THE WATCH MAGAZINE BY We SCHAFFHAUSEN —~ NO. 01/2013 WATCH INTERNATIONAL THE INGENIEUR EDITION NEW COLLECTION — ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE RACING ACE — INTERVIEW WITH NICO ROSBERGUc Ca DRE tear Tees UT Ue Ce te LC 3774: In every epoch, there are researchers, explorers an bing the indescribable, of making the incom ne supernal, These fo thinkers sti exist: today, they dedi ment of 8 implications once ble, Highlights of their work oan c 9 mlication, the flagship ofthe Portuguese t rechanically programmed perp: cispley and a cchronagraph with hour, mi 4 nands. The 79081 callore's crowning glo minute repeater that took ne less than 50,000 hours to de in resistble fascination, on the other hand, takes just a second IWC. Engineered for men.NIMC TEU IEXO MILO RITET The lucky stuff goes into one The new SLS AMG GT Coupé. ReeASTAR ALLIANCE MEMBER ¥2~THE DEAR READER ye year 2019 marks the launch of the remodeled Ingeniour watch collection. By pursuing the motto “Progress results from continuous change,” the first Ingenieur from 1955 already em bodied IWC Sehafthausen's philosophy. The oxginal, functional exterior housed a movement with wealth of sophisticated tectnology. With the naw Ingenieur family, we pay tribute to In novation, technological progress and the enginoors behind the timepienes. They make sure we remain the pioneers of devel ‘opment and creations and have managed to bxing knowledge {and skis from other industries into thie new collection. With the use of materials euch as titanium, ceramic and ‘carbon, and with the inspiration from a diferent sevoir-faire, the new Ingenieur collection highlights our partnership with the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team Now it may not seem tke race cars and timepieces have & it in common, indaed, watchmakers could not manage to oper. ate without a magnilying glass and race car designers would be ‘cet without a wind tunnel. Moreover itis probably easier to woar than to dfive a race car. With 659 components, our EDITORIAL — GEORGES KERN INGENIEUR EDITION most complicated timpioces may have less than a FORMULA + 5, which contains approximately 8,209 pleces. 'Navortholass, the engineering involved in creating a move- ment so complex within the confines of a watch case is no less impressive. Both WC Schatthausen and the MERCEDES ANG PETRONAS Formula One Team share the same values and vislon. We focus on high-level engineering, top pertorm: ‘ance, and the quest fo uitimate perfection in our products. ‘The Ingenieur Chronograph Racer is taking the role post tion in this issue. It is @ perfect watch to measure lap times: nd will nt only appeal to those who love nothing more than the soream of a high-performance engine. TAKING INSPIRATION FROM THE WORLD OF FORMULA 1 THE IWC INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH RACER (PAGE 34).CONTENTS INTERVIEW 22 NICO ROSBERG He seeks perfection in DRMULA everything he does. it be on or off the circuits. Before last final race In Brazil the racing ace shared his thoughts on his life in the fast lane watcHes 30 IWC 2015: THE YEAR OF THE INGENIEUR t's all about speed! With the new line of ingenieur watches IWC Is getting on board with one of the fastest FORMULA 1 teams on the planet, MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS. A porfect fit. First Introduced in the 1950s, the Ingenieur in many ways Is the ultimate IW watch: ultra-suave ane highly engineered. Among this years introductions are the high-performance ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium, the sporty yet sophisticated Ingenieur Chronograph Racer, the global ingenieur Dual Time Titanium and the timelessly classic Ingenieur Automatic01.2013 Je is a movie star and hear throb, best known for his role as Dr, Derek Shepherd, dream guy from the TV hit series “Gray's Anatomy.” Bul besides his acting, Patrick Dempsey has yet another burning passion: auto racing 60 must Haves For this Ingenieur Edition of Watch International, the premier global online retail destination for men's style features @ selection of smart accessories for the autos bile aficionado with @ for acceleration and speed. v oy TECHNOLOGY Christian Knoop Thomas Mao FORMULA 1 FOLD-OUT MANUFACTURE Birthplace of the Silver Arrows perth helmets Rolf Dobell Nick Fry Protassor Niall covumn Nicholas Foulkes competitionACKNOWLEDGEMENTS — WATCH / WwW CONTRIBUTORS ROLF DOBELLI Rolf Dobeli ie a bast-seling writer (The {Art of Thinking Cleary") and entre- preneur. He founded ZURICH MINDS, a community ofthe world’s most cistinguished thinkers, scientists end ants, as well as gotAbstract. the woric’s largest publisher of compressed business knowledge. PAGE 70 ALBERTO VENZAGO “An authentic image is more important than a beautiul image," is how Alberto Venzago sums up his philosophy. For ths issue, the Zurich-based photographer and filmmaker took some sirking portraits of FORMULA 1 ace Nico Rosberg during last year's Brazilan Grand Prk in S30 Paulo. PAGE 22 TOM CLARKSON Ever since he attended the 1983 British Grane Prix at Siverstone, ‘Tom Glarkson, who has interviewed Nico Rosberg for this issue, has been hooked on racing. Besides witing for 1 Racing Magazine since 1999 he now also works for Australia's broadcaster TEN Sport PAGE 22 APP-TO-DATE WATCH INTERNATIONAL FOR YOUR IPAD MIMI \Weteh Internationa i now also available on your iPad mini. The attractively designed digital edition features ‘many articles from the print version and comos with bonus vieual material and audio files ‘on various topics. Fims and sound recordings provide an entertaining adltion to the stories. The iPad application \was recently awarded with a DDC award (Deutscher Design Club) inthe digtal media category wo. 1/2033 — 20 you — 188m 16595908 — PUBLIBNED A WO Schrauean —SUPERVIEORY BOARD: GauroHe Ken, Hones A. Pt, Kaine Hiner pnooverion: DiC, Arohr — EREATIVE DMEETOR: Or Le, Fg, Hag — ART DIRECTOR: Le Nene gD [PRES & priine: Cai Star, Hee Druck AS, OUESS Suir — BUBECRITIONE: Mon Rt, Hae Dik A, OSE Sgt wt 71 64 8 Go, Base pworo eorroR Tin Seatac, noBaw Goan ias Cerentiis (cake er Iny a Winter breaks Yy OI oe - On top of the < rina NS enn RCM uy OgMINUTES +HOURS IWC _AT TWO CHARITY EVENTS IN THE LAND “DOWN UNDER” Singer Ronan Keating (lf) with Randall March (pater), whose bid secured the Brand Manager INC Australia —————w Schaffhausen was recently the center of attention at two events held in Syoney and fronted by loyal Frionds of tho Brand of many years’ standing: Ronan Keating and Cate Blanchett, The Irish singer host at the fist Emeralde and Ivy Ball in Australia and his perfor he hearts of the 300 guests for a fund raising event to benetit the Cancer Council's Ronan Keating Fellowship, (One of the highlights of the evening was 1oe opened ho auction of an IWC Portofino Auto matic, “It's great that the proceeds of the watch are going to such a good cause,” said Edwin de Vries, IWC Brand Manager Australia and New Zealand, Equally glamorous was an evening te Blanchett and her hustend Andrew Upton. For the fifth he two artistic directors of the Sydney Theater Company STC invited over 200 business leaders and artists to an evant in their theator that raised the handsome figure of more than AUD 400,000. One of the contributing fac tore was the auction of an IWC Inge: rieur Automatic, Coto Blanchett ght) and hucband who put up the winning bi for an IWC Ingonieur AutomaticDialogue Intelligen USM trans! hy Visit ourshowroom or request detailed information USA: USM U Schaerer Sons Ine, 28-30 Groene St, NewYork, NY 10019, Phone +1212 371 1280 Invenational: USMU. Sonarer Sonne AG, 3110 Munsingen Swizeriand, Phone -81 $1720 7272 ‘Showrooms: Berin, Bem, Dasseldorf, Hamburg, New Yor, Pats, Toyo Info@usmcom, wa.usm.com USM Modular FurnitureMANUFACTURE — TECHNOLOGY IWC Schatthausen is a leading exponent of high technology in watchmaking. Since 1980 it has housed some of Its watches In titanium, a high-tech material also chosen for the case of the Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium, one of the new models in the year of the Ingenieur. The case protects the movement even under extreme conditions. The layout: movement tet yst to boincartod, but tho Chronograph stanistop buttons and ther bushings ae leary visible. The ta- rium push-bttons and screws infor aay rea sone, ate rubber costed IVC uses the same pro- ‘eee, whieh ean most readily be compared to Is Aquatimer watcnes. ‘ron and push-buttons ‘Thanks to 1 years of experience in machine tan, the ‘separate elements: he bozo, the maidie section, ‘and the screw-in back ‘shaped body. For connaasours the — thi chronograph push button at 10 o'leck Incats a feature do- signe to tack short pt: ‘ods of tine: the ait High technology in deal the five serous used to svcure the bezel and g88- seconde neon of of cera, Th mater rataparte” Tie used ix between he cae, to1ecord we 09 “TITANIUM, ZIRCONIUM OXIDE bush-outens and tines of vying nats AND THEIUSE OF RUBBER: serews pode asking ‘tin any given minut. color conta ALONG WITH THE ERGONOMICAL INGENIEUR DESIGN BLEND INTO A UNIQUE LOOK THAT PROVIDES A COMFORTABLE WEAR.” (Case made of Grade 2Tanium ard satin-fnished using a speci! process Diometer45 mm, case Naight 15 mm, tes pueh-butons made of bber-costed ttanium, ‘setew-ineabe back and crown, water rest to 12 ber.MR. PATRICK DEMPSEY He is a movie star and heart thrab, best known Tor his role as Dr. Derek Shepherd, the dream guy from the TV hit series “Grey's Anatomy. But bosides hie acting, Patrick Dempsey has yet another burning passion: auto racing. DIRK C. RHEKER He once was something Ike poster boy for the 1980s, flaunting a highly styled hairdo, leather pants and oversized, beige-colored sports jackets. A ques: tionable look, to be sure ~ even if, at the timo, he already seemed way cooler than most of his fellow actors. Luckily, there's nothing left of this today. Au contralre: Patrick Dempsey has blossomed since then as Dr. Derek Shepherd ‘ake “McDreamy,” the much-adored character from the TV series "Gray's Anatomy.” A lady's dream guy, the perfect ‘example of the type of man that has the nerve to become more and mare attractive as he ages. Raised in Maine, Patrick started to dream of the big stage from an early age. He first sought the limelight as a Clown, taught himself to juggle and unicycle at age 15 and won third place in @ national juggling contest. While he never fulfiled his hopes for success in a circus cereer, he s00n found himself making his mark in Hollywood, snother circus of sorts. Patrick was already showing great potantial for making women’s hearts beat faster, as evidenced by his 1987 film debut in the comedy “Can't Buy Me Love.” Later, he drew attention in mavias such as "Mobsters" or ‘Out break" and in the popular sitcom "Will and Grace.” He played Reasa Witherspoon's fiance in "Sweet Home Ale- bbama,” starred next to Hilary Swank in the blo-fle “Free: ddom Witers," and was seen in the Disney hit "Enchanted. More recent appearances included “Tansformars 3 as well as the crime comedy “Flyeaper,” in which he starred alongside Ashley Judd. But the biggest impact on his Image is his role as Dr. Darek Shepherd, who, along with George Clooney, is prob: ably one of the most famous doctors in the history of hos: pital shows on telavision. “I never really thought much about becoming a star,” Dempsey said, flashing one of his kiler-smies, “I just wanted to work and make a ving 28 an facter." You almost want to believe him Despite the milions of adoring female TV viewers, his biggest fan is little Talula Fyfe, his young daughter with his wile, villan Fink, "One day che eald to me: “You're quite 19004: looking, daddy."