COURSE TITLE: Apparel Manufacturing IV.

COURSE CODE: TE 405A.

ASSINGMENT NAME: Mid Term Examination (Assignment).

DATE OF PERFORMANCE: 11 -11- 2020.

DATE OF SUBMISSION: 25- 11-2020.

SUBMITTED TO : SUBMITTED BY :
Name : Mr.Md. Mazharul Helal. Name : Moklesur Rahman
Designation : Lecturer. ID : 181014018
Department of : Textile Batch No : 181
Green University of Bangladesh Department of : Textile Engineering
Green University of Bangladesh
1. Compare in between individual and factory production system of
garments.

Answer to the question No : 01

Garment Production/Garment Assembly:

Garments assembly is a basic requirement of clothing and fashion design which

involves a conversion of raw materials into a stitched and wearable piece of
clothing. To make a complete garment assembling is required for different parts of
a garment. The front and the back body, yoke, sleeve, collar, cuff, placket, and
pocket need to be assembled together in order to make a basic shirt.

Fig: Layout & Workflow

Garments Production System

Production systems are needed to enable companies to produce the largest number
of products effectively and efficiently for the lowest cost but at the required
quality. Garments production system is an integration of materials handling,
production processes, personnel, and equipment’s that direct workflow and
generate finished products. Simply, it is a way how the two-dimensional fabric is
being converted into a three-dimensional garment in a manufacturing system.
Garments can be made by applying different types of system. The garment
production system used by an individual or in small tailor shops is different from
the systems used in the factories. Two systems are described bellows-

1) Individual System:
It is the traditional method of production in which one operator or small team is
made one complete garment at the time by carrying out all the sewing processes
necessary to assemble a garment. The operator can also make a pattern and cut the
fabric according to his or her own method of work. After completion of assembling
one single garment, the operator will start assembling the next one and so on. This
type of garment assembly system is effective when varieties of garments are
required to be produced in very small quantities. The individual system of
assembling garment is more common with homemakers, local tailors, boutiques,
etc.

Fig: Individual System

Advantage and Disadvantage of Individual System –

Advantage:
It has a quick throughput time and easy to supervise.
There is no WIP in make through.
No problem of absenteeism

Disadvantages:
High labour cost
Multi-skilled operator is required for assembling
Low productivity
This system is limited to couture and sample making
2) Factory Production System:

When products are made in a factory, there will be a system to ensure everything
runs smoothly. These are generally referred to as production systems. Several
different production systems are used in the apparel industry for assembling a
garment. The choice of best production system depends on the type of product,
number of product to be made, when the products are needed, the size of the
factory, the skills of the employees. The most commonly used types of production
systems in the garment industry are:

i. Progressive Bundle System (PBS)

ii. Unit Production System (UPS)
iii. Modular Production System (MPS)

But The two main types of assembly line production system followed in the
industries are:

1. Progressive bundle systems (PBS)

2. Unit production system

Progressive Bundle System (PBS):

The progressive bundle system is a traditional production system that has been
widely used in the apparel industries for many decades and still is today. In this
system bundles of garments parts are moved in sequence from one sewing machine
operator to the next. Each worker receives a bundle of unfinished garments and
performs a single operation on each garment in the bundle. After finished of
his/her work on a bundle, they are re-tied the bundle and passed on to the next
operator. Each PBS task is given a target time or “SAM” (Standard Allowed
Minutes). The success of PBS depends on how the production system is set up and
used in a plant
 Fig: Progressive Bundle System.

Advantages of the PBS of garment production:

1. This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garment

production machines, as output from one special purpose automated garment
machine may be able to supply several garment machine operators for the next
operation.
2. Small garment bundles will allow faster throughput until and unless there
are any bottlenecks or long lead times within operations.
Disadvantages of PBS of garment production:

1. The PBS is cost-efficient for individual garment operations. As the

garment operators perform the operation on a daily basis it allows them to
increase their speed and productivity, and as a result they are not willing to
learn a new garment operation because it reduces their efficiency and earnings.
2. Operators working in a PBS of garment production are independent of
other operators and the final product.
3. Absenteeism, machine failure, and slow processing are also some major
bottlenecks in this system.
4. WIP is seen in large quantities in this production system, which leads to
longer lead times.
5. Poor quality of garments are seen in bundles, which were hidden because
of large inventories in the work process.
6. Leads to extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory in the
garment industry.
7. Line balancing becomes difficult most of the time.
 8. Proper planning is requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a
lot of time.
9. Improper planning leads to poor labor turnover, poor quality and less
production.
10. Variety of styles of lesser quantity are not effective in this system.

