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An unvented assembly can perform well, but it’s important to get the details right to
avoid sheathing rot. Air-permeable insulation such as fiberglass batts, dense-
packed cellulose, or blown-in fiberglass can’t be used alone for an unvented
assembly, since these types of insulation can allow moist indoor air to reach the
cold roof sheathing, leading to condensation or moisture accumulation in the
sheathing. Unvented roof assemblies should be insulated either with air-
impermeable insulation (rigid foam or spray polyurethane foam) or with a
combination of foam and air-permeable insulation. If you don’t want to use SIPs or
nailbase, there are four basic approaches.
You can install all of the insulation above the roof sheathing, but the foam has to be
thick enough to meet minimum code requirements for ceiling R-value. The rigid
foam will be fairly thick (see sidebar “How much insulation?”).
OPTION 2: Rigid foam on roof sheathing with air-permeable insulation between the
rafters
Rigid foam also can be installed above the roof sheathing in tandem with air-
permeable insulation between the rafters. In this case, the rigid foam can be thinner
than when it’s used alone. Code specifies the minimum R-value of the rigid-foam
layer.
Since it’s air impermeable, spray polyurethane foam can be installed alone on the
underside of roof sheathing. The foam must be thick enough to meet minimum
code requirements. The main drawback is high cost. Other concerns: Closed-cell
spray foam uses blowing agents with a high global-warming potential, and open-cell
spray foam needs a carefully detailed vapor barrier to prevent moisture
accumulation in the sheathing.
OPTION 4: Spray foam with air-permeable insulation
A layer of spray polyurethane foam can be installed against the underside of the
roof sheathing, with the rest of the rafter cavity filled with air-permeable insulation.
You must meet the same minimum code requirements for the spray-foam layer and
the total assembly as for the rigid-foam-plus-air-permeable insulation approach.
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