* Patrick recounted and couldn't stop smiling at the memory ofthat spacial moment. “t was the biggest compliment | have aver been given!" So it's no Surprise thatthe actor fees most comfortable at home with his family that was completed by the arrival of the twins, Darby Galen and Sullivan Patrick, in early 2007. A large farm in Maine, right next to his mother's property, serves as fa quiet retreat for him and his loved ones. This doesn't mean that Dempsey has ever stepped on the brakes when it comes to his ife, As @ matter of fact, his cthor passion is auto racing, a sport whore fragmonts of second make all the diference. It was actually his wie Ji lian who turned him on to this passion by giving him a three-day driver's training course years ago. Sinca thon, he can't shake off the racing virus: “The race track Is where the wheat gets separated from the chatt," Dempsay sala {and he seems to love the inexorabilty of speed that reigns ‘out there on the turns. Starting in 2009, he's been driving race cars for his very ‘own taam, Dempsey Racing. At, for examplo, the lagondary 24-hour Le Mans race where he last scored a respectable 30th place. And even though all he saw of most of his com: petitors was ther taipipes, he mischievously noted, “Even | ‘am getting faster.” He is currently shooting the documatary “Road to Le Mans" for the Discovery channel, a series that highlights the famous car race, I's a topie dear to his heart “OF course, actors lke Paul Newman or Steve McQueen are my idole. They're colleagues who lived out thelr passion for motor sports to its fullest potential.” This year he plans to ‘again be at the starting ine in Le Mans, Aad who knows, maybe someday hell even stop onto the winner's podium, Hard to imagine that this guy won't succeed in whatever he sats out todo. “THE RACE TRACK SEPARATES THE WHEAT FROM THE CHAFF.”INSIDE IwCc THE DESIGNER rexr: MEDARD MEIER PHoTo: DAVID WILLEN For Christian Knoop, 42, passion and protession blend seamlessly. Even as a young boy growing up in Germany's Rhineland, he wanted only one thing: to be: come a designer. Which is what he is today. Ae Associate Di rector Creative Center at IWC. he not only plays a major role In defining the way IWC's six watch families look and feel but ‘also channels his ideas into the thematic worlds that surround them. "It a dream job,” he says openly. “ve designed a lot of fascinating ebjects, but mechanical watches are quite def ritely the most emotional product of them all Emotions and passion are fundamental to his work, but thot Is alse far more to it than those two components. "A re spect for the historic roots of every single watch family is om: ripresent," ne explains "The basic character must remain un changed. Their provenance and history must always bo recognizable.” What follows is a clearly structured and sys: tematic process, with no room for sola performance: “Thara’s {an enormous team effort behind every new waten,” stresses. Knoop. Not least, because one of his sparring partners is IWC. CEO Georges Kern, who is only satistieg witn performance at the very highest love. For all that, the success of really good products cannot be calculated in advance. A new interpretation results from the brand's DNA and is carefully honed for the future. IWC's tract- tional values, which dictate the cstinctly technical, masculine form and purist appeal, are tallor-mace to the designer's ap- proach. So it is scarcely & surprise to learn that his idol is classic erchitect and designer Mies van der Rohe. Alivays im- maculately dressed, in discreet tones of grey, brown and black, Knoop is an ideal representative of everything IWC stands for. Before joining the company, Knoop gamered wide-rang- Ing experience as e product designer and branding specialist with international agencies lke Philips Design in Holland and Hamburg. However, he soon realized that his future dc not le in big corporate structures with hundreds of designers. “What ove about IWC is that it's all under one root,” he continues. "We develop, design and produce everything here in Schatf- hausen. It gives us diract channels of communication with our contacts in the Immediate vicinity. | like being able to act, ‘quickly and directly." ‘Another important phase in his career before IWC was Frog Design in the Black Forest. The founder, Hartmut Ess- linger, is well known as the father of Apple design ~ some- thing it is now hard to imagine the world without. Although the forms are actually relatively simple, he is a great admirer of the technical perfection and aesthetic consistency of the design ideas in all Apple products. But Knoop has no aspirations to create global appeal “The soul and character of cur watches are a reflection of Swiss values.” For him IWC's tradition, combined with the strength of its craftsmanship, is an unbeatable combination. Ina word increasingly dominated by dgitalization, mechani cal watches embody genuine values, longevity and a respect, for traction.” His love of craftemanship is no coincidence. Before om: barking on his studies as an industrial designer in Essen, he had completed an apprenticeship as a cabinetmaker. What he took from that has remained with him to this day. "t's where | learned to pay attention to detail and an understanding for the craftsmanship that is intrinsic to our watches.” The newly designed Ingeniaur family bears witness to this. tis already the fourth collection Knoop has overseen. There are two more before he complotes his frst ful circle of IWC watch families. When Knoop sees customers’ eyes light up as they hold a new watch in their hands for the first time, he knows why he does what he does: “These direct, encounters, when | experience people's genuine interest ‘and enthusiasm, are the greatest compliment anyone can pay mo." In his spare time Knoop is a passionate sailor, preferably fon the opan saa. I fs there that he teas tee, can racharge Nis baattorios and has the best ideas for watches he would stil like to design. Water and air are thus not only elements in the ‘thamatic worlds of IW but also a source of energy and Inspi- ration for the man who creates this particular univers aPHoToNico Rosberg in the cockpit of his MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One car. What do you look for in a watch? NICO ROSBERG: First and foremost the aesthetics. To me, the most impertant requirement for a good-looking watch is simplicity. | don't need it to have lots of different functions and cial; al need it todos tel the time, According to you what is so special about IWC watches? I've liked the brand for almost as long fs | can remember. My father gavo mo an IG watch as a graduation gift wth fan engraved message on the back. | guess | really ike the look and feet of Iwo watches. How important is time in your life? My whole Iife is about time. My job re- volves around time, whather that means being the fastest around one lap, over 1 race distance or on time forall of my ‘meetings and sponsor functions. Every- thing in my life ie planned and the first thing | do during the off-season is ask Imy secretary not to plan anything! More- ver, I don't enjoy traveling in the winter time because I get enough jetlag during the season and is nice to stay in the ‘same time zone for a while. Can you slow down time when you're in the car? (Laughs) | wish! But | do get used to feel- Ing things that can only be measured in tenths of a eecond or even less. Many of the things | comment about when I'm in the car are worth only 0.1 seconds and lam sometimes surprised that | am able to feel it, Even something that is as litle fas 0,05 seconds can make a difference fon track “1AM ALREADY FOCUSED ON THE 2013 FORMULA ONE SEASON RIGHT NOW.” What about speed: does that siow ‘down when you're in the car? Yes it does. You get used to driving at 800 koh and you always have to be carsiul not to break the pitlane speed limit when you come back to the pits. But speed seems different ~ more pre: cisely, faster ~ when you first get back in for the start of testing and you haven't driven the car for a couple of months over the winter. That was certainly the case this year, when | started driving again at the beginning of February. I ike to compare it to a random man on the street who would get into an F1 car, and immediately go flat-out, it’s lke getting into a rocket ship! How important is the relationship between the driver, the team and technology In Formula One? Its very important. But to me, the most important thing is the communication between the three elements. i's the only way to get the best results because noth- ing works individually inthis spor. How has your approach to the ‘sport changed during your seven- year career in FORMULA 1? ve been able to optimize everything With time and experience | have un: derstood what is important and it has allowed me to use less energy and get better results, At the beginning of my 1 career | trained far too much. Now, | only focus on specific tasks. | haveearned how to train my neck the right way, how to eat accordingly. Det is very ‘important because | could put on a lot Cf weight if | didn't pay attention. | prob- ably wouldn't need to do as much run- ning and cycling as 1 do, but |! simply enjoy it $0 | do it anyway. Is your victory in the 2012 Chinese Grand Prix still a vivid memory? It feels lke such a long time ago! A lot has happened since then. Don't get me ‘wrong: winning my first Ft race was a fantastic focling and it was a great mo- ‘ment, but this sport isso fast-paced that {you can't dwellon the past. You're always thinking about the next race and I'm very focused on the 2013 season now. Finish= Ing second in the Monaco Grand Prix in 2011 was another groat result for me and |rememiber every bit ofthat race as vive ily as the Chinese Grand Prix because it was my home race. My friends and family were watching and I drove well it was an ‘amazing race. ‘The 2012 season was the longest in history. How tough was it mentally and physically? By the end of the year | could fee! my ‘energy going down, but it wasn't too bbad from a physical point of view, It was tougher from a mental point of view because our W0S ~ last season's car ~ ‘wasn't competitive during the second half of the year and it was hard turn- ing up to races