Unit Production System (UPS):

The unit production system (UPS) for apparel industries is a flexible material
handling system that requires a computerized overhead transportation system to
move the garment components automatically from one workstation to the next
according to a pre-determined sequence. It replaces the traditional garment
production system of handing, bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving
garment parts. It provides uninterrupted workflow to the workers and helps to
improve work efficiency and product quality. In the fast-moving fashion and
apparel industry this is highly essential.

Fig: Unit Production System.

Advantages of the UPS of garment production:

1. Bundle handling system is completely eliminated.

2. Time involved in the pick up and drop is reduced to a minimum.
3. Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the
work.
4. Computerized systems in this UPS automatically balance the work
between two work stations.
5. Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.
Disadvantages of the UPS of garment production:

1. UPS requires high investments where the payback period is long.

2. Planning needs to be effective every time.
3. Sometimes the orderly and controlled flow of work via computerized
control of the whole production process becomes difficult to measure.

Comparison between the PBS and the UPS:

In garment manufacturing companies various types of sewing systems are

installed. The owner of an apparel manufacturing unit buys these systems
depending on the production volume, product variety, and the cost involved in
buying and maintaining these machines. Among them the PBS is the mostly
installed sewing system to date. In this system, the bundles of cut pieces are moved
manually on the feeding line by the helpers. The operators drag the bundles on
their own, finish their required operation, and move forward to the next operator.
With advancement in technology, mechanical material transport systems are
bought in. An overhead transport system, UPS, is the one that transports cut pieces
hanged in hangers (one hanger for one piece) by an automated system. It reduces
manual transport and handling and has many other benefits over the PBS.

Modular Production System:

Modular production system involves a group of 4-17 people who set their own
standards and work together to produce a finished garment. They work as a team or
module and each team member works on more than one operation. In this system,
operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and the team is fully
responsible for the production and quality. The number of teams in a plant varies
with the need of the industry, size of the industry and product line in
garments. This system MPS is the perfect solution for the apparel manufacturer
where quick response is needed. This system is also popular as a Cellular Garment
Manufacturing, flexible work groups or Toyota Sewing System (TSS).
 Fig: Modular Production System
Features of a modular production system:

 Unconstrained to work with the operators.

 In one workstation, the workers/operators should be able to perform the
operations in different sewing machines in a highly skilled manner.
 In this modular production system, in-line inspection locations are
constructed into the production line so that the inspector could be able to return
the defective garment panel to the concerned operator through the system.
 Productivity is high in this production system since the operator handles
the garment only once for several operations, instead of handling it for every
operation.
 Only a few garments will be processed in the particular production line as
the throughput time is less in this system.
 A modular production system module could have up to eight work stations
positioned around the transport system.

Advantages of a modular garment production system:

1. High flexibility
2. Fast throughput times
3. Low wastages
4. Reduced absenteeism
5. Reduced repetitive motion ailments
6. Operator ownership of the production process is high
7. Empowered employees
8. Improved quality of product

Disadvantages of a modular garments production system:

  A high capital investment in equipment
 High investment in initial training
 High cost incurred in continued training

Evaluation of garments production systems:

The evaluation of garment production systems can be done by taking into

consideration four primary factors such as

1. Processing time: It is the total working time of all the processes involved
in assembling a garment.
2. Transportation time: It is the total time consumed for movement of semi
finished or finished garments from one workstation or department to another.
3. Waiting time of unfinished garments: It is the idle time of a work bundle
when it waits for the next operation.
4. Inspection time: It is time taken for in-process inspection of semi finished
garments or final inspection of finished garments before packing.

The choice of best apparel production system will depend on the product and
policies of the company and on the capacities of manpower. The main goal of all
the production systems is to decrease the total production time which leads to
reduction in inventory cost. The appropriate selection of a suitable garment
production system for an industry is influenced by the product style and policies of
the industry and on the labour capacity. The cost of inventory decides the choice of
a production system in most circumstances in an apparel industry. When material,
labor, space and interest costs are high, a synchronized subassembly system, which
gives the minimum possible in-process inventory, is more suitable.

2. Identify different types of Garments production system used in the

factories.
Answer to the question No: 02

The garment production systems are a combination of production processes,

materials handling, personnel and equipment that direct workflow and produce
finished garments. It is a system that depicts how the two-dimensional fabric is
transformed into a three-dimensional garment in a manufacturing system. The
names of the production systems are based on the various factors like utilization of
a number of machines to assemble a garment, layout of machines, total number of
operators involved to produce a garment and number of pieces moving in a
production line during the production of a garment.

