter]
= {0.93 X 0.75} X 2 + 5%
= 1.4675 square meter
= 1.4675 X $0.90 [1 square meter = $0.90]
= $1.320/ carton
Types of Fabric Consumption for Knit
In apparel industry, fabric consumption is the common term for a garments
merchandiser. In this industry, most of the time profit or loss depends on the total
consumption of fabric in an order. So, bulk fabric consumption must be calculated
correctly before start bulk cutting of an order. For making profit from an order, we
have to reduce fabric wastage in bulk and make an accurate consumption of an
order. As we know, fabric is one of the most important part in garments costing and
represent almost 70% of total product manufacturing cost.
Basic information relevant to consumption
Page | 581. Measurement with technical spec.
2. Style description
3. Fabrics description
4. Fabrics width / weight
5. Washing shrinkage if any
What Is Consumption?
In the garments trade, consumption means quality of raw materials with a view to
determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much
fabric, sewing thread, zipper, button and other accessories are required to produce a
garment up to the exporting is called consumption.
Internationally fabrics having five types of width as in: 35 inch – 45 inch – 50 inch –
55 inch – 60 inch. Generally, it is visible that after consumption of fabrics, we have to
perform some washing brushing or finishing treatment to develop fabric quantity.
In the circumstances stated during fabric consumption we should consume fabric

excluding 1-2 inch from the fabric width. Otherwise in some cases buyer or factory
authority may encounter a great loss or may face difficulties. Consumption formula
and other rules are shown below. Remember that if consumption of a garment of
different sizes is required at a time, we have to figure out a consumption of the one
size making an average of all sizes for shortening the time consumption.
Types of Consumption Calculation System:
The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption.
Whatever quantity of fabric is required to produce a garment. We can know it through
marker planning and mathematical system. We can calculate and determine the
consumption of fabric by the following two systems:
1. Marker planning system
2. Mathematical system
Marker planning system:
In the system mentioned here studying the range of size, following six pcs of six size
can be stored out from size range. As in XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL. Besides these we can
choose three pcs of three size or twelve pcs of twelve size for our convenience. It
Page depends
| 59 on our IQ and the size range, thereafter paper pattern can be made by
grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet. Having made the paper
pattern, it should have to lay each parts of the paper pattern on a marker paper of
similar fabric width. After marking the paper pattern if we measure marker paper to
length wise, we will find an aggregate consumption of six pieces of garment. If the
aggregate is divided by six, we will find a consumption of one-piece garment. As
such we will find a consumption of one dozen garments from the above system
calculations. You can check bellow post for your easy understand:
Mathematical system:
Whatever is the fabric consumption of a garment or whatever quantity of fabric is

required to produce a garment is measured by mathematical system. Mathematical
system is system of approximate estimation. Consumption of a sample garment or
consumption as per measurement sheet is calculated mathematically by measuring
the area of length and width of each parts of each pcs of garment.
Prepare Of Price Quotation for Buyers
Prepare of price quotation is the most important part in apparel industry. It’s very
important for both buyer and seller. Manufacturer or exporter should be more careful,
when they are going to apply the price quotation of the product. Here manufacturers
of products are the seller of the products. Price quotation is the business proposal
which is made by seller for the interested buyer who wants to buy fashionable goods
as specific prices for certain terms and conditions. Manufacturer of the products or
sellers always likes to offer better opportunity for his buyer. Most important, the
quotation letter should contain all the information which is required for
understanding all the points of dealing.
For price quotation letter, few important point should be follow before apply the letter
of price quotation for garments products. They are-
 Should concern type of quotation.
 The quality of product offered for sale
 Per unit selling price of the garments products.
 Total value of the products
 Payment mode like cash or credit, cash discount (penalty) or any other
allowances
 Shipment mode like Sea, Air or Sea-air & TOD (Time of delivery), Place
 Labeling & packing details
 Full instruction of insurance

Page | 60 List of country destination and documentation details
In additional, there may be lots of points should be maintained in the price quotation
of garments products. Actually, additional requirement depends on buyer
requirement. At last, we will see a simple sample format of price quotation letter.
An introductory sample letter to a prospective buyer:
"Dear Jon,
XYZ Apparels Ltd. Manufactures a wide variety of ready-made garments and is
already exporting to major buyers of the USA, Canada, UK, France and Germany.
We are interested in expanding our trade in Japan and believe that your company
already imports the line of products that we produce.
We are enclosing a copy of our brochure and price list for examination at your
convenience and we would be pleased to forward samples of any item of garment
that may be interest to you.
Thanking you and looking forward to your positive response.
Best regards
Name
Marketing Manager / Merchandiser”
As we know, price quotation is the most important factor in apparel industry for
merchandiser. Price quotation is the mutual agreement between buyer and
manufacture or seller. There are many types of quotation considered for exporting
products during price quotation. Those are in the following:
Page | 61 LOCO: The lowest quotation of price is called LOCO. It means on the spot.
When buyer will carry his product or goods from seller or manufacture factory
to own factory or warehouse. In this case, all carrying cost will be bearded by
the buyer.
 FAS: Means Free Along Side Ship. It determines that seller or manufacture will
bear the carrying cost from his warehouse to the ship and rest of the
destination cost will bear buyer. That means buyer will provide the expenses
from ship loading to the buyer warehouse.
 FOW: FOW means Free on Wagon. It determines that manufacture or seller will
bear carrying cost from his warehouse to the nearest railway station and rest
of the carrying cost will bear by the buyer.
 CIFE: Full meaning of CIFF is Cost, Insurance, Freight and Exchange.

Manufacturing cost, insurance charge, carrying cost and exchange cost will be
included in price quotation of the product.
 CWO: It means Cash with Order. It determines that buyer will send money
along with the order. In this case, order will not be executed without receiving
the order.
 COD: Means Cash On delivery which is determine that buyer will pay cash
after receiving the desired order goods to the desired destination.
 FOR: It means Free on Rail. It determines that the seller or manufacture will
bear all expenses from his own warehouse to the railway station. Also seller or
manufacture will bear the loading cost and rest of the cost will bear by the
buyer.
In apparel industry, there are mainly four systems of calculation for price quotation
which are as under:
1. FOB (Free on Board)
2. CFR / C & F (Cost of Freight)
3. CIF (Cost, Insurance & Freight)
4. CMT (Cut make and trims)
1. FOB (Free On Board):

FOB means ‘free on board’. Now most of the garments industry price quoted on FOB.
It determines that seller or manufacture will bear all costs which required reaching
the goods from his own warehouse to the board of ship at the port of shipment. That
means manufacture or seller will include the cost of fabric, accessories, cost of
making, overhead, C&F and transportation cost (from factory warehouse to shipment
Page port)
| 62 for making the price of product quotation. Here also seller will be bearded
product loading expenses. Exporter does not bear the cost of freight of ship or air. It
is buyer (importer) who himself bears the freight of ship or air.
2. C&F (Cost of Freight):

CFR / C & F means ‘Cost of Freight’. That means
FOB (Cost) + Freight = C & F
In the case ship or air freight is carried by the exporter while quoting price, the
exporter quotes price a bit higher than FOB. The whole responsibility including the
sending of goods to the selected port of the importer is shouldered by the exporter
ship or air. Freight may vary from place to place and shippers to shippers. Also note
that, seller will not bear the insurance cost in this quotation.
3. CIF (Cost Insurance & Freight):

CIF means cost insurance & freight. In this case in additional to the bearing of freight
the cost of insurance is also born by the exporter or manufacture. The exporter, while
quoting CIF price, quotes much higher than C&F value. That means
C&F + insurance = CIF
Normally we can add 1-2% insurance charge with CIF price.
4. CMT (Cut Make and Trims)

CMT means ‘Cut make and trims’. Making cost, accessories and trimmings cost of
garments has included in the quotes of garments which is provided by seller or
manufacturer. In this case, buyer provides all the required raw materials to the
manufacturer and exporter gets only the making cost, accessories and trimming cost
of the product.
During the fixation of FOB price following notes are to be followed carefully:
 Cost of fabric/Doz. Garments (Woven/Knit) or cost of yarn /Doz. Garments (in
case of sweater)
 Cost of accessories / Doz. Garments
 Cost of transportation from factory to sea port or airport

Page | 63
 Clearing and forwarding cost
 Overhead cost
 Commission/Profit
The notes above are applicable in case of sending goods aboard on FOB basis.
How to Calculate Carton CBM & CBF
In garments sector, it’s a known term for all merchandiser. Freight forwarder charges
the freight cost on the basis of CBM. CBM means cubic meter. To find out accurate
CBM, it will help for merchandiser to reduce shipping cost. When cargo has FCL (Full
container Load) then we have to pay the freight charge in full container load basis, if
the cargo has LCL (Less container Load) then we have to pay the freight charge in
less container load basis.
Calculate carton CBM & CBF for Garments
Before starting the CBM, we should find the below information at first;
 Carton length;
 Carton width;
 Carton height;
 And carton quantity for an order;

We need to use centimeter to find out the CBM. If we found Length, Width and height
in 'Inch' then we need to convert into "centimeter" by multiplying 2.54 (we know 1
inch = 2.54 cm).
Example of CBM Calculation with Formula:
Formula: Length (cm) X Width (cm) X Height (cm) / 10, 00,000
Suppose, A carton have length 22.845 inches, width 15.75 inches and height 15.75
inches. Now find out the CBM for 150 cartons?
Solution:
 Length 22.845 inches = So, 22.845 X 2.54 = 58 cm [ 1 inch = 2.54 cm]
 Width 15.75 inches = So, 15.75 X 2.54 = 40 cm
Page | 64 Height 15.75 inches = So, 15.75 X 2.54 = 40 cm

Formula: Length X Width X Height / 10, 00,000 X 150 [1 CBM = 10, 00,000 square
cm]
= 58 X 40 X 40 /10, 00,000 X 150