knowing | didn't have a chance to win. | gave 110 percent all the time, but every driver wants to win 12 challenge to retain your focus. ‘when you know you can't win. ‘and it What have you done over the Jast winter? I did nothing for three weeks after the season and in retrospective that was the ‘wrong thing to do. It set me back a lot physically, s0 | didn't stop training this ‘year. did less specific training for a ow Weeks to give certain muscles a break. bbut | kept exercising; | opt myself busy. ‘Anyway, | lke training! also spent quite f bit of time at the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS factory in Brackley, in the UK, and | always made myself available nico Rossers Nico Resberg neva intended to become {race car criver, The son of Finnish FI champion Keke Rosborg, Nico grew Up preferring tennis over fast cars. °It chance tego racing which eame along ‘nd when the reauite came then my Interest really started to grow alot” Like father ke son, Nico proved to be an ‘acing up in ‘seasons racing forthe Willams FFormala One team, Rosberg in 2010 Joined the re-branded MERCEDES {ANG PETRONAS Formula One Team, winning hs frst Ft Grand Prix in 2012 in China. Rosberg wil stay at [MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS for the 2013 season where he ‘willbe partnered with Lewis Hamiton aller Hamiton signed a thee-year ‘contract with the fon the telephone when | wasn't there. Anything | can do to help performance for this year, | am wiling to do. {Are you looking forward to hhaving Lowis Hamilton as a team: mate in 2013? Absolutely. We've known each other for fjong time and we get on well twill be a fresh challenge for me because he's another quick driver. think we'll make a strong partnership in Ft Have you met many other IWC ambassadors? Last yesh, at the United States Grand Prix in Austin, | mot Patrick Dempsey. He's a cool guy. As well as being a movie star, he's an amateur racing driver anc ‘we had a fun chat. We talked about a lot Cf different things linked with the sport ‘and it sounded like he was a good dri fr! | think he liked seeing the WO2 up ‘close because F1 cars are much smaller than the Grand-Am cars he races, — “DON’T GET ME WRONG: TO WIN MY FIRST Fl RACE WAS A FANTASTIC FEELING AND IT WAS A GREAT MOMENT, BUT THIS SPORT MOVES SO FAST THAT YOU CAN’T DWELL. ON THE PAST.” Nico RosBERGPASSION FOR IWC — THOMAS NAO A MAN IN SEARCH OF COMPLICATIONS Thomas Mao is a man of many passions. A true Epicurean with a wide-ranging skill set and boundless energy. Exhibited In a trenetic work schedule, And a keen interest in dazzling sports cars and exquisite watches Through his website he fosters the dialogue among like-minded collectors. He slowly circles the vehicle, taking in the curvaceous metal body with an intense gaze and then ‘seems to caress the curved arcs of the gull wing doors for | a briet moment. No doubt: this is a man who fal in love with an automobile. “Naturally, @ sports car like this con- veys a lot of emotions," says Thomas Mao, casting one ‘more admiring look at the new Mercedes SLS AMG Black Series, which made its world debut at the 2012 Los Ange: les Auto Show. The design is all muscular puritans: sharp Contours, ready for action to the last fiber, And it comes in 1 dazzling golden yellow. “in China, yellow Is the color of | the emperors,” Thomas Mao says soothingly, eliminating all doubt regarding the color choice. He shoul know: nis ta ther came to America from the Middle Kingdom. ‘As a doctor of psychology, Thomas Mao is well versed with the ins and outs of human obsession, including tha milder form expressed as enthusiasm for eports cers. He's been inflicted with it since he was a child, and it went past the tipping point when, as a studant at UCLA, he acquired his fret Lamborghini, 2 400 GT 2+2, thanks to his earnings 8 a young, brainy upstart at a computer company. His taste for classy sports cars of similar provenance | remained with him his entice fe: Ferrari Testarossa, Lam borghini Diablo. When he heard that Bertone was being forced to sel off @ landmark concept car, he couldn't say ro: “I's an iconic design that was an inspiration for many sports car makers to come, and I felt | had a duty to help preserve this piece of history," Mao says. The legendary vehicle now is on loan to the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles ‘Thomas Mao was able to fulfill his dreame ef fast cars ‘at an early age, thanks to his business acumen, AS a six- year-old, he earned his first money by lending out rara comic books to his classmates for a fee. “It was an allwin 26 = situation." Later, he worked as a financier, management consultant and information technology entrepreneur, “I'm just a very business-mindeo person,” he says, daseriong, somewhat laconicaly, the work ethic that has afforded him the means to indulge his passions. ‘With the same enthusiasm as he collects cars, Mao al ‘0 collects exquisite watches. His earliest acquistion was 8 simple chronograph he saw advertised on the back of ‘one of his comic books. A few years later, he ungraded 10 ‘a Vacheron Constantin. Today Mao is known amang colles- tors as an authority on mechanical watches, especially those with special acoustic functions. His website “ThePur- IstS.com," launched in 1997, and ite successor, “Purist ‘SPro.com,” are global gathering piaces for fans of both fine watches and extraordinary automobiles. "Boing young, | was fascinated by sporty, masculine chronographis,” Mao explains. “Now | prefer watches with minute repeaters because | believe i's the most romantic ‘complication out there, even more so than a tourblion.” Being able to envision an overall theme or even a sort of “greater meaning” in an individual collction is areal talent ~ one he uses when advising other collectors about their choices. Mao sums up the task by noting that it doasn’t matter whether someone has five or five hundred watches, “what's Important is that a collection represents an idea that reflects the ovmer’s penchants and personalty.” Ho's always had a great respect for IWC timepieces. "The watchmakers in Schatfhausen make pure, clean engi- eering designs tne top privity." says Thomas Mzo. True to the famous credo “form follows function” coined by ‘American architect Louis Sullivan, Is ownership important to him? His answer may sur. priso you. Mao s00s himself as an Epicurean, someone Who seeks jole de vivre by relishing every moment, Both for himselt and for others. “I once stopped at an intersection with my Lamborghini. A pedestrian asked me how i felt to drive a car that makes other people happy just by lacking at it" That, muses Thomas Mao, is exactly what the deep: er meaning of his collector's passion ie all about“NATURALLY, SPORTS CARS AND WATCHES CONVEY A LOT OF EMOTIONS.”Crown Royal headgear or watch winder? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www. hautehorlogerie.org own | The winding crown is @ knurled o¢ fluted! baton of varo b and forefinger and used to wind the watch, Som ttn for operating a chronograph mechanism “= | FONDATION oe. HAUTE HORLOGERIE THE FOUNDATION'S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SOHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | SAUME & MERCIER | BOVET | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD (CHRISTOPHE CLARET | CORUM | DE BETHUNE | GREUBEL FORSEY | HARRY WINSTON | HERMES | HUBLOT | IWC | JAEGER.LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC PANERA PARMIGIAN!| PERRELET| PIAGET RICHARD MILLE] ROGER DUBLIS |TAG HEUER] VACHERON CONSTANTIN |VAN CLEEF & ARPELS| ZENITHiwc GULF FILMMAKER AWARD — in an exclusive ceremony, docu ‘mentary filmmaker Maysoon Pachachi was presented with the first IWC Gulf Filmmaker Award for ner movie “Nothing Doing in Baghdad." Tho prigo-giving was part of the Dubai International Film vals (DIFF). The delighted winner also re from WG Schatfhausen with the engraving “For the Love of Cine ma.” DIFF Chairman Abdulhamid Juma praised IW: ed: “We are both humbled and thriles that an esteamed brand such as IWC Schatfhauson has partnered with Us tore alze the laudable goal of facitating the careers of regional artists." Apart from Cate Blanchett, who headed the jury, the ‘more than 300 quests included Academy Award winner and Friond of the Brand Kevin Spacey. Following the and dinner, singing legend Bryan Ferry eat ceived a watch ‘gave an intimate concert that rmously wel received. Moment of oy: Mayscon Pachachi right) expresses hor gratitude forthe IWC Gulf Fimmakor Award. which head ofthe jury Cate Blanchett nas just presented ‘To etr side ofthe actress are ADdulnamid Juma, Chatman of ‘he Dubal International Film Featival af), ang IWC CEO Georges Kern ght)ONE OF IWC’S MOST ICONIC WATCHES 1S POISED FOR A RELAUNCH: INNOVATION AND PROGRESS HAVE BECOME VISIBLE, QUANTIFIABLE FACTORS. AND, TO TOP IT ALL, THERE’S A PARTNERSHIP WITH A TEAM OF INGENIOUS LIKE-THINKERS. Engineers in 2013 are not what they were in 1955. The same could be said of the watches developed, named after them and then exported all over the world by Schatthausen's ilstrious watch manufacturers. Si lives have been transformed by game-changing invontions, from Information technology to aircraft and cars. The challenges have become more complex. New materials and processes have en- ‘abled solutions that were once the stuf of dreams. Performance ‘engineering Is a team-oriented, interdisciplinary process that, has no place for the lone hand. For all that, highly specialized engineers continue to drive progress forward, whether in the shape of high-performance racing cars, within the tiny confines ‘of a high-performance watch movement, or 2 new metal for uso in casemaking, In tha yaar of the Ingenieur, an exciting partnership in motor racing's premium discipline brings the two together. VC's joint venture with the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team bears no relation to advertising in the conventional sense; itis not simply about sticking an IWC logo on the naw Silver Arrow, It Involves substantial technolocical cooperation behind the scenes: learning processes that are of mutual interest to both teams. It has also given special significance to the cooperation between IWC and high-performance automobile manufacturers AMG in Affalterbach. The marriage of like minds is based on AMG's focus on race cars and high-performance sports cars, then, cur ‘and on IWO's development of innovative time machines. It was. ‘also the factor that inspired IWC to propel this iconic watch in- to a new era, Surprises will no doubt follow in the wake of the relaunch, although we are unable to go Into them all here Taking pole position on a grid packed with new products is the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer. Decidedly a sports watch land perfect for motor racing, itis finished in stainless steel, the ame material that housed the original ingenieur. Natural ly, with the advanced stopwatch found In the IWO-manufac- tured 89361 caliber