Each garment production system needs a suitable management philosophy,

materials handling procedures, plant layout for garments spreading and worker
training. The garment industry could combine various production systems to
achieve their specific garments’ production needs like utilizing only one
production system or a combination of different systems for one product style.
Designing production system ensures the coordination of various production
activities. There is no particular production system that is universally accepted, yet
there are different types of production systems followed by different organizations
as discussed in the following section.

Production systems used in apparel manufacturing:

The objectives of garment production systems are:

1. Examine the features of different kinds of garment production systems

2. Compare and contrast the different production systems
3. Assess and critically relate the merits and demerits of utilization of
different production systems in various circumstances

Types of garment production systems:

The different types of production systems are distinct and require different
conditions for working. However, they should meet the two basic objectives, that
is, to meet the specification of the final product and to be cost-effective in nature.
The main aim of any production system is to achieve a minimum possible total
production time. This automatically reduces in-process inventory and its cost. The
subassembly system reduces temporary storage time to zero by combining
temporary storage time with transportation time.

Production systems:

Another characteristic of the apparel manufacturer in the conceptual framework is

the production system. An apparel production system is an integration of material
handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow
and generates finished products. Apparel manufacturers are adopting several types
of production systems and the product characteristic is highly related to the type of
production system. The best apparel production will depend on the mission and
policies of the manufacturing firm as well as the capacities of the personnel
engaged in the production departments; it also depends on the volume of
production.

Three types of production systems commonly used in mass production apparel are:

Each system requires an appropriate management philosophy, materials handling

methods, floor layout, and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these
systems to meet their specific production needs. Industries may use only one
system, a combination of systems for one product line, or different systems for
different product lines in the same plant.

Progressive Bundle System:

The progressive bundle system (PBS) as the name

implies the bundles of garment parts are moved
sequentially from operation to operation. This system,
often referred to as the traditional production system,
has been widely used by apparel manufacturers for
several decades and still is today. It was reported by the
AAMA Technical Advisory Committee that 80 per cent
of the apparel manufacturers used the bundle system
and also predicted that use of bundle systems would
decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their
production systems.

Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or

garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might
include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached. Some firms operate with a
standard bundle size, while other firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting
orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to
be completed. Bundles are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are
matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets. Bundles of cut parts are
transported to the sewing room and given to the operator scheduled to complete the
operation. One operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces
in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up
and moved to the next operation.
Advantages:

This system may allow better utilisation of specialised machines, as output from
one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators
for the next operation. Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are
bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.

Disadvantages:

It is driven by cost efficiency for individual operations.

As the operators perform the same operation on a
continuing basis, and are compensated by piece rates
become extremely efficient at one operation and may
not be willing to learn a new operation because it
reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individual
operators that work in a progressive bundle system are
independent of other operators and the final product.
Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure
may also cause major bottlenecks within the system.
Large quantities of work in process. This may lead to
longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles, large inventory, extra
handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory.

Unit Production System

A unit production system (UPS) is a type of line layout that uses an overhead
transporter system to move garment components from work station to work station
for assembly. All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the
production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an
overhead conveyor. The overhead rail system consists of the main conveyor and
accumulating rails for each work station. Carriers are moved along the main
conveyor and switched to an accumulating rail at the work station where an
operation is to be performed. At the completion of an operation the operator
presses a button, and the carrier moves on to the next operation. Most unit
production systems are linked to a computer control center that routes and tracks
production and provides up-to-the-minute data for management decisions.

The unit production system transports all the pieces of one complete product
through the manufacturing process. An addressable product carrier takes all the
pieces of one entire unit (ie, for trousers - backs, fronts, pockets, etc) through the
different steps of production. Operations are performed at individual workstations.
The end result is a cost-efficient product, processed from pieces to completion.

Workflow in Unit Production System

 Load all the pieces in a product carrier

 The product carrier with the pieces will be routed through the different
operation steps
 At every machine/operation the patented chain will position the product
ideally
 Completed the product arrives to an unloading station. The empty product
carrier returns to the loading station.

Advantages:

 Improved lead times - less Work In Process.

 Improved space utilisation,
 Increased productivity
 Throughput time in the sewing room can be drastically reduced.
 Direct labor costs are reduced
 Indirect labor costs may be reduced by elimination of bundle handling and
requiring fewer supervisors.
 Improved production and quality monitoring.
 Reduced space utilisation.
 Improved ergonomics.

Disadvantages:

 Highly expensive - buying equipment and Cost of installing

 Specialised training for the system.