= 13.92 CBM
Finally we know that, we need 13.92 CBM cargo for 150 cartons.
Example of CBF (Cubic Feet) Calculation with Formula:
Formula: Length (inch) X Width (inch) X Height (inch) / 1728
Suppose, carton have length is 14 inches, width 12 inches and height 8 inches. Total
quantity 200 pcs. Now, find out the total CBF (cubic feet)?
Solution:
Formula: Length (inch) X Width (inch) X Height (inch) / 1728 X carton qty
= 14" X 12" X 8" / 1728 X 200 [1 CBF = 1728 square inches]
= 1344 / 1728 X 200
= 155.55 CBF
Finally, we have found the result, we need 155.55 CBF for 200 cartons.
Merchandiser Role between Buyer & Seller
A garments merchandiser is the key person in ready-made garments industry. Where
merchandiser plays an important role from its order receiving to shipment.
Merchandiser is the bridge between the industry and the buyer. Merchandiser is the
responsible person to make the product and export the goods on time. So, he has to
look after the raw materials which are required to find the goods, making the
garments, finishing the goods, documentation and finally shipping the goods. The
main job of a merchandiser is to co-ordinate with the entire department in the office
(like stores, cutting, production, finishing etc.) as well as the buyers.
 Merchandiser’s role is to build up relationship with buyers and acts as a seller

Page | 65 Merchandiser plays a vital role in his organization in a sense that the bears
more responsibility than others in regards of order execution
 He represents factory as a buyer
 He represents buyer as a seller
 He inspects quality as buyer from buyers’ point of view
 He negotiates a price for the sellers
 He looks at the deal from seller’s point of view
 He looks after the business so as to develop more in future
 He tries to offer the deal more competitive by not compromising the quality
 His object is to satisfy the buyer to progress more in future business
 His aim is to impress the buyer by means of:

**Right product
**Right quality
**Right quantity
**Right time
**Undamaged condition
Job Description and Job Analysis of Merchandisers and Merchandising Department
 To prepare price quotation of different inquiry letters as per buyers’

requirements
 To develop samples as per buyers’ requirements
 To submit samples as per buyers’ requirements
 To negotiate price with buyers
 To confirm price with buyers
 To receive purchase order sheet from buyers
 To prepare and issue pro-forma invoice for buyers in order that buyer can
open master L/C
 To receive master or export L/C from buyers

 To source and select garment factory for bulk production
 To make production plan for execution of purchase orders
 To hand over purchase order file to the selected factory, related sections and
persons.
Page | 66
 To collect the color swatch and trims & accessories from buyers and develop
them from vendors or from own units
 To communicate buyers with all updates about latest production process and
developments
 To ensure goods delivery on time with buyers
 To take approval from buyers for style sample, fit sample, pre-production
sample and accessories sample for bulk production
 To prepare yarn, finished fabric and accessories booking order sheets for bulk
production and distribute to related sections and related persons
 To prepare costing break down sheet and put up the respective buyers’ order
files
 To follow up, monitor and coordinate the purchase order until shipment
 To receive payment of L/C against shipment of goods from buyers
 To earn profit by exporting garments from abroad
 Merchandisers has to report their activities to the managing director of their

respective
Commonly Used Knit Fabrics for Garments
Actually knitting fabric can be made by hand or by using a machine. Presently,
knitting machine used more than hand knitting. There are variety of knitted fabrics
available in the market. In apparel industry, knitted fabrics are used for producing
knitted garments like T-Shirt, Polo shirt, Sweater, Sweatshirt, children’s wear etc. For
producing different type of knit fabrics, mills used different type of construction &
specification. We already discussed about basic structure of knit fabrics.
Now we will discuss the following list of names of knit fabrics which are commonly
used to produce knit garments:
1. Plain/ single/ jersey knit
2. Pique knit / Lacoste knit
3. Interlock knit
4. Rib knit
5. Terry knit
Page | 676. Fleece knit

7. Jacquard knit
8. Yarn dyed stripe knit
9. Feeder stripe knit
10. Engineered stripe knit
Plain / Single / Jersey knit:
People call it jersey knit. A weft knit process producing a plain, flat-surfaced knitted
fabric designed with a separate face and back. A single-faced knitted fabric designed
by an interlinking of stitches in the same direction on the face and a series of
semicircular loops produced on the reverse or back. Even-patterned loops are
produced in the lengthwise direction on the face of the fabric and even patterned,
wavy loops in the crosswise direction on the reverse. Jersey knit process utilizes
both single and double yarn construction.
Pique Knit:
Pique Knit fabric manufacturing by weft technique. Basically, Pique fabrics used for
Men’s polo shirt & women’s polo shirt. It’s also used for manufacturing sportswear.
Interlock stitch knit:

A weft knit process producing a compound fabric. Two separate 1x1 rib fabrics are
interlocked or inter knitted to form one cloth. The two rib course are defined as one
interlock course, since together they produce one stitch in every wale. Interlock
stitch knit process utilizes single yarns in the knitting process. Same appearance on
face and back and double faced. When needle heads are facing with each other, then
it is called interlock gating, that means interlock fabric.
RIB knit:
A weft knit process producing a double faced fabric. Rib knit is made with two sets of
needles producing alternate plain and purl stitches that join in opposite directions in
the lengthwise direction and produce separate vertical ribs on both sides of the
fabric. Rib knit process produces high and low areas with stitches alternating up and
over and down and under creating a corrugated effect. There are 1 by 1 rib, 2 by 2
ribs, 3 by 1 rib, and 5 by 2 ribs and so on. You count the number of ribs in front and
on back to determine what it is.
Page | 68
Terry knit:
A woven or knit uncut loop structure produced as single faced with loop formation
on face and back. Size, shape and density of loop formation may vary. It looks like
terry towel.
Fleece knit:
One side looks like jersey, the other side heavily brushed. Also note that, the inside
of fleece fabrics brush can be light or heavy, buyer will confirm their requirement of
brush. Fleece fabric’s contraction can be 100% cotton, 80% cotton 20% poly etc. (As
per buyer requirement). Actually buyer will confirm which contraction used to make
the fabric. Also note that, normally fleece fabric GSM is higher, than the normal other
knitting fabrics. Please note when knitted fabrics are finished by the mill, it is usually
rolled on a tube with tension.
Therefore, when you unroll the fabric on the cutting table, you should not apply the
marker on and cut it right away, you should let it relax for a few hours, or preferably
over night to check if the length has become shorter when the tension is gone. If may
surprise you that the length or the width or both have shrunk 5 to 7% on the cutting
table. Just imagine, if you cut the fabrics without relaxing then you many end up
getting your garments undersized. The degree of such shrinkage is contingent on the
tension it was given prior.
Jacquard knit:
Jacquard knit is a system of producing a patterned knit fabric combining the
jacquard system. The system is the individual control of the selection of the needles
to produce the design or pattern utilizing.
 Punch cards or programmed techniques similar to woven Jacquard fabric
 Electronic or electromagnetic devices

 Can be produced by warp or weft type method of knitting fabric
 Produces single or multicolored designs and patterns
 Designed with a flat or raised surface

Page | 69 Can be hard finished or smooth texture or brushed for napped finish
 Produces jacquard blister knit, jacquard jersey knit and jersey knit variations,
jacquard rib knit and rib knit variations.
Yarn dyed stripe knit:

Generally, we collect the yarn from yarn supplier or spinning mills then we produce
the fabric from grey yarn that is called grey fabric. After that, we dye the fabric in any
color as per buyer requirement. But after collecting the yarn from yarn supplier or
spinning mills & send the yarn for dying purpose as per buyer requirement color. On
the other hand, we can collect direct dyed yarn from spinning mill. That means we
dyed the yarn before produce the knit fabric that is called yarn dyed fabrics.
In making color knitted fabrics, we usually would use the following methods to color
them:
 Piece dye: for solid colors
 Yarn dye: for horizontal stripes
 Printing: for printed designs

For piece dyed solid colors and prints, the process of manufacture is pretty much the
same as woven fabrics. However, on yarn dyed stripes it is important we know the
following:
Feeder stripe knit:

This means you feed the knitting machine with yarn of different colors and let the
machine knit as knitting solid color fabrics. The knitting machine has a capability for
108 cones of yarn. Now you have inserted 8 cones of black yarn in to it, with the
balance 100 cones white yarn. After getting start knitting you will find out that, there
is a black horizontal stripe within 2”.
From the above example you can understand that within the 108 spaces, you have
inserted 8 cones of black color yarn to form a horizontal stripe design that you have
worked out. You can also see that the size of repeat is about 2”. If this is a fine yarn
used, it could be smaller than 2”, if it is a thick yarn used, it can be bigger than 2”.
There is no limit about the number of colors you can use within the 2” repeat. For
example, you can use 108 different colors if you wish. There are knitting machines of
more than 108 cones and machines of less than 108 cones. So, the 2” repeat is a little
flexible.
Page | 70
Engineered stripe knit:
When the size of the repeat of the stripe you need is bigger that 2” it is beyond the
feeder stripe method can do and you will have to use “Engineered stripe” method to
make this knitted fabric. In this engineered stripe method, the machine is set to
change threads at certain time to from a big repeat. This way the repeat can be of
almost any size. However, the price of engineered striped fabric is substantially
higher than the normal stripe price. Therefore, as garment merchandisers, when we
get the artwork from buyer & artwork showing, for example, a 2-3/4” repeat, we
should check with the knitting mill to find out how close we can get the repeat to 2-
3/4”, or check with the buyer if they could let you shrink it down from 2- ¾“to 2
½“before you choice to engineered stripe method. However, if the repeat given in the
artwork is 14” and buyer don’t want to change it in any way, for example, then you
should use engineered stripe method without any choice.
Sea Freight Calculation System For Garments
Though almost garment orders are placed by buyers on FOB (Free On Board) basis, the
buyers to pay freight at the shipping destination, it is still necessary for the agent to know
how to calculate sea freight and air freight the merchandise costs per Doz. If you are
required to sell on CIF (Cost Insurance & Freight) basis, (the shipper or agency to prepay
freight at the shipping port) you will need to calculate the freight accurately for your own
costing. There are two systems use for calculating freight cost. They are-
1. Sea Freight
2. Air Freight
Sea freight:
Sea freight is generally varied based on volume how much per CBM (Cubic meter) very
rarely by weight as “density cargo”. In fact, ANRRA (Asia North American Eastbound Rate
Agreement) has designed the freight tariff based on the usual value of the type of goods,
then the usual weight of them, taking into consideration that for low value merchandise they
should give a low freight rate in order to make it possible for the importers to buy goods
overseas. However, for high value merchandise, they should charge a high freight rate as it
is believed that the buyer can afford to pay more on freight. They have designed the freight
tariff in such a way that everybody can do business and there is sufficient profit for the
shipping lines. The following is an example to show you the idea:
Page XYZ
| 71 Furniture: (Low value goods)
USD 2975.00 for a 40 feet container to East Coast (USA)