And if you have @ penchant for precision ‘and even finer watchmaking, your best bet is the Ingonicur Double Chronograph Titanium. The split-second chronograph is stil one of the sexiest watchmaking complications of them all. The Ingenieur Automatic, which closely resembles the model designed by Gérald Genta in the 1970s, comes in arel- atively small 40-milimeter case. For several reasons, you could call it the entry-level model to the exclusive watch fam lly fom Schaffhausen ~ a town where the affinity for technolo- ‘ay common to northern Switzerland and southern Germany has a chance to come into its own. But today's Ingenieur is al- '80 at home on a global stage, solving prablems wherever they arise. Hance the development of the Ingeniour Dual Timo Tita rium, with its universally practicable GMT function: an addi tional feature that's every bit as beautiful as its useful, But \Why not see for yourself, —eens Berend One pore rn rentsWITH ITS INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH RACER, IWC ROLLS OUT A TOP-FLIGHT SPORTS TIMEKEEPER: THE WATCH |S A TRIBUTE TO THE MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS FORMULA ONE TEAM. FASTWATCHES — INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH RACER THE NEW INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH RACER IS UNARGUABLY UP IN THE FORMULA 1 FOR AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPHS. Apart trom driving kil, the factor that decides who wins a FORMULA 1 race is @ simple law of phys- les: speed. By definition, speed is the distance travolled by an object divided by the time taken to travel it. In short: it, Today ~ much as 80 years ago when the frst Siiver Arrows hurtled round the racetracks ~ this simple formula con- cceals the technical challange involved in pushing a vehicle to its limits. For both rman and machine. And yet, contronted with the highly complox system that is a race car, engineers stil manage to tease out lust that ite bit more power, a tad ‘more performance and even more safety for the driver The new ingenieur Chronograph Rac- fr from IC is unarguably up in the FOR MULA 1 class for automatic chrono- jraphs. First, t's a genuine Ingeniour ~ the German word for “engineer” ~ which dives Ita cirect lnk with motor racing and the technical wizards behind it. Second, it isthe platiorm for a high-performance timepiece from IWC's workshops in Schatfhausen. The 89361 caliber is one fof the best and most relable movements to be found in @ sports chronograph to- day. Outstanding features include the column wheel and flyback function, even distribution of energy regardless of oper- ating mode, and an exclusive highly eff- cient double-pau! winding system, to name but a few. I i also the reason why the watch is a fiting tribute to WC's partnership with the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team as Official Engineering Partner. It's clear —it we start withthe reverse side from the engraving of a MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS race car on the back. Turn the watch round, and itis obvious from the front ofits satintnished and potshed steel ‘case: the face of the Ingenieur Chrono- raph Racer was designed to be both functional and highly lege. For it comes with the striking luminescent hands found In its predecessor, rinescent hour mark- fers and @ harmonious, nealy arranged di- al. This was made possible by one of the ingenious features of the 89361 caliber: the totalizer in the upper half of the dial shows stopped ours and minutes on two hands like tho time of day. A chronograph has ‘ever been easier to use. ‘The seconds sublal Is located in the lower section of the dal and also Includes 2 date window. That's it then: a cockpit’s worth of instruments forthe wrist. Pressing the two chronograph push- buttons in the side of the case brings all the fascinating potential of the in-house ovement to life ~ alte ke the power of « car engine in response to the accelera- tor. When pressed, the upper startistop button sets the central chronograph hand at 12 o'clock in motion, In the course of a revolution it measures short periods of ‘ime up to 60 seconds and shows speeds between 300 and 60 kph over a mea- sured distance of 1,000 meters on the large tachymeter scale at the edge of the ‘case, If @ stop time Is longer than 60 sec- fonds, the combined hour and minutes Counter in the totalizer at the top of the ‘watch starts running, This keeps track of aggregate times up to 12 hours, ora mul- {ple ofthis, And this itustrates one ofthe ‘movements special strongthe: oven with {he chronograph running, ues no more nergy than fit wore stopped or sutched off allogether. Which means ther is no limit to the time this practical function can 99 used. Anothar equal practical feature 's the tyoack uration This allows the us- 2x to start another stop time as needed Simply pushing the reset button brings the stopwatch hand back to 20 ar im mediately restarts timing was not without read0n, then, that Stefan inven, Associate Drector Research ard Development at IG, cle tis “al ‘ound counter* The orginal tern, “came tout," cofhes from French horological ter- rinology and iteraly means: “everthing counts’. Which, ator ale an incispens- abe function in motor acing ‘But the movement also comes with several ther special facture. Th rotor ie ‘mounted on a spring bridge, which acts a8 an fective shock absorber. The dou- bie-pawl winding aystem s an imoxoved version of IWC's ingenious Pelton auto- mate winding system. it vas designed speci for his watch movement, which nas trequonoy ot 28.800 beats per nour and builds up a 68-hour power reserve So no need for it stons, then The intgreted ste bracelet with a doubly secured button-operated clasp and simple length acstment makes the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer extremely comfortable to wear. Adit you wiht - duce the weight of his lant ofa watch, you should opt forthe sanéwich wristband inrubbor and high-tch tex ‘Whether to go forthe ingenieur Gro- nograph Racer wth the siver plata cial and dark blue hande or the vorsion with the slate-colored dll and rhocurplated hands isa question of personal tas. In ther case, you wil have a timepiece that IWC's engineers have equipped with a host of extraordinary features and qual- es, And which does justice to its con- nections with motor ring Photograph tis page with tho ‘Shorteut Reader app on your smartphone ‘ o99 a presentation af the watch.THE WATCH IWC INGENIEUR CHRONOGRAPH RACER First launched in 1956 with an IWC Schatthausen automatle movement Housed in @ soft-ron Inner ease for protection against magnetic fields, no other watch trom IWC has cemented the ‘company’s reputation for technical expertise as strongly as the first Ingeniour. The newest i eration ~ the Chronograph Racer ~ takes inspiration from the world of FORMULA 1 by utlizing technical materials that make the watches as robust, wearable and functional as possibe. The Cchrenagraph Racer has a white dial, blue hands and classic IWC look: DIAL — SLATECCOLORED DIAL CREF. 1W378S07 AND IWS7aS08)WATCHES — INGENIEUR DOUBLE CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM THE INGENIEUR DOUBLE CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM FEATURES AN UNUSUAL WATCHMAKING COMPLICATION: IT CAN SIMULTANEOUSLY RECORD LAP TIMES AND TIME PIT STOPS WITH DOWN-TO-THE-SECOND PRECISION. SPLIT PERSONALITYWATCHES — INGENIEUR DOUBLE CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM A WORLD PREMIERE THAT MARKS THE BIRTH OF A SECOND DESIGN LINE BASED ON THE INGENIEUR. aster of split seconds: Nico Rosberg in his MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula Ono race ca. Thee iano shortage of sports watches with a chronograph. But only a fow, ike the new WC Ingeniour ‘Chronograph Racer, have a highly legible display like an analogue watch face, with two hands for stoppad times longer then ‘a minute. And the choice of sports chro- rnographs able to Keep track of {wo sepa~ rate events — such as a lap time or tho length of a pit stop ~ is even narrower. ‘This is because the necessary complica- tion ~ @ splt-secondss hand — is relative- ly unusual and sophisticated. Back in the 419808 the company set to work on this old, but rather delicate, mechanism and ‘made it simplor, more robust and ult mately more reliable This split-seconds hand or “double chronograph," as it has been known since then, is now found in the new ingenieur ‘model from the 2013 collection that re- places the former Ref. 3765. Its main foa- tures are as follows: 79420-callber auto- ‘matic movement with a frequency of Hz, 1 46-hour power reserve and an IWC split-saconds mechanism with patented ‘cam switching va the third push-button at 10 o'clock. This additional button pro vides a discreet hint of the ingenieur Dou ‘ble Chronograph Titanium’s timekeeping abiltios, When a timing sequence is start- ‘ed using the start/stop button at 2 o'clock, two stopwatch hands placed one directly above the other set off synchro- ousiy If the spli-seconds button (at 10 o'lock) is pushed, the upper of the two hands is stopped while the lower contin- Les fo run. The start/stop button can be pushed to stop timing and the result sim- ply read off. Alternatively, pushing the spilt-seconds button again causes the split-seconds hand to jump instantly and catch up with the actual chronograph hand. The two then continue to run syr- cchronously again, ‘As thé watch's name suggests, the ‘case - which measures 45 milimeters in e0ee0ee®' :Ce CTC as Sonne Pea a eee eee as 0,000 hours. Another 200,000 haurs went into its design and peered eee ee aed een ee CRE Lac straights they can reach speeds of up to 350 kph. One of the, ee ec ee eel, eer eee my the downforce needed to keep the ear on the road. Even at eee ae ea Ce cay eee on eee Cen eee ee ee Pee ey ‘Over 80 percent ofall the parts in the car aro made of car- Pea ee cece ee SRC ee acc Se ee ne cos ere ee nnn een ee ecco See eee et etee er er rey they are about to overtake, have been permitted since 2011 Se ae an ener eee Ty ere ree enn yearn Ce ea ee ae eee Se errr a err eae c nes tern mre tt is Peer er nines een er eet eee ed pose Serene cen en ene withthe track. In order to withstand the resulting stresses and en cnr e en on steerer mixtures. Combined with the aerodynamically generated downorc foeiroirinie errr resent kit] Cee ete nee eee eraes oe ener ae Sree Cpe sere ener ent eee ir en eet eee ens eerie TT ee eae Peet ean el ee ee er eet eee er et ete) the use of 2.