Modular Production System

A modular production system is a contained,

manageable work unit that includes an empowered
work team, equipment, and work to be executed. The
number of teams in a plant varies with the size and
needs of the firm and product line. Teams may be used
to perform all the operations or a certain portion of the
assembly operations depending on the organisation of
the module and processes required. Before a firm can
establish a modular production system, it must prioritise its goals and make
decisions that reflect the needs of the firm. With a team-based system operators are
given the responsibility for operating their module to meet goals for throughput
and quality. The team is responsible for maintaining a smooth work flow, meeting
production goals, maintaining a specified quality level, and handling motivational
support for the team. Team members develop an interdependency to improve the
process and accomplish their goals. Interdependency is the relationship among
team members that utilises everyone's strengths for the betterment of the team.

Workflow in Modular Production

A Modular Production System operates as a Pull System, with demand for work
coming from the next operator in line to process the garment. Wastage is normal,
and workflow is continuous and does not wait ahead of each operation. This
increases the potentials for flexibility of styles and quantities of products that can
be produced.

Workflow within a module may be with a Single-piece hand-off, Kanban, or

Bump-back system. If a single-piece hand-off is used, machines are arranged in a
very tight configuration. As soon as an operation is completed the part is handed to
the next operator for processing. Operations need to be well balanced as there is
usually only one garment component between each operation. Some modules may
operate with a buffer or small bundle of up to ten pieces of work between
operators. If a small bundle is used, an operator will complete the operation on the
entire bundle and carry the bundle to the next operation. An operator may follow a
component or bundle for as many operations as they have been trained or until the
adjacent operator is ready to assume work on the bundle.

A Kanban uses a designated work space between operations to balance supply with
demand. The designated space will hold a limited number of completed
components (two or three) in queue for the next operation. If the designated space
is full, there is no need to produce more until it is needed or the space empties.
This limit builds up of product ahead of the next operation. When the space is full
the operator can assist with other operations that may be slow.

The bump-back or TSS (Toyota Sewing System) approach was developed by the
Toyota Sewn Product Management System and is probably the most widely used
type of team-based manufacturing. It is a stand-up module with flexible work
zones and cross-trained operators. Operators may be cross-trained on up to four
different successive operations. This enables operators to shift from operation to
operation until the next operator is ready to begin work on the garment. The
operator needing work steps to the beginning of the zone and takes over the
processing at whatever point it is in the production process. The operator who has
been relieved of the garment will then move back to the beginning of the work
zone and take over work on another garment. This approach enables continuous
work on a garment and allows each operator to perform several different
operations. This arrangement frequently uses a 4-to-l ratio of machines to
operators.

Advantages:

 High flexibility
 Fast throughput times
 Low wastages
 Reduced absenteeism
 Reduced Repetitive Motion Ailments
 Increased employee ownership of the production process
 Empowered employees
 Improved Quality

Disadvantages:

 A high capital investment in equipment.

 High investment in initial training.
 High cost incurred in continued training

Conclusion

The main aim of any production system is to make the total production time as
small as possible. The choice of the production system highly depends on the
volume of production and the strategy of production. Basic goods can be
manufactured in large quantities, with large cuttings, work bundles, and limited
fabric, colour, and trim variation. For basic goods, a traditional production system
such as progressive bundle system can be adopted. The modular system or some
type of flexible manufacturing can be adopted for the production of fashion goods.

Considering the required capital and training for production system changes,
transition from the traditional production system to a flexible manufacturing
system is limited for most apparel manufacturers. Some firms may also use the
combination of the production systems -- the progressive bundle system for
producing small parts combined with modular production for garment assembly.
This reduces the investment in specialised equipment and reduces the team size
needed. Some industry consultants believe that a modular system combined with a
unit production system provides the most flexibility, fastest throughput, and most
consistent quality. This would be particularly useful for large items such as
coveralls or heavy coats. The UPS would move the garment instead of the
operators. Each manufacturer needs to determine what is best for its product line
and production requirements.

3.Distinquish among the system of garments manufacturing used for bulk

production.

Answer to the question No:03

Progressive Bundle System (PBS)

The progressive bundle system is a traditional production system that has been
widely used in the apparel industries for many decades and still is today. In this
system bundles of garments parts are moved in sequence from one sewing machine
operator to the next. Each worker receives a bundle of unfinished garments and
performs a single operation on each garment in the bundle. After finished of
his/her work on a bundle, they are re-tied the bundle and passed on to the next
operator. Each PBS task is given a target time or “SAM” (Standard Allowed
Minutes). Time study engineers calculate the SAM for an entire garment for an
experienced worker as the sum of the number of minutes required for each
operation in the production process, including allowances for worker fatigue, rest
periods, personal time and so on. The success of PBS depends on how the
production system is set up and used in a plant.
In the cutting section cut components of one style and in one size are clubbed and
bundled using ties. Bundle sizes could vary from 2 to 100 pieces according to the
requirement of the production plant. Each bundle contains pieces of the same style
and same size only. A ticket number will be allotted to each bundle which
represents style, size, shade of the garments and number of cut pieces etc.
The bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing section and given to the
operators scheduled to finished the operation. Thus bundles may be handled from
one sewing station to another in various form such as tied bundles, bags, pocketed
bags, bundle trucks, boxes and baskets etc.