Garments (not silk) (Medium value goods)
USD 5295.00 for a 40 feet container to East coast (USA)
Silk Garments (High value goods)
USD 9355.00 for a 40 feet container to East coast (USA)
From the above you will see that for the same 40 feet container the shipping line
change very different rates.
Nowadays, it is very common to ship goods by containers and pay the freight for the
whole container, even if you sometime do not have the exact volume of merchandise
to fill up the whole container. The reason of this is:
Suppose, the shipping line charges US 160 per CBM if you ship goods by the CBM as
loose cargo. But, if you ship goods by the container, they charge you about US 350
per 40 feet container (these are approximate rate for shipment from the South East to
USA port, but they vary from each of the South East countries and East of West
coasts of the United States). However, the above example can give you the general
relationship between the rates of loose cargo, 20 feet and 40 feet containers, the
following will show this point more clearly:
Note: Figures used in example are not the exact freight rates as they change from
time to time, but this is the concept commonly used.
a. A 20 Feet Container Has The Following Inside Measurement:
Length: 228” x Width: 84” x Height: 94”
228” x 84” x 94” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54 cm)
579.12 cm X 213.36 cm X 238.76 cm by dividing 100 (we know 1m = 100 cm)
5.7912 m X 2.1336 m X 2.3876 m = 29.50 CBMS
If you want to more about CBM calculation, then check the below article;
Page | 72
How to calculate carton CBM & CBF?
However, a 20 feet container has a capacity of 29.5 CBM, but when you ship goods
packed in cartons or wooden crates, it can only hold about 27 CBM as there will be
gaps or spaces wasted. If the rate of a 20 feet container is $3700, then your average
rate per CBM is about $137 (Total container cost / Maximum hold CBM in container =
$3700 / 27). A 20 feet container which means 20’ x 7’ x 8’ but above is the inside
dimension.
b. A 40 Feet Container Has The Following Inside Measurements:
Length: 474” x Width: 84” x Height: 94”
474” x 84” x 94” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54 cm)
1203.96cm X 213.36cm X 238.76cm by dividing 100 (we know 1m = 100 cm)
12.0396m X 2.1336m X 2.3876m = 61.33 CBMS
40 feet container which means 40’ x 7’ x 8’, but above is the inside dimension
Therefore, a 40 feet container cartons or wooden creates, it will hold only about 54
CBM. If the rate of the 40 feet container is $5500 then the average rate per CBM is
about $102 (Total container cost / Maximum hold CBM in container = $5500 / 54).
It is noted that there is a bigger container than the 40 feet high cube. The inside
measurements are:
Length: 474” x Width: 84” x Height: 106” (12” higher)
474” x 84” x 106” by multiplying 2.54 (as we know 1” = 2.54cm)
1203.96cm X 213.36cm X 269.24cm by dividing 100 (1m = 100cm)
12.0396m X 2.1336m X 2.6924m = 69.16 CBMS
40 feet Hi-cube container which means 40’ x 7’ x 9,’ but above is inside dimension.
A 40 feet Hi-cube container is about 12% higher than a 40 feet regular container, and
the cost of a 40 feet Hi-cube is about 10 to 12% higher, so the rate per CBM is about
the same. There is very little advantage in using a 40 feet Hi-cube as the rate per CBM
is concerned. However, there is great advantage when you have the amount of cargo
which exceeds the capacity of a 40 feet container only by 5 to 8 CBM.
Page | 73
c. If You Ship Goods As Loose Cargo, The Rate Is About $160 / CBM:
From the above you will see that it is most convenient to use 40 feet containers if at
all possible. However, it is not always possible for the buyers to buy goods with the
quantity adjusted to fill the containers. But if the quantity ordered is so big that it
take a few 40 feet containers to ship at different time, then the shipper should plan
the shipments carefully so that the right amount of goods is shipped each time to fill
a 40 feet container, because the saving in using 40 feet container is so big that it is
worth your time and effort to work to achieve it for your buyer.
Example: one Doz. of Men’s stand up collar shirt is about 0.037 CBM.
1. If you ship this shirt as loose cargo,
0.037 x 160 = $ 5.92/Doz. sea freight
2. If you ship this shirt in a 20 feet container (full)
0.037 x 137 = $ 5.069 / Doz. sea freight
3. If you ship this shirt in a 40 feet container, or a 40 feet Hi-cubic container (full)
0.037 x 102 = $ 3.774 / Doz. sea freight
It is very clear to the above, the good pain of shipping can save your customer a
great deal of money.
As most shippers are shipping goods by the container, we may form an opinion that
as long as we pay for the whole container we may fill up the container regardless of
the weight of the merchandise. However, this is not true, the usual weight limits of
the containers are as follows:
 20 feet container weight limit: 16,300 kg
 40 feet container weight limit: 19,500 kg

Actually the weight mentioned above are weight limits as guidelines for you only. The
real limits are the following:
 20 feet container 18148 kg including the weight of the container
 40 or 45 feet container 25400 kg including the weight of the container

Page | 74
The following are the weights of the containers:
 20 feet steel: 1960 to 2350 kg
 40 feet steel: 3390 to 4190 kg
 40 feet aluminum: 2450 to 3050 kg
 45 feet aluminum / steel: 3925 to 4500 kg

Goods like ingot and dry cell batteries can easily exceed the limits. When you ship
this type of goods, you may fill the container half and reach the weight limit. For your
information, the weight limits are set not so much for the capacity of the ship, it is for
the loading and unloading equipment, and the road safety regulations (bridges also)
when the container gets ashore. If you ship very heavy goods as loose cargo
because the size of the shipment is very small, the shipping line will charge you by
weight or by volume whichever is higher.
Poly Bag Consumption and Costing
Poly bag is the most common and important item in apparel industry. Normally we
used different kinds of bag to pack the goods. We packed the garments with poly bag
before insert in a carton for shipment. In apparel industry, we use one poly for one
garment, we called it single poly and insert several single polys in a big poly bag, we
called it “blister poly”.
Poly bag calculation is important part for garments merchandiser. Commonly we

known as polythene. Poly bag has used to protect from dust or dirt, moisture. In
garments industries, maximum company has used those poly bag, material used PP
(polypropylene), PE (polyethylene), LDPE (low density polyethylene) & HDPE (high
density polyethylene) etc. Worldwide, gauge is used most system of counting poly
bag's thickness.
Before starting the poly bag consumption, a garments merchandiser should confirm
the following information at first;
 Poly bag length in inch.

 1/2 flap of poly bag (because flap is single layer & length, width of poly bag is
double layer)
 Poly bag width in inch
 Thickness of poly bag in gauge

Page | 75
 Number of print on the poly bag (print means text, logo, warning etc.)
 Polymer rate of per lbs. (pound) of the following poly bag (It may PP, PE or
LDPE etc.)
Formula: For 1,000 pcs poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge /
3300}
Q.1: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 29 cm, Half flap 5 cm, Width 26 cm & poly
thickness 160 gauge. Now find out weight of 1000 pcs poly bags?
Solution: Poly bags in KGs = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300}
= {(29 + 2.5) X 26 X 160 / 3300}
= {31.5 X 26 X 160 / 3300}
= 39.709 KGs for 1000 pcs

Note: We used half flap during calculation because flap is single layer & length, width
of poly bag is double layer.
Q.2: Suppose, per pcs poly weight is 0.0397 KGs, polymer price 1 lbs (pound) is
$0.35. Now find out the price of per pcs poly?
Solution: Per pcs poly weight X Polymer price

= 39.709 / 1000 X $0.35
= 0.0397 X 2.2 X $0.35 [1 kg = 2.2 lbs ]
= $0.03056 /pcs
Q.3: Suppose, Poly bags having length is 30 cm, half flap 5 cm, width 25 cm & poly
thickness 150 gauge, 1 lbs polymer price is $0.35. Now find out the cost 1 pcs poly
Page bag?
| 76
Solution:
Poly bag cost = {(Length + Half flap) X Width X Gauge / 3300 / 1000 X Price}
= {(30 + 2.5) X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
= {32.5 X 25 X 150 / 3300 / 1000 X $0.35}
= 0.0369 KGs X $0.35
= 0.0369 X 2.2 X $0.35 [1 kg = 2.2 lbs.]
= $0.0284 / pcs
Difference of Garments Marketing And Merchandising
Having produced garment products, marketing personnel start marketing first. They
introduce the products to the potential buyers and encourage and convince the
buyers to buy the products. If the buyers are interested, marketing personnel submit
their price and they take their positive consent with orders.
Where there marketing finished, merchandising is started. Marketing is limited up to

introduction of the products and its company to buyers but merchandising is limited
from purchase order receiving to shipment. After being finished marketing job,
marketing personnel introduce the buyers to the merchandisers. Merchandisers
receive purchase order, make plan, develop product line, monitor productions
process, ensure goods delivery on time, calculation consumption, prepare costing
sheet, put up the buyer’s order file. If there are no marketing personnel or if the
marketing personnel are no so qualified or skilled in marketing in that case
merchandising personnel make both marketing and merchandising to survive the
company.
What Is Garments Merchandising?