¢lter V8 aspirated engines, Revving to a maximum Pern eaten ere eer Preece reat ere nectar ee) Patek aera ements ene eecrentr niet 9 See ener ie eee eee ean is eee Ure T Oca ee ett pitt tert teer er ent need Leer tencr e Preece inet een ti ear Pree retreats ee) Poteet eeen matinee ns g Pee cere Meee een eT e Baan eet eel ee ore Ree Cee nee eterna MorettiBorers e ts Se eee re cae Pern ery prereset es Cee ee ars rimmed Poneto eet eae Pore evr ete eta toc Ei eee emma ret areas Cece ene eet en eer en en eee een eer eer et a eee ad reenter ener cae na perenne Snes Crescent Serer tere eS See ere ere yer ee rere it erect Snes eres ne ier een ee) ere mere cea the position othe rear wing, distribute braking power between the coer ee mer rr eer rt eta eee ean cor ad rere a era en eee een es eo cee Pres“THE TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCES IN OUR SPORT CAN BE ABSOLUTELY BREATHTAKING AT TIMES.” Preah eee Nt aceJ ea ee RY HEART OF We he ART OF CREATING THE elt et ede od = Hdd or aN att -RA= emeieee 0-1, 0)0) a SECRETIN A SMALL TOWN IN CENTRAL ENGLAND, OVER 500 SPECIALISTS SPEND THEIR TIME DEVELOPING AND BUILDING Te ae one el aa MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS FORMULA ONE TEAM. ALMOST EVERY ONE OF THE 3,200 PARTS IN EACH CAR IS CUSTOM-MADE.Oe Pee cess tae a en Srnec anc euros Se need Pee eure eas Pe eta peer ta ene cou ee ad eae on et ro See ad eee eens rece aca Pico Eun aco Oe Pea aati) eo ee Rr Sea tetany Sree er acces ee eee Ree eee en See ed in March and cut two seconds off lap Se a pal Rose Brawn, describing the chal lenge. There's very litle to separate the top teams in motorsport, and for that eer mo aay Reena Rn te emer nce? Sree ee a CeCe ec eae os pe aeons ieee cel Rete es Cn ee ces eon re) See ee See con Suey Se eens ca eee Pee Cee ree ies eee ee ea ee tt Pee ec eee Internationale de Automobile), which eeu amo they are continuously looking out eG ues Ue eran Pee eee ay “OUR AIM IS TO CUT TWO SECONDS OFF LAP TIME.” Cece Peon nr nyOS eae aay em aCe CeCe Oe or aac ae ene CCRC Ree ard eg ero ‘gram. In Brackley, around 100 aerody- Pee ones eee tcae ee an rca ices pee eee ey eee cd rcs ag Lec Ce Ca arn aca Wena ree eon ec corcs Pee Ce ee ae duced using rapid protoyping on a 3D printer. The wind tunnel is in action Sern eS eed Pec eRe acid See Ones ee eee Pee oT) eter eee Tre NC aed Seon eres Se een See ee oes oe Poot Un cs rofining and producing it. About a hun- Cee ee eas Pe ee Sec Cee cor etc Cre Ce eel fiber, the remaining 20 percent of met like titanium, aluminum and steel. Piece cose part are sent directly from the computor eve eer Rea Se eet a pire unc eay from a block. Like the wind tunnel, they er eC mao) Se arene un Pee i Co ee erry eects ‘The manufacturing process for car- ae ee oe makes a model in epoxy resin, which eee ee eee a “AERODYNAMICS u|5 Ei ello IMPORTANT PARAMETER FOR PERFORMANCE.” Pen) CTS a Seo ene ee a ECE Rene Ray COs eae ek Cec ena etic ee ea ng Cees Den Poe acca Te ars ae ns material's weight and its resilience. See Pema na re ea er ne eee es eect Se eee signers opt for titanium or aluminum Sea Carbon fiber, too, leaves lots of room for flexbilty when it comes to de- See ee etre Cee ct eat Sea Race as all running in the same direction, is very erence ees Sree aes oer ge temperatures up to 1,000° Celsius. A Corea cen ee gee ding on exhausts. Se eae ay also strictly secret, There are currently eet cee uu Sores et macy ee Ce Cee Omens See eC enon iy cae ny cockpit, a steering whee! in thelr hands See ee es Pee ets the effects of future changes to the reg- ee no enna Rees t iece ee aor See es Ceara eu a oc Ce ee cs Se Cae ee road ee Serr) SeesMUST HAVES #8 SeLecreD MR PORTER is the first global cnline retail destination for men’s style, combining editorial content with the best international menswear designers, including Ralph Lauren, Dunhill, Paul Smith and E. Tautz as well as specialist brands such as Car Shoe, Valextra, and Gutler and Gross For the Ingenieur Edition, ma PORTER features a selection of stylish accessories for the auto aficionado with a passion for acceleration and speed Mb a Refine your cold-weather repertore with Dunhil's CASHMERE AND navy ear, Caretlly erattad from a cashmere SILK-BLEND SCARF mulberry eik-bland,thia soft accessory wil BY DUNHILL make a dashing accent to tallored outerwear 3 PERFORATED LEATHER DRIVING GLOVES. BY DUNHILL in 1899, Mr Aifted Dunhill took over his fathers London-based saddle business ang moved the company Into motoring accessories, rebrand: ing with the motto “everything but the can” Staying true tothe brand's values of tradition and cratteman ship, these driving gloves are UK-pradueed from the finest leather. IWc INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC The Ingenieur Automatic s equipped with the rugged, high-precision 80171 calibre. Thanks te a screw-in erown, the timepiece is water-resistant to 12 bat ~ perfect fo the exacting demands of present-day ite5 NEW ROVER STRIPED LEATHER JACKET BY RICK OWENS, Fick Owens eubtly updates the classic leatner a design, Detaled with stripes through the boay and two discreet inseam pockets, this hard-wearing plece has a subtly lured appearance. CLIPPER LEATHER HOLDALL BY MULBERRY SLIM-FIT DISTRESSED DENIM JEANS BY R13 For the globetratter who likes luxurious Juggage, this holdall from Mulberry is a first-class choice, The sumptuous er0se-grain leather and sturdy top handles ‘exude timeless sophistication, while the R13 takes premium denim in @ rakish rection, crafting super-siim fits with expenly distressed detailing. This pair of ‘washed and worn jeans is a super ‘example and exemplifies the rebellious side expanders are easily adjustable hat the New York-based brang Mr Stove MeQuaen proved the in fr Perso foldable "714" sunglasses, 7 we would expect, Finished i n photo POLARIZED FOLDABLE polarized lenses suiabe fr any con 714 52 ACETATE SUNGLASSES ini song squere-tiame desian makes BY PERSOL a sound investment RIBBED ROLLNECK SWEATER BY OLIVER SPENCERFORMULA 1 — THE HELMET PHoros Looking back on a long tradition, the helmet manufacturer Schuberth in Magdeburg has been one of the official FORMULA 1 suppliers since 2000. “The best helmets for the best drivers. is the company's motto. Indeed: Schuber headgear of choice for drivers who have taken a total of five world championships. h's helmets have been theFORMULA 1 — THE HELMET ‘Apart from sponsors logos, Tho test came without warning. A steel spring smashed into the visor and shell of Felipe Mas- a's helmet like a bullet during training for the Hungarian Grand Prix in 2009, when he was traveling at around 270 kph, Massa was immediately knocked unconscious and his car slid uncon- trolled into a pile of tes. But the Brazil- Jan survived His helmet largely withstood the im- pact and absorbed most of the enor- ‘mous amount of energy generated, Massa's protective headgear had done its job. And aftor tho initial fright, the technicians from Schuberth, who sup- ply the helmets, could breathe easily ‘They accompany their drivers to every race and keep three helmets ready for ‘each of them. Each one is unique. streamlined to perfection in the com- Schuberth’s helmets lo room forthe drivers Individual emblishments: sh artist Jone Munser ie only tea happy to oblige to inaividual dasign ideas, pany's own wind tunnel and modeled exactly to the size and needs of the in- dividual drivers, Looking back on a long tradition, the helmet manufacturers in Magda burg nave been official FORMULA 1 suppliers sinco 2000. “The best hel- mets for the best drivers," is the com> ppany's motto. First came Nick Heidfeld, followed by Michael Schumacher. To- day, Schuberth is tne official partner of ‘Seuderia Ferrari with Fernando Alonso ‘and Felipe Massa, but also equips Mer- Ccedes driver Nico Rosberg and the new ‘man at Sauber, Nico Halkonberg. “No money exchanges hands between us and the drivers,” says CEO Marcel Lejeune. It's a win-win situation, Schu- berth get the publicity and the drivers have the reassurance of knowing that thair helmets offer the highest-possible protection to the most vulnerable part of their bodies. “For the drivers it's a question of trust. And for us it's a commitment to thinking of everything that could ac versely affect their safety," says racing helmet technician Sven Krister, who is present at every race weekend. He tends to remain discreetly in the back- ground, but whenever he gets a signal, he springs into action to assist. FOR- MULA 1 drivers have their favorite hel- mets. Nico Rosberg, for instance particularly fond of the helmet he wore for his first victory in China in 2012 ‘Let's use the fast helmet.” he will say, Jokingly. Schuberth itselt almost has a monopoly on winning. Since 2000, its helmets have been fit past the check- fered flag in over 80 races and the head- gear of choice for drivers who havetaken a total of five world champion- ships: Michael Schumacher on four oc casions and Kimi Raikkénen once. The helmets, which weigh less than 1.8 kilograms, are miracles of engineer ing made up of 56 parts, The shell con- siate of 19 layers of carbon fiber and of @ carbor/aramid hybrid composite. These are compacted and cured under ‘enormous pressure and heat in an auto- clave, It is a materials technology used In rocket and aircrait construction. The visor, the most critical point of the hel- met, is manufactured from three-mili- ‘meter-thiek polycarbonate and is reput- ed to be bulletproof. ‘The two anchor points on the hel- met for the HANS (Head and Neck Sup- port System) device must withstand a tensile force of 1.4 tons in laboratory testing. This is rather like hanging 2 “FORMULA 1 IS THE PINNACLE OF ALL WE DO.” Oticial FORMULA 1 suppers ‘since 2000: Marcel Lejoune, Chet ‘Senuberth Gmbit in Magdeburg ‘small car fram each side of the helmet. The HANS device ensures that the driv- ers head Is held firmly even under the Incredibly high centrifugal forces gener- ated by a head-on collision, The system relieves the head and neck of stresses by up to 20 percent ‘Apart from meeting the tensile strength standard, the helmets also have to pass a harc collision test. For this, they are fitted with a dummy’s head made of metal and dropped trom a height of 4.8 meters at a speed of up to 9.5 meters a second onto a pointed steel fod. The outer surtace must remain prac tically undamaged and, insice the hel- met, the impact must not register more than 300 g, oF 300 times the force ot aravity In erash, this would prevent a traumatic brain iniury. These parameters may seem extreme but they do actually ass‘occur, even if only for a fraction of a sec ‘ond, ina crash. As you would expect, al materiale are fireproof and heat-resis- tant, and helmets will withstand temper- atures of up to 740° Celsius unarmed. But even maximum levels of safety Would be of litle use ifthe helmet were not comfortable to wear for hours at a time. The firet ‘seus is ventilation, Driv ‘ers are sometimes confronted with ex- treme temperatures of up to 40° Celsius ‘and relative humidity around the 80-per- ‘cant mark, as in Malaysia. Ten liters of {resh air per second (at 100 kph) need to stream through the helmet, which has air channels to provide optimum distribution. There are ten intake vents in all, including two each on the chin- strap and visor, and six outlet vents The liner padding inside the helmet is a ‘Te two anchor points on the helmet for the visor must withstand a tonsile force ‘of 1.4 tons in laboratory