Fig: Progressive Bundle System.

Features of progressive bundle System

 Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.

 Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes
it to
the next operator.
 The garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive
sub-assembly and main assembly operations in bundle form.
 There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-
process work between each operation.
 The work is routed by means of tickets.
 The use of the system decrease as firms seeks more flexibility.
 Machines and operations are organized into sections according to basic
functions,
which produce subcomponents.
 Within each section, works are balanced according to the time required for
each sub-function.
 The amount of machinery for each operation is determined by the output
required.
 This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today.
 It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Progressive Bundle System

Advantages
 It allows high productivity.
 A high level of labour utilization can be achieved and helps in reducing time
and cost.
 An uniform high quality of work can be ensured by in-process control.
 Labourers of all levels (unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labours) are involved
in this system where the operations are broken into simple operation. Hence
the cost of labour is very cheap.
 Individual performances can be monitored and incentives offered.
 Due to bundle system, less chance to lot mix-up, size and shade variation of
cut garment pieces.
 Tracking of bundles is possible, so identifying and solving the problems
becomes easy.
 An efficient production control system and quality control system could be
implemented.
 Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and
extensive waiting between operations.
Disadvantages:

 Time-consuming due to assembling, moving, tying and untying of bundles.

 Line balancing becomes difficult most of the time and this problem is
solved by effective production supervisor and IE Engineers.
 Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major
bottlenecks within the system.
 Large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory.
 Inventory cost will be high due to higher WIP in each.
 Proper planning is required for each batch and for each style, which takes
lot of time.
 Variety of styles and less quantity is not effective in this system.

Unit Production System | Overhead Production System | Hanger Production

System:
The unit production system (UPS) for apparel industries is a flexible material
handling system that requires a computerized overhead transportation system to
move the garment components automatically from one workstation to the next
according to a pre-determined sequence. It replaces the traditional garment
production system of handing, bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving
garment parts. It provides uninterrupted workflow to the workers and helps to
improve work efficiency and product quality. In the fast-moving fashion and
apparel industry, this is highly essential.

Fig: Unit Production System (Euratex)

Fig: Unit Production System (INA)

Features of a Unit Production System
 This system concerned with a single garment and not bundles.
 Layout design can be U, L, J, S and E shaped.
 This system is entirely computer controlled.
 It uses an overhead transportation system that automatically routes and
deliver the cut pieces to each sewing station.
  Some Manufacturer applies the ethernet communication mode that can
communicate by point-to-point.
 Even if one station does not work, the whole system still works normally.
 The system can identify whether the atmospheric pressure is normal and
will auto-alarm when the air pressure is below the system requirements.
 It has been ergonomically designed to reduce the amount of handling of the
garment.
 The UPS is expensive (800-2000 USD/Station) to install, but it allows
manufacturers to respond quality to the demand of suppliers.
 This system is capable for rework easily. Because each garment is tracked
within the system and any problems to with quality control can be traced
back automatically to the operator to be corrected.
 This system also records all data in each workstation within the line and
compute them for Management Planning & Control.
 The workstations are constructed as close as possible to the operator. So,
the components are sewn without removing from the hanger in most of the
cases.
 Sewing operators concentrate on sewing without worrying where
workpieces are coming from and should go to.
 The system is highly flexible and can rapidly be modified to changes in the
production line or the need for expansion.
 Up to 40 garment styles can be produced concurrently on this system.
 It is possible to produce multiple designs, colors and sizes at the same time
in the same production line.
 It can be widely used in garment factories, especially for knitted/woven,
trousers/shirts and other clothes.

Operational Principles of Unit Production System

This system is designed based on the following principles

1. An operator set the process in the control station.

2. Worker loads the cut pieces in a hanger from the loading station

3. The hanger routes to the next workstation automatically according to the

predetermined process in the control station.