The “Garments Merchandising” is known to the persons specially involved in
garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. As
a noun merchandise means products that are bought and sold and as a verb
merchandise means to sell and buy products.
The term “Merchandising” may be defined as: A person who sells and buys the
goods, specifically for export purposes. Garments merchandising means taking
Page purchase
| 77 order from buyers, buying raw materials from vendors say fabrics and
accessories, producing garments from factories, maintaining required quality levels,
getting in touch with buyers with all updates, following up the production process
until shipment and exporting the garments within schedule time. Garments
merchandising means the technique of selling and buying garment related products
of a company in the best possible way. From the above definitions, we can say that a
person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge and
skills to perform his job successfully. The job itself is technical and general as well.
When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, he/she has to schedule the

following main functions to execute the export order perfectly on time.
 Yarn consumption calculations
 Fabric consumption calculations
 Accessories consumption calculations (e.g. sewing thread, label, button,

interlining, zipper, elastic, hang tag, poly, carton etc.)
 Sourcing of yarns
 Sourcing of fabrics
 Sourcing of accessories
 Possible date of arrival of fabrics and accessories in the garments factory
 Costing
 Garments production planning
 Pre-shipment inspection schedule
 Shipping documents
All the main functions, mentioned above are important but the locating of fabric &
accessories are most important as because there are many technical parameters
involved in specification in this area. In most collection of fabric for the garments to
be made is a major problem. To secure a fabric we should clearly specify the
technical specification of the fabric during placing a fabric supply order.
Button Linear and Counting For Garments
Button is one of the common accessories in apparel industry. Also most important
part to optimize button measurement correctly for garment merchandisers. As its
importance in readymade garments, improper button size can turn the garments into
Page faulty
| 78 garments.
What Is Ligne?
Ligne means “Line” which became from French word that became the standard
reference used by German button manufacturers in the early eighteenth century.
Ligne is shortened with letter of “L” which is the internationally recognized standard.
To measure diameter of buttons, usually we use liner unit (1/40 inch). Available
button sizes are: 13L, 14L, 15L, 16L, 17L, 18L, 20L, 22L, 24L, 26L, 27L, 28L, 30L, 32L,
36L, 40L, 42L, 44L, 46L, 48L, 54L, 60L.
Button Linear and counting for garments
To find out the button line, we should to know below measurement for easy
understand:
 1 inches = 40 ligne = 2.54 cm = 25.4 mm
 1 Ligne = 0.635 mm
 1 Dozen = 12 pcs
 12 Dozens = 1 Gross
 12 Gross = 1 GG
 1 GG = 1728 pcs
Let's find out the button line/ligne with simple example:
Formula: Button ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or Button Dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
Q.1: Suppose, Button length (dia) is 8 mm, now figure out the button ligne for 8mm?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button Dia in mm / 0.635
= 8 / 0.635
= 12.59 ligne = 12 L [L = Ligne]
Q.2: Find out the button ligne for 12mm button dia?
Solution:
Button Ligne = Button dia in mm X 1 / 0.635
= 12 X 1 / 0.635
= 18.897 ligne
= 18 L [L = Ligne]
Q.3: Shirt has 6 buttons, order quantity total 4320 pcs. Now find out total button
quantity in GG?
Page Solution:
| 79
Button quantity in GG = per shirt button X total quanty / 1728
= 6 X 4320 / 1728 [ 1 GG = 1728 pcs ]
= 15 GG
Note: We need to additional quantity (minimum 5%) in case of shortage due to

defective or damage in bulk production.
Basic Structure Of Knit Fabrics

Knitted fabrics are an alternative to the woven or loom fabrics. These fabrics are
stretchable, soft and quick to recover from wrinkles, unlike, woven fabrics knitted
fabrics would not become stiff or board even if you make it heavy. All knitted fabrics
(except warp knit) are stretchable in both directions horizontal and vertical, but more
stretchable horizontally. Knit fabric structures are formed through the process of
interlocking loops or forming loops with one or more yarn in preceding and
succeeding rows, knit fabrics are produced by hand or on a variety of knitting
machines with one or more needles of different types.
Variation of knit fabrics may be achieved by adding deleting or combining any one or
more of the following:
 Content of fiber – natural, man-made, blend or combination
 Type of fiber – filament or staple
 Size or denier of yarn – fine, lofted or bulked
 Type of yarn – twisted, textured, novelty or specialty
 Color of yarn – one color or multi colored
 Type and capability of knitting machines
 Attachments used on knitting machines
 Type and quality of needles
 Size, thickness and length of needles
 Formation of needles – inoperative or selectively operative

 Number and spacing of needle sets
 Size of stitches
 Formation and pattern of stitches

Page | 80 Number or threading of guide bars
 Finishing processes applied to yarn or finished goods

Any variation of the above will affect the appearance, texture, performance
expectation and weight of the fabric.
Knit fabrics are classified and named with regard to the
 Structure of fabrics
 Method or type of production or construction
 Type of machine used for its construction
 Number of guide bars on a machine

According to the basic structure of knit fabrics, knit fabrics are classified into two
categories:
A. Warp knit fabric and
B. Weft knit fabric
A. Warp Knit Fabrics:
This is a special kind of knit fabric which has warp treads (but no weft threads). This
fabric has little or no stretch ability like woven fabric. It is called knit, because it is
constructed by needles like other knits fabric and it has no weft threads. It feels like
woven fabric and wears like woven fabric, warp knit fabrics are produced by a
system of interlocking loops in a length wise direction. Fabric is produced by several
parallel yarns that form one stitch for each yarn in each course. Each stitch in a
course is made by different yarn. All the needles move up to at the same time to
make the stitch. The stitches are produced in each course simultaneously. Warp knit
structures as following kinds:
 Milanese knit
 Raschel knit
 Ketten raschel knit
 Tricot knit
Milanese knit: Milanese knit fabric is more expensive than tricot fabric. It’s also
stronger, stable and smoother than tricot fabric. Milanese fabric stitches very similar
to tricot fabric. It can be identified by face fabric having a fine vertical rib and the
opposite having a diagonal structure.
Page | 81
Raschel knit: Raschel knit do not stretch significantly and used for coats, jackets and
dresses. Raschel knitting is done by heavy yarns and usually has a complex lacelike
pattern.
Kitten rashel knit: Kitten rashel knit is fine with good elasticity. Kitten rashel knit also
known as chain rashel.
Tricot Knit: Tricot knit fabric is very soft. It is used for verity of fabric weights and
design. There are many types of tricot fabric- plain tricot, satin tricot, mesh tricot etc.
Tricot fabric used in shirts, blouses and dresses.
B. Weft Knit Fabrics:
These fabrics are produced by a system of interlocking loops in a cross wise

direction. The loops are made in horizontal courses with each course built on top of
the other. All the needles operate independently of one another and all the stitches in
the course are made by one yarn. These fabrics are usually constructed horizontally
by needles without warp yarn. As merchandisers to handle knit garments we should
first learn to be able to identify the different kinds of knit and what the limits are of
what you can do of each kind. When knit fabrics are finished by the mill, it is usually
rolled on a tube with tension. Therefore, when you unroll the fabric on cutting table,
you should not apply the marker on and cut it right away, you should let it relax for a
few hours, or preferably over night to check it the length has become shorter when
the tension is gone. It may surprise you that the length or width or both have shrunk
5 to 7 % on the cutting table. Just imagine, if you cut the fabrics without relaxing
them you may end up getting your garments undersized on the tension it was given
prior.
Air Freight Calculation System for Garments
For air shipment, air freight charged or calculation system is depends on both actual
weight and cargo weight. If the actual weight is higher than cargo weight, then airline
will charge air freight based on higher weight that means they will charge on actual
weight of the goods. On the other hand, if the cargo weight is higher than actual
weight, then airline will charge based on higher weight that means cargo’s weight.
For high density goods, the airline has decided to charge the heavy merchandise
based on weight, and for low density goods the airline has decided to charge the low
Page merchandise
| 82 based on volume. As we know, airplanes can take less weight than
ocean lines. Airline set the standard, when garment industry or manufacturer ship
the goods by air, there is 70% chance to be charged based on weight and about 30%
chance to be charged based on volume.
If your merchandise is of high density (heavy) such as jeans, flat packed shirt,
jackets without polyester padding, T-shirt without hanger, there is a good chance you
will be charged by weight. In that case, it is not possible to save air freight by
packing the goods tighter in cartons to reduce the measurements.
However, if your merchandise is of low density (light weight) such as stands up

collar shirts, shirts individually boxed, jackets with polyester padding, or down fill T-
shirt or other shirts with hangers’ heavy gauge sweaters, there is a good change you
will be charged by volume. In that case, you should make an effort to necessary to do
so, you must know the following relationship between weight and volume as set by
IATA (The International Air Transport Association)
a. In the South East to the U.S. destinations and Canada, most shipping locations
used 1kg = 7000 cubic cm
b. In the South East to the U.S. destinations and Canada, certain shipping
locations used 1kg = 6000 cubic cm
Therefore, when you have low density (light weight) goods to ship by air, in order to
determine if you should try to make the cartons as small as possible to save freight,
you should check the following:
First of all, you check with local air forwarding agent by asking him in the country
where you are, how many cubic cm is considered 1kg in weight. He will tell you either
7000 cubic cm or 6000 cubic cm. After getting the answer you physically check the
weight and measurement of the goods packed for air shipment. Now we have the
below answers, as follows for example:
a. The country is Bangladesh and formula is 6000 cubic cm = 1kg
b. The measurement of the carton is 50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm
c. The gross weight of the cartons is 16kg / carton
Now let us find out if we should try to make the cartons smaller to save air freight by
doing the following calculation:
50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm = 120,000 cubic cm
Page | 83
120,000 cubic cm divided by 6000 cubic cm = 20 kg
Now you know, by volume, the one carton is of 20 kg, but by actual weight, the carton
is of only 16 kg. You also know the airline will charge whichever is higher, in this
case, the will charge you for 20 kg by volume. If the air freight rate is 2.70 /kg, this
carton will cost you $54.
Now, in order to save some money, let us try to make the carton smaller (usually by
cutting down the height of the carton). Let’s say we have succeeded in cutting down
the height by 5cm and see how much money we can save:
Original size of the carton: 50 cm X 60 cm X 40 cm = 20 kg
Now cut down to: 50 cm X 60 cm X 35 cm
50 cm X 60 cm X 35 cm = 105,000 cubic cm
105,000 cubic cm divided by 6000 = 17.5 kg
Now, by using the new carton, we have saved 2.5 kg and this carton will cost you
only $47.25 (17.5 kg x 2.70= $47.25)
Should we try to cut it down further if possible?