testing, ‘Tiss rather like hanging @ small car from each side of the helmet “FOR THE DRIVERS IT’S A QUESTION OF TRUST.” sclance unto itself. Its exact positioning and size ensure that the driver's head feels as much at home inside the helmet ae his feet in a comfortable pair of house slippers. At the same time, the padded inserts must be able to noutral- ize any impact, Another challenge is guaranteeing the driver unimpeded vi- sion at all times. To achieve this, the vie or has strips of flm stuck onto it, The driver can tear these off instantaneously It they are spattered with rain or mud, ‘even traveling blind at 200 kph. “FORMULA 1 is the pinnacle of all we do,” explains Marcel Lejeune. “Ev- erything we've learned about protective helmets from years of working in areas as different as mining and fietighting, or with the police and armed forces, flows Into It." Schuberth, founded in 1922, started out life as the subsidiary of a brewery in Brunswick and made beer crates. Is line of business was extend- ed alitlo later to include leather camera ceases for Leica and Rollei, The compa- ny's expertise in working leather subse~ quently lad to the production of the lin- Ings for helmets. Today, Schuberth is the markat lead- erin all the leading segments for which protective helmets are needed. Small wonder, then, that Swiss firemen and the Zurich police force wear halmets from Magdeburg when they are in ac- tion. The Swiss army, 100, swears by Schuberth, With 370 employees and state-of-the-art production facilities, the company has an output of up to 2,000 helmets a day. But the statt's real pride and joy are the roughly two dozen high-tech hel- mets, each one unique, made for FOR- MULA 1. They are also the driver's most personal piece of equipment, almost like 4 business card. Apart from sponsors’ Jogos, they stil have a little room for the drivers’ individual embellishments: hel- met designer and airbrush artist Jens ‘Munser is only too happy to abiige. Michae! Schumacher, perfectionist and weight fanatic that he is, was only satisfied when the technicians succeed ted in reducing the weight of the coate of paint to just 84 grams, But that's FOR- MULA 1 for you: a spor of extremes. —SCHAFFHAUSEN SINCE 1868 In the days when the Spit ther shortage of heroes. And where there were hi there without ‘against dropsin ar to the perpetual cale ling of security, Which thanks 1. IWC. Engineered for men. 1 on both sides | Water-resistant 6a | 18YEARS+ DECADES THE SIHH BOOTH 2013 —— buring the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIKH 2013 in Geneva {@tat to 25th January 2013) everything at the IWG Schatihausan booth revolves ‘around the newly designed Ingonicur fom lly and the company’s partnership with MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team (MAP). Over 1000 square meters of floor space are devoted to bringing tne world of FORMULA 1 to life, complete with pits, pit lane and a start/inish straight The booth even has its own wind tune} without which the etreamlined aeredy namics of FORMULA 1 cars would be un- tunkaaie, Two enormous propellers mea. suring 3.50 mators in diameter give vistors an impression of the ways in which the airresistance of a racing car can be ‘optimized. IWC Executive Brand Architect CChils Grainger explains: "Our booth dem- Cnstrates the unusual interface that exists between the engineering in a race car land a FORMULA 1 Grand Prix.” Needless to say, the surroundings establish a natu- ral connection with the watches in the new Ingerieur fami Other exclusive exhibits include the Silver Arrow SLR 300 in which British driving ace Stiling Moss won the 1955 Mille Miglia road race in Italy, and the Mercedes AMG SLS safety car. Equally faschnating Is an MERCEDES AMG PETHO NAS Formula Ono Fi 19 ar gismantlod into its individual parts, which gives visi tors some idea of wat goes on inside a modern race car. —————7- THE ART OF BEING AN ENGINEER AN ESSAY ROLF DOBELLI The engine faltered and cut out. Hunched over his metal baby, Benz wiped the sweat from his forehead with the back of his hand. He twisted a screw here, a bolt there, topped up the fuel and made sure both cylinders were nicely greased. For the hundredth time, he ‘cranked the starting hancle. The engine spluttered into life, chugged longer than it ever had before, kept on chugging ~ yes, it was actually running! In 1879, Karl Benz was granted the patent for it. A few yoars later, he expanded the two-stroke engine into a four-stroke and, in 1886, harnessed it to the worid's first automobile for public sale. Benz the boffin, the practitioner, the doer, had set a milestone. There was no corpus of theory from which he could borrow. Thre were no experts to consult, no taculties of automotive engineering, not even any books. He labored on his inventions for countless hours. He improved them as he went, and honed them to a hitherto unimagined level of excellence. An academic discipline dealing with engine design was not to emerge for several decades. After a construction lead time of four years, the Wright brothers achieved the first-ever powered {light on December 17, 1903. It was a dream come true, for themselves and the human race. They had studied no scientific literature for, in this case again, none existed on their chosen subject. The rudi- ments of aviation engineering theory took another three dacades to develop. At the age of 23, Hans von Ohain built a jet engine at his own expense. The mechanics at the garage where he used to have his car repaired provided the technical support, After years of backroom experimentation, he patented his invention in 1997. In 1939, a jet aircraft took off: another word fist. Whe invented the automatic loom, the steam engine, the electric light bulb, the wristwaton? They were not theorists, not official research laboratories. All were do-it-yourself freaks, self-made men. Ideas, products and skills come about mainly empirically rather than by reading up and thinking through. We did not learn to swim by reading books on the subject. We do not have an economy be- cause of economists. It is not professorships of political science that keep democracy going, In short, Universities do not make a prosperous society; rather, prosparous societies maintain universities be: cause they can afford to do so. In this regard, universities are ike opera houses. Which brings us to the nub of what makes an engineer. The engineer takes up where theory peters out. Stretching the boundaries of known territory, he feels his way, step by step, into the un- known, There are no maps to follow, nor is he a cartographer. No skipper steers him to port, for he skippers himself. No pilot guides him past reefs and shoals. His method is based on trial and error. Much must go wrong before anything comes right. Engineers are practical individuals, They are the makers and shakers, often risk-takers. Their ‘material is the real world, not paper. It is time to restore these creators, experimenters and achievers to celebrity status, for we have neglected them far too long, Our celebs are managers, film stars, sports personalities, governors of central banks, hedge fund managers, chiof executive officers. But when did we last have a celebrity engineer? And do they stil play any role at all? The answer is striking look around you. How many of the things you can see in your room were developed from book knowl-edge? And how many by trial and error? How many of the things around you are the result of grand strategic planning, and how many the fruit of passion? Which is the oeuvre of the so-called managers, land which the work of the backroom boys? Plainly, everything you can see In your roam is the result of countless thousands of hours of engineering work - from your ballpoint pen to the design of your table to the light bulb above your head. The programs that run on your computer, the apps on your iPhone: all are inventive work. ‘So what has become of our admiration for these feats? Where is our esteem for “practical star: dom"? Perhaps this lack of regard derives from the engineers’ anonymity. Thomas Edison announced a hundred years ago: “There is no organization. | am the organization.” Leonardo da Vinei would have put it no differently: | am the genius! It is not possible to say that nowadays. Engineering work has become teamwork, and engineers as individuals have vanished off our radar. Take a look at a FORMULA 1 race car. There is an engine, a cockpit, a nose, axles, tires, a steering wheel, a gear change, a braking system and much more. In an ordinary car, such as you or | rive dally, the Individual components are assembled rather like Lego bricks. If you are an engineer, you cen modify the chassis without affecting the engine capacity, You can modify the tires without af- fecting the ignition. A racing car is very different. A FORMULA 1 vehicle Is no Lego construct, but an ‘organic whole. If you are its engineer, and opt for a different type of paintwork, you now have to adjust the acceleration from standstil and the tread of the tires. I you increase the engine speed, you now have to modify the fuel injector. Alter the injector, and you have to rethink clutch performance. Tinker with the clutch, and you have affected the optimum wheel slip ~ the ratio of speed of rotation of the drive wheel to speed of travel. Everything hangs together. Everything interacts. Or, to borrow @ quota~ tion from biology, "you can never just change one thing.” THE ENGINEER TAKES UP WHERE THEORY PETERS OUT. —— The knack of connected thinking is what distinguishes the modern engi- reer from the geek. A geek is obsessed with one subject. He may know everything about cylinder head optimization, but that is the sum total of his knowledge. Everything beyond cylinder head optimization is of no intorest to him. An engineer, by contrast, may be a world-beater in his discipline, but always retains a view of the whole. He knows his work must dovetail with that of engineers from dlfferent dis: ciplines. That is the only way to achieve uncompromising perfection. Rolf Dobe is «writer and philotopher. He gainad a octorate in business administration a the University of ‘St. Gallen andi tho founder of ZURICH MINDS. a communty of the wore’ leading thinkars and scientists His two books “The Art of Thinking Cleary" and “The Art of Acting Geary” have topped the international bestsellers for monthsMR. NICK FRY THE TEAM LEADERHe's got one of the best jobs of them all. At least in the ‘eyes of ever 500 milion motorsport fans worldwide. British-born Nick Fry is the (CEO at the MERCEDES ANG PETRONAS Formula One Team. Even as a young boy, Fry was fascinated by motor rac: Ing. His father, a sports journalist, regu- larly took him along to racing ov After studying economics at the Univer sity of Wales, Fry had the choice of a career in either consumer goods or the automobile industry, "Needless to say | went for the cars,” he says, grinning From 1977 on, he worked in various ca pacities