 4. Product is put together at every stage at each subsequent sewing station

5. Product gets checked at the quality & control station (in line)

6. Product continues to be pieced together at the next subsequent stations

7. Final product gets checked and approved

8. Approved product lands at the unloading station

9. The empty hanger returns to the loading station.

Components of Unit Production System

UPS consists of different types of element, such as

1. Computer with Software

2. Hanger with Microchips

3. Overhead Conveyor with solid and strong structure

4. Easy Push Button

5. LCD Control Panel

6. LED Screen

Computer with Software:

A computer with software is set up in the front of the production line for tracking
production and automatic balancing of workflow. It also provides information like
inventory data, immediate track of style, amount of time operator works, time
spent on the individual unit, operator who works on each unit, piece rate earned for
each unit, employee information, production report, wage report, efficiency report,
QC report, costing and performance data. So, real-time production control can be
done.
Hanger with Microchip
All parts of one garment can get loaded on one single hanger. Each hanger has a
six-finger clip with sawtooth which is used to prevent cutting pieces from falling
off. For smaller cut panels that can’t be gripped by hanger frame like bra,
underwear and hats etc. are placed in Baskets. An RFID/microchip is also placed
on each garment hanger which ensures to monitor each hanger in the process of
production. All parts of one garment can get loaded on one single hanger. When
the system is out of power or other special cases, the racks can’t enter the station
normally. But when the system restarts. They can navigate to the designated routes
again. Workpieces travel on an overhead conveyor, by a hanger which holds then
on a finger like rubber padding.

Overhead Conveyor with accumulating rails

The unit production system consists of the main conveyor and accumulating rails
for each workstation of garments. The overhead conveyor operates much like a
railroad track. Hangers are moved along the main conveyor and switched to an
accumulating rail at the workstation where an operation is to be performed. At the
completion of an operation, the operator presses a button and the carrier move on
to the next operati
Easy Push Button
When one operator finished the operation on one hanger, a push button at the side
of the sewing machine is gently pressed, the suspension system will automatically
transfer the hanger to the main conveyor line.
LCD Control Panel

LCD display at every station controls personal’s log-in, reveals production quantity
and production efficiency. At the same time can distribute the racks automatically
according to the worker efficiency. Therefore, it can promote the worker
motivation and make full use of resources.
LED Screen

The Unit production system is equipped with LED Screen, on which production
target and current production rate are displayed continuously. This is to improve
real-time management and increase corporate image. Below the LED Screen
display that, “Euratex Hanger Systems EMBEE WELCOME YOU! The goal of
634020 is 2800 pieces and has completed 1219 pieces, Completion rate is
43.54%.”
Different Work Station of Unit Production System

Basically, UPS has a workstation up to 35-45. These workstations categorized by

the following way-

1. System Control Station

2. Hanger Storage Station

3. Loading Station

4. Sewing Station

5. Inline Inspection Station

6. Thread Sucking Station

7. Final Inspection Station

8. Unloading Station

System Control Station

UPS has a Computer control center in which a powerful software is installed in a

computer for routing and automatic balancing of workflow which minimizes the
bottlenecks and stoppages. An operator operates the computer according to the
product design. Sitting in this station operator can able to show the problem where
it is occurring and takes necessary steps to solve this. The computerized control
system also provides real-time data related to the which allows the management to
be consistently on top problems.
Normally, upright rails are interconnected to a computerized control system that
routes and tracks production and provides the real-time data related to the
production. The automatic control of the work flow sorts work and balances the
line.
Hanger Storage Station
After removing the finished garments from the hangers in the unloading station,
the hangers are stored in this station for several times. 60-80 hangers can be stored
at this station.
Loading Station
When the hanger comes from the hanger storage station, one operator loads the cut
pieces of the garments from different bundles. When the operator gently presses
the button, the hanger is passed to the next process through the conveyor. The
operator will responsible for shade matching of bundles.

Sewing Station

In this station, there are many types of sewing machine is placed for performing a
different type of job. When possible, operation is performed without removing the
cut panels or sewed parts from the hanger. After completion of the job, the
operator gently press push button and suspension system will automatically
transfer the hanger to the next workstation. In case of adding trims on the
garments, trims are stored on the workstation before but not supplied by hanger as
cut panels.

In-Line Inspection Station

Before assembling the front and back part of the garment, these parts are carefully
checked to find out the problem. If the operator finds any kind of defect, he/she
marks the problem and send to the operator who is responsible for that by typing
the operator ID number on the LCD control panel. When the defective garments
will come to the sewing operator, he/she will repair the defect correctly and send it
to the in-line inspection station by typing QC person’s ID number on the LCD
control panel.

Thread Sucking Station

After sewing and trimming, extra thread will be sucked from the surface of the
garments. Thread sucking could be automatic or manual.

Final Inspection Station

Some necessary information like measurement sheet, trim card, counter sample etc.
are kept on this station for matching the requirement of the buyer. The operator
checks the finished garments to find out the defect and placed stickers on the
defective areas. Then the defective garment will be passed right back to the sewing
operator who is responsible for that.

Unloading Station
After completion of the final inspection, the garment is removed from the hanger
and kept in a carrier which will be sent for the further process.
Advantages of Unit Production System

 No need to replace the sewing machine.