The answer is yes, because 17.5 kg is still bigger than the actual weight. We should
try to cut it down to:
50 cm X 60 cm X 32 cm
= 96000 cubic cm
= 96000 cubic cm divided by 6000
= 16 kg
Which is the same as the actual weight. In this case you will have to pay 16kg x 2.70 =
$ 43.2 for the air freight of this carton no matter by weight or by volume the airline
Page charges
| 84 you. Now you can see, by cutting the height down by only 8 cm, you have
reduced the freight from $54 to $43.2, saving 10.80 / carton.
Since the saving is so great, should we try to cut down the height further? The
answer is no, please see the following:
If we cut it down further by another 2cm, this will happen:
50 x 60 x 30 cm divided by 6000 = 15 kg
The airline will not charge you for 15kg, they will still charge you for 16kg because
the actual weight is 16 kg, the last 2cm you cut down will not save you any money.
However, if you can cut down the size of the carton and not hurt the appearance of
the garments inside, you should always do it because over-sized cartons can easily
be crashed due to insufficient support from inside, and in the season when air space
is tight, your volumetric cargo may have lower priority than other people’s density
cargo to get on the plane.
One point noteworthy is when you know it is going to be volumetric cargo and that
the merchandise is sweater, for example, which can be squeezed without being hurt,
you should use very strong carton to pack these goods such as 9 ply cartons (in
some countries called 4-ply).
In that case, the airline would take the measurements from the biggest point to the
biggest point. As a result, you will be charged more than you calculated. However, if
you use stronger cartons you can avoid this to an extent. You should not worry
about the 9 ply carton being heavier than the 7 ply carton to cost you more air freight,
because you are being charged by volume, not by weight.
Machines Used For Knit Fabric Production
In apparel industry, knitting machine used for producing knitted fabric like single
jersey, pique, fleece, terry and so on. There are two types of knitting machine used to
produce knit fabric, flatbed knit machine and circular machine. Actually, knitting
machine is a device that used to make fashionable product. Presently, circular
machine uses more than flatbed machine uses. Flatbed machine helps to make parts
like collar, cuff & pockets etc. for garments.
Now we will discuss about flatbed machine and circular machine. There are two
Page types
| 85 of knitting machines are used to produce knit fabric:
a. Flatbed knitting machine
b. Circular/tubular type knitting machine
A. Flatbed knitting machine:
In garments sector, to produce knitting flat pieces, flatbed machine is one of the
common knitting machine. A flat-formed fabric with straight edges or sides produced
on a flat-bed machine. Also note that, flatbed machine can’t purl stitch automatically.
Because flatbed knitting machine have horizontal needle beds. We call it flat knit as
opposed to circular knit. We usually use flat knit for collar cuff and bottom of knit
shirts or sometimes jackets too. When we use flat knit collar, cuff and bottom, we
usually would knit them to the exact sizes because as we know, they should not be
cut for size adjustment.
B. Circular/tubular knitting machine:
Now-a-day, circular/tubular machine is used widely for producing knitted fabric in the
knitting mills. All over the world, majority of knit fabrics are produced on circular
knitting machines. A tubular or circular fabric produced on a circular-type knitting
machine with the loop stitch formation process made around the fabric. Needles on
the knitting machine are arranged in circle, producing fabric in tubular form. Goods
may be produced as tubular yard good or circular-shaped components or trimmings.
Most knitted fabrics, are of circular knit which means before it is cut open, the
circumference is about 60”. After knitting is completed and finished, you cut it open
and width becomes about 60”.
When you set the width /Dia. by machine, you may stretch it to 62” or 64”. There is a
flexibility of about 6” you can play with to suit the garment chest measurement of
your size specifications. Therefore, before you specify the width of the knitted fabric
for the knitting mill to follow, you should study your garment size specifications to
determine what width you need to minimize the cutting loss.
Page Not
| 86 only you can stretch the width, you can also stretch the length and set it, so that
the width is wider and the length is longer. Since you buy knitted fabrics by weight
(by pound or kg), now that you have stretched the fabric width wise and lengthwise,
you seem to have benefited from this manipulation. Unfortunately, the truth of the
matter is, you are taking a very dangerous step because what you do may bring you
big problem later.
a. When you stretch the width and length, the weight of the fabric per square
meter will be reduced, you may be making the fabric too light beyond the
buyer’s acceptance.
b. When you stretch the width and length excessively, you are making the holes
in the fabric bigger than normal, the fabric may have a see through effect.
c. No matter the fabric is of 100% cotton, or cotton / polyester blend, when you
stretch it excessively, it will recover to an extent
When it is relaxed or washed, garments made of this over stretched fabric may not
pass the buyers test, nor even be found acceptable at the consumer level due to
excess shrinkage. We should not try to gain the extra profit by stretching the fabric
excessively. If we need wider width on the fabric to achieve better yield we should try
to set the machine to knit wider width, and not to make up the normal width and then
stretch it and set it. It is dangerous to do so.
Starching the selvedges of knit fabrics:
When you order knitted fabrics of medium to light weight, you should consider to
instruct the mill to starch the selvedge (to make both edges of the fabric inflexible so
that they will not curve up) without starching the selvedges, you may find the two
sides of the fabric, curved up on the cutting table, making it very difficult to lay the
fabric neatly for cutting.
Yarn Count Selection for Knitting
Yarn Count:
Count is numerical expression, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter)
of the yarn. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. Also indicate the
relationship between length and weight (the mess per unit length or the length per
unit mass) of that yarn. Definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a
number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn”
Types of yarn count:
Page i) Indirect
| 87 count – English, Worsted, Metric
ii) Direct count – Tex, Denier, Spindle.
Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight
unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton,
worsted & linen (wet spun) etc.
Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit.
Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic
fiber, jute, silk etc.
GSM:
The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a
textile engineer to understand and production of fabric. GSM means “Gram per
square meter” that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we
can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.
Count Selection in Knitting:

Knitted fabric is made with the help of yarn loops. Yarn of different counts is used to
produce fabric of different gram mage. There is also a need to calculate optimum
production of knitting machines. It is the job of knitting manager to do certain
calculation for proper use of machines and production of fabric according to the
demands of the customer.
Relation between count and GSM are given below:
Single Jersey:
110 – 120 GSM = 40/s, 36/s
130 – 150 GSM = 34/s, 32/s & 30/s
160 – 170 GSM = 26/s, 28/s (PC, CVC)
180 – 210 GSM = 24/s, 20/s, 18/s
220 – 240 GSM = 20/s
Page | 88
PK/LACOST/1X1 RIB:
150 – 170 GSM = 34/s
180 – 200 GSM = 30/s
210 – 225 GSM = 26/s
230 – 250 GSM = 24/s
250 – 270 = 20/s
2X1 RIB:
220 – 230 GSM = 30/s
240 – 250 GSM = 26/s
260 – 280 GSM = 24/s
INTERLOCK
22 Gauge - 24 Gauge
200 – 220 = 40/s
230 – 250 = 34/s
240 – 260 = 30/s
260 – 275 = 26/s
SINGLE JERSEY WITH LYCRA 5%:

150 – 160 GSM = 34/s
170 – 190 GSM = 30/s
200 – 210 GSM = 26/s
220 – 240 GSM = 24/s
FLEECE:
250 GSM = 20/s, 30/s (20: 80)
Page 300
| 89 GSM = 10/s, 26/s (30:70)
Select Yarn Count For Your Specific Fabric GSM

Yarn count selection for specific fabric GSM is technical and common task for textile
engineers. By using formula textile engineers can easily select the actual yarn count
for knot fabrics. These can be varying deferent fabric types.
Single Jersey:
If, the require fabric GSM is 150
Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22

= (-0.141) X (150) + 50.22
= -21.15 + 50.22
= 29.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 150 GSM single jersey fabric
Interlock:
Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56

= (-0.206) X (210) + 80.56
= -43.26 + 80.56
= 37.3
So, we need yarn count 38/s to knit 210 GSM Interlock fabrics
Pique:
Page Yarn
| 90 count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16
= (-0.146) X (230) + 57.16
= -33.58 + 57.16
= 23.58
So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 230 GSM Pique fabric
1*1 Rib:
Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57

= (-0.123) X (200) + 54.57
= -24.6 + 54.57
= 29.97
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 200 GSM 1x1 Rib fabrics
Double Lacoste:
Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36

= (-0.167) X (240) + 64.36
= -40.08 + 64.36
= 24.28
So, we need yarn count 24/s to knit 240 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics
Lycra 1×1 Rib:
If, required fabric GSM is 220
Page | 91
Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12
= (-0.119) x 220 + 59.12
= -26.18 + 59.12
=32.94
So, we need yarn count 32/s to knit 220 GSM 1x1 lycra Rib fabrics
Lycra 2x2 Rib:

Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62

= (-0.108) X (240) + 56.62
= -25.92 + 56.62
= 30.07
So, we need yarn count 30/s to knit 240 GSM Lycra 2x2 Rib fabrics
Formulating equations for calculating & controlling width, WPI, CPI & GSM of circular
weft knitted fabric
Fabrics are produced mainly by knitting technique and weaving technique. Knit fabric
production is easier and quicker than weaving technique. Though knitting production is
simple, its technical parameters calculation is complicated and difficult than weaving.
Technical parameters involved in the knit fabrics are: loop structure, loop/stitch length, CPI,
WPI, GSM, shrinkage, spirallity, fabric width etc. In reality knitted loops in the fabric is
curvilinear in shape but this work has done necessary analysis to consider it like a circle,
following that a circle geometry and corresponing formulae has been used in formulating
some parameters of circular knitted single jersey fabric. It is very difficult to maintain&
control circular knitted fabric parameters due to several variables (like yarn type, yarn
quality, yarn twist, fabric structure, machine speed, machine rotation, yarn tension, take up
tension & many more) related with circular knitting production and influences of them are
unavoidable, so the parameters can be varying more than acceptable limit. But still the
Page derived
| 92 formulae focus practical environment and help to calculate parameters directly and
easily.
Methodology:
The first attempt was to get a technical equation to calculate fabric diameter or width for
factory use and for that several ways was followed, both searching books and trying to
formulate new one. To have new equation, the proposed idea was using circle for loops
shape, then the same idea was used to calculate others parameters. All the equations were
then checked with large number of factory data.
Related Terminologies & Definitions:
Knitting
Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row of intermeshed loops. The newly fed
yarn is converted into a new loop in each needle hook. The needle then draws the new loop
head first through the old (fabric) loop, which has retained from the previous knitting cycle.
The needles, at the same time, release, (cast off or knock over) the old loops so that they
hang suspended by their heads from the feet of the new loops whose heads are still held in
the hooks of the needles. A cohesive knitted loop structure is thus produced by a
combination of the intermeshed needle loops and yarn that passes from needle loop to
needle loop. There are so many variables in knitting production like, yarn related (i.e. yarn
composition, count, twist direction, twist per inch (TPI) etc.); machine related (i.e. machine
diameter, machine RPM, rotation direction, no of feeder, VDQ pulley diameter etc.) & fabric
related (i.e. fabric type, construction, stitch length, stitch density etc.) and this can vary
fabric parameters at large.
Wales per Inch
Wales per inch (WPI) indicate the total numbers of wales in one inch of linear fabric. WPI is
one of the important parameters to determine GSM of fabric and other fabric properties.
Courses per Inch
Courses per inch (CPI) indicate the numbers of courses in one inch of linear fabric. In the
same manner, CPI is one of the important parameters to determine GSM of knit fabric and
other fabric properties.
Stitch length
Stitch length is theoretically the single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half
of a sinker loop between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loop. The length is
measured in millimeter (mm). It influences fabric dimension and other properties including
weight.
Fabric Width
Where, d = Cylinder diameter, G = Gauge of machine
Page | 93
GSM
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,
Here, T = Tex, S = Stitch density,

l= Stitch length
GSM is one of the primary parameters for determining fabric quality and GSM depends on
WPI, CPI, yarn count (Ne) and stitch length. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy
usable GSM testing instrument used in most of the knitting factories. The construction of
this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached
to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric
balance to get GSM Reading.
Technical formula used for GSM calculation,
Yarn Diameter Calculation:

In indirect system of yarn count, higher the yarn count finer the yarn
Analysis:
The shape of a loop is not circular, but the yarn for that loop or stich length can be taken as
equal to the circumference of a circle (Figure 1). The point is that, loop shape is not circle
but can be assumed as a circle and that will help to formulate some equations.
Page | 94
So, it has been assumed that every loop is equivalent to a circle and then circumference of
that loop will be equal to Stitch Length.
Width of Fabric:
Fabric width is formed by courses that are laying crosswise (loops in horizontal direction).
So, Width=loop Dia* no of loops
Width=loop Dia* no of course
Width=loop Dia* no of needles
Page | 95
According to this equation the width calculation should be easy and loop should stay like the
image cited below:
But every circle share part of circle of both sides. Fabric width from this equation will be less
than actual width because the loop circles placed consecutively shares both sides with
preceding and successive loops (Figure 3).
Now let’s make relation between values from this equation & actual values and see how
much closer they stay.
Table 1 shows that the actual width and the width from the equation always maintain
approximately same ratio among themselves. If this ratio can be considered as a constant
actual width of the fabric can easily be derived.
Page | 96
So the equations can be written as considering R as a constant as it shows in the Table 1.
The value of R for Single jersey is 1.25-1.30 and for 1*1Rib is about 1.00 and for others
fabric type’s value of R can be calculated.
Page | 97
Variation of R is related with type of fabric construction, needles number, yarn types and
composition, machine tension, speed, and tightness factor.
WPI:
WPI can be calculated from this equation of width.
No of needles=no of wales, and width is expressed in inch.
So, No of wales per inch=Total no of wales or no of needles/Width of the fabric in inches.
t is to be mentioned that actual WPI can be less than the WPI found from this equation if
any needles are inactive.

Course per Inch (CPI):
A knitted fabric is a combination of courses in horizontal direction with continuous yarn. A
wale is formed having courses as shown in figure 5. A loop contains a tail yarn of previous
Page loop
| 98 and a head yarn of next loop [From figure 5], so effective height of every course is (d1-
2dy) mm.
So, Course height is (d1 – 2dy) mm or {(d1 – 2dy)*39.36/1000} inch

Let, n=no of courses required for 1 inch of fabric or CPI
Page | 99
This equation can be used to have idea of CPI or to determine required no of feeder/course.
GSM:
The equation for GSM can be formulated by using equation of WPI & CPI formulated here.
The general formula for calculating GSM is
Page | 100
Page | 101
Figure 6 shows the variation of Actual GSM and GSM from derived equation for single
jersey grey fabrics made of 100% cotton at standard condition.
Page | 102
Figure 7 shows a relative presentation of actual and calculated GSM when required GSM is
130.The analyzed data shows that the error percentage for calculated GSM is below 5% in
most of the time. And this variation of GSM is related with so many factors like: color, yarn
count, tightness factor, relaxation state, andprocessesoccurred onthe fabric.
The equationof GSM contains the constant ‘R’ &statistical analysis for the values of R for
100% cotton single jersey fabric foundfrom analyzed data shows 1.46% standard deviation
when mean value is 1.273 at table 4.
On the other hand factory data for 120 GSM single jersey fabric productions from 100%
cotton yarn shows 5.46% standard deviation, which shows that equation derived here will
give less error then the existing ways of controlling GSM.
Page | 103
Results:
The equations for some knitting parameters of circular knitted fabric are
Where, R=constant that depends on fabric types.

D=Machine Diameter and G= Machine gauge
SL=Stitch Length (mm) & Ne=Yarn count (English count)
Knitted fabric is dimensionally unstable fabric. Here value of ‘R’ can be different for different
types of
variables. So, a constant ‘R’ value (for S/J R=1.25-1.3) must be measured by maintaining a
standard procedure & standard parameters of all variables. A further study should be done
to identify the constant value of ‘R’ for all basic types of knitted fabric.
Conclusion & Remarks:
All the equation derived here got two specific variables, Stitch length and Yarn Count. The
two which are mainly responsible for determining parameters like width, WPI, CPI & GSM.
The existing equations for calculating parameters may need more variables or need to be
calculated after production. All the equation here is to have a prediction about WPI, CPI,
Width and GSM, and process of formulation is so easy to understand that nontechnical &
Page technical
| 104 persons both will find it easy to absorb. The values from these equations show
less standard deviation than the present situation of production. The error can be less if ‘R’
value is more precise & standard procedure can be followed.
Consumption and chart:
Approx sewing thread consumption of different items
No. Product name Consumption

01 Basic t- shirt 125meter
02 Basic polo shirt 175
03 Tank top 50meter
04 Fleece/Sherpa jacket 250meter
05 Kids/girls dresses 300-450meter
06 basic long sleeve woven shirt 150meter
07 Basic short sleeve woven shirt 125 meter
08 basic long trouser/pant 350meter
Machine wise sewing thread consumption/inch
1.plain m/c 1 needle 2.5 inch

2.plain m/c 2 needle 5 inch
3.over lock 3 thread 13.25 inch
4. over lock 4thread 16.75inch
5.over lock 5 thread 18.75inch
6.flat lock 3 thread 16.75inch
7.flat lock 5thread 22.25inch
8.bar tack stitching Per operation Generally 7 inch
Some conversion unit

Conversion system
1 Yard = 0.9144 Meter
1 Foot = 0.3048 Meter
Page 1 Foot = 30.48 cm
| 105
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 Meter = 1.09 Yard
1 Meter = 3.28 Foot
1 CM = 0.032 Foot
1 CM = 0.393 Inch
1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM
1 Square Meter = 0.836 Square CM
3.4 Fabric Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Men’s T-shirt:
For a Men’s T-Shirt:
a) G.S.M (Given by buyer) Body : 145-150
Neck/Rib : 175-180
b) Sewing & seam allowances (Not given by buyer) – 1.50-3cm
c) Wastage % (Not given by buyer) – 7%
d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)
Measurement Chart:
Parameter Given Estimated with sewing allowance

a) Chest 96cm 102cm
b) HPS 65cm 70cm
c) sleeve length 20cm 25cm
d) Arm hole 46cm 49cm
e) Neck 58cm 61cm
f) Neck width 2+2=4cm 7cm
g) Bottom hem 2cm
Formula:
Cpd = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
Where, Cpd = Consumption per dozen
Page L =
| 106 Length
W = Width
A) Cpd (body) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg
10000000
= 1.28 kg
B) Cpd (Sleeve) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
10000000
= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
10000000
= 0.44 kg
C) Cpd (Neck) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

10000000
= 61 x 7 x 12 x 180 kg
10000000
= 0.092 kg
So, total Cpd = (A + B+C)

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.09) kg
= 1.81 kg
Actual Cpd = Total Cpd + 7% wastage
= (1.81 + 7%)
= 1.94 kg
So, the fabric consumption for men’s T-shirt is 1.94 kg per dozen.
3.5 Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Polo shirt
Here,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer) body 145 – 150
Page | 107 Collar (12pcs) 400

Cuff (12 x 2) 300
b) Sewing & seam allowance 1.50 – 3cm
c) Wastage % 7%
d) Measurement chart (given by buyer
6.2.1. Measurement Chart:
Parts Name Given Estimated

a) Chest 96 cm 102 cm
b) HPS 65 cm 70 cm
c) Sleeve length 20 cm 25 cm
d) Arm hole 46 cm 49 cm
e) Collar length 46 cm 46 cm
f) Collar width 7 cm 10 cm
g) Cuff length 26 cm 10 cm
h) cuff width 3 cm 5cm
A) Cpd (body) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg
10000000
= 1.28 kg
B) Cpd (Sleeve) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
Page | 108
10000000
= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
107
= 0.44 kg
C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg
107
= 0.22 kg
C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg
107
= 0.22 kg
D) Cpd (Cuff) = L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg

107
= 30 x 5 x 12 x 2 x 300 kg
107
= 0.108 kg
So, total Cpd= A + B + C + D
= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.22 + 0.108) kg
= 2.05kg
Actual Cpd = 2.05 kg + 7%
= 2.19 kg
Page So,
| 109fabric consumption for 1 dozen polo shirt is 2.19 kg.