for companies ike Ford and As: ton Martin before finding his way into motor spert through the Prodrive raco team. Finally, twelve years ago, he got into motor racing’s premier category when he was appointed Managing Di rector of the BAR Ft team, ‘Today, Nick Fry works with Ross Brawn ‘and Niki Lauda to guide the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. The division of labor is quite clear. As Team Principal, FORMULA 1 legend Ross Brawn, founder of the team tor- merly known as Brawn GP, is responsi ble for all the technological aspects of the car as well as ongoing develop ment. Niki Lauda is the team's Chair man of the Board creating an effective connection with the team’s owners, Daimler AG. As CEO, Nik Fry is primar ily in charge of the business side of the team including marketing, commerical partnerships and finance. You have to be a jack ofall trades in this job, he ex: plains: “You need an all-round com mand of leadership, finance, law and human resources as well as the ability to manage complex projects within very tight deadlines,” is how he sums up its requirements. Over 500 people work at the MERCEDES AMG PETRONAS head- quarters in Brackley, around 250 of them highly qualities engineers. This pputs special damands on the leadership qualities. "Engineers at this high level think logically and are extremely intlli- ‘ont, But thay can sometimes be sur- prisingly emotional.” “THE PROGRESS BEING MADE IN FORMULA 1 TECHN OLOGY IS SIMPLY AMAZING.” Nick Fry ie adamant that ‘motorsport can be sustainable as wll ning During his career in motorsport, the 56-year-old has experienced countless highlights. One of his most vivid memo ries is of winning the World Rally Cham pilonships in 2001 with the Subaru World Rally Team and its exceptionally talent ed driver Richard Burns. Following this, ‘Burn signed for Peugeot with the inten- tion of returning to Subaru. But it was rot to be: Burns died in 2005, aged just 34, of a brain tumor. "It's particularly tragic when an individual with that kindof talent is robbed of his life at the peak of his career.” says Fry in retrospect. With Brawn GP, he also experienced Jenson Button's moment of triumph when he was crowned FORMULA 1 world champion in 2009. And with Nico Rosberg's win at the Chinese Grand Prix In 2012, Fry was also on the spot for the first Grand Prix victory by a Mercedes driver in 87 years. Fry Is also fascinated by the fact that FORMULA 1 is in a state of con- stant evolution and continues to devel- ‘op. "The progress being made in tech- nology ~ particularly materials ~ ie sim ply incredible. Carbon fiber suspensions are standard today but would have been unthinkablo just a few years ago.” There have also been sweeping improvements in safety for the drivers ang the people who work closely with them and the ‘cars. You can't afford to forget that a car traveling at 300 kph is potentially lathal Fry is also impressed by the sport's in- creasingly worldwide significance. “Ten years ago, only two races were held in Asia but today there are six.” Transport- Ing the people and the materiais from fone venus to the next is @ major logisti- cal challenge. But Fry considers that Nicholas Richard “Nick” Fry has been the GEO ofthe MERCEDES AMG PPETRONAS Formula One Team ince 2010, His career in motoring started withthe Fora Motor Company in company was uncer Ford ownership. Fry joinec Procrive as Managing Director in January 200% where he was responsible fr leading tho company’s xpantion into outsources engineering Services. In January 2002, ho was ‘appointed Managing Director of BAR Ft In addition to his Prodrive eesponsioil: tice Fry achioved his ist victory ‘as Managing Director ofa FORMULA 1 team when Jenson Button 100k the chequered flag at the 2006 Hungarian ‘rand Prix “IN OUR BUSINESS, YOU NEED LEADERSHIP AS WELL AS THE ABILITY TO MANAGE PROJECTS WITHIN VERY TIGHT DEADLINES.” being able to take the world’s biggest and best motor sport show to new mar kets like Singapore, Abu Dhabi and In- dia represents a unique opportunity Perhaps the most important issue for the future of motorsport is energy sf- ficiency, Here, FORMULA 1 clearly has leading role to fulfil. “The entire auto- ‘mative industry is moving in this direc tion. Which is why the industry's tach~ nology leaders like ourselves simply can't afford to close thelr eyes to these dovelopments," says Fry. Here, for in- stance, he is thinking of KERS, the ki- netic energy recovery system. in FOR- MULA 1 care, the energy generated when braking Is converted into electric: iy and temporarily stored in a battery: ‘Ata later point, just prior to overtaking, ‘say, the driver can push the boost but ton on the steering wheel to access a source of extra power. Systems like these first came into use in 2007 but back then weighed over 100 kilograms. Today, a typical KERS weighs just 25 ki Jograms and is considerably more effi- cient. Tho know-how acquired by Mer- codes AMG High Performance Power- trains during the development of the hybrid eyetem now flows into a fully electricity-powered series production vehicle, the Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG E-Coll. “It's an excellent example of how the technologies developed for use In FORMULA 1 find their way into other applications,” expleins Fr. ‘But that Is by no means all the sport is doing in the interest of environment fioncliness. As early as 2014, FORMU LA 1 Is scheduled to Introduce @ source-saving engine with a capacity of just 1.6 liters, At the same time, the ERS output will be increased by practi- cally tenfold. "We're constantly trying to Increase the percentage of electricity Used in the powertrain,” explains Fry. He Continues: “We're changing so much in this sport at an incredible speed. Some- time people don't like what they see at first. But even things that seem com pletely off the wall day will seem abso lutely normal to even dyed-in-the-wool enthusiasts in ten years! timo.”A MAN WITH A STELLAR REPUTATION: NIALL FERGUSON IS PROFESSOR OF HISTORY AT HARVARD UNIVERSITY. BUT TO MERELY DESCRIBE HIM AS AN ACADEMIC WOULDN’T DO JUSTICE TO HIS LOFTY POSITION WITHIN THE INTELLECTUAL FIRMAMENT. A CONVERSATION WITH ONE OF THE MOST CELEBRATED - AND MOST CONTROVERSIAL - SCHOLARS OF OUR TIMES.“THE WEST STILL HAS AN EDGE IN POLITICAL PLURALISM, COMMERCIAL COMPETITION, SCIENTIFIC DEVELOPMENT AND MEDICAL ADVANCES.” Professor Ferguson, you are not only a conservative intolloctual but also “blessed with British charm and articulateness,” as one commentator wrote. How difficult do these attributes make it for you to be heard in the public debate in the United States? PROFESSOR NIALL FERGUSON: (Laughs) Well, the dis- ‘course in America and many other Western countries defintely, ‘seems to have been dominated over the last couple of years, by liberal voices and their “political correctness.” If you are try- ing to articulate a vision ofthis world that does not necessarily conform to the majority opinion of many of my colleagues in the academic fleld, you definitely run into some road blocks ‘once ina while, ‘But from a point of “supply and demand” you certainly seem to be in a sweet spot: In an era when many conservatives in the United States have discredited themselves through extreme positions, there has been 1 great need for credible intellectuals on the right. ‘And you have been one of the few conservative intellec- tuals to step up to the plate. | have stopped up because | believe the stakes are so high, ‘The United States under the current president has been a ‘super power in retreat. Just look at the debt burden under which the country is laboring. In 2011, United States public, debt-t0-GDP ratio was about 100 percent ~ that's a preity big, number historically. Parallel to that, China's gross domestic product will most likely overtake the United States’ within this decade, Does that necessarily have to be a bad thing? China has 1.3 billion people, the United States has 300 million It will change global politics ina profound way. China’s leaders {are already saying that there willno longer be a world centered, around the profligate United States and there has to be a new International financial architecture. They do think more histor cally than Western leaders do and they are acutely aware that, {great shitts in power happen. And they must sense that the current crisis does accelerate tne process whereby power Is, transferred from West to East What does that mean for the process of globalization? In your book “The Ascent of Money" you suggest that we could be facing a global disorder of the sort that could reverse globalization and even set the stage for wars. Globalization takes a while to start and get established. It took {decades to get from the highly regulated economies of the 1970s, to the free-wheeling, highly globalized economies of 2007. It takos a lot less time to destroy globalization. We found that cut, before. Globalization from the 1870s to 1914 was a pretty spec- tacular achievement with few reversals. When it reversed, itre- versed at afar faster speed. And that's what worries me. You've argued that the United States should continue to bo a great force for good in the world, as it has beon at different junctures. Is the potential still there? | have become more pessimistic about what the United States, can do. My analysis always was that if the United States was, going to have a problem of overstretch, it would be domestic, land would have to da with excessive debt. The United States is not likely to be as successful a liberal empire as Britain, partly because itis so heavily reliant on foreign capital ‘Are we looking at the start of an American decline? Not quite, in the sense that the last crisis affects others worse. than the United States. It certainly affected Europe worse. Power is relative. In that sense it's all very unfair because it looks like the crisis was made in America but it hurt more or less everybody else - except China - more than the United States. Meanwhile what's unquestionably likely to happen is, that China, provided it doasn’t succumb to some unexpect ed bout of instability, becomes something more like an equal partner, oF rival. So you end up with a world with two major Powers, one of which Is the United States, and the other of wihich is China, Is it conceivable that the dominance of the West might ‘bo completely over one day? | don't think so, The West stil has an edge in political plu- ralism, commercial competition, scientific davelapment, and ‘medical advances, Most of al, the West maintains the freedom and creativity to lead global civilization, The current financial crisis and the series of previous crises over the past century raise the question: [s globaliza- tion chronically crisis prone? Further, is a downside of globalization that the market periodically blows up?It may be that ae financial markets and global supply chains. have been driven to maximize efficiency, they have become more fragile, The