 Bundle handling completely eliminated.
 UPS increase production efficiency 15-30%.
 Decreased work in process (WIP), improved space utilization, and increased
productivity are but a few of the systems benefits.
 Support multi-order, multi-style and small batches production.
 Reduce production cycle.
 Improve the machine utilization, reduce the handling and increase the
moving time of needles.Generate real-time performance report.
 Create a clean and tidy work environment.
 Easy and efficient staff assignment with minimum human resources.
 Improved lead timeless work in process.
 Improved space utilization.
 Better handling of garment without touching the floor.
 No chance of serial and sequence mistakes.
 Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the
work.
 Increase enterprise image.
 Rework can be done easily.
 Labor costs reduced by elimination of bundle handling and employee
attendance improved.
 Less rejection and automatic counting of the finished product.
 Required minimum ironing due to the hanging of garment pieces.

Disadvantages of Unit Production System

 Huge amount of cost, installing a UPS include costs of buying equipment.

 Special training required for the system and for the employees.
 Downtime is a potential problem with any of the systems.
 Proper planning is required to be effective.
 The payback period of the investment takes a long time.
 Variety of styles & less quantity are not effective in this system.
  Shuttle operators and utility operators needed in every batch to balance the
line effectively.
 Proper maintenance of equipment and machinery is needed.

Modular Production System

Modular production system involves a group of 4-17 people who set their own
standards and work together to produce a finished garment. They work as a team or
module and each team member works on more than one operation. In this system,
operators help each other to finish the garment quickly and the team is fully
responsible for the production and quality. The number of teams in a plant varies
with the need of the industry, size of the industry and product line in
garments. This system MPS is the perfect solution for the apparel manufacturer
where quick response is needed. This system is also popular as a Cellular Garment
Manufacturing, flexible workgroups or Toyota Sewing System (TSS).

Features of a Modular Production System

Usually U-shaped layout with more workplaces than operators.

Required multiskilled workers and a small set of machines to produce a finished
garment.
Each operator performs approximately 2-4 operations, depending on the product.
Workflow is sequential.
WIP is less and productivity is high in this production system
The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate in different sewing machines to
complete the operations.
Pull-type production systems, in which the job order arrives from the last step to
previous steps
Time spent per garment is also little; e.g. T-shirt 3 mins, Pull-on pants 6 mins.,
unstructured jacket 25 mins., lined blazer 40 mins., tailored coat 120 mins.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Modular Production System

Advantages

 MPS leads to cost savings.

 The system is highly flexible with style changes and permits better line
balancing.
 Enables fast throughput time, lower WIP, and small batch size can be
achieved.
 Peer pressure encourages a team spirit and discourages absenteeism.
 Productivity of human labour
 Reducing supplies of unfinished production
 Required less floor space
 Improved quality of the product

Disadvantages

 High capital investment is needed in initial training workers to deal with

several tasks at one station.
 This system requires a higher degree of communication and cooperation
among operators, mechanics, and supervisors.
 Operators cannot develop the rhythm and pace of high performance.
 No harmony between team members can cause problems, thus loss in
production.
 Depend on the Team for whole Production.

Applications

 Fashioned garments with quick response.

 Orders with low volume and frequent changes.
 Company with mutual trust between management and operators.
The two main types of assembly line production system followed in the
industries are:

1. Progressive bundle systems (PBS)

2. Unit production system (UPS)
A comparison between these two production systems has been drawn in the
following table on the basis of production KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) to
show how an UPS system (overhead hanging and sensor controlled system) is most
effective over PBS.

Progressive Bundle Unit Production System

Parameters System (PBS) (UPS)
-Manual transportation,
many times helper are hired
for this bundle
transportation job. -In this system an
automated mechanical
-Operators stop their work system carries pieces to
to fetch bundles. each work stations.