Consumption calculation for 1 dozen Trousers:
For Trouser,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer) 180 - 250
b) Sewing & seam allowance 1.50 – 3cm
c) Wastage % 7%
Parts Name Given Estimated

a) Waist 112 cm 114 cm
b)Side seam (length) 107 cm 114 cm
c) Thigh (width 66 cm 72 cm
d) Front rise 28 cm
e) Back rise 36 cm
f)Leg Opening (bottom) 46 cm
Measurement Chart:
Cpd = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 114 x 2 x 72 x 12 x 200 kg
107
= 3.93 kg
Actual Cpd = (3.93 + 7%) kg
= 4.2 kg
So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen Trousers is 4.2
Page Result
| 110 and discussion

Cost a price for 1 dozen T- shirt:
Pre-requisites:
Unit price costing
1. Fabric consumption 2 kg/dz $5.0/kg $10/kg
2. Accessories $2/dz $2/dz
3. CM (cost of manufacturing) $2/dz $2/dz

Total $14
A) Direct cost (raw materials) = $14.0
B) Indirect cost (15% to 20% of direct cost)
Indirect cost = $14.0 x 20%

= $2.8
Total = $14.0 + $2.8
= $16.8

C) Profit @5% = $16.8 x 5%
= @0.84
Therefore, total cost = $16.8 + $0.84
= $17.64
= $18
So, the cost for 1 dozen mean’s T-shirt is $18
Cost a price for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Page | 111
Pre-requisites
Unit price Cost
1. Fabric consumption 2.7 kg/dz $5.0/dz $13.5
2. Accessoires $2.5/dz $2.5
3. CM $4-6/dz $5
Total $21
A) Direct cost (raw material) = $21

B) Indirect cost = 15% - 20% of direct cost
= $21 x 20%
= $4.2
Total cost = A + B
= $21 + $4.2
= 25.2
C) Profit at 5% = $25.2 x 5%
= $26.46
= $26.5
The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $26.5

Cost a price for 1 dozen Trousers:
Pre-requisites
Unit price Cost
Page 1. Fabric consumption 4.2 kg $5.0/dz $21

| 112
2. Accessories $3.5/dz $3.5
3. CM $4-6/dz $5
Total $29.5
A) Direct cost (raw material) = $21
B) Indirect cost = 15% - 20% of direct cost

= $21 x 20%
= $4.2
Total cost = A + B
= $21 + $4.2
= $33.2
C) Profit at 5% = $33.5 x 5%
= $35.18
= $35.18
The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $35.18

Printing
1. used to add color to localized areas only

Page 2.
| 113 allows for greater design flexibility and relatively inexpensive patterned fabric
3. wet prints use a thick, liquid paste
4. dry prints use a powder
5. foam prints use a colorant dispersed in foam
Printing methods
Digital printing—
• ink-jet printing
Heat-transfer printing
• design transferred to fabric from specially printed paper by heat & pressure
Electrostatic printing
• prepared screen covered with powdered dye; passes through electric field & pulled
onto material
Foil printing
• adhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat transfer press & bonds to adhesive
pattern
Stencil printing
• separate pattern cut for each color, color is applied in thick paste or sprayed on with
air gun
There are three methods of pattern dyeing and printing:

Direct printing
Resist printing
Discharge printing
Direct Printing:
In direct printing a design is etched into a copper roller. A dye that has been thickened into
a paste with starch, gelatin, or synthetic polymers is applied to the etched area while the un-
etched surface is kept clean. The color design is transferred to the cloth under pressure.
Page Direct
| 114 printing may also involve forcing the paste onto the fabric through a screen, a
technique similar to stencil printing except that the screen controls how much paste is
applied to the cloth.
Resist Printing:
In resist printing a reverse-printing method, a dye repelling substance is selectively applied
to the cloth, which is then placed in a dye bath. This method is used for example, to
produce white polka dots on a color background.
Discharge Printing:
In discharge printing, the whole fabric is dyed. A pattern is then printed on the fabric with a
chemical that oxidizes or reduces the dye, creating a white pattern on a colored
background.
All Others Printings are-

 Allover print.
 Screen print.
 Reactive print.
 Print with plastisol dye-stuffs.
 Pigment print
 Flock print
 Foil print
 Lurex print
 Embossed print
 Heat transfer print
 Hi-density print
 Dip-dye print.
Factors Affecting Cost of Printing
1. Size of printing
2. Number of color of printing
3. Any grading of size of printing from size to size
Page 4.
| 115 Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals
5. Lab test requirement
6. Wash sustainability
7. Tolerance in placement of print art-work
8. Tolerance in color shade variation
9. Place of printing
10. Type of printing
Steps of Printing
 Preparation of the fabric to be printed.
 Preparation of the print paste.
 Making an impression of the print paste on the fabric.
 Drying of the printed fabric.
 Steaming of the printed fabric.
 After treatments (soaping etc.)
Printing Process
Sychrop print\ hand print
↓
Dryer (temp 170 – 172)
↓
Quality inspection
↓
Sewing.
Steps of Printing Section

Design
↓
Expose
↓
Color
↓
Develop sample
Process of after Production Primary Printing Inspection
Approval
↓
Strike of Approval
Page | 116 ↓
Hand over (Measurement Chart)

↓
Pre-production meting
↓
Quality Report
↓
Total Production Summary
Roller / Rotary Printing

This process involves a print paste (like a thick paint) that is applied to an engraved roller,
and the fabric is guided between it and a central cylinder. The pressure of the roller and
central cylinder forces the print paste into the fabric. Because of the high quality it can
achieve, roller printing is the most appealing method of printing designer and fashion
apparel fabrics.
Long runs of the same fabric design are produced on a roller print cylinder machine
operating at speeds between 50 and 100 yards a minute. As many as 10 different colors
can be printed in one continuous operation, but each color must have a separate roller.
The design is cut into the surface of copper rollers; by varying the depth of the engraving on
the roller the shade depth can be altered. Sharpness of line and fine detail can be achieved
this way. A typical printing machine has a large padded drum or cylinder, which is
surrounded by a series of copper rollers, each with its own dye trough and doctor blade that
scrapes away excess dye.
Schematic diagram of PRINTING
The tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric, the print paste is distributed
inside a tubular screen, which is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen
and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt). It picks up color from the engraved area of
each roller in sequence. The printed cloth is dried immediately and conveyed to an oven
that sets the dye. Knitted fabric is mostly printed in this method as it does not pull or stretch
Page the
| 117fabric.
Print Techniques
 Roller Printing
 Flat (Silk) Screen Printing

Page 
| 118 Rotary Screen Printing
 Block Printing
 Heat Transfer Printing
 Dye Sublimation Printing
 Resist Printing
Exposing m/c Curing m/c Heat transfer m/c

Design:
Printing design means colors separate to the design. Printing size, grading system,
measurement then design pass to the expose section.
Expose:
Design pass to the screen heat transfer to the expose machine , screen is the mesh fabric
the machine can per from through high function vacuum pumps that saves time for screen
preparation. Exposing Machine that is specially designed to enable the fine screen to be
exposed. Imported sealed rubber blanket and filtered air regulator is used to keep the
machine dust clean.
 The Machine is a specially designed for enable the fine screen to be expose
 The Machine can perform high function (imported) vacuum pumps.
 Instant vacuum leads to save time for screen preparation.

 The machine consists indigenous quick start espousal systems, the light is very
Page | 119 strong and stable
 Machine adopts many rows of powerful homogeneous distribution UV light source,
economic and save energy.
 The Imported sealed rubber blanket.
 Filtered Air Regulator Heat &+ Keep Dust clean
Steps in design to screen

Screen mode (50-60 min dryer temp 70 c)
↓
Exposing m\c
↓
Cold water (5 min)
↓
After them spray gun develop
↓
Dryer (30-40 min)
↓
Re-wash
↓
Dryer (20 min)
↓
Re-expose (20 min)
↓
Hard & applied.
↓
Design complete
Difference between Automatic Print & Hand Print
Automatic Print Hand Print

1. Accuracy 1. No Accuracy
2. Limited Production 2. No Limited Production

Page | 120
3. Production is high 3. Production is Low
4. Depends on m/c capacity 4. It is manually print
5. Capacity is 9 colors 5. Variety colors print
Rotary Screen Printing Process

Page | 121
Page | 122
Block Printing
Block printing is a traditional process dating back to India in the 12th century. Wooden
blocks made of seasoned teak in different shapes and sizes are cut by trained craftsmen.
Each block has a wooden handle and two or three holes drilled into the block to the
passage of air and release of excess print paste.
Fabric is stretched over a printing table and fastened with small pins. Printing starts from left
to right, first the color is evened out in the tray and then the block is dipped in. Then the
block is applied to the fabric with careful registration and pressure is applied.
Dye Sublimation Printing
Dye sublimation allows photo lab quality picture printing. During the dye sublimation printing
process, an image is digitally printed in reverse with dye sublimation toners or inks onto
media. That image is then placed on top of a fabric and subjected to high heat and pressure
to form a heat press. The dye sublimation toners or inks sublimate – the inks go from a solid
state to a gaseous state without becoming liquid in between and flow into the fabric, dyeing
the threads.
This creates a gentle gradation of color and does not distort or fade over time.
Heat Transfer Printing
This is essentially transferring an image to fabric from a paper carrier. When heat and
pressure are applied to this paper the inks are transferred. Some transfers are topical, and
the image sits on the surface of the fabric. Other transfers are absorbed into the fibers of
the fabric.
Heat transfer printing is clean and environmentally safe. The only by-product is the paper
carrier. It is the perfect print method for short run and sample production, but can also be
used for batch production as well.
Batik
Although experts disagree on the origins of Batik, it is very popular in Indonesia and Africa.
The cloth that is used for batik is washed and boiled in water many times before the wax
can be applied so that all traces of starches, lime, chalk and other sizing materials are
removed. Before modern-day techniques, the cloth would have been pounded with a
wooden mallet or ironed to make it smooth and supple so it could receive the wax design.
The
Designer uses a ‘tainting’ (wax pen) to draw the design on the cloth. The
Wax is kept fluid in a melting pot.
Page After
| 123 the wax has been applied, the fabric is ready for the dye bath. Today most batik
factories use large concrete vats, above the vats are ropes with pulleys that the fabric is
draped over after it has been dipped into the dye bath. The amount of time it is left in the
bath determines the hue of the color (longer for deeper colors)
Direct Print
Also called application print. Design is printed directly onto a white cloth or a previously
dyed fabric. They are the most popular print types.
Discharge Print
Fabrics are dyed a solid color prior to printing. When printing is done, the design is applied
by screen or roller with a chemical which removes the color of the originally dyed fabric.
Discharge prints can be made with rollers and screen methods. They are not widely used
because production costs are high.
Page | 124
Resist Print
It involves a two-step procedure:
(1) Printing a pattern design on a white fabric with a chemical that will prevent
penetration of dyes; and piece dyeing the fabric. The result is a dyed background with a
white patterned area.
Blotch Prints
 It is one in which the background color is created by printing rather than dyeing.
 The ground and pattern design colors are printed onto a white cloth.
 One of the problems with blotch prints is that large background color areas of the
print are not covered with the full depth of color.
Page | 125
Warp Prints
 This involves printing the warp yarns of a fabric before weaving. The fabric is woven with
a solid color filling, usually white. The result is a soft, shadowed, blurred design on the
fabric.
 These prints are found on high quality, costly fabrics because it requires careful,
meticulous labor.
Tiny particles of fiber are made to adhere to a fabric surface in conformance to a particular
design. Rayon and nylon fibers are typically used for flocking.
The ability of flocked fibers to withstand dry cleaning and/or laundry depends on the adhesive.
Adhesives with excellent fastness to cleaning processes are used.
Page | 126
Burn-out Prints
 This involves printing with a chemical that will destroy the fiber in the patterned design
print area.
 In fabrics that are made with blended yarns, the burn-out chemical will destroy one fiber
and leave the other undamaged. Unusual and interesting fabrics can be created by this
method.
Duplex Prints
 These are fabrics in which both sides of the fabric are printed.
 They are made to imitate more costly woven yarn-dyed design effects such as
stripes, checks and plaids. They are rarely used because of the high cost of printing
both sides of a fabric.
Page | 127
Magic Color
Variotherm in use. Only for pigment & base fabric just white & light color just heat fabric
print reduces, cold then fabric prints in show.
Chemical in use:-
 Variotherm & pigment.