author Nassim Nicholas Taleb has written that “a flat world is over-optimized to the point of maximum vulnerability.” The interconnected, globalized world may work. well in normal, stable times. But because this world has no, slack, if or when the unexpected occurs—which it invariably, does crises result Business and political leaders are often surprised by crisos. Is it because they don’t take a long enough view of history? ‘Yes, one reason may be attributed to a “black swan” way of thinking. Because most people have never personally seen a black swan, they have a tough time actually believing that such ‘a swan even axiate, It's the same story with really big financial Crises: people have a difficult time imagining events that they have not experienced personally That's what we have historians like you for! (Laughs) Interestinaly enough, the most influential book to come out of the latest financial crisis has been “This Time is Different" by my Harvard colleagues Carmen M. Reinhart and Kenneth S. Rogoff. Although they are both economists, this was essentially @ work of history, looking at financial crises ver eight hundred years, So the phrase “all time has different meanings to different people” definitely applies? Nowhere was the failure to take a long-term view more acute than in the riok modele used by thoee on Wall Strat. Such mod- tls often used just five years of data, and made assumptions, that eliminated rare low-probabilty/high-risk events - providing ‘an inaccurate and overly optimistic perspective. Ideally. think you need to work with 100 or 200 years of data. Itis impossible, to predict exactly when a financial crisis will cour and what its magnitude will be, but it's reasonable to assume that thoro ‘will be another major financial crisis in the next 10 to 20 years. Does this “long-term view" also reflect your attituds towards time? How does your personal time management 00k like? Perhaps this is why | am a historian: | am obsessed with time, Fight down to the minute, | am inclined to try to cram far too much into any given day, and this only works if the timing is perfect from the moment | wake up until the moment | turn out the lignt. This means 1 look at my watch ~ and my calendar — rather more often than ie entirely norm Dia you develop @ more pessimistic view of the world over the years? ‘An old proverb says that the nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being elther proven right or pleas ‘antly surprised. | would fully subseribe to that “| AM OBSESSED WITH TIME, RIGHT DOWN TO THE MINUTE. | LOOK AT MY WATCH RATHER MORE OFTEN THAN IS ENTIRELY NORMAL.” ‘At age 48, Niall Ferguson fs the author of numerous highly ‘acclaimed books, works such as "Virtual History ‘Aternatives and Counterfactuais" (1997), “The Cash Nexus: ‘Money and Powar inthe Modern World, 1700-2000" (200), "Colossus: The Rise and Fall ofthe American Empire” (2008) ‘or-The Ascent of Money: A Financial History of ‘the Worl (2008), Ferguson has written and presented five imajor olevision serie, including "The Ascent of Money, Twhich won the 2008 International Emmy Award for ‘Best Documentary. His most recent book i "Civilization: “The West and the Rest also a major TV documentary sete, A weekly columnist for Nowewook anda contibut ing editor for Bloomberg TV, Niall Ferguson divides his time betwoon the United States and the United Kingdom, He currently working on a blograpy of Henry Kissinger. ‘The film, based on his interviews with Kissinger, won the 2011 Now York Film Festival award for Best Dacumen: tary. n 2004, TIME Magazine named him as one of the 100 most itugntal people inthe word. In 2011, he marred the former Dutoh MP and feminist activist Ayaan irs Ali, who gave bith to thelr son in December 201,NICHOLAS FOULKES ‘The sculptor. designer is 2 phenomenon. Even Ifyou are not at all design literate you wil know him by reputation, His name has become a synonym for severly. His work is immediately recognzable for its uncompromising anguiarty. Every piace of work that he creates ~ whether itis a ‘yacht or a yoghurt carton, a telephone ora teapot ~ is charac: terised by the absence ofthe curvilinear ~ is furiture designs. fare famous, even if his chairs are far from comfortable to use. orn in France in the 1950s, his father was an influential art otc, his mothor a moderately successful playwright. And itis to their iviuence that he owes the path his life took. His parents were very frienaly with the artist Barnard Buffet and one summer ‘when the eculptor-deeigner wae not yet in hs toone, thay want to spend the summer at the Buffet Chateau in Provence. The Junkyarc-ike chaos of the artist's stualo, whara he was working on giant sculptures of butterfies, and the uncompromising an juiarty ofthe Buttet style made a ifelong impression, ‘A high flyer, ne attended the Lycee Louls-le-Grand and fgraduated from the Ecole Polytechnique. Then surprised his {amily by becoming apprenticed to a welder and lezrning abo baller making. However, this was no calculated act of youth rebelion (even though he had been just old enough to be out on the streets of Pais in the sorng of 1968, throwing cobblestones at polce and entering into the Revolutionary spin ofthe time). He ‘anted to learn about metals from ling and working with them ‘on a dally basis, and some of his early work feeturing his now instantly recognisable razor edge styling is among some of the ‘most sought-after inthe entire canon of contemporary design. During this period of his fe he made two large tables, these ‘cost him throe years and numerous cuts and gashes, but in the ‘end he achieved the result he sought, edges that were quite literally sharp enough to shave win and legs that tepered ‘smoothly unt they became lke the points of compasses, thay destroyed parquet floors and tore the clothes of those who sat fat them and inthe mio 1970s wece writen off as being nothing more than wilful eccentricity. Today one i in the permanent co! lection of the Musee des Arts Decoratis in Paris and the other ‘501d for $1.7 milion in a recent sale at Philips - Simon de Pury ‘was an early advocate of his work, educating international co: lectors that these are not piaces of furniture inthe conventional ‘sonse of the tern, ut works of sculpture that somehow ra- 0 - COLUMN THE SCULPTOR-DESIGNER ‘semble @ place of furiture ~ a subtle but important dltferance, [At about the same time he creatdd a series of sculptures using ‘ound objects, mostly tin cans welded together (an ironic com= ‘mentary cn the work of Warhol) ther torn and jagged edges protruding ike the leaves and spines of a metal cactus. The show 1was all the more powerful because It was not held ina conven- tional gallery but na Paris scrapyard, The photographs taken of ‘the event in late 1976, he is to be seen in one picture lighting a Gitanes with alow torch, show the sculptor-designer much as he remains to today; with his close cropped hal, overalls and cigarette seemingly goneticall attached to his lower lip. “The provocative nature of his work (and atte infuence from his father who by then was a close adviser tothe nevily appointed French Culture Winister Franco'se Giroud) succeeded in getting him noticed by a few avant-garde pubications by whom ha was dubbed *Le Punk de Junk” (ater alt waa the autumn of 1976). indeed it was atthe suggestion of the French Ministry of Cuiture tate submitted a design for cutlery for use on board the Con- corde. Although his designs fallod to got approval (not least bo- ‘cause the handles were just as sharp 2s the bladed elements), he acquired an international reputation and began working with such ‘noted ercitects and engineers as Paul Andreu, Richard Rogers, "Norman Foster and Jean Nouvel, and today the pavilions ne de- signs atthe major art fais and bennales around the world are a ‘emia part of the international artscape, Luke Butt ne has remained true to his hard-edged style and he has welcomed the aval of such materials 2s carbon fiber as thas enabled to work to ever finer tolerances, creating furniture cof papery thinness witn edges of gullotin-tka sharpness ~ fold his portable sun lounger incorrectly and you could find yours losing a finger or two. ‘Success has not really changed him, unless you count the Pravancal Chateau, the world class collection of Buffet pictures and the new Ingeniour that gints from his wrist, The gold incices. fare a famboyant touch that ha secraty rather kas, along witn the solidity and anguiarty ofthe bracelet. Just one thing bothers him ... the bezel i abit too, wel, circular fr his liking, Nicholas Foulkes ie an euthor historian and journal His most recent book, “Bal: Legencary Costume Balls ofthe “wentiath Century.” is published by Assoulne“EVERY PIECE OF HIS WORK IS CHARACTERISED BY THE ABSENCE OF THE CURVILINEAR. HIS FURNITURE DESIGNS ARE FAMOUS ALL OVER THE WORLD, EVEN IF HIS CHAIRS ARE FAR FROM COMFORTABLE TO USE.”COMPETITION — GUESS WHO? THE ARTIST MECHANIC He was so fascinated by motor racing and race cars that for years he planned his diary around the FORMULA 1 GRAND PRIK timetable. He traveled to watch races all over the world, He was even frlends with a racing driver who had been born in the same town as he was. His wife, an artist in her own right with distinctly feminist leanings, made no secret of her disgruntiemont about her car-crazy husband's obsoscion Ho wee an artiat of world standing. From the mid-20th century, he caused a storm as a significant inventor and reformer, particularly of kinatic art, and as a driving force fon the international art scene. His global fame was due mainly to his metamechanical creations: great clanking machines that had na rational sense or purpose, His aud ences have always been intrigued by the droll posticism radiated by his, often huge, iron sculptures. Many of his works are on public display, mainly in Eu- fope but also In the United States. However, a large part of his oeuvre is housed in a museum devoted to him and his work that was opened five years after his death. A large new exhibition currently on show there provides ‘comprehensive ovarview of his achievement, One of the exhibits ie a monumental mobile eculpture that the artist assembled {rom bits of two real FORMULA 1 cars driven in the 1983 season by lator World Champion Alain Prost of France and the U.S. driver Eddie Cheever. wine was he? HANSPETER EGGENBERGER THE INGENIEUR KIT ANSWERS, PLEASE, BY APRIL 6, 2015, TO: Duktus AG, WATCH Competition, 0, Box 8083, 2048 Zurch, Swizeranc or ermal fo: waton@ouKtus.ch Please note your address and telephone number. Entis restricted to one per person. Comet entries wil go into a draw for the folowing ries: AST: IWC INGENIEUR TABLE cLock No possibity of recourse to lege action. No correspondence il be entered int. ‘The name of tho mystry person and wirners an be found ten days ater the closing ‘date for entries on the NVC Web sit at Www.iWe.com/NEws comperition no. 4/2012 ESS reccoz1eWATCH INTERNATIONAL GOES iPAD HE iPAD UpitioN