-Less effective in terms of -Easier pick up and dispose

production management. at each work station.
Resulted long response Resulted quick response
Transportation time. time
-Compare to UPS, through
put time longer in PBS. -Through put time in UPS is
How much long will less compare to PBS. But it
depend on the bundle size is not the minimum time as
and no. of bundles kept in in this system there is WIP
Through put time between two operators. in between two operators.
-Direct labour content is
- Direct labour content is less than PBS because an
high because usually operator only sews the
operator does tying and garment part rather than
untying of bundles, other tasks. In this system
positioning components, garment parts are held by
pulling the bundle ticket the over head hanger, so
Direct Labour and handling of work less handling of garment
content pieces. components.
 -In PBS generally operators
are asked to sew as much
pieces as they can without
considering back and front
operators. This resulted
piling up of work in the
operations with higher work
WIP level content.
-As a result of High Work
In Process (WIP) is
required by sewing section,
cutting sections are required
to perform 60-70% more
Cutting work than actual production can
requirement handle.
-Due high WIP and higher
cutting, fabrics and trims
Inventory Level need to stock in advance
- Usually in PBS needs
more overtime works,
Excess labour repair work due to some
requirement unfinished operations.
-Less WIP in between
operators. As workstation
has limit of holding no. of
hangers. Also after
completion of operation
hangers are transported to
the next operation
automatically.
-Lower WIP results in less
cutting works. A balanced
flow of material established
in between cutting and
sewing line.
-Less inventory for fabric
and trims.
-Plant with UPS system
needs less overtime as
planning is easy in this
manufacturing system.

4.Criticize the widespread application of progressive bundling system in our

manufacturing industries.
Answer to the question No: 04
Progressive bundle system (PBS)
The progressive bundle system (PBS) gets its name from the bundles of garment
parts that are moved sequentially from operation to operation, This system often
referred to as the traditional production system has been widely used by apparel
manufacturers for several decades and sill in use today. The Technical Advisory
Committee of AA.MA (1993) reports that 80% of apparel manufacturers used
the bundle system. The committee also predicts that use of bundle system would
decrease as firms seek more flexibility in their production systems.
Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or
garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might
include shirtfronts and pockets that are to be attached. Bundle sizes may range
from 2 to 100 parts. Some firms operate with a standard bundle size, while other
firms vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the
pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some firms use a
dozen or multiples of a dozen because their sales are in dozens.
Bundles are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with
corresponding parts and bundle tickets. Bundle tickets consist of a master list of
operations and corresponding coupons for each operation. Each bundle receives
a ticket that identifies the style number, size, shade number, list of operations for
routing, and the piece rate for each operation. Operators retain a corresponding
segment of the bundle coupon for each bundle they complete. At the end of the
workday, bundle coupons are turned in, and the earned time from completed
bundle tickets is totaled to determine the operator's compensation. Firms may
use electronic bundle tickets or smart cards that accompany each bundle and that
are swiped at each workstation along with identification cards. This reduces
paper-work, facilitates access to information, and eliminates lost bundle tickets.
Bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing room and are given to the
operator scheduled to complete the operation. One operator is expected to
per- form the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, to retie the bundle,
to process the coupon, and to set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the
next operation. A progressive bundle system may require a high volume of work
in process because of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of
backup work that is needed to ensure a continuous workflow for all operators
(Figure 2). The firm's materials handling system facilitates bundle movement
between operations [1].

A
 B
Figure 2. Progressive Bundle System.
However, the progressive bundle system may be used with a skill center or line
layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through production.
Each style may have different processing requirements and thus different
routing. Routing identifies the basic operations, sequence of production, and the
work centers where those operations are to be performed, some operations are
common to many styles and at those operations, and work may build up waiting
to be processed.
The progressive bundle system is driven by cost-efficiency for individual
operations. Operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, which
allows them to increase their speed and productivity. Operators who are
compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one operation and may
not be willing to learn a new operation because it reduces their efficiency and
earnings. Individual operators that work in a progressive bundle system are
independent of other operators and the final product.
Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bot-
tlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often charac-
teristic of this type of production system. This may lead to longer throughput
time, poor quality concealed within bundles, large inventory, extra handling, and
difficulty in controlling inventory
The success of a bundle system may depend on how the system is set up and
used in a plant. This system may allow better utilization of specialized machines,
because output from one special-purpose automated machine may be able to
supply several operators for the next operation. Small bundles allow faster
throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between
operations.
Positive sides of progressive bundle system:
• This system may allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output
from one special purpose automated ma-chine may be able to supply several
operators for the next operation.
• Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and
extensive waiting between operations.
• Weakness of progressive bundle system:
• Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major
bottlenecks within the system
• Large quantities of work in process. This may lead to longer throughput time,
poor quality concealed by bundles
• Large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory.

The widespread application of progressive bundling system in our manufacturing

industries because:
 Bangladeshi maximum labor unskilled.
 Maximum none education labor.
 Labor ignorance about technology.
 Labor wage low.
 So many labor use same process.
 Progressive bundling system also called material handling system.
 As name implies the bundle of garment parts move from operation to
operation.
 Traditional production system.
 Comparably this system low cost.
 So capital comparably low.
 Widely used by apparel manufacturing for several decades and still
today.
 Supervisor show sewing line, and better worker use same sewing
machine.
 Bangladeshi 80% apparel industries use progressive bundle system.

These point cause the widespread application of progressive bundling system in

our manufacturing industries.