 Color in use.
Time: 7.5 pieces/min.

Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok
Metallic Print
Metallic print is the powder from then mix if any color & print.
Chemical in use:-
 Base - 200
 Powder  5-10%
 Color in use.
Fault:
Page 
| 128 Color shade
 Design
 Placement design ok.
Glitter print
Glitter is the powder from. Fixer must be use.
Chemical in use:-
 Binder - 100
 Glitter powder ----- 30-50
 Color in use.
 Fixer— 1-2 %
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Fixer cannot be use then glitter is damaged print.
Puff print
It is chemical character. It is imbues mesh.
Chemical in use:-
 Base & clear minimum - 50
 White if need -100
 Color in use.
Time: 2 pieces/min. Temp- 170 c
Fault:-
 Color shade
 Design
 Gum mistake then flock mistake
Foil print
Print some pattern with the foil on the fabric or paper for shinny effect. Foil print is the foil
Page paper.
| 129 It is heat transfer
Chemical in use:-
 Gum mix binder.
 Heat press foil.
 Time 10-15 sec & temp -160-165 c
Time: -7.5 pieces/min.
Fault:-
 Color shade
 Design
 Gum mistake then foil mistake& heat problem then print problem.
Flock print
The flock technique of printing designs with an adhesive and sprinkling with fine bits of wool
or silk was probably first adapted to wallpaper. Fiber dust use with gum.
Chemical in use:
 Powder with gum.

 Fixer add gum
 Fixer-1% & gum-100%
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Gum mistake then flock mistake
Discharge
Discharge means out of fabric colors. Activator must be use.
Chemical in use
 White & clear.
 Activator -->6-10%
Page Time:
| 130 7.5 pieces/min.
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Fabric must be discharge.
 White fabric is no print.
Oil base plastisol
It is oil soluble. It is sari cal thinner; it is oil to which other oils or substances are added to
produce a lubricant.
Chemical in use:-
 Seri cal thinner.
 Oil base color.
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Seri cal problem then print problem.
Water base plastisol
Water-based ink is much more difficult to cure than plastisol. Whether printing with plastisol
or a water-based ink system, you are still printing. There are two major schools of screen
printing ink; plastisol and water based. Plastisol is a PVC based ink and is what the majority
of commercial printers use. Water based is, as the name suggests, a water based ink with
pigments suspended within it. Water based prints have many positive qualities. The industry
term "hand" refers to how soft a print feels on the decorated item. Water based inks are well
known for the minimal or soft hand that they provide. Prints made with water based can be
ironed, while plastisol prints cannot be, as the iron's heat plate would melt the PVC in the
ink.
Chemical in use:-
 Clear &white
Page 
| 131 & color
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
 Setting
Pigment print
Pigment used in textile printing is mainly synthetic organic materials, except for carbon
black, titanium dioxide and anatase types copper & aluminum alloys & sometimes iron
oxide. When choosing these synthetic pigments, the price, the fastness properties, the
brilliance & the coloring power of the many produce available are all taken into
consideration. Pigments are various organic & in organic insoluble substances, which are
widely used in surface coating.
Chemical in use:-
 Water- 80kg
 Binder- 15kg
 Thickener- 5kg
 &color
Time: -7.5 pieces/min.
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
Pigment print
Requirements of Pigment print:-
 Pigment must have mixing ability.
 Pigment should be non-toxic.
 Pigments have good covering power.
Page Advantages
| 132 of pigment:-
 Pigment printing is most economical printing process & allows maximum output of
goods.
 Genera fastness properties are ok.
 It can be applied for natural as well as man-made fibers.
 Pigment print presents least problem for the printers.
Disadvantages of pigments:-
 Pigments are sensitive to crushing during roller printing.
 Rubbing fastness is medium & no pigment is completely fast to dry clearing.
Glow in the Dark

It is direct over print white color then use.
Chemical in use:-
 White glow in the dark.
 Color in use.
Fault:
 Color shade
 Design
This is called resist dyeing

Page | 133
Bandhani is a tie and dye technique from India
Burnout Printing
Burn-out textiles is a technique used to develop raised designs on fabric surface. This is
primarily being done in fabrics with at least 2 different fiber content i.e. Cotton-
Polyester, Silk-Rayon etc. Here one fiber component is being dissolved thru chemical
reactions while the other content remains intact giving away raised illusion designs.
Page | 134
Page | 135
Page | 136
Page | 137
Page | 138
Page | 139
Page | 140
Difficulties in printing
 Lighter Print Faults in Textile Screen Printing on Fabric:
 Lighter shades on Selvedge and gradually deeper towards the other.

Page | 141
 In the middle of the fabric and darker towards the selvedges.
 While using large amount of foam.
 Due to uneven application of Gum.
Darker Screen Printing faults:
 May be obtained irregularly throughout the fabric.
 If a soft table is used on a hard table surface.
 If a hard squeeze is used on a soft table surface.
 Deep stripes along the warp.
 Very small specs of color on the ground (Unprinted Portion).
 Screen may get clogged during working.
Printing faults
 Print color shading
 Print slarted
 Color spot
 Bleeding
 Print wrong
 Print burn
 Air hole
 Print bubble
 Print missing
 Wrong place
 Not properly attached
 Hand feels
 Migration
 Dirty mark
 Uneven shade
 Shade variation
 Print sticky
 Print not coverage
 Print gap

Page | 142 Print over
 Wrong side
 Color wrong
 Size mistake
 Bunoledle card mistake
 Fabric h
 Fabric shade
 Crease mark
 Oil spot
 Fabric burn
 Needle mark
 Cutting problem
 Sticker wrong
 Dye migration 34.Yarn hole
 Yarn contamination
 Fly yarn.
Page | 143
Page | 144
Page | 145
Page | 146
Page | 147
Page | 148
Page | 149
Page | 150
Page | 151
Page | 152
Page | 153
Page | 154
Page | 155
Page | 156
Page | 157
Page | 158
Page | 159
Page | 160
Page | 161
Page | 162
Page | 163
Page | 164
Page | 165
Page | 166
Page | 167
Page | 168
Page | 169
Page | 170
Page | 171
Page | 172
Page | 173
Page | 174
Page | 175
Page | 176
Page | 177
Page | 178
Page | 179
Page | 180

Important Basic Things To Know Always

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Important Basic Things To Know Always

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Important Basic Things to Know Always

1. A sweater’s weight 950 grams, find out weight in lbs.?

2. A Bundle of Yarn’s weight 3 lbs., find out weight in grams?

3. A sweater of 3 kg weight, find out weight in lbs.?

4. A sweater of 3 lbs. weight, find out weight in KGs?

GSM, Oz (Ounces), Embroidery Unit

6. A Twill Fabric of 8 Oz, find out its GSM?

Formula: {(warp + weft) x 47 / (warp count + Weft Count) + 5} / 33.906 = Oz per Square

See the photo below to identify warp & weft threads.

Identify warp & weft threads

See photo below to identify EPI & PPI.

Identify EPI & PPI

Formula: length X width X height / 1000000

Formula: length X width X height / 1728

Formula: price / 12000 X embroidery stitches

Formula: length X width X GSM / 1550000 (1 yard = 36 inches)

Formula: length X width X GSM / 10000000 (1 Meter = 100 cm)

Formula: kg X 1550000 / length / width (1 yard = 36 inches)

Formula: kg x 10000000 / length / width (1 meter = 100 centimeter)

Formula: length X width X 4 X GSM / 1550000 + Wastage% (This formula is applied if the

The photo below shows you a pants Length & Width.

A pants Length & Width

Formula: (length X width X 4 X GSM / 10000000 + 5%) x 12 (This formula is applied if

Formula: (length X width X 4 / Fabric Width / 36 + wastage %) x 12 (36 inches = 1

Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 X GSM + wastage%] x

Formula: [{(chest X length) + (sleeve length X full armhole)} x 2 / fabric width / 36 +

T-shirt & its measurement

Formula: marker length X marker width X GSM / 1550000

Fabric Consumption in dozen: (7 x 36 + 4) x 60 x 180 / 1550000 / 5 x 12 = 4.28 KGs.

 2 Needles Plain Machine = 5.5 inches for per inch stitch

F. Carton Consumption & Pricing:

Formula: length X width X height / 1000000 X carton quantity

Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton

Formula: (length + width + wastage) X (width + height + wastage) x 2 / 10000 X carton

G. Poly Bags Consumption & Costing:

 Mil (1 mil = 1/1000 of an inch)

H. Button Linear & Button Counting:

Formula: Button Dia in mm / 0.635 or 1 / 0.635 x button Dia in mm

Memorize the information below regarding button.

I. Threads Length Calculations:

 1 lb. single cotton thread length = 840 yards

Therefore, Sixteen Single (16s) = 16 x 840 = 13440 yards = 1 lb.

J. Sweater Gauge Counting & Yarn Consumption:

See image below to know how to count Knitting Gauge.

Gauge Count & Ply Count & Ply

1. Monthly expense of factory,

 Monthly Factory Expense = 50,00,000 Taka

 Hourly production of the layout = 125 pcs

1. From marker ( it is more accurate)

Page | 183. Washing cost = $ 1.50

Page | 194. Washing cost = $ 3.00

Waist size No. of Pcs yards

Fabric Consumption in Garment making

(L + S.L. + AL-01) × (½ C + AL-02) × GSM ×2×12+Wastage%

100 100 1000

L (Length) = HPS (High Point Shoulder

S.L = Sleeve Length

Shoulder Join = 1.5 Cm

Sleeve Hem = 2.5- 3 Cm

Sleeve Join = 1.5 cm

Grand Total =10 cm

Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 2 cm

= 2